Cheers mate, I’m doing an electrical pre trade and had to do this in class. I was struggling to follow the diagram my teacher drew up but this is significantly easier to follow
mate im Australian I have been struggling through my pre apprenticeship and this 11min video explains switching so much better then my 5hr long classes.. THANKS MATE
There is a much easier way that only needs two wires. You really shouldn't be using the loop terminal for joining earth wires, it is single screw, and all earth wire terminations like that should really be double screw. Obviously it'll work just fine.
Will you able to do a video for 2 way light switch with led push button? So when light off, both led light switch will light on all the time. Good video by the way.
I just did a wire up of a 2 way with a push button LED clipsal unit (pwb30). There are two strands on the mech to supple a load and a neutral to the LED. On the master 2 way you wire it up as normal and have one LED strand go with the neutral (best to use the loop terminal here) and then the second LED strand goes with the wires into terminal 2, that’s the load. The slave 2 way is a bit harder as you won’t have a neutral as part of your wiring, so you either have to borrow it from somewhere (I shared one from an adjacent 1 way switch) or you have to run a neutral line back to your master. The Clipsal LEDs have 4 different illumination modes (none, on when switch is on, on all the time, on when switch is off) But you need neutrals for any of these LED switches (either push button or electronic) or the LED won’t work.
Hi Dave, Iam just a little confuse with the TPS yellow cable Red Blue white. Do they have Live , Neutral and Earth? which one represent which one? Also can we replace by a normal light cable red green black? thx pat
Thanks Dave! You've helped a shit-tonne. Check out my music and if you dig it shoot me some requests and I'll do a video for ya as a thank-you. You've been a bit of a life-saver so happy to do something back for you! Thanks mate!
I keep expecting to find a sparky going off his nana in the comments about how it's illegal blah blah blah. If you're confident the wires are in the right spot and you've terminated them correctly you're pretty well good. After a pull test of course, gotta make sure its not flapping around ready to start a fire.
@@russelsprout2155 while I have no definitive answer... it was shared with me some time ago that the load or master (???) feed to the first switch was standard TPS but it was practice to use the yellow for the subsequent feed(s)... since there is no grounding on the yellow it also identifies that wire as NOT the main switch wire... just sharing as, again, I have no other reason or documentation to say one way or the other is better... in the long run I can find no reference to say one way is better or worse than the other...
Awesome videos mate! Answered a lot of my questions. Would you happen to be making one for bathroom heat/fan/light units installation? Those always do my head in!
To see a switch that is the same here in Oz your vid was a welcome sight amongst all the international content on youtube. Your instruction was easy to follow and did not treat the listener like an idiot and dead set you got me out of trouble. Thanks for the post. Worth my subscription and cheers.
Thanks sparky Dave. You're a great teacher! Don't suppose you could do a vid on wiring a dimmer switch, better still a dimmer with a 2 way? Couldn't find anything from this end of the world so might be popular. Again many thanks for your vids!
Fantastic information. You wont find any youtube channel showing these expert how tos. Living in oz..these methods are mostly if not all the same here..so very revelant. I applaud you for posting these vids. I am not a sparky by trade but have been doing my own electrical work in my own home. Yes i know its not legal here in Oz but having an expert like you showing us all how to do it properly very little can go wrong..if those are not comfortable working with electricity then dont touch it. Leave it to the pro. I think the laws in NZ are different regarding home wiring compared to OZ. I personally think its a better law and gives its citizens the choice. We all should be able to fix things ourselves provided we have the necessary skill set and know how...even if we dont have a trade certificate in the field. There are many tradies out there who potentially do more harm than good to your property. Builders...plumbers..tilers.alike.my god.. i have so many friends and relatives who have their own horror stories to speak of. Just do a google my business search on any trade and you will read bad and good reviews on any trade. Its the bad ones which prove my point. Learning these skills from an expert like dave is priceless.
Dude ABSOLUTELY! I'm a plasterer by trade and do my own electrical, plumbing, framing, lockup work. The government should not be dictating what work you do on your own property. Their job is to dictate how we TRADE with each other, that's it. And the purpose of them is to make trading fair and safe, but it's a bloody nanny nation here in OZ. Especially where I am in VIC..
But it's possible to make a major booboo where u don't expect to and if the installation is not properly tested it'll either kill someone or burn down your house.
@@johnnycash4034 luckily for me i have the confidence and the ability to follow the rules. Some people either have it or not. Sadly for those who dont..it will cost them plenty. I do all my own work...from plumbing carpentry and all electrical including roofing and tiling. Sometimes even better than tradesmen themselves. I cannot accept nor justify paying for eg...$35000 do a bathroom renovation ( labour only ) its simply highway robbery. I could do the same job for under $1000 for the fitout not including the choice of vanity..toilet..shower screen..and bathtub. Remember these are costs in addition to the $35000 they quoted. Honestly even a teenager can do a demolition job..ripping out the old in quick time...re positioning the plumbing is a piece of cake for me at least..pex piping is a breeze to install...cement sheeting or villaboard costs peanuts...drywall is also cheap as chips..plus cornicing..waterproofing is a breeze to do..and acquiring a laser or renting one for your tiling is easy as. I do all the screeding..laying and cutting of the tiles..using adhesive which other tilers tell me is overkill..i normally go way above the min due to the huge cost savings i make doing the work myself.. I have done many already for relatives as well...literally saving them a fortune. The same job in a more lucrative area of Sydney can cost $55000. Anyway good luck to all who can do this and other jobs themselves.
In the ECP 51 - New Zealand Electrical Code of Practice for Homeowner/Occupier's Electrical Wiring Work in Domestic Installations (NZECP 51:2004) on pg 23 it shows the feed into C, the red and white of the strap to 1 and 2 of each switch and blue from strap at second switch to the phase of light. Same outcome but which is the correct way in NZ @t
Thats the way I always do it in Australia. Usually I never have three core lying around. So I use twin core red/white and a single core to do the same, with the single core red acting as the blue.
The cable inside is the same, so not really “3 actives” but rather different jacket colours on the inside insulation that your standard twin + earth. In Aus we use twin (comes with a white and red) and SDI (which is single wire double insulated) and is jacketed in a magenta/red. I just use the twin colours as per this video and then use blue heat shrink or tape on the SDI so you have a blue strand (beats having too many reds).
Am I correct in saying to add a dimmer to a two way switch ; only one per circuit ; the two wires coming out of the dimmer are placed , one into C terminal and one into the LOOP terminal ? ( in Aust the dimmer is a delta x6 universal light dimmer 6180b)
I will put the dimmer inline of either the live input wire (come from the fuse box) or the output live wire to the light. Both of the options are at the first switch in this video. The dimmer is like a variable resistor. So I think put it inline of the neutral wire is also fine, which is easier for you to locate the wire. P.s. I'm not an electrician.
@Paul Jameson thanks for replying. I meant he can put the dimmer inline of neutral if he's going to wire exactly as in this video, but preferably put dimmer inline of phase wire as people usually put dimmer in live wire rather than neutral (is it ANZ standard?) although technically they should function same in my mind, as an electronic engineer. Always putting the switch inline of phase wires is the principal rule for safety reasons. I think what I said in the first paragraph should be correct. Do you agree? Haha.😄
The wiring in this video is not quite straightforward to demonstrate 2 way switches. I would joint the Neutral and Earth directly to the cable (blue and green) to the light socket neutral and earth holes respectively, connect Live to C at the first switch, use another 3 core cable to connect the 2 switches, L1 to L1, L2 to L2, connect C of the 2nd switch to Live wire (brown) of the cable to light socket. Label or tape all these 3 core wires as Hot (red or brown tape). If add a dimmer, I would put dimmer at the last joint, i.e. connect the hot wire from C of the 2nd switch to one leg of the dimmer and connect the other leg to the hot wire to the light socket. What do you think?
@Paul Jameson both you and me have been replying to the commenter, are we? He wants to add a dimmer to the 2 way switches and asked how to wire the dimmer.
@Paul Jameson I don't think he was going to change his lighting but asked a question. Anyway you already clearly told him the details. BTW, you said to tie all neutral together, which I would not agree. If you don't use RCD, it would be fine and nice, but when RCD is used, the neutral needs to go along its own phase wire, can you still tie all neutral together?
Thanks Dave Great show. I had a bit of fun with the accent (Here is the kettle calling the pot black! I'm European.) Yes even the CC picked it up and kept showing "The Read"wire and even had more problem with the "batten box" ha ha - I seem to have heard this on my 2002 NZ trip, could I be right? (And did they had fun with the Aussies!) Anyway this is a very practical presentation. Thank you. I just wish I did not have a narrow two gangs switch to work with and some 15 wires behind it, stiff ones too! But in the end all good! Really when one understands that Switches are never off but go to L1 or L2, It makes a lot of sense to get the two ways working. More thanx to your three ways and illuminated switch (here I wanted it for my two ways switches to the outside light to remind me to switch it off (My old neon that worked so well in it died) Not so lucky on that one... :)
Hey mate great video cheers for the info, I have a question : I want to run one wallplate switch and an additional WiFi controller to turn on flood lights, I use Deta grid connect, specifically I want to use the deta wired Inline switch, I have a circuit in mind although I'd like to see what you would suggest?. The reason I want to run this configuration is because the flood lights are attached to my exterior double garage and the switch for them is locked away inside the garage so I would like to use voice control to turn them on for security reasons while retaining the interior switch. Cheers Dave.
I struggled for months with this as I only tried to learn in theory how this is set up, it wasn't until I set up a practical example like yours that I was able to get this working. You break down complex diagrams so well and now I have a fully functional 2 way switch in my garage. You legend !
I thought the loop-in was always done at the light,not the switch? or is it only allowed at switch when 2way'ing ? or did they change it in ASNZ3000 as to the preferred loop in at switch, or does it not matter at all? Bloody nice explanation though :)
There’s two way of roughing in, looping at the light and looping at the switch. What he did was having the feed from board to the switch, which is looping at the switch.
@@Ray-tf2ps In the ECP 51 - New Zealand Electrical Code of Practice for Homeowner/Occupier's Electrical Wiring Work in Domestic Installations (NZECP 51:2004) on pg 23 it shows the feed into C, the red and white of the strap to 1 and 2 of each switch and blue from strap at second switch to the phase of light. Same outcome but which is the correct way in NZ www.worksafe.govt.nz/dmsdocument/1580-new-zealand-electrical-code-of-practice-for-homeowneroccupiers-electrical-wiring-work-in-domestic-installations-nzecp-51-2004
After you have done the 2 way switch how would you then feed of that back to a 1 way switch? I thought a feed wire from no 1 to the c on the 1 way switch then a wire from the no 1 on the one way switch to bulb wood work. But it doesn’t work. Thou the 2 way switch works perfectly
Absolute legend, took my power switches out for painting and got confused with 2 way switch wiring when re-installing. This video got it all sorted. Thanks
I once replaced a failed switch that was one of a two-way, I found two diagrams for guidance; one labelled 'preferred' and another 'alternate'. Existing wiring was the 'preferred' type and easy to understand - just two wires between the switches and only a single wire in each common (no twisting different wires together). The alternate method was more complicated and needed three wires between the switches, I wondered why anyone would do that. This video shows a slight variation of that alternate method and I can see why it might be done now - with this method you can add the second switch at any time without having to touch the existing wires at the lamp fitting. With the easier method live goes through both switches to the lamp and return/neutral from there - so as well as wiring the switches together you'd also have to divert a wire from the lamp fitting to the new switch, if I'm not mistaken. Glad to finally understand that after all these years.
How do you Earth the other light switch? That’s if you was to use a metallic light switch, Asking from the UK so not sure if you even have metallic ones, we use 3 core and earth Good videos 👍🏼
Hi Dave, I have a question. Im a student doing my electrical pre-trade, and in class, we learnt that to connect a 2 way switch we wire C-C and 1-1,2-2 or even crisscross 1-2,2-1. My teacher said there are different ways to do it of course, but i am wondering why you do it this particular way, is there a specific reason? or is this just your personal preferred?
Brilliant video - thanks mate - I'm from the UK and now living here in NZ - I was quite familiar with two way switching there but could not figure out how you did it over here. Completely different in the UK where power comes from the board to the bayonet fitting and then out to the switch, and on to the 2way switch via 3 core and earth. (the next light in the next room then daisy chains off the first bayonet fitting)
There is nothing stpping you wiring it that way in Australia/NZ ether, its called looped at the light rather than looped at the switch. UK electricians are comming around to doing it our way lately. Mainly because walls are more often hollow and easy to get cables down, the advent of downlights and just the fact that the majority of your electrical work is at an easy level at switch height!
Cheers mate, I’m doing an electrical pre trade and had to do this in class. I was struggling to follow the diagram my teacher drew up but this is significantly easier to follow
mate im Australian I have been struggling through my pre apprenticeship and this 11min video explains switching so much better then my 5hr long classes.. THANKS MATE
Thank you Thank you. yours was the most clear and simple instructions and it worked! good times
Best instruction I have ever seen on a trickle subject
Beautiful video my brother. I will be following all your videos. Kiakaha ehoa tena koe
Thanks you much for the help two way switch you’re great teacher
Is that 2nd switch wire yellow to show to other sparkies that the wire is for a second switch and there is no neutral connector there?
Great video 🤙
Hey Dave, appreciate your videos. Could you show us how to wire a plug base?
Lee Ah that’s super easy, earth to the green, live to the red, neutral to the blue/black. Any other questions specifically?
Literally the same as the batten holder he did in the video
Awesome, great job
Thank helped me to understand. Muchas gracias!
Very well explanation without any boring self promotion . The screwdriver doesn't match the accent ? Lol
There is a much easier way that only needs two wires.
You really shouldn't be using the loop terminal for joining earth wires, it is single screw, and all earth wire terminations like that should really be double screw. Obviously it'll work just fine.
Will you able to do a video for 2 way light switch with led push button? So when light off, both led light switch will light on all the time. Good video by the way.
Yep I defo plan on getting the gear once the lockdown in NZ ends, will be doing 2 and 3 way vids for push button dimmers at some point in the future
@@sparkydave thanks Dave looking forward to it. Stay safe
I just did a wire up of a 2 way with a push button LED clipsal unit (pwb30).
There are two strands on the mech to supple a load and a neutral to the LED.
On the master 2 way you wire it up as normal and have one LED strand go with the neutral (best to use the loop terminal here) and then the second LED strand goes with the wires into terminal 2, that’s the load.
The slave 2 way is a bit harder as you won’t have a neutral as part of your wiring, so you either have to borrow it from somewhere (I shared one from an adjacent 1 way switch) or you have to run a neutral line back to your master.
The Clipsal LEDs have 4 different illumination modes (none, on when switch is on, on all the time, on when switch is off)
But you need neutrals for any of these LED switches (either push button or electronic) or the LED won’t work.
@@w2ttsy670 Thanks you so much
@@w2ttsy670 any videos showing this, thanks...?
In aus we usually use straps (twin) between the two switches. With a Sdi from the second switch to the light.
What's an sdi?
@@johnnycash4034 it’s a cable with just one conductor.
@@johnnycash4034 it stands for single double insulated. Single core, with two layers of insulation
In the states we wld have feed to switch 3core to light another 3core from light to other switch save a piece of wire too
If you wanted to add additional lights to this 2-way switching circuit, would you just daisy chain the additional lights from the first batten holder?
This is what I would also like to know
Thanks you so much. Help me a lot.
Thank you for the video
Hi Dave, Iam just a little confuse with the TPS yellow cable Red Blue white. Do they have Live , Neutral and Earth? which one represent which one? Also can we replace by a normal light cable red green black? thx pat
hey dave, how to wire single dimmer meg??
Good one
nice
Thanks Dave! You've helped a shit-tonne. Check out my music and if you dig it shoot me some requests and I'll do a video for ya as a thank-you. You've been a bit of a life-saver so happy to do something back for you! Thanks mate!
I keep expecting to find a sparky going off his nana in the comments about how it's illegal blah blah blah. If you're confident the wires are in the right spot and you've terminated them correctly you're pretty well good. After a pull test of course, gotta make sure its not flapping around ready to start a fire.
Thumb up
having the wrong colour cables makes it extra confusing
I got headaches 😢
Bro why couldn't you just use all the same cables with same colour cores 😅😅🤣
Because of the ground... it is green in all cases and but NOT used on the second switch...
@@NZRic001 yeah but why not just use the same style 1.5mm TPS for both cables in the video
@@russelsprout2155 while I have no definitive answer... it was shared with me some time ago that the load or master (???) feed to the first switch was standard TPS but it was practice to use the yellow for the subsequent feed(s)... since there is no grounding on the yellow it also identifies that wire as NOT the main switch wire... just sharing as, again, I have no other reason or documentation to say one way or the other is better... in the long run I can find no reference to say one way is better or worse than the other...
@@NZRic001 I understand he's using it as a strap. Just a switch wire. That's why the colors aren't important. There's an easier way to do this though
Awesome videos mate! Answered a lot of my questions. Would you happen to be making one for bathroom heat/fan/light units installation? Those always do my head in!
To see a switch that is the same here in Oz your vid was a welcome sight amongst all the international content on youtube. Your instruction was easy to follow and did not treat the listener like an idiot and dead set you got me out of trouble. Thanks for the post. Worth my subscription and cheers.
Thanks sparky Dave. You're a great teacher! Don't suppose you could do a vid on wiring a dimmer switch, better still a dimmer with a 2 way? Couldn't find anything from this end of the world so might be popular. Again many thanks for your vids!
Awesome video. Your videos are straight to the point and informative. Great job - please keep them coming.
Fantastic information. You wont find any youtube channel showing these expert how tos. Living in oz..these methods are mostly if not all the same here..so very revelant. I applaud you for posting these vids. I am not a sparky by trade but have been doing my own electrical work in my own home. Yes i know its not legal here in Oz but having an expert like you showing us all how to do it properly very little can go wrong..if those are not comfortable working with electricity then dont touch it. Leave it to the pro. I think the laws in NZ are different regarding home wiring compared to OZ. I personally think its a better law and gives its citizens the choice. We all should be able to fix things ourselves provided we have the necessary skill set and know how...even if we dont have a trade certificate in the field. There are many tradies out there who potentially do more harm than good to your property. Builders...plumbers..tilers.alike.my god.. i have so many friends and relatives who have their own horror stories to speak of. Just do a google my business search on any trade and you will read bad and good reviews on any trade. Its the bad ones which prove my point. Learning these skills from an expert like dave is priceless.
Dude ABSOLUTELY! I'm a plasterer by trade and do my own electrical, plumbing, framing, lockup work. The government should not be dictating what work you do on your own property. Their job is to dictate how we TRADE with each other, that's it. And the purpose of them is to make trading fair and safe, but it's a bloody nanny nation here in OZ. Especially where I am in VIC..
But it's possible to make a major booboo where u don't expect to and if the installation is not properly tested it'll either kill someone or burn down your house.
@@johnnycash4034 very true...only attempt any electrical work if you are confident...like myself.
@@dombarton2483 confidence is one thing. Following the installation rules that were created for a reason is another.
@@johnnycash4034 luckily for me i have the confidence and the ability to follow the rules. Some people either have it or not. Sadly for those who dont..it will cost them plenty. I do all my own work...from plumbing carpentry and all electrical including roofing and tiling. Sometimes even better than tradesmen themselves. I cannot accept nor justify paying for eg...$35000 do a bathroom renovation ( labour only ) its simply highway robbery. I could do the same job for under $1000 for the fitout not including the choice of vanity..toilet..shower screen..and bathtub. Remember these are costs in addition to the $35000 they quoted. Honestly even a teenager can do a demolition job..ripping out the old in quick time...re positioning the plumbing is a piece of cake for me at least..pex piping is a breeze to install...cement sheeting or villaboard costs peanuts...drywall is also cheap as chips..plus cornicing..waterproofing is a breeze to do..and acquiring a laser or renting one for your tiling is easy as. I do all the screeding..laying and cutting of the tiles..using adhesive which other tilers tell me is overkill..i normally go way above the min due to the huge cost savings i make doing the work myself.. I have done many already for relatives as well...literally saving them a fortune. The same job in a more lucrative area of Sydney can cost $55000. Anyway good luck to all who can do this and other jobs themselves.
Mate, ur make very good videos. Keep them coming!
Mate your a legend not only have you saved me hundreds of dollarydoos but iv learnt something and enjoyed some pure NZ accent doing it
Awesome video. Can you explain how to remove 2x 2-way switches and only have a single switch to control the lights? Thanks
very informative. chur
In the ECP 51 - New Zealand Electrical Code of Practice for Homeowner/Occupier's Electrical Wiring Work in Domestic Installations (NZECP 51:2004) on pg 23 it shows the feed into C, the red and white of the strap to 1 and 2 of each switch and blue from strap at second switch to the phase of light. Same outcome but which is the correct way in NZ @t
Thats the way I always do it in Australia. Usually I never have three core lying around. So I use twin core red/white and a single core to do the same, with the single core red acting as the blue.
Thanks mate, easy to follow. Always had issues with the two way switching but sorted now.
It will be easier if you can provide a diagram explaining the wiring etc. thanks anyway very good demonstration
Ahhh yes a written diagram would be great
thank you buddy
very useful video
i love the way you tutors
Is it possible to have 2 lights wired up this way?
Thanks for the video mate. I was stark on this yesterday. Now I know.
Thanks
Must be invented by a very smart person.
what is white wire here for any anwers please
Thanks. Just saved me $$$
White cable represent what?
So is that TPS cable that goes to the second switch (the red white blue) 3 different actives? What else could you use?
The cable inside is the same, so not really “3 actives” but rather different jacket colours on the inside insulation that your standard twin + earth.
In Aus we use twin (comes with a white and red) and SDI (which is single wire double insulated) and is jacketed in a magenta/red.
I just use the twin colours as per this video and then use blue heat shrink or tape on the SDI so you have a blue strand (beats having too many reds).
Big help cheers
Thanks a lot ..
Excellent video..thank you
thanks mate very helpful
🇵🇬,.,.
Am I correct in saying to add a dimmer to a two way switch ; only one per circuit ; the two wires coming out of the dimmer are placed , one into C terminal and one into the LOOP terminal ? ( in Aust the dimmer is a delta x6 universal light dimmer 6180b)
I will put the dimmer inline of either the live input wire (come from the fuse box) or the output live wire to the light. Both of the options are at the first switch in this video.
The dimmer is like a variable resistor. So I think put it inline of the neutral wire is also fine, which is easier for you to locate the wire.
P.s. I'm not an electrician.
@Paul Jameson thanks for replying. I meant he can put the dimmer inline of neutral if he's going to wire exactly as in this video, but preferably put dimmer inline of phase wire as people usually put dimmer in live wire rather than neutral (is it ANZ standard?) although technically they should function same in my mind, as an electronic engineer.
Always putting the switch inline of phase wires is the principal rule for safety reasons.
I think what I said in the first paragraph should be correct. Do you agree? Haha.😄
The wiring in this video is not quite straightforward to demonstrate 2 way switches.
I would joint the Neutral and Earth directly to the cable (blue and green) to the light socket neutral and earth holes respectively, connect Live to C at the first switch, use another 3 core cable to connect the 2 switches, L1 to L1, L2 to L2, connect C of the 2nd switch to Live wire (brown) of the cable to light socket. Label or tape all these 3 core wires as Hot (red or brown tape).
If add a dimmer, I would put dimmer at the last joint, i.e. connect the hot wire from C of the 2nd switch to one leg of the dimmer and connect the other leg to the hot wire to the light socket.
What do you think?
@Paul Jameson both you and me have been replying to the commenter, are we?
He wants to add a dimmer to the 2 way switches and asked how to wire the dimmer.
@Paul Jameson I don't think he was going to change his lighting but asked a question. Anyway you already clearly told him the details.
BTW, you said to tie all neutral together, which I would not agree. If you don't use RCD, it would be fine and nice, but when RCD is used, the neutral needs to go along its own phase wire, can you still tie all neutral together?
Thanks Dave Great show. I had a bit of fun with the accent (Here is the kettle calling the pot black! I'm European.) Yes even the CC picked it up and kept showing "The Read"wire and even had more problem with the "batten box" ha ha - I seem to have heard this on my 2002 NZ trip, could I be right? (And did they had fun with the Aussies!)
Anyway this is a very practical presentation. Thank you. I just wish I did not have a narrow two gangs switch to work with and some 15 wires behind it, stiff ones too! But in the end all good!
Really when one understands that Switches are never off but go to L1 or L2, It makes a lot of sense to get the two ways working. More thanx to your three ways and illuminated switch (here I wanted it for my two ways switches to the outside light to remind me to switch it off (My old neon that worked so well in it died) Not so lucky on that one... :)
Hey mate great video cheers for the info, I have a question : I want to run one wallplate switch and an additional WiFi controller to turn on flood lights, I use Deta grid connect, specifically I want to use the deta wired Inline switch, I have a circuit in mind although I'd like to see what you would suggest?. The reason I want to run this configuration is because the flood lights are attached to my exterior double garage and the switch for them is locked away inside the garage so I would like to use voice control to turn them on for security reasons while retaining the interior switch. Cheers Dave.
Yea, Thats called a 3 way using 2 3 way switches
Illogical Americans call them 3way.
I struggled for months with this as I only tried to learn in theory how this is set up, it wasn't until I set up a practical example like yours that I was able to get this working.
You break down complex diagrams so well and now I have a fully functional 2 way switch in my garage. You legend !
Bugger me who could follow that bro can you do a proper video with correct colours all I've got is neutral red and black
Good video! handy to know!
Cheers Sparkydave, your videos are awesome, well explained and have helped me a lot. Thanks so much 🍻
There's an easier way you put the feed from board in a connector with red from strap cable then put red of strap to common second switch
Bula bro...Thanks for the tutorial...Your explanation using the diagram and material was very helpful for me.
Great job! Very clean and simple explanation.
Are able to upload another video showing or adding a PIR to this setup? Cheers
Simply splendid! A kiwi sparky with an American screwdriver 😊
Hey mate can you use the same wire instead of getting the extra yellow sheathed one?
I thought the loop-in was always done at the light,not the switch? or is it only allowed at switch when 2way'ing ? or did they change it in ASNZ3000 as to the preferred loop in at switch, or does it not matter at all?
Bloody nice explanation though :)
There’s two way of roughing in, looping at the light and looping at the switch. What he did was having the feed from board to the switch, which is looping at the switch.
@@Ray-tf2ps In the ECP 51 - New Zealand Electrical Code of Practice for Homeowner/Occupier's Electrical Wiring Work in Domestic Installations (NZECP 51:2004) on pg 23 it shows the feed into C, the red and white of the strap to 1 and 2 of each switch and blue from strap at second switch to the phase of light. Same outcome but which is the correct way in NZ www.worksafe.govt.nz/dmsdocument/1580-new-zealand-electrical-code-of-practice-for-homeowneroccupiers-electrical-wiring-work-in-domestic-installations-nzecp-51-2004
Why don't u put ur live into the commons on the switches?
Is there required color for 1and 2 wire for 2 way switch
After you have done the 2 way switch how would you then feed of that back to a 1 way switch? I thought a feed wire from no 1 to the c on the 1 way switch then a wire from the no 1 on the one way switch to bulb wood work. But it doesn’t work. Thou the 2 way switch works perfectly
On the above trying to run the 1 way switch of the 2nd end of the two way switch
Would this work with Touch Switches?
Thank you Dave!! Very easy to understand.
life saver, thank you so much
subbed, easy to follow. thanks bud
Very helpful thank you.
Very clear. Thanks 👍
there is a 3 way switch
Great videos mate, Thanks!!!
Your legend
Nice
Absolute legend, took my power switches out for painting and got confused with 2 way switch wiring when re-installing. This video got it all sorted. Thanks
I once replaced a failed switch that was one of a two-way, I found two diagrams for guidance; one labelled 'preferred' and another 'alternate'. Existing wiring was the 'preferred' type and easy to understand - just two wires between the switches and only a single wire in each common (no twisting different wires together). The alternate method was more complicated and needed three wires between the switches, I wondered why anyone would do that.
This video shows a slight variation of that alternate method and I can see why it might be done now - with this method you can add the second switch at any time without having to touch the existing wires at the lamp fitting.
With the easier method live goes through both switches to the lamp and return/neutral from there - so as well as wiring the switches together you'd also have to divert a wire from the lamp fitting to the new switch, if I'm not mistaken. Glad to finally understand that after all these years.
Great video ,do need to use TPS cable for the second switch, or what that just for your vid,
How do you Earth the other light switch? That’s if you was to use a metallic light switch,
Asking from the UK so not sure if you even have metallic ones, we use 3 core and earth
Good videos 👍🏼
run an earth from your main feed at the other light switch.
Hi Dave, I have a question.
Im a student doing my electrical pre-trade, and in class, we learnt that to connect a 2 way switch we wire C-C and 1-1,2-2 or even crisscross 1-2,2-1. My teacher said there are different ways to do it of course, but i am wondering why you do it this particular way, is there a specific reason? or is this just your personal preferred?
Brilliant video - thanks mate - I'm from the UK and now living here in NZ - I was quite familiar with two way switching there but could not figure out how you did it over here.
Completely different in the UK where power comes from the board to the bayonet fitting and then out to the switch, and on to the 2way switch via 3 core and earth. (the next light in the next room then daisy chains off the first bayonet fitting)
There is nothing stpping you wiring it that way in Australia/NZ ether, its called looped at the light rather than looped at the switch. UK electricians are comming around to doing it our way lately. Mainly because walls are more often hollow and easy to get cables down, the advent of downlights and just the fact that the majority of your electrical work is at an easy level at switch height!
Unless you do a UK '2-plate' method of wiring to the switch. It then becomes similar to the NZ method..
NZECP 51:2004 NZ Electrical code of practice for homeowner/occupier's electrical wiring work .PAGE 23