You could also try soaking a paper towel with penetrating oil, or I actually really like a 50-50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. The longer it soaks on their the better.
great job, and thanks for the video, but you could have tapped the o2 socket adaptor with a hammer whilst the o2 sensor was still in the exahust and it would have come off...
I got stuck and rounded the sensor off with two different o2 sockets. Only thing that worked for me was cutting wires off and hitting it with the impact gun.
The downstream sensor (sensor 2), does not alter the air/fuel ratio...all it does is compare the signal to the upstream sensor ( sensor 1, THAT one controls the air/fuel ratio)...and thereby , by comparing both signals.....shows if the cat converter in between is working properly.
Interesting......the connector for my sensor #2 is INSIDE my car ( Scion xA, a Toyota product), whereas this Chrysler product has the connector under the car exposed to road grime and debris. Yes, the flat blade screwdriver trick is welcomed to see....but maybe you should stress it needs to stay there....wedged-in....in order to separate the connectors. For some folks seeing the vid right before you do this, they might think wedging something in....and then removing it...is all that is needed. No....once the wedge is removed, the 2 sides are still locked together. As for tapping the unit after you use some penetrating oil....you can also attach a wrench and tap the end of the wrench which imparts some torque on the threaded connection.
You can only wedge the connector while pushing with your other hand, and releasing it. It can't just stay in their. If so it would probably fall out and/or I wouldn't feel it budging as a result. While you are wedging it and pushing it with your fingers you will feel it separate from the connector. And yes I agree you can tap the unit by attaching a wrench as well. That's a nice detail!
@@FixCarYourself....my point is that you can't wedge something in there....think it is " now disconnected", remove the wedge ...and THEN pull apart after the wedge was removed . The wedging action keeps the parts-locking pieces apart. The wedging action needs to stay on-place while pulling apart....either by thumb action while pulling...or wedging something in while pulling....been my sense of how this goes.
The crowfoot adapter is useless, I tried it and all the torque is centered sort of offset. All the power needs to be top centre, I also have a tall sensor socket and that doesn't work . So far I have been unable to remove the sensor. I will keep trying.
I agree, the purpose is to help with emissions. They care about that right...Nope! thats why they are in a mess trying to transition to electric which has none of this stuff.
@@FixCarYourself...mounting closer to the exhaust header makes it warm up faster from a cold start....thereby reducing emissions. Electric vehicles have their own environmental impacts that are not as obvious on first look.
I used a pipe wrench and it worked great very easy
Awesome, that's usually preferred! Its all about the angle and leverage!
Try dousing the threads with brake fluid. Let sink in for 5 - 10 mins. Works like a charm.
You could also try soaking a paper towel with penetrating oil, or I actually really like a 50-50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. The longer it soaks on their the better.
great job, and thanks for the video, but you could have tapped the o2 socket adaptor with a hammer whilst the o2 sensor was still in the exahust and it would have come off...
I've tried before and it didn't. But every situation is different so definelty is a good idea to try before hand.
I got stuck and rounded the sensor off with two different o2 sockets. Only thing that worked for me was cutting wires off and hitting it with the impact gun.
Definitely the easier method and faster IMO.
The downstream sensor (sensor 2), does not alter the air/fuel ratio...all it does is compare the signal to the upstream sensor ( sensor 1, THAT one controls the air/fuel ratio)...and thereby , by comparing both signals.....shows if the cat converter in between is working properly.
Your right. Quick and to the point and very well explained!
@@FixCarYourself .... 👍
Interesting......the connector for my sensor #2 is INSIDE my car ( Scion xA, a Toyota product), whereas this Chrysler product has the connector under the car exposed to road grime and debris. Yes, the flat blade screwdriver trick is welcomed to see....but maybe you should stress it needs to stay there....wedged-in....in order to separate the connectors. For some folks seeing the vid right before you do this, they might think wedging something in....and then removing it...is all that is needed. No....once the wedge is removed, the 2 sides are still locked together. As for tapping the unit after you use some penetrating oil....you can also attach a wrench and tap the end of the wrench which imparts some torque on the threaded connection.
You can only wedge the connector while pushing with your other hand, and releasing it. It can't just stay in their. If so it would probably fall out and/or I wouldn't feel it budging as a result. While you are wedging it and pushing it with your fingers you will feel it separate from the connector.
And yes I agree you can tap the unit by attaching a wrench as well. That's a nice detail!
@@FixCarYourself....my point is that you can't wedge something in there....think it is " now disconnected", remove the wedge ...and THEN pull apart after the wedge was removed . The wedging action keeps the parts-locking pieces apart. The wedging action needs to stay on-place while pulling apart....either by thumb action while pulling...or wedging something in while pulling....been my sense of how this goes.
Is it ok to run the car to heat up the exhaust while the sensor is unplugged?
Shouldn't be a problem. Except more codes will pop up. But you'll have to clear them with an obd2 code reader later anyway.
The crowfoot adapter is useless, I tried it and all the torque is centered sort of offset. All the power needs to be top centre, I also have a tall sensor socket and that doesn't work . So far I have been unable to remove the sensor. I will keep trying.
You could cut the wires and then use a deep socket to remove it. Also a really long breaker bar helps as well!
@@FixCarYourself I’m gonna go the breaker bar route a friend has an hammer tool going to give that a try.
Also put a steel pipe over the breaker bar for more leverage and push down hard.@@reddog907
If using a crowfoot style Oxygen sensor socket, you must fasten/secure a hose clamp around the base of it because the socket flexes/“stretches”.
You shouldn't have to do that. However, it does keep it tighter in place, and doesn't hurt to do that.
If your cat's are buried in the engine bay, good luck. I wish all manufacturers would just put the cats in an accessible location.
I agree, the purpose is to help with emissions. They care about that right...Nope! thats why they are in a mess trying to transition to electric which has none of this stuff.
@@FixCarYourself...mounting closer to the exhaust header makes it warm up faster from a cold start....thereby reducing emissions. Electric vehicles have their own environmental impacts that are not as obvious on first look.