My experience with Japanese camera shops that sell on ebay has been very positive. As you mentioned the Japanese really care for their cameras. All the equipment I bought from a Japanese camera shop via ebay has been better than it was described. Remarkably clean and working well. But as you said the equipment is old and it can break.
@@dflf I'm from México and all the cameras I've bought from japanese vendors have had cheaper shipping prices than the ones offered by vendors in the US. I've even got some with free shipping, and all with good tracking service. God knows why is that...
Great video. I live in Japan and I have to say sellers in Japan are very good, but be careful this days there is sellers from other country that say they are from Japan and the quality is not good. So double check that the store is really from Japan.
I think I’ve been a victim of this sadly and now check very carefully before buying. Glad to say I’ve just received another camera from Japan and the condition is better than described.
Everything you mentioned about film cameras is true especially sourcing a mint one from a 100% feedback seller from Japan. Having said all that in most cases all is not lost if a film camera goes faulty where as a digital camera is straight in the bin and having to buy a new one.
Great points Steve! I have had great success with reputable camera dealer here in the the U.S. and the dealers in Japan on eBay. However, I say buyer beware on the famous e auction site. I bought a Ricoh 500 rangefinder, beautiful for 139.95, advertised as working. I attempted to load film and the shutter locked up. I contacted the seller, no credit or refund, but directed me to his l repair person, I did my research and alot of complaints about the repair shop. Then I found a repair facility on the west coast, I sent it there. The repair tech checked it out and said this camera is not repairable asked if I wanted it back or junked. I said junk it. So on the auction site, buyer beware.
About four years ago I bought a Hasselblad mint condition really looked like new 503 cxi with 50mm lens from Japan. I had a CLA and new seals put in once I received it. Total cost camera and CLA + was right about $2000 but at age 52 back then I knew it is a camera I will shoot the rest of my life so it was worth it to me. What a gem it is I have shot so many rolls of film through it and taken it on so many long road trips. It has become a trusted old friend
Totally agree about ebay, I bought three 50mm Nikor lenses (mint-) all of which were returned. Repurchased from Japanese sellers along with many other items all mint in 'as new' condition and very well packaged. It's worth paying the extra, including duty (approx 28%) to get the top condition. I was very disappointed with UK sellers as from my experience they are very short on the truth, "buyer beware".
Excellent video, especially the warning in terms of sellers who offer garbage as "mint" or "excellent" quality and state that they cannot say anything about the equipment because they have no clue about photography and want to sell it "as is". As a buyer you will have no kind of warranty and no chance to return it.
With the electronic parts of cameras, I don't mind tinkering with them. I can usually rebuild PCB boards and know my way around electrical parts. But, I do usually go for the purely mechanical cameras as they are more reliable in the long run. However, once they outlive their usefulness, I don't throw them away. I keep them and put them on display, much like I used to collect rocks and such (I'm a geologist by profession). However, a good, reliable repair shop is a must. If you can find one that doesn't charge like a wounded bull, even better. Like you said, you have to be careful on the likes of Ebay, but there are good and reputable sellers on there that will do good deals with camera equipment. I've been lucky to find a few that I trust, but I've also come across some pretty dodgy characters as well. Not long ago had to chase one down to get my money refunded from and Ebay has banned that seller, now. Even with brand new stuff, you have to keep an eye on who you're dealing with. Your best bet is to go with sites like B&H, KEH and the like when it comes to buying camera equipment from online retailers.
Thanks Carl. I have used a few sellers over the years who I'm happy to go back to, I'm very cautious of those who have any negative feedback or don't sell many cameras.
I’m a Cannon guy so I’d suggest the A series with their FD lenses. They’re well made and versatile with manual and auto settings. They were very popular so there’s a lot of them out there. And as a plus you can still buy the 6v batteries that power them.
Excellent video and advice. I use Olympus om1n,,om2n and a om4ti for 35mm. And a broncos ertrs,,and a Kiev 88 TTL also a Fuji 6x9 for medium format. As for digital I have a Fujifilm x100 for my pocket camera.. Alan.
As for me, not shying away from doing a simple repair myself, I tend to look for repair manuals online for the cameras I own or am looking for. For example, when my Mamiya RB67 arrived, it was perfect (I tend to look for japanese sellers for these systems as well), but after a few days the shutter just jammed completely with nothing that could be done. I found a repair manual for the body (it wasn't the lens, luckily), got it open and inspected the internal mechanisms, which was fascinating. By slightly bending the correct parts I got it working perfectly after some time without destroying it. I also managed to lube the rotating back mechanism myself and to fix the counter on one of my backs, so now it's in perfect working order. If you attempt this I highly recommend taking a good look at the repair schematics and manuals and having a bit of confidence in your technical skill. With the right tools (in this case it was mostly small screwdrivers and tweezers) some repairs can be done yourself. But if you have a good repairshop that you trust, that's probably almost always the better option, because they are far more experienced. As to you, Steve, I thoroughly enjoy your videos, this one as well! Keep it up!
Thanks Marvin. I've done a few repair jobs myself and will often buy a donor body for this purpose but I find my lack of time is hampering me in this area. I'll probably do a lot more when work isn't getting in the way, it's very satisfying.
I have generally had quite good luck with Japanese sellers but a few things I've noticed: 1) Ignore the title of the listing, you may see "near mint" and then find out in the description that the self timer doesn't work and there's 'thin fungus' in the viewfinder. Use the titles to filter down, but then pay no mind to them to make a decision 2) I find regardless of the title the detailed descriptions tend to be accurate, but notice what isn't mentioned. If you see 3 listings from the same seller and 2 say "No fungus" but the 3rd doesn't mention fungus at all might be a good thing to ask about 3) Take those detailed descriptive comments and set them aside while you look at the photos. I'll see 9 listings mentioning 'minor dings' and they will noted in the photos and will indeed be minor, and then the 10th item's 'minor ding' will be a badly dented filter on the front of a lens or something else that isn't so minor afterall.
Another happy customer of Newton Ellis here (I'll be sending them a brace of Olympus OM2n bodies very soon). Alan Starkie at CameraWorks-UK did a splendid refurb job on my Leica M2, so now I have a 60 year-old Leica which I bought in rough shape, that is almost like new. With the old, basically mechanical mainstream stuff I'd have no fear of buying cheap and factoring in a repair or service. This is a great guide Steve.
Thanks Chris. I’ve got to the stage where I’m prepared to send off most of the second hard cameras I buy for a CLA even if they work OK on arrival. I like the peace of mind from having something that’s been properly checked over.
the really great thing about the old film cameras is the same thing as the negatives you listed, they are easily repairable and it can be done by anybody that has patience. Bellows are very easy to make yourself, so buying a camera with compromised bellows is a great way to get a good deal on a camera.
Thanks for your insights and sound advice! It's easy to tell which cameras and sellers are preferred just by the prices! They're really going up fast here in there U.S.!
Excellent video Steve here’s my comments. That’s a lovely lens you have there in a Syncro Compour shutter a service would sort that out. I’ve serviced plenty in my time. Still do to keep my hand in. I read a couple of comments saying flush with lighter fluid yes a short term solution but those fluids go everywhere blades etc. If you want to replace the bellows then I can recommend Custom Bellows in Birmingham UK. They also offer a fitting service for some models. Word of warning about buying bellows on line. Ensure they are the right thickness because if they are too thick the camera will not close. This also applies to Large Format field cameras. I have in my cupboard lots of donor shutters just in case my favourite lenses break down. So yes pick them up. Another word of warning about swapping lenses from one shutter to another.Lenses are factory set so the spacing between elements have the correct spacing. This important with wide angled lenses. I do buy some equipment ‘sold as seen’ but only something I can fix myself. I have seen some pretty awful selling. Dealers asking for a high price for faulty equipment eg a 121mm lens I saw recently with a faulty shutter for nearly £400!! The number of times I’ve had a camera or lens brought in to repair after buying from eBay is countless. A good money earner but not the point. If the unit is faulty the price should be reflected as such. If any of you want to try your own repairs take pictures at each stage just to remind you where that spring goes and a big magnet in case you drop something😀. Folders I love ‘em I giving my 6x9’s a clean soon. Like you Steve I just like to use them. If your folder does finally go to the camera shop in the sky perhaps think of converting it to a pinhole for a bit of fun.
Thanks William. I like to get my equipment properly serviced as I've wasted enough time (and photo opportunities) on faulty gear. I've heard of custom bellows, I think they made the ones for the old Bulldog 4x5 self build kit. That's an interesting point about lenses and shutters being matched and it makes a lot of sense. I remember a similar issue with Hasselblad backs and their 120 inserts, I was always careful not to mix them up. Recently I've noticed equipment described as Mint followed by comments such as 'the lens has some haze/fungus but shouldn't affect image quality'. Remarkable, I wonder what an 'E' rating would be like, no glass present probably! All the best Steve
Hi Steve Newton Ellis was in Victoria street next to NIP Photography where I had 14 years as studio photographer, I got to know Ian and Ray very well and still today Ray is a good friend and drinking partner. I still have the 40mm lens Hasselblad sold to me by Ray now used as a paper weight.
If you are mechanically inclined, you can have success fixing sticky shutters and focus mechanisms with a little lighter fluid and a bit of lubricant. I've also had good luck disassembling lenses to remove fog and fungus. I also have had great results buying from Japanese sellers. The cameras are as described and beautifully packed and shipped.
Your advice given here is as gold as gold Mr O'Nions. With regards to purchasing lenses and cameras from Japan the purchaser must also consider that their ' grading ' seems to be very different to ours and caution is the operative word here. Also, if the item has to be returned for refund the cost of the mail can be quite substantial. I have had one very good experience ( A Pentax 67, 75mm ) and one not so great ( a Nikkor lens described as mint but with a well used helicoil ) with buying from Japan. Have a great weekend.
The customs costs can be quite hefty but all things considered I’ve been very pleased with the descriptions given, the equipment is usually better than described 🙂
Great advice Steve....Interestingly Roger Hicks warned to steer clear of folders in his book on Medium and large format photography which was published way back in the early days of digital....I was tempted by Voightlander 6x9 but after your advice will think again. Always loved Bronicas but as you say they are getting old and I noticed very expensive ... so will stick with my Yashicamat TLR for now One thing that I have noticed regarding Japanese sellers is that many try to palm off the Bronica 2 as the more desirable 2A and you really neeeed to check the photos carefully. I do find your vlogs a refreshing change from the countless videos on digital photography with pictures so sharp that you feel your eyeballs peeling....In fact with all of the hype around mirrorless I find myself gravitating more back to film.....Great that there is somebody like yourself promoting the cause
Thanks Malcolm. I have the very same book from Roger and always found his approach very pragmatic. Whilst I still have a number of folders their only real advantage is how compact they are when folded. Actually using them is always a bit of a faff and accurate composition is a bit of a lottery.
There’s a great little device called the Photoplug from the guy that makes the Filmomat film processor, that you can plug into a phone to measure a camera/lens shutter speed with an app.
also, beware of all electronic camera like EOS system, great when they work but when they don't it's a bummer. i bought a "sold as seen" FOCA PF2 which a leica III frenche copy from the late 40"s early 50's. slow speeds were not really working and the telemeter wasn't precise below 3m, and it all got better as i used it. took 3 months maybe, but now it's an absolute wonder
Well said Steve. Two other good sources are keh camera in the US and kamera store in Europe. Both repair, service and check all cameras and lenses before sale. I have used both and there prices are good and there service is excellent.
Some very good advice in this Steve, especially the recommendation for Newton Ellis. I bit the bullet on my three folders and paid top money for cameras in very good condition, and so far I’ve had no issues. I do love the folding format for portability and image quality - my Zeiss Ikon Nettar produces stunning 6x6 images that almost have a 3D-like quality. Keep up the good work!
Got to love Newton Ellis Steve. They have kept my cameras and Lens' working for some time now. Before the Plague, I found it was cheaper to fly over into Liverpool, drop the camera/lens into cheapside and visit my Mum. She would pick it up and post it back.(Postage insurance is cheaper coming from UK to Ireland) Hopefully We wont have to go into self induced ostracism on return to Ireland soon. I have an FE2 which needs a little attention. Some good pointers and tips Steve, thank you. Cheers Diz
i have an OM3 (belonged to my grandad). used it for a while before the lightmeter eventually failed. the replacement pcbs dont exist anymore and very few people out there have the knowledge or equipment to fix them either. the battery drain is a pain too. luckily its a fully mechanical camera so these days i use it without batteries and an extrnal lightmeter.
I have to agree with your comment on Japanese sellers. I've purchased a few cameras from them now, mostly Nikon film cameras, and a couple of Mamiya's, both RB67's, and about half a dozen lenses as well. the only issue I've had so far was with a Nikon 200mm AI lens, in mint condition apart from the fact the grease must have been nearly solid in the helicoids and you couldnt focus it. I sent them a message and they gave me a refund that covered a service on the lens by my local camera shop, and I now have a beautiful lens to use.
Usually, i check the Light Seals, for Corrosion into the Battery Compartment, and if the Shutter Times running realistic...on a electronic shutter release SLR, this works usually, but they're being plagued by other stuff, like defect condesators, which needed being replaced, etc. Cleaning the Viewfinder, dedusting, etc.
I’ve been pretty lucky with most electronic cameras but older manual models can be problematic. Folders are a real gamble unless they come fully serviced from a dealer.
@@SteveONions Exactly my Experience, Steve. Old electronic SLRs fail, when a condensator, etc. is going bad, otherwise way precise. Old mechanical SLRs need often CLA, and being adjusted.
Several of my favorite cameras are pre-War folders -- generally I paid less than $20 each. On the other hand, I've done some work on them myself, so as not to pay someone else much more than the camera was worth to attempt to repair. Get one that works, and it'll be the lightest medium format you'll ever get. I do agree, though, getting one that works from eBay can be a bit of a gamble...
I have a Mamiya RZ67 that needs to be taken out and worked. I hope the shutters in the 3 lenses haven't been sitting too long. They were all working perfectly the last time I used them about 7 years ago.
@@SteveONions That's okay. I'm patient Good things are worth waiting for. Perhaps you could break it down into a few chapters: 35mm (SLR/rangefinder), medium format, large format, interesting accessories, workhorse favorites vs. regrettable purchases vs. good intentions. If nothing else, you'd have some great documentation for insurance purposes and we'd get more great videos from you.
My experience is also that Japanese sellers are good. Also german seller with good reputation have worked well. I have given up on getting perfect cameras. I expect to have to CLA them, and thus I have decided to start learning to do it myself. Maybe I'll fail at some point, but at least the investment was not big, but learning was worth it in the end. I did manage to fix my mechanical Minolta camera, so so far so good.
Great video for people just getting into film cameras. I use the Nikon F2 and FM-series cameras with great results. I second the buying from Japan. Especially during years when the exchange rate is on your country’s favor, you can get great deals.
Great job once again Steve. I agree with your advice about Japanese sellers, after many good deals over many years, I was burned twice in the last year. Also, a good point was to locate a good repair tech first, and inquire about what brands they like to service before you put your money down. All equipment that actually gets used requires service from time to time. I have even had a few of my Nikon cameras fail recently.
Spot on advice. My Nikon FE died when I was photographing our son’s wedding. (Fortunately I wasn’t the main photographer). I bought two replacements, and also a Nikon F2A, so that I have backups.
My original FE died in 1993 Neil and the repairer said it wasn't worth the repair bill. I now figure that one will die (or malfunction) every year or so and put another in the car whenever I go out.
Hi Steve, Great video, great advice. Another Nod for Newton Ellis (and especially Ian), who have serviced all sorts of cameras for me . However whilst they are a risk, folders are a good way to really learn how cameras work and a bad folder is a good opportunity to learn. Most stuck shutters are easily unstuck (contact cleaner and/or lighter fuel). Folders are like Lego, just replace bits if needed and each time the joy increases. The worst bellows are Agfa Isolettes (I-III) which almost always need replacing but most bellows just need some sort of black gloop or tape. Even making you own bellows isn't a crazy idea; that way you can chose your own colour or pattern. Sandeha Lynch (interested parties just Google him) sells new bellows in all colours and replacing them isn't rocket science (Isolettes are really easy, Records and Billy Records not much harder). A packet of small screwdrivers and and an Ebay lens spanner is all you need to take them apart; though putting them back together needs a bit more patience:-). Nothing is difficult if you have patience except getting the focus back right and there are plenty of sites that explain how to do it. Keep up the good work Steve
Thanks Phil, I’ve fixed a few old folder issues and I really should tackle more of them. I used to have an Isolette III which was fully refurbished with red leather bellows - lovely camera. BTW - it’s Ian who’s recently brought two of my SQA-I bodies back into fully working order 👍
Great video as always Steve. Phil, I currently have a Yashica Minister 700 with NE (and a Canon QL19 but it's too costly to be worth repairing sadly) and am looking forward to being able to use it once the work is done. There weren't a huge number of the 700's made so I would like to be responsible for keeping at least one of them in good working order. I also recently got an Agfa Isolette II which appears to be in decent working order and it came with a replacement bellows. A test roll will confirm that. At some point though, I may well see what it will cost for a proper CLA even if it is working okay.
Like to go for the dirt cheap stuff, atleast for SLRs. Had a bunch of cameras from the less attractive brands like Chinon etc and had very little issues with these. But stick with those with vertical metal shutter, very few of those that had any issues in my experience. While its been common for the horizontal cloth/rubber shutters to have problems.
I’ve used Newton Ellis, and they not only do a great job, they’re really friendly guys to deal with. As for Japanese eBay sellers, I’ve found them every bit as good as you say. I’ve bought cameras and lenses from them over a number of years, and have never had a problem. I bought two Nikon lenses, which arrived yesterday. One of them is nearly 50 years old, and is as new. The other dates from 1966, and the glass is in superb condition. Just be aware that shipping and customs duty can be quite substantial. I paid a total of just over £150 for the two lenses from two different dealers. Shipping amounted to just over £49, and customs duty and carrier handling fee added a further £34-odd. Having said that, the lenses were posted in Japan on Tuesday, and arrived yesterday (Friday).
I've also noticed the high import costs Neil and sometimes they vary considerably. I usually factor this in and it still works out as cheap for something which is in considerably better condition than a 'local' item.
Steve O'Nions Yes, those reasons are exactly why I buy from Japan. The 1966 lens is a Nikkor-P 105mm 2.5, pristine glass and very little wear mechanically or otherwise. . The other, in absolutely as new condition, is a Nikkor-Q 135mm 3.5. , for a selling price of £44.11, so even with the additional costs factored in, it’s a brilliant buy.
I bought and sold a lot of Cameras on eBay. The most important thing is you shouldn't buy anything that is offered as untested What is also very important is that the shipping is not too cheap, otherwise you will receive a camera that was in good condition at the time of the sale but gets then smashed by the Post.
but the thing that most people overlook is that the untested cameras are usually the treasures on youtube. you tend to get super smoking deals on cameras and most of them work just fine, but even the ones that dont can be very very easily repaired and cleaned without sending it to a shop.
I’m sure most lovers of the old cameras know this but it bares repeating, never store a leaf shutter lens with the mechanism cocked. Really that goes for all older cameras.
Fully agree with you :-) I collect camera's (I love em) But most have PTSD (age and misuse issues) Of which I'm slowly working through them to get them all working again :-)
Great info Steve, thanks. I've been looking to Japan for a Horseman 985 system for a while. Owned one back in the 70's and although it was a bit quirky and the lenses weren't super sharp, it's view camera functions, although somewhat limited, made for a great learning experience. A wonderful field camera. I eventually sold it to a photographer who had badgered me about selling it for a couple of years. I finally quoted him what I thought was a ridiculously high price and I've never seen anyone write a check so fast in my life. Ah, regrets.
Very useful information. I have a couple of FE's, Nikkormats, an F2's that are back ups. I do try to exercise the shutters every few months. I also have a 1914 Kodak folder that still works like a charm.
Thank you this is all good advice. Like you I use Newton Ellis and am impressed by their work. The last camera they serviced for me is my Agfa Super Isolette it has never worked so well. I am impressed by the quality of German cameras from teh 50's and 60's. I have several and only accident dammage causes the need for new parts, my Rolleiflex took a knock and bent the snail cams. Like you I regularly exercise the mechanisms in cameras I am not using and I follow advice I was given decades ago which is never leave a camera with its shutter cocked to preserve the springs.
I do the same Richard and never leave shutters cocked. The cameras from the 50’s seem particularly well made, a time before cheap manufacturing and built in obsolescence.
I use both Nikon and Canon film bodies. As a backup, I also carry along my Sony A7R2 with the appropriate adapter which allows me to use either manual lens system. Not to mention, the Sony is also nice and light...another benefit (as well as the in-body stabilization).
Good tips! I have had mostly good luck with Japan sellers on eBay. One thing I have noticed is their is a major drop off from a "mint" listing to E+++ (whatever). You need to really examine the photos and their wording or lack of what they mention., as you pointed out. I just had my F4 quit on me, so I bought another today. Hoping to get the other one fixed, because it's hard to look at it, as being a brick on the shelf.
Yes there is a lot more choice on eBay from sellers from Japan. I would like to buy but haven't a clue about import duty to the UK I wouldn't know where to start. Wanting a really mint Bronica S2A with tilt shift bellows + 40mm or 50mm lens
Great video and advice, I use PPP repairs and it's worth every penny to have any new purchase serviced, they are busy and you book in advance so at the moment I've always got a slot booked and send something off as soon as I get one back. Eventually everything will be 100 percent, that will be a nice feeling!
The slow timers on lenses are usually due to old grease that has thickened with age. Flush with lighter fluid and work the mechanism a bit and they often work just fine.
Also worth mentioning about buying stuff on eBay, at least over a certain value from Japan, is that it's subject to 20% VAT and some Import Duties on arrival in the UK. You might think you'll get away without having to pay it, but with a 'Mint' Nikon F3 camera I recently bought from Japan, I had to fork out another £120 representing the vat and import duties on the camera as well as a 'handling fee' payable to Parcelforce Worldwide before they would deliver it.
Every word is like my experience. My folders (Konica's 645) are now cute shelve antiques. And I don't think I am going to buy any folders for proper shooting. What I found out, that Mamiya RB 67 system and Fuji GW690 are the most reliable and satisfying for my purposes in medium format. But, as you, probably, noticed, my first love is the large format :) Great advise to people who wants to start experimenting with medium format!
I bought a Leica M5 once (used, from a dealer, described as Excellent Condition). It wasn't right even new, so I sent it back, they fixed it (I think they replaced the rangefinder patch), I got it back, I shot a couple of films and the shutter cloth mechanism broke. I sent it back again and to be fair to the dealer they did manage to get it repaired by having a part made. When I got it back the dealer said he wouldn't be stocking M5's any more because they are virtually impossible to get repaired. Lesson learnt, I sold it before it broke again!
That was a shame Glenn. Some models are notorious for their unreliability and a risky buy. I have rejected the idea of buying certain cameras for this reason alone Eg. Olympus SP.
@@SteveONions I have an Oly SP. It is a lovely camera but if it breaks, well, I guess it didn't cost me a fortune. The meter on it doesn't work as it is, but that's not an issue. I guess it's buyer beware in this game. It's still great fun using these old cameras though as you say.
@@SteveONions I bought an Olympus SP from a local dealer who assured me it had been cleaned and adjusted. That may well have been the truth as it worked fine, although I treat it with kid gloves, knowing the fragility of its workings. However, after a year or so the wind-on mechanism developed an intermittent slip fault. As I am handy with the tweezers and knowledgable with mechanisms, I was able to fix the problem by resetting the cogs and clutches in the base whilst cleaning the old gungy grease (CLA before purchase? I think not!) and applying tiny amounts of the proper lubricant. Not for the faint of heart. If in doubt, let an expert do it. NEVER be tempted to squirt WD40 into camera workings - you will make things ten times worse. I am well aware that if my at the moment much-loved SP develops an electronic fault then it is doomed. www.flickr.com/photos/hairyhippy/7250128208
NB: If you’re American, don’t put a torch in the vintage camera bellows. Use a flashlight. =p That one always throws me off. I’ve also had amazing luck with Japanese sellers. Most of what I’ve gotten has looked brand new. (Just make sure you check the descriptions - lots have fungus, but they disclose it generally.)
I thing the best 35mm cameras are the 90th cameras. They are cheap and absolutely the best about shutter, film loading, light meter etc. I bought a Nikon 90X for about 40 euros and it is a super camera. It costed over 1000 dollars in the 90th! Mechanical cameras are pure fascination but they have often problems and it is very important don't buy it online.
I recently purchased a Zeiss 250mm CF from Japan, advertised as mint, of course. I had it around for about two weeks before taking it into the field. The first time that I tried to use it, it may have turned 10 degrees onto the camera body , then stopped. When I got home, I noticed the slot on the back wasn't perfectly aligned with the dot. I turned it a bit in the direction of the arrow, and the lens did attach. So, next trip, I mounted the lens, looked through the viewfinder, and it was dark. Lens cap WAS removed; it turned out that the leaf shutter was stuck. So, I contacted the seller and began discussing what action to take. He blamed me for not knowing how to use the lens. He said, "We recommend that you learn how to use products you buy." After I appealed to eBay, he agreed to a return. (He wasn't going to accept the lens back unless it was working, but decided to relent on that policy.) There was another copy of the 250 in his store. I offered an exchange; it was the same price, and had precisely the same photos as mine, down to the smudges on the barrel! (eBay said that's OK.) He said he just wanted the defective one returned immediately. So, I canceled the return and have sent the lens to a good repair shop in New England. This way I'll know I have a good CLA'd working copy, or will have a warranty in place if it isn't. This was, however, quite an untypical result with my purchases from Japan. The gear is usually in great condition.
I had a similar experience with a 20mm f/4 Nikkor and refused to send it back as he wanted me to cover all the postage costs. Got it serviced locally and it’s as good as new. Have him a bad review and chalked it up to simple bad luck.
I bought a Voigtlander Perkeo 1 folder super cheap just to display next to my Minolta XG-1, but after I got it, and gave it a thorough looking over, other than the slower shutter speed at greater than 1/30-sec. it seems to be in working order. I would like to drop a roll of film in it to just check it, but I doubt I would ever use it much. I'm holding out for a TLR or even a Bronica 6x6 or somesuch. For myself, it seems to make less sense to shoot 35mm than medium format. Scanning 35mm again kind of gives me hives just thinking about ;-)
The folders can deliver very high quality Jon, even the basic ones but you need the right subjects and plenty of patience. The system SLR's like the Bronica are very flexible but also very heavy.
Bought my Yashica 12 for $75. I had it CLA'd after I dropped it in a stream. That cost me $195, but now I have a 60 year old camera that works like new. Actually taking it out today to make a video.
I think the repairs are worth it for the right camera John, if you keep it many years then the overall cost is still low compared to any digital camera.
Some great advice - thank you. I started by setting myself the goal of replacing the cameras I'd used or owned since I first began taking photographs back in the 50s. Brownie 127, Zenit E, Nikkormat FT3. I still have the Canon A1 I traded in my FT3 for (the things you regret later!). Along the way, the Nikkormat mutated into a Nikon FM, when the scarcity and price of the FT3 made it difficult to find a good copy ... and then there are the cameras I wished I'd owned, or which I'm drawn to for other reasons. Long story short, I have acquired another handful of cameras. My one stipulation being that I must be able to use the camera. I've only ever bought from eBay and only from UK sellers with good reputations. I feel I have better rights should I need to return anything. The thought of returning something to Japan is not something I'd want to do! As it happens, I've gotten away with it so far: the only issue being a couple of cameras needing new light seals, which I'm happy to do.
Good UK sellers are pretty safe and I’m happy to buy from the likes of Real Camera who properly describe the equipment. I’d quite like an FT3 with its ability to use Ai lenses 🙂
good breakdown of the pitfalls of old film cameras! I'd to add watch out for the film the camera uses and make sure they still make it nowadays. Also, cameras from more humid areas are more potentially prone to catching a fungus, nevertheless my experience with camera gear from Japan has been very good as well.
Hello Steve, I very much enjoy and am inspired by your many videos. I have a Nikon 810 and several old AI and AIs prime lenses which I love using on it. From you videos, I have now ordered a FE2; looked for FE but saw FE2 at a reasonable price from a reliable dealer for my first purchase of film camera to see how I get on. I dont have darkroom, so will have to send off for developing.
As you said, always carry two cameras with you. Especially if it's work related. Also new cameras fail, and next morning they may be as new again, but they often fail when you really need them. Murphy's law.
I must say that everything I have bought from Japan (so far, more purchases being considered) have been in better condition than described, most recently my Pentax Spotmeter which is pretty well mint. However the delivery time was very slow, over a month with delays both at the Japan and UK end due to the Pandemic.
I’ve also had waits of up to a month but it’s still worthwhile if I plan on keeping a camera for a long time. I used to be happy to sell cameras I wasn’t using but I’m now more inclined to hang onto the good ones even if they go unused for a couple of years, finding good examples is getting harder.
With very old camera, make sure about the film format they use. some camera look like 120 format camera, but they are not. I once bought a Yashica TLR 160 format camera thinking it was a 120 format camera. It is now sitting on my furniture as vintage decoration. Lesson learned
@@SteveONions No problem at all to do! 127 and 620 film looks to be making a comeback. Shanghai Film has already done test runs of both which sold out quite quickly, I was lucky enough to buy the last 620 in the UK, and three rolls of 127. I also reroll or recut obscure film formats, including 828, making and marking the backing papers is the biggest chore.
Great advice. It's tough when getting cameras and equipment sight- unseen, or at least untested.I have had the worse luck in terms of operating cameras, with the 35mm models from the 1980s -- where the electronics are essential for all/most of the camera operations. Best luck with the 35mm and medium format cameras of the 1940s-early 1970s -- where the only electronics are the light meter, and if that does not work, I have a handheld which works fine. As you noted, sometimes the mechanical functions are sluggish, but can be improved through use and extremely careful cleaning and relubrication. And folders -- yeah, I love the look -- but I have a bunch where mechanically they are OK, but fixing pinholes in the bellows is frustrating. Luckily a lot of the old box cameras and pseudo-TLR cameras tend to hold up and work well, but of course the optical quality of those tend to be mediocre. But if that is the look that you are going for -- those cameras tend to be inexpensive. I do love the look of box camera photos on Ektar 100 -- they look vintage and modern in terms of the color/grain, all at the same time. Thanks Steve!
Thanks Aengus. The design of a camera definitely has a big impact on durability and it’s no wonder the delicate folders fare badly. The more rigid TLR is quite the opposite in my experience and once the shutters are serviced that run well for years.
@@SteveONions -- Unfortunately the best and functioning TLRs can be pretty expensive!!! I try to budget no more than $50 (including shipping) for a vintage camera -- which is probably why 33% are DOA and I cannot resurrect them! If you happen to have a really good TLR, that works, that you don't need anymore -- just let me know!!! But I'd love to see you go out and shoot a 120 roll in an old box camera and see how your landscape shots come out -- I bet that they would be great, and have a unique character that the camera imparts.
Now I’ve got a good TLR I’m hanging on to it, I’ve had quite a few in the past that needed servicing but I didn’t want to spend on them. I think a box camera could make very good landscapes indeed 👍
@@SteveONions -- Well, I have way too many (box cameras) -- I'd be happy to send you one of my *620* ones!!! I have gotten 120-rerolled-to-620 from the Film Photography Project before, and even tried it myself (it's not that difficult), but I have noticed a little more scratches/lint on the rerolled film than on "virgin" 120 rolls. But it's not the end of the world! If you are interested one (or more!) of my excess box cameras (I have a huge 116 as well!) -- let me know and we'll work it out!
I’ll take you up on that kind offer one day Aengus but I’m too busy to even use some of my own cameras at the moment - as the speed of my replies probably gives away! Thanks as always and keep in touch 👍😊
anyone in the usa, keh.com is my favorite place to buy used film gear. the shipping outside the usa may make them to expensive, but i get tons of stuff from them, 180 day warranty on used stuff and they are very customer friendly with any problems ive ever had.
So, that's why I have 2 or three of each of the Canon "A" series. Either that, or it's the excuse I tell my wife why I have so many. Having a hard time coming up with the excuse of the need for another Bronica SQ body, though. Oh the tangled web we weave...
NIce upload Steve, some excellent advice there, pretty much accords with everything I know/have experienced with my old film bodies etc. As you say, exercising those lenses and bodies is absolutely key to keeping them in good shape.
That Nikkormat you showed at 5:18 is not an FS (without metering) Rather it is an FT with mercury battery. So - it is more or less useless as there are no battery replacements worth buyin. West have an air/zink repleacement but it last only a few weeks!!
Thanks Steve, useful and important discussion 👍 My tip always use the recommended battery (were possible) I used NiMH in my Canon 1n and it blew the electronics in grip.
Its actually the batteries they discharge in an initial spike which can cause problems. Zine carbon is a much more gentle supply i think, i have tried lithium in some devices.
The nice thing about folders is they’re so simple they’re pretty easy to repair. I bought a couple of zeiss ones for 10-20 quid that were listed as shot and serviced the shutters. It’s always either a fungus filled lens, ruined bellows (leather actually is usually the most resilient) and/or dried lubricants in the shutter. Sometimes you just can’t save them but usually with a few hours and patience you can have them almost as good as new. With your comment on Japanese sellers, according to Bellamy hunt of japan camera hunter there are apparently a lot of Chinese sellers now selling from japan and often they are selling less reliable or downright broken gear but it’s very hard to tell which those are on eBay.
That's interesting what you say about eBay sellers, I was shocked when the equipment arrived last year and was nothing like the advertisement. One refused any refund and wanted me to pay the shipping and import duties so I just left negative feedback and had it repaired locally.
Thats interesting. i alway thought whats going on when there is one article (e.g. 6x17 panorama adapter for 4x5) was offered by different sellers. But they use all the same picture and the description is almost identically. A little bit suspect…
I buy Agfa Isolettes and Record III’s. and then install new bellows. For 35mm I buy Kodak Retinas. Pocket folding cameras in 35mm and medium format are great.
I bought a very cheap 6x6 folding camera (agfa isolette)... well... Let's just say I won't ever buy a cheap one. It was a waste of money. I agree with japanese stores, I never had a problem with them (cheaper than in France, even with postage, and quicker to arrive...).
Here in USA camera repair is pretty nonexistent. Some mail in centers, they are pricey. My friend's father had a repair shop in Long Island, New York. He closed his shop in the 1990s. He said the new electronic cameras were built to be unrepairable. He didn't even survive into the digital age. I have a Yashicamat TLR and an Isolette II that I am ready to film test. I did buy on eBay but I got two bad cameras before I got one that seems to be good.
EBay can be a real lottery but I’ve been pleased with many of them. The more reliable models are obviously less risky whereas finding an older folder in full working order is highly unlikely unless it is from a dealer.
Sadly, living on the post-soviet area, make things a lot more harder. Usual affordable western cameras and lenses very often if not always is overpriced (sometimes ridiculously), there's little to no repair shops, and the majority of options is old soviet lens and cameras, which might be overpriced without any reason at all (yeah, I'm looking at you, Helios 40-2), and despite the really cheap prices (from less than $10) it's usually a gamble, you may have a brick on your hands even if it worked couple days ago just fine. And even you have funds and was able to find decent Leica/Hasselblad deal, you're on your own from this point, because again, no repair shops aside from Moscow, maybe, but even then "you need to know a guy who knows a guy who really knows this camera system" in order to have just competent service. Because all of this I'm not even considering buying a camera in Russia, and I wanna 4x5, which is very few options in my city, the monopoly of moderate variety of assortment belongs to Moscow. Ordering from Ebay (or from elsewhere) is not an option as well, you're forced to pay pretty high duty fee at Russian customs from purchases more than 200 euros. Which isn't a problem itself, the problem is that they requires your physical appearance at the customs, which usually hundreds of kilometres away.
Wow, I had no idea of those problems, that really does limit your access to decent camera equipment. I guess we are a lot luckier even with the import costs as we can have equipment shipped straight to our address after paying the fees online. I suppose the 4x5 option would be best as repairs are a lot easier to make yourself once you have decent lenses.
I can't disagree more with your recommendation to go only with verified dealers. I've had great luck with independent sellers on ebay, so long as you're willing to do the due dilligence and know what to look for. You are absolutely correct that you have to carefully read the description and look through the images provided to assess what the seller is and isn't willing to say. If they don't say it and it isn't visible in the photos, you can get a refund on ebay. Thus, most ebay sellers, even if they're sleazeballs who want to bilk you, will either provide a photo that makes clear the issues you may face, or will mention the issue. In the low to middle end, there are great deals on "condition unknown" or "untested" cameras, if you're willing to work around the weirdness. I bought my super ikonta for $100. It has some minor haze and the speeds are only a suggestion, but I'd rather have that and $200 than a CLA'd, minty Super Ikonta. I bought my Pentax 67 body for $100 recently. It's a bit of a basket case (repaired shutter curtains from a jam, uneven shutter at slower speeds, the shutter speed detents are stripped so it can get caught 'between' speeds and lock the shutter open) but I'd much rather have that and $600 of lenses than a "good" one that could just as easily break on me. You're absolutely correct that old camera gear can break on you at any time, but that's precisely why I'd recommend against paying a premium for really nice examples that have been well maintained. You're much better off, as you _also_ recommended, buying 2 or 3 of the same body and just expecting them to break periodically, and hoping to scavenge parts off them to keep a small 'fleet' going.
I'm not prepared to risk losing images due to clapped out cameras, much better to pay more and have it fully functional. There's also the resale value, good ones are going to increase in price considerably more than junk.
The price of film cameras is going through the roof. Strange thing is, the cheaper film cameras are usually the late 90s SLRs which are more plasticky but probably are the most reliable film cameras.
Steve O'Nions I have a Nikon F80 too! That is a lovely camera. I prefer it to the bigger and bulkier F100. It’s far technically superior to a vintage SLR and so cheap to buy. Altho I do see the appeal of vintage cameras. I also have a Canon AE1 Program which I love.
"Reputable repairman"? From a several of them in the past, there's only one, yes ONE that actually still works in my city, who is willing to repair old cameras. And even he can only do so much if he doesn't have spare parts. Situation is not much better in big repair shops, there's Canons as well as Nikons shop. Recently I needed to repair one modern Canon autofocus lens (an L lens mind you), but the support (i.e. production of spare parts) stopped 7 years ago. So I needed to wait for 2 months until the shop find that missing part on another side of Europe...
Hi Steve! I've been thinking of getting I to the Bronica SQ system but people have told me to stay away due to it being electronic and the fact that repairs are hard to find for that system. Any thoughts on that as a heavy user of the system? Thanks.
AnchorTH I wouldn’t let the electronics stop you from your purchase. I have been using bronica’s for 40 years and never had an issue with the SQ models. The good thing though, if one does fail, buying a separate body is so inexpensive compared to some of the other brands. For me the build quality and the image quality are what sells me on this camera. There is a reason they are called the “Japanese Hasselblad” or the “ Nikon of medium format”.
Bronica are nice cameras, I'd love an SQ setup but already have an ETRSi kit. Build quality is excellent, image quality is superb and I've not had any reliability issues in the 3 or so years that I've owned mine. Any old camera is a risk, just do your homework and buy the best you can afford. If it doesn't look too abused it should be fine.
Why are some reflex that they cost like news ,For exemple ,Olympus om 1 is one of the most expensive of the OM series,the Fm2 is more expensive than the FM3.All the numbers are from Ebay
My experience with Japanese camera shops that sell on ebay has been very positive. As you mentioned the Japanese really care for their cameras. All the equipment I bought from a Japanese camera shop via ebay has been better than it was described. Remarkably clean and working well. But as you said the equipment is old and it can break.
Completely agree.
A draw back to buying a camera from Japan is the shipping cost can be pricey and there’s almost no tracking until it lands in the US.
That’s true, I expect to pay about %25 extra for import duties but if I get a good camera it’s worth it.
@@dflf I'm from México and all the cameras I've bought from japanese vendors have had cheaper shipping prices than the ones offered by vendors in the US. I've even got some with free shipping, and all with good tracking service.
God knows why is that...
Lucky you 😀👍
Great video. I live in Japan and I have to say sellers in Japan are very good, but be careful this days there is sellers from other country that say they are from Japan and the quality is not good. So double check that the store is really from Japan.
I think I’ve been a victim of this sadly and now check very carefully before buying. Glad to say I’ve just received another camera from Japan and the condition is better than described.
Everything you mentioned about film cameras is true especially sourcing a mint one from a 100% feedback seller from Japan. Having said all that in most cases all is not lost if a film camera goes faulty where as a digital camera is straight in the bin and having to buy a new one.
Very true, it’s likely that a film camera can be repaired or even soldier on even with significant defects.
Great points Steve! I have had great success with reputable camera dealer here in the the U.S. and the dealers in Japan on eBay. However, I say buyer beware on the famous e auction site. I bought a Ricoh 500 rangefinder, beautiful for 139.95, advertised as working. I attempted to load film and the shutter locked up. I contacted the seller, no credit or refund, but directed me to his l repair person, I did my research and alot of complaints about the repair shop. Then I found a repair facility on the west coast, I sent it there. The repair tech checked it out and said this camera is not repairable asked if I wanted it back or junked. I said junk it. So on the auction site, buyer beware.
Sad but true. I had a lens described as mint that had so much fungus I could barely see through it!
About four years ago I bought a Hasselblad mint condition really looked like new 503 cxi with 50mm lens from Japan. I had a CLA and new seals put in once I received it. Total cost camera and CLA + was right about $2000 but at age 52 back then I knew it is a camera I will shoot the rest of my life so it was worth it to me. What a gem it is I have shot so many rolls of film through it and taken it on so many long road trips. It has become a trusted old friend
Don’t sell it Terry, I parted with my 501CM in 2012 - doh!
Totally agree about ebay, I bought three 50mm Nikor lenses (mint-) all of which were returned. Repurchased from Japanese sellers along with many other items all mint in 'as new' condition and very well packaged. It's worth paying the extra, including duty (approx 28%) to get the top condition. I was very disappointed with UK sellers as from my experience they are very short on the truth, "buyer beware".
Same for me Stephen, even with all the extra costs they are worth it.
Excellent video, especially the warning in terms of sellers who offer garbage as "mint" or "excellent" quality and state that they cannot say anything about the equipment because they have no clue about photography and want to sell it "as is". As a buyer you will have no kind of warranty and no chance to return it.
I prefer to go through dealers even if the cost is a little higher (and it often isn’t).
@@SteveONions Yep, fully true. If you buy cheap, you often pay twice.
With the electronic parts of cameras, I don't mind tinkering with them. I can usually rebuild PCB boards and know my way around electrical parts. But, I do usually go for the purely mechanical cameras as they are more reliable in the long run. However, once they outlive their usefulness, I don't throw them away. I keep them and put them on display, much like I used to collect rocks and such (I'm a geologist by profession). However, a good, reliable repair shop is a must. If you can find one that doesn't charge like a wounded bull, even better. Like you said, you have to be careful on the likes of Ebay, but there are good and reputable sellers on there that will do good deals with camera equipment. I've been lucky to find a few that I trust, but I've also come across some pretty dodgy characters as well. Not long ago had to chase one down to get my money refunded from and Ebay has banned that seller, now. Even with brand new stuff, you have to keep an eye on who you're dealing with. Your best bet is to go with sites like B&H, KEH and the like when it comes to buying camera equipment from online retailers.
Thanks Carl. I have used a few sellers over the years who I'm happy to go back to, I'm very cautious of those who have any negative feedback or don't sell many cameras.
I’m a Cannon guy so I’d suggest the A series with their FD lenses. They’re well made and versatile with manual and auto settings. They were very popular so there’s a lot of them out there. And as a plus you can still buy the 6v batteries that power them.
I had a good collection of FD lenses a few years ago, nice and compact too 👍
Excellent video and advice.
I use Olympus om1n,,om2n and a om4ti for 35mm.
And a broncos ertrs,,and a Kiev 88 TTL also a Fuji 6x9 for medium format.
As for digital I have a Fujifilm x100 for my pocket camera..
Alan.
Thanks Alan, what a lovely collection of cameras 🙂
THANK YOU! As a lover of old cameras I'm grateful to you for. Your support. A great video for the newcomer.
Thanks David 👍
As for me, not shying away from doing a simple repair myself, I tend to look for repair manuals online for the cameras I own or am looking for. For example, when my Mamiya RB67 arrived, it was perfect (I tend to look for japanese sellers for these systems as well), but after a few days the shutter just jammed completely with nothing that could be done. I found a repair manual for the body (it wasn't the lens, luckily), got it open and inspected the internal mechanisms, which was fascinating. By slightly bending the correct parts I got it working perfectly after some time without destroying it. I also managed to lube the rotating back mechanism myself and to fix the counter on one of my backs, so now it's in perfect working order. If you attempt this I highly recommend taking a good look at the repair schematics and manuals and having a bit of confidence in your technical skill. With the right tools (in this case it was mostly small screwdrivers and tweezers) some repairs can be done yourself. But if you have a good repairshop that you trust, that's probably almost always the better option, because they are far more experienced.
As to you, Steve, I thoroughly enjoy your videos, this one as well! Keep it up!
Thanks Marvin. I've done a few repair jobs myself and will often buy a donor body for this purpose but I find my lack of time is hampering me in this area. I'll probably do a lot more when work isn't getting in the way, it's very satisfying.
These days the good & reputable repair shops are in need of our support! I hope their training younger folk to follow in their footsteps!
I have generally had quite good luck with Japanese sellers but a few things I've noticed: 1) Ignore the title of the listing, you may see "near mint" and then find out in the description that the self timer doesn't work and there's 'thin fungus' in the viewfinder. Use the titles to filter down, but then pay no mind to them to make a decision 2) I find regardless of the title the detailed descriptions tend to be accurate, but notice what isn't mentioned. If you see 3 listings from the same seller and 2 say "No fungus" but the 3rd doesn't mention fungus at all might be a good thing to ask about 3) Take those detailed descriptive comments and set them aside while you look at the photos. I'll see 9 listings mentioning 'minor dings' and they will noted in the photos and will indeed be minor, and then the 10th item's 'minor ding' will be a badly dented filter on the front of a lens or something else that isn't so minor afterall.
Good advice, I’ve noticed these things too so with care it’s possible to find the real gems 👍
Another happy customer of Newton Ellis here (I'll be sending them a brace of Olympus OM2n bodies very soon). Alan Starkie at CameraWorks-UK did a splendid refurb job on my Leica M2, so now I have a 60 year-old Leica which I bought in rough shape, that is almost like new. With the old, basically mechanical mainstream stuff I'd have no fear of buying cheap and factoring in a repair or service. This is a great guide Steve.
Thanks Chris. I’ve got to the stage where I’m prepared to send off most of the second hard cameras I buy for a CLA even if they work OK on arrival. I like the peace of mind from having something that’s been properly checked over.
@@SteveONions Yes, me too. Apparently Ffordes use Newton Ellis for some of their repairs and servicing too, so there's another recommendation.
High praise indeed, I’ve always liked Ffordes.
Very helpful video thanks
I use a 1937 Rolleiflex 3.5 often and I paid 50p for it and it works fine.
Great advice too
I must have over 90 cameras
Good stuff!
the really great thing about the old film cameras is the same thing as the negatives you listed, they are easily repairable and it can be done by anybody that has patience. Bellows are very easy to make yourself, so buying a camera with compromised bellows is a great way to get a good deal on a camera.
Thanks for your insights and sound advice! It's easy to tell which cameras and sellers are preferred just by the prices! They're really going up fast here in there U.S.!
Same over here and accessories for the likes of medium format cameras have become prohibitively costly.
Excellent video Steve here’s my comments. That’s a lovely lens you have there in a Syncro Compour shutter a service would sort that out. I’ve serviced plenty in my time. Still do to keep my hand in. I read a couple of comments saying flush with lighter fluid yes a short term solution but those fluids go everywhere blades etc. If you want to replace the bellows then I can recommend Custom Bellows in Birmingham UK. They also offer a fitting service for some models. Word of warning about buying bellows on line. Ensure they are the right thickness because if they are too thick the camera will not close. This also applies to Large Format field cameras. I have in my cupboard lots of donor shutters just in case my favourite lenses break down. So yes pick them up. Another word of warning about swapping lenses from one shutter to another.Lenses are factory set so the spacing between elements have the correct spacing. This important with wide angled lenses. I do buy some equipment ‘sold as seen’ but only something I can fix myself. I have seen some pretty awful selling. Dealers asking for a high price for faulty equipment eg a 121mm lens I saw recently with a faulty shutter for nearly £400!! The number of times I’ve had a camera or lens brought in to repair after buying from eBay is countless. A good money earner but not the point. If the unit is faulty the price should be reflected as such. If any of you want to try your own repairs take pictures at each stage just to remind you where that spring goes and a big magnet in case you drop something😀. Folders I love ‘em I giving my 6x9’s a clean soon. Like you Steve I just like to use them. If your folder does finally go to the camera shop in the sky perhaps think of converting it to a pinhole for a bit of fun.
Thanks William. I like to get my equipment properly serviced as I've wasted enough time (and photo opportunities) on faulty gear. I've heard of custom bellows, I think they made the ones for the old Bulldog 4x5 self build kit.
That's an interesting point about lenses and shutters being matched and it makes a lot of sense. I remember a similar issue with Hasselblad backs and their 120 inserts, I was always careful not to mix them up.
Recently I've noticed equipment described as Mint followed by comments such as 'the lens has some haze/fungus but shouldn't affect image quality'. Remarkable, I wonder what an 'E' rating would be like, no glass present probably!
All the best
Steve
Hi Steve Newton Ellis was in Victoria street next to NIP Photography where I had 14 years as studio photographer, I got to know Ian and Ray very well and still today Ray is a good friend and drinking partner. I still have the 40mm lens Hasselblad sold to me by Ray now used as a paper weight.
Thanks John, I didn’t realise they weren’t in Cheapside originally. When did they move?
I think it’s 15 years or more since Victoria street
That’s close to when I first started using them.
If you are mechanically inclined, you can have success fixing sticky shutters and focus mechanisms with a little lighter fluid and a bit of lubricant. I've also had good luck disassembling lenses to remove fog and fungus. I also have had great results buying from Japanese sellers. The cameras are as described and beautifully packed and shipped.
You’re right Curtis, a bit of lighter fluid carefully applied can work wonders.
I love old cameras! I shoot Minolta's, Mamiya RB67's and baby Graflex's. I also recommend Pentax Spotmatics. Your video is solid with good advice!
Thanks David 🙂
Your advice given here is as gold as gold Mr O'Nions. With regards to purchasing lenses and cameras from Japan the purchaser must also consider that their ' grading ' seems to be very different to ours and caution is the operative word here. Also, if the item has to be returned for refund the cost of the mail can be quite substantial. I have had one very good experience ( A Pentax 67, 75mm ) and one not so great ( a Nikkor lens described as mint but with a well used helicoil ) with buying from Japan. Have a great weekend.
The customs costs can be quite hefty but all things considered I’ve been very pleased with the descriptions given, the equipment is usually better than described 🙂
Great advice Steve....Interestingly Roger Hicks warned to steer clear of folders in his book on Medium and large format photography which was published way back in the early days of digital....I was tempted by Voightlander 6x9 but after your advice will think again. Always loved Bronicas but as you say they are getting old and I noticed very expensive ... so will stick with my Yashicamat TLR for now One thing that I have noticed regarding Japanese sellers is that many try to palm off the Bronica 2 as the more desirable 2A and you really neeeed to check the photos carefully. I do find your vlogs a refreshing change from the countless videos on digital photography with pictures so sharp that you feel your eyeballs peeling....In fact with all of the hype around mirrorless I find myself gravitating more back to film.....Great that there is somebody like yourself promoting the cause
Thanks Malcolm. I have the very same book from Roger and always found his approach very pragmatic. Whilst I still have a number of folders their only real advantage is how compact they are when folded. Actually using them is always a bit of a faff and accurate composition is a bit of a lottery.
There’s a great little device called the Photoplug from the guy that makes the Filmomat film processor, that you can plug into a phone to measure a camera/lens shutter speed with an app.
That sounds very useful Mark, thanks for the info 👍
also, beware of all electronic camera like EOS system, great when they work but when they don't it's a bummer. i bought a "sold as seen" FOCA PF2 which a leica III frenche copy from the late 40"s early 50's. slow speeds were not really working and the telemeter wasn't precise below 3m, and it all got better as i used it. took 3 months maybe, but now it's an absolute wonder
Well said Steve. Two other good sources are keh camera in the US and kamera store in Europe. Both repair, service and check all cameras and lenses before sale. I have used both and there prices are good and there service is excellent.
Thanks Phillip, I've heard a lot of good things about Kamerastore.
Some very good advice in this Steve, especially the recommendation for Newton Ellis. I bit the bullet on my three folders and paid top money for cameras in very good condition, and so far I’ve had no issues. I do love the folding format for portability and image quality - my Zeiss Ikon Nettar produces stunning 6x6 images that almost have a 3D-like quality. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Steven. I think it’s worth paying more for a top notch camera and a lot cheaper in the long run.
Love putting Nikon AIS primes on my FX digital SLR. Hard to beat and I manage without autofocus.
Those older lenses do have a certain look that’s hard to explain (but works so well).
Got to love Newton Ellis Steve. They have kept my cameras and Lens' working for some time now. Before the Plague, I found it was cheaper to fly over into Liverpool, drop the camera/lens into cheapside and visit my Mum. She would pick it up and post it back.(Postage insurance is cheaper coming from UK to Ireland) Hopefully We wont have to go into self induced ostracism on return to Ireland soon. I have an FE2 which needs a little attention. Some good pointers and tips Steve, thank you.
Cheers
Diz
They fixed up two of my FE2’s last year Diz along with an FE, good as new now. I’m lucky to live less than an hour away from them.
i have an OM3 (belonged to my grandad). used it for a while before the lightmeter eventually failed. the replacement pcbs dont exist anymore and very few people out there have the knowledge or equipment to fix them either. the battery drain is a pain too. luckily its a fully mechanical camera so these days i use it without batteries and an extrnal lightmeter.
As you say, you now have a fully manual camera - just add one of those little hotshoe meters and it’ll serve for many years 😊
I have to agree with your comment on Japanese sellers. I've purchased a few cameras from them now, mostly Nikon film cameras, and a couple of Mamiya's, both RB67's, and about half a dozen lenses as well. the only issue I've had so far was with a Nikon 200mm AI lens, in mint condition apart from the fact the grease must have been nearly solid in the helicoids and you couldnt focus it. I sent them a message and they gave me a refund that covered a service on the lens by my local camera shop, and I now have a beautiful lens to use.
You’ve had better luck than me, the last few purchases were a mixed bag sadly 🙁
@@SteveONions Sorry to hear that, hope your next ones are better.
Usually, i check the Light Seals, for Corrosion into the Battery Compartment, and if the Shutter Times running realistic...on a electronic shutter release SLR, this works usually, but they're being plagued by other stuff, like defect condesators, which needed being replaced, etc. Cleaning the Viewfinder, dedusting, etc.
I’ve been pretty lucky with most electronic cameras but older manual models can be problematic. Folders are a real gamble unless they come fully serviced from a dealer.
@@SteveONions Exactly my Experience, Steve. Old electronic SLRs fail, when a condensator, etc. is going bad, otherwise way precise. Old mechanical SLRs need often CLA, and being adjusted.
I have my great-grandfather's Kodak folding camera and I've been dying to put some 120 film through it.
I hope it still works Joel, it’s amazing what can be achieved with them.
Several of my favorite cameras are pre-War folders -- generally I paid less than $20 each. On the other hand, I've done some work on them myself, so as not to pay someone else much more than the camera was worth to attempt to repair. Get one that works, and it'll be the lightest medium format you'll ever get. I do agree, though, getting one that works from eBay can be a bit of a gamble...
I'm prepared to pay for good ones now as unlike 10 years ago there are few bargains left. Back before 2010 I had some great folders for under £20.
@@SteveONions Very true. I've been contemplating paying $200 for a Moskva 5 to replace the one I shouldn't have sold fifteen years ago...
I have a Mamiya RZ67 that needs to be taken out and worked. I hope the shutters in the 3 lenses haven't been sitting too long. They were all working perfectly the last time I used them about 7 years ago.
They should be fine Alan, later lenses seem to hold up well over time. I’ve used ones from the Bronica range that have sat for years with no problems.
Thanks for the advice. I would love it if you gave us a tour through your camera collection with commentary and preferences.
That might take a while Bob 😀
@@SteveONions That's okay. I'm patient Good things are worth waiting for. Perhaps you could break it down into a few chapters: 35mm (SLR/rangefinder), medium format, large format, interesting accessories, workhorse favorites vs. regrettable purchases vs. good intentions. If nothing else, you'd have some great documentation for insurance purposes and we'd get more great videos from you.
That’s a good point 🙂
Steven I’ve always enjoyed your vlogs but this one has been superbly inspirational. Thanx
You’re welcome Frank 🙂
My experience is also that Japanese sellers are good. Also german seller with good reputation have worked well. I have given up on getting perfect cameras. I expect to have to CLA them, and thus I have decided to start learning to do it myself. Maybe I'll fail at some point, but at least the investment was not big, but learning was worth it in the end. I did manage to fix my mechanical Minolta camera, so so far so good.
It's a good feeling when you can fix something yourself, not that likely with today's camera's 😊
Great video for people just getting into film cameras. I use the Nikon F2 and FM-series cameras with great results. I second the buying from Japan. Especially during years when the exchange rate is on your country’s favor, you can get great deals.
Thanks Zach, something special about the old Nikons.
Great job once again Steve. I agree with your advice about Japanese sellers, after many good deals over many years, I was burned twice in the last year. Also, a good point was to locate a good repair tech first, and inquire about what brands they like to service before you put your money down. All equipment that actually gets used requires service from time to time. I have even had a few of my Nikon cameras fail recently.
I think we sometimes forget how old the equipment is Jon, I still consider my Bronica SQA-I as quite new but it’s probably 30 years old now.
Spot on advice. My Nikon FE died when I was photographing our son’s wedding. (Fortunately I wasn’t the main photographer). I bought two replacements, and also a Nikon F2A, so that I have backups.
My original FE died in 1993 Neil and the repairer said it wasn't worth the repair bill. I now figure that one will die (or malfunction) every year or so and put another in the car whenever I go out.
Hi Steve,
Great video, great advice. Another Nod for Newton Ellis (and especially Ian), who have serviced all sorts of cameras for me . However whilst they are a risk, folders are a good way to really learn how cameras work and a bad folder is a good opportunity to learn. Most stuck shutters are easily unstuck (contact cleaner and/or lighter fuel). Folders are like Lego, just replace bits if needed and each time the joy increases. The worst bellows are Agfa Isolettes (I-III) which almost always need replacing but most bellows just need some sort of black gloop or tape. Even making you own bellows isn't a crazy idea; that way you can chose your own colour or pattern. Sandeha Lynch (interested parties just Google him) sells new bellows in all colours and replacing them isn't rocket science (Isolettes are really easy, Records and Billy Records not much harder). A packet of small screwdrivers and and an Ebay lens spanner is all you need to take them apart; though putting them back together needs a bit more patience:-). Nothing is difficult if you have patience except getting the focus back right and there are plenty of sites that explain how to do it. Keep up the good work Steve
Thanks Phil, I’ve fixed a few old folder issues and I really should tackle more of them. I used to have an Isolette III which was fully refurbished with red leather bellows - lovely camera.
BTW - it’s Ian who’s recently brought two of my SQA-I bodies back into fully working order 👍
Great video as always Steve.
Phil, I currently have a Yashica Minister 700 with NE (and a Canon QL19 but it's too costly to be worth repairing sadly) and am looking forward to being able to use it once the work is done. There weren't a huge number of the 700's made so I would like to be responsible for keeping at least one of them in good working order.
I also recently got an Agfa Isolette II which appears to be in decent working order and it came with a replacement bellows. A test roll will confirm that. At some point though, I may well see what it will cost for a proper CLA even if it is working okay.
Like to go for the dirt cheap stuff, atleast for SLRs.
Had a bunch of cameras from the less attractive brands like Chinon etc and had very little issues with these.
But stick with those with vertical metal shutter, very few of those that had any issues in my experience.
While its been common for the horizontal cloth/rubber shutters to have problems.
I’ve used Newton Ellis, and they not only do a great job, they’re really friendly guys to deal with. As for Japanese eBay sellers, I’ve found them every bit as good as you say. I’ve bought cameras and lenses from them over a number of years, and have never had a problem. I bought two Nikon lenses, which arrived yesterday. One of them is nearly 50 years old, and is as new. The other dates from 1966, and the glass is in superb condition. Just be aware that shipping and customs duty can be quite substantial. I paid a total of just over £150 for the two lenses from two different dealers. Shipping amounted to just over £49, and customs duty and carrier handling fee added a further £34-odd. Having said that, the lenses were posted in Japan on Tuesday, and arrived yesterday (Friday).
I've also noticed the high import costs Neil and sometimes they vary considerably. I usually factor this in and it still works out as cheap for something which is in considerably better condition than a 'local' item.
Steve O'Nions Yes, those reasons are exactly why I buy from Japan. The 1966 lens is a Nikkor-P 105mm 2.5, pristine glass and very little wear mechanically or otherwise. . The other, in absolutely as new condition, is a Nikkor-Q 135mm 3.5. , for a selling price of £44.11, so even with the additional costs factored in, it’s a brilliant buy.
I’ve found that too Neil and purchased near perfect lenses for many of my cameras, some are as new.
I bought and sold a lot of Cameras on eBay. The most important thing is you shouldn't buy anything that is offered as untested
What is also very important is that the shipping is not too cheap, otherwise you will receive a camera that was in good condition at the time of the sale but gets then smashed by the Post.
True true, but cheap, but twice 🙂
but the thing that most people overlook is that the untested cameras are usually the treasures on youtube. you tend to get super smoking deals on cameras and most of them work just fine, but even the ones that dont can be very very easily repaired and cleaned without sending it to a shop.
@@orion7741 the higher the risk, the higher the profit ;-)
I’m sure most lovers of the old cameras know this but it bares repeating, never store a leaf shutter lens with the mechanism cocked. Really that goes for all older cameras.
That’s true Robert, I keep all my cameras in this state, even the manual focus Nikon’s.
Fully agree with you :-) I collect camera's (I love em) But most have PTSD (age and misuse issues) Of which I'm slowly working through them to get them all working again :-)
A noble endeavour 😊
Very good well thought out advice, agree that on ebay Japanese sellers provide the best value of quality used equipment..
Thanks Randy.
Great info Steve, thanks. I've been looking to Japan for a Horseman 985 system for a while. Owned one back in the 70's and although it was a bit quirky and the lenses weren't super sharp, it's view camera functions, although somewhat limited, made for a great learning experience. A wonderful field camera. I eventually sold it to a photographer who had badgered me about selling it for a couple of years. I finally quoted him what I thought was a ridiculously high price and I've never seen anyone write a check so fast in my life. Ah, regrets.
That's a shame and I hope you can find another one - they sound quite rare and desirable!
Very useful information. I have a couple of FE's, Nikkormats, an F2's that are back ups. I do try to exercise the shutters every few months. I also have a 1914 Kodak folder that still works like a charm.
The older cameras do hold up very well indeed, the mechanical shutters have a very long life.
Thank you this is all good advice. Like you I use Newton Ellis and am impressed by their work. The last camera they serviced for me is my Agfa Super Isolette it has never worked so well. I am impressed by the quality of German cameras from teh 50's and 60's. I have several and only accident dammage causes the need for new parts, my Rolleiflex took a knock and bent the snail cams. Like you I regularly exercise the mechanisms in cameras I am not using and I follow advice I was given decades ago which is never leave a camera with its shutter cocked to preserve the springs.
I do the same Richard and never leave shutters cocked. The cameras from the 50’s seem particularly well made, a time before cheap manufacturing and built in obsolescence.
I use both Nikon and Canon film bodies. As a backup, I also carry along my Sony A7R2 with the appropriate adapter which allows me to use either manual lens system. Not to mention, the Sony is also nice and light...another benefit (as well as the in-body stabilization).
I used to have an A7 for the same reason, worked very well with the Canon FD lenses.
Good tips! I have had mostly good luck with Japan sellers on eBay. One thing I have noticed is their is a major drop off from a "mint" listing to E+++ (whatever). You need to really examine the photos and their wording or lack of what they mention., as you pointed out. I just had my F4 quit on me, so I bought another today. Hoping to get the other one fixed, because it's hard to look at it, as being a brick on the shelf.
Good point, I’ve also found that Mint or Mint- is a big step up in terms of condition
Yes there is a lot more choice on eBay from sellers from Japan. I would like to buy but haven't a clue about import duty to the UK I wouldn't know where to start.
Wanting a really mint Bronica S2A with tilt shift bellows + 40mm or 50mm lens
Import duties seem to vary wildly, sometimes quite reasonable whilst other items might be £50 on a £100 lens 🙁
Great video and advice, I use PPP repairs and it's worth every penny to have any new purchase serviced, they are busy and you book in advance so at the moment I've always got a slot booked and send something off as soon as I get one back. Eventually everything will be 100 percent, that will be a nice feeling!
It’s a great feeling when you know all your cameras are on top condition, I’m slowly working through mine and plan on keeping them for a long time.
The slow timers on lenses are usually due to old grease that has thickened with age. Flush with lighter fluid and work the mechanism a bit and they often work just fine.
Word? I just got myself an old Fujica 6 that works quite well overall, however the 500 speed seems to be actually shooting at 300/s
Most ‘fast’ speeds are a bit off on old cameras 😕
Also worth mentioning about buying stuff on eBay, at least over a certain value from Japan, is that it's subject to 20% VAT and some Import Duties on arrival in the UK. You might think you'll get away without having to pay it, but with a 'Mint' Nikon F3 camera I recently bought from Japan, I had to fork out another £120 representing the vat and import duties on the camera as well as a 'handling fee' payable to Parcelforce Worldwide before they would deliver it.
Ouch, a nasty shock Nigel. I've got away with it a handful of times but usually I reckon on £50 for a £250 camera or lens. Still worth it.
Every word is like my experience. My folders (Konica's 645) are now cute shelve antiques. And I don't think I am going to buy any folders for proper shooting. What I found out, that Mamiya RB 67 system and Fuji GW690 are the most reliable and satisfying for my purposes in medium format. But, as you, probably, noticed, my first love is the large format :) Great advise to people who wants to start experimenting with medium format!
Thanks Gene, I suppose the folders have long ago passed their anticipated lifespan so we are lucky they work at all.
I bought a Leica M5 once (used, from a dealer, described as Excellent Condition). It wasn't right even new, so I sent it back, they fixed it (I think they replaced the rangefinder patch), I got it back, I shot a couple of films and the shutter cloth mechanism broke. I sent it back again and to be fair to the dealer they did manage to get it repaired by having a part made. When I got it back the dealer said he wouldn't be stocking M5's any more because they are virtually impossible to get repaired. Lesson learnt, I sold it before it broke again!
That was a shame Glenn. Some
models are notorious for their unreliability and a risky buy. I have rejected the idea of buying certain cameras for this reason alone Eg. Olympus SP.
@@SteveONions I have an Oly SP. It is a lovely camera but if it breaks, well, I guess it didn't cost me a fortune. The meter on it doesn't work as it is, but that's not an issue.
I guess it's buyer beware in this game. It's still great fun using these old cameras though as you say.
@@SteveONions I bought an Olympus SP from a local dealer who assured me it had been cleaned and adjusted. That may well have been the truth as it worked fine, although I treat it with kid gloves, knowing the fragility of its workings. However, after a year or so the wind-on mechanism developed an intermittent slip fault.
As I am handy with the tweezers and knowledgable with mechanisms, I was able to fix the problem by resetting the cogs and clutches in the base whilst cleaning the old gungy grease (CLA before purchase? I think not!) and applying tiny amounts of the proper lubricant. Not for the faint of heart. If in doubt, let an expert do it. NEVER be tempted to squirt WD40 into camera workings - you will make things ten times worse.
I am well aware that if my at the moment much-loved SP develops an electronic fault then it is doomed.
www.flickr.com/photos/hairyhippy/7250128208
NB: If you’re American, don’t put a torch in the vintage camera bellows. Use a flashlight. =p That one always throws me off.
I’ve also had amazing luck with Japanese sellers. Most of what I’ve gotten has looked brand new. (Just make sure you check the descriptions - lots have fungus, but they disclose it generally.)
😊, wise words.
Excellent words of wisdom! FWIW, I am on my way to buy a Nikon FE this afternoon. How appropriate!
Have fun with the FE, I won’t be parting with mine like I have in the past 🙂
I thing the best 35mm cameras are the 90th cameras. They are cheap and absolutely the best about shutter, film loading, light meter etc. I bought a Nikon 90X for about 40 euros and it is a super camera. It costed over 1000 dollars in the 90th! Mechanical cameras are pure fascination but they have often problems and it is very important don't buy it online.
I'm not a big fan of the F90 Flavio, it's too shiny and a bit of an odd shape, much prefer the later F80 and F100.
I recently purchased a Zeiss 250mm CF from Japan, advertised as mint, of course. I had it around for about two weeks before taking it into the field. The first time that I tried to use it, it may have turned 10 degrees onto the camera body , then stopped. When I got home, I noticed the slot on the back wasn't perfectly aligned with the dot. I turned it a bit in the direction of the arrow, and the lens did attach. So, next trip, I mounted the lens, looked through the viewfinder, and it was dark. Lens cap WAS removed; it turned out that the leaf shutter was stuck. So, I contacted the seller and began discussing what action to take. He blamed me for not knowing how to use the lens. He said, "We recommend that you learn how to use products you buy." After I appealed to eBay, he agreed to a return. (He wasn't going to accept the lens back unless it was working, but decided to relent on that policy.) There was another copy of the 250 in his store. I offered an exchange; it was the same price, and had precisely the same photos as mine, down to the smudges on the barrel! (eBay said that's OK.) He said he just wanted the defective one returned immediately. So, I canceled the return and have sent the lens to a good repair shop in New England. This way I'll know I have a good CLA'd working copy, or will have a warranty in place if it isn't. This was, however, quite an untypical result with my purchases from Japan. The gear is usually in great condition.
I had a similar experience with a 20mm f/4 Nikkor and refused to send it back as he wanted me to cover all the postage costs. Got it serviced locally and it’s as good as new. Have him a bad review and chalked it up to simple bad luck.
Interesting video. I've used the "small battery company" for batteries for my Rollei 35 and Pentax super me. Stay safe.
Thanks for the recommendation Brian.
I bought a Voigtlander Perkeo 1 folder super cheap just to display next to my Minolta XG-1, but after I got it, and gave it a thorough looking over, other than the slower shutter speed at greater than 1/30-sec. it seems to be in working order. I would like to drop a roll of film in it to just check it, but I doubt I would ever use it much. I'm holding out for a TLR or even a Bronica 6x6 or somesuch. For myself, it seems to make less sense to shoot 35mm than medium format. Scanning 35mm again kind of gives me hives just thinking about ;-)
The folders can deliver very high quality Jon, even the basic ones but you need the right subjects and plenty of patience. The system SLR's like the Bronica are very flexible but also very heavy.
Bought my Yashica 12 for $75. I had it CLA'd after I dropped it in a stream. That cost me $195, but now I have a 60 year old camera that works like new. Actually taking it out today to make a video.
I think the repairs are worth it for the right camera John, if you keep it many years then the overall cost is still low compared to any digital camera.
Some great advice - thank you.
I started by setting myself the goal of replacing the cameras I'd used or owned since I first began taking photographs back in the 50s. Brownie 127, Zenit E, Nikkormat FT3. I still have the Canon A1 I traded in my FT3 for (the things you regret later!). Along the way, the Nikkormat mutated into a Nikon FM, when the scarcity and price of the FT3 made it difficult to find a good copy ... and then there are the cameras I wished I'd owned, or which I'm drawn to for other reasons. Long story short, I have acquired another handful of cameras. My one stipulation being that I must be able to use the camera.
I've only ever bought from eBay and only from UK sellers with good reputations. I feel I have better rights should I need to return anything. The thought of returning something to Japan is not something I'd want to do! As it happens, I've gotten away with it so far: the only issue being a couple of cameras needing new light seals, which I'm happy to do.
Good UK sellers are pretty safe and I’m happy to buy from the likes of Real Camera who properly describe the equipment. I’d quite like an FT3 with its ability to use Ai lenses 🙂
Words of wisdom for us; thanks!
good breakdown of the pitfalls of old film cameras! I'd to add watch out for the film the camera uses and make sure they still make it nowadays. Also, cameras from more humid areas are more potentially prone to catching a fungus, nevertheless my experience with camera gear from Japan has been very good as well.
Fungus is definitely a camera killer Rex.
Hello Steve, I very much enjoy and am inspired by your many videos. I have a Nikon 810 and several old AI and AIs prime lenses which I love using on it. From you videos, I have now ordered a FE2; looked for FE but saw FE2 at a reasonable price from a reliable dealer for my first purchase of film camera to see how I get on. I dont have darkroom, so will have to send off for developing.
Hope you enjoy shooting with the FE2 Anthony, they are fine cameras and extremely robust.
As you said, always carry two cameras with you. Especially if it's work related. Also new cameras fail, and next morning they may be as new again, but they often fail when you really need them. Murphy's law.
I’ve also had new cameras fail and wouldn’t even shoot digital with just one body.
Agree with your comment on Japanese Ebay sellers, generally reliable. Prices on MF cameras are going up though.
I must say that everything I have bought from Japan (so far, more purchases being considered) have been in better condition than described, most recently my Pentax Spotmeter which is pretty well mint. However the delivery time was very slow, over a month with delays both at the Japan and UK end due to the Pandemic.
I’ve also had waits of up to a month but it’s still worthwhile if I plan on keeping a camera for a long time. I used to be happy to sell cameras I wasn’t using but I’m now more inclined to hang onto the good ones even if they go unused for a couple of years, finding good examples is getting harder.
With very old camera, make sure about the film format they use. some camera look like 120 format camera, but they are not. I once bought a Yashica TLR 160 format camera thinking it was a 120 format camera. It is now sitting on my furniture as vintage decoration. Lesson learned
Very true, 620 is close but needs film respooling - a bit of a faff.
@@SteveONions No problem at all to do! 127 and 620 film looks to be making a comeback. Shanghai Film has already done test runs of both which sold out quite quickly, I was lucky enough to buy the last 620 in the UK, and three rolls of 127. I also reroll or recut obscure film formats, including 828, making and marking the backing papers is the biggest chore.
Some really great advice!
Thanks Gary.
Great advice. It's tough when getting cameras and equipment sight- unseen, or at least untested.I have had the worse luck in terms of operating cameras, with the 35mm models from the 1980s -- where the electronics are essential for all/most of the camera operations. Best luck with the 35mm and medium format cameras of the 1940s-early 1970s -- where the only electronics are the light meter, and if that does not work, I have a handheld which works fine. As you noted, sometimes the mechanical functions are sluggish, but can be improved through use and extremely careful cleaning and relubrication. And folders -- yeah, I love the look -- but I have a bunch where mechanically they are OK, but fixing pinholes in the bellows is frustrating. Luckily a lot of the old box cameras and pseudo-TLR cameras tend to hold up and work well, but of course the optical quality of those tend to be mediocre. But if that is the look that you are going for -- those cameras tend to be inexpensive. I do love the look of box camera photos on Ektar 100 -- they look vintage and modern in terms of the color/grain, all at the same time. Thanks Steve!
Thanks Aengus. The design of a camera definitely has a big impact on durability and it’s no wonder the delicate folders fare badly. The more rigid TLR is quite the opposite in my experience and once the shutters are serviced that run well for years.
@@SteveONions -- Unfortunately the best and functioning TLRs can be pretty expensive!!! I try to budget no more than $50 (including shipping) for a vintage camera -- which is probably why 33% are DOA and I cannot resurrect them! If you happen to have a really good TLR, that works, that you don't need anymore -- just let me know!!! But I'd love to see you go out and shoot a 120 roll in an old box camera and see how your landscape shots come out -- I bet that they would be great, and have a unique character that the camera imparts.
Now I’ve got a good TLR I’m hanging on to it, I’ve had quite a few in the past that needed servicing but I didn’t want to spend on them.
I think a box camera could make very good landscapes indeed 👍
@@SteveONions -- Well, I have way too many (box cameras) -- I'd be happy to send you one of my *620* ones!!! I have gotten 120-rerolled-to-620 from the Film Photography Project before, and even tried it myself (it's not that difficult), but I have noticed a little more scratches/lint on the rerolled film than on "virgin" 120 rolls. But it's not the end of the world! If you are interested one (or more!) of my excess box cameras (I have a huge 116 as well!) -- let me know and we'll work it out!
I’ll take you up on that kind offer one day Aengus but I’m too busy to even use some of my own cameras at the moment - as the speed of my replies probably gives away! Thanks as always and keep in touch 👍😊
interesting video, I am surprised that major brands like Nikon or Canon don’t still make at least one 35mm film camera model each....
They may well start doing so again Paolo if demand keeps rising, perhaps one with an LCD preview screen - I’d like that.
anyone in the usa, keh.com is my favorite place to buy used film gear. the shipping outside the usa may make them to expensive, but i get tons of stuff from them, 180 day warranty on used stuff and they are very customer friendly with any problems ive ever had.
I’d love to use them Chris but it is very expensive when shipping and customs charges to the UK are added in.
So, that's why I have 2 or three of each of the Canon "A" series. Either that, or it's the excuse I tell my wife why I have so many. Having a hard time coming up with the excuse of the need for another Bronica SQ body, though.
Oh the tangled web we weave...
😀
Great Tips, Steve. Fine Video, as always.
Very useful advice Steve. Hope it helps a lot of people..
NIce upload Steve, some excellent advice there, pretty much accords with everything I know/have experienced with my old film bodies etc. As you say, exercising those lenses and bodies is absolutely key to keeping them in good shape.
I need to do mine more often Marc, if they are on the shelf they get used but some equipment sits in the cupboard all year and starts to seize up.
That Nikkormat you showed at 5:18 is not an FS (without metering) Rather it is an FT with mercury battery. So - it is more or less useless as there are no battery replacements worth buyin. West have an air/zink repleacement but it last only a few weeks!!
It’s actually an FT-2 I believe 👍
@@SteveONions And you can use an external meter, which is probably the best option anyway.
I tend to do this, external metering isn’t so hard for most of my photography needs.
Thanks Steve, useful and important discussion 👍
My tip always use the recommended battery (were possible)
I used NiMH in my Canon 1n and it blew the electronics in grip.
Good point Stuart, some cameras are very sensitive.
Its actually the batteries they discharge in an initial spike which can cause problems.
Zine carbon is a much more gentle supply i think, i have tried lithium in some devices.
Thanks for your advice, keeping shooting
The nice thing about folders is they’re so simple they’re pretty easy to repair. I bought a couple of zeiss ones for 10-20 quid that were listed as shot and serviced the shutters. It’s always either a fungus filled lens, ruined bellows (leather actually is usually the most resilient) and/or dried lubricants in the shutter. Sometimes you just can’t save them but usually with a few hours and patience you can have them almost as good as new.
With your comment on Japanese sellers, according to Bellamy hunt of japan camera hunter there are apparently a lot of Chinese sellers now selling from japan and often they are selling less reliable or downright broken gear but it’s very hard to tell which those are on eBay.
That's interesting what you say about eBay sellers, I was shocked when the equipment arrived last year and was nothing like the advertisement. One refused any refund and wanted me to pay the shipping and import duties so I just left negative feedback and had it repaired locally.
Thats interesting. i alway thought whats going on when there is one article (e.g. 6x17 panorama adapter for 4x5) was offered by different sellers. But they use all the same picture and the description is almost identically. A little bit suspect…
I buy Agfa Isolettes and Record III’s. and then install new bellows. For 35mm I buy Kodak Retinas.
Pocket folding cameras in 35mm and medium format are great.
Great advice as always!
Another fantastic video Steve! Just love the content you put out. Happy shooting.
Thanks Carlin, all the best!
I bought a very cheap 6x6 folding camera (agfa isolette)... well... Let's just say I won't ever buy a cheap one. It was a waste of money. I agree with japanese stores, I never had a problem with them (cheaper than in France, even with postage, and quicker to arrive...).
I’ve only had one good folder that wasn’t from a reputable seller who checks everything works first. There are too many things to go wrong.
Excellent advise
Thanks Tony.
Great video!! Very informative and I learned a lot about film cameras.
Thank you 😊
Here in USA camera repair is pretty nonexistent. Some mail in centers, they are pricey. My friend's father had a repair shop in Long Island, New York. He closed his shop in the 1990s. He said the new electronic cameras were built to be unrepairable. He didn't even survive into the digital age. I have a Yashicamat TLR and an Isolette II that I am ready to film test. I did buy on eBay but I got two bad cameras before I got one that seems to be good.
EBay can be a real lottery but I’ve been pleased with many of them. The more reliable models are obviously less risky whereas finding an older folder in full working order is highly unlikely unless it is from a dealer.
Sadly, living on the post-soviet area, make things a lot more harder. Usual affordable western cameras and lenses very often if not always is overpriced (sometimes ridiculously), there's little to no repair shops, and the majority of options is old soviet lens and cameras, which might be overpriced without any reason at all (yeah, I'm looking at you, Helios 40-2), and despite the really cheap prices (from less than $10) it's usually a gamble, you may have a brick on your hands even if it worked couple days ago just fine. And even you have funds and was able to find decent Leica/Hasselblad deal, you're on your own from this point, because again, no repair shops aside from Moscow, maybe, but even then "you need to know a guy who knows a guy who really knows this camera system" in order to have just competent service. Because all of this I'm not even considering buying a camera in Russia, and I wanna 4x5, which is very few options in my city, the monopoly of moderate variety of assortment belongs to Moscow.
Ordering from Ebay (or from elsewhere) is not an option as well, you're forced to pay pretty high duty fee at Russian customs from purchases more than 200 euros. Which isn't a problem itself, the problem is that they requires your physical appearance at the customs, which usually hundreds of kilometres away.
Wow, I had no idea of those problems, that really does limit your access to decent camera equipment. I guess we are a lot luckier even with the import costs as we can have equipment shipped straight to our address after paying the fees online. I suppose the 4x5 option would be best as repairs are a lot easier to make yourself once you have decent lenses.
I can't disagree more with your recommendation to go only with verified dealers. I've had great luck with independent sellers on ebay, so long as you're willing to do the due dilligence and know what to look for. You are absolutely correct that you have to carefully read the description and look through the images provided to assess what the seller is and isn't willing to say. If they don't say it and it isn't visible in the photos, you can get a refund on ebay. Thus, most ebay sellers, even if they're sleazeballs who want to bilk you, will either provide a photo that makes clear the issues you may face, or will mention the issue. In the low to middle end, there are great deals on "condition unknown" or "untested" cameras, if you're willing to work around the weirdness. I bought my super ikonta for $100. It has some minor haze and the speeds are only a suggestion, but I'd rather have that and $200 than a CLA'd, minty Super Ikonta. I bought my Pentax 67 body for $100 recently. It's a bit of a basket case (repaired shutter curtains from a jam, uneven shutter at slower speeds, the shutter speed detents are stripped so it can get caught 'between' speeds and lock the shutter open) but I'd much rather have that and $600 of lenses than a "good" one that could just as easily break on me. You're absolutely correct that old camera gear can break on you at any time, but that's precisely why I'd recommend against paying a premium for really nice examples that have been well maintained. You're much better off, as you _also_ recommended, buying 2 or 3 of the same body and just expecting them to break periodically, and hoping to scavenge parts off them to keep a small 'fleet' going.
I'm not prepared to risk losing images due to clapped out cameras, much better to pay more and have it fully functional. There's also the resale value, good ones are going to increase in price considerably more than junk.
Great Information. Thanks Steve. 👍
Thanks Ulrich.
Step 1: Put a alco lock on ebay...:), other than that :D. Thank you for your videos.
What about 3D printing of parts, not made anymore?
Thanks Roger, I imagine a lot of old cameras will be fixable with reprinted parts.
The price of film cameras is going through the roof. Strange thing is, the cheaper film cameras are usually the late 90s SLRs which are more plasticky but probably are the most reliable film cameras.
I really like a lot of the late models, the Nikon F80 is probably my most used SLR.
Steve O'Nions I have a Nikon F80 too! That is a lovely camera. I prefer it to the bigger and bulkier F100. It’s far technically superior to a vintage SLR and so cheap to buy. Altho I do see the appeal of vintage cameras. I also have a Canon AE1 Program which I love.
"Reputable repairman"? From a several of them in the past, there's only one, yes ONE that actually still works in my city, who is willing to repair old cameras. And even he can only do so much if he doesn't have spare parts. Situation is not much better in big repair shops, there's Canons as well as Nikons shop. Recently I needed to repair one modern Canon autofocus lens (an L lens mind you), but the support (i.e. production of spare parts) stopped 7 years ago. So I needed to wait for 2 months until the shop find that missing part on another side of Europe...
It’s definitely becoming harder Tomislav, I’m lucky to have a good company nearby.
Hi Steve! I've been thinking of getting I to the Bronica SQ system but people have told me to stay away due to it being electronic and the fact that repairs are hard to find for that system. Any thoughts on that as a heavy user of the system? Thanks.
AnchorTH I wouldn’t let the electronics stop you from your purchase. I have been using bronica’s for 40 years and never had an issue with the SQ models. The good thing though, if one does fail, buying a separate body is so inexpensive compared to some of the other brands. For me the build quality and the image quality are what sells me on this camera. There is a reason they are called the “Japanese Hasselblad” or the “ Nikon of medium format”.
Bronica are nice cameras, I'd love an SQ setup but already have an ETRSi kit. Build quality is excellent, image quality is superb and I've not had any reliability issues in the 3 or so years that I've owned mine. Any old camera is a risk, just do your homework and buy the best you can afford. If it doesn't look too abused it should be fine.
Why are some reflex that they cost like news ,For exemple ,Olympus om 1 is one of the most expensive of the OM series,the Fm2 is more expensive than the FM3.All the numbers are from Ebay
It is strange how certain cameras have become so expensive.
Steve O'Nions 30 years ago i paíd 100 pound by my OM1 in a second hand shop in London, today you havent
@@josebainakielorriagaarriet2066 He might have.