Lomochrome Purple 100 vs 400 | Bronica ETR
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2024
- Curious about the color shift in Lomochrome Purple at 100 iso vs 400 iso? Me too. So I decided to do a comparison using the Bronica ETR
▬ Contents of this video ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
0:00 intro
00:32 photo contest
01:02 lomo comparison
11:03 Bronica ratings
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0:35 last day for submissions
1:43 Bronica shots. SEXY
2:59 PURPLE
5:13 in conclusion, Florida sucks for Lomo purple
5:47 Bronica not mechanical. Needs battery
In conclusion, Bronica has a lot of issues
9:32 shoe ISO 400 for decent skin tones. Iso 100 and post production for better coloring
10:09 great shot
10:13 great shot
Great video
Haha
The AE prism is powered by the camera battery also, and unlike later AE-II or AE-III, half click shutter release button will not activate the meter, the AE label in front of the prism is actually a button.
Got some of this on the way, soo glad you covered this!!
nice! it's pretty rad. I can definitely see it being a great option for some creative projects.
@@graham_white 100% besides this film then next project I'm working on is one of those build your own TLR camera
I've got an ETRSi and it's a beast, the mirror lockup is great too if you're into long exposures. Highly recommended if anyone is interested in a lightweight medium format SLR system that's not gonna break the bank.
really good, so I really want to 😭
I like your Lightroom corrections. Looking forward to shooting this film at 100, much better color.
Good review!
Thanks Joel!
Bronica is a heavy tool :) Thanks for the informative review Graham / greats from berlin
Probably the best video about lomo purple.
Wow, appreciate that
Hi Graham, I have the SQ-Ai and had the same dark slide issue with a film back I bought from e-bay. I took little strip that the pin fits into off the back and the lever that the dark slide presses on had come out of place... I simply reseated that and put it back together and all is well now :-) I hope that helps!
That does help! I figured it may be something like that but haven’t dissected it yet. This should save me some time. Appreciate it Paul.
The jump is a much greater improvement in quality between 135 and 645, than the jump from 645 to 6x7. 645 is the best bang for buck for roll film, which is why 645 was so popular back in the 70's and 80's. I know, I was shooting 6x6 Minolta TLR back then, but lusted for a Bronnie or Mamiya 645.
Very true
How come the one with less exposure(400) have more shadow details? Are you sure didn't switch them while editing? The one shot at 100 shoyld have more details :)
LOVE the lomochrome purple. They have turquoise one too, but i think they stop producing it.
They still make it
Did you develop both films as 400, or did you develop them based on what you set the ISO to, ie., you developed the one exposed at ISO100 as if it was a 100 film, and the one exposed at ISO400 as if it was a 400?
Hey Graham, your viewfinder should have a meter in it, I believe. It appears to be one of the metered viewfinders available for the Bronica ETR system. Defo better build quality than a 645 Super, but the older lenses aren't the best performers due to lower qc standards at the old factory they were produced at. The newer lenses for the ETR system rival their counterparts of Mamiya.
Good to know on the lenses thanks for that info. Ya i thought there would be a meter as well since it’s coupled to the battery but I definitely did not see one. The camera was recently serviced as well by its previous owner so I wouldn’t think it died. Unless there is a small mercury battery in the actual viewfinder that I neglected to look for
great video, the mechanical speed is 1/500th, aka full speed!; the 'lock-up' you experienced at 8:22 is simply due to no film in the back, to 'test fire' you need to flick the DOUBLE exposure switch forwards (til you see a red dot)- red means the winder is dead, this allows you to shoot, the bronica's have a quirk they 'feel' the film winding gear and do this BEFORE the shutter is re-cocked, so to cock the shutter this Double exposure mode sidesteps the interlocks, so you can cock the shutter straight away.
True but that doesn't explain why it was locking with film in it as I mentioned was the original issue. I disassembled the film back and the pin was actually bend preventing it from actuating properly every time I removed the dark slide.
@@graham_white yes, this is an interlock, as soon as you hit film end, the shutter locks-up, to tell you the film is used up, and to re-load!, as with all film based, MF cameras, this is why you 'service' or cla them occasionally, not just for light seals, but for the film counter, and any other dammage that may occur during normal use, happens to everything, especially when they get to as old as some of these cameras (20+ years) so good on you for the diy repair, but for some things nothing can beat a camera mechanic's touch.
@@graham_white there is one other reason, if the 'start' is showing, aka the film counter is not at 1 this can cause the lockup with film in, as there is only leader paper in front of the pressure plate, so in other words, this is a Blank exposure prevention.
@@andyvan5692 oh absolutely. I am slowly learning the proper techniques of camera repair so technically I know much more than todays average film shooter, but by no means nothing I do would ever compare with a pro mechanics touch.
@@andyvan5692 good to know. I was already at shot 3-4 ish so this time that wouldn't have been it but noted for future troubleshooting.
Your ETR definitely came with a light meter as you've got the metered prism on the camera. Probably it was turned off. 🙂
I have since figured it out. Took me a while and is definitely not how I would expect it to work at all. Confused by their decision on that but yes you are correct. Haha. A updated video will be coming soon now that I’ve used it more
I have a Bronica Etr and 2 backs, no problem with my backs .... also I have the same battery for at least the last 12 month and still running well
Thanks Nelson! I feel like maybe I got a d battery or a bad brand or something. And ya I’m thinking the film back is just a bit sticky or something at that joint.
The pro tip on ETR series cameras is to always lock the shutter button. If it’s not locked it will be “asleep” but still slowly drain. Turning it to lock and making sure the AE Prism is off is the key. Your battery will last for YEARS
the shutter speed is 1/500 without a battery. The clockwork tries to close the shutter at a constant speed and the coil (what the battery powers) just holds it open a set amount of time. My etrs doesn't have a built in meter, I think the "s" just changes something in the finder.
your auto finder may only work with the etrs. If it is working, the shutter speed dial on the camera won't matter, you set the aperture and it sets the shutter speed.
Ah! thats the speed, thanks for that. I wondered about the finder because it looks like it is powered by the battery but it doesn't show you anything in the finder. I find it odd that it would automatically choose the shutter speed but not tell you which and therefore you no way of correcting errors. But why would the etr have that finder connection if it didn't do anything? thanks for that info.
What about metering for 200iso? Kinda in the middle. Gonna try some of this on my RB!
Also, you may want to look into getting a pop filter for your mic.. the P’s are clipping in your voice over. Got a sub from though! Good stuff 🖖
Ya I’m wondering which way 200 will lean. I really like the dark purples of 100 but it’s easy to photoshop.
And yeaaaaah 😒 it’s a new mic and I need to spend more time setting it up properly and getting used to it
@@graham_white ya I like the colors of 100 also. The deep purples look good. And yeah sounds good, not bad by any means, just those Ps lol even a cheap pop filter would prob help a ton
Whilst my go-to is my Mamiya RB67 Pro SD system, I use the Bronica ERTs and ETRSi as my 645 option. I also have the Mamiya 645 Super, the build quality is far better on the Bronica, the Mamiya body and backs are far more plasticy, as are a lot of the Mamiya 645 lenses, although I can't fault them optically.
For me the Bronica ERTs system is by far the better of the two. Admittedly I have not used the Contax, but the cost for a reasonable system is a little prohibitive, particularly as I shoot 67 as well.
Thanks Baxter! I agree my go to is the RB. And I’m hearing that from several people about the Bronica being better option than the mamiya 645s
I found out that I have to take the battery out of my RZ67 finder or it (parasitic?) drains over time even when the function dial is in the 'off'' position.
Ya almost all cameras will drain battery but it’s usually ever so slightly that it doesn’t matter. But some like mine (and assuming your RZ) drain at a much higher rate or engage the battery continuously which kills it quicker.
@@graham_white Your vblog prodded me to check mine again, it's fine. Forgot to remove it last time but I'm getting blinking orange and red LED's so it's good. I'm watching a group of you Zenza Bronica users and I'm thinking of getting one. Thanks for your vblogs. Helpful.
Overexposing 400 iso film by 2 stops is the same as shooting at 100. You said you pulled the roll you shot at 100, but I’m fairly curtain Lomo isn’t expecting people to be pulling color neg as that practice is pretty much not a thing anymore. I’m curious about your scanning methods because the 400 +2 shots look somewhat poorly scanned IMO. Idk, just some thoughts. This thought me a lot about how the film responds to different scenarios. Thanks!
The box and Lomos sight says 100-400 and that you have the option to shoot wherever you want in that range to change the color of the film. So naturally you are correct that is going to change the color and how the film reacts. As far as scanning I’m not exactly sure. Given the oddity of this film I sent it off to be developed to ensure bigger accuracy in development. Thanks for the input!
So I am guessing you shot iso 400 photos underexposed than iso 100 photos?
Because I'm pretty sure shooting something at higher iso means actually underexposing the shots.
From what I read in the description shooting it at 400 is the standard so that would be proper exposure. and then shooting at 100 iso would be overexposing it 2 stops to add additional light. I get what you are saying though. If "box speed" was 100 then shooting it at 400 would be underexposing it 2 stops. The description says its ISO 400... but the title says iso 100-400. soooo you knows I guess? With portra you can overexpose several stops and be fine but soon as you underexpose it it doesn't hold up as well.
Hey man, not sure if anyone has commented this yet, but your microphone is actually a “side-address” mic - you need to make sure the correct side is pointed at your mouth, not the top. Not sure if the correct side is pointed in your direction in this video, but assuming it is, all you need to do is angle the mic so the side points toward your mouth and bingo. You don’t need to get too close, esp without a pop filter to handle the air blasts from p’s, f’s and other plosives. Hope that helps
did not know that. thanks!
you missed the dial on the right of the metered prism, this has OFF, {red dot}, A (apature priority Automatic; you set the asa, on the left dial, and the apature on the lens, the meter sets the speed, Green speeds are GOOD {hand_holding}, Yellow are medium, RED, means HELP- put me on a tripod, and use a cable release PLEASE), and finally M (manual, like a hand-held meter, reading only, YOU set apature and shutter, BUT the meter still reads the light and asa you put on the dial).
First of all, thank you for that nice video. Really like the calm way you present information! I‘m really interested in the way Lomo Purple renders and this is why I came across your video.
So I got a bit confused by way you shot iso 100 and 400. Lomo states on their website that 400 should be the „box speed“ to shoot the film. So if I got that correctly, you metered for iso 400 dann overexposed by 2 stops for the iso 400 images and then you‘ve lowered the exposure by 2 stops for the iso 100 images. If I get the right, your photo labeled as „iso 100“ is actually „lomo box speed (iso400) and your photos labeled as „iso 400“ are actually just 2 stop overexposed „box speed“ shots.
I know this is a lot of number here but, I think this is how you calculated that. Please let me know your thoughts about that. :)
How are all your 100 iso photos darker? Shooting at 100 should be considerably more exposure than 400, yet all your 100 ISO shots are darker and less exposed than the 400 shots.
If i shot them at the same settings yes that would be the case. But since I’m using 2 different film backings of course it’s very easy to change settings for each one ensuring they are more equally exposed. And also this film has a color shift when you shoot at different speeds. Moving from more pink at 400 to purple at 100. Making it feel even less exposed. Also the continuously changing cloud coverage made it more interesting as well.
No battery or low battery brings the speed to 1/500
What if you red scale this film?
Great question, that would be interesting to see
What?
It shouldn’t be killing batteries that fast.
right? maybe I bought a dud or cheap brand or something but it was brand new when I put it in. I did read in the manual to remove battery if you let it sit for a while cause it will drain... but did not expect it to drain that fast.
@@graham_white only time I’ve had that happen to me was with an om-10 with dirty traces on the on off switch that I think was making a very weak path to ground, even when off. Might be worth going over the switch tracks with contact cleaner, depending on what they use for power.
my battery died after a month lol
Dang lol
@@graham_white took my bronica on a road trip and i think the light meter button was pressed against something in my bag. either way from now on I just remove the battery when Im not using the camera
Music playing, competing with your narration...... AAAAGGGHHHH!!! 😡😡😡