Wooden Shingles
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ธ.ค. 2019
- Ease way to make wood singles using a sawmill: Strong flat board, wooden blocks , two one square inch sticks (hinge/handle) and one quarter inch stick (spacer to rise/lower handle end of block).
When blocks of wood become too thin for cutting more shingles, just put some of them together, using water proof glue, to make a bigger block and use it again. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Around 1975 Dad had a bundle of cedar shakes in the barn where I worked on my car. Had a little wood stove for heat. Those shingles made perfect kindling. I hardly remember dad being so mad at me.
lol
Funny 😅
Source for door shims and spacers too. The best jig I've seen so far.Thanks.
And by the way this is the best setup I've seen. I also have the 126 and love it. Thanks so much for posting.
You just saved us all alot of money compared to what a commercial jig costs.
Thanks for sharing your experience
Glad to hear that. You can get more shingles out of the wooden block by cutting them 1/8 to 1/4 thick. In this case, a 1/8 spacer should be used. Any question related to set up, feel free to contact me.
Thank you Sir for posting.....the best procedure I have ever seen.A blessing to watch a craftsman.
You are very welcome
im so happy i found this video. i wasnt even looking for it but its exactly what i need to do in a few months
Thanks for the video, I am going to try this setup myself.
Good. Contact me if you need some information.
I really appreciate the video. Looking for a simple and inexpensive way to do this, and this is perfect!
I wish I could do a better video but, I don't have enough experience; it's not my area.
If you need some info on your set-up, feel free to contact me. Thanks.
I’m going to make me one of these jigs!!! Simple and effective. Thank you for sharing!!!
If you need help with the setup, contact me. Thanks.
Using a jig is such a great idea! Thanks for the inspiration! The wife wants me to try and do some flooring from our pine and this will definitely help out!
Thanks, Thomas, for the comment. This was my first time cutting shingles. I used 1/4" space and alternating the high of the head by 1/4 to 1/2 in order to get shingles 1/4 to 1/2 and or 1/2 to 1/4. You can play with head adjustment and or use thicker/thinner spacers to get the thickness you want. If you need some help with the set-up, feel free to contact me.
Nice job! thinking about getting one of these mills
That is an ingenious way to make uniform shingles. I like it 👍👍
Glad you like it
Great presentation
Simple and effective .....I Like it.
Brilliant!
Killer idea!
Best way I have seen yet
ABSOLUTEY AWSOME
Nice job
If I could give you 2 thumbs up I would...very ingenious!
Thanks, James
Nicely done
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing......brilliant
Glad you enjoyed it
Very good.
Thanks!
Looks like you need a cordless blower. Thanks for the idea
I’m building a cob air bnb house and want wood shingles. Thought about doing it by hand, but it would just take too long. I’m going to try this setup. Thanks for the video.
Any question when doing your setup, just let me know. I would be glad to help you.
Just got the same mill as yours. Would like to see a video on how you built that jig.
Jerry, it's a very simple jig: one horizontal board with two inches board attached to the opposite sides of the clamp. One inch of this two inches board will stick up to support the wooden block and prevent it from twisting when the blade is cutting. The wooden block is attached to the horizontal board using 1x1inc. sticker. If you need some more information, please let me know. Sorry about the late reply.
I like the setup and I am just wondering if you have an idea of how long it takes to cut the equivalent of a “store bought” bundle ? Thanks for sharing
I never buy shingles and or I don't know how many in the bundle. The amount depends on the number of blocks and the quick placing and removing spacers at every pass. The video was in real time and the action was like cutting regular boards.
Please post a picture of where you used these shingles
Cool jig. Shingles are super expensive.
Yes they are!
Very clever! I have a lot of Pine which I would like to make into roof shingles. I know with Canadian Cedar, Linseed oil is used to treat them. What do you use to treat your shingles? And what wood is this in the video ?
Clever as hell! I can see lots of ways to speed up the process too like push-pull toggles and maybe a "cam" to lift and lower the block. Wide shingles are spendy and getting harder to find. Not using any water?
It looks like I forgot to turn water on. Also, we can use small steel hinges under blocks to go lower with the blade and getting more shingles. Thanks Jeff for you comment.
That is such a simple idea and it works, are the blocks just held in by the stop they are up against and their weight? You are clever.
Each block is attached to the horizontal board using the first stick (hinge). Two screws to the board and two screws to the block.
Can I get a idea of how much a machine like this cost. Again thanks for sharing you made look simple I would like to try make a few thousand I need for the cabin
Jose, the actual price for this machine is $3,199.00. You can get more accurate info by visiting manufacturer: woodlandmills.com. Thanks.
watched other videos of someone with bandsaw making lap siding with a jig from another saw manufacturer. I wonder if you could put can't blocks sideways from what you have with a jig for lap siding and do 10 to 12 at a time. never used a saw mill but just wondered
look for NORTHWEST SAWYER for what I was talking about
If the cutting path of the machine is wide enough, it can be done. But, never make the cut along the grain because the undesirable saw dust produced this way.
Awesome! What are those 1x1 sticks attached to each block doing?
The first one (left) is the one that holds the wooden block to the flat board. It is also acting as a hinge. The second one (right) is just a handle to lift the end of the block in order to place/remove the spacer.
When I saw how much the jigs to do this cost, I wondered if this would work!
It did work for me very well.
Cool video. What are you going to do with the shingles? Post pic or video on them
I used some for a roof section of one shed. I have a second shed where I'll be using some more.
@@guillo2388 well cool. When you do the next shed show us how you do it.
What species of wood are you sawing? What wood makes the best shingles? Thanks
I was sawing white oak. According to Google info, there are other wood what can be used for shingles: black locust, honey locust, redwood, cedar, rock elm, etc.
how do you think bering spuce shingles would fair
Spruce is bomber....
I suppose you could put your blocks vertically say after they got to a 5-6" depth. That would give you some varying widths.
When blocks are too small to make more cuts, I put some of them together using waterproof glue. This way I get one more workable blocks.
Beautiful....watched all over again is that cedar
It is oak
Pretty cool shingle maker. Did you build the wood shed as well?
Thanks William. Actually, there are two sheds. The smaller one was built using most of the lumber from Home Depot/Lowe's. The bigger one I used rail-road ties as pillars. The rest of the lumber was cut using the milling machine.
@@guillo2388 Cool. Thanks!
What hold a the block from jumping I would like to no.
Raymond, I would say gravity prevents the block from jumping. Also, as you can see, the block is attached to the platform (horizontal board ) using the first 1"X1" stick.
great idea what is the size of your shingles?
Long-16", thickness: one end-1/4", the other one -1/2. Width is variable, depending in the block of wood.
thanks for getting back to me
is the machine Mills hm 122 or 126?
It is 126
What are the dimensions of the finished shingle? Thanks
Long-16", thickness: one end-1/4", the other one -1/2. Width is variable, depending on the block of wood.
What ist the thiknes of the shingel
One end is 1/4", the other end is 1/2"
How much do you lower the blade for each pass?
-Pass with spacer under right end, lower head (blade) 1/4"
-Pass without spacer under right end, lower head (blade) 1/2"
You can make them any thickness as long as you cut one time at a thickness you want the thick end and then half as thick on every other cut.
Probably a dumb question, but did you dry the blocks before cutting the shingles?
No, I didn't. In order to dry lumber, one year is needed for every inch thick.
What I did was to soak shingles in a solution of used motor oil and diesel fuel (50/50)
@@guillo2388 Very nice, what type wood is this and where did you end up installing these on a home?
@@OptionsJunkie The wood used was white oak. I installed some of those shingle on the front short section of the roof of one of my sheds.
What did you use for the bottom and side boards for the frame? (2" X 12")
The horizontal board (bottom) is 1.5"X11". The vertical one (side support) is 2.5"X1.5".
@@guillo2388 Thank you so much. Getting ready to cut cedar for our house and your system will definitely work for me. Blessings and have a great 4th.
@@davidbauknight61 Before cutting the blocks out of the can, I suggest placing a mark on what is going to be the top face of each block. This way there will be good shingles right from the first pass.
Also, the remaining of each block can be used to make additional blocks using waterproof glue.
@@guillo2388 Great idea. I've even thought of turning the cant 90 degrees so the grain will be in line with the blade and make the grain stand out a little more. I have a blade that has two teeth that have a little more "rake" and gives a more grainey texture. Any thoughts? Thanks for your ideas and suggestions.
@@davidbauknight61 Be careful when cutting along the grain. It creates an angel air like dust what accumulate in the pullers and belt, crashing the machine.
worst cameraman ever js
Sorry g maurstad; I was half way doing this job when I decided to grab the phone and record part of the process.
I just wanted to share the way I did it, just in case someone would like to take advantage of the setup.