I tried a certain Hardware repair a couple of years ago it didn't work out but I learned a lot I still have the project and I haven't given up quite yet
Sparky, you gave me one of those "Eureka!" moments! I had been trying to figure out why the cable I had run and terminated with RJ45 plugs wasn't working - no lights at all showed up on my tester. I cut the plugs off and installed new ones, with the same result. Were the plugs bad? Was the crimper bad? Was I not squeezing the crimper hard enough? Had I kinked and broken the cable when running it through the attic? Then I watched your video (after having watched several). When you said, "put the spring down", it hit me - I was keeping the spring UP when inserting the wires into the plug, so they ended up in reverse order. Yours was the first video I'd seen where you actually said how to hold the plug when inserting the wires. Other videos showed the plug with the spring down, but I didn't notice they were doing that. I felt like a dummy but was so happy to have discovered the problem. Once I installed new RJ45s with "the spring down", the cable tested just fine. Thanks for a good video!
On doing doing commercial or high end installs, it's not enough to test continuity-plus a bit more that this and similar testers do. The install needs to validate that the cables can work to their expected performance, such as 1G or 10G, and for that you need cable analyzers, which are in the $2k+ range. You give the customer receipts for each run. Seen cat6 cables with links downgraded to 100Mbit due to kinks or abuse in the install, even though continuity was fine.
@@SparkyChannel Back years ago when I was involved in that area more, was working with another contractor and using their gear. Don't remember the brand, but it printed receipt size results of the test, which we'd staple to the install report. I've lusted after the Fluke LIQ with its features, "entry price point" (~$3k), and for it to join my other collection of fluke gear, but haven't been able to justify it.
When measuring length to check a cable in the wall, you would connect a patch cable to the meter and to the jack in the wall. Don't forget to take the length of the patch cable into account. If you're using a 6 ft patch cable and the problem is 6 ft away, the problem is at the jack in the wall, not 6 ft up the wall somewhere.
Personally, love the passthrough connectors for speed and ease. Gone through my share of closed ended connectors that I had to redo due to them not staying square in the end as I crimped. Not suitable for all situations though. If you contaminate the exposed wires, weird things can happen and can be difficult to figure out.
I personally prefer the A pattern on my data terminations, because I can field terminate everything in the A pattern, and if they want to use a jack for voice, they just need to terminate it to the voice side of the demarc, and it is good for two lines without changing the wallplate termination. I also have a different brand of tester, and it's one of the type that never turn clear off, so I have to pull the battery to keep it from draining the battery between uses. it has a set of adaptors, including an alligator clip adaptor, and it has an adjustable capacitance setting, which means I don't just use it to check the distance to damage on data lines, I can test the distance to damage on any cable I know the capacitance of. - including romex.
@@SparkyChannel actually don't remember off the top of my head. I may be an Ideal, but long since discontinued. I've been using it for over 16 years, now.
Klein, Ideal and Fluke compete heavily in this field. With the advent and increased use of PoE, I feel that electricians should become proficient in networking with PoE. What do you think? Also, I love my Klein Scout 3 because it's so handy for field testing of these network cables and PoE voltages.
@@SparkyChannel I haven't done anything with PoE. what I'm seeing is more and more homes and small businesses that use high end wireless systems. but it's good for an electrician to know how to build infrastructure, even if they only do it once in a blue moon.
How can I identify if my jr45 jacks in my new home are set to T568A or T568B. I took a picture of one of them, but I can't tell anything from the picture. I ask this because I may have to re-do all of them (about 8 or 10) and I don't know how much spare ethernet cable I will have inside the wall. If it is not much, I have to be very careful when I wire the cables with a new and better jr45. Thank you.
Here's a question for you maybe you can make a video on it. Just had the situation happen here at the home electrical costly issue. Actually still kind of guessing what happened. The home was built in the 1920s. Wiring it's still mostly 1970 code but in the late 90s had a circuit breaker installed. Not all receptacles had been rewired to be grounded receptacles. They're not even marked. But in some parts of the house new receptacles were installed wired in and they are grounded. So in some rooms you'll have not grounded three prong receptacles along with grounded receptacles. So now you understand that. And you add in or stir in ignorance of the situation of this evidence. You have a computer and a TV in a room where it's in the corner on a desk where the receptacle on the left is grounded and new and the receptacle on the right is old and not grounded. In fact I can't remember the last time it was ever pulled out of the wall maybe never for decades. With ignorance both plugs had surge protectors attached to them. Computer was mostly plugged into the new grounded receptacle other devices that didn't need ground or plugged into the other non grounded receptacle in its surge protector. Purely by luck. A old display was brought in and connected to the computer plugged in to the surge protector that is also plugged into the not grounded receptacle. Remind you the display is a grounded display.. also remind you computers and receivers and TVs are designed supposedly for you to plug in HDMI while they're on and not have a problem. Wrong in this situation soon as they display plug was connected to the computer electric shock top noise happened fried the video card and the display. They're both at the shop and actually burnt to video cards not understanding the situation and I'm assuming with this information I gave you. I think the problem is that a surge protector with grounded options was plugged into the ungrounded receptacle not knowing that's going to be an issue. Well that display getting electricity from that non-grounded receptacle also connected to a computer that is using a rounded receptacle. I'm assuming if the ungrounded surge protector and display head dirty grounded electricity this is what caused the pop and issue. Just trying to understand the situation don't want this happen again already cost about $1,000 in computer damage
Surge protection will work on a two-wire ungrounded outlet by preventing a voltage surge between the two conductors. But if the surge occurs due to lighting, the damage might be inevitable, as the path to the ground is not local, i.e., the ground connection might be quite a distance from where the actual surge protector is located, and lighting always seeks the shortest route to the ground. In a nutshell, surge protection on ungrounded outlets may work for power surges caused by switching operations upstream but be less effective if the surge occurs by lighting nearby, including common mode surges. Remember that ungrounded surge protectors won’t provide the protection you expect.
Shalom from the Ohio Valley 🙏 How do I find my clean out drain? I think I have critters living in my drain at the street Last night I smelled a skunk and it smelled like it was inside my house!
I tried a certain Hardware repair a couple of years ago it didn't work out but I learned a lot I still have the project and I haven't given up quite yet
Sounds good!
Nice demo of the Klein Scout 3 Ethernet cable tester. Great to be able to test without trying to ohm out each pin.
It's really a nice tester. You can test out each pair with it as well.
Thankyou for your support
No problem, thanks!
Sparky, you gave me one of those "Eureka!" moments! I had been trying to figure out why the cable I had run and terminated with RJ45 plugs wasn't working - no lights at all showed up on my tester. I cut the plugs off and installed new ones, with the same result. Were the plugs bad? Was the crimper bad? Was I not squeezing the crimper hard enough? Had I kinked and broken the cable when running it through the attic? Then I watched your video (after having watched several). When you said, "put the spring down", it hit me - I was keeping the spring UP when inserting the wires into the plug, so they ended up in reverse order. Yours was the first video I'd seen where you actually said how to hold the plug when inserting the wires. Other videos showed the plug with the spring down, but I didn't notice they were doing that. I felt like a dummy but was so happy to have discovered the problem. Once I installed new RJ45s with "the spring down", the cable tested just fine. Thanks for a good video!
Thanks, Bill! Nice demo and very good information.
No problem, thanks Tim!
On doing doing commercial or high end installs, it's not enough to test continuity-plus a bit more that this and similar testers do. The install needs to validate that the cables can work to their expected performance, such as 1G or 10G, and for that you need cable analyzers, which are in the $2k+ range. You give the customer receipts for each run. Seen cat6 cables with links downgraded to 100Mbit due to kinks or abuse in the install, even though continuity was fine.
That's a great point. What brand cable analyzer do you use?
@@SparkyChannel Back years ago when I was involved in that area more, was working with another contractor and using their gear. Don't remember the brand, but it printed receipt size results of the test, which we'd staple to the install report. I've lusted after the Fluke LIQ with its features, "entry price point" (~$3k), and for it to join my other collection of fluke gear, but haven't been able to justify it.
When measuring length to check a cable in the wall, you would connect a patch cable to the meter and to the jack in the wall. Don't forget to take the length of the patch cable into account. If you're using a 6 ft patch cable and the problem is 6 ft away, the problem is at the jack in the wall, not 6 ft up the wall somewhere.
Interesting Sparky. Great video.
Thanks Gary!
Good Morning Bill 😎⚒️😎⚒️😎
Good morning Ted! ⚡
I use a metal cat5 plug that allows the wires all the way through then cut them flush at the tip
Interesting, thanks!
Please tell me which one is better!? Klein tools scout pro 3. OR
Fluke networks microscaner 2. ??????!!!
Personally, love the passthrough connectors for speed and ease. Gone through my share of closed ended connectors that I had to redo due to them not staying square in the end as I crimped. Not suitable for all situations though. If you contaminate the exposed wires, weird things can happen and can be difficult to figure out.
Excellent points, thanks!
Great video.
Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Wow interesting
Thanks!
I personally prefer the A pattern on my data terminations, because I can field terminate everything in the A pattern, and if they want to use a jack for voice, they just need to terminate it to the voice side of the demarc, and it is good for two lines without changing the wallplate termination.
I also have a different brand of tester, and it's one of the type that never turn clear off, so I have to pull the battery to keep it from draining the battery between uses. it has a set of adaptors, including an alligator clip adaptor, and it has an adjustable capacitance setting, which means I don't just use it to check the distance to damage on data lines, I can test the distance to damage on any cable I know the capacitance of. - including romex.
What brand of tester do you use?
@@SparkyChannel actually don't remember off the top of my head. I may be an Ideal, but long since discontinued. I've been using it for over 16 years, now.
Klein, Ideal and Fluke compete heavily in this field. With the advent and increased use of PoE, I feel that electricians should become proficient in networking with PoE. What do you think?
Also, I love my Klein Scout 3 because it's so handy for field testing of these network cables and PoE voltages.
@@SparkyChannel I haven't done anything with PoE. what I'm seeing is more and more homes and small businesses that use high end wireless systems. but it's good for an electrician to know how to build infrastructure, even if they only do it once in a blue moon.
@@kenbrown2808 I agree. PoE security systems are superior to wireless though, IMO.
Nice video, but I see you are using two different Scout Pro 3 units.... One has PoE testing and one does not.
Thank you
How can I identify if my jr45 jacks in my new home are set to T568A or T568B. I took a picture of one of them, but I can't tell anything from the picture. I ask this because I may have to re-do all of them (about 8 or 10) and I don't know how much spare ethernet cable I will have inside the wall. If it is not much, I have to be very careful when I wire the cables with a new and better jr45. Thank you.
99% your home is T568B
Hi, what happens when cable looks good and #3,4,5,6 blinks but the order line is ok, and 1,2,7,8 are steady?
I keep getting the same split error even though the order is perfect.
Hi sparky George once agin from fountain valley cal
Do u have any advice or recommendations a certain Megger thanks ✌️
Fluke.
Fluke 1507 Insulation Tester, 0.01 MegOhms to 10 GigOhms: Amazon: amzn.to/3J8BFV6
Thanks
Welcome!
Hey Bill
Hey!
@@SparkyChannel how are you
@@jeremynguyen2346 good, thanks!
@@SparkyChannel what are you doing this summer
Here's a question for you maybe you can make a video on it. Just had the situation happen here at the home electrical costly issue. Actually still kind of guessing what happened. The home was built in the 1920s. Wiring it's still mostly 1970 code but in the late 90s had a circuit breaker installed. Not all receptacles had been rewired to be grounded receptacles. They're not even marked. But in some parts of the house new receptacles were installed wired in and they are grounded. So in some rooms you'll have not grounded three prong receptacles along with grounded receptacles. So now you understand that. And you add in or stir in ignorance of the situation of this evidence. You have a computer and a TV in a room where it's in the corner on a desk where the receptacle on the left is grounded and new and the receptacle on the right is old and not grounded. In fact I can't remember the last time it was ever pulled out of the wall maybe never for decades. With ignorance both plugs had surge protectors attached to them. Computer was mostly plugged into the new grounded receptacle other devices that didn't need ground or plugged into the other non grounded receptacle in its surge protector. Purely by luck. A old display was brought in and connected to the computer plugged in to the surge protector that is also plugged into the not grounded receptacle. Remind you the display is a grounded display.. also remind you computers and receivers and TVs are designed supposedly for you to plug in HDMI while they're on and not have a problem. Wrong in this situation soon as they display plug was connected to the computer electric shock top noise happened fried the video card and the display. They're both at the shop and actually burnt to video cards not understanding the situation and I'm assuming with this information I gave you. I think the problem is that a surge protector with grounded options was plugged into the ungrounded receptacle not knowing that's going to be an issue. Well that display getting electricity from that non-grounded receptacle also connected to a computer that is using a rounded receptacle. I'm assuming if the ungrounded surge protector and display head dirty grounded electricity this is what caused the pop and issue. Just trying to understand the situation don't want this happen again already cost about $1,000 in computer damage
Surge protection will work on a two-wire ungrounded outlet by preventing a voltage surge between the two conductors. But if the surge occurs due to lighting, the damage might be inevitable, as the path to the ground is not local, i.e., the ground connection might be quite a distance from where the actual surge protector is located, and lighting always seeks the shortest route to the ground.
In a nutshell, surge protection on ungrounded outlets may work for power surges caused by switching operations upstream but be less effective if the surge occurs by lighting nearby, including common mode surges.
Remember that ungrounded surge protectors won’t provide the protection you expect.
I have that same crimper
Excellent!
Shalom from the Ohio Valley 🙏
How do I find my clean out drain?
I think I have critters living in my drain at the street
Last night I smelled a skunk and it smelled like it was inside my house!
Hello everyone 🖐⚡
Hi Charles!