Camino Primitivo III, La Espina to Berducedo

May 12, 2024, La Espina to Borres
Last night, using the Rome2Rio app, I found a bus went from La Espina to Tineo, cutting 7 miles off today's 17-mile walk. I suggested Ken take a bus from La Espina to Tineo then see how he felt.
Patsy and I left at 8:00. It was really foggy when we set off. The grass was dripping wet with dew.
We arrived in Tineo within 10 minutes of Ken and met at a bar/cafe for café con leches. Ken was feeling a lot better and said he felt up to walking the next 10 miles with us.
There was quite a lot of elevation gain but today Ken had no problem keeping up.
We arrived at a cafe at 14:30 and ordered one each of the Sunday special menu, the pilgrim menu, and the vegetarian menu. The bill was €47 for a huge amount of good food.
I felt stuffed and was ever so glad that the Albergue I'd reserved was only 2 km further.
In contrast to the dump we'd spent last night in, this Albergue, La Montera, was really nice. Patsy had a super surprise waiting for her. The ZipLoc bag containing her contect lenses was waiting for her. Pablo, the host at Villa Palatin where we'd stayed 3 nights ago, had arranged for it to be sent ahead (and gratis! ... the camino provides and the dudette abides) by the Camino luggage forwarding service.
The 10-bed dorm was full and everyone else was already there by the time we arrived but Patsy and I had been allocated the best beds, those next to the window.
17 miles
May 13, 2024, Borres to Berducedo
Today's stage ("Hospitales") is reputed to be the hardest of the entire Camino Primitivo, as well as the highlight of the entire route.
There are no services between Borres and Berducedo, 16 miles apart, and the route traverses wind-swept mountain fell.
Despite the relatively low elevation, peaking at only about 4,000', it was windy and cold. As we approached Berducedo the rain started with a vengeance. It was really miserable walking the last mile in the pouring rain but we arrived at Albergue Camino Primitivo Hostel around 15:00.
We checked in, €15 each, then tried to get something to eat but the waitress didn't speak any English and was rather curt. By the time we'd decided what we wanted to order we were told it was no longer available. This cycle continued until finally Ken got a plain omelette and salad while Patsy and I split a dish comprising beef, potatoes, and salad.
The dormitory contains two dozen beds and our three beds are closest to the door so we expected to be disturbed all night long by a constant procession to the bathroom. It's a good thing we all have ear plugs. I pulled my "Windstopper" fleece hat over my head to supplement the ear plugs.
16 miles

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Lovely territory! Nice to see you two enjoying yourselves. Thanks for sharing.❤