Brother… I don’t know if it’s just me perceiving this, but since you moved from your old studio the level of joy, excitement, and dare I say contentment you radiate has greatly increased. Thank you for sharing the joy of our hobby and helping lower the entry level for others to join us.
Just a small tip. You can key the two mold half's by pressing the end of a paint brush into the first mold in a couple of places. Makes it easier to align them perfectly.
Note: Apparently, Oyomaru leaves a residue in the container its heated in. So don't use the same mug or whatever you drink from. Another tip: If you're casting something with a long, thin bit, like a spear, sandwich a thin bit of metal rod or whatever between the halves when you cast with the epoxy. It'll create a solid core that adds structure to the bit, so it doesn't snap as easily.
Hobby mold maker here, "Hi!", I have some techniques and tips I could share. However, not sure how happy the YT algorithm would be if I shared my knowledge when it comes to full sprue recasts. Let me know and I will consider it.
Ok, I'm not setup for doing videos, but, the options are 1) A detailed video that may take a while to get uploaded, or 2) TL;DR wall-o-text that details everything you need and the process of what to do.
The pure joy in your eyes while you are explaining the process is magical. You’re the kind of teacher that teaches through experience and love for the art. Keep up the energy!
1. Thank you for all the content you've been pumping out. You're killing it. I've actually got to catch up. 2. The last time I bought petroleum jelly, it was for this very thing. It was at the dollar store. The lady behind the counter gave me a weird look, it was the only thing I was buying. I knew what she was thinking, so i paid her and just gave her a smile and a wink. 😂
That smile you give when you know you're going to be cranking that hog and by cranking that hog we both know I'm talking about bootlegging Privateer Press hordes Pigman line of models
This is the best beginner hobby video I've seen in ages. Most people making videos about a niche subject (like casting) go away too deep right away. Even college 101 classes start at the absolute basics of the basics
More great stuff Trent! Tip for greenstuff: as the yellow portion ages, it reacts with the plastic wrapper to form a hard skin which gives you your chunks (in addition to reacting where it touches the blue part). The best way to minimise this is to find a fresh supplier and keep it in the freezer, and/or buy it in logs not strips
One tip I would give for realigning them is using the end of your paintbrush to make divots in one side of the mould whilst it's still hot, that way when you put the other part ontop it will have bumps where the divots are and thus an easy way to match up the two halves.
Also I have been living off of your videos lately; they’re such an incredible source of artistic inspiration, and it’s always so wonderful to watch you joyfully work. I haven’t had much free time to make art lately but just watching you have fun making things has helped to tide me over until I’m back to being able to do my own crafting ❤ thank you for everything you do!
i have no idea what you're talking about, though that was my favourite movie as a kid, which is weird as an australian with no understanding of american history
@@Miscast well the european side of australia's settler population did start off as a prison colony for theives so maybe you are living up to some ancestor
Nivea Creme is another option instead of petroleum jelly that doesn't require washing before painting, it's also easier to wash out of a cheap paintbrush. I think MrPink/ModernSynthesist first made videos on it. I use it for oyumaru/bluestuff molds and on sculpting tools for greenstuff/miliput. I'm not sure if I would trust it as a mold release from the face of a mini if the greenstuff/miliput was left to cure, but it would definitely do the trick in place of baby powder for the short application time like you did for the quick press mold toward the end of the video.
The world is full of PIRATES! It's been so great to see you so active lately, very much looking forward to catching once things settle down and we can have some fun together!
I was having a glum day, but you going "ahhh it doesn't matter" made me smile. I knew about this stuff, but there were some good tips in here about getting a better mould. I would suggest dropping your metal models in the hot water too and wearing oven mitts when you first get it out of the hot water. As the main issues I had with it were burning my fingers and getting it to stay hot enough whilst I pressed the moulds. Metal saps heat, so warming it up should give you more time to squeeze it into all those details. Probably won't help with the burning fingers part though!😅
I'm really enjoying this channel enormously. I recently bought some plasticine to try my hand as some sculpting, and I am thinking of picking up stuff for making minis depending on how that goes.
The best part of this video is Trent suggesting I am his friend. Also, a good tip is to poke some holes in the first half of the mold with your finger, and press the other half into it, that helps making sure it is always aligned properly.
I use milliput for the first attempt with the mold, as it is super cheap, so you haven't wasted much if it isn't quite right. I also use a box and press made out of lego rather than hand squishing. This gives an even press and makes the two halves perfectly aligned. You can reduce flashing by pressing the mold down then lifting it up and removing the excess that squished out. I love this method for "cloning" out-of-print miniatures! Back in the 90s I only purchased three Rogue Trader chaos marines... but now I have a squad of 10!
I think it's best used for small bits like arms, weapons, shields etc. If you're doing full miniatures I'd make a silicone mould and cast in resin. It takes a bit longer to set up but once you have the mould they just drop out, near perfect with no clean up. I get the odd bubble but that's because I don't use vacuum or pressure. I've been making some old plague marines, I add some bits in green stuff after to make them all unique
Been messing with oyumaru recently to make some extra heads for my old 90's metal ogryns. One thing I've found helps is to mush holes around the edge of the first half of the mold with the butt of my paintbrush in an asymmetrical pattern so that the top half of the mold fills them and they work for lining up points
Others have already mentioned alignment and making a box, so I'll add you want to remove the cast before the greenstuff fully cures so you can shave away the flash. You should practically be able to peel it off with your finger, so a hobby knife with cut right through it no problem. Then put it back into the mold to fully harden. I've found this gets the best results with the least amount of work. I've found thermoplastic to be okay for doing one-sided pieces (like shields) and really small, flat items (like swords), but generally terrible at things like full models or guns for space marines. It requires too much cleanup and prep to get it looking good, compared to just building the parts from scratch using plasticard and freehand sculpting.
Faceless corporation :You wouldn't steal a minature!!! Trent: Nah, go ahead, knock yourselves out and share them with your friends. Your doing good work man.
if you are stuggling with green stuff i blast it a little with a jet lighter, probably not supposed to but it works to soften it up for me for kneading
In the case realigning the two pieces, what i tend tl do is just with the back of a brush, make a few dent/wholes in it around the figure, maybe two on one side and 1 on the other, makes realigning a tad easier 😊
You can also put the green stuff in hot water to make it softer and it "flows" into the details better (it probably decreases the setting time too though).
I found that black miliputt works a lot better than green stuff. I also did a tabard with uv resin putty but you gotta make your mold pretty thin. Also build an enclosure with some legos
a good trick when making molds from this stuff is to poke in registration holes onto the first side of the mold with a brush end or sculpting tool so as to make the mold go together one way to help reduce mold slip
Some tips. Use Lego to buildformwork around the mould Use plasticine to one half of the model to create a flat surface, dig some holes in the plasticine to make lugs. The remove the plasticine to create the second half.
Oymaru is also called "blue stuff". I have used it to copy: necks and legs of Rockgut Troggoths to make 6 with the extra pieces (they came out wonky and needed additional sculpting and gap filling), missing Tau bodies and legs (fine but a lot of cutting), shields (good), goblins (bad), kinder toys (good for broken statues) and helmets (bad but fine basing)
As a sculptor it can also be useful when you want to get several identical parts on one or more sculpts. So basically stealing from yourself for greater consistency! ;)
Oyumaru/BlueStuff is truly something magic. Similar thermoplastic varieties seem to be either too rigid or 'sticky' for molds. Poking some mold key bumps into the first half will help a lot with mating the two later. I've been thinking of using it to replicate some old Marader-era dome shields with no modern equivalent to kit out a whole Oldhammer regiment. I'm not sure what material mix to use to get the proper ratio between floppy and brittle on thin structures that stick out and get banged around. Would you suggest a 50/50 mix of Milliput/etc and Greenstuff/etc for that?
great idea with the mold key bumps!! I would probably just use greenstuff and use more of one color to make it harder (I can remember which color makes it harder, I think blue) that way you get the flex but also its way more ridged.
Lil' tip for you! if you cut out a tiny section in the middle of the greenstuff where the two colors mix, then you can get rid of all the hard bits in the greenstuff that don't mix well!
Yeah! I rip it off cause it takes more of the hard bit with it, and this batch the yellow side has chucky veins running through it, not just the middle, very weird!
I should probably have another go at doing this - I bought some blue stuff and tried recently but gave up after a couple of attempts. I seemed to either add too much or too little green stuff to make the replacement cannon.
I guess you could also temporarily attach pencils or rods to the miniature with hot glue to create gates & risers before applying the oyumaru so you can cast with resin, but that would be a lot of fiddling around
ive done resin casting in it before but you need to be really careful with any resin that generates even a small amount of heat, it'll distort the mold or worse bind to it but does work if the setting time is slow enough and there isnt too much resin
@@Miscast I've seen people have good results from using UV-curing resin in these molds, since you can blast the mold with a strong UV light and it will go through to the resin inside, especially with the 'clear' oyumaru. Maybe even pop the mold into a resin printer curing station to get at all the angles with a mold made flattened to stand on edge. How long? Who knows, but finding sounds like fun.
@makoaniki has great videos using oyumaru as a mold and showcases useful techniques (such as recasting, resin coating to create an "aura" or glow, etc.). i think you'd have fun with the ideas.
I don't do crimes, but I wonder if adding a wire armature into one half of a fig in a oyumaru mould would be a good idea for strengthening it. I use the magical blue stuff mostly to make replacement parts, shields etc from my original sculpts.
I've seen most people recommend you use this to recast bits rather than entire models. Need some extra arms, legs, weapons, heads? This stuff is great for that, cause the individual piece tends to be 'flatter' than the assembled model.
when making terrain details that would benefit from being broken for terrain suck as reliefs use plaster or miliput, miliput white or yellow works best for that and it can be snapped to match the way you have say a wall behind where it's going. or to represent damage on the base of a miniature
If you have kids or other fun hobbies, you can put together a form for your mold with lego. Bottom plate, a small lego "room", press blue stuff in, press the legally copyable mini into the blue stuff. Key the other parts of your blue stuff with a pencil, paint brush, whatever you got. Wait a couple of minutes, make more blue stuff, push it on top, fix it with another lego plate. It can be a bit hard to get out the solid block of blue stuff, but that's why we're using lego. It also doubles as something to hold your mold (and give a bit of pressure) while whatever you want to cure in there cures. As always, don't use this for doing crime!
Huzzah! Thank you thank you for once again showing the way. There is a miniature that I want more of that the company doesn't sell Singletary. Only in a big box monster unit.
I've been trying this, but it's definitely hard to do in models that have more spread out poses. Like a walking space marine or something. I would usually just do a torso and legs but it still is a bit dodgy.
yeah, I usually break it up into parts if possible, some models are super tricky for this sorta stuff, but chances are they'll also be tricky for all casting methods too
I was anxious for my heist later this week, no longer do I have to wonder if I can copy that ancient medallion that’s secretly the key to the real treasure! The silly heiress won’t even know her seal of the ancients is missing! 😂
I made the same procress with Putty from Greenstuff world and after the mould is done, resin to get a recast in resin. (BTW I'm spanish so sorry for my english)
Trent, a young illegal minature dealer before bed: “see you in the morning ya troublemakers!” Trent, a cranky old troll in the morning: “Good morning.”
the only tip i’ve discovered myself is that you can and SHOULD stick your green stuff in the freezer as soon as you buy it, the center piece will not cure as quickly, and the rest of the stuff will not be as sticky and will last longer (i thank the texas weather for this discovery)
Hi there. Could it work with sprue goo instead of green stuff ? Would the results be the same, worse, better ? Or, would the sprue goo (full of acetone) melt the Oyumaru ?
Hey Trent, could you give me a little help? When I tried to make a 2 part mold with oyumaru, the hotter half merged with the cooler half. It was a nightmare to recover the mini from inside and the mold didn't work. Could you give me some tips of how to avoid this?
This shouldnt happen, its very hard to make 2 parts stick together that arent completely molten, maybe you have a different brand to me or variation? its probably far too hot. Make sure the other half is completely cool, you can also make the other oyumaru surface your pressing into slighty damp and that moisture barrier will stop it sticking
With silicone molding painted models is no problem but with oyumaru/thermoplastic or polyurethane rubber, I've found it can take off the paint if the model isn't primed but its usually fine. The mold will be fine, but that paint may transfer to the first cast you make.
i wish i'd had the chance to actually run you through a demo on using this stuff and miliput at pax, ah well maybe i can do that demo as a video for everyone's benefit
@@Miscast gotta sculpt up some original parts first, ah well i have terrain projects in the works that would benefit from original decorative details being made and cast
See ya in a couple of days?
yes please
We'll be waiting :D
I didn’t know you were coming to Ohio?
Cannot wait, I love also your chat at PAX with the guys from The Eldritch Lorecast !
good luck you have a lot of editing ahead of you
Brother… I don’t know if it’s just me perceiving this, but since you moved from your old studio the level of joy, excitement, and dare I say contentment you radiate has greatly increased. Thank you for sharing the joy of our hobby and helping lower the entry level for others to join us.
Just a small tip. You can key the two mold half's by pressing the end of a paint brush into the first mold in a couple of places. Makes it easier to align them perfectly.
such a great tip!
Works great.
Note: Apparently, Oyomaru leaves a residue in the container its heated in. So don't use the same mug or whatever you drink from.
Another tip: If you're casting something with a long, thin bit, like a spear, sandwich a thin bit of metal rod or whatever between the halves when you cast with the epoxy. It'll create a solid core that adds structure to the bit, so it doesn't snap as easily.
thats pretty smart!
Uhhhh, good to know that .
I've been drinking paint water for centuries, and I turned out fine!
That is an EXCELLENT tip for casting sticks, thank ye for that!!!
Hobby mold maker here, "Hi!", I have some techniques and tips I could share. However, not sure how happy the YT algorithm would be if I shared my knowledge when it comes to full sprue recasts. Let me know and I will consider it.
Pls dooo
* *starts foaming at the mouth* *
Full
Sprue
Recasts?
Ok, I'm not setup for doing videos, but, the options are 1) A detailed video that may take a while to get uploaded, or 2) TL;DR wall-o-text that details everything you need and the process of what to do.
@@madhatter1662 full disclosure Im sure we'd be psyched either way.
Whatever seems best I'd say.
@madhatter1662 both options seems pretty good ngl
"Now if you want to steal from a friend, like me."
Aaaaw, thanks Trent. (Trent's the cool art friend we all need)
You got it!
I think re casting your homemade sculpts/push molds to share is a neat idea. It's like 'zines for minis.
The pure joy in your eyes while you are explaining the process is magical. You’re the kind of teacher that teaches through experience and love for the art. Keep up the energy!
I’m loving all these casting videos. It’s one of the last bastions of this hobby that I haven’t broached. One day.
I'm so glad! I hope you do, I think you'll unlock a whole world of problem solving and creativity
Do it! It's great fun, and it's awesome for kit bashing.
1. Thank you for all the content you've been pumping out. You're killing it. I've actually got to catch up.
2. The last time I bought petroleum jelly, it was for this very thing. It was at the dollar store. The lady behind the counter gave me a weird look, it was the only thing I was buying. I knew what she was thinking, so i paid her and just gave her a smile and a wink. 😂
That smile you give when you know you're going to be cranking that hog and by cranking that hog we both know I'm talking about bootlegging Privateer Press hordes Pigman line of models
@@Jsilveira309 lol
I just wanna say you are by far my favourite channel and have inspired me to sculpt and recast my own miniaures and thank you for everything
Thankyou so much! I'm so glad. I hope we can trade models one day!
This is the best beginner hobby video I've seen in ages. Most people making videos about a niche subject (like casting) go away too deep right away. Even college 101 classes start at the absolute basics of the basics
More great stuff Trent! Tip for greenstuff: as the yellow portion ages, it reacts with the plastic wrapper to form a hard skin which gives you your chunks (in addition to reacting where it touches the blue part). The best way to minimise this is to find a fresh supplier and keep it in the freezer, and/or buy it in logs not strips
Satyr Art studios has looked into this and stocks the fresh stuff
One tip I would give for realigning them is using the end of your paintbrush to make divots in one side of the mould whilst it's still hot, that way when you put the other part ontop it will have bumps where the divots are and thus an easy way to match up the two halves.
Also I have been living off of your videos lately; they’re such an incredible source of artistic inspiration, and it’s always so wonderful to watch you joyfully work. I haven’t had much free time to make art lately but just watching you have fun making things has helped to tide me over until I’m back to being able to do my own crafting ❤ thank you for everything you do!
I feel like this is leading up to some "National Treasure" style heist of bootlegging minis inside warhammer world
i have no idea what you're talking about, though that was my favourite movie as a kid, which is weird as an australian with no understanding of american history
@@Miscast well the european side of australia's settler population did start off as a prison colony for theives so maybe you are living up to some ancestor
Nivea Creme is another option instead of petroleum jelly that doesn't require washing before painting, it's also easier to wash out of a cheap paintbrush. I think MrPink/ModernSynthesist first made videos on it. I use it for oyumaru/bluestuff molds and on sculpting tools for greenstuff/miliput. I'm not sure if I would trust it as a mold release from the face of a mini if the greenstuff/miliput was left to cure, but it would definitely do the trick in place of baby powder for the short application time like you did for the quick press mold toward the end of the video.
great info thankyou!!!
The world is full of PIRATES! It's been so great to see you so active lately, very much looking forward to catching once things settle down and we can have some fun together!
Thanks Viv! Miss ya mate, catch up soon
Arrrr!
just found this channel and been binging it all day. love the infectious excitement.
I was having a glum day, but you going "ahhh it doesn't matter" made me smile.
I knew about this stuff, but there were some good tips in here about getting a better mould.
I would suggest dropping your metal models in the hot water too and wearing oven mitts when you first get it out of the hot water. As the main issues I had with it were burning my fingers and getting it to stay hot enough whilst I pressed the moulds. Metal saps heat, so warming it up should give you more time to squeeze it into all those details. Probably won't help with the burning fingers part though!😅
I'm really enjoying this channel enormously. I recently bought some plasticine to try my hand as some sculpting, and I am thinking of picking up stuff for making minis depending on how that goes.
The best part of this video is Trent suggesting I am his friend.
Also, a good tip is to poke some holes in the first half of the mold with your finger, and press the other half into it, that helps making sure it is always aligned properly.
I use milliput for the first attempt with the mold, as it is super cheap, so you haven't wasted much if it isn't quite right. I also use a box and press made out of lego rather than hand squishing. This gives an even press and makes the two halves perfectly aligned.
You can reduce flashing by pressing the mold down then lifting it up and removing the excess that squished out.
I love this method for "cloning" out-of-print miniatures! Back in the 90s I only purchased three Rogue Trader chaos marines... but now I have a squad of 10!
I think it's best used for small bits like arms, weapons, shields etc. If you're doing full miniatures I'd make a silicone mould and cast in resin. It takes a bit longer to set up but once you have the mould they just drop out, near perfect with no clean up. I get the odd bubble but that's because I don't use vacuum or pressure.
I've been making some old plague marines, I add some bits in green stuff after to make them all unique
Been messing with oyumaru recently to make some extra heads for my old 90's metal ogryns. One thing I've found helps is to mush holes around the edge of the first half of the mold with the butt of my paintbrush in an asymmetrical pattern so that the top half of the mold fills them and they work for lining up points
incredible tip
Others have already mentioned alignment and making a box, so I'll add you want to remove the cast before the greenstuff fully cures so you can shave away the flash. You should practically be able to peel it off with your finger, so a hobby knife with cut right through it no problem. Then put it back into the mold to fully harden. I've found this gets the best results with the least amount of work.
I've found thermoplastic to be okay for doing one-sided pieces (like shields) and really small, flat items (like swords), but generally terrible at things like full models or guns for space marines. It requires too much cleanup and prep to get it looking good, compared to just building the parts from scratch using plasticard and freehand sculpting.
Faceless corporation :You wouldn't steal a minature!!!
Trent: Nah, go ahead, knock yourselves out and share them with your friends.
Your doing good work man.
if you are stuggling with green stuff i blast it a little with a jet lighter, probably not supposed to but it works to soften it up for me for kneading
In the case realigning the two pieces, what i tend tl do is just with the back of a brush, make a few dent/wholes in it around the figure, maybe two on one side and 1 on the other, makes realigning a tad easier 😊
You can also put the green stuff in hot water to make it softer and it "flows" into the details better (it probably decreases the setting time too though).
You can push a pen or brush into the first layer of the mold to make registration marks for easier alignment!
I found that black miliputt works a lot better than green stuff. I also did a tabard with uv resin putty but you gotta make your mold pretty thin.
Also build an enclosure with some legos
a good trick when making molds from this stuff is to poke in registration holes onto the first side of the mold with a brush end or sculpting tool so as to make the mold go together one way to help reduce mold slip
great tip!!
@@Miscast if i'd thought of it i'd have brought a couple of molds with me for you to look at/reference but that week was hectic on my end
Some tips.
Use Lego to buildformwork around the mould
Use plasticine to one half of the model to create a flat surface, dig some holes in the plasticine to make lugs. The remove the plasticine to create the second half.
you can even use clay for the mold and model it works really well
I've been putting off a molding and casting for a while now due to costs of silicone and resin but this seems perfect!! Thanks heaps :)
You inspire me so much man, keep doing what you’re doing.
Thankyou!! That means a lot
Thanks, I'm gonna go clone some of the old escher gang boots to put on my new escher gangers. The war on models in high heels sprinting continues!
thats sick, good luck!
Oymaru is also called "blue stuff". I have used it to copy:
necks and legs of Rockgut Troggoths to make 6 with the extra pieces (they came out wonky and needed additional sculpting and gap filling),
missing Tau bodies and legs (fine but a lot of cutting),
shields (good),
goblins (bad),
kinder toys (good for broken statues) and
helmets (bad but fine basing)
As a sculptor it can also be useful when you want to get several identical parts on one or more sculpts. So basically stealing from yourself for greater consistency! ;)
Let's take bets on how long until the Gw legal team rises from their coffins and has this video put to the sword
Oyumaru is great. I’ve managed to make a few key push moulds for bits that allow me to just churn out wolf skulls on demand.
Oyumaru/BlueStuff is truly something magic. Similar thermoplastic varieties seem to be either too rigid or 'sticky' for molds. Poking some mold key bumps into the first half will help a lot with mating the two later.
I've been thinking of using it to replicate some old Marader-era dome shields with no modern equivalent to kit out a whole Oldhammer regiment. I'm not sure what material mix to use to get the proper ratio between floppy and brittle on thin structures that stick out and get banged around. Would you suggest a 50/50 mix of Milliput/etc and Greenstuff/etc for that?
great idea with the mold key bumps!! I would probably just use greenstuff and use more of one color to make it harder (I can remember which color makes it harder, I think blue) that way you get the flex but also its way more ridged.
I really need to get my hands on some oyumaru. Once again, thanks for the great video.
I’m going to try this out with Legions Imperialis minis! A whole terminator army would be awesome
Lil' tip for you! if you cut out a tiny section in the middle of the greenstuff where the two colors mix, then you can get rid of all the hard bits in the greenstuff that don't mix well!
Yeah! I rip it off cause it takes more of the hard bit with it, and this batch the yellow side has chucky veins running through it, not just the middle, very weird!
I should probably have another go at doing this - I bought some blue stuff and tried recently but gave up after a couple of attempts. I seemed to either add too much or too little green stuff to make the replacement cannon.
This channel is such a blessing
Thankyou!!
I guess you could also temporarily attach pencils or rods to the miniature with hot glue to create gates & risers before applying the oyumaru so you can cast with resin, but that would be a lot of fiddling around
ive done resin casting in it before but you need to be really careful with any resin that generates even a small amount of heat, it'll distort the mold or worse bind to it but does work if the setting time is slow enough and there isnt too much resin
@@Miscast I've seen people have good results from using UV-curing resin in these molds, since you can blast the mold with a strong UV light and it will go through to the resin inside, especially with the 'clear' oyumaru. Maybe even pop the mold into a resin printer curing station to get at all the angles with a mold made flattened to stand on edge. How long? Who knows, but finding sounds like fun.
@@aeneasfate thats a great idea to experiment with! Thankyou
@makoaniki has great videos using oyumaru as a mold and showcases useful techniques (such as recasting, resin coating to create an "aura" or glow, etc.). i think you'd have fun with the ideas.
Hey Friend, can I borrow a cup of black coffee? Also some cold water? Oh and maybe a miniature? 🤣
Wonderful as always! What is that miniature that you stamped the face onto at 7:38? I’m always looking for more female minis 💕
...and that's why I always hobby in a ski mask!
shoutout to the troublemakers
great stuff trent ♡
shout out! thankyou!
Oh boy lets see how long this video stays up. You're a legend. Are you coming to heresy camp?
thankyou! not sure what heresy camp is!
Plumbers Putty from your local Hardware/Tradesman store would be a good alternative to Greenstuff. I think it's the same stuff.
4:37 punch a few holes in one side to make a key for later realignment.
Awesome Jobs as Always, I'd also love to sculpt and cast some of those creepy masks you would see on the walls of Buildings in Mordhëim
I don't do crimes, but I wonder if adding a wire armature into one half of a fig in a oyumaru mould would be a good idea for strengthening it.
I use the magical blue stuff mostly to make replacement parts, shields etc from my original sculpts.
I've seen most people recommend you use this to recast bits rather than entire models. Need some extra arms, legs, weapons, heads? This stuff is great for that, cause the individual piece tends to be 'flatter' than the assembled model.
Thanks Trent, will give a try sometime!
J'utilise un coffrage. C'est très pratique pour presser la pate après moulage sans trop presser.
Et aligner facilement les 2 parties.
Vive le moulage
when making terrain details that would benefit from being broken for terrain suck as reliefs use plaster or miliput, miliput white or yellow works best for that and it can be snapped to match the way you have say a wall behind where it's going. or to represent damage on the base of a miniature
great idea!
I use this method to make cool bases for my minis!
Love me some miscast to relax on a sunday with
If you have kids or other fun hobbies, you can put together a form for your mold with lego. Bottom plate, a small lego "room", press blue stuff in, press the legally copyable mini into the blue stuff. Key the other parts of your blue stuff with a pencil, paint brush, whatever you got. Wait a couple of minutes, make more blue stuff, push it on top, fix it with another lego plate. It can be a bit hard to get out the solid block of blue stuff, but that's why we're using lego. It also doubles as something to hold your mold (and give a bit of pressure) while whatever you want to cure in there cures.
As always, don't use this for doing crime!
great idea!! I'll try it
That's REALLY good! Definitely using this soon.
lets gooo! loving what your making lately @missminilife!
Huzzah! Thank you thank you for once again showing the way.
There is a miniature that I want more of that the company doesn't sell Singletary. Only in a big box monster unit.
You're welcome!
Is this stuff similar to that instant mold product?
This will work on small mini or things that come in bits.
Heisting the Lil’ Unclean One!!! 😆 I love it! Sharing is Caring!!! 🥰🥰🥰
Hell yeah! Top bootlegging tips!
I really want to try this now!
I've tried this with a thousand sons model from 1991 at varying results.
Great video as always 😊😊
would love to see what you can pull off with latex molds, assuming you arnt allergic.
Miss you matey, excellent tutorial !!!
Legend thankyou mate. Miss you too. Catch up really soon I'm sure!
Never felt more excited for a heist
Ah...memories of casting scarabs back in 3rd ed 40k. Its very useful for little things like dreadnought knuckles.
I've been trying this, but it's definitely hard to do in models that have more spread out poses. Like a walking space marine or something. I would usually just do a torso and legs but it still is a bit dodgy.
yeah, I usually break it up into parts if possible, some models are super tricky for this sorta stuff, but chances are they'll also be tricky for all casting methods too
Also getting alignment right is hard 😂
@@armin8306 in the photo from bigboygame time near the end, hes got alignment markers on the mold, I gotta do that!
I was anxious for my heist later this week, no longer do I have to wonder if I can copy that ancient medallion that’s secretly the key to the real treasure! The silly heiress won’t even know her seal of the ancients is missing! 😂
4:58 You said it, as Miscast followers, we’re “troublemakers”.
I made the same procress with Putty from Greenstuff world and after the mould is done, resin to get a recast in resin. (BTW I'm spanish so sorry for my english)
And I think using resin is more acurated because at least is liquid, so is more easy to arrive to all cavities is the mould is good.
Trent, a young illegal minature dealer before bed: “see you in the morning ya troublemakers!”
Trent, a cranky old troll in the morning: “Good morning.”
Thanks for the great tips! I'm far less intimidated to use my oyumaru after watching this!
Great to hear J! Cant wait to see what you do!
What’s a good alternative if you can’t get your hands on oyumaru?
Gotta step on the green girl lol
This video has reminded me to start recasting tyranid warrior parts.
the only tip i’ve discovered myself is that you can and SHOULD stick your green stuff in the freezer as soon as you buy it, the center piece will not cure as quickly, and the rest of the stuff will not be as sticky and will last longer
(i thank the texas weather for this discovery)
Hi there. Could it work with sprue goo instead of green stuff ? Would the results be the same, worse, better ? Or, would the sprue goo (full of acetone) melt the Oyumaru ?
I haven't tried but I think it will work fine!
«See ya in the morning ya trouble maker, mmmm» 😂
Hey Trent, could you give me a little help? When I tried to make a 2 part mold with oyumaru, the hotter half merged with the cooler half. It was a nightmare to recover the mini from inside and the mold didn't work. Could you give me some tips of how to avoid this?
This shouldnt happen, its very hard to make 2 parts stick together that arent completely molten, maybe you have a different brand to me or variation? its probably far too hot. Make sure the other half is completely cool, you can also make the other oyumaru surface your pressing into slighty damp and that moisture barrier will stop it sticking
@@Miscast yeah probably a Brand thing. But I Will try the water thing. Thank you!
10/10 bootleg gang, also great to hear ya thoughts on that PaxAus panel 🙌 killin it
thankyou!!
Hi trent, is it possible to mold & cast painted models? Im afraid it will ruin the paintjob (not that important) or the mold (more important)
With silicone molding painted models is no problem but with oyumaru/thermoplastic or polyurethane rubber, I've found it can take off the paint if the model isn't primed but its usually fine. The mold will be fine, but that paint may transfer to the first cast you make.
@@Miscast Thank you! Your channel is so important for this hobby
this was delightful
How much do we need for a warlord titan and would it still be cheaper?
thank you I will use this a lot and a a I love the video ❤😁👍
Amazing! Stoked to hear
i love this stuff been using it for years
I've been using the same PIECE for years hahaha!
@@Miscast same for me lmao dont buy the Blue stuff version lol get the stuff from japan way cheaper
green stuff world sucks anyway
for those in aus you can find packets of oyomaru at daiso for like 3 or 4 bucks a packet if not less
great to know! I had no idea
do you have to use green stuff? and would it work with clay. day one of asking for you to build a Ork stompa
i wish i'd had the chance to actually run you through a demo on using this stuff and miliput at pax, ah well maybe i can do that demo as a video for everyone's benefit
you should!
@@Miscast gotta sculpt up some original parts first, ah well i have terrain projects in the works that would benefit from original decorative details being made and cast
How does greenstuff compare to freeform sculpt? Every time I use it, I feel like I'm sculpting with bubble gum and peanut butter