This is tremendous, I had ufh fitted by a large notts firm that will remain nameless, absolute s*** show. Glad to see someone who cares, still trying to programme mine, no comms cable fitted so now got errors all over the place, and after doing much research, I had my pants pulled down. Watched a load of your videos and highly recommend your work!
Just to add, asked for wireless and they fitted a nest with 230 jg, I was green so didn't know any better until they were long gone, and I knew better😂😭
The control centre is really important for ufh. You must have individual room / zone thermostats for it to work properly and its also slow so you must be patient and avoid the temptation to constantly turn the heating on/off. I live in Nordics and we have ours running 24x7x365 even in summer (yes it gets hot!) . With proper zone control and an outdoor temperature compensation controller you will get very consistent heating. Besides Heatmiser you should look at Danfoss Icon and Uponor controllers if you can find them in UK
The Danfoss Icon system solves that issue.....it can be configured to exercise all valves regularly and turn on the pump so that you get flow. Doesn't seem to be a feature on Heatmiser (yet)...but you could probably do it using the API or IFTTT.
Are the actuators a form of "wax motor"? Big Clive has done some videos about them. It is worth getting a gas soldering iron kit that can blow hot air. Works great on heat shrink.
Hmm. I've seen similar looking valves that are pushed to close... they use passive thermostats or manual knobs and there are electric actuators for them as well.
So glad I did not listen to my builder. I avoided underfloor heating. Slow response, greater potential for expensive leaks, seems to have many dissatisfied customers.
Do you have a thermal camera? You can easily see the flow under the floor with one. Also works great for seeing overloaded or loose connections on breakers.
Interesting vid', (lost me...lol) Has anyone else noticed a "crackle" on your right audio? I have noticed it on a few vidios now, and wondered if you have been told?
Nice work ! Out of interest have you looked at or installed the Danfoss Icon system ? Heatmiser looks good and they have an Open API and IFTTT which is nice if you're tech savvy, the Danfoss system has some additional features like an Infra Red floor sensor which is useful for wet rooms , weather compensation and maintenance features (open/close all valves weekly)....the Heatmiser "open" platform with Danfoss features would be my preferred option. Thanks for sharing and great to see you back on the plumbing :P ;-)
The old system seems to be at least partially german. There is the german word "Vorlauf" on the pipe. Means pretty much that this is the pipe that feeds the tubes with hot water
At 17:05 when taking about little loose ends at the terminals. I was on a job commission a wiring centre where another guy in my company had wired it. I turned it on and a few strands were touching L and N and blew up in my face and burnt my eyebrows off.
It looks like the original installation was a right cock-up. What were the heat exchangers like? Were they wired up correctly? I dread to think how well the refrigerant circuits are set up!
Gas will be on its way out over the next 10-15 years. Heat pumps, communal heating and maybe hydrogen will be the new normal. No new gas boilers after 2025.
@@Cjrelectrical Interesting they looked like the heat miser Neostats ? I have only seen them with the Heatmiser Neo Hubs that connect to the LAN and act as a gateway for the app. Is this one not app connected or is there another way it gets internet as I didn't see any lan cables (Might have to watch the video again). @Da Skippy I think the neostats quote 100m so you would be correct on the Zigbee. (Pretty sure the relay box is the Zigbee master with that tiny antenna. ) EDIT: I should probably re-phrase my question and ask @CJR is the Hub optional and only if you want the app control then.
l notice Bunch of cables tape gether with strip earth tape. I learnt that this is bad work practice on a electric tutorial youtude video. Because of the increase of thermal heat when the cables load voltage and current. Pvc insulation with a maximum working temperature of 70° C. 😳
So funny to see this. I other more developed countries such Heating Controls are completly obsolet. You have to remember: Underfloor Heating is self-regulating. If a Room has heated up enough, it just won't take more heat from the floor. No electronics needed for this at all! Saves you big $$$ but just having nothing. All you need to install is a heating source (gas or heat-pump) regulating the forward flow temperature in relationship to the outside temperature. All in All, what we see here is a waste of money, ressources and effiency of the heating system. The amount of waterflow per Minute per Circuit per Room is calculated and set by the installer. Everytime I see Videos like this, my heart cries for the 1-3 Watt Energy totaly wastet PER Thermo-controlled thermostats but people not able to RTFM!
![[Part 1] ทารกน้อยถูกทิ้ง👶 หญิงชราเก็บขวดขายเลี้ยงดูเขาจนโต #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nPTDvFCExks/mqdefault.jpg)
No music, no effects, just clear explanation 👍👍👍
Thanks
I was scratching my head all through the video wondering what that black thing was… a pump who knew. Glad it’s labelled now
And I thought it was some mysterious modern up-to-date state of the art electronic black box !😲
great job as always. when doing underfloor heating having a thermal imaging cam is really hands as it shows up the pipes in the floor getting warm.
Tomorrow, sponsored by the nice guys at ...
@@bencampbell2041 :D
bit expensive ....but yeah, totally agree
I think the customer was lucky to get yous to do that job Chris /James 👍
I’m glad you labelled the pump 😂
Very interesting Chris, thanks for demystifying wet underfloor heating, actually very simple👍
Brilliant work and thanks for sharing this with us take care
Hi Chris/James,
A very explicit video on the heating system. Nicely labelled up for future reference!
👍⚡️
Good to see James getting some jobs to do looking like he is doing really well.
An interesting video, but what a cowboy way of tightening up the heatshrink sleeve!
🤠
Like the heat shrink labelling. Will have to get some of that.
This is tremendous, I had ufh fitted by a large notts firm that will remain nameless, absolute s*** show. Glad to see someone who cares, still trying to programme mine, no comms cable fitted so now got errors all over the place, and after doing much research, I had my pants pulled down. Watched a load of your videos and highly recommend your work!
Just to add, asked for wireless and they fitted a nest with 230 jg, I was green so didn't know any better until they were long gone, and I knew better😂😭
The control centre is really important for ufh. You must have individual room / zone thermostats for it to work properly and its also slow so you must be patient and avoid the temptation to constantly turn the heating on/off. I live in Nordics and we have ours running 24x7x365 even in summer (yes it gets hot!) . With proper zone control and an outdoor temperature compensation controller you will get very consistent heating. Besides Heatmiser you should look at Danfoss Icon and Uponor controllers if you can find them in UK
Great video dude, clearly different guys who installed the heating system and the poop stack.
Great vlog as always, love how you labelled it all up so it makes the next guys life so much easier 👍 top job
Annual job unsticking those pins! Sat all summer long stuck in and seizing up.
The Danfoss Icon system solves that issue.....it can be configured to exercise all valves regularly and turn on the pump so that you get flow. Doesn't seem to be a feature on Heatmiser (yet)...but you could probably do it using the API or IFTTT.
Are the actuators a form of "wax motor"? Big Clive has done some videos about them. It is worth getting a gas soldering iron kit that can blow hot air. Works great on heat shrink.
Or just a paint-stripping heat gun...AKA Hell's Hairdryer...
Hmm. I've seen similar looking valves that are pushed to close... they use passive thermostats or manual knobs and there are electric actuators for them as well.
Makes you wonder if the old system didn't work simply because the valves were labelled up incorrectly.
So glad I did not listen to my builder. I avoided underfloor heating. Slow response, greater potential for expensive leaks, seems to have many dissatisfied customers.
Do you have a thermal camera? You can easily see the flow under the floor with one. Also works great for seeing overloaded or loose connections on breakers.
Interesting one Chris / James. 👍
I wired up a similar system last December, flashing it out was an absolute pain xD
Interesting vid', (lost me...lol)
Has anyone else noticed a "crackle" on your right audio?
I have noticed it on a few vidios now, and wondered if you have been told?
TOP TIP-
use the part above the tip of the soldering iron to shrink heat shrink
Nice work ! Out of interest have you looked at or installed the Danfoss Icon system ? Heatmiser looks good and they have an Open API and IFTTT which is nice if you're tech savvy, the Danfoss system has some additional features like an Infra Red floor sensor which is useful for wet rooms , weather compensation and maintenance features (open/close all valves weekly)....the Heatmiser "open" platform with Danfoss features would be my preferred option. Thanks for sharing and great to see you back on the plumbing :P ;-)
The old system seems to be at least partially german. There is the german word "Vorlauf" on the pipe. Means pretty much that this is the pipe that feeds the tubes with hot water
What came first the underfloor heating manifold or that soil pipe?
What rating is the fused switch supply going into the heatmiser uh8 ,13A ?
8:32 I always used to find the plungers jammed after long periods of being open or closed. They’re a nuisance - the amount of movement is so small.
At 17:05 when taking about little loose ends at the terminals. I was on a job commission a wiring centre where another guy in my company had wired it. I turned it on and a few strands were touching L and N and blew up in my face and burnt my eyebrows off.
Did you diagnose with what was wrong with the other system? And what's stopping your replacements from packing up in a few months time?
Yeah the thermostats and control box were so unreliable. I’ve been fitting heat miser for years with no problems.
Do you need to link boiler with the control box?
love that soldering iron where can i purchase from? great contents by the way 👍🏾
Nice to see you back on with your plumbing Chris, get that system cleaned up for them when you're done 👍
Interesting.
I remember the days when Chris was a plumber 🤣
Ahhh Andy K from the electricians forum.
@@Cjrelectrical Which forum? Don’t think so. EDIT. googled it. Nope not on the orange/blue forum.
Definitely you !!
It looks like the original installation was a right cock-up. What were the heat exchangers like? Were they wired up correctly? I dread to think how well the refrigerant circuits are set up!
Nice one
⚽⚽ Up 1st install
Looks like the ufh was clearly routed wrong from day one!
Good video ref air source unless it's a well insulated house it's pointless although ground source has more poke 😂 ( gas is still king )
It’s ground
Gas will be on its way out over the next 10-15 years. Heat pumps, communal heating and maybe hydrogen will be the new normal. No new gas boilers after 2025.
@@bencampbell2041 what about electric boilers? All these things that need to happen they bestget on with getting it right 😂
What's the wireless range on these things inside?
They mesh use a 868mhz mesh then all connect back to a hub plugged into your router for internet access to the app.
@@warrmr So it's probably zigbee, which could range from 10-100 meters.
Doesn’t require a hub
@@Cjrelectrical Interesting they looked like the heat miser Neostats ? I have only seen them with the Heatmiser Neo Hubs that connect to the LAN and act as a gateway for the app. Is this one not app connected or is there another way it gets internet as I didn't see any lan cables (Might have to watch the video again).
@Da Skippy I think the neostats quote 100m so you would be correct on the Zigbee. (Pretty sure the relay box is the Zigbee master with that tiny antenna. )
EDIT: I should probably re-phrase my question and ask @CJR is the Hub optional and only if you want the app control then.
The neo stat requires a 230v supply.
👍👍👍Chris and James
Is there any link to fire the boiler?
Ahh air source nuff said
Ground source so runs continuously until the relevant pump pulls the heat
Seems odd to have a server rack right next to all those hot water pipes.
that is a pigs ear of a plumbing manifold
It makes you think the installer didn't follow the drawings.
Seems pretty redundant to replace something that wasn't setup right to start with.
you are getting alot of sound popping on your sound tracks lately
Crap GoPro 9
GoPro, fix your GoCrap
First lol
Also #notificationsquad lol
l notice Bunch of cables tape gether with strip earth tape. I learnt that this is bad work practice on a electric tutorial youtude video. Because of the increase of thermal heat when the cables load voltage and current. Pvc insulation with a maximum working temperature of
70° C. 😳
I think what you were seeing was in fact the Data cables..
Yep those look like data cables tbh
So funny to see this. I other more developed countries such Heating Controls are completly obsolet. You have to remember: Underfloor Heating is self-regulating. If a Room has heated up enough, it just won't take more heat from the floor. No electronics needed for this at all! Saves you big $$$ but just having nothing. All you need to install is a heating source (gas or heat-pump) regulating the forward flow temperature in relationship to the outside temperature. All in All, what we see here is a waste of money, ressources and effiency of the heating system. The amount of waterflow per Minute per Circuit per Room is calculated and set by the installer. Everytime I see Videos like this, my heart cries for the 1-3 Watt Energy totaly wastet PER Thermo-controlled thermostats but people not able to RTFM!
I thought you had to fit a thermostat to comply with building regs
@@matthewsaunt2965 you do this via the outside temperature controlled water inlet temperature from the Heating source
@@kgfgfg1 is that not like saying a combi boiler has a thermostat to control the temperature of the water within the radiators . Pardon my ignorance