Thanks, Zak. Do some research and know what to look for. Rust is the biggest concern. Even so, financially I don't think the cost had been too bad, but do some research there as well to get a feel for prices. I cannot wait to drive her!
Looking great! I have a gap between the door and the weatherstripping on my MG also, I decided I'm just going to leave it, no rain for it anyway. I had to physically twist my door shell to bring the bottom corner in. Doesn't look like it would work for yours though.
Chris, on my 1970s spitfire right hand drive UK, the bonnet stay is on passenger side, your bonnet stay is on the drivers side oddly in front of the cylinders whereas mine is in front of the passenger side. Is there no way you can switch it over as I'm sure there is more room. If not, get some modern hydraulic struts!
Hi. But isn't your passenger's side my driver's side? I think if I tried to switch to my passenger's side, it would not clear the carbs. Maybe I'm not understanding you?
Looks like the sill on the passengers side is too wide. It sticks out proud of the door and proud of the bottom edge of the bonnet. You could cut through the top face of the sill (in front of the door) and vertically front and back to move it in. Also looks like the passengers door could be twisted in at the bottom on the rear to make it fit better.
Yup, that's the way I see that door too, Kourtney. Not quite ready to cut anything, though, as I did have it properly aligned when I was welding the sills in. I know it fits, just have to find the sweet spot.
Chris, I looked carefully at my bonnet prop and it looks like it never gets low enough to touch the bulk head. I could take some pictures or measurements if it would help
Thanks, Skip. I just grabbed the one from the black car and they are different. Seems that the original one lost the bend in the part that attaches to the wheel arch. The original is just straight with no bend. I'll have to compare on my next visit to be sure, but the owner's manual (and Rimmer's) also show a bend. I would, however, appreciate a picture of where your prop connects to the wheel arch. I'm starting to think there should be a spacer there of some sort. I don't have that currently. Thanks, Skip!! You can email me at roundtailrestoration66@gmail.com.
Awesome pics, Skip. Thanks so much. My prop rod is definitely not right. I grabbed the black car's and it's different. I'll see how they compare on the next visit. Thanks again!
That is really coming together and looking fine.
Thank you, sir!
Love the series. I’ve been considering a spitfire for a while now. Maybe I’ll pull the trigger on one soon.
Thanks, Zak. Do some research and know what to look for. Rust is the biggest concern. Even so, financially I don't think the cost had been too bad, but do some research there as well to get a feel for prices. I cannot wait to drive her!
Looking great! I have a gap between the door and the weatherstripping on my MG also, I decided I'm just going to leave it, no rain for it anyway.
I had to physically twist my door shell to bring the bottom corner in. Doesn't look like it would work for yours though.
Thanks, Eric. I'm pretty sure it's just an adjustment thing. I had the door pretty good before welding in the sill. I hope so, anyway!
Chris, on my 1970s spitfire right hand drive UK, the bonnet stay is on passenger side, your bonnet stay is on the drivers side oddly in front of the cylinders whereas mine is in front of the passenger side. Is there no way you can switch it over as I'm sure there is more room. If not, get some modern hydraulic struts!
Hi. But isn't your passenger's side my driver's side? I think if I tried to switch to my passenger's side, it would not clear the carbs. Maybe I'm not understanding you?
I don't know if it would make a difference, but the prop rod on mine is on the outside of the strut tower and clears everything just fine.
Hi, MrSteve. Even with the flattened pipe arranged the way I have it? I was afraid it would tear up the mounting point on the strut. Thanks!
@@roundtailrestoration here's a video of mine: th-cam.com/video/ey0YrseywX8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. I'll take a look at mounting it that way. Appreciate you taking the time to shoot that for me!
No problem
Looks like the sill on the passengers side is too wide. It sticks out proud of the door and proud of the bottom edge of the bonnet. You could cut through the top face of the sill (in front of the door) and vertically front and back to move it in. Also looks like the passengers door could be twisted in at the bottom on the rear to make it fit better.
Yup, that's the way I see that door too, Kourtney. Not quite ready to cut anything, though, as I did have it properly aligned when I was welding the sills in. I know it fits, just have to find the sweet spot.
Looks good. Hand built by Chris. I doubt those gaps were 100% perfect from the factory.
Probably not, but I'm going to give it a shot. Thank you!
Chris, I looked carefully at my bonnet prop and it looks like it never gets low enough to touch the bulk head. I could take some pictures or measurements if it would help
Thanks, Skip. I just grabbed the one from the black car and they are different. Seems that the original one lost the bend in the part that attaches to the wheel arch. The original is just straight with no bend. I'll have to compare on my next visit to be sure, but the owner's manual (and Rimmer's) also show a bend. I would, however, appreciate a picture of where your prop connects to the wheel arch. I'm starting to think there should be a spacer there of some sort. I don't have that currently. Thanks, Skip!! You can email me at roundtailrestoration66@gmail.com.
@@roundtailrestoration it's dark now, but I should be able to get one in the morning
Sounds good. No hurry and I appreciate it!
Awesome pics, Skip. Thanks so much. My prop rod is definitely not right. I grabbed the black car's and it's different. I'll see how they compare on the next visit. Thanks again!
@@roundtailrestoration I sent a bunch and wasn't sure I was doing it right. Glad you got them