How to wire the ignition on a Classic or old car with contact breaker,points and coil
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- How to wire up the ignition on older cars with points and coil. So I've done a video to show anyone else.
NEW BETTER VERSION. • How to wire ignition ...
You made it simple so people could really understand. Your examples were clear and to the point for me.Thank you!
absolutely superb .i have just spent 5 years rebuilding a 1936 morris 8 and at 77 i wish i had seen this before. incredibly well shown
tony (chippy)
Thank you Tony. Pleased it helped.
Sorry for dumb question, but does the positive wire from coil connect to acc or ign on the ignition switch?
What a legend, best entertainment I have had in a long time. All education video's should be like this. Keep up the good work
Thank you John.
THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO DO THIS-HELPED ME UNDERSTAND MY OLD TIGER 500
bonehill zephyr You're very welcome. And thanks for commenting, makes it all worthwhile.
Thank you very much for this video. It was very very helpful. I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this. I am learning about all this trying to figure out why my classic car wont start.
Thank you John, I hope it helps. Just by coincidence I did a video of my friends MGB last week. When he bought it a few years ago he bought new coil, points, condenser, cap, leads and plugs. Relatively inexpensive today, and solves most starting problems with this type of ignition. Only problem is the new condenser didn't last long, which causes very rough running, if it runs at all. So he refitted the old one. As you can hear in the video it runs great now.
I think that might be my problem. When the trouble started, after the car warmed up it would die as you drive down the road. I knew it was getting gas, so I figured it was a coil problem. I at first bought a higher output coil and the car would not start. I found they gave me a coil that was wrong for my car. I got the right one and it still wont start. I could smell something like it was burning but could not find anything. I touched everything nothing was hot. i poured a little gas in the carburetor and it tires to start but wont. It fired for about 3 secs then nothing. I think it might be the condenser like you just said. I have never worked on a car like this. It is frustrating and greasy and dirty and difficult, but I am loving it and having a lot of fun no matter how much it makes me cuss. I really do enjoy you videos. Just curious, where are you from with your accent. I live in Tallahassee Florida USA
I live in Lincoln England John. Some older cars have what they call a ballast resistor coil to aid starting. This is in effect a 6v coil on a 12v car. It is wired direct when cranking, but then wired through the ballast resistor when running, so it has 2 feeds from the ignition switch. When I work on something for the first time, I try to find someone who has, just to come and have a look. Can save you hours of grief and head scratching lol.
I have a 53 Ford station wagon I can't get it started because of wiring? Will this video help
Does the coil ever go bad? And what would be the symptom(s) of a failing coil? (Or condenser?)
What it it's a positive ground? Does the live of the coil go to the points and the SW go to a capacitor and to the negetive side of the battery?
Simple, if you know what you're doing! Thanks for the video, it's very helpful.
Thank you. Pity I hadn't done this more recently with a better camera, however I think? it's clear enough to understand.
I've now done a recent version, hopefully clearer with better camera work.
I have a white and black wire that are going to the ignition coil, would I use the black as negative and the white as positive?
Your the best , love your English accent
Keep it up Bro
this is an amazing tutorial. thanks. keep looking forward to anything you put up.
Many thanks, pleased you found it helpful. You may? like to look at 'the engine project' a series I did a few years ago. There is a playlist. You might want to skip through a few of the earlier ones, but not too fast otherwise you might miss something.
MalcOfLincoln I most definitely will! 👍
I have an electronic ignition on mine how does it differ
I sometimes have trouble with old motorbikes with flywheel magneto system, I suppose I could put an external coil on with a battery.
Where does the black condenser wire go
Thanks man I've got a 1949 Chevy car and I've been watches days of video but I found ur and can understand it thanks again
Pleased it helped. I've recently redone it, link in the description if you haven't seen it. A better, shorter video.
Very helpful video - thanks!
Thanks Steve. Pleased it helped.
Good job buddy thanks
Thank you!!! You are a Hero!!
Not quite lol, but very pleased it has helped :)
thanks for this super video and your time, iv'e had a replacement condensér shot after only 100 miles, the previous lasted 20 years. JAG MK2 pos earth
Thank you. I've recently done an updated version. Apparently new condensers can fail very early. I've a friend with an MGB. All new ignition components, but the condenser failed the next day. Swapped for the old one and perfect every since.
@@MalcOfLincoln this is so helpful that i will have a go at checking my Powersperk Transistor Ignition Kit. I have a feeling that it was shot in the shop while trying to fit it to my Jag MK2. after fail we reverted to points.
@@Kieran46100 Very pleased it helped. I have heard of aftermarket ignition systems failing.
Are there different condensers im wanting to do this on an Atv cause the coil went out so I'm wanting to switch to a batter ignition what do I need to do it has the pulsar or breaker and cdi so how would I hook it up do I need a condenser and if so what kind if there are different ones
Thanks very much. That is very interesting.
Have you seen the new, better version that I've done this week. Link is in the description.
today I installed the following on my 1969 corvette 427
msd distributor 8572
msd module 6AL
I turn the car on, everything is great but there are sparks on the coil. at the top. ( the coil is a brand new stock ) i just ordered the msd blaster 2 coil.. hopefully that will eliminate my problem. any opinions or tips ?
Can't really think of anything. Possibly faulty insulation at the top of the coil. Many years ago I was caught out by a new suppressor I fitted to the HT lead from the coil. Car was running badly, but trusted this as it was new.
Hi thanks for the video. Can you explain positive earth please, do I just swap the wires on the coil??
And how do I know if I need a ballast resister coil or not??
Thanks
I'll try and help. As it says, positive earth is when the positive goes to ground on the vehicle, not the negative. If the vehicle has a dynamo, not an alternator it's easy. Just flash the live wire to the field to polarize the dynamo. If the coil needs a resistor it will normally have 3 wires going to it. But best to check if it had one when new.
Thanks for the reply. I really need help. The car doesn’t have one from factory. It’s a 1963 Ford Anglia with a dynamo/ generator, positive earth. and it has cooked 3 coils in 50 kms and a condenser. I can’t work out why it keeps failing coils.
I’m using a standard 12 volt coil
@@mrxkyle22x Oh, this needs to be hands on. 12v coils on a 12 volt system should be ok. Is it getting hot after a few minutes running. Modern condensers can be a problem. I've a friend with an MGB (see video). Bought everything new but the condenser failed, fitted the old one and it runs fine. Only other thing I can think of. Check the regulator voltage at the battery. If? this is too high it might? be the cause of the coil failing. Should be around 13.8 to 14.2 volts. One of the best places for advice are car shows.....season's just starting.
Ok thanks I’ll check the battery voltage.
I’m out of ideas. I did think it could be something to do with the regulator but I have no understanding of it or how it works.
Other thing I was thinking was maybe could be a bad earth, was thinking of putting a second earth from the block to the body of the car. Could an earth cause the coil to fail?
@@mrxkyle22x I had to put a new (well SH) regulator on my Nuffield. Got the dynamo working, but regulator didn't. Try to search for a few videos. I had to do a 'refresher' course lol. Basically one coil connects the circuit when it starts charging, and the other rapidly connects/disconnects to keep the charge rate. Mine charged full and burnt out.
Thank you sir for your.video it helped me.
Thank you for the know how,going to apply it to my go kart!!.
+David Thompson Happy to help. Sometimes comes in very useful on old or simple engines.
thank you, i try to make one, great video.
Thanks - hope it helps :)
Have you got video on how to see if your coil is good or bad using a meter please ?
No Mark, but what you need to do to check is fairly easy. The two terminals should have full circuit, but no circuit to earth. The plug lead should have circuit to earth but not to either of the terminals. Best way though is just to try another coil.....that's what we always did.
Thanks for your quick reply .
Did you mention that the case of the condenser needs to be grounded. Also does the coil have an internal resistor…if not then an inline ballast resistor will be needed.
to prevent component burnout.
Nice demo…. maybe a little less camera shaking and traveling…take some time to master camera position as it appears you have interesting info to share. Thank you. walt
berkmanyt Many thanks. All my camera work is shaky lol. The condenser is grounded as it is mounted in the distributor. 12 volt coils don't have a resistor. Some 60, and 70s cars had 6 volt coil and used a 'ballast resistor'. This was to aid starting, as the battery voltage drops when cranking. There are 2 live circuits from the ignition switch, When cranking the live goes directly to the coil. The other live goes through the ballast resistor for normal running. As you correctly say, cars with this system would burn the coil out if a resistor was not fitted. Hope this helps......Malc.
Brilliant video thank you!
No thank you. Pleased you liked it and hope it helped :)
We have Humber Super Snipe there is good spark to points and plugs but still will not start. The mark that is put on TDC seems to be set to cylinder 6 rather than cylinder 1. Not sure if it is petrol issue or timing. But petrol must be getting in as it backfires. Got any tips? Things we could try.
So difficult when not hands on. What I would do is take No1 plug out, make sure the rotor arm is pointing to No1. Find tdc compression stroke on No1. Turn the engine back a few degrees (the mark might? help) take all the plugs out, put a little petrol in each cylinder, refit the plugs etc then try it. Has the timing chain jumped a tooth. You can check this by seeing if the valves are rocking when No1 (or any other) cylinder is at tdc. It is possible to be a tooth out checking this way, but should give you some idea if the camshaft timing is somewhere near.
One other thing.....is everything in the distributor in good order? Rotor arm, cap, points, coil, condenser plug leads etc.
Thank you I will share this information with my brother when he comes back from work. I have new timing chain to fit if need be. Our Humber Super Snipe is series V (1965) model. So it is pretty old car.
bloody legend .. good man
Many thanks.....appreciated. Hope it helped.
We just did something like this for the 4cyl briggs!
Exactly. You're lucky to have your Dad, Everett and Mike etc to teach you how to do 'stuff'. I've been around engines etc all my life, but was very lucky to have a very clever man in our little village, who I spent my spare time with when I was around your age. He taught me to be competent at most things :D
What about ballast resistors? When do they come into the mix?
Ballast resistors were fitted to some Fords and Vauxhalls (most likely others) as a starting aid. A 6 volt coil was fitted to a 12 volt system. The resistor dropped to voltage for normal running. For starting this was bypassed so there was a spark at low battery voltage.
MalcOfLincoln
Cool. Yeah my 74 Dodge Dart has one in it. I'm actually replacing the whole ignition system because its all old and shot. Coil doesn't work, starter relay blew out and with the distributor I'll have to rebuild it: rotar, points and condenser. So I was also wondering which wires would have needed to plug into the resistor? The positive wire from the coil I'd assume but what else? Anything from the distributor or starter or Ignition switch? Reason I ask is, I got a bit ahead of myself when tearing it all out and now cant remember what hooked up to what. Which is why your video was actually more helpful than a lot of other videos I've watched.
Thanks for that, I do try (grin). There should be 2 live wires from the ignition switch. One will be live with the ignition on. This goes to the ballast resistor, then from the resistor to the coil. The other will be live with the key turned to start. This one goes directly to the coil. Hope that helps. A wiring diagram for the car would be helpful if you can find one.
Many years ago someone with a HA Viva broke down. The car started, but then stopped. Took a while to find, but the wire from the resistor to the coil had come off. So the car ran until you stopped holding the key to start it, and the ignition switch was in the 'on' position.
Some 60s cars over here can be converted to an electronic distributor. These work better so unless you want to keep it original, this might be an option. Something to investigate I should think.
MalcOfLincoln Hi Malc you answered the question to my problem. I realize I have a bad coil. Thank you...
That's great....really chuffed. So pleased to have helped.
Nicely done
really helpful, thanks :-)
Pleased it helped.
This is Eric again. After rechecking my facts I am sorry I was wrong I repeated what I was told and believed without checking enough facts please accept my apology.
No problem Eric. We all have to learn, and that is mainly by making mistakes. I have often told people what I believed to be true, only to find out what I've been told is wrong.
Points should run on 6 volts and have a wire that gives 12 volts only when cranking your points will burn our quickly running on 12 volts all the time
Sorry, but I really think you've got confused with leaving the ignition on. Points are only a switch, which work on 6 volts on a 6 volt car, and 12 volts on a 12 volt car.
If you leave the ignition on without the engine running, if the points are closed, it can burn the coil out. Either 6 or 12 volt.
Sounds good your camera is just way to close.. Back up show the whole thing... To much movement
Yes it is. As you can see this was years ago. Got a much better camera now, would do a much better job. BUT the info is correct.....and that's what counts eh!
Thank you, sir.
Thank you, hope it was helpful.
CAN ANYONE HELP I have a Rover v8 engine I have hooked up a ignition coil the same like the video and it isn't working but it gets very hot ???
James Kray i have the same problem on my triumph spitfire, if you got new contact point there could be some protective layer, that could be the reason why you dont get sparks
Sjoerd Hermsen thanks I've been having a bad time with it , their is no wires anywer for the ignition coil so I tried to make this
You need a resistor
Ballast resistor????? You forgot.
No. If you have a 12 volt coil you don't use one.
THANK YOU!!
You're welcome
Getting dizzy
OMG. I'm dizzy. :P
Thanks - I very informative.
See the new one I've done recently. Much clearer and better camera. Link's in the description.