Thank you for this video! I've just completed the conversion on my 250 2 trips so far and she's purring! A few tips to anyone looking to do this. Buy a waterproof pre wired relay assembly. 4 pin opposed to 5. ( if 5 pin is the only option, unplug relay, remove center yellow wire and connector rather than capping it. Seal the hole) They come with mounting screw. Which I fastened to the top pump block off plate. This minimizes wiring and keeps the bulk of it in the cowling. Wire a 30 amp inline fuse right off of the relay. Use heat shrink connectors and tinned copper wiring. As an extra failsafe in the event the relay fails. Use opposite connectors on the power in (30) terminal and the power out (87) terminal. If the relay fails you can manually connect the two wires so the pump will be on all the time. This will get you home. Also the block of plates, I Couldn't find them available online so make your own, 1in wide 1/4 thick aluminum flat bar, few holes (use old pump housing as a drill guide), just made rectangles, no need for curved shape(no sharp edges). Get a felpro gasket roll from the auto store use a hammer punch. Cost around $25 so Save ya some bones Also since I've no personal trust in the electric pump/ brand (Carter). It's performance, longevity in salty environment. I can't say much other than it is cheap enough so buy a second pump, double vacuum seal it along with the hardware and keep it on deck. It's important to pre wire the connectors the same as your in use pump. Hopefully you'll never need it, but it's a hell of an insurance policy for an extra $60 some bucks. Good luck, I'll be sure to update as time goes on.
Could this low pressure fuel pump delete possibly work on the carburettor yamaha 250hp v6? Obviously need to ascertain relay power source but would be interested to hear any opinions. Regards
Wow I have been searching high and low and couldn’t find a video I till I found yours and it was very helpful and informative great work like to see how it did in the water with a load
How did it run??? I have a 2000 ox66 200, same as yours, I am about to replace the pumps and saw this video. Just wondering how she ran after the mod. Any issues? Thanks buddy!
Anxious to see how it works for you after running it a while. Do you have specs for the pump? I’ve seen a couple variations of this and seems to me they had a return line to tank. Thanks for showing this in great detail.
I don't have specs but I do know it operates under 8psi which is what I mainly cared about to prevent any problems in the VST. It's the 4594 Carter I believe. I will verify and if it's different I'll reply here.
That Carter pump can dead head with no issues. No return line needed. It is low Amp draw and lasts years. I have one that has been in 3 different boats and is still going.
I have had a lot of issues with these pumps. Going to do the conversion. Wish you would list the parts you used in the description so there is no question about what to buy.
@@CatchingColoradothank you so much. I just changed my middle fuel pump. It was leaking after only 3 months. Really sick of these pumps so going electric is going to be a nice change. Already ordered the block off plates from Speed Doctor.
PAINLESS WIRING makes a GREAT fuel pump relay kit that I have used in several remote pump installs on outboards. It's a very nice kit and it is $40 and saves a lot of the pains you went through as well as providing a way to mount the relay more solidly. The CARTER pump is a fantastic pump and will probably last longer than the boat.
Hey brother, been looking for an ox66 to put on a project and came across your videos. These are really great breakdowns…. I have a question about this diaphragm pump system…. why would the factory even design the motor for three diaphragm pumps when all it takes, is one pump to get it up to the VST tank… is it because it’s cheaper and manual vacuum…
Hello, I have a Yamaha Ox66, year 2002, I would like to remove the lift pumps on its engine. It worked fine. How can I get the sheets to seal where the pumps go? Thank you.
first of all great video You have an awsome way of explaining stuff step by step also I noticed that you dont use ear muffs, is running water to the top with the flush hose safe for the motor and the impellar I have heard that yamaha does not recommend it do you have any comment I would appreciate it thanks
I've never had a problem. I also don't run the motor for very long but suffice it to say, if your motor has a pee stream, the impeller is getting water and pushing it through the proper channels. Make sure you have enough water pressure, no kinks in the hose and if the motor stops peeing, turn it off right away. Different motors might have different recommendations but for my ox66 this has worked fine.
Thanks again you seem very knowledgeable with your motor I have a 2002 Yamaha 225 I've had it for 20 plus years never had a problem with it until recently it's been running rough at about 2,000 rpms like in a long no-wake area it runs fine at three or four grand I've replace the filter in the VST tank and always every year replace a water separator filter even this past spring I replaced the mini filters in fuel injectors also replaced all three of the low pressure pumps I did everything I could do I'm stumpt have any ideas?
@@joeliddle6933 tps sensor might be off. Check it with a volt meter. Could be various other sensors but honestly, mine runs rough under 2k rpms as well especially on cold start. That's why I made this conversion mostly. Hoping it helps..most guys say it does
I suck at electrical, so... I'll ask what's probably obvious to everyone else. I know you used 10 gauge on the relay, but the copper wire trigger running from the VST, what are the specs on that wire? Also, what size fuse did you use for the in-line power wire to the relay? Thanks
Is this something needed on just the regular carbureted version? I have a 2001 Yamaha VMAX 150 with the TRP. Serial number is V150TLZR Can someone tell me if this is used on my motor aswell?
"Danger, Will Robinson!" The positive wire from the battery to the pump should be fused at the battery end. I didn't hear it mentioned in the video, and the write-ups I've read don't mention it either. But ALL electrical feeds from the battery should be fused as close to the battery as possible. What size fuse? The pump mfr should have a rating for this. The reason for locating the relay in a compartment separate from the gas is because a spark will jump from one contact to the other as the contact closes. Not a big deal unless there are fuel vapors at a combustible ratio in the area of the relay. The same reason not to operate a light switch if you smell natural gas. FWIW ... My HPDI 150 died on the way from the launch to the cabin when I put the pontoon in the water this year. I had to be towed home. I suspect the LP pumps and ordered two before seeing this. This change likely will occur later when taking the boat out of the water. Thanks for the video! Nice job.
Just did this. Connected the trigger wire from the fuel pump to the trigger wire on the high pressure pump. 1 week later. No power to either pump. Got any ideas?
The pump inside any compartment on a boat is an extreme fire hazard as the fuel line is now under pressure & if you have any leaks you're going to fill that area with gas!! With the original vacuum pump system your fuel lines are under a vacuum so if you get a leak you'll suck air! Personally I've never had a problem with the low pressure pumps & I have 3 outboards that use them. The pumps are easy to service & you can buy rebuild kits that are fairly cheap!
I understand your concern. Makes a lot of sense to me. To each their own... I decided to go this route after countless issues with my pumps even buying certified Yam parts and beefed up diaphragms. As they say, "Your mileage may vary". With anything, it's a good idea to stay on top of your fuel system and check periodically for problems.
Thanks so much for the video Im going to alot of trouble with my fuel sistem my filter never gets full and the motor is not running the way it should thanks again for the video can you tell me more info on the pump where to get it and how much they run thanks so much
If Yamaha would simply change the fuel pump diaphragm material to Viton in lieu of the cheap BUNA-N rubber I believe the fuel pump issues would be resolved. The exposure to ethanol is causing the problem.
Hello bud, first of all, I would like to thank you for this steps by steps vídeo to upgrade the fuel system in the outboard. I’m very interested in following your video to do the same job on my two 250hp OX66 Yamaha engines. I have found the pump, the relay with wiring like you listed, but unfortunately can not find the six plates needed to block the lift pumps holes. I did went to the web site you provided but could not find the plates. I wrote them an email requesting assistance and nothing. Do you by any chance have the part number for the plates? I would really appreciate it if you can assist me with these last parts needed to complete the upgrade. That you in advance for your support.
@@juanc.ortizlopez5285 find him on Facebook and shoot him a message.. it took him about a week to get back to me. I believe I ordered through their website. m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid0SbNrFBMXLUAU4fNhbbYJd9Zf3WXaVg38Zx7v6TaXnQrEf6S7sZguJTo2oa1FmH63l&id=100057202699196&mibextid=Nif5oz
Sorry brother but i want to get this correct. At the end you made some modifications. Battery negative straight to relay. Vst negative straight to relay. Red from vst to relay. Red from battery straight to relay. Am i correct here?
Just seen you deleted it. I wonder if you could just mount everything back at engine. Use vst pump wires to trigger relay and use starter wires to feed relay to feed new pump
Thank you for this video! I've just completed the conversion on my 250
2 trips so far and she's purring!
A few tips to anyone looking to do this.
Buy a waterproof pre wired relay assembly. 4 pin opposed to 5. ( if 5 pin is the only option, unplug relay, remove center yellow wire and connector rather than capping it. Seal the hole) They come with mounting screw. Which I fastened to the top pump block off plate.
This minimizes wiring and keeps the bulk of it in the cowling.
Wire a 30 amp inline fuse right off of the relay. Use heat shrink connectors and tinned copper wiring.
As an extra failsafe in the event the relay fails. Use opposite connectors on the power in (30) terminal and the power out (87) terminal. If the relay fails you can manually connect the two wires so the pump will be on all the time. This will get you home.
Also the block of plates, I Couldn't find them available online so make your own, 1in wide 1/4 thick aluminum flat bar, few holes (use old pump housing as a drill guide), just made rectangles, no need for curved shape(no sharp edges). Get a felpro gasket roll from the auto store use a hammer punch. Cost around $25 so Save ya some bones
Also since I've no personal trust in the electric pump/ brand (Carter). It's performance, longevity in salty environment. I can't say much other than it is cheap enough so buy a second pump, double vacuum seal it along with the hardware and keep it on deck. It's important to pre wire the connectors the same as your in use pump.
Hopefully you'll never need it, but it's a hell of an insurance policy for an extra $60 some bucks.
Good luck, I'll be sure to update as time goes on.
Great Reply. Thanks for the tips
Could this low pressure fuel pump delete possibly work on the carburettor yamaha 250hp v6? Obviously need to ascertain relay power source but would be interested to hear any opinions. Regards
Great video. I have a 2003 o66x. Awesome engine but lift pumps go bad constantly.
Wow I have been searching high and low and couldn’t find a video I till I found yours and it was very helpful and informative great work like to see how it did in the water with a load
Glad i found this juat bought me a 04 skeeter with a 200 vmax on it great video. Hopefully i can get the block off plates still
I love the detail! Very easy to follow and well explained! New subscriber!
How did it run??? I have a 2000 ox66 200, same as yours, I am about to replace the pumps and saw this video. Just wondering how she ran after the mod. Any issues? Thanks buddy!
excellent video, can you put a link to the fuel pump, they usually go by gpm I think?
Using mine for a year now , no issues . I keep a spare on the boat with bullet connections just in case . 02 225 vmax 🤘🏽
You have the same motor what psi is yours
Thank you so much for making this video. Absolutely perfect! 😊
Happy to contribute!!
Anxious to see how it works for you after running it a while. Do you have specs for the pump? I’ve seen a couple variations of this and seems to me they had a return line to tank. Thanks for showing this in great detail.
I don't have specs but I do know it operates under 8psi which is what I mainly cared about to prevent any problems in the VST. It's the 4594 Carter I believe. I will verify and if it's different I'll reply here.
That Carter pump can dead head with no issues. No return line needed. It is low Amp draw and lasts years. I have one that has been in 3 different boats and is still going.
I have had a lot of issues with these pumps. Going to do the conversion. Wish you would list the parts you used in the description so there is no question about what to buy.
Check the description
@@CatchingColoradothank you so much. I just changed my middle fuel pump. It was leaking after only 3 months. Really sick of these pumps so going electric is going to be a nice change. Already ordered the block off plates from Speed Doctor.
How is the filter housing holding up to being pressurized?
PAINLESS WIRING makes a GREAT fuel pump relay kit that I have used in several remote pump installs on outboards. It's a very nice kit and it is $40 and saves a lot of the pains you went through as well as providing a way to mount the relay more solidly. The CARTER pump is a fantastic pump and will probably last longer than the boat.
Great to know. Thanks for the post. Maybe list the product link?
I need those plates to cover the vacuum holes
Can you put a different link?
Hey brother, been looking for an ox66 to put on a project and came across your videos. These are really great breakdowns…. I have a question about this diaphragm pump system…. why would the factory even design the motor for three diaphragm pumps when all it takes, is one pump to get it up to the VST tank… is it because it’s cheaper and manual vacuum…
Are you planning on doing a follow up video and how is this mod working at wot?
Hello, I have a Yamaha Ox66, year 2002, I would like to remove the lift pumps on its engine. It worked fine. How can I get the sheets to seal where the pumps go? Thank you.
first of all great video You have an awsome way of explaining stuff step by step also I noticed that you dont use ear muffs, is running water to the top with the flush hose safe for the motor and the impellar I have heard that yamaha does not recommend it do you have any comment I would appreciate it thanks
I've never had a problem. I also don't run the motor for very long but suffice it to say, if your motor has a pee stream, the impeller is getting water and pushing it through the proper channels. Make sure you have enough water pressure, no kinks in the hose and if the motor stops peeing, turn it off right away. Different motors might have different recommendations but for my ox66 this has worked fine.
Thanks again you seem very knowledgeable with your motor I have a 2002 Yamaha 225 I've had it for 20 plus years never had a problem with it until recently it's been running rough at about 2,000 rpms like in a long no-wake area it runs fine at three or four grand I've replace the filter in the VST tank and always every year replace a water separator filter even this past spring I replaced the mini filters in fuel injectors also replaced all three of the low pressure pumps I did everything I could do I'm stumpt have any ideas?
@@joeliddle6933 tps sensor might be off. Check it with a volt meter. Could be various other sensors but honestly, mine runs rough under 2k rpms as well especially on cold start. That's why I made this conversion mostly. Hoping it helps..most guys say it does
I suck at electrical, so... I'll ask what's probably obvious to everyone else. I know you used 10 gauge on the relay, but the copper wire trigger running from the VST, what are the specs on that wire? Also, what size fuse did you use for the in-line power wire to the relay? Thanks
Great video. Thanks.
Great video!!! Very well done.
Thank you! Hope it helps
Hey, my fuel tank is at the front of my boat, about 15 feet from the motor. Would this pump be able to pull the fuel with no problems?
Having issues with my ox66 where can I get this pump and plates to cover vacuum holes
I have a 1999 ox66 200 it only has 2 lift pumps.. ive looked and its not missing 1 doesn't have a spot for a 3rd ever hear of that?
Can you give more info on the pump where can I buy it and what price they range thanks.
Carter 4594 Amazon
Is this something needed on just the regular carbureted version? I have a 2001 Yamaha VMAX 150 with the TRP. Serial number is V150TLZR
Can someone tell me if this is used on my motor aswell?
"Danger, Will Robinson!" The positive wire from the battery to the pump should be fused at the battery end. I didn't hear it mentioned in the video, and the write-ups I've read don't mention it either. But ALL electrical feeds from the battery should be fused as close to the battery as possible. What size fuse? The pump mfr should have a rating for this.
The reason for locating the relay in a compartment separate from the gas is because a spark will jump from one contact to the other as the contact closes. Not a big deal unless there are fuel vapors at a combustible ratio in the area of the relay. The same reason not to operate a light switch if you smell natural gas.
FWIW ... My HPDI 150 died on the way from the launch to the cabin when I put the pontoon in the water this year. I had to be towed home. I suspect the LP pumps and ordered two before seeing this. This change likely will occur later when taking the boat out of the water. Thanks for the video! Nice job.
Just did this. Connected the trigger wire from the fuel pump to the trigger wire on the high pressure pump. 1 week later. No power to either pump. Got any ideas?
The pump inside any compartment on a boat is an extreme fire hazard as the fuel line is now under pressure & if you have any leaks you're going to fill that area with gas!! With the original vacuum pump system your fuel lines are under a vacuum so if you get a leak you'll suck air! Personally I've never had a problem with the low pressure pumps & I have 3 outboards that use them. The pumps are easy to service & you can buy rebuild kits that are fairly cheap!
I understand your concern. Makes a lot of sense to me. To each their own... I decided to go this route after countless issues with my pumps even buying certified Yam parts and beefed up diaphragms. As they say, "Your mileage may vary". With anything, it's a good idea to stay on top of your fuel system and check periodically for problems.
Thanks so much for the video Im going to alot of trouble with my fuel sistem my filter never gets full and the motor is not running the way it should thanks again for the video can you tell me more info on the pump where to get it and how much they run thanks so much
Amazon. I think it's the Carter 4594. Make sure its legit by checking for a serial number on it. @@josejacobo8229
Wonder if this can be done on a regular HPDI
I don't see why not. Same setup?
If youre worried about the fuel line being under pressure use a fuel injection hose and double clamp it
Great idea.
why not just get rid the vst altogehter and put a high pressure pump lower than thank?
If Yamaha would simply change the fuel pump diaphragm material to Viton in lieu of the cheap BUNA-N rubber I believe the fuel pump issues would be resolved. The exposure to ethanol is causing the problem.
What kind of pump do I need?
Carter p4594
To clear it up. Fuel line engine side is 5/16"
Where do you get the little metal plates and gasket to seal?
Speed Doctor Racing components
@@CatchingColorado Im there looking for those plates, but can’t find them.
Hello bud, first of all, I would like to thank you for this steps by steps vídeo to upgrade the fuel system in the outboard. I’m very interested in following your video to do the same job on my two 250hp OX66 Yamaha engines. I have found the pump, the relay with wiring like you listed, but unfortunately can not find the six plates needed to block the lift pumps holes. I did went to the web site you provided but could not find the plates. I wrote them an email requesting assistance and nothing. Do you by any chance have the part number for the plates? I would really appreciate it if you can assist me with these last parts needed to complete the upgrade. That you in advance for your support.
@@juanc.ortizlopez5285 find him on Facebook and shoot him a message.. it took him about a week to get back to me. I believe I ordered through their website. m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid0SbNrFBMXLUAU4fNhbbYJd9Zf3WXaVg38Zx7v6TaXnQrEf6S7sZguJTo2oa1FmH63l&id=100057202699196&mibextid=Nif5oz
What does it have to do with throttle response? The vst should already be full of fuel
Do you have a link for the fuel pump?
amzn.to/47BeSdV
Thanks for the swift reply i seen it on Amazon and was wondering if that was it. Still running strong no issues?
@@kevinhill3549 better than ever!
Sorry brother but i want to get this correct. At the end you made some modifications. Battery negative straight to relay. Vst negative straight to relay. Red from vst to relay. Red from battery straight to relay. Am i correct here?
@@kevinhill3549 no. The correct diagram is in the video at 26 minute mark. The ground does not go to the relay. It goes directly to the pump.
Guess its ethanol causing those issues man my OX66 pumps last 8years
Has anybody tried the delete with carb motor?
How is this working currently after 9 months
Zero Issues! Works better than ever!
Did you remove the primer bulb? May have missed it in video
Just seen you deleted it. I wonder if you could just mount everything back at engine. Use vst pump wires to trigger relay and use starter wires to feed relay to feed new pump
all purpose of that video is to make you buy aftermarket parts. that's it. sad.