One Question, why did you choose to cut around the basted/ pinned facing as opposed to a pre-cut neck line? Did this get you better results? Is this because it is a tunic style garment?
Great question! When, in the past, I have cut a hole for my head and draped the pattern the wool the weight of the body panels cause the neckline to stretch out. After having this a couple of times and having some success repairing them with sort of drawstring basting thread, I resolved to always face or at least stitch to reinforce the neckline before ever draping the body. Next, I am inconsistent with applying the facing to the wool. Tried freehanding it, pinning, basting, measuring whatever but when I cut, fold and apply the facing I tend to wind up putting too much facing on not enough neckline in places causing a slight gathered pucker and the opposite causing a stretched curling section in other areas. Basically I think I stretch the bias corners of the wool while working the facing on. That's probably just inexperienced ham-hands on my part, but I can't in good conscience suggest that others try it that way, make 10-15 wool garments and hey you'll get the hang of it.. esp when I still don't have the hang of it. So I wanted to try this new tactic of folding around my stitches like a modern tailor would apply a facing and see how it went, and I think it's more reliable for a newbie/intermediate maker. It requires 4 runs of stitching though. The 4th row is not mentioned in despatches but I can weasel justify that it is not seen without dismantling the seam, could have been linen that is now rotted out or some other cowardly intellectual dishonesty... hmm. I aspire to just pinch the facing onto the neckline and sew it down with the casual ease of Mathew Gnagy applying trim, but I aint there yet. th-cam.com/video/m3O260f_7KY/w-d-xo.html
Thank you! I have put a link in the notes to your Medieval Sewing Made Easy videos because I think they'll be a great starting point for anyone unsure of the individual stitches and techniques I mention.
The idea is to make it easier to handle into a precise crease at the desired location. Once it is in position, pressing steams off that water and sets the shape .
Cheers. I know I skipped out on this step for my first few garments after one look at the book but hopefully if it's clearly shown, people will be more comfortable having a go.
Very nice work! This is the Era I'm interested in. Though wool is above my budget right now 😢 I am making myself a kirtle soon, but I am modernizing it by making it in 15 Oz denim. I bet when it breaks in, it's going to be an absolute dream to wear!
Thank you! Having broken in 16oz denim jeans, I can imagine that will be a pretty uncomfortable start but yes, hopefully become soft with wear. I wouldn't say that sort of denim is a natural choice for a medieval dress but would recommend TH-cam videos by Popula Urbanum on cotton in medieval Europe.
I like your way of describing how you work - very clear. I’ll be keeping this video in mind for when I want to try this technique. Can I ask where you buy your woollen fabric and what terms I should look out for to find a lighter weight wool like this?
Hi sophie! The silk is from E&M Greenfield in Sydney and is a stock item from them. The wool is from The Remnant Warehouse in Sydney and was a passing remnant. I found you really have to be able to drop in there regularly and rummage around for a chance to get suitable wool there. I'll put 'finding good wool in Australia' on the requested videos list.
I have a question about the thread; ist there a general(ised) rule about the material it ist made of or a rule about when wool, silk oder linen thread is used or is it like a whatever you have is fine situation and do you know wether they would have been colored in a matching color?
Hello! There are certainly examples of high end garments where top stitch thread like buttonholes were matched, but also for buttonholes that were not matched. Most construction stitching was never seen, so could be a cheaper undyed thread. Certainly when fabric was issued in large households, there is no record of matching thread being issued with it.
One Question, why did you choose to cut around the basted/ pinned facing as opposed to a pre-cut neck line? Did this get you better results? Is this because it is a tunic style garment?
Great question!
When, in the past, I have cut a hole for my head and draped the pattern the wool the weight of the body panels cause the neckline to stretch out. After having this a couple of times and having some success repairing them with sort of drawstring basting thread, I resolved to always face or at least stitch to reinforce the neckline before ever draping the body.
Next, I am inconsistent with applying the facing to the wool. Tried freehanding it, pinning, basting, measuring whatever but when I cut, fold and apply the facing I tend to wind up putting too much facing on not enough neckline in places causing a slight gathered pucker and the opposite causing a stretched curling section in other areas. Basically I think I stretch the bias corners of the wool while working the facing on.
That's probably just inexperienced ham-hands on my part, but I can't in good conscience suggest that others try it that way, make 10-15 wool garments and hey you'll get the hang of it.. esp when I still don't have the hang of it.
So I wanted to try this new tactic of folding around my stitches like a modern tailor would apply a facing and see how it went, and I think it's more reliable for a newbie/intermediate maker.
It requires 4 runs of stitching though. The 4th row is not mentioned in despatches but I can weasel justify that it is not seen without dismantling the seam, could have been linen that is now rotted out or some other cowardly intellectual dishonesty... hmm.
I aspire to just pinch the facing onto the neckline and sew it down with the casual ease of Mathew Gnagy applying trim, but I aint there yet. th-cam.com/video/m3O260f_7KY/w-d-xo.html
@@CompanyoftheStaple Brillant, thank you for your insights, very informative
Thanks Elden. that is sensational. It is not like I thought it would look in the end. Very helpful.
Fantastic job, very informative as well.
Thank you! I have put a link in the notes to your Medieval Sewing Made Easy videos because I think they'll be a great starting point for anyone unsure of the individual stitches and techniques I mention.
@@CompanyoftheStaple Thank you very much
wow! i gotta say, this is neat in more ways than one!
How brilliant. 👌 More videos about the medieval sewing please. It's just what I was looking for. 😍😍
This was really useful. Thanks 😊
beautiful work!!
Thanks for this useful video. Nicely done!
Thanks Kiriel! Glad you liked it.
What is the benefit of wetting down the fabric before turning?
The idea is to make it easier to handle into a precise crease at the desired location. Once it is in position, pressing steams off that water and sets the shape .
Fantastic video, will be very useful for people looking to improve their skills or just getting started in the 14th century!
Cheers. I know I skipped out on this step for my first few garments after one look at the book but hopefully if it's clearly shown, people will be more comfortable having a go.
@@CompanyoftheStaple absolutely! I'll be showing our members to get them to do it!
Came out great Elden, I hope you film the front closure as well!
Thank you! I will have to try. :)
Very nice work! This is the Era I'm interested in. Though wool is above my budget right now 😢 I am making myself a kirtle soon, but I am modernizing it by making it in 15 Oz denim. I bet when it breaks in, it's going to be an absolute dream to wear!
Thank you! Having broken in 16oz denim jeans, I can imagine that will be a pretty uncomfortable start but yes, hopefully become soft with wear. I wouldn't say that sort of denim is a natural choice for a medieval dress but would recommend TH-cam videos by Popula Urbanum on cotton in medieval Europe.
I like your way of describing how you work - very clear. I’ll be keeping this video in mind for when I want to try this technique. Can I ask where you buy your woollen fabric and what terms I should look out for to find a lighter weight wool like this?
the real question is where do you get such lovely fabrics in australia haha
Hi sophie! The silk is from E&M Greenfield in Sydney and is a stock item from them. The wool is from The Remnant Warehouse in Sydney and was a passing remnant. I found you really have to be able to drop in there regularly and rummage around for a chance to get suitable wool there. I'll put 'finding good wool in Australia' on the requested videos list.
I have a question about the thread; ist there a general(ised) rule about the material it ist made of or a rule about when wool, silk oder linen thread is used or is it like a whatever you have is fine situation and do you know wether they would have been colored in a matching color?
Hello! There are certainly examples of high end garments where top stitch thread like buttonholes were matched, but also for buttonholes that were not matched. Most construction stitching was never seen, so could be a cheaper undyed thread. Certainly when fabric was issued in large households, there is no record of matching thread being issued with it.