I watched several great videos about the theme, and even they spoke in English, and I know some English, I hardly understood what they were saying. That because, those gentlemen went deep in the science behind this project, and I am illiterate in those areas. Here, I met a man like myself, describing the method in plain, everyday language, and takes us through the process. Very useful video, thanks.
I just found your channel and I’m in love. Don’t listen to the rude haters, your videos are amazingly high-quality and very atmospheric. Thank you very much for your work!
Cheers for the video on pinhole photography for digital cameras. Just for future reference and anyone else wanting to do this. Make sure you use a wood or metal drill bit, it will bite and drill more accurately. The one that Zenography host uses is a masonry drill bit, which is why it slips and takes so long to go thought some flimsy plastic.
If you use tape instead of adhesive then you can switch out the aperture, which lets you experiment with different materials (thinner, thicker, different shaped holes, more than one hole etc.)
"Its not quite as square as we thought it might be..." that gem went down really well when they were building Keops with a pair of old Ikea kitchen scissors.
Thank you, I loved this episode and especially that you explain how to make this lens. It was great to see the photographs you made and loved hearing your explanation of using a ND filter. I am guessing that aluminium tin from a throw away pie plate would probably work too and maybe less dangerous to cut out and put a hole into.
The jam jar - draw a square on the lid. Centre a hole point. Drill out the hole. Use some tin snips to cut through, possibly. Or, drill out with micro holes along pre-drawn lines. Or use a dremmel equivalent.
Hello! Thanks so much for your tutorial. I was just wondering how to created the ghostly images of the people? How long did they sit for? Did they come into frame later? Experiencing with this and a group of young people next week - thank you!
Exposures at lower iso settings can be very long when using a pinhole lens - you'll need to experiment to get the ghosting effect but generally the longer, the better. Stand one person still in a busy place and the effects can be interesting!
Foil is the preferred medium for the pin hole. Given a sufficiently circular hole, which requires specialist machinery or a lot of trial and error, pin hole photography can be relatively sharp. I made them years ago with photographic paper, which is extremely slow, to make direct positive prints. It took hours per exposure and had excessive contrast, but was succesful. The best I've every seen used ultra large format transparencies and a camera tent.
Can someone please explain why you can't just make a tiny hole in the cap without putting that extra piece of metal with a hole in the cap? I have watched a lot of similar clips and DIYs but never got the explanation of the second piece with a whole in it.
If you put a tiny hole in a piece of plastic 1mm thick, you are creating a tube. If you look through a tube, your angle of view is very limited. If you put your eye close to a hole in a sheet of paper, your angle of view will be much wider than looking through a tube. Get it?
I have tried with my DSLR but all attempts were failures. Quessing my camera is not suitable for that, and here's why. I have modified it so the sensor is seeing full light spectrum, to achieve that I have removed UV/IR cutting element. Any distance and any size of hole won't get my in focus.
Для пинхола есть правило - чем больше площадь носителя, тем лучше смотрится фото сделанное пинхолом. Для плёнки желателен хотя бы средний формат... (6х6см). Поэтому снимать пинхолом на цифре имеет смысл только на Фулфрейме, кроп не желателен. А вот для монокля площадь носителя не так критична. И для отверстия пинхола лучше взять более тонкий металл - фольгу - чем тоньше тем лучше ...
Я уверен, что вы правы - это была краткая проверка принципа, первая попытка. Спасибо за просмотр. I'm sure you're right - this was a brief test of the principle really, a first try. Thanks for watching.
This was awesome. I am getting more and more excited about pinhome photography. But to be honest, the last few photographs you showed seem too good to be taken by a pinhole lense!
@@zenography7923 I ***THINK*** the focal length would be the distance between the film plane (or sensor) and the cap. After all, the pinhole is the aperture. I'll test my theory by comparing the image with images taken with an actual lens at various focal lengths.
Confirmed - with my test setup, the sensor plane (marked on top of the body) is aprx. 2 inches (aprx. 50mm) behind the cap. Attaching a 24-120mm lens without moving the body and taking test shots at successive focal lengths, the image are is closest to 50mm. So it depends on where the cap sits relative to the sensor or film plane. You can buy these pre-made with a laser-cut hole sealed with glass, for just a couple dollars more than a regular body cap. As mentioned below, the F-value would be that focal length divided by the pinhole diameter. Mine is 0.3mm, so F170 as said. Unfortunately, the non-CPU lens data entry on a Nikon DSLR doesn't allow you to specify such an F-number ;) .
Love your lens and camera videos!....But, you were obviously never meant to be allowed anywhere near lens disassembly or modifications!...And especially not power tools and or scissors!!............. Do not ever forget!..................Fingers are essential for pressing down shutter buttons!!....And you just about lost a few during this debacle!!!
Actually "the smaller the pinhole size the better" is not correct. With too small sizes you have diffraction kicking in, further ruining resolution. 0.2 to 0.3 mm diameter should be the target, as clarified in the wikipedia article "Pinhole camera". Also: the hole should be round, or at least with clean edges, and the material in which the hole is made should be thin, where thin means much thinner than what the pinhole width is, otherwise you get much more vignetting. 0.3mm diameter on 5cm=50mm pinhole-to-film (to sensor) distance gives an f-number of 50/0.3=170 quite far from the "millions" estimated in the video. Sorry, but I do not find this video on par with the other nice ones concerning lenses. Too much subjective meandering on simple physical facts.
Why don’t you explain how you think it should be done, then I’ll know if I’m talking to somebody who has a clue or someone on the level of Diy as Zenographer who is very good at the photography aspects and lenses area. But I state again and refer you to my comments, is not or should not be demonstrating how to action the operation. Just the principles would be sufficient.
Difficult to show principles without actually carrying them out! I agree this wasn't the best pinhole lens in the world; I did it more out of curiosity than anything else!
Wrong drill bit, a wood bit of the correct gauge, suggest 8mm secured on a piece of scrap timber before drilling, centre the bit and drill whole. Cut tin with tin snips or aviator snips and to slightly less diameter than the drilled cap. Drill small whole using same method, or punch with panel pin using a pin hammer or hammer. Clean surface till taking off any rough edges then glue with contact glue or appropriate glue for tin to metal. Use cotton bud not fingers and replace lid so as not to spill contact adhesive all over the place!!!
I like the consent and evolving the theory, but your not a Diy person are you? Heath Robinson’s ideas where in the main just over engineered but incredible eccentric solutions. I’d stick to the photography and lenses.
If one doesn’t comment on the downside of vlogs, then they don’t get better or remove issues. Zenographer was on the verge of harming himself and giving the wrong information for tools to use. Even used open scissors and the handle of as a hammer. Several issues where done incorrectly that could be very dangerous. So hence the comment on the implementation of the job.
Duuuuuude. Keep 'em shorter. This should be u 3-5 minutes video. I like your content but I don't want to spend 20 minutes of my life on every video you make
I watched several great videos about the theme, and even they spoke in English, and I know some English, I hardly understood what they were saying. That because, those gentlemen went deep in the science behind this project, and I am illiterate in those areas. Here, I met a man like myself, describing the method in plain, everyday language, and takes us through the process. Very useful video, thanks.
I just found your channel and I’m in love. Don’t listen to the rude haters, your videos are amazingly high-quality and very atmospheric. Thank you very much for your work!
Many thanks Valentina, very glad you're enjoying the channel!
Cheers for the video on pinhole photography for digital cameras. Just for future reference and anyone else wanting to do this. Make sure you use a wood or metal drill bit, it will bite and drill more accurately. The one that Zenography host uses is a masonry drill bit, which is why it slips and takes so long to go thought some flimsy plastic.
Zenography meets Blue Peter. Another excellent broadcast!
I've made pinholes by dimpling the metal, the filing the raised bump with a jeweler's file.
A free lens is all i wanted, now I just need a camera body to start shooting
If you use tape instead of adhesive then you can switch out the aperture, which lets you experiment with different materials (thinner, thicker, different shaped holes, more than one hole etc.)
Ok p Diddy 😂
@@unbroken1010 ?????????
Another very interesting video. I always look forward to your new uploads :-)
Well done. Very nice episode.
Thanks Leendert, glad you enjoyed it - although I don't think mine is the best pinhole lens in the world!
What a delightful gem of a video , kudos 👏 🙌
Thank you so much 😀
Love it :) I have just made my first and I will try to merge the next one with a micro:bit :)
"Its not quite as square as we thought it might be..." that gem went down really well when they were building Keops with a pair of old Ikea kitchen scissors.
:)
Also goes well with our current administration.
Thank you, I loved this episode and especially that you explain how to make this lens. It was great to see the photographs you made and loved hearing your explanation of using a ND filter. I am guessing that aluminium tin from a throw away pie plate would probably work too and maybe less dangerous to cut out and put a hole into.
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it! And yes, thin aluminium would be a much better material!
Nice vlog what happens if you make two holes about two centimetres apart
The jam jar - draw a square on the lid. Centre a hole point. Drill out the hole. Use some tin snips to cut through, possibly. Or, drill out with micro holes along pre-drawn lines. Or use a dremmel equivalent.
I prefer to use thin copper, aluminum, or stainless-steel foil instead of the thick metal from the jam jar lid you are using.
You could be a story teller in a crime or thriller by audible. Stunning voice
I'd be happy to, if they asked me!
i am amazed by photos you created, almost as i am by you still having fingers
Fingers still intact! I'm amazed that a simple pinhole can actually focus light!
Hello! Thanks so much for your tutorial. I was just wondering how to created the ghostly images of the people? How long did they sit for? Did they come into frame later? Experiencing with this and a group of young people next week - thank you!
Exposures at lower iso settings can be very long when using a pinhole lens - you'll need to experiment to get the ghosting effect but generally the longer, the better. Stand one person still in a busy place and the effects can be interesting!
@@zenography7923 Oh yes great idea! Thank you so much. forgetting back to me so quickly! Ill give it a go.
Great video! Really enjoy your content.
Would you use m42 on mft too?
What if I made a pinhole shoebox and just put the camera inside? Set the self timer or remote. Different field of view.
Can one simply drill a pin hole in the body cap rather than add a metal piece? Thx
No...the orifice needs to be VERY thin.
Foil is the preferred medium for the pin hole. Given a sufficiently circular hole, which requires specialist machinery or a lot of trial and error, pin hole photography can be relatively sharp. I made them years ago with photographic paper, which is extremely slow, to make direct positive prints. It took hours per exposure and had excessive contrast, but was succesful. The best I've every seen used ultra large format transparencies and a camera tent.
Useful and entertaining... and no presenter was hurt during the making of this video... In fact a hole in one
Me Lord...ha ha...
It wasn't far off two holes in one! Thanks for looking in Phil!
Interesting Video, I have not got the patience to make my own, but you can buy them ready made on Ebay for less then ten pounds
Can someone please explain why you can't just make a tiny hole in the cap without putting that extra piece of metal with a hole in the cap? I have watched a lot of similar clips and DIYs but never got the explanation of the second piece with a whole in it.
The thinner material is easier to push a pin into making a cleaner aperture that protects a better image and projects a wider field of view
If you put a tiny hole in a piece of plastic 1mm thick, you are creating a tube.
If you look through a tube, your angle of view is very limited.
If you put your eye close to a hole in a sheet of paper, your angle of view will be much wider than looking through a tube.
Get it?
I have tried with my DSLR but all attempts were failures. Quessing my camera is not suitable for that, and here's why. I have modified it so the sensor is seeing full light spectrum, to achieve that I have removed UV/IR cutting element. Any distance and any size of hole won't get my in focus.
Interesting
Thanks
Lo he hecho para una Sony a6500 y la imagen nunca está enfocada. ¿No funciona para APS-C?
Debería funcionar bien en cualquier cámara ...
That was brilliant 🥃🥃🥃
Thank you!
Для пинхола есть правило -
чем больше площадь носителя, тем
лучше смотрится фото сделанное пинхолом.
Для плёнки желателен хотя бы средний формат... (6х6см).
Поэтому снимать пинхолом на цифре имеет смысл только на Фулфрейме, кроп не желателен.
А вот для монокля площадь носителя не так критична.
И для отверстия пинхола лучше взять более тонкий металл - фольгу - чем тоньше тем лучше ...
Я уверен, что вы правы - это была краткая проверка принципа, первая попытка. Спасибо за просмотр.
I'm sure you're right - this was a brief test of the principle really, a first try. Thanks for watching.
"But it's certainly a piece of metal" xDD
This was awesome. I am getting more and more excited about pinhome photography. But to be honest, the last few photographs you showed seem too good to be taken by a pinhole lense!
All genuine pinhole shots I assure you! Glad you enjoyed the video.
whats the focal length
Not sure; it's pretty wide though, probably around 20mm or less...
@@zenography7923 I ***THINK*** the focal length would be the distance between the film plane (or sensor) and the cap. After all, the pinhole is the aperture. I'll test my theory by comparing the image with images taken with an actual lens at various focal lengths.
Confirmed - with my test setup, the sensor plane (marked on top of the body) is aprx. 2 inches (aprx. 50mm) behind the cap. Attaching a 24-120mm lens without moving the body and taking test shots at successive focal lengths, the image are is closest to 50mm. So it depends on where the cap sits relative to the sensor or film plane.
You can buy these pre-made with a laser-cut hole sealed with glass, for just a couple dollars more than a regular body cap. As mentioned below, the F-value would be that focal length divided by the pinhole diameter. Mine is 0.3mm, so F170 as said. Unfortunately, the non-CPU lens data entry on a Nikon DSLR doesn't allow you to specify such an F-number ;) .
You could have cut up a pop can to get a square of metal for the pin hole.
I probably should have!
Great video! Maybe use a wire cutter next time? I was getting nervous.
I would certainly do it differently next time!
Today I learned that pinhole literally means hole from a pin, I did not even think about this name before
Definitely be careful with the sensor
A pinhole has an aperture value of about f/200
Thanks!
Love your lens and camera videos!....But, you were obviously never meant to be allowed anywhere near lens disassembly or modifications!...And especially not power tools and or scissors!!............. Do not ever forget!..................Fingers are essential for pressing down shutter buttons!!....And you just about lost a few during this debacle!!!
Fortunately they remained intact! Glad you're enjoying the videos!
Actually "the smaller the pinhole size the better" is not correct. With too small sizes you have diffraction kicking in, further ruining resolution. 0.2 to 0.3 mm diameter should be the target, as clarified in the wikipedia article "Pinhole camera". Also: the hole should be round, or at least with clean edges, and the material in which the hole is made should be thin, where thin means much thinner than what the pinhole width is, otherwise you get much more vignetting. 0.3mm diameter on 5cm=50mm pinhole-to-film (to sensor) distance gives an f-number of 50/0.3=170 quite far from the "millions" estimated in the video. Sorry, but I do not find this video on par with the other nice ones concerning lenses. Too much subjective meandering on simple physical facts.
This was not the finest pinhole lens in the world - no doubt about it!
Why don’t you explain how you think it should be done, then I’ll know if I’m talking to somebody who has a clue or someone on the level of Diy as Zenographer who is very good at the photography aspects and lenses area. But I state again and refer you to my comments, is not or should not be demonstrating how to action the operation. Just the principles would be sufficient.
Difficult to show principles without actually carrying them out! I agree this wasn't the best pinhole lens in the world; I did it more out of curiosity than anything else!
Wrong drill bit, a wood bit of the correct gauge, suggest 8mm secured on a piece of scrap timber before drilling, centre the bit and drill whole.
Cut tin with tin snips or aviator snips and to slightly less diameter than the drilled cap. Drill small whole using same method, or punch with panel pin using a pin hammer or hammer. Clean surface till taking off any rough edges then glue with contact glue or appropriate glue for tin to metal. Use cotton bud not fingers and replace lid so as not to spill contact adhesive all over the place!!!
Your spelling is not correct, hole is spelt h-o-l-e. Pay attention to this please.
@@GSchmitable how about you shut your pie whole
@@jimjames4875 pinhole :)
I like the consent and evolving the theory, but your not a Diy person are you? Heath Robinson’s ideas where in the main just over engineered but incredible eccentric solutions. I’d stick to the photography and lenses.
f1remandg stop being a downer man, this was a great video and really helpful.
If one doesn’t comment on the downside of vlogs, then they don’t get better or remove issues.
Zenographer was on the verge of harming himself and giving the wrong information for tools to use. Even used open scissors and the handle of as a hammer.
Several issues where done incorrectly that could be very dangerous.
So hence the comment on the implementation of the job.
f1remandg nit picky man. Let’s see your video on doing this.
Duuuuuude. Keep 'em shorter. This should be u 3-5 minutes video. I like your content but I don't want to spend 20 minutes of my life on every video you make
I know what you mean, but fast and slick just ain't the style of the channel I'm afraid!