Avoid This Mistake with Your Portable Sawmill
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Avoid this mistake with your portable sawmill as if you do fall into the trap, you'll potentially ruin some nice logs. With the sawmill shelter coming along nicely behind my old sawmill shelter, I am out searching the forest today for a decent size tree to make into the main rafter support beam. After cutting the beam to length the fun beings as the Kioti DK40 hooks on and begins the process. With some fancy driving I manage to get the logs up to the sawmill where the plan starts to unravel. With an opening onto the sawmill being about 15 feet, I have my work cut out for me moving a 22.5' log into position. As you can tell this takes a lot of effort and time and in hindsight, not worth it. Finally I get the log into position and the cutting begins. Unfortunately for me, I forget one critical step that ends up throwing a wrench in my plans. Tune in to see what that was. Oh well, things could be worse I suppose. Here we go!
Hey Sandy. Sconrady123 has the right idea. I've been managing to cut 23 ft beams from the stock 16'10" track allowance. The trick Ive found was to raise the cant one side using 2x4 or 4x4 on the cross beam to somewhat level off the smooth side cut to the rough side. Ive also found focusing on doing just the top and bottom first [rather then trying to square off all four sides at once] works better - it just makes working the cant [moving, flipping, rotating etc] easier and more precise. With some help, and lots of room, we managed to get a 26ft 6x8 beam. We had to rotate the cant back to front a few times but it worked out pretty good. Its never as smooth as a continuous cut but still level within 1/4 " across the 26ft. This is one of the reasons why i was mentioning in one of your previous video about giving yourself some more room to work, especially with that beauty of a tractor you have. You might not need the space often, but when you need it - you really need it.
Sandy:. I cannot tell you how much I really appreciate the honesty of your videos! Nothing prepared ahead, nothing scripted, just real as we all experience, including mistakes that happened to all of us. That is so encouraging! 👍
Thanks John. I’m just a normal man like the rest of us so I want to be sure to show exactly what it’s like. I think my acting skills are pretty bad so even if I wanted I think my script wouldn’t be too good hava
i have framed many houses in my time and this is what i have done to raise beams...2by4 wall jacks stood at both end brace the 2by4 off as high as you can get on your post preferably useing screw ...when you jack the beam up as high as you can get then brace off underneath the beam and then remove the upper brace then finish jacking it up and slide it on the post ...its a bit tedious but can be done safley if you take your time ... here is an image of the wall jacks ...you may be able to rent them they aint cheap to buy www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/qual-craft-2601q-economical-portable-wall-jack?cm_mmc=Google-_-PRODUCTFEED-_-Qual_Craft-_-2601Q&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8fr7BRDSARIsAK0Qqr6SLvVLWeQ8PHKhKwqh_WEm_zspAyJJHDC35C5Ac3AqzW4-F8HKS0caAkFEEALw_wcB
Thanks for passing that info along. Very helpful. I haven't finalize a plan yet but I"ll keep this in mind. Thanks again for watching.
See if you could find a old manure carrier section
Hi there
thanks Dad
If you put 4 inch shims under the cut section and drag it back 7 To 8feet you can just keep turning the log with the uncut portion off the bunks Luca
Makayla Burlingame any twist and you lock up or damage the blade.
Stephen R actually this is her father I own a hm 126 have made 6 24 ft beams this way on my mill that is only capable of cutting 16 ft beams however i strapped down the beam and it is not easy.
Put spacer blocks under each post of the mill and let the end hang off
That is what I do also.
the first time I did the same thing you did but i solved that problem. It may not be perfected perfected but turn the log so it on the second cut is on the bunk . on the furtherest bunk from the saw measure the distance from the bottom of the log to the bunk. slide the log past the sawblade and mimic the distance to a bunk. Tier down and finsh the cut. turn the log 180 degrees and make a cut. From now on the 2nd face cut will be parallel to the rest of the cuts. the 90 with also register true to that 2nd cut. It sound complicated but isn't I I do it right now so everytthing is cool. Best to you
I like the fact that you showed your mistake and explained it most people would have edited that out and said look I'm perfect all the time
Yeah I know what you mean about other channels. I figure why cover up the mistakes when we all know that we make them from time to time.
Just watched and in this video you presented a problem and asked for ideas, in the video of you actually raising the beam into place you used blocks of wood attached to the posts. I have since seen a very nifty way to raise that beam as I am facing a 30 ft beam on 14' posts. Cut a couple of 2x6 or 8 about 2' long then drill a hole about 1.5 " from the end for the top bolt and each edge of the board spaced wide enough for the post so the post will fit in the space between boards and bolts of the size of your choice. Mount the boards on the posts, lay the beam on the boards and raise it into place like raising a climbing tree stand. When you get to top just roll the beam into place and secure. I know you have already raised the beam but future reference.
A good excuse to buy a couple toe boards! That way you could raise the log and roll it back and finish your beam.
Thanks for posting, I appreciate what you’re up to and sharing it with the world.
Yeah I agree with ya there Jeff
If you have some really long sapling type trees, lash up a tripod and place it over the work area and use a block and tackle (chain hoist) to lift one end of the log up to the post and repeat for the other end. If everything went smoothly for a project, one would have an lessons to learn and share on their youtube channel. It's unfortunate that you made the error of not cutting the whole length of one face of the beam at the same time before rotating the log.
you could have blocked it up with 3 by ,4 by or what it may need, could make
some out of square tubing
So I noticed your chain slip hooks were living up to their name and slipping loose when you were hooking up the logs. I used to struggle with that as well. You may want to try out choker hooks, which are specific for skidding and will allow slippage to choke the log but also stay on the chain while you are fiddling around with things. Here's an example, but you can get them from many forestry and logging supply places (usually about $7-9 USD per hook): www.labonville.com/Regular-Choker-Hook--Import--L175i_p_733.html
Turn the slip hooks around so the opening faces the back, away from the direction of pull. They will stay hooked better and even with spring latches will avoid damaging the latch with the chain during the pull.
Shim it Sandy...use 2x or what ever on the bunks...
SCARF JOINT
Yeah that could work.
Why not cut the logs in half and scarf them together like the log house builders do?
think like an Egyptian use a few car Jacks and you can move it where you want
Why didn't you just turn the log flipping it to the other side to finish cutting it?
I will be putting my hm122 together tomorrow. Probably going to be leaning on your videos a ton so keep up the great videos. Also where did you get the hat? I can’t find them on their website. Thanks
Did mine a couple of months ago so the process is still fresh in my mind if you have any questions. My first suggestion is to work off solid and somewhat level ground. My blocks have sunk and shifted with weight of logs etc.
Awesome channel Sandy!
I would have just cut some blocks to the right size and slit them under the log on each of the cross members of the mill to prop it up level or taken a rebate out on the one the round section of log was sitting on.
Putting up the beam is easy on your own if you prep a few things. I’m half your size and do it all the time. Depending how high you have to lift it put a 3,4, 5 or 6 step ladder or saw stools at each end. Your ladder or saw stools should be high enough that when you stand on them the beam finish height won’t be much higher than your shoulder height. Have some quick clamps ready at each end. Notch out your posts ready to take beam. Cut beam to length ready to go. Lift onto top of your ladder or saw stools one end at a time. Climb up lift one end onto your bitch and clamp it or nail a piece of timber up the post over the beam holding it in place so it won’t fall off. Lift the other end up onto notch and clamp into place. If it’s really heavy put a block half way fixed to the post so you can rest it on the blocks as you go up, make sure you clamp the beam each time you rest so it doesn’t fall off and break your legs🙄 Just go slow and think about every aspect as you go so you don’t make any mistakes and hurt yourself and always prepare for the worst, eg- make sure you have clear and clean space to jump out of the way if something where to go wrong🤙
Thanks for the help. I have fully figured out a plan yet so good to hear from others to get some ideas
I made the mistake of accepting a 34" diameter White Pine. Never again on my HM130.
That sure would be a fight to get that one move around
Sandy you hopped the chane hook tong on your logs you should hook it so the back of the hook is on the bottom to keep it from coming loose I learned that along time ago when my chane kept comeing loose
Thanks for that tip Michael
You could have slid your log back and blocked up on top of the bunks to keep your 22 ft. beam.
came here to say the same thing. Although it could have been wedge cut enough he would have came to a point at one end.
Yeah you're right. Trouble is my mistake created a dimension that would've been too small had I continued at the one end
A few questions if that's okay ... Seen many of your videos but they all hit as a gumble with no real order on my phone searching is no help ...
#1) what is the wattage of the green lazer you installed on the mill 20mw or 50mw and is it still good on clear bright sunny unshaded days ?
#2) in making Hillbilly Shack 2.0 on the bottom base frame you gave the brand of caulk you used ... But I missed it can you tell me what that was??
#3) so glad I got to see this today, my mill isn't even here yet ... Still have you ever used a scissor jack or anything like it to jack up the skinny end of the log so the heart of the wood lays dead in the middle ??
#4) so had this gone right your plan was to cut down it as far as you can then pull the log across the mill and finish that one face at a time ... I'm starting to think shims might be helpful between the log and mill cross member ... IDK ... If you had to do it again what has your experience provided you for insight ???? Since I too will have to cut a beam longer then my bed by about 8 feet on a 12.5' bed .... But I also plan to only do it once ...
I wish I had a variety of power equipment ... I don't all I have is a 93 path finder borrowed trailer and a husky 450 for now
Again thanks very much very helpful as always
Crazybob
Hi Crazybob! Thanks for watching the channel. The laser has been good. I have only ever used it in the sawmill shed so not sure how it works in full sunlight. It's a 20mW laser. Here's a link to the video th-cam.com/video/FPiF7CJSpzA/w-d-xo.html
As for the caulking that I used it was Construction Adhesive made by Lepage. I use it a lot for projects over the years.
I have used a scissor jack before but don't have one handy unfortunately but I think it would be helpful for sure when sawing. I do use shims from time to time.
I also have a video that just came out where I saw a 20' log on a 10'5" sawmill that might shed some light on how I did that
Here it is th-cam.com/video/lRg7lFQPSaY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks again for watching
@@sawingwithsandy ... Thanks for that you said it 20mw right there in the video by golly ... I think I'll go with a different Lazer but from the same place they seem to want to sell the one for sawmills about $100 more then they call a green line Lazer they both use the same mount with a different size hole and it has a wider temperature range also ... To me it's like looking for milk just to bake a cake over the one that you might get drink and never for coffee rt 👍 ... But now days you can even get gluten-free salsa so I don't know I didn't know it was a new thing ... Requires a 0.5-2 volt higher power source but that's just three 1.5 volt batteries not 2 ... I really want to thank you for getting back to me with my questions ... Thank you for your time in doing that as time is the one thing we can't replace 😉 ... I'm going to use D-cells AAA cells just run dry to fast ... Peace out
Why is this not touching 😆😆😆😅
haha the realization when the log wasn't touching the bunk was a bit of a frustrating moment to say the least
@@sawingwithsandy you could have always blocked up the cut length of the log , and feed the remaining 5 feet or so onto the bed ?
I knew ya could, good show thanks
Add 2 by to bunks and slide log down
Why not just use the whole log in the construction of your shelter, is it not stronger anyways?
Main reason is I want to have a flat edge to nail my rafters on as I'll be making "birdsmouth cuts" into the rafters and so they will sit best with a flat surface.
Any chance that the bucket on your tractor could lift the beam high enough? You probably don't have a lot of staging, but in the recent past, I have lifted extreme weights by setting up a beam between two sets of staging and lifting with a chain hoist hanging from that beam. Use as many sets of staging as you require to gain the height you desire. I was able to get that beam to the top of the staging by lifting one end at a time - up one "rung" of the staging at a time.
Unfortunately the bucket lifts to about 9’. Think I may try to rig something up to extend the lift on my bucket. Still thinking
@@sawingwithsandy Yes, that sounds like a plausible remedy, Sandy. I think some people may refer to such at thing as a "gin pole". If you could temporarily (and easily) mount two poles (small beams) of some kind to your bucket, you might be in business. Don't get hurt though, in all of this, however!
Perhaps you could lift the sawmill beam in the center, rather than trying to lift one end of the beam at a time. Might even just use two wooden beams for gin poles - one on each side, mounted temporarily to your tractor's bucket. Drive a big spike into the upper ends of the two gin poles. To begin, have the bucket flat on the ground like it would be if plowing snow. These two wooden beams (gin poles) would be parallel to the ground when you mount them to the sides of the bucket).
Drill big holes in the beam you are lifting - lined up with the spikes. Use the tractor to force the two spikes into the holes in the beam you are lifting. Then curl the bucket (and lift the beam). I am not sure if your bucket will curl enough to cause the gin poles to move to a vertical position.
Classic man versus machine
This is one of my favourite channels! Keep up the good work. Wish I can afford it
Hey Sandy, just got back from a trip across Canada to visit family in Ontario. I was in your neck of the woods a week or so ago. Went through Orillia, Minden, Haliburton, Bancroft and on to Ottawa. Thought of you while I was driving along. Just catching up on your videos now. Good to see your Dunlops being taken out for a spin, first time this season I think, but remember to wear your work pants over top of your Dunlops to keep out sawdust and debris from getting in your boots! Getting ready for the snow here in BC. I think we get it around the same time as you do.
Hope your trip went well. That sure would have been quite the miles on the vehicle. Almost winter time around here. Hopefully not too soon as I need to finish the sawmill shack.
@@sawingwithsandy Yeah we did 10300kms in total. We were in a Chevy Silverado pick up. Love those trucks so it was easy driving.
Also Sandy, i wanted to mention, if you cant get the full length you require in one cant, split the thickness into 2 or even 3 staggered, glued, and nailed pieces to stretch your length. As an example, if your trying to create a 20ft 8x8 beam, use 2 pcs of 4x8x15ft plus 2pcs 4x8x5ft, glue, nail, and obviously stagger your joints staring each long piece from opposite ends.... or better yet split your 8" width into 3 and stagger, glue, nail together. I'm convicted this method [staggering, gluing, and nailing together long separate pieces] is as strong if not stronger then one full 8x8 cant - reason being the pressure cracks in the drying fresh wood are spread out and deflected to different locations.
Some great points. Thanks for sharing
Good job. I appreciate you being willing to show your mistakes and how you figure out the next step, just like all of us. I use a log as a boom, in your case maybe a 10-12 footer around 6 to 8" diameter, wedge it into your fork backing plate and secure it with chains then use a strap to tie to the beam. Make sure you have the physics right and don't tip first!
Thanks Miguel
As far as raising your beam, are you able to get your tractor around the back side? If so, use that bench you have there [or build a quick new cube like structure] to give your tractor forks more reaching height. Not exactly construction site approved, but hey, work it slowly.
I think that may be a good idea and one I end up going with.
Ml0
Sandy, you didn't have to cut your log. Put some short 4X4's on a few of your bunks and your squared off log on top of them after sliding it down.
You’re right. I actually decided that the length was just too much to handle as well and so I decide I better “cut” my loses hava
To get that beam up on top of the posts, attach 2x6 boards to each side with lag bolts to make a cradle, lay the beam on the deck against the upright beams, then raise on end up with the loader so it sits in one end cradle secure it with a strap, then lift the other end up to sit in the other cradle, piece of cake.
Problem I’m running into is my loader will only lift to about 9’
If you have trees close enough you could use a pulley system to raise it. When cutting logs to long after you cut two sides set the log on 4x4s that's what I did before .
Yeah I think you’re right. Lifting it up off the bunks on 4x4 would work well.
Rig a couple sleeves that your forks will slide into a couple inches bolt them to beam should have enough lift that way
Thanks Harlow. Good idea.
With all due respect and I do mean that
Thanks for showing me what not to do, because I have asked myself what if.
No problem at all. I learned some new that day
I think sandy if I were doing it I would of run a string down the whole log on one side then get the plain for the mill on the correct plane just go down till the mill stops then turn it 1/4 turn and do the next cut using a string to get the right plane run the mill down that till it runs out of bed. so you still have the end round. then put a couple 4x4s on your bunks to get the log up off the bunk do the next two cuts to square the log then bring the log back so you can finish cutting the log square but use the 4x4 up too where the log becomes round then just add shims at the end to keep the log at the correct height and make the two cuts then you can take out the 4x4 or go back to the bunk. finish squaring your log.
That 4x4 idea is a good one and definitely something I'll be keeping in mind. Thanks for sharing.
Well the bottom line is just as you say...life is good. And the next go round will give you good odds
I always try to have glass half full for sure.
Haha! Dad knows best!
I'm with ya there!
You need to take your peavey log roller to move the large timber around on the ground next time. take some logs, make a A frame and use a chain hoist to lift one end then move to other end and repeat.
Yeah that certainly would be an easier way
Grab hooks, use your chainsaw mill to finish the end off, nope you just cut it short 😢
The taper on that beam was too much and would’ve got worse if I kept cutting
so I've thought a little bit about running extra long logs on the mill. I'd setup a platform along the bunks then get/make a pair of skate boards under the log. Then run the log through the mill instead of the mill through the log.
That certainly would take some serious planning to get right I think
Could work though don’t get me wrong. I’ll try anything.....once haha
Quite an endeavor
Haven't tried to cut a beam longer than my mill will cut. But, I got it on my will have to do one day list.
A suggestion for next time this happens. Remove the end "bunk" so the uncut log isn't resting on it. Then you slide the log down so that where you have already cut will rest on the last actual bunk and you can then cut to the end of the saw head travel. Rinse and repeat as necessary till you reached the end of the log.
See my post on the topic. Just use blocks on the bunks to lift the log even
See my post on the topic. Just use blocks on the bunks to lift the log even
hey chris you have seen the log cairiages the circular sawmills use to move the logs back and forth ...this made e think of screwing some angle iron ontop of the log bunks and make a cairiage that would roll on those so one could cut as far as possible with the samill then roll the cairage to finish cutting the log lngth...cheers and thankyou for sending me here
Grizz270 I’ve thought about making a carriage and building toe boards with conveyor rollers. Make the cut. Raise log and carriage with the toe boards. Move log and carriage down. Lower the toe boards Continue the cut
Nice Tractor there young feller.
Thanks Jerry. Sure am fortunate to have it.
Just buy a 4 ft extension
Yeah that would be the easiest option. It may be a hard sell for my accountant haha
Maybe the bucket of the tractor. Or a pully attached to one of the trees a use the power of the tractor to lift the beam.
Oh well, at least the shorter logs will be shorter. Make it easier to lift them up on top. Great video as always.
Yeah not my first choice but I'm sure I"ll make it work. Thanks again for checking out the video.