Haven't even finished watching but this jig you did is fantastic! GREAT work, it's so nice to see someone who takes pride in their hobby like this! Thank you for what you do =)
from one garage mechanic to another i love your approach and i would have done the same thing...however its not what the axles goes through during driving, i had the plastic axles and they snapped but are cheap to replace....i did the traxxas performance axles, and it was not the axle it self but rather the dog bone's cross pin that sheared, not just on one axle but one by one they all failed, even in the center driveline....i bought the MIP's good they are, but now it was not the axles failing but the diff's...i eventually learned one thing SET YOUR SLIPPER RIGHT AND THERE IS NO PROBLEMS, yes once in a while you will snap an axle, they are wear items like so many other parts...traxxas performance axles just extended the the service interval...mip axles, made axles breaking a thing of the past, but now i had to take the diff out and rebuild it...no thanks i will buy a handful of traxxas plastic axles and let them take the abuse rather than having to take the truck apart....i love bashing and i hate downtime...a set of axles is way easier to fix than taking the truck apart to do the diff's or something else....just set your slipper to slip a few feet like the manual says, and you will be fine for the most part.....rc is a money pit...and i love it!!!
Steel shafts also add wheight to the car. If you wan't a car to be able to withstand alot of bashing, it is best to swap out heavy pieces with aluminum and titanium parts, and lighter wheels. I did this on my E-Maxx brushless and it can take alot of beating.
+imgone- dont say traxxas is junk, i own tons of traxxas rc's as well as losi, hpi, and other brands as well, and traxxas outstands and outperforms anything the competition has to offer, and i have also had a lot of experience with traxxas. and if you do break something on a traxxas, they have a full lifetime warranty for their cars, so they will replace parts that break if you call their customer service.
I love this video, and since I’m in the market for new driveshafts I watched it again, I know a guy who money is virtually no object and he swears by the MIP axles. I’ve been able to find them new for about $75 a pair, so that’s not so bad. And after rewatching this, as much as I think the Traxxas axle weakened the jig, I guess the MIP showed its muscle. Thanks again!
Yeah, i think it's the shock loading that breaks them mostly. I had a traxxas tmaxx and used to glue a wooden dowel down the center of the plastic axle to keep them from twisting.
very helpful I bought a revo 2 weeks ago and have went crazy buying parts have 10 cars and this one is my favorite as of right now just broke axel last night and thought about going a different route I'll stick to stock big thumbs up
That company with the splined axle should send you a box full of them for the great advertising eh!! The weather probably has a big affect on the plastic one!! Good stuff Buddy!!☺
I like the way the Summit axle's have an enclosed area around the u-joint, my E Revo has an ear to retain the joint, the Summit axle would not have broken like mine did
My erevo 2.0 just broke front plastic shaft. It broke just b4. The swivels. I got the up grade trexxas shaft. Just put the front 1 in want to break the rear plastic b4 I put heavy duty in. Good video.
The speed rate makes a difference as well as the temperature. In the cold weather, metals become brittle and the harder the metal the quicker it snaps. The speed at which the pressure is applied will make a difference as the buoyancy of the different metal will react differently. The video is good though, your conclusion is correct, the MIP's are much better than the either of those Traxxas axles, I've used both and Traxxas always snaps. The Traxxas metal axles dog bone is the part that breaks, the axle itself doesnt. If youre snapping axles though, you may want to adjust your slip clutch, especially in the cold weather.
Just by having a metal CV joint instead of a universal joint is what makes the after market heavy duty drive shafts better than the factory tracks is drive shafts
Yup I put lipo’s and a Robinson’s clutch into my off the shelf Erevo . Wow amazing fast as hell the speed app no longer works and it tore itself apart . This Noobie sat down and hit youtube. The last one is heat treated all of it that sir has been in a furnace to be that strong 🦾.
Another way you could test the drive shafts is to put the in the jig you have but hook a high speed drill where your torque wrenches now then hook a pully to the other end with a band around it and then hook the torque wrench around the band and tightin down until it breaks this would stimulate high speed in the car
I agree with all the positive comments...my only issue was that you didnt seem to take safety into account...dont bend over a part your twisting...asking for trouble.
Good video, but if I have one criticism it's that he is inducing the torque on the hub side where the torque is produced inboard on the vehicle so it puts much more stress on the inner joints which are where most able brake occur.
I definitely agree that the splines are a way better option to offer lengths changes and since I drive a monster truck, there’s a lot of suspension travel, and therefore the length should constantly be changing. Great video!
You've made a great video, a great driveshaft testing tool, and I like the way you're testing the driveshaft. However once you started loading torque on the driveshaft and they started twisting up, I felt and feel that once the driveshaft is bend it is no good. So it doesn't matter if they break or not, once they get out of round the r/c user should see and noticed that in a vibration or decreased performance. Also in very rare situations, Will you have one part of the drivetrain locked up and the other part delivering torque in such a way that you're going to bend driveshafts like that. We know the strength is there, But what we're looking for is longevity.
The problem with strong axles on an e Revo 1.0 is the diffs are weak. I run plastic shafts so I can break those which are quick to change out in the field instead of the diff.
awesome test, makes me wanna go for the splined axles as apposed to the traxxas ones. was really contemplating them considering their price, but since there is a better option why not
If you lived close to me, we'd be best friends. Same interests. You need a snow kit for your CR500AF. I've wanted one of those bikes for a while, owned a few old school 500's back in the day. Good stuff man, good stuff.
wow i am very impressed by your set up here! on thing though, as you're slowly putting on the torque you're giving the molecules in the axles time to move, whereas if you were to throw on torque at a faster pace you would be simulating what the RCs are doing when they break those axles. problem is, its hard to get a reading off that.
best way to test them would be to fix one side of the shaft to a jig and use an impact wrench to batter the thing back and forth simulating driveline shock load.
i think the original 1 of the truck broke because of sudden impacts. When you jump something the wheels wil go to a higher speed and then when it lands everything turns at the higher speed and then all of a sudden its slowed down a lot. And because the tube would flex back again that would still look okay. But the u joint thing got a beating a few times and started to crack. But still a nice test of those axles.
Yep, I guess the other thing is trying not to slam your e-revo into a mail box at full speed on 6s. Didn't go so well for it. = $25 chassis $15 bulkhead $30 all steering components $100 new lipos (they got smashed lol) and probably more that I have not discovered. And it hit the front A arm straight on and it broke the metal pin holding the arm in place but not the arm.... Keep those videos coming!
You can find a 2moto kit used for 2000 - 2500. If you plan to be in much powder the Timbersled kit may be the way to go though. Those are 4000-6000 depending on which one you want.
I've broken 2 steel traxxas CVD's on my 1.0 in the last two weeks. I only broke 1 plastic axle in 2 years and that was with 6s. I think the plastic ones take less beating due to their give. I thought about going to summit axles but I'm having a hard time finding a set. Supposedly their stronger that the e-revo ones while being plastic
firstly thanks for the detailed review, good thinking with the positioning of the tool to mimic the real setup. however, having said this, the fact that you are slowly turning the wrench to see the amount of pressure. this does not happen in the real world. the RC internal components would not take this amount of pressure anyway. I have found the reason the traxxas plastic shafts break is due to the heavy weight on the tyres and a sudden jolt like turn in the opposite direction of the wheel momentum. in other words the joints and plastic do not last to sudden change and as a result they snap. this is also similar to fiber glass where slow controlled flexing would be find but sudden shock can cause them to break like when you drop a fiber glass bike frame.
Pretty interesting test. Personally i preffer the traxxas metal shafts since they are so cost effective and in the real world the odds of snapping them are un likely. I actually found it impressive that you broke the factory ones even. But i know brushless power is becoming more and more crazy. Personally im a nitro guy, and i've never had problems even with the factory axials on my old tmaxx. Now i have a savage 4.6 but it uses the steel shafts like the traxxas aftermarket ones. Now im building a revo .28 and im using the stock shafts cuz im on a budget build and they seem decent quality. Ultimately it was neat seeing these shafts go through extreme testing.
Wow 7 lbs that a good bit for a little axle i had a stampede and would egg shape the holes because your full throttle in the air and when you land it would stop and crack them
Hello, mostly not the total torque damages the drive shaft/couplings but more the frequency of torque peaks that wears down the bearings/pins like crazy. Gr. Chip. this is what i'm designing see /user/forquip
Great job, nice jig! I'm wondering how you could test shock with that jig? maybe some type of clutch you could engage? The slow introduction of force isn't how these things fail which I know you are aware so I think you should get a drill spinning something like a flywheel you can engage somehow? It would be very helpful and more destructive to watch of course! Thanks again, still an informative video!
E-revo brushless edition. Also as a note the MIP's improve acceleration as they don't flex at all. I also wonder about the TVR ball-X claiming to be the strongest,but they are extremely expensive! As some future advice, the diff case and chassis are also not very strong and plan on replacing those if you crash straight into something. Surprisingly, in the 4 years I have owned my e-revo I have never broke the A-arms.
I believe it's the shock as the car starts moving, not the torque from the motor that snaps the axles. This test would be accurate if these axles were going on a crawler such as the traxxas summit because that's when slow torque would come into play.
I have an E Revo brushless and I say just stick with the stock drive shafts if you want your vehicle raised just a tad more than factory. mip pins always snap on me and there 12$ vs the stock ones cost less and last longer. and the upgraded traxxas drive shafts fall out unless you get the dog bone cup upgrade, than you will just break the pin or shafts of the drive shafts after 2 or 3 days but there good if not raised. I will never buy MIP again barely lasts one day of driving and i even had my slipper clutch more loose than normal and it still breaks. There stuff is over Priced. spent close to 200+ $ hopeing i just had defective parts adjusting different stuff no improvement. it can not handle the torque on and off.
although the test is neat, it is flawed...there is a big difference in your slow torsional load applied to the shaft assemblies, and the high speed torsional load imposed in a drive train. If a slipper clutch is adjusted properly, this will never be a real concern. burning a slipper clutch is a small expense compared to a drive line, Slipper clutches are an expendable "fuse" in a drive line. As you have shown on your original failed shaft, high speed torsional loads will break the shaft in a different area.
If I would have had some I would have tested them also, I should gather up some more axles for round two, if anybody has more axles they want to see tested let us know in the comments here
Sweet... Nice test for those into RC's and it was fun to watch to see which axle was going to be the toughest.... on this torture test anyhow.... LOL . Merrie~Merrie
I like the Ball X, little dissapointing they chose to go with dog bones on one end, what axles do you normally use on yours? I really dont mind the plastic axle idea, kind of a parts saver axle but weak ends. I likely will change mine over to plastic Traxxas Summit axles, I have some here now and I really like the way they are made, steel cv's on both ends and a much better design on the shaft ends, check them out if you haven't already
Interesting test I had a set of mip drive shafts for my slash and i still ended up snapping all four of them. Was pretty disappointed since they are pretty expensive
So the problem I can see with this testing method is that it really isn't an accurate simulation of the force at work on an axle. The force comes in as quick shocks, like wheels spinning really fast then hitting the ground and coming to a dead stop. I've blown out 2 stub axles now on the flange where they interface with the main shaft.
I always wanted to see the axles tested like this. You did a great job.
Haven't even finished watching but this jig you did is fantastic! GREAT work, it's so nice to see someone who takes pride in their hobby like this! Thank you for what you do =)
I found with the MIP rust badly. bashing wise it's shit
@@ansonmah5916 Really? Huh, and I was totally sold on them.
Please don't get me wrong your testing and your set up is awesome me being an engine builder can appreciate everything you're doing
Is it only me or he simply didnt show the video of MIP axle testing?
if you had seen the entire vid, you would see why..
I'm happy to hear you enjoyed it, helps make tearing stuff up worth while
from one garage mechanic to another i love your approach and i would have done the same thing...however its not what the axles goes through during driving, i had the plastic axles and they snapped but are cheap to replace....i did the traxxas performance axles, and it was not the axle it self but rather the dog bone's cross pin that sheared, not just on one axle but one by one they all failed, even in the center driveline....i bought the MIP's good they are, but now it was not the axles failing but the diff's...i eventually learned one thing SET YOUR SLIPPER RIGHT AND THERE IS NO PROBLEMS, yes once in a while you will snap an axle, they are wear items like so many other parts...traxxas performance axles just extended the the service interval...mip axles, made axles breaking a thing of the past, but now i had to take the diff out and rebuild it...no thanks i will buy a handful of traxxas plastic axles and let them take the abuse rather than having to take the truck apart....i love bashing and i hate downtime...a set of axles is way easier to fix than taking the truck apart to do the diff's or something else....just set your slipper to slip a few feet like the manual says, and you will be fine for the most part.....rc is a money pit...and i love it!!!
100% accurate^
Steel shafts also add wheight to the car. If you wan't a car to be able to withstand alot of bashing, it is best to swap out heavy pieces with aluminum and titanium parts, and lighter wheels. I did this on my E-Maxx brushless and it can take alot of beating.
imgone 😄 Traxxas doesn't interest me at all
+imgone- dont say traxxas is junk, i own tons of traxxas rc's as well as losi, hpi, and other brands as well, and traxxas outstands and outperforms anything the competition has to offer, and i have also had a lot of experience with traxxas. and if you do break something on a traxxas, they have a full lifetime warranty for their cars, so they will replace parts that break if you call their customer service.
Also if u make the truck bullet proved, the next thing that will break is the wheel or tire and those run at around $100 a set. Ouch!!
I love this video, and since I’m in the market for new driveshafts I watched it again, I know a guy who money is virtually no object and he swears by the MIP axles. I’ve been able to find them new for about $75 a pair, so that’s not so bad. And after rewatching this, as much as I think the Traxxas axle weakened the jig, I guess the MIP showed its muscle. Thanks again!
excellent test . Looks like you can take the mip axle and put it on the truck . The mips are frigging expensive and now we know why.
That jig is damn genius! I can’t wait to see the results! Wow that was very cool to watch and a really good way to test those.
Yeah, i think it's the shock loading that breaks them mostly. I had a traxxas tmaxx and used to glue a wooden dowel down the center of the plastic axle to keep them from twisting.
very helpful I bought a revo 2 weeks ago and have went crazy buying parts have 10 cars and this one is my favorite as of right now just broke axel last night and thought about going a different route I'll stick to stock big thumbs up
That company with the splined axle should send you a box full of them for the great advertising eh!! The weather probably has a big affect on the plastic one!! Good stuff Buddy!!☺
Always interesting to see what you're up to sir! Well done, I don't have a RC car but still enjoyed the method of testing
I’ve run MIP and had zero issues. Also updated plastic a arms and ball carriers to RPM for one durable truck. Those are must do’s to any rc.
could you put a link to where you bought them? looking for an exact place to purchase
Nice video! Thanks for sacrificing parts for showing us the tests!
I like the way the Summit axle's have an enclosed area around the u-joint, my E Revo has an ear to retain the joint, the Summit axle would not have broken like mine did
My erevo 2.0 just broke front plastic shaft. It broke just b4. The swivels. I got the up grade trexxas shaft. Just put the front 1 in want to break the rear plastic b4 I put heavy duty in. Good video.
Finally someone did a very in formative video THANK YOU
The speed rate makes a difference as well as the temperature. In the cold weather, metals become brittle and the harder the metal the quicker it snaps. The speed at which the pressure is applied will make a difference as the buoyancy of the different metal will react differently. The video is good though, your conclusion is correct, the MIP's are much better than the either of those Traxxas axles, I've used both and Traxxas always snaps. The Traxxas metal axles dog bone is the part that breaks, the axle itself doesnt. If youre snapping axles though, you may want to adjust your slip clutch, especially in the cold weather.
Just by having a metal CV joint instead of a universal joint is what makes the after market heavy duty drive shafts better than the factory tracks is drive shafts
You could start your own R&D business. You've definitely got the knack for it.
Yup I put lipo’s and a Robinson’s clutch into my off the shelf Erevo .
Wow amazing fast as hell the speed app no longer works and it tore itself apart .
This Noobie sat down and hit youtube. The last one is heat treated all of it that sir has been in a furnace to be that strong 🦾.
Another way you could test the drive shafts is to put the in the jig you have but hook a high speed drill where your torque wrenches now then hook a pully to the other end with a band around it and then hook the torque wrench around the band and tightin down until it breaks this would stimulate high speed in the car
Thanks, this is some crazy power from a Mamba monster electric motor
I agree with all the positive comments...my only issue was that you didnt seem to take safety into account...dont bend over a part your twisting...asking for trouble.
Love this vid! Big thumbs up!!
Good video, but if I have one criticism it's that he is inducing the torque on the hub side where the torque is produced inboard on the vehicle so it puts much more stress on the inner joints which are where most able brake occur.
Awesome thing about Traxxas is huge parts stock piles on Ebay and cheap, always find what I want
Yes, now I recommend using hard case lipos as they are not effected as much from the g forces of 65 or 0 in 0 seconds.
Thanks, I would like to do some more axle testing under more realistic conditions, I will put it in the bucket list
I definitely agree that the splines are a way better option to offer lengths changes and since I drive a monster truck, there’s a lot of suspension travel, and therefore the length should constantly be changing. Great video!
You've made a great video, a great driveshaft testing tool, and I like the way you're testing the driveshaft. However once you started loading torque on the driveshaft and they started twisting up, I felt and feel that once the driveshaft is bend it is no good. So it doesn't matter if they break or not, once they get out of round the r/c user should see and noticed that in a vibration or decreased performance. Also in very rare situations, Will you have one part of the drivetrain locked up and the other part delivering torque in such a way that you're going to bend driveshafts like that. We know the strength is there, But what we're looking for is longevity.
The problem with strong axles on an e Revo 1.0 is the diffs are weak. I run plastic shafts so I can break those which are quick to change out in the field instead of the diff.
I love these videos from Groutaone, This dude has the coolest videos on You tube.
awesome test, makes me wanna go for the splined axles as apposed to the traxxas ones. was really contemplating them considering their price, but since there is a better option why not
If you lived close to me, we'd be best friends. Same interests. You need a snow kit for your CR500AF. I've wanted one of those bikes for a while, owned a few old school 500's back in the day. Good stuff man, good stuff.
same here G.im telling u we are so alike man. its crazy.
you need your own TV show ehh ? :-D i check everyday for new videos from you ,. these videos are better than most of the crap out there !
I used that old thing for years, rebuilt my share of V-8's with it, lovin the clicker though
wow i am very impressed by your set up here! on thing though, as you're slowly putting on the torque you're giving the molecules in the axles time to move, whereas if you were to throw on torque at a faster pace you would be simulating what the RCs are doing when they break those axles. problem is, its hard to get a reading off that.
That would make your channel the best on TH-cam!
you`re always building something .... cool video
Seems like it's more actual instant torque that snaps them than gradual torque.
Thanks for checking it out
best way to test them would be to fix one side of the shaft to a jig and use an impact wrench to batter the thing back and forth simulating driveline shock load.
My thoughts exactly..
Great. Don't mind paying more as long as I'm getting more.
MIP my next axles
Thanks for breaking some parts for our viewing pleasure! Haha. I'm surprised you already broke an axle already, you just got that truck!
i think the original 1 of the truck broke because of sudden impacts. When you jump something the wheels wil go to a higher speed and then when it lands everything turns at the higher speed and then all of a sudden its slowed down a lot. And because the tube would flex back again that would still look okay. But the u joint thing got a beating a few times and started to crack. But still a nice test of those axles.
I was surprised that the plastic tube gave up before the joints on the stock Traxxas axle
you will be much loved from the fellas at traxxas forums
Thanks for watching, not into guns much, may make some vids though
G1, you could make paint drying interesting. Thanks for another cool vid!
Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Yep, I guess the other thing is trying not to slam your e-revo into a mail box at full speed on 6s. Didn't go so well for it. = $25 chassis $15 bulkhead $30 all steering components $100 new lipos (they got smashed lol) and probably more that I have not discovered. And it hit the front A arm straight on and it broke the metal pin holding the arm in place but not the arm.... Keep those videos coming!
Great idea. Excellent information. Thanks!
Robert Bosley Thanks for watching
You can find a 2moto kit used for 2000 - 2500. If you plan to be in much powder the Timbersled kit may be the way to go though. Those are 4000-6000 depending on which one you want.
Thanks for doing this I think I'll go with the MIP !
Destructive Testing
Love It
I would go the traxxas steel shaft , less rotating mass and I bit of flexability is always good for bashing
I've broken 2 steel traxxas CVD's on my 1.0 in the last two weeks. I only broke 1 plastic axle in 2 years and that was with 6s. I think the plastic ones take less beating due to their give. I thought about going to summit axles but I'm having a hard time finding a set. Supposedly their stronger that the e-revo ones while being plastic
the traxxas performance shafts are the best in my opinion iv broke 3 of the dog bones on the MIP shafts and haven't busted the traxxas steel ones yet
Do you bash with them or speed runs??
Lol I've broken 4 traxxas steel shafts
firstly thanks for the detailed review, good thinking with the positioning of the tool to mimic the real setup. however, having said this, the fact that you are slowly turning the wrench to see the amount of pressure. this does not happen in the real world. the RC internal components would not take this amount of pressure anyway. I have found the reason the traxxas plastic shafts break is due to the heavy weight on the tyres and a sudden jolt like turn in the opposite direction of the wheel momentum. in other words the joints and plastic do not last to sudden change and as a result they snap. this is also similar to fiber glass where slow controlled flexing would be find but sudden shock can cause them to break like when you drop a fiber glass bike frame.
great video now im 100% getting the mip
Ya he's got some nice stuff, amazing Tig welding skills also
Pretty interesting test. Personally i preffer the traxxas metal shafts since they are so cost effective and in the real world the odds of snapping them are un likely.
I actually found it impressive that you broke the factory ones even. But i know brushless power is becoming more and more crazy. Personally im a nitro guy, and i've never had problems even with the factory axials on my old tmaxx. Now i have a savage 4.6 but it uses the steel shafts like the traxxas aftermarket ones. Now im building a revo .28 and im using the stock shafts cuz im on a budget build and they seem decent quality.
Ultimately it was neat seeing these shafts go through extreme testing.
Yeah the ears just break in the differential hub.
I think it's the initial shock that breaks them. cause your putting alot of torque on them.
Wow 7 lbs that a good bit for a little axle i had a stampede and would egg shape the holes because your full throttle in the air and when you land it would stop and crack them
Hello, mostly not the total torque damages the drive shaft/couplings but more the frequency of torque peaks that wears down the bearings/pins like crazy.
Gr. Chip. this is what i'm designing see /user/forquip
Great job, nice jig! I'm wondering how you could test shock with that jig? maybe some type of clutch you could engage? The slow introduction of force isn't how these things fail which I know you are aware so I think you should get a drill spinning something like a flywheel you can engage somehow? It would be very helpful and more destructive to watch of course! Thanks again, still an informative video!
I like the TV show idea, but I would need more than six people including my mom to watch in order to pay the bills ha ha
Maybe partly, the MIP did put a lot more torque on it which is likely the main cause
E-revo brushless edition. Also as a note the MIP's improve acceleration as they don't flex at all. I also wonder about the TVR ball-X claiming to be the strongest,but they are extremely expensive! As some future advice, the diff case and chassis are also not very strong and plan on replacing those if you crash straight into something. Surprisingly, in the 4 years I have owned my e-revo I have never broke the A-arms.
I believe it's the shock as the car starts moving, not the torque from the motor that snaps the axles. This test would be accurate if these axles were going on a crawler such as the traxxas summit because that's when slow torque would come into play.
did you harden the steel on your jig ?if not then that explains how the MIP was able to damage your jig so easy
I have an E Revo brushless and I say just stick with the stock drive shafts if you want your vehicle raised just a tad more than factory. mip pins always snap on me and there 12$ vs the stock ones cost less and last longer. and the upgraded traxxas drive shafts fall out unless you get the dog bone cup upgrade, than you will just break the pin or shafts of the drive shafts after 2 or 3 days but there good if not raised. I will never buy MIP again barely lasts one day of driving and i even had my slipper clutch more loose than normal and it still breaks. There stuff is over Priced. spent close to 200+ $ hopeing i just had defective parts adjusting different stuff no improvement. it can not handle the torque on and off.
although the test is neat, it is flawed...there is a big difference in your slow torsional load applied to the shaft assemblies, and the high speed torsional load imposed in a drive train. If a slipper clutch is adjusted properly, this will never be a real concern. burning a slipper clutch is a small expense compared to a drive line, Slipper clutches are an expendable "fuse" in a drive line. As you have shown on your original failed shaft, high speed torsional loads will break the shaft in a different area.
If I would have had some I would have tested them also, I should gather up some more axles for round two, if anybody has more axles they want to see tested let us know in the comments here
Sweet... Nice test for those into RC's and it was fun to watch to see which axle
was going to be the toughest.... on this torture test anyhow.... LOL
.
Merrie~Merrie
Yes you are correct, remove a weak link and find another
Hey groutaone I can't believe your into RC also. Haha I have the traxxas e revo brushless edition. I haven't managed to break my traxxas CVDs yet.
Thanks, you can find the MIP's on Ebay
Thanks, haven't done anything with the YZ, might end up being a next winter project, too many distractions around here ha ha
Nice, definitive testing method and good to know. Would you recommend the steel shafts over the summit Adele?
I like the Ball X, little dissapointing they chose to go with dog bones on one end, what axles do you normally use on yours? I really dont mind the plastic axle idea, kind of a parts saver axle but weak ends. I likely will change mine over to plastic Traxxas Summit axles, I have some here now and I really like the way they are made, steel cv's on both ends and a much better design on the shaft ends, check them out if you haven't already
In one of your videos you show your friends hand guns. I think it was the welder friend.
But, never the less. Nice Documentary/video, good explanation.
Your a.good engineer
Interesting test I had a set of mip drive shafts for my slash and i still ended up snapping all four of them. Was pretty disappointed since they are pretty expensive
Mip shafts are the way to go with any rc. They are a little price though.
So in other words the MIP Drive shafts are better than the Traxxas if I got the information correct very well tested
Really good video, thanks so very much!
I know the #2 axle has a smaller diameter shaft when I measure them both, but I don't think they are the same material
true but still a good base line. based on this im gonna go with MIP when its time.
What engine is in the RC.?..I like your experiment.
Great video!
Thanks, do you think they take about the same amount of power to turn?
Great test!
I wonder if the torsional twisting of the second one would help protect other driveline parts in the long run. Kind of like a built in damper.
Thanks, I kinda like the snow kit idea, how much did yours cost?
Good base line test.
So the problem I can see with this testing method is that it really isn't an accurate simulation of the force at work on an axle. The force comes in as quick shocks, like wheels spinning really fast then hitting the ground and coming to a dead stop. I've blown out 2 stub axles now on the flange where they interface with the main shaft.