Probably the best video on this repair I have watched. Truly meticulous work by someone skilled at PCB repairs. Questions! If the solder points on the other end of the harness are intact, can you simply remove the end going to the potentiometer, strip the wires back, and retain the harness to avoid unnecessary soldering (especially if you aren't as skilled as you are!?) Next, I have a decent soldering iron with fine tip, but it doesn't have the built in vacuum as yours does. Would you recommend using a wick to remove the solder or is a soldering iron like yours critical? Also, can you recommend a solder? I understand there is solder specific for PCB repair.
@@mountainbiker4450 you are too kind! I wanted to repair the board for a friend so I would never see it again, so I fixed it best I could. You could just repair the broken wires and that would be sufficient. I don’t like solder wick, it tends to leave residue that’s hard to clean off the connections, depending on the brand and chemicals in the wick. I’ve used 63/37 tin lead that’s water washable for 20+ years and that works for everything I need to do. Good luck!!
@@spe672 Thanks. I see there are these solder suction devices on Amazon. Do you have any experience with them? Also, after suction of the old solder, is it critical to refill the cleaned out circuit holes with solder and then suction again, before final soldering of the wire? I think the less I try to mess with those little holes, the better.
@@mountainbiker4450 I’ve used the manual solder vacuum that you are referring to, and I think it worked, but it was a really long time ago. I’ve used this Pace soldering station for probably 15 years. I filled the holes a second time and then vacuumed them back out just to make sure I removed all the old solder and it was ready for wires to be soldered in it. If you can get everything cleaned out then the first try, that’s probably all you need to do.
Great video, thanks for posting, clear and concise.👍
Probably the best video on this repair I have watched. Truly meticulous work by someone skilled at PCB repairs. Questions! If the solder points on the other end of the harness are intact, can you simply remove the end going to the potentiometer, strip the wires back, and retain the harness to avoid unnecessary soldering (especially if you aren't as skilled as you are!?) Next, I have a decent soldering iron with fine tip, but it doesn't have the built in vacuum as yours does. Would you recommend using a wick to remove the solder or is a soldering iron like yours critical? Also, can you recommend a solder? I understand there is solder specific for PCB repair.
@@mountainbiker4450 you are too kind! I wanted to repair the board for a friend so I would never see it again, so I fixed it best I could. You could just repair the broken wires and that would be sufficient. I don’t like solder wick, it tends to leave residue that’s hard to clean off the connections, depending on the brand and chemicals in the wick. I’ve used 63/37 tin lead that’s water washable for 20+ years and that works for everything I need to do. Good luck!!
@@spe672 Thanks. I see there are these solder suction devices on Amazon. Do you have any experience with them? Also, after suction of the old solder, is it critical to refill the cleaned out circuit holes with solder and then suction again, before final soldering of the wire? I think the less I try to mess with those little holes, the better.
@@mountainbiker4450 I’ve used the manual solder vacuum that you are referring to, and I think it worked, but it was a really long time ago. I’ve used this Pace soldering station for probably 15 years. I filled the holes a second time and then vacuumed them back out just to make sure I removed all the old solder and it was ready for wires to be soldered in it. If you can get everything cleaned out then the first try, that’s probably all you need to do.
Would you happen to know what year the Highlander is?
This was a 2005, but I believe this is the same for 2004-2007 models.
Use pine rossin then you dont need to clean m8 its natural
I prefer not to use rosin with my de-soldering gun. I will add a leaded solder first before de-soldering.
Natural doesn't mean no cleaning necessary.😂 You need something that doesn't react creating problems
@@fuzzs8970 Read what pine rossin is m8, its natural product, you dont need to clean, it protect from Corrosion