ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ส.ค. 2017
- E3D All Copper Parts - In Depth Test & Review
E3D asked me to look into their Copper parts and the NEW and Improved Silicon Sock design.
What really does it mean for the maker community by upgrading the parts to copper? and is it worth the extra expense?
Join me on this episode where we test these in a more scientific manner rather than printing out trinkets and toys of Thingverse - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
How convenient. I was using my home made copper block hot end with my tungsten nozzle way back for my QSN videos. ;) he heh. Nice video as always!!!! ~Russ
As a mechanical engineer I really appreciate the more quantitative approach here.
Thanks for this video! Only thing I am questioning is does it affect the maximum volumetric flow of the filament to switch from aluminium to copper?
Glad you're back! Missed My nerdville fix
That nozzle extraction tool looks amazing! How can I get one?
Great video! Can you post a link for the nozzle extraction tool.
Just installed a copper block, was kinda random. Was after end stop switch, and the shipping kinda forced me to throw in a few products. Was kinda curious, and well. Block that was on had shady screws, so why not. Just thrown away 3 hours of my life on changing parts, like idle pulley and replaced cooling mount and shroud because im new to 3d printing and well. Results luckily has mostly gone in a positive way. I'm running new pid calibration and watched the temperature for a moment. Copper vs aluminium, first impression. Copper seems to get things up to temp allot faster. Cant remember i seen it go up to temp so fast. Took a screenshot of pid settings before running pid calibration. So, will be interesting to see what the printer/marlin thinks and what of if settings will change. Anyways, kinda surprised how fast the temp went up. That being said, machine has been able to run stable temps when i been observing. Ignoring a couple very odd glitches i guess was software related. Running marlin 2.0.6 R10, and have experienced a couple odd things. And atm, im stuck with it because i havent been able to update to newer ver. Im doing something wrong, have no idea what...
yess this is the level of detail i have been hunting for thanks and subbbbbed
My thinking here, is that even if you don't go with a copper block, a copper nozzle could build be very favorable. IMO where it is most critical to have the most thermal mass, is in the nozzle, because that's what's melting and extruding the filament. Once up to temp, I believe a copper nozzle would be able to smooth out _some_ of the smaller temperature fluctuations of a lesser thermally dense heater block. As long as there's good contact of course. If the block has cooled a small bit, there's a good chance the nozzle is still a little bit hotter (unless running on the edge of how much filament it can handle), and by the time the cartridge has heated the block and that increased heat reaches the nozzle, the nozzle temperature will likely have dropped significantly less in temperature than a brass or steel one would. It will take longer to increase the temperature of the nozzle again, but the delta to temp target will be smaller. IMO the goal here, except staying within the capacity of your print head of course, is thermal *consistency.* Every setup has its own variables, so we have to tune our setups regardless. But knowing that the temperature you end up with, will fluctuate much less, is great. I for one, can tune down my temps a little when printing somewhat fast, as I usually overshoot a little to be on the safe side when nozzle temp fluctuates. And i know a lot of other people do this too.
But surely you need to run the PID tuning before every component change, not just once at the beginning?
To get full benefit of the copper yeah.. Heck even major temp changes. I know I'm about 3 years late to the party here.
7:08 well, not for me , if it is complicated it is more detailed and in deep, so I just subscribed ;-)
What about copper heat block with harden steel nozzle? E3d just released their special edition gold hot end with copper block and harden steel nozzle. Great video mate! Love the science
Would be interesting to see what the performance would be if they made the block out of Silver - Copper alloy.
Or pure silver even..
So these parts help with temperature stability. What is the impact of conductivity and heat capacity on the heating of the plastic? I know the conductivity of the plastic is super low which I expect means it won't improve heat up of plastic by going this route.
Very good explanation. You made it understandable for a wider audience.
Now let's hope they didn't click away to Angus and Joel :-)
Awesome video, thank you :-)
wish you tested the stickyness too
copper? Intresting choice from E3d. But then again, it looks like it could work like a champ in the right setup :)
Your in oxford? Nice, I used to live down near there (Huntington). :)
How is your powerwall project and batteries charger project doiny!? 👍😁🙄
what about flow rate ?
Very interesting and the cost of the raw material has always been the reason we had not seen this before en masse.
Copper has a reputation for being harder to machine too. I don't think either are really show-stoppers. Copper really isn't necessary for most people though. E3D's stated reasoning for offering it now is for higher temperature printing. I'd be pretty happy if the aluminum blocks were offered with the plating.
Same for me and I was reading about laser cutting and PC is a no no and will kill you so why is it we melt it as a filament now in our 3d printers? PVC is another no no. A lot of the stuff that needs higher print temps also will kill people so hmmmm.
E3d has been great to work with.
Hi, you have not talk about pidtune, in fact you need to perform it before any test to be sure to have the right setting ofr the wanted temp. and fan condition. Just forgot it or....
What is that little hand held tool you used to put the nozzle on?
That was a 3D printed custom made nozzle changing tool I made. Do you want it for printing? I can upload to thingiverse if you like.
Yes please, it was a thing of beauty.
here it is: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2947613
I was hoping Synthetic Diamonds could be used instead of copper, or Boron Arsenide. Unfortunately the former seems to have poor thermal conductivity w/o purifying, and the latter is very toxic.
Edit: Nickel Coated? Why not hardened steel? I've also read of ruby nozzles, but they're $$$$.
8:45 Why not make the copper portion, put the temperature probe closer to the nozzle, and use a insulator to prevent the sock from absorbing so much heat?
Edit 2: Please review the e3d titanium heat break :D
uhm... I want to make a correction to the "science bit" at 3:51 you said 55% more then aluminum, when in fact it is 79% higher - what you may have meant is aluminum is 55% less conductive, which is very different as we see in the numbers above.
I dont assume you purely misspoke, as your numbers on the slides are incoherent and what you say and write does not match up at all, sadly neither the written nor the spoken is correct, a cherry picked mixture of the two would be. Something cannot be 350%less conductive, unless if reflects heat magically it is actually 72% less conductive :)
This is a very very common mistake and i thought i should point it out, i hope i made sense :P
The video otherwise is great as always :D
Just to nerd out a bit, it’s 1 K not 1 degree K
That 55% more heat figure is wrong, its actually 79% 385/215 = 1.79... Probably calculated 215/385 which is 0.55.
I'll wait for the aftermarket e3d clones out of Copper...lol
It has been a while since your last video. I was starting to get worried about my fix of nerd. Hmm, copper, I might give it a go.
cool now all I need to do is get a 3d printer