Sooo disappointed for you that it failed. I admire your machining talent, and your attitude to "give it a go" to put your ideas into action. Looking forward to seeing the updated version. You've got to do it!!!
Well done, Adrian! Well, except for getting the gear low spot material so thin that it split from the tight fit... The inner shaft heats up before the gear teeth. POP! Your design and machine skills are enviable. I know you think there are only 2 options, however there is a third option. Option 3: Get in touch with Steve Mitchell at Mitchell Manufacturing and get one of his gear sets. Besides having synchronized 2nd and direct (3rd), he offers three different ratios. Options are: 15% higher 1st, 2nd, and reverse. Stock 1st and reverse, but 15% higher 2nd gear. All gear ratios as original. If you ever find yourself in the US, drop by and take a Model A for a spin with the Mitchell transmission in it. You'll say some cuss words in German when you experience it for the first time. It shifts like butter. And we have better tacos than you can get Germany anyway.
Steve Mitchell doesn't answer my emails anymore - plus, I lack the money for one of his transmissions, sadly. I don't mind unsynchronised - matter of fact it's one of the reasons I chose to buy the car - do you know if he offers his altered ratios straight-cut so they cooperate with original Ford parts, like the Brits at Belchers do theirs? Best Wishes
@@ModelA Seemed to me like Adrian and Steve are basically solving the same problem, with Steve adding the synchro on 2nd and 3rd gear. I haven't examined Steve's gearsets, and I'm guessing Adrian hasn't either, so I would be curious to see how their solutions compared to each other.
@@alexiskai I have one of Mitchell's transmissions in my shop right now, earmarked to be installed in Tina's roadster. You're welcome to come over and check it out. Absolute perfection. I am sending pictures of it to Adrian.
Very, very cool! The gear ratios in the Model A were designed for a different time and different road conditions. Most people in the 30s were looking for more speed and fuel economy in 3rd gear highway driving, hence the popularity of the Columbia 2-speed rear axle. Road and traffic conditions usually meant you would stay in 2nd for the majority of your city driving, so the ratios in the gearbox were arranged accordingly. Low gear was a stump-puller gear to make sure that take off in rough conditions wouldn't be a problem. Ironically, the much better road conditions of the 21st century work against the way the Model A was originally designed and built. It's unfortunate that the 2nd iteration of your solution had issues, but I really think you're onto something. As a bonus, you'll soon be able to R&R the transmission blindfolded, which will DEFINITELY come in handy some day!
Fully agree. Often overlooked is that the concept of a highway (in today’s sense) was unknown when the Model A was designed…the modern highway would only come a few years later in Germany (geographically full circle with this video!)
It was genius to conceive this idea and amazingly skillful to actualize it. Now you know how the engineers at Ford Motor Co. managed to finally get a reliable Model A on the road. Many, many failures, leading to a few successes and eventually to a final, workable design. Don't ever give up. You have the drive, determination, and skill of a true innovator. Henry Ford would've been proud. Thank you for this video.
I reckon what'd really be helpful in an experiment like this would be sort of a test stand which would cycle the transmission through different loads. Much less effort than being towed home and taking it in and out of the car each time it cracks xD
The speed of 1st and 2nd gears was excellent as was the ease of shifting due to the closer ratios. I hope you can figure out a solution and put it in production for the rest of us. Viel Glück!
Nice job. It’s so obvious a solution I wonder why it was never instituted by Ford or offered by a second party manufacturer. As you demonstrated, the car was much more tractable & pleasant to drive with your modification. I wish you success.
UGH! You poor guy. I will say that your excitement when it was working was fun. I am impressed by your skills. May your fix make the transmission even better! 🙏🏼 Viel gluck
A masterpiece of great engineering! I hope you will make these or have them made for all of us who LOVE our Model A Fords, I hate you had issues with the one gear, but I bet you can do a redesign! "Now" You are using some BEAUTIFUL music that fits the model a era! I LOVE that! I listen to this and have quite a collection of 78 rpm records! I post them on my roybo1930 site! I would LOVE a list of the music you used in this AWESOME video! And the artist who did them! I think the first is My Moonlight Madonna! I can only guess who recorded it! I LOVE the wonderful work You did here!
Thanks and Greetings! 10:20 - "Poem" by Fud Candrix 13:33 - "Wenn ein kleiner Zufall will" by Eddy Walis 27:39 - "Kommen Sie zu mir zum Tee" by Marek Weber
Interesting solution! You are a better mechanical engineer than me, but I wonder if surface hardening of the teeth and keeping the shaft a bit more ductile would help (as well as getting every micro-millimeter of material). I would encourage you to try revision 2.0 as the car was transformed. We run a 50’s era Borg Warner overdrive half way down the transmission shaft on our 31 pickup…it is a solution but with a whole bunch of other complications.
Man with courage. High respect for people who are not afraid. You will prevail. Remember H. Ford only succeeded the third time he tried. How about using a later Ford gearbox, or is that obvious blasphemy?
Thanks alot. I really don't want to get into making custom U-Joints or adapter plates or modify the flywheel to mount a V8 clutch - from the outside, it should still look stock. Maybe there's still potential in this housing.
@@AstraWerke I see that Paul S. already referred you to Mitchell as option 3. I just happened to watch Tina S's video with him, three months back. TH-cam does not even allow its own links, how annoying. Next for me is to try a new bendix drive to hopefully lessen the hard flywheel knock. Then a hunt for all the rattling and vibration noises. But other than that all the mechanics should be ok now. Not as pretty as yours though.
I say do a redesign! You are just about to make a serious improvement! My very good Friend Mike Hartmann makes the High Speed rearend gears for the model AA Ford and TT Trucks! So, I truly appreciate the work you have done here!
I applaud your range of skills, being a mechanical engineer myself, never-mind the excellent production quality of your video. I'm not sure of the level of press-fit you used, but that certainly adds to the hoop stress that particular gear is already under, being straight off the clutch ... which I note does not have a torsionally-soft coupling as is relatively common for good reason in modern cars. But I'm more concerned about the replacement of a needle bearing with a bushing. My opinion is that it would have been the next weak point had the new primary ratio worked. There will be a solution to achieve the results you want, it's just a matter of finding it. I have no doubt you will.
@@paulaxford6754 Yeah, the pressed on solution was a dead concept from the beginning (in hindsight), but curiosity got the best of me. I've actually got high confidence in the bronze bushing, as both bearing and shaft are rotating. This way, the wear is distributed evenly and it won't get oval. It swims in oil, diameter is rather small, and for the most part, it sits idle in 3rd gear anyways.
Your skills are amazing. The shifting looks great and obviously you are happy with the performance under load. I must say I either missed the video about an accident or I just plain forgot. When you first pulled out of the garage it looked like a tuned up hot rod without the fenders and running board!! I am so sorry to see the failure while driving home. That is very unfortunate.
My first thought was to make a new second gear floating on the output shaft to correspond to your new input shaft design. After some thought, I see that you probably don't have the diameter available for the larger input shaft gear profile inside the second gear profile. You may be able to truncate the input shaft gear diameter in the direct drive engagement area enough to fit and have enough engagement. Another possibility is to cut the original direct drive profile on a new input shaft with a CNC milling machine so you don't have the relief cut in your original input shaft design. I don't think the tolerances need to be very tight on the direct drive coupling surfaces. Excellent work so far! The setbacks are a bummer, but it is a wonderful project! 👍✌☮
We have the same issue with the 3-speed crash box on the Austin 7s, very similar design! Slightly different approach, easier and available off-the-shelf, so no waiting times, cogs on the layshaft are all separate on the Austin 'box. The way it is done, is to remove & discard second gear, and replace with new, intermediate gear shifter cog on the main shaft is re-machined (this is traded on an exchange basis), same number of teeth, the existing part is now smaller and the new part is now bigger. They call this the "Andes Gear". Quite easy to just swap the parts over (and fit new parts that are worn - nearly all bearings, layshaft, keys are available brand-new) and re-fit! The result is as you have found, the car is more usable, climbs hills better and can even accelerate. Without the gearbox modification, I would not use my car the way I do (as a regular driver) - the screaming engine is just too much and holding up traffic in a busy area is not good! Bad luck that there was a failure, at least you have proved it works, don't go back to stock, now a case of making it more robust, shame to have to do the research & development yourself and bear the cost in time & money - always better if someone else does that part! Brilliant work, you did succeed, so well done! Thanks for sharing. Greetings from the UK!
Keep at it! looks like you're doing a way better job than i do fabricating with a grinder an the wielder. It always takes multiple prototypes! A video about installing a racing transmission, I'm so glad it wasn't! That would've been boring I loved it & can't wait to see part 2
That was absolutely amazing! I am sure that you will get the issue sorted. Keep up the good work-I look forward to seeing how you resolve the issue sir.
We will see if any problems emerge in the long run, but the argument "Ford knew exactly what he did and everything has a reason" does not necessarily appeal to everything. Remarkable job!
very good modification on that car, this is a small design error that can be aesily corrected by revisiting the input shaft design. by the way, the transmission seems much quuieter so your gear tooth design is spot on. At the cost of speecial gear hobbig, another way is to find the gearing of a more modern 3 speed gearbox and and its case the original Ford bellhousing and tail housing. Another option is a modern all synchro gearbox adapted to the Ford. For sure that it removes a bit of originality to the old model A but it is a much safer way.
@@AstraWerke If you start your design from a gearbox attached to a 4x4 transfert case, I believe that you can do something that involves no more work than what you done to your gearbox I admit that the design of the tail portion with the spherical pivot is the worst portion of the adaptation.
When I bought my 31 4 door Town car last year I was disappointed with how low 2nd gears ration was! I'm really surprised that by 1931 Ford hadn't addressed this issue, as its so obvious!
I have a Mitchell Synchro Transmission, 1st and 2nd ratios are 15% higher than stock and 2nd and 3rd have synchros. IMO, this trans is a better choice the the Mitchell Gear Splitter (altho I have both in my '30 Town Sedan). I really enjoyed your video tho, great job.
I have refused to drive my 1926 Dodge on any hill because I have to double clutch each shift and I know it will end badly. By the way, I envy you. I wish I could build my own transmission from scratch.
Well, it was certainly the one where the most could go wrong if I goofed things up (like I did). BUT I gave all the complicated machining work away, so for me it was basically just making the drawings, turning the pieces and organising the rest. Rebuilding the entire engine was a big project, too - and the steam engines aren't exactly a walk in the park either ;P
Very Nice --------- Machining the gear blanks ------ what was the material you were using -------- the chips were coming off so uniform -------- The wall thickness ------ what did that end up being? ------- Yeah ----- you did have a lot of worn and chipped teeth in there ------ then you got the new set of gears in there ------ made a world of difference ------- smoother and quieter ------ Of course a LOT of that noise was the gap in the input shaft ----- a lot of wear there ------- So , with a little more tweaking ------ and all the bugs worked out ------- What will be your final cost to the public for a set of gears? ------------ Thanks for the video - Adrian - ALWAYS ---- enjoy your machining skills ------ the thoughts that are put into it ----- and the use of the Old Equipment ------- Will wait and see what you do for a remedy ----- BIG improvement on handling hills ------ Hope you have a Good Week ----- Rodney
We're talking about 2.9mm of wall "thickness" - in hindsight, I'm surprised it didn't already crack when I hammered it onto the shaft. I think I paid around a thousand quid for material, having the gear teeth cut, hardening and EDM - with a LOT of friendship discount. If you wanted to make a living off this, it'd probably be more like 2k. As for material, I usd 16MnCr5 - an old classic in engineering. Best Wishes Adrian
Nice work! I’m retired toolmaker, I’m the third owner of a 1928 Durant M2. Make that gear over, EDM leaves a recast layer that sets up fractures. Remove recast layer. Flame harden the teeth, leaving the center softer. My two cents. ✌️
Man that is a great idea to improve the transmission I know you are trying to keep the stock setup but what about swapping in a modern transmission and have the best of both worlds
The gearing in the Ford Model A is strange. Must have made sense back in the day with poor roads. Mitchell offers a syncro transmission with modified 1st and 2nd ratios, but my pickup is light enough to pull most of the hills here in New England in 3rd.
This may have already been covered. But I just watched this video and it's great. I was wondering if you were double clutching that would definitely improve your shifting speed.
If anybody can do what you wanted to I have confidence in your ability's. Very interesting channel! PS as soon as you find out how to modify your gear sets I would like to buy one.
Nice solution! I have a similar issue, but require a different fix. I wish to convert my Model A gearbox to have 2nd and 3rd gear in constant mesh with a sliding dog between them to engage one or the other. Like a motorcycle box, for a hill climb special. If anyone has seen or done this , I would love to get some info, details pics or drawings.
Like you said yourself, the only real way to see if your design work was any good was to test it in the real world. I think you'll get it solved! The original gearing is sometimes incredibly frustrating when driving out in the wild, and not everyone has the cash to shell out, nor the time to sit and wait for something like a Mitchell overdrive. I feel like if you can come up with a final solution that is actually viable and bulletproof, you could very possibly have a whole slew of people lining up for these.
Hi Adrian, ich schaue immer deine Videos und finde sie sehr interessant und spannend wie die Transmission Modification. Hut ab, dass du dich da ran wagst und dann auch noch ein hervorragendes Ergebnis erzielst. Wie wärs mit der Produktion eines Umbausatzes? Etwas off topic, aber beim Bestellen neuer Lagerschalen für meine King Pins bin ich auf die "Lenk-Begrenzungsfunktion" des King Pin Locking Bolts gestoßen und habe mich an dein Video erinnert, wo du zeigst, dass der rechte?? Reifen beim Einschlagen immer irgendwo gegen stößt. Vielleicht wurde da nicht die lange originale Nuss, sondern irgendeine normale Nuß benutzt, die dann die Stoppfunktion nicht ausüben kann? KING PIN LOCKING BOLT/NUT Part # A-3122/24 | Model Year 28-31 Special bolt, nut, and lock washer that locks the spindle bolt in place in the axle. Nut goes on back side of axle and provides the stopping point for the spindle when the wheels are turned.
Hallo und vielen Dank! Im Endeffekt hatte jemand die Bolzen von der falschen Seite montiert, sodass die Muttern nicht anschlagen konnten. Ich habe die Bolzen umgedreht und jetzt arbeitet alles, wie es soll.
Excellent machine work. Your ratios sound similar to those offered in the Mitchell transmission. BTW, you shouldn’t have to wait to upshift to third. Maybe that was caused the damaged gear teeth?
It's pretty simple: If you shift and the transmission makes a loud noise, it didn't like it. If the shift is quiet, no harm done. Had I tried to shift it quicker, I'd have ground the gears. Plus, it'd have worn the input shaft and the inside of 2nd gear, not the outside of 2nd and the cluster gear. Since the tooth was chipped on the right, it was probably caused by someone that didn't understand downshifting from 3rd into 2nd.
@@AstraWerke You are right. Also, I wonder if your car has lower rear axle gearing than most. I can’t imagine reaching 30mph in second gear with any of my cars with the 3:78 standard ratio.
At 8:47 the (black) subtitle works well against the white paper, but the right hand side gets lost against the black background. You *could* look carefully at the image, and pick a colour that would contrast in both areas (say, blue). But to avoid hassle, it's easier to just use and outline font - a simple white shadow (in addition to the decorative black shadow) would ensure that the text is always readable, no matter the background. And I'm sorry your transmission broke.
Hi, Super video! Wenn du mehr Zahnräder herstellen wirst und verkaufen möchtest, bin ich sehr interessiert! Ich fahre fast jeden Tag mit meinem 30er Tudor zur Arbeit, und viel weiter. Grüsse aus den Niederlanden! Joe
I am not an engineer but could the splines be cut off the first motion shaft you made and a new one made to fit in the space made by making the bronze bush smaller. All the best Peter
@@peterkilner512 The bushing diameter isn't the critical section. It's the larger bore up front which the 2nd gear wheel is pushed into for direct drive.
The new splined section would be flush with the new smaller drive gear and may be undercut to provide a stop for the ford 2nd gear .This new splined section could then be slid into the space provded by smaller bush and splined to fix the drive All the best Peter
@@peterkilner512 So you mean making a new input shaft without the spline for direkt drive, spline the inside and make an insert with the direct drive spline that gets pressed into the new input shaft, did I get that right?
@@AstraWerke Not a new first motion shaft you made but cut off 3rd drive splines and make a new part that fits inside the first motion shaft splined to provides the drive for 3rd gear and fits inside the space made by the smaller bronze bush it is replacing your new part driving the layshaft with a part driving 3rd gear All the best Peter
No synchros is part of the fun for me. From what I hear, nearly all 1930s cars suffer from the gap between 2 and 3. Maybe due to the road conditions - or maybe because "that's just the way we all do it".
@@AstraWerke See the problem much clearer now that I have the 2 shafts and 2nd gear in front of me. I keep on playing with them and try to find a way to solve it. If you want I can send you my spare gearbox so you can drive your car while fixing your problem.(can be there this weekend)
I believe that your first "gear-shaft cut-gear modification" would have been successful. There's really not a lot of stress on 2nd gear (unlike first), nor is there a lot of long-term wear like 3rd gear. Just my opinion (IMHO) of course but if it was my car (I have a '29 pickup) that's the way that "I" would go.
I thought about it, too. But after being very lucky with where my transmission decided to fail, I decided, not to push my luck and rather think of a sturdier contraption.
@@AstraWerke I'm a physicist, not an engineer/machinist, so I bow to your superior knowledge and expertise. A silly question perhaps but are you using Grade 3 steel as it is a super-high strength steel.
@@joelb740 Well, engine transmissions are a new territory for me, too. I don't know if it's Grade 3, but I'm using 16MnCr5, an old classic when it comes to gears and transmissions. It's been hardened to 53 Rockwell, which is already pretty tough, my fear is if I go too hard, then I'll wear out the original transmission components which my parts have to cooperate with.
Hi its me again. As a new first motion shaft is to be made why not mahe a new 2nd gear to take the same number of teeth you could them stronger All the best pete.
There's no space. Increase the inside cutout in 2nd and you'll run right into the outside teeth. Of course, make 2nd larger. Well then you'd need a new cluster gear, too - and all your ratios are messed up. It's a vicious cycle xD
Yes and no. The Model A pickup truck has the same transmission but a different rear end ratio, the Model AA 1.5 ton truck has a 4 speed transmission with an even lower 1st. 2, 3 and 4 on the AA are equivalent to 1, 2, 3 on the A.
I don't remember an accident? Or are you talking about the engine re-build? On consideration, will there be hills whereby you cannot get up in 2nd gear and thus be in the same prediciment but with 1st gear instead? Anyway, a lot of hard work you put into that, well done! But a pity with the outcome, in a way. 1 step forward, and 1 step backwards.
Due to all the many questions about the Model A, I swapped the timeline around a little. More on the accident later. There may be hills that need to be taken in 1st, but I havent come around any. Maybe if you live in the Alps, but then you'd be better off with the stock transmission anyways. Or with a different car alltogehter xD
Adding synchronizers would have been nice. I've noticed in cars today, the RPM difference between the gears is about 500 RPM. So as you shift, the engine slows down about this number between the different speeds.
It'd make things worse. A faster rear end increases the gaps between gears because it acts as a multiplier. Sure, you can go faster in 2nd, but you'd also have to go much faster to get into 3rd. Might work on a light car (coupe or roadster), but probably alot of struggle for a heavier Tudor or Fordor.
you should but it is still somewhat slow, not like a modern syncro transmission. Plus if the transmission is worn and out of spec it will take even longer.
upshift or downshift? Upshifting without clutch it's easy, throw it in neutral at the right moment when the gears float. Then let the the engine slow down in refs till the right moment, you can drag the gears very slightly to feel if the speed matches, then throw it in confidently and fast without hesitation (so it doesn't grab half way) Downshifting is the harder part, because you need to rev up the engine to the correct speed during neutral. Both can be done nicely with practice, but there is always a risk of damaging your gears if you make a mistake... so do it at your own digression
From the picture if the gears, they are still straight cut. Without spiral gears and synchros, you'll still have to double-clutch, so how is that an improvement on the old"crash-box"?
...actually, I was half expecting that there was going to be trouble with that small gear: I'm pretty sure that all that pounding didn't help-(?) I know I'm late to the party- but I'd like to suggest that you had "the right idea, but the wrong approach"... Regarding "interference fits" there are TH-cam videos of a machinist in Australia who uses a torch to expand a mating part- and uses liquid nitrogen to shrink the other mating part- and there is a machinist in the U.S. who also uses a torch to expand a mating part, and uses dry ice to shrink the other mating part. Using these techniques, the mating parts are easily assembled, with little or no pounding. As for your problem, I wonder if the cracked gear could be laser welded- and you could try again- only this time- chill one part, and heat the small gear before assembling...(?)
I'm unclear as to why the Ford engineers settled upon the stock gear ratios. When I am instructing new drivers at the museum I explain the transmission operates similar to a four speed which is missing second gear. Ford must have known about this gap in the drive ratio. How do you suppose they arrived at this configuration? Did it serve a purpose other than frustrating the drivers stuck behind me? My 1929 is the same as it came from the assembly line. No modern conveniences or safety mods. It has a twin sister though that does the quarter mile in 13 seconds. Very little Model A left in that one.
It's a common issue on all 30s vehicles, not just Fords. One could argue it's been designed for the rougher roads, but I wouldn't mind going down a rough road in my modded 2nd. Others might say that if everyone has the same handicap, no one is handicapped at all... It's definately not a constructive issue - if you design a transmission from the ground up, you can put any set of gears into it and make it work and last fine.
@@AstraWerke I have a Mitchell Synchro Transmission, 1st and 2nd ratios are 15% higher than stock and 2nd and 3rd have synchros. IMO, this trans is a better choice the the Mitchell Gear Splitter (altho I have both in my '30 Town Sedan). I really enjoyed your video tho, great job.
Well, 3rd gear is what you're driving about in, mostly. Sure, the car is already in motion, but we're still talking about moving a 1 ton vehicle on 2.4mm of wall "thickness". I don't think this'd be a match for a 3.3 litre engine.
@@AstraWerke Make a new shaft with thicker cross-section in that area. Because you have switched to a bushing you could make the hole smaller and use a thinner walled bushing
@@KrashPad The needle bearing bore sadly isnt the weak point. It's the even larger hole right up front where the 2nd gear gets pushed into to engage high. You could machine away the boss from 2nd gear, but that'd make the force path from the teeth to the axle weird, probably resulting in twisting motions that could cause it to pop out of gear, or wear out the output shaft prematurely.
They run well with t5 5-speed borg Warner boxes also. From s10 Chevrolet trucks possibly ford ranger also. Maybe a 6speed from japan would work also . Myself id swap in a 20r ,22re from older Toyota, with a 5speed.
Amongst the videos that TH-cam recommended to watch next after this is one with the title "1930 Model A T5 transmission conversion" - that is completely by coincidence, I am sure of it ... ;-)
...one part should have been expanded by heating- and the other part should have been shrunk by chilling- that's a proven technique for making interference fits...
Sooo disappointed for you that it failed.
I admire your machining talent, and your attitude to "give it a go" to put your ideas into action. Looking forward to seeing the updated version. You've got to do it!!!
I'm already working on a 2nd version. As with this last one, it'll take a while, but I haven't given up :)
Well done, Adrian! Well, except for getting the gear low spot material so thin that it split from the tight fit... The inner shaft heats up before the gear teeth. POP! Your design and machine skills are enviable.
I know you think there are only 2 options, however there is a third option. Option 3: Get in touch with Steve Mitchell at Mitchell Manufacturing and get one of his gear sets. Besides having synchronized 2nd and direct (3rd), he offers three different ratios.
Options are:
15% higher 1st, 2nd, and reverse.
Stock 1st and reverse, but 15% higher 2nd gear.
All gear ratios as original.
If you ever find yourself in the US, drop by and take a Model A for a spin with the Mitchell transmission in it. You'll say some cuss words in German when you experience it for the first time. It shifts like butter. And we have better tacos than you can get Germany anyway.
Steve Mitchell doesn't answer my emails anymore - plus, I lack the money for one of his transmissions, sadly.
I don't mind unsynchronised - matter of fact it's one of the reasons I chose to buy the car - do you know if he offers his altered ratios straight-cut so they cooperate with original Ford parts, like the Brits at Belchers do theirs?
Best Wishes
@@AstraWerke I will send you an email.
@@ModelA Seemed to me like Adrian and Steve are basically solving the same problem, with Steve adding the synchro on 2nd and 3rd gear. I haven't examined Steve's gearsets, and I'm guessing Adrian hasn't either, so I would be curious to see how their solutions compared to each other.
@@alexiskai I have one of Mitchell's transmissions in my shop right now, earmarked to be installed in Tina's roadster. You're welcome to come over and check it out. Absolute perfection. I am sending pictures of it to Adrian.
@@ModelA I don't think I'll make it out to CA in time, but I appreciate it
Very, very cool!
The gear ratios in the Model A were designed for a different time and different road conditions. Most people in the 30s were looking for more speed and fuel economy in 3rd gear highway driving, hence the popularity of the Columbia 2-speed rear axle. Road and traffic conditions usually meant you would stay in 2nd for the majority of your city driving, so the ratios in the gearbox were arranged accordingly. Low gear was a stump-puller gear to make sure that take off in rough conditions wouldn't be a problem.
Ironically, the much better road conditions of the 21st century work against the way the Model A was originally designed and built.
It's unfortunate that the 2nd iteration of your solution had issues, but I really think you're onto something. As a bonus, you'll soon be able to R&R the transmission blindfolded, which will DEFINITELY come in handy some day!
Fully agree. Often overlooked is that the concept of a highway (in today’s sense) was unknown when the Model A was designed…the modern highway would only come a few years later in Germany (geographically full circle with this video!)
It was genius to conceive this idea and amazingly skillful to actualize it. Now you know how the engineers at Ford Motor Co. managed to finally get a reliable Model A on the road. Many, many failures, leading to a few successes and eventually to a final, workable design. Don't ever give up. You have the drive, determination, and skill of a true innovator. Henry Ford would've been proud. Thank you for this video.
I reckon what'd really be helpful in an experiment like this would be sort of a test stand which would cycle the transmission through different loads. Much less effort than being towed home and taking it in and out of the car each time it cracks xD
...well, even EDISON didn't always get it right the first time- EITHER...(!)
R E S P E C T. This is what TH-cam is all about! Thanks for sharing this impressive project.
The speed of 1st and 2nd gears was excellent as was the ease of shifting due to the closer ratios. I hope you can figure out a solution and put it in production for the rest of us. Viel Glück!
Excellent job and calculations. Gear ratios were spot on. Even with a a bummer of a final result. Seems like you’re almost there. Best of luck!!
Nice job. It’s so obvious a solution I wonder why it was never instituted by Ford or offered by a second party manufacturer. As you demonstrated, the car was much more tractable & pleasant to drive with your modification. I wish you success.
Quite Impressive. Yes the 2-3 shift is long especially in today's traffic. Don't give up!
UGH! You poor guy. I will say that your excitement when it was working was fun. I am impressed by your skills. May your fix make the transmission even better! 🙏🏼 Viel gluck
I am impressed with your knowledge and drive. Put me on the list of buyers when it’s ready!
A masterpiece of great engineering! I hope you will make these or have them made for all of us who LOVE our Model A Fords, I hate you had issues with the one gear, but I bet you can do a redesign! "Now" You are using some BEAUTIFUL music that fits the model a era! I LOVE that! I listen to this and have quite a collection of 78 rpm records! I post them on my roybo1930 site! I would LOVE a list of the music you used in this AWESOME video! And the artist who did them! I think the first is My Moonlight Madonna! I can only guess who recorded it! I LOVE the wonderful work You did here!
Thanks and Greetings!
10:20 - "Poem" by Fud Candrix
13:33 - "Wenn ein kleiner Zufall will" by Eddy Walis
27:39 - "Kommen Sie zu mir zum Tee" by Marek Weber
It's great how you made the video edits in time with the music at 11:46
well done young man, I want one. I love the way it is geared, you are the man.
Sell me one!!
Interesting solution! You are a better mechanical engineer than me, but I wonder if surface hardening of the teeth and keeping the shaft a bit more ductile would help (as well as getting every micro-millimeter of material).
I would encourage you to try revision 2.0 as the car was transformed. We run a 50’s era Borg Warner overdrive half way down the transmission shaft on our 31 pickup…it is a solution but with a whole bunch of other complications.
The shaft was only surface-hardened to 0.5mm depth.
I'm currently working on a one-piece inout shaft design, fingers crossed ;)
You will triumph! The car’s transformation is your motivation!
Man with courage. High respect for people who are not afraid. You will prevail. Remember H. Ford only succeeded the third time he tried. How about using a later Ford gearbox, or is that obvious blasphemy?
Thanks alot. I really don't want to get into making custom U-Joints or adapter plates or modify the flywheel to mount a V8 clutch - from the outside, it should still look stock. Maybe there's still potential in this housing.
@@AstraWerke I see that Paul S. already referred you to Mitchell as option 3. I just happened to watch Tina S's video with him, three months back. TH-cam does not even allow its own links, how annoying. Next for me is to try a new bendix drive to hopefully lessen the hard flywheel knock. Then a hunt for all the rattling and vibration noises. But other than that all the mechanics should be ok now. Not as pretty as yours though.
I say do a redesign! You are just about to make a serious improvement! My very good Friend Mike Hartmann makes the High Speed rearend gears for the model AA Ford and TT Trucks! So, I truly appreciate the work you have done here!
Great idea. Hope you get it worked out and should be commended for your efforts. You have gone where most wouldn't dare.
I applaud your range of skills, being a mechanical engineer myself, never-mind the excellent production quality of your video. I'm not sure of the level of press-fit you used, but that certainly adds to the hoop stress that particular gear is already under, being straight off the clutch ... which I note does not have a torsionally-soft coupling as is relatively common for good reason in modern cars. But I'm more concerned about the replacement of a needle bearing with a bushing. My opinion is that it would have been the next weak point had the new primary ratio worked. There will be a solution to achieve the results you want, it's just a matter of finding it. I have no doubt you will.
@@paulaxford6754 Yeah, the pressed on solution was a dead concept from the beginning (in hindsight), but curiosity got the best of me.
I've actually got high confidence in the bronze bushing, as both bearing and shaft are rotating. This way, the wear is distributed evenly and it won't get oval.
It swims in oil, diameter is rather small, and for the most part, it sits idle in 3rd gear anyways.
Very impressive! You did an excellent job of figuring out the ratio spread. Too bad that pressed on gear failed. It sounded like a good solution.
Your skills are amazing. The shifting looks great and obviously you are happy with the performance under load. I must say I either missed the video about an accident or I just plain forgot. When you first pulled out of the garage it looked like a tuned up hot rod without the fenders and running board!! I am so sorry to see the failure while driving home. That is very unfortunate.
I had to swap the timeline around a little bit due to all the "Where's the Model A?"-questions around xD
My first thought was to make a new second gear floating on the output shaft to correspond to your new input shaft design. After some thought, I see that you probably don't have the diameter available for the larger input shaft gear profile inside the second gear profile. You may be able to truncate the input shaft gear diameter in the direct drive engagement area enough to fit and have enough engagement.
Another possibility is to cut the original direct drive profile on a new input shaft with a CNC milling machine so you don't have the relief cut in your original input shaft design. I don't think the tolerances need to be very tight on the direct drive coupling surfaces.
Excellent work so far! The setbacks are a bummer, but it is a wonderful project! 👍✌☮
@@chrismorrison8510 Cnc-milling the profile for direct drive to eliminate the undercut is my plan, too. Should give alot of additional ridgidity
We have the same issue with the 3-speed crash box on the Austin 7s, very similar design! Slightly different approach, easier and available off-the-shelf, so no waiting times, cogs on the layshaft are all separate on the Austin 'box.
The way it is done, is to remove & discard second gear, and replace with new, intermediate gear shifter cog on the main shaft is re-machined (this is traded on an exchange basis), same number of teeth, the existing part is now smaller and the new part is now bigger. They call this the "Andes Gear". Quite easy to just swap the parts over (and fit new parts that are worn - nearly all bearings, layshaft, keys are available brand-new) and re-fit!
The result is as you have found, the car is more usable, climbs hills better and can even accelerate. Without the gearbox modification, I would not use my car the way I do (as a regular driver) - the screaming engine is just too much and holding up traffic in a busy area is not good!
Bad luck that there was a failure, at least you have proved it works, don't go back to stock, now a case of making it more robust, shame to have to do the research & development yourself and bear the cost in time & money - always better if someone else does that part!
Brilliant work, you did succeed, so well done! Thanks for sharing. Greetings from the UK!
Keep at it! looks like you're doing a way better job than i do fabricating with a grinder an the wielder. It always takes multiple prototypes! A video about installing a racing transmission, I'm so glad it wasn't! That would've been boring I loved it & can't wait to see part 2
That was absolutely amazing! I am sure that you will get the issue sorted. Keep up the good work-I look forward to seeing how you resolve the issue sir.
I'm so impressed with your talents!!!
We will see if any problems emerge in the long run, but the argument "Ford knew exactly what he did and everything has a reason" does not necessarily appeal to everything. Remarkable job!
Amen. Ford surely was a clever fella, but he wasn't the inerrant half-god he is often portrayed as.
A really fine answer to the question.
Another great video!! I do enjoy your endeavors.. Please keep us with you in this interesting journey.. Thank you for sharing!!
Ask Paul Shinn, I think there's a Mitchell Overdrive in your future! That will help you alot.
@@elosogonzalez8739 I know
very good modification on that car, this is a small design error that can be aesily corrected by revisiting the input shaft design.
by the way, the transmission seems much quuieter so your gear tooth design is spot on.
At the cost of speecial gear hobbig, another way is to find the gearing of a more modern 3 speed gearbox and and its case the original Ford bellhousing and tail housing.
Another option is a modern all synchro gearbox adapted to the Ford.
For sure that it removes a bit of originality to the old model A but it is a much safer way.
Phew, making a bell housing adapter and adapting clutch and U-joint to fit a different shaft profile is more work than you think!
@@AstraWerke If you start your design from a gearbox attached to a 4x4 transfert case, I believe that you can do something that involves no more work than what you done to your gearbox I admit that the design of the tail portion with the spherical pivot is the worst portion of the adaptation.
So happy to see another Model A video from you! I was afraid you grew tired of the ol ’ gal.
When I bought my 31 4 door Town car last year I was disappointed with how low 2nd gears ration was! I'm really surprised that by 1931 Ford hadn't addressed this issue, as its so obvious!
I have a Mitchell Synchro Transmission, 1st and 2nd ratios are 15% higher than stock and 2nd and 3rd have synchros. IMO, this trans is a better choice the the Mitchell Gear Splitter (altho I have both in my '30 Town Sedan).
I really enjoyed your video tho, great job.
wo du dich überall dran traust, wieder eine super und erfolreiche arbeit... 😉👍👍👍
I have refused to drive my 1926 Dodge on any hill because I have to double clutch each shift and I know it will end badly. By the way, I envy you. I wish I could build my own transmission from scratch.
Loved your post video outtake Larry! 😀
If you can make this work, I am sure you can put it into production. I for one would like this on my car too.
This looks like an incredibly complex project. Would you say this was your most challenging to date
Well, it was certainly the one where the most could go wrong if I goofed things up (like I did).
BUT I gave all the complicated machining work away, so for me it was basically just making the drawings, turning the pieces and organising the rest.
Rebuilding the entire engine was a big project, too - and the steam engines aren't exactly a walk in the park either ;P
Muy buenos trabajos,como siempre,es un gusto verte trabajar, ya vas a lograr mejorarlo , saludos desde Argentina
You got it bud, I got faith in you!
Very Nice --------- Machining the gear blanks ------ what was the material you were using -------- the chips were coming off so uniform -------- The wall thickness ------ what did that end up being? ------- Yeah ----- you did have a lot of worn and chipped teeth in there ------ then you got the new set of gears in there ------ made a world of difference ------- smoother and quieter ------ Of course a LOT of that noise was the gap in the input shaft ----- a lot of wear there ------- So , with a little more tweaking ------ and all the bugs worked out ------- What will be your final cost to the public for a set of gears? ------------ Thanks for the video - Adrian -
ALWAYS ---- enjoy your machining skills ------ the thoughts that are put into it ----- and the use of the Old Equipment ------- Will wait and see what you do for a remedy ----- BIG improvement on handling hills ------ Hope you have a Good Week ----- Rodney
We're talking about 2.9mm of wall "thickness" - in hindsight, I'm surprised it didn't already crack when I hammered it onto the shaft.
I think I paid around a thousand quid for material, having the gear teeth cut, hardening and EDM - with a LOT of friendship discount. If you wanted to make a living off this, it'd probably be more like 2k.
As for material, I usd 16MnCr5 - an old classic in engineering.
Best Wishes
Adrian
Nice work! I’m retired toolmaker, I’m the third owner of a 1928 Durant M2. Make that gear over, EDM leaves a recast layer that sets up fractures. Remove recast layer. Flame harden the teeth, leaving the center softer. My two cents. ✌️
All good points, thanks for your intel! I fear though, that no way will lead around more wall thickness for that gear.
I love your ford clock.
It's a mid-30s timepiece made by "Westclox", called the Autoclock.
I uploaded a video about fixing it up some time ago if you're interested
@@AstraWerke I'll look that video up. Great Ford videos.
Man that is a great idea to improve the transmission I know you are trying to keep the stock setup but what about swapping in a modern transmission and have the best of both worlds
Not an option for me. I want it to look the same and be operated in the same way as originally.
Way back, I had a friend sub in a pinto manual transmission. I don’t recall how he mated the trans to the bell housing, etc, but it worked great!
The gearing in the Ford Model A is strange. Must have made sense back in the day with poor roads. Mitchell offers a syncro transmission with modified 1st and 2nd ratios, but my pickup is light enough to pull most of the hills here in New England in 3rd.
Also added the Mitchell synchromesh to my 31 A Tudor. Night and day difference plus much easier downshifts.
Respekt und Hut ab!
This may have already been covered. But I just watched this video and it's great. I was wondering if you were double clutching that would definitely improve your shifting speed.
Yes I do :)
If anybody can do what you wanted to I have confidence in your ability's. Very interesting channel! PS as soon as you find out how to
modify your gear sets I would like to buy one.
nice engineering :) is there any way to weld new gear on the shaft and still retain or come back to 53Hrc?
@@kosir1234 Theoretically yes. But since I don't know what exactly the old shaft is made of, I can't be sure the weld will be good.
Nice solution! I have a similar issue, but require a different fix. I wish to convert my Model A gearbox to have 2nd and 3rd gear in constant mesh with a sliding dog between them to engage one or the other. Like a motorcycle box, for a hill climb special.
If anyone has seen or done this , I would love to get some info, details pics or drawings.
Very nice!
For your driving footage, are you stabilizing the image in software or using a gimbal mount?
It's a loaned Gopro vacuum-cupped to the rear window. Has some fancy stabilizing software inside, but don't ask me how it works xD
Like you said yourself, the only real way to see if your design work was any good was to test it in the real world. I think you'll get it solved! The original gearing is sometimes incredibly frustrating when driving out in the wild, and not everyone has the cash to shell out, nor the time to sit and wait for something like a Mitchell overdrive.
I feel like if you can come up with a final solution that is actually viable and bulletproof, you could very possibly have a whole slew of people lining up for these.
Oooops... But you will fix it. You're very close to success.
Hi Adrian, ich schaue immer deine Videos und finde sie sehr interessant und spannend wie die Transmission Modification. Hut ab, dass du dich da ran wagst und dann auch noch ein hervorragendes Ergebnis erzielst. Wie wärs mit der Produktion eines Umbausatzes?
Etwas off topic, aber beim Bestellen neuer Lagerschalen für meine King Pins bin ich auf die "Lenk-Begrenzungsfunktion" des King Pin Locking Bolts gestoßen und habe mich an dein Video erinnert, wo du zeigst, dass der rechte?? Reifen beim Einschlagen immer irgendwo gegen stößt. Vielleicht wurde da nicht die lange originale Nuss, sondern irgendeine normale Nuß benutzt, die dann die Stoppfunktion nicht ausüben kann?
KING PIN LOCKING BOLT/NUT
Part # A-3122/24 | Model Year 28-31
Special bolt, nut, and lock washer that locks the spindle bolt in place in the axle. Nut goes on back side of axle and provides the stopping point for the spindle when the wheels are turned.
Hallo und vielen Dank!
Im Endeffekt hatte jemand die Bolzen von der falschen Seite montiert, sodass die Muttern nicht anschlagen konnten. Ich habe die Bolzen umgedreht und jetzt arbeitet alles, wie es soll.
Excellent machine work. Your ratios sound similar to those offered in the Mitchell transmission. BTW, you shouldn’t have to wait to upshift to third. Maybe that was caused the damaged gear teeth?
It's pretty simple: If you shift and the transmission makes a loud noise, it didn't like it. If the shift is quiet, no harm done.
Had I tried to shift it quicker, I'd have ground the gears.
Plus, it'd have worn the input shaft and the inside of 2nd gear, not the outside of 2nd and the cluster gear.
Since the tooth was chipped on the right, it was probably caused by someone that didn't understand downshifting from 3rd into 2nd.
@@AstraWerke You are right. Also, I wonder if your car has lower rear axle gearing than most. I can’t imagine reaching 30mph in second gear with any of my cars with the 3:78 standard ratio.
@@Bbbuddy I don't think so - I've driven a few other Model A's and they all seemed to react about the same
Love the music.
At 8:47 the (black) subtitle works well against the white paper, but the right hand side gets lost against the black background.
You *could* look carefully at the image, and pick a colour that would contrast in both areas (say, blue).
But to avoid hassle, it's easier to just use and outline font - a simple white shadow (in addition to the decorative black shadow) would ensure that the text is always readable, no matter the background.
And I'm sorry your transmission broke.
I usually use outline font - forgot it in this case. Beg your pardon.
@@AstraWerke Not a criticism - meant as a helpful suggestion
Warum kein Overdrive und ein Originalgetriebe? Du kannst ja auch den 2. Gang mit dem OD verlängern. Egal wie, viel Erfolg und tolle Arbeit.
@@marcelgoestoafrica 2 Schalthebel find ich doof. Und meine kardanwelle wollte ich auch nicht zerflexen.
Hi, Super video!
Wenn du mehr Zahnräder herstellen wirst und verkaufen möchtest, bin ich sehr interessiert!
Ich fahre fast jeden Tag mit meinem 30er Tudor zur Arbeit, und viel weiter.
Grüsse aus den Niederlanden!
Joe
I am not an engineer but could the splines be cut off the first motion shaft you made and a new one made to fit in the space made by making the bronze bush smaller. All the best Peter
@@peterkilner512 The bushing diameter isn't the critical section. It's the larger bore up front which the 2nd gear wheel is pushed into for direct drive.
The new splined section would be flush with the new smaller drive gear and may be undercut to provide a stop for the ford 2nd gear .This new splined section could then be slid into the space provded by smaller bush and splined to fix the drive All the best Peter
@@peterkilner512 So you mean making a new input shaft without the spline for direkt drive, spline the inside and make an insert with the direct drive spline that gets pressed into the new input shaft, did I get that right?
@@AstraWerke Not a new first motion shaft you made but cut off 3rd drive splines and make a new part that fits inside the first motion shaft splined to provides the drive for 3rd gear and fits inside the space made by the smaller bronze bush it is replacing your new part driving the layshaft with a part driving 3rd gear All the best Peter
You could locktite the new part in. no heating driving it in as where is it to go All the best Peter
What a great video! I think this concept, in theory is a decent idea. I wonder what the graph looks like with a higher ratio rear end?
Exactly the same, all you need to do is multiply the speed indices (mph) by the percentage that the new ratio is higher than stock.
If you carry on like this, it will become a fully synchromesh gearbox. 😊
What was Ford's actual reason for the arguable factory gear ratios?
No synchros is part of the fun for me.
From what I hear, nearly all 1930s cars suffer from the gap between 2 and 3. Maybe due to the road conditions - or maybe because "that's just the way we all do it".
You should get an overdrive to make it even more confusing shifting. 😂
I can see, veteran car club enthusiasts, coming in droves. To get your specs.
For a gear that cracks in half after 100 miles? ;P
I was thinking of a new inputshaft with a smaller inner bore and fitting a tinner bronse bushing?
That's not the critical diameter. The issue is the larger bore needed for the 2nd gear to fit when engaging direct drive.
@@AstraWerke See the problem much clearer now that I have the 2 shafts and 2nd gear in front of me. I keep on playing with them and try to find a way to solve it. If you want I can send you my spare gearbox so you can drive your car while fixing your problem.(can be there this weekend)
how about fuel consumption after gear modification? How many l/100 km?
The transmission barely lasted 100km, so I can't supply any figures yet.
I believe that your first "gear-shaft cut-gear modification" would have been successful. There's really not a lot of stress on 2nd gear (unlike first), nor is there a lot of long-term wear like 3rd gear. Just my opinion (IMHO) of course but if it was my car (I have a '29 pickup) that's the way that "I" would go.
I thought about it, too. But after being very lucky with where my transmission decided to fail, I decided, not to push my luck and rather think of a sturdier contraption.
@@AstraWerke I'm a physicist, not an engineer/machinist, so I bow to your superior knowledge and expertise. A silly question perhaps but are you using Grade 3 steel as it is a super-high strength steel.
@@joelb740 Well, engine transmissions are a new territory for me, too.
I don't know if it's Grade 3, but I'm using 16MnCr5, an old classic when it comes to gears and transmissions. It's been hardened to 53 Rockwell, which is already pretty tough, my fear is if I go too hard, then I'll wear out the original transmission components which my parts have to cooperate with.
Hi its me again. As a new first motion shaft is to be made why not mahe a new 2nd gear to take the same number of teeth you could them stronger All the best pete.
There's no space. Increase the inside cutout in 2nd and you'll run right into the outside teeth.
Of course, make 2nd larger. Well then you'd need a new cluster gear, too - and all your ratios are messed up. It's a vicious cycle xD
Very good try! I know you can do it. Does a Model A coupe have the same gear ratio as a Model A truck trans? Thank you!
Yes and no. The Model A pickup truck has the same transmission but a different rear end ratio, the Model AA 1.5 ton truck has a 4 speed transmission with an even lower 1st.
2, 3 and 4 on the AA are equivalent to 1, 2, 3 on the A.
HAMMER!!! Darf ich fragen, was Du beruflich machst?
Ich bin im Sondermaschinenbau unterwegs :)
I don't remember an accident? Or are you talking about the engine re-build?
On consideration, will there be hills whereby you cannot get up in 2nd gear and thus be in the same prediciment but with 1st gear instead?
Anyway, a lot of hard work you put into that, well done! But a pity with the outcome, in a way. 1 step forward, and 1 step backwards.
Due to all the many questions about the Model A, I swapped the timeline around a little. More on the accident later.
There may be hills that need to be taken in 1st, but I havent come around any. Maybe if you live in the Alps, but then you'd be better off with the stock transmission anyways.
Or with a different car alltogehter xD
@@AstraWerke I love your work my friend.
Adding synchronizers would have been nice. I've noticed in cars today, the RPM difference between the gears is about 500 RPM. So as you shift, the engine slows down about this number between the different speeds.
Hi have you considered a belcher gear set All the best Peter
They sadly don't make em anymore.
Would you expect similar results from keeping stock transmission gear ratios and going to a 3.5 rear end gear ratio?
It'd make things worse. A faster rear end increases the gaps between gears because it acts as a multiplier. Sure, you can go faster in 2nd, but you'd also have to go much faster to get into 3rd. Might work on a light car (coupe or roadster), but probably alot of struggle for a heavier Tudor or Fordor.
Isn’t it possible to upshift without using the clutch ? If I remember correctly only the revs have to be high enough to do so 🤓
you should but it is still somewhat slow, not like a modern syncro transmission. Plus if the transmission is worn and out of spec it will take even longer.
upshift or downshift?
Upshifting without clutch it's easy, throw it in neutral at the right moment when the gears float. Then let the the engine slow down in refs till the right moment, you can drag the gears very slightly to feel if the speed matches, then throw it in confidently and fast without hesitation (so it doesn't grab half way)
Downshifting is the harder part, because you need to rev up the engine to the correct speed during neutral.
Both can be done nicely with practice, but there is always a risk of damaging your gears if you make a mistake... so do it at your own digression
Good way to wear out your gearbox quickly, but its possible
@@DrTheRich I meant up! Because he’s trying to build up speed uphill but literally can’t because of the shifting itself front second to third
@@AstraWerke seems you can do that even by using the clutch 😜
From the picture if the gears, they are still straight cut. Without spiral gears and synchros, you'll still have to double-clutch, so how is that an improvement on the old"crash-box"?
The goal was to improve the 1st-2nd gearing which was proven successful in principle, if not execution.
xD You're right, might as well LS-swap the darn thing and put an automatic in it while I'm at it
Stick the shaft you had made in there! It will hold better than the pressesd on gear!
You are gear working bad-ass!…
...actually, I was half expecting that there was going to be trouble with that small gear: I'm pretty sure that all that pounding didn't help-(?)
I know I'm late to the party- but I'd like to suggest that you had "the right idea, but the wrong approach"...
Regarding "interference fits" there are TH-cam videos of a machinist in Australia who uses a torch to expand a mating part- and uses liquid nitrogen to shrink the other mating part- and there is a machinist in the U.S. who also uses a torch to expand a mating part, and uses dry ice to shrink the other mating part.
Using these techniques, the mating parts are easily assembled, with little or no pounding.
As for your problem, I wonder if the cracked gear could be laser welded- and you could try again- only this time- chill one part, and heat the small gear before assembling...(?)
Ausgezeichnet ! Perfekt ! Just a. Little more brainwork and you will have it !!
I'm unclear as to why the Ford engineers settled upon the stock gear ratios. When I am instructing new drivers at the museum I explain the transmission operates similar to a four speed which is missing second gear. Ford must have known about this gap in the drive ratio. How do you suppose they arrived at this configuration? Did it serve a purpose other than frustrating the drivers stuck behind me? My 1929 is the same as it came from the assembly line. No modern conveniences or safety mods. It has a twin sister though that does the quarter mile in 13 seconds. Very little Model A left in that one.
It's a common issue on all 30s vehicles, not just Fords.
One could argue it's been designed for the rougher roads, but I wouldn't mind going down a rough road in my modded 2nd.
Others might say that if everyone has the same handicap, no one is handicapped at all... It's definately not a constructive issue - if you design a transmission from the ground up, you can put any set of gears into it and make it work and last fine.
Install a Mitchell Gear Splitter!
@@fredski53 The entire goal of this endeavor was to not have a 2nd gear lever.
@@AstraWerke I have a Mitchell Synchro Transmission, 1st and 2nd ratios are 15% higher than stock and 2nd and 3rd have synchros. IMO, this trans is a better choice the the Mitchell Gear Splitter (altho I have both in my '30 Town Sedan).
I really enjoyed your video tho, great job.
Ich glaub wenn du dass schaffst dann könntest du schon fast einen markt damit aufmachen
Ich glaub da müsste ich meinen erst mal 10 Jahre rigoros testen, dass ich das guten Gewissens an Dritte verkaufen könnte
You might have the lower rear-end gear.
3.78 was standard, I believe, with an ultra 3.54 for highway speed increase and 4.11 for stump pulling ratio (LOTS of hilly areas I’d guess).
@@916commons Thanks for your knowledge. I didn't know the gear ratios offhand.
Most certainly not. It'd reduce top speed significantly.
Why the miles per hour?
I think because it's a Model a but I was confused by that as well.
The speedo is imperial.
He has subscribers in UK & USA, we are mph, and the car would have a speedo face marked the same.
How do you say "Bravo!" in German? Please tell yourself whatever that is!
Thanks!
It remains "Bravo", I think its an italian exclamation.
Your fear about the weakness of your new input shaft is unfounded. The only time that part of the shaft is under load is in third gear.
Well, 3rd gear is what you're driving about in, mostly. Sure, the car is already in motion, but we're still talking about moving a 1 ton vehicle on 2.4mm of wall "thickness". I don't think this'd be a match for a 3.3 litre engine.
@@AstraWerke Make a new shaft with thicker cross-section in that area. Because you have switched to a bushing you could make the hole smaller and use a thinner walled bushing
@@KrashPad The needle bearing bore sadly isnt the weak point. It's the even larger hole right up front where the 2nd gear gets pushed into to engage high. You could machine away the boss from 2nd gear, but that'd make the force path from the teeth to the axle weird, probably resulting in twisting motions that could cause it to pop out of gear, or wear out the output shaft prematurely.
Put in the first shaft you made, and try that.
...that particular shaft is liable to break in two...
Or you could have just moved down the road to Köln where it’s nice and flat 😂 (Unfortunately it’s full of tourists like me)
When i switched to 12 volt the power increase was significant better for driving in 3.gear.I live in Norway and we have a lot of mountain roads.
Funny!
They run well with t5 5-speed borg Warner boxes also. From s10 Chevrolet trucks possibly ford ranger also. Maybe a 6speed from japan would work also . Myself id swap in a 20r ,22re from older Toyota, with a 5speed.
Amongst the videos that TH-cam recommended to watch next after this is one with the title "1930 Model A T5 transmission conversion" - that is completely by coincidence, I am sure of it ... ;-)
You pressed it on too tight possibly.
...one part should have been expanded by heating- and the other part should have been shrunk by chilling- that's a proven technique for making interference fits...