Glad you enjoyed it. I've used this technique extensive across the modular layout and it was something a lot of people have asked about so it's great to hear so many people are finding this video useful. Thanks for watching 😃
Perfect timing! .. I'm just about to order 4x sections of plywood to begin a 4-board L shaped layout .. this tutorial has covered one of my main concerns .. my genuine thanks to you :)
Im building an N Guage layout and like others I tried copper plates, however made a major hash of it. After watching this video I popped out to get some brass screws and tested your method on a scrap bit of track and a screw clamped into a helping hand. Worked perfect so tomorrow with sort the track joints between my two boards, thank you
Awesome, really glad to hear it worked for you! The other advantage of doing it this way is that the screw is anchored into the baseboard which creates a much stronger hold. Best of luck for tomorrow and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Im only an early learner so wont be doing how to videos when I start uploading new videos of new layout, like others that have helped me your defo be getting a link and mention, thanks once again
Marvellous!A very clear and easy to follow explanation. You mentioned about using a small regular hammer here(rather than a track pin hammer). Do you have or is it a possiblity to do a video about using diy tools and equipment (eg car body filler etc) on a model railway? I'm personally a firm believer in being as economical as possible in railway modelling as it is all too easy for costs to skyrocket when using specific railway items. I understand fully that you specialise in quality,fine detail models!
Really glad you enjoyed it! I don't have anything specific on using diy tools but pretty much all my layouts are built on that principle using a bog standard tool kit, a drill and a soldering iron. Oh and a modelling knife I got for £3! The most fancy thing I use is a dremel which just makes cutting track a lot easier - but definitely not essential. There are some who like to use all manner of fancy tools but I find it all a bit of a distraction to be honest. I'd rather use what I have right here and now instead of having to set up something to do a very specific job, especially when I have very limited space as it is. Thanks for watching 😃
Fantastic tutorial! I had so many problems with joints on my old layout I gave up and made a permanent joint to my lift up section! This is pure gold! Thanks ever so much.
Really glad to hear you've found it so useful! I thought this might be a bit of a niche video but I'm surprised with how many people have been wondering about how to do this. Thanks for watching 😃
A very helpful video, didn't think of using brass screws so I will definitely give that a try and a great way of ballesting the ends if the boards as well 😀
My pleasure Adam, yeah the brass screws do a really good job of holding the track in place. They make the rails quite strong too so they can take quite a knock - not that I'd recommend testing that for yourself! Thanks for watching 😃
I have been thinking of doing a modular layout and this just gave me the information I needed to do it. Thank you so much. And I will do the first ballasting technique you used I like that one. GOD BLESS from America 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂
Awesome! I've seen a lot of people saying they want to try building a modular layout recently so I figured this video would definitely be interesting/useful for those giving it a go. Thanks for watching 😃
[thats, interesting. i, bought some good used ho-scale track that had some of the ties sleepers removed from some of the track that i bought. i, asume that someone had done this samething that youre doing in this great video]👍
Possibly but sometimes people remove the sleepers from the end of track so that adding fishplates is easier. They then use cosmetic sleepers under the plain rail to fill in the gap. One easy way to check is if the rail has any remnants of solder or glue on them that suggests they have been used in this way. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
I love it! Watching your video even has me thinking of possible ideas too like connecting the power to the connecting bolts (and nut or metal grommet from the other side) so that you have one less thing to worry about when putting together.
Awesome, yeah you could definitely route the power through the bolts or the dowels. I just decided not to since I figured it would make it harder to get to the wiring in the future if there was ever an issue. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy - Indeed, a solid foundation where it matters. And the built-in height adjustment in each screw is perfect too. I am thinking of wiring the screws to copper strips on the sides of the baseboards. The strips touch those on the opposite side. Though less reliable than a plug and connector, it can be used for e.g, hinged boards that are used often. Thanks for inspiring and informing me. Greetings from the Netherlands
I’m about to make my first ever layout. My first ever model railway. And it needs to be modular! And done in a short time. Yup. Christmas. However, all the fancy stuff (okay painting track and train stock weathering) I have decided I can do after Christmas! I wanted a layout, that could be modular, (your videos are awesome!) with some lighting, and two ovals (I’m using the Hornby trakmat extensions with the pack oval so no tricky track planning until I expand - which I will as it is super addictive. I was warned!) My main concern after electrics (I can wire a house but the language for model railway electrics had me somewhat confused 😆) Then my next worry was ‘how do you protect the rails on the edge of the board’ I didn’t really want to leave them as is if I moved it (high breakage/damage chance 😐) BUT I wasn’t convinced any form of cutting of track was allowed. In short I thought cut the track the world will end and all the research will be for nought. Then I found this video and now I know it’s allowed, the train will still run (I’m doing the same as you with the bus line - bus line had me baffled for a while I even asked Alexa @ one point!) and I won’t have made a mess of it! I had no clue how. As said I am brand new (as in the plan started end of Oct) though I’ve wanted one for years now. Electrics was a massive concern as I want to give my layout the best possible chance to have a good solid basework. Plus I don’t want to blow myself up. Thanks so much for having made this video and all the other videos you share! 🌟🙌🏻👍🏻🌟✌🏻 Angel.
Glad you found the video helpful. There aren’t really any rules when it comes to model railways so do things whatever way you prefer. If you’re worried about the electrics I did do a beginners guide to wiring in my Model Railway Basics series which you might find useful. Thanks for watching 😃
Nice video mate. I have to say that actually looks easy! this will come in handy for the future as I have a small exhibition layout in mind so this will be very helpful. - Nicholas.
Thanks Nicholas! Like most things with model railways, a lot of it is actually fairly easy if you break it down into simple steps. Thanks for watching 😃
7:31 I do not know too much about railway modelling, but I would try two things to improve the cutting: 1. Cut first, push the rails closer to reduce the gap then fix them to the board. If you worry about the alignment after the cutting, you can do it with each rail one by one. So while working on the left/right rail, the other keeps the track in place. 2. Cut in 45 degree to reduce the effect on the wheels. This may break some compatibility rules with other people's boards, but most cases that is not an issue. I think the above technics would reduce the sound of wheels running over the gap, but let me know if I am wrong.
Having done it both ways I can definitely say it's much easier to secure the track first and then cut the rail. In an ideal world you would use a gooseneck attachment on the rotary tool to get a clean 90 degree cut so that you're removing as little material as possible. Thanks for watching 👍
Like your method, those brass flatheads are truly solid screws which will form a great base to hold the rails. Maybe even better than with a pcb tie. A few remarks on your soldering. The amount of blob won’t do much for the soldered connection. The best soldered connection consists of an as small as possible gap between the two parts which need to be connected. This gap needs to be of capillary character to achieve such strength. In fact, when you produce a blob on the screws you could better file it down, before you start soldering the rails on. In one of the solder joints you showed in this vid, when you pull up the soldering iron; a slight shrinkage in the solder is visible. That to me is a sign your capillary gap was too big. Other ways to determine from the outside of soldering joint if it’s good is the way it glances. Any dullness or crumpling is an indication of a ‘glued’ connection, instead of a soldered one. Want to improve your soldering? Just take some scraps of copper and join ‘m. Also check those joints. Take an old screwdriver and especially try to mechanically disassemble the joints. You will notice those dull and crumbled joints will come apart rather easily. For the rest, great 👍 vid. Very much like your input on the alignment.
Thanks Vincent, the brass screws do work well as I'm not only screwing into the plywood top but also the frame below as well so they are really solid. I'll be the first to admit my soldering is completely rubbish though 😂 It's the one thing that, no matter how much practice I do, I never seem to get any better at. That said, if someone as bad at soldering as me can achieve this then anyone should be able to give the tutorial a go if they want to. I'm definitely saving your comment for future reference though to pull out next time I having trouble with it. Thanks for the info and thanks for watching 👍
Nice video mate, I am on N-Gauge and I use this technique on my modular layout. Like the tip about the masking tape, not thought about that one. A couple of tips if you want a even closer join with the rails is 1/ place card between the two base boards before laying the track, 2/ use a larger thin cutting disc so you cut the track vertical with the Dremel. When you split the boards remove the card and when you place them back together the joint is even smaller.
Thanks, always good to hear of others building their own modular layouts. Great tips too! I don't usually build multiple modules at the same time (the two station boards in this video were the one exception) but if I do ever end up in this situation again I'll definitely keep those in mind. Thanks for watching 😃
10:21 why not use the screws to transfer power to the underside of the board? Just use long enough screws to fully penetrate the board, then solder wires to them.
Because you're screwing into the frame of the board not just the top surface. The point is to anchor the screw (and by proxy the rail) deep into the frame to hold it all as secure as possible. If anything goes wrong with your electrics and they're embedded into the baseboard frame, it's going to be a huge job to make what would otherwise be a fairly simple repair.
Hey mate only just discovered your channel absolutely amazing videos I’ve learnt loads, I am in the process of creating some modular boards which are going to be different junctions and struggled with how to connect the track from one board to another without the awkward fish plates Quick question on the wiring where did you get the connectors from? I’m guessing you solder them to the track metal from underneath then just connect them at the bottom of the board?
Hi there, really glad you've been enjoying and learning from the videos and best of luck with your own modular layout. There's a link to the connectors in the description along with everything else used in the video. Generally I have a set of bus wires that run round the whole layout hooked up using these connectors. I then have feeders that branch off the main bus wires that are soldered to the underside of the rail. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Awesome man, I purchased some XT60H Connector and did a quick test it created a connection even with a break in the track, now its tested I will be creating a track plan, setting the track and then adding the landscape, the only thing is my car is raised about 5-6 inches off the board as I will be having bridges etc so will need the scenery high so I can have rivers flowing under neath, at the moment im using polystyrene to raise the track, would you suggest that, or use wood? which would be much more fiddley? @@ThatModelRailwayGuy
This came at a good time for me. Been considering building a new layout that can be packed away. Thank you very much for clearing this up. As for your layout is really is coming on well. What are the platforms made from?
Awesome, glad it was helpful Lewis! I did a whole video on making the platforms previously which you can check out here: th-cam.com/video/D3j7Mvn6yt4/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching 😃
Great video. I would like use this method but I'm using Woodland Scenics risers and foam rail track. I will need to experiment with glueing the screws in I guess but if I'm relying on glue anyway is it worth adding the screws at all?
In that instance you could use copper clad sleepers instead of screws which can be glued more easily to a flat surface. You definitely need something to support the rails and hold them fast at the end of each section though, otherwise they'll be incredibly delicate and likely to cause derailments over the join. Personally, I would strongly recommend having a section of raised wood on either side of the join matching the height of your riser and screwing into that. This will not only create a much smoother join but it will also protect the foam risers from getting damaged too. You would't need much, perhaps a couple of centimetres on each side of the join. That's how I would do it if it were me. Thanks for watching 😃
Another great video, I was hoping to see a lift up section. I'm trying to do one myself and I'm finding it difficult to get dowels and locating for the dowels. Do you have any videos on this or any advice please?
Hi David, personally I get the alignment dowels for my layout from Station Road Baseboards - well worth a look. Episode 3 of my modular series shows more about how I install these to the baseboards (th-cam.com/video/in1GJX94DEY/w-d-xo.html) while Episode 6 shows a quick look at my folding fiddle yard (th-cam.com/video/4DRru5pxEfQ/w-d-xo.html) which might give you some ideas for your hinged section. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Hi there, yes in theory that would be possible. It would make the installation of the alignment dowels a bit more complicated and of course if anything goes wrong or gets disconnected it's more tedious to get in there for repairs once the dowel are fixed in place. For me it didn't make sense as I have more than just the track power crossing the joints - lighting, point control and feedback detection also cross over too so I tend to use multipin connectors now. Thanks for watching 😃
The point of the brass screw is that it's embedded into the frame of the baseboard to hold the rail really securely. Yes, there's nothing to stop you from soldering the wires to the screws but if anything ever goes wrong taking apart the baseboard to get to them is going to be a massive job. Much easier to solder directly to the rail and probably more reliable too since there are less points of failure. Thanks for watching 😃
Of course in an ideal situation I wouldn't have to dismantle the layout at all but not all of us have the space for a permanent setup. Thanks for watching 👍
Hi Leslie, there's a link in the description to the PVA glue I use but that said I don't think it matters much. I've used all different types and brands in the past myself. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Great video and well presented. What fittings did you use to locate the boards together. They looked rather like dowels and holes but of a metal substrate. Cheers, Rick the Bulldog.
Thanks Rick! Yes I used metal alignment dowels - there's more info in this video where I go through the whole process of aligning the baseboards with each other: th-cam.com/video/in1GJX94DEY/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Hi John, the track itself acts as the bus here. In that 2nd option you're simply taking the power that's already applied to the track on one section and daisy chaining it to the next. The obvious disadvantage with this system though is that if you loose power to the track on one board (ie dodgy fishplates or points) it will affect all the other boards later in the chain. Hope that makes sense and thanks for watching 😃
Hello! I'm actually looking for the video you're referring to in this video. "In previous videos, I've gone over how actually to align the baseboards," but I can't tell where to find that video or what it's called. There's no link or card or whatever with where to find it. Can anybody help me out? I might not be able to use the method, as I haven't actually used wood on my layout, it's all foam with just a thin layer of hardboard at the bottom. I just want to find some different methods.
Hiya, I’ve actually shown it in several videos but check out Building A Modular Mode Railway: Episode 3 as that’s where I went into the most depth about it: th-cam.com/video/in1GJX94DEY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vfj3gPob24XOfkKe Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Apologies if I have asked this before (I think my mind is slipping!): Do you have a video of how you manage using both DC and DCC locos on your layout or, if not, might you make such a video? Many thanks.
Hi Paul, essentially the mainline is all wired from the main power bus. The sidings and station loop are powered from a second bus which can be disconnected for DC running and the power is transferred by switching the points from the mainline. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching 😃
Thank you for this. I’m making my first permanent layout (with a heck of a lot of help from your videos) and this will help me line parts up as I ballast and decorate them separately - I guess it’s just my style to avoid ruining the entire layout at once.
Amazing! So glad you've been finding the videos helpful and it's great to hear this video has extra uses even for permanent layouts. Thanks for watching 😃
Drive your track pins into the baseboard how you like!!!!! I hate hitting my fingers messing about with track pins, and have the pin push device, but have switched to very fine screws. Off eBay listed as track screws, pre drill with a 1.5 mm, and then screw down with a tiny cross head screwdriver. The advantage is the track pressure onto the cork can be adjusted, and alterations are easy, just unscrew.
Haha, I like this attitude John! That's great to hear about using screws too. I know Budget Model Railways have used those in the past and they seem to do alright. As you say, I imagine making alterations are incredibly easy! Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Part of my switch from pins to screws is a change from a 6x4 frame covered with Sundela board, for my son's Hornby loop, to in retirement doing a modular/permanent model, with a plywood/cork base. Pins don't work!! , I've also invested in ModelTech's track joining system. Enjoying the videos, cheers J.
Thank you for the video. This has arrived at the perfect time. I am going to try your technique for my lift up section. Pleased it worked well and once again, thank you.
In my (in)experience (so if wrong it's all my fault!) it helps to tin the rail and screws with 'acid' flux. That suggestion usually brings down a fusillade predicting corrosion. Seems not to happen if the join is cleaned after with metho and water. If the idea still offends, tin the components away from the layout and wash properly, or use something like the American 'LaCo' flux which quoting from the bottle is ' lead free, non acid and non toxic'; and again from the bottle '1. apply flux, 2. solder, 3. wipe with wet cloth'. CHECK THE SPEC SHEET for safety, and don't breathe - tin outside in the open air. The idea is to tin with 'wet' solder, leaving a very thin layer which will easily bond with other tinned surfaces. In general once the parts to be joined are pre-tinned they do not need tinning again to join. Something like you are doing is thus easier and protected from 'cold' joins. Don't forget to use a damp cloth to clean the iron, and re-tin occasionally. Sometimes 'tip refresher' helps - try your local electronics shop. The safety point is interesting. It really does help to read the spec sheets of the products we use. Having said that, we use a lot of polymers, especially in scenery. An awful lot of them don't set completely enough to lose their smell. It does make one wonder about on-going toxicity and ALLERGIES. Thanks for your efforts.
You can if you want to but I've found just soldering the rail to the screw works perfectly fine and I haven't had any issues across the entire layout. Thanks for watching 👍
Just come across your video and am interested in using this method on my latest layout but have not had much success cutting track using my Dremel (the blades I have just seem to bounce & then shatter!😢) so you seem to have a solid thin metal cutting disc...can I ask where you get them from?.....great video by the way 👍🏻👏🏻
It does take a bit of practice I find and if you're not confident with it then the disc does tend to bounce off. I'm a lot better at it now so that when I cut rails it's like butter but it took a while to get to that stage. I mostly use a set of diamond slitting discs I got on Amazon a while back. Don't worry they're not as expensive as they sound but they have been very useful. Thanks for watching 😃
Thank you for your speedy reply to my Dremel Q. I did some googling before posting to you and came across similar diamond cutting discs on Amazon but was wary of them due to large differences in revues between 2 suppliers of what looked like the same product (one had no lower than 3 star & said were great for cutting metal without breaking, other had many 1 star saying were easily broke & were rubbish !? 🤔....could you possibly provide a link to ones you settled on please?
Thanks for another great video, I was wondering how you managed to keep everything on the straight and narrow across the joints in the modules... now I know 👍
Thanks Nigel, yeah it definitely allows me to get locos running straight away as soon as the layout is setup without having to do any micro adjustments. Thanks for watching 😃
How to align track: First hire a group of Southern men. Second: Make sure one of them has a good singing voice. Third: Get the group to sing a song about how one time their girlfriend left and what they had to do get her back. All while nudging the track a bit at a time. Fourth: oh wait you're talking about model railroad track... that's probably a cool process too
Haha! I'm sure I could try this out but I think hiring a group of singing Southern men would be more expensive than my current technique 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
Hi Paul, as I explained in the video I have power bus running around the whole layout that's connected to the mainline. I just swap out the DCC controller for the DC one if I ever need to run analog trains. Thanks for watching 😃
Hi John, no not at all. I use a Dremel because it's what I find easiest to work with but if you prefer working with track cutters that's fine too. The essential bit is you get a nice clean cut. Thanks for watching 😃
I really should pin a comment about this. So yes in theory it's possible but I wouldn't recommend it - the point of the screws is that they're buried deep into the frame of the baseboard to create a really strong anchor for the rails. If you start hacking away at that to attach wires you're getting rid of that benefit and it'll potentially be a lot more complicated to fix if there's ever an electrical problem. You could always solder them to the top of the screw but at that point you might as well just attach them directly to the rail to have one less point of failure. Much easier and simpler to keep the two things separate in my opinion. Thanks for watching 😃
I swear, it's like you can read my mind. I've been wondering about just this very thing for the past few days. Very helpful video!😃
Haha, glad I was able to help out then! Thanks for watching 😃
Very nice, I am using a very similar method on my layout now. Glad to see I had the same idea as another great modeler.
They say great minds think alike 😉 thanks for watching 👍
Great video, well presented and using a tried and tested traditional method. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it. I've used this technique extensive across the modular layout and it was something a lot of people have asked about so it's great to hear so many people are finding this video useful. Thanks for watching 😃
You have empowered me to build a modular layout for home and show use. thank you
Awesome, really glad to hear that! Best of luck and thanks for watching 😃
This turned out to be the video I never knew I needed. That's my weekend plans sorted
Amazing! So glad to hear people are finding this video useful - best of luck and thanks for watching 😃
Perfect timing! .. I'm just about to order 4x sections of plywood to begin a 4-board L shaped layout .. this tutorial has covered one of my main concerns .. my genuine thanks to you :)
That's fantastic Phil, really glad to hear this video has answered one of your big questions and best of luck with your layout! Thanks for watching 😃
Im building an N Guage layout and like others I tried copper plates, however made a major hash of it. After watching this video I popped out to get some brass screws and tested your method on a scrap bit of track and a screw clamped into a helping hand. Worked perfect so tomorrow with sort the track joints between my two boards, thank you
Awesome, really glad to hear it worked for you! The other advantage of doing it this way is that the screw is anchored into the baseboard which creates a much stronger hold. Best of luck for tomorrow and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Im only an early learner so wont be doing how to videos when I start uploading new videos of new layout, like others that have helped me your defo be getting a link and mention, thanks once again
Thanks for uploading this as have been trying to build a portable layout over 2 boards in oo gauge as a memorial to my late mum called jamfield
Glad to hear you've found it useful Paul, what a wonderful tribute. Best of luck with the layout and thanks for watching 😃
Marvellous!A very clear and easy to follow explanation.
You mentioned about using a small regular hammer here(rather than a track pin hammer). Do you have or is it a possiblity to do a video about using diy tools and equipment (eg car body filler etc) on a model railway? I'm personally a firm believer in being as economical as possible in railway modelling as it is all too easy for costs to skyrocket when using specific railway items.
I understand fully that you specialise in quality,fine detail models!
Really glad you enjoyed it! I don't have anything specific on using diy tools but pretty much all my layouts are built on that principle using a bog standard tool kit, a drill and a soldering iron. Oh and a modelling knife I got for £3!
The most fancy thing I use is a dremel which just makes cutting track a lot easier - but definitely not essential. There are some who like to use all manner of fancy tools but I find it all a bit of a distraction to be honest. I'd rather use what I have right here and now instead of having to set up something to do a very specific job, especially when I have very limited space as it is. Thanks for watching 😃
Fantastic tutorial! I had so many problems with joints on my old layout I gave up and made a permanent joint to my lift up section!
This is pure gold! Thanks ever so much.
Really glad to hear you've found it so useful! I thought this might be a bit of a niche video but I'm surprised with how many people have been wondering about how to do this. Thanks for watching 😃
Another great update! I like the nod to the big hammer too! (you do what you like! It's not their railway!)
Thanks! Haha, yes I do like to poke fun when I can 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
Excellent video, this really explained how to align track on the modules and at lift outs. Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken
Thanks Ken, really glad to hear you enjoyed the video and it was easy to follow. Thanks for watching 😃
A very helpful video, didn't think of using brass screws so I will definitely give that a try and a great way of ballesting the ends if the boards as well 😀
My pleasure Adam, yeah the brass screws do a really good job of holding the track in place. They make the rails quite strong too so they can take quite a knock - not that I'd recommend testing that for yourself! Thanks for watching 😃
I have been thinking of doing a modular layout and this just gave me the information I needed to do it. Thank you so much. And I will do the first ballasting technique you used I like that one.
GOD BLESS from America
🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂
Awesome! I've seen a lot of people saying they want to try building a modular layout recently so I figured this video would definitely be interesting/useful for those giving it a go. Thanks for watching 😃
A very informative video! This might be for me in the future
Great to hear that Ben! Thanks for watching😃
A mystery solved for me as a beginner, thanks great vid
Awesome, glad I was able to help Robert. Thanks for watching 😃
A really enjoying video 😊👍
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching 😃
[thats, interesting. i, bought some good used ho-scale track that had some of the ties sleepers removed from some of the track that i bought. i, asume that someone had done this samething that youre doing in this great video]👍
Possibly but sometimes people remove the sleepers from the end of track so that adding fishplates is easier. They then use cosmetic sleepers under the plain rail to fill in the gap. One easy way to check is if the rail has any remnants of solder or glue on them that suggests they have been used in this way. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Amazing, just what I was looking for. Thanks so much. Keep up the great work 👍 👏
Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching 😃
This will help me alot. Thankyou
My pleasure, glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching 😃
FANTASTIC
Thanks Jade! Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching 😃
I love it! Watching your video even has me thinking of possible ideas too like connecting the power to the connecting bolts (and nut or metal grommet from the other side) so that you have one less thing to worry about when putting together.
Awesome, yeah you could definitely route the power through the bolts or the dowels. I just decided not to since I figured it would make it harder to get to the wiring in the future if there was ever an issue. Thanks for watching 😃
Great idea, to use screws to prop up the rails, and solder onto them.
And since they anchor down into the frame of the baseboard it makes the ends of the rails really strong too. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy - Indeed, a solid foundation where it matters. And the built-in height adjustment in each screw is perfect too.
I am thinking of wiring the screws to copper strips on the sides of the baseboards. The strips touch those on the opposite side. Though less reliable than a plug and connector, it can be used for e.g, hinged boards that are used often.
Thanks for inspiring and informing me.
Greetings from the Netherlands
I’m about to make my first ever layout. My first ever model railway. And it needs to be modular! And done in a short time. Yup. Christmas. However, all the fancy stuff (okay painting track and train stock weathering) I have decided I can do after Christmas!
I wanted a layout, that could be modular, (your videos are awesome!) with some lighting, and two ovals (I’m using the Hornby trakmat extensions with the pack oval so no tricky track planning until I expand - which I will as it is super addictive. I was warned!)
My main concern after electrics (I can wire a house but the language for model railway electrics had me somewhat confused 😆)
Then my next worry was ‘how do you protect the rails on the edge of the board’ I didn’t really want to leave them as is if I moved it (high breakage/damage chance 😐)
BUT I wasn’t convinced any form of cutting of track was allowed.
In short I thought cut the track the world will end and all the research will be for nought.
Then I found this video and now I know it’s allowed, the train will still run (I’m doing the same as you with the bus line - bus line had me baffled for a while I even asked Alexa @ one point!) and I won’t have made a mess of it!
I had no clue how. As said I am brand new (as in the plan started end of Oct) though I’ve wanted one for years now.
Electrics was a massive concern as I want to give my layout the best possible chance to have a good solid basework. Plus I don’t want to blow myself up.
Thanks so much for having made this video and all the other videos you share!
🌟🙌🏻👍🏻🌟✌🏻
Angel.
Glad you found the video helpful. There aren’t really any rules when it comes to model railways so do things whatever way you prefer. If you’re worried about the electrics I did do a beginners guide to wiring in my Model Railway Basics series which you might find useful. Thanks for watching 😃
Nice video mate. I have to say that actually looks easy! this will come in handy for the future as I have a small exhibition layout in mind so this will be very helpful. - Nicholas.
Thanks Nicholas! Like most things with model railways, a lot of it is actually fairly easy if you break it down into simple steps. Thanks for watching 😃
7:31 I do not know too much about railway modelling, but I would try two things to improve the cutting:
1. Cut first, push the rails closer to reduce the gap then fix them to the board. If you worry about the alignment after the cutting, you can do it with each rail one by one. So while working on the left/right rail, the other keeps the track in place.
2. Cut in 45 degree to reduce the effect on the wheels. This may break some compatibility rules with other people's boards, but most cases that is not an issue.
I think the above technics would reduce the sound of wheels running over the gap, but let me know if I am wrong.
Having done it both ways I can definitely say it's much easier to secure the track first and then cut the rail. In an ideal world you would use a gooseneck attachment on the rotary tool to get a clean 90 degree cut so that you're removing as little material as possible. Thanks for watching 👍
11k subscribers!
I know, I can't believe it myself! Thanks for watching 😃
Fantastic video :)
Glad you enjoyed it David, thanks for watching 😃
Like your method, those brass flatheads are truly solid screws which will form a great base to hold the rails. Maybe even better than with a pcb tie.
A few remarks on your soldering. The amount of blob won’t do much for the soldered connection. The best soldered connection consists of an as small as possible gap between the two parts which need to be connected. This gap needs to be of capillary character to achieve such strength. In fact, when you produce a blob on the screws you could better file it down, before you start soldering the rails on. In one of the solder joints you showed in this vid, when you pull up the soldering iron; a slight shrinkage in the solder is visible. That to me is a sign your capillary gap was too big. Other ways to determine from the outside of soldering joint if it’s good is the way it glances. Any dullness or crumpling is an indication of a ‘glued’ connection, instead of a soldered one.
Want to improve your soldering?
Just take some scraps of copper and join ‘m. Also check those joints. Take an old screwdriver and especially try to mechanically disassemble the joints. You will notice those dull and crumbled joints will come apart rather easily.
For the rest, great 👍 vid. Very much like your input on the alignment.
Thanks Vincent, the brass screws do work well as I'm not only screwing into the plywood top but also the frame below as well so they are really solid.
I'll be the first to admit my soldering is completely rubbish though 😂 It's the one thing that, no matter how much practice I do, I never seem to get any better at. That said, if someone as bad at soldering as me can achieve this then anyone should be able to give the tutorial a go if they want to. I'm definitely saving your comment for future reference though to pull out next time I having trouble with it. Thanks for the info and thanks for watching 👍
Nice video mate, I am on N-Gauge and I use this technique on my modular layout. Like the tip about the masking tape, not thought about that one. A couple of tips if you want a even closer join with the rails is 1/ place card between the two base boards before laying the track, 2/ use a larger thin cutting disc so you cut the track vertical with the Dremel. When you split the boards remove the card and when you place them back together the joint is even smaller.
Thanks, always good to hear of others building their own modular layouts. Great tips too! I don't usually build multiple modules at the same time (the two station boards in this video were the one exception) but if I do ever end up in this situation again I'll definitely keep those in mind. Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks. This answered my one question about the process.
Good how to video, thanks for sharing
Glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching 😃
Very interesting tutorial 👍👌
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching 😃
Lovely!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching 😃
Very cool vid, thanks 🤙🏻
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching 😃
nicely done! Thank you.
Thanks Bob, glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching 😃
10:21 why not use the screws to transfer power to the underside of the board? Just use long enough screws to fully penetrate the board, then solder wires to them.
Because you're screwing into the frame of the board not just the top surface. The point is to anchor the screw (and by proxy the rail) deep into the frame to hold it all as secure as possible. If anything goes wrong with your electrics and they're embedded into the baseboard frame, it's going to be a huge job to make what would otherwise be a fairly simple repair.
Nice work
Nick Australia
Glad you enjoyed it Nick, thanks for watching 😃
Excellent! Well demonstrated...
Are you still model railroading?
Thanks! I am indeed, I’m currently getting this same layout ready for an exhibition this weekend. Thanks for watching 😃
Hey mate only just discovered your channel absolutely amazing videos I’ve learnt loads, I am in the process of creating some modular boards which are going to be different junctions and struggled with how to connect the track from one board to another without the awkward fish plates
Quick question on the wiring where did you get the connectors from? I’m guessing you solder them to the track metal from underneath then just connect them at the bottom of the board?
Hi there, really glad you've been enjoying and learning from the videos and best of luck with your own modular layout. There's a link to the connectors in the description along with everything else used in the video.
Generally I have a set of bus wires that run round the whole layout hooked up using these connectors. I then have feeders that branch off the main bus wires that are soldered to the underside of the rail. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Awesome man, I purchased some XT60H Connector and did a quick test it created a connection even with a break in the track, now its tested I will be creating a track plan, setting the track and then adding the landscape, the only thing is my car is raised about 5-6 inches off the board as I will be having bridges etc so will need the scenery high so I can have rivers flowing under neath, at the moment im using polystyrene to raise the track, would you suggest that, or use wood? which would be much more fiddley? @@ThatModelRailwayGuy
This came at a good time for me. Been considering building a new layout that can be packed away. Thank you very much for clearing this up. As for your layout is really is coming on well. What are the platforms made from?
Awesome, glad it was helpful Lewis! I did a whole video on making the platforms previously which you can check out here: th-cam.com/video/D3j7Mvn6yt4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching 😃
its not easy to do dear
That's why I made a tutorial 😉 Thanks for watching 👍
Great video. I would like use this method but I'm using Woodland Scenics risers and foam rail track. I will need to experiment with glueing the screws in I guess but if I'm relying on glue anyway is it worth adding the screws at all?
In that instance you could use copper clad sleepers instead of screws which can be glued more easily to a flat surface. You definitely need something to support the rails and hold them fast at the end of each section though, otherwise they'll be incredibly delicate and likely to cause derailments over the join.
Personally, I would strongly recommend having a section of raised wood on either side of the join matching the height of your riser and screwing into that. This will not only create a much smoother join but it will also protect the foam risers from getting damaged too. You would't need much, perhaps a couple of centimetres on each side of the join. That's how I would do it if it were me. Thanks for watching 😃
Another great video, I was hoping to see a lift up section. I'm trying to do one myself and I'm finding it difficult to get dowels and locating for the dowels. Do you have any videos on this or any advice please?
Hi David, personally I get the alignment dowels for my layout from Station Road Baseboards - well worth a look.
Episode 3 of my modular series shows more about how I install these to the baseboards (th-cam.com/video/in1GJX94DEY/w-d-xo.html) while Episode 6 shows a quick look at my folding fiddle yard (th-cam.com/video/4DRru5pxEfQ/w-d-xo.html) which might give you some ideas for your hinged section. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Could you solder the wire across the join underneath to the brass screws where they protrude through the plywood?
Hi there, yes in theory that would be possible. It would make the installation of the alignment dowels a bit more complicated and of course if anything goes wrong or gets disconnected it's more tedious to get in there for repairs once the dowel are fixed in place.
For me it didn't make sense as I have more than just the track power crossing the joints - lighting, point control and feedback detection also cross over too so I tend to use multipin connectors now. Thanks for watching 😃
Considering you’ve soldered the rails to brass screws, could you not directly wire the electrical connection to those?
The point of the brass screw is that it's embedded into the frame of the baseboard to hold the rail really securely. Yes, there's nothing to stop you from soldering the wires to the screws but if anything ever goes wrong taking apart the baseboard to get to them is going to be a massive job. Much easier to solder directly to the rail and probably more reliable too since there are less points of failure. Thanks for watching 😃
My first impression was "ugh !".....but it's simple
Of course in an ideal situation I wouldn't have to dismantle the layout at all but not all of us have the space for a permanent setup. Thanks for watching 👍
PVA, is that wood PVA or normal PVA? I didn't know till the other day that PVA came as for wood!! really good video's you do
Hi Leslie, there's a link in the description to the PVA glue I use but that said I don't think it matters much. I've used all different types and brands in the past myself. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Great video and well presented. What fittings did you use to locate the boards together. They looked rather like dowels and holes but of a metal substrate. Cheers, Rick the Bulldog.
Thanks Rick! Yes I used metal alignment dowels - there's more info in this video where I go through the whole process of aligning the baseboards with each other: th-cam.com/video/in1GJX94DEY/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
On the 2nd wiring option where a power bus doesn't exist how are those feeders you reference transfer power if they aren't patched into a bus? Thanks
Hi John, the track itself acts as the bus here. In that 2nd option you're simply taking the power that's already applied to the track on one section and daisy chaining it to the next. The obvious disadvantage with this system though is that if you loose power to the track on one board (ie dodgy fishplates or points) it will affect all the other boards later in the chain. Hope that makes sense and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy thanks. I enjoy your videos and detailed explanations!
Hello! I'm actually looking for the video you're referring to in this video. "In previous videos, I've gone over how actually to align the baseboards," but I can't tell where to find that video or what it's called. There's no link or card or whatever with where to find it. Can anybody help me out? I might not be able to use the method, as I haven't actually used wood on my layout, it's all foam with just a thin layer of hardboard at the bottom. I just want to find some different methods.
Hiya, I’ve actually shown it in several videos but check out Building A Modular Mode Railway: Episode 3 as that’s where I went into the most depth about it: th-cam.com/video/in1GJX94DEY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vfj3gPob24XOfkKe Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Thanks! I even search your channel for "Baseboard" and didnt' find it, or didn't recognize it for some reason.
Great video, really helpful :) what power connectors did you use? Do you have a link?
Hi there, I've just added a link to them in the description now! Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy awesome, thanks mate!
Apologies if I have asked this before (I think my mind is slipping!): Do you have a video of how you manage using both DC and DCC locos on your layout or, if not, might you make such a video? Many thanks.
Hi Paul, essentially the mainline is all wired from the main power bus. The sidings and station loop are powered from a second bus which can be disconnected for DC running and the power is transferred by switching the points from the mainline. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Thanks for your prompt reply. I'm probably trying to over complicate things!
Is that a heat proof glove from your live steam set ?
It is indeed! Thanks for watching 😃
This is an angry comment
And this is a passive aggressive response 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
Thank you for this. I’m making my first permanent layout (with a heck of a lot of help from your videos) and this will help me line parts up as I ballast and decorate them separately - I guess it’s just my style to avoid ruining the entire layout at once.
Amazing! So glad you've been finding the videos helpful and it's great to hear this video has extra uses even for permanent layouts. Thanks for watching 😃
Drive your track pins into the baseboard how you like!!!!!
I hate hitting my fingers messing about with track pins, and have the pin push device, but have switched to very fine screws. Off eBay listed as track screws, pre drill with a 1.5 mm, and then screw down with a tiny cross head screwdriver. The advantage is the track pressure onto the cork can be adjusted, and alterations are easy, just unscrew.
Haha, I like this attitude John! That's great to hear about using screws too. I know Budget Model Railways have used those in the past and they seem to do alright. As you say, I imagine making alterations are incredibly easy! Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Part of my switch from pins to screws is a change from a 6x4 frame covered with Sundela board, for my son's Hornby loop, to in retirement doing a modular/permanent model, with a plywood/cork base. Pins don't work!! , I've also invested in ModelTech's track joining system. Enjoying the videos, cheers J.
I made the mistake of ballasting with two baseboards connected… that wasn’t a good decision! Like your masking tape technique.
Oh no! Hope you were able to sort it out. Yeah the masking tape is really handy, definitely keeps the joints nice and flush! Thanks for watching 😃
Thank you for the video. This has arrived at the perfect time. I am going to try your technique for my lift up section. Pleased it worked well and once again, thank you.
My pleasure Tim, hope work goes well on your lift up section and thanks for watching 😃
This will be helpful, I’m building a portable layout and I’ve been having problems with this problem.-Das Mann
Awesome, so glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for watching 😃
In my (in)experience (so if wrong it's all my fault!) it helps to tin the rail and screws with 'acid' flux. That suggestion usually brings down a fusillade predicting corrosion. Seems not to happen if the join is cleaned after with metho and water. If the idea still offends, tin the components away from the layout and wash properly, or use something like the American 'LaCo' flux which quoting from the bottle is ' lead free, non acid and non toxic'; and again from the bottle '1. apply flux, 2. solder, 3. wipe with wet cloth'. CHECK THE SPEC SHEET for safety, and don't breathe - tin outside in the open air.
The idea is to tin with 'wet' solder, leaving a very thin layer which will easily bond with other tinned surfaces. In general once the parts to be joined are pre-tinned they do not need tinning again to join. Something like you are doing is thus easier and protected from 'cold' joins.
Don't forget to use a damp cloth to clean the iron, and re-tin occasionally. Sometimes 'tip refresher' helps - try your local electronics shop.
The safety point is interesting. It really does help to read the spec sheets of the products we use. Having said that, we use a lot of polymers, especially in scenery. An awful lot of them don't set completely enough to lose their smell. It does make one wonder about on-going toxicity and ALLERGIES.
Thanks for your efforts.
You can if you want to but I've found just soldering the rail to the screw works perfectly fine and I haven't had any issues across the entire layout. Thanks for watching 👍
Thanks for the video, very helpful
My pleasure, thanks for watching 😃
Just come across your video and am interested in using this method on my latest layout but have not had much success cutting track using my Dremel (the blades I have just seem to bounce & then shatter!😢) so you seem to have a solid thin metal cutting disc...can I ask where you get them from?.....great video by the way 👍🏻👏🏻
It does take a bit of practice I find and if you're not confident with it then the disc does tend to bounce off. I'm a lot better at it now so that when I cut rails it's like butter but it took a while to get to that stage. I mostly use a set of diamond slitting discs I got on Amazon a while back. Don't worry they're not as expensive as they sound but they have been very useful. Thanks for watching 😃
Thank you for your speedy reply to my Dremel Q.
I did some googling before posting to you and came across similar diamond cutting discs on Amazon but was wary of them due to large differences in revues between 2 suppliers of what looked like the same product (one had no lower than 3 star & said were great for cutting metal without breaking, other had many 1 star saying were easily broke & were rubbish !? 🤔....could you possibly provide a link to ones you settled on please?
Thanks for another great video, I was wondering how you managed to keep everything on the straight and narrow across the joints in the modules... now I know 👍
Thanks Nigel, yeah it definitely allows me to get locos running straight away as soon as the layout is setup without having to do any micro adjustments. Thanks for watching 😃
How to align track: First hire a group of Southern men.
Second: Make sure one of them has a good singing voice.
Third: Get the group to sing a song about how one time their girlfriend left and what they had to do get her back. All while nudging the track a bit at a time.
Fourth: oh wait you're talking about model railroad track... that's probably a cool process too
Haha! I'm sure I could try this out but I think hiring a group of singing Southern men would be more expensive than my current technique 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
how did you fit it from dc to dcc and run them
Hi Paul, as I explained in the video I have power bus running around the whole layout that's connected to the mainline. I just swap out the DCC controller for the DC one if I ever need to run analog trains. Thanks for watching 😃
Is it essential to use a Dremmil? Can you use track cutters (shears)?
Hi John, no not at all. I use a Dremel because it's what I find easiest to work with but if you prefer working with track cutters that's fine too. The essential bit is you get a nice clean cut. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Thanks and thanks for the very informative videos
I'm late to the video, great suggestion with the brass screws. Excellent video.
Thanks! They're definitely a lot easier to come by than copper sleepers and more sturdy too in my experience. Thanks for watching 😃
To transfer power, perhaps one could solder wires to the brass screws used to secure the rails in place if they're long enough.
I really should pin a comment about this.
So yes in theory it's possible but I wouldn't recommend it - the point of the screws is that they're buried deep into the frame of the baseboard to create a really strong anchor for the rails. If you start hacking away at that to attach wires you're getting rid of that benefit and it'll potentially be a lot more complicated to fix if there's ever an electrical problem.
You could always solder them to the top of the screw but at that point you might as well just attach them directly to the rail to have one less point of failure. Much easier and simpler to keep the two things separate in my opinion. Thanks for watching 😃
Awesome. Thanks :)
My pleasure, thanks for watching 😃
Fantastic video!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching 😃