In today's video I will reveal the plans for my "new" old barge boat. donations via paypal: myfirstboat2020@gmail.com buy us a coffee: ko-fi.com/myfi...
I'm sitting in my home office in Houston, TX chuckling at your comments about yourself towards the end of your video thinking no matter where in the world, there are people like us who realize often times the journey is more fulfilling than the end result. If people would only realize it's the journey that's most satisfying, not getting there. Often times, "getting there" doesn't quite live up to your expectations. I too have a short attention span but I'm retired and can jump from here to there now realizing that's the actual fun part rather than the end result. PS - I think you're a pretty smart fun guy and enjoy your videos. I just hope you get the "barge" finished as I'm curious to see exactly what you have planned.
I'm sitting in my downtown Houston office realizing the video creator just spoke to my soul as you had mentioned. The destination usually isn't half as exciting as the journey. I often joke that I have a sickness of creating an idea and having to build the idea, not just own the idea after it's built but rather to see if the idea is even possible as a concept. It's definitely a sickness lol
I would make your construction narrower so you can walk around on the sides of the boat. When you are docking it you will be glad you did have a walk way.
When adding the C channel to the bottom of the hull, you might consider using that channel for a heat exchanger for the engine. When I worked for Crowley Marine Corp. their "Invader" class offshore tugs used C channel as keel coolers and one of the really nice features of that is that it is really tough. The "Robin" class tugs that they had purchased (in the mid 80's) had Fernstrum keel coolers and they had a lot more problems because if you drag the bottom over anything, you're going to have to haul the boat out of the water to repair them. The Invader class boats had 2 20 cylinder EMD's for power and were designed to not need any raw water for main engine cooling and I'm unaware of any of the 30 boats built (Pathfinder and Invader) having keel cooling problems. Talk to your marine engineer friend about sizing the C channel to do double duty to act as a keel and to keep the main engine cool.
You need to make minimum 2 of optimum 3 watertight compartments in the hull. In shipping they call it MVZ. Main vertical zones. If you have a accident in the front of the boat, you have the opportunity to close of 1 of 3 “zones” to make your way home. Also think of installing automatic fire detection in the engine room. Maybe co2, inergen or 1230 fire protection fluid.
Good ideea with watertinght compartments, even more than two or three! Imagine that you will need fuel, water, sewage tanks and so on... Moreover, for an engine room compartment you should do some reinforcements. Maybe would be a bit cheaper to think ar some propulsion engines on deck, having Z-drive, in order to avoid stern-tubes, stern-tubes sealings, watertightness ... But pls, first think first, just do some US measurements to the hull! Just to know how we stand. Concerning that three fore keels, it's important to know on what waters you will sail. In case of shallow waters and grounding, those keels will make you a difficult life for maneuvering in the mud, but you'll be allowed to maneuver only fore and aft! Maybe is a good ideea to consult some naval architects office for some strengtness and other specific calculations. Think about it! I'll revert sometimes All the best! 😉
You crack me up!!! Right at the end of this video you give us a 3sec blirp of a " new" boat.... I too, have a short attention span... But I always look forward to seeing your video pop up. Glad to see you're slimming down on your inventory.... Very interested in your new build. As soon as you started talking about a single engine in your barge I kept saying. Bow thruster... Bow thruster... Then you said it... Yeah with a single stern drive you'll need it. Frankly, even if you had twins you'd want a bow thruster. Don't rule out a stern thruster. Talk to your engineer about it.... He'll probably say you don't really need it, but I would consider it greatly. In a river, with traffic, current, wind, and a large barge. You may be glad you have it. Sooner or later you'll probably sale your first boat and move on the barge.... I would. But you'll want a little sport boat for day trips and runs into town. Think about a small crane to pick it up and set it or your barge.... Great video, can't wait to see how this works out...👍
Gday Crew,,, I think the use of a pontoon for a conversion is a fantastic idea . There are so many different ways it can be used ,,,and look at all that space , this is going to be a Mega Cool project ,, Respect
Is the existing deck a necessary structural member? Or can you make a lower main deck with tankage and storage below and then have a 7' to 8' cabin well below the max bridge clearance.
Sometimes the only way to learn and gain hands-on experience is by doing it at your own expense - If lucky as an apprentice or alternatively creating your own work to learn from ... Looking forward to seeing how you progress with your barge / house boat to be !
Where you end up using this vessel is extremely important for the design. You will have a lot of what is called 'windage'. Windage is equivalent to surface area exposed to wind. The design so far is most similar to a house boat. House boats are suitable for protected anchorages, rivers and safe waterways. If you intend to take this boat anywhere with any significant wind or wave action, I would suggest consultation with an engineer. Also, is there a reason, besides complexity, that you're not lowering the deck to the bottom of the boat? If you did that you would significantly increase the maximum degree of stability, (the maximum angle of tilt before the boat tips over,) and reduce windage. You might even be able to turn it into a boat capable of limited ope ocean transits - especially if you were to pour lead ballast into the bilge channels. I'm no expert, mind you. Spent time on boats. Sailed a little. Shipwrecked one. That's about it.
Im glad to see you kept the yacht. You have put a lot of time and labor into it and I have watched it from the beginning when you practically gutted it. Im interested in the barge but would like to see you finish the yacht and paint it. You have done an amazing job so far with the restoration. Looking forward to seeing both builds and what's in store for the future.
Many of these potons have been converted into houseboats in the Netherlands. I advise you to do this too. No matter what you try, you will never be able to convert this poton into a safe self-propelled craft. Currents and crosswinds cannot be overcome. If you get into bad weather with this, it will definitely go wrong, even on a river. But a good captain takes everything into account and never overestimates his ship. Do you still want to sail yourself: Go for outboard engines, preferably diesel because of safety, maintenance, better maneuverability and space saving. The best solution, do you have friends with a tow or push boat? Veel succes en geluk. Groeten uit Holland.🌷
love your projects! on your barge I would leave a walk way around the outside, for docking and working the locking lines. also ease of working on the outside of your boat.
The barge boat, two things to consider. A stern drive, or Inboard Outboard (IO) are much more problematic than a straight shaft. Given the reduced reliability and increased maintenance of an IO over a conventional straight shaft, IO probably isn’t the best trade-offs choice. Seems to me you might want a walkable gunwale on the sides of your new enclosure. Near water level access to large segments of the sides might aid in docking, mooring, and rafting with other boats. Just sharing what came to mind. I enjoy your channel and look forward to your future videos. 😎
Have you considered electric pod mounted POD Drives with infinite 360 travel? You would need solar panels and batteries, inverters etc.... I think you might be able to get financial help / sponsorship from manufacturers for this project !!!! THIS WOULD BE A REALLT COOL PROJECT AND I AM CERTAIN WOULD GENERATE A LOT OF VIEWS!!!
your frankness and sincerity is one of the funniest things about your videos. I fully agree;: you are right to have fun and raise experience. But - please - complete the renovation of the first boat, come on .... :)
Each week I never know what to expect.. but I Kno for very sure it will be fun... No matter where you go or what you buy an fix.... I WILL be there to watch you do it!! I really do enjoy your style an approach... Looking forward to the next journey.. can't wait to see what you do to the barge.. So far everything you've planned out looks doable for sure!! See you next week my friend.. Zoom , zoom what's that???? ✌🏼💗😊❣️
Hi from UK . I would cut the deck and use the existing deck in the bulge this way you can reduce the head room and cover it with marine ply . Under the side decks fit your tanks for water, fuel wastewater easy to get at and instal .Look at a UK narrow boat for idea's .
Wow very exiting project. I am not a marine engineer but I think you can get more head room inside, by lowering your deck inside the boat hull. I mean not the entire deck but some part of it.
You may consider welding protection to the bottom for the plastic stern and bow thrusters. In my part of the world there are still very large trees floating in the Salt Water. ( up to 2 Meters) IF, you encountered one, It would certainly compromise your plastic thruster housings. The trees in Germany are probably not as large, but have the potential to do considerable damage. You have been doing well in your boat projects, this one will still a challenge.
in the Netherlands many of these pontoons are either attic barge or deck barge in Amsterdam and Zaandam they are still used for transporting cocoa, coffee etc in bags. good luck with building,, don't make it too high because of stability, keep weight low,,
You're doing great! I've been watching from the start and I look forward to seeing how this project turns put. This is just a though, but here is a suggestion: Using a stern drive is smart, especially if you install a stringer mounted drive system, it will keep the propulsion stresses off the transom, probably much easier in this case since you have to modify and build that. The engine torque and propulsion stresses become part of the motor mounts, that is easier to build and strengthen in this case. Parts and good used/rebuilt drives are available online (ebay, Amazon) and can accommodate a wide selection of engines. I don't know how much horsepower you want but it seems that a V-8 at around 225 or better would do a great job. The most difficult part I see here is finding long steering and throttle cables if the helm is to be put up front. It's just a suggestion, you have so many options here, I wish you the best.
Consider looking at how American houseboats are engined. They'll often have two relatively small outboard motors on the stern of the boat, and this makes for a very maneuverable boat.
Canal barges have flat bottoms to deal with depth limitations of the canals they navigate. If you add underwater appendages for drive and rudder, try to keep these minimal. Options include putting the screw into a tunnel, or maybe even considering a Schotte SPJ drive unit, if you can find one at a decent price. These are flush with the bottom; I guess that would also help with manoeuvering.
If you are looking at putting in bow thrusters, due to the length of the vessel, l would look at putting in stern thrusters; this will give greater mobility, especially when moving to a mooring.
Enjoy all of your videos. Appreciate your time to make them. The walk around path at the stern would seem to make access to docks, boarding and the water line more easy than the elevated section extending all the way to the sides and stern. The additional height above the water could be an hindrance. Look forward to what design and plans are in the future.
why not cut out the barge to fit your first boat to slip into the hull this would cut your cost in half and you will be able to use your boat in the build. you can add winches to the barge to secure your first boat and rubber pads to cushion your hull. as well as use the drop pole as a anchoring for both. feel free to contact me id be glad to collaborate with you on the build i have more than 12 years experience working with inland barges and their layouts. cheers mate.
Oh! I forgot to tell ya when you were doing it but when ya plasma cut stainless steel you need to use shielding gas instead of compressed air. There’s a fitting and guage for the tank. The gas, 70/30 argon (or chose any inert gas ya like argon is cheapest) anyway 70%argon 30% carbon dioxide. Should help your next stainless project. Stainless steel has a lot of carbon in it when made.
I figured the barge was going to be a floating house to live on. Adding an engine + steering is a real project and you will need continuing professional advice and an upgrade of your fabrication skills (your electronic skills are super). To many places on the yacht are not full repairs but just good enough to slap on some paint and move on. The barge will require a higher skill level. Good luck!
is there anything, structurally speaking, that is preventing you from taking advantage of the barge's freeboard height (ie, from the waterline up to the sheerline) and incorporate that in the final design height? in other words, you could lower the current floor of the barge down to the actual hull. (obviously not completely as you want a nice layer between you and the water) . this way you end up with a much more streamlined boat, much lower in height, lower CG (inot that it matters that much, it is a steel barge after all!). it would force you to plan carefully the location of tanks, and any other large items in order to "mould" the furniture around, but with such a large area, even if you have a tank that its, say, 150mm high but spanning a large area, you get alot ot tankage (both for diesel and water). this is an incredible project. so much potential in a white canvas!
A low CG would still be advantageous, not really in moving fast or making quick maneuvers, but it does help in preventing the boat from tipping over since it is long and narrow.
Thats too funny... I sold off all the other boats to free up money...then .... I bought a new boat. I like the plans and the bow thrusters will be a huge help.
I would suggest a flat roof for more living area. If you are set on curved roof trusses, you should do a search for pre fab structural steel before you set the dimensions.
I agree about the stern dive, they also maintenance requirements that involve the removal of the leg. A straight shaft is simple and robust. I have also seen outboard installations where the outboard is not on the stern but in a compartment with a removable cover, and can be rotated horizontal to access the prop.
My greatest concern would be the ability to actually see in front of your boat at a sufficient range to allow manoverabily when docking, unless fitted with cameras on the bow
Wow! I've binge-watched all of your videos in the last two days. What an achievement already. When it started, I thought "there is a lot of progress for a couple of weekends" but quickly it transformed into a "wait, is this a full-time job now?". So that would be my question: how many hours were already put into your "first" boat. Also what is the financial invest here (I guess there will be a breakdown of cost once the project is officially complete). Is the Bayliner a special edition? It really looks nice especially with the Coupé style canvas. Love it. I have a ton of questions to ask, but one last one for today: how is the mooring handled in Berlin? I guess you can't just chose a spot and attach a platform and one, two, three… boats. What is the monthly fee and how is the process of getting a spot. Ok, enough for now, can't wait for the next videos.
Not an expert by any means, but I would question how effective a bow thruster would be that type of hull/waterline combo. Also means you would have to have a tunnel for the thrust wash through the entire beam... which would also make mounting and maintenance hard. Maybe a front-mounted outboard with a extended leg would be better (ugly though...) - all the best with build!
Set the thing up with hydraulic drive on main propulsion and thrusters and you can run the whole shooting match off one power pack making the main engine a big hydraulic pump. Could be diesel or electric or whatever you like. A used excavator would yield a lot of components. Ha, just noticed the Mariner 30hp at the end of the clip. That is a Tohatsu engine made in the Japanese factory. I have an identical one badged Mercury. It will push the (3.1metre, 46 kg) inflatable tender to my launch at 36 knots under the right conditions when it’s not trying to kill me which is most of the time. Good times.
Interesting concept. Your initial plan shows the new superstructure extending out to the edge of the hull on both sides. How will you access the sides when you come alongside a dock or another boat and need to tie up in the middle of the boat? Also, the barge you bought looks rusted in places. Will you check the thickness of all the plating? You could have some thin places that need to be cut out or reinforced somehow.
Nearly lost it again, anyway, I have a floatplane that look, sounds and flies like real, cockpit roof slides shut or open, water drips off the pontoons when rising from the water after leaving a wake so if you imagine the various shapes needed for the wings, rudder, elevators, propellor, radial engine, pilot's and passenger's seats, windscreen, canopy, radio antenna, pontoons with little wheels sticking out the bottom you can rest assured you can build anything with millimeter precission. I also have a blue water race boat with two Ferrari V12s in the back with one facing forward and the other backwards to counter rotate the racing props that appear to spin and makes lots of noise etc. I came across it when trying to learn Autocad and found Second Life was the answer.
exciting plans, lotsa fun ahead. with a stern leg dont you have to haul out more often to maintain it? surely thats a big effort and cost with a barge??
Love your boating odyssey! Keep up the good work. So are you turning the barge into a houseboat and then selling it? That might be a good plan. Best wishes from Savannah, GA!
Just a comment, but if you have that much hull weight and length you really should think about a shaft motor instead of a stern drive. Know costs more money with steering and all, but stern drive is going to be hard to handle turning. Will put much stress on stern drive. Just a thought
Did you turn a profit on your other flips? Why a stern drive rather than welding in a stuffing box and keeping the hull shape the same and just adding a large rudder? The benefit of the stern drive is that you can trim it for a planing hull. Your barge will never plane. My guess is you found a scrap boat with a good stern drive system, but If you look around I bet you could find something similar to cut up with all the running gear you'd need as a full inboard. The stern drive has a lot of moving parts to transfer over, and they're high maintenance.
Why don't you buy a container and well it to the deck, then you have the same square shape as into your design. It might give you the possibility to walk alongside from aft to bow.
with big boats comes big potential for trouble. Have you gotten quotes on insurance? A boat that size that sinks or becomes disabled in an active waterway can cost you tens of thousands, and up. Per day. A twenty five knot wind to beam to say nothing of a tide while at anchor is going to produce forces orders of magnitude above what you’ve experienced. Look at the size of the boats that push or tow barges of this size and think about why they’re the size they are. What are the moorage costs, and will you be restricted in how long it can be left at anchor? Many jurisdictions limit larger boats to 72 hours, but turn a blind eye to smaller pleasure craft. ‘
I thought you had something with that first boat and looked forward to watching you enjoy it this new boating season. Since you said goodby to it and the rest, I must say goodbye to you.
Your old boats were all so "pretty", such classic lines. That is what got me interested in following your adventures. The barge is a brute - are you going to turn it from sow's ear to silk purse or will it still look like a piece of brutalist architecture when converted?
I lost the sound after 5 mins, so I apologize if you have answered this concern I have. I am a Naval Commander in theRCN, not a naval architect. The concern I have is stability, will you be taking into account the possibility of being top heavy.🇨🇦
Keep in consideration the idea of a full electric boat. For a slow, fresh water barge is the best solution: silent, simple, no maintenance, no smoke, no smell, no oil and diesel floating around and with a giant, flat roof for panels, also self-sufficient.
Simplify your life and don't build any cabins from scratch for living quarters - install a large modern travel trailer/camper right onto your deck. All the comforts and conveniences of a home in one package, including electrical, plumbing, fresh/grey/black water tanks, HVAC, e.t.c.
I was just wondering if you were going to bring the walls in a little so you can walk the gunnels? If you had to get to the bow or stern in a hurry wouldn't that be hard to do going through the boat or over, up and down stairs?
I concur, have some room along the gunnels to walk on. Also, the raised bridge above the engine bay would make an excellent steering position for the outside because of visibility, and also because all of the cable runs going toward it would be very short.
Great plans and decisions! Me too, I bought 7 boats in 9 years. Just sold my last extra a month ago and now we only have our steel cruiser similar to yours which is a keeper. A lot of money spent but the things I learned from them... priceless!!! All the best.
Not to brag but I bought 6 boats in one YEAR! Current count is 7. But just like you it seems that there is always one that stays with us throughout! My wife calls it a sickness, I just say I'm a collector!
Hi , I really like your project, I just finished a very similar project in France, with the very same hull, but 22 m long. I mounted an azimut pod on it with an 190 hp engine, works really well. Good luck on this one.
I'd leave some surface deck open on the sides, enough to at least work your way around the outside, rather than have the walls all the way to the side. The amount of interior floor space you'll lose is minimal.
Have you considered mounting 4 stroke outboard engines in an interior engine well ? They would operate like pod drives yet they would be protected from the elements. They could be easily raised /lowered and could be easily be removed for service if needed. This design if placed properly could eliminate the need for bow thrusters. diesel inboard with shaft drive is the first choice or four stroke outboard . stern drives are problematic in many ways .
Thank you for the video. I am curious: why the decision to add a stern drive unit? Maintenance costs for stern drive units are much higher, compared to shaft driven propulsion, as you have to service the leg (outdrive) and the engine, essentially doubling your costs and maintenance. I have not owned one with a stern drive, but I am interested in hearing more about your choice. Thank you and all the best from the UK.
An Outboard seems like the best option imo. Especially if you are doing bow thrusters. It would eliminate the need for the engine room and give you more living space. Less material, less labor is win. You could even use all electric motors and cover the roof with solar panels, have a small generator for backup and a large battery bank. However you go, love your work and all of your projects.
@@supersevenn Yes that makes sense to me... I wonder why he pick a stern drive... must be in his engine choice I need help understanding why a stern drive?
In my mind, the barge has to become the ultimate floating workshop! Table saw, band saw, chop box, planer, joiner, sanders, drill press, welders, dust collection system, workbenches galore, etc. And, of course, a shit-ton of solar on that huge roof and a massive bank of LiFePO4 batteries to collect and deliver all that energy. Looking good mate! Cheers, Sev
I would only cover half of it and make the rest i to a workshop. You have a boat to live on and a boat to plar with.. add a hoist or a davit crane on the side or fron center to load and unload from other boats or the water..
I'm sitting in my home office in Houston, TX chuckling at your comments about yourself towards the end of your video thinking no matter where in the world, there are people like us who realize often times the journey is more fulfilling than the end result. If people would only realize it's the journey that's most satisfying, not getting there. Often times, "getting there" doesn't quite live up to your expectations. I too have a short attention span but I'm retired and can jump from here to there now realizing that's the actual fun part rather than the end result. PS - I think you're a pretty smart fun guy and enjoy your videos. I just hope you get the "barge" finished as I'm curious to see exactly what you have planned.
Well said fellow Texan!
Livingston, TX 😊
And I am three and a half hours north of you at the southern end of the Toledo Bend Reservoir at Six Mile Tx wishing to do the exact same thing
Living in Cypress, TX (NW HOUSTON) myself. ✌️👋
I'm sitting in my downtown Houston office realizing the video creator just spoke to my soul as you had mentioned. The destination usually isn't half as exciting as the journey. I often joke that I have a sickness of creating an idea and having to build the idea, not just own the idea after it's built but rather to see if the idea is even possible as a concept. It's definitely a sickness lol
I would make your construction narrower so you can walk around on the sides of the boat. When you are docking it you will be glad you did have a walk way.
I was thinking the same. Also maybe lower the deck inside to keep your headroom but lower the overall height.
With a hand rail against the outside walls...
When adding the C channel to the bottom of the hull, you might consider using that channel for a heat exchanger for the engine. When I worked for Crowley Marine Corp. their "Invader" class offshore tugs used C channel as keel coolers and one of the really nice features of that is that it is really tough. The "Robin" class tugs that they had purchased (in the mid 80's) had Fernstrum keel coolers and they had a lot more problems because if you drag the bottom over anything, you're going to have to haul the boat out of the water to repair them. The Invader class boats had 2 20 cylinder EMD's for power and were designed to not need any raw water for main engine cooling and I'm unaware of any of the 30 boats built (Pathfinder and Invader) having keel cooling problems. Talk to your marine engineer friend about sizing the C channel to do double duty to act as a keel and to keep the main engine cool.
You need to make minimum 2 of optimum 3 watertight compartments in the hull. In shipping they call it MVZ. Main vertical zones. If you have a accident in the front of the boat, you have the opportunity to close of 1 of 3 “zones” to make your way home. Also think of installing automatic fire detection in the engine room. Maybe co2, inergen or 1230 fire protection fluid.
Good ideea with watertinght compartments, even more than two or three!
Imagine that you will need fuel, water, sewage tanks and so on...
Moreover, for an engine room compartment you should do some reinforcements. Maybe would be a bit cheaper to think ar some propulsion engines on deck, having Z-drive, in order to avoid stern-tubes, stern-tubes sealings, watertightness ...
But pls, first think first, just do some US measurements to the hull! Just to know how we stand.
Concerning that three fore keels, it's important to know on what waters you will sail. In case of shallow waters and grounding, those keels will make you a difficult life for maneuvering in the mud, but you'll be allowed to maneuver only fore and aft!
Maybe is a good ideea to consult some naval architects office for some strengtness and other specific calculations.
Think about it!
I'll revert sometimes
All the best!
😉
This should be top comment
@@HurtsEnd Thank you !
You crack me up!!!
Right at the end of this video you give us a 3sec blirp of a " new" boat....
I too, have a short attention span...
But I always look forward to seeing your video pop up.
Glad to see you're slimming down on your inventory....
Very interested in your new build.
As soon as you started talking about a single engine in your barge I kept saying. Bow thruster... Bow thruster...
Then you said it...
Yeah with a single stern drive you'll need it.
Frankly, even if you had twins you'd want a bow thruster. Don't rule out a stern thruster. Talk to your engineer about it....
He'll probably say you don't really need it, but I would consider it greatly.
In a river, with traffic, current, wind, and a large barge. You may be glad you have it.
Sooner or later you'll probably sale your first boat and move on the barge.... I would.
But you'll want a little sport boat for day trips and runs into town.
Think about a small crane to pick it up and set it or your barge....
Great video, can't wait to see how this works out...👍
Gday Crew,,,
I think the use of a pontoon for a conversion is a fantastic idea .
There are so many different ways it can be used ,,,and look at all that space , this is going to be a
Mega Cool project ,,
Respect
Is the existing deck a necessary structural member? Or can you make a lower main deck with tankage and storage below and then have a 7' to 8' cabin well below the max bridge clearance.
Good question
Sometimes the only way to learn and gain hands-on experience is by doing it at your own expense - If lucky as an apprentice or alternatively creating your own work to learn from ... Looking forward to seeing how you progress with your barge / house boat to be !
Where you end up using this vessel is extremely important for the design. You will have a lot of what is called 'windage'. Windage is equivalent to surface area exposed to wind. The design so far is most similar to a house boat. House boats are suitable for protected anchorages, rivers and safe waterways.
If you intend to take this boat anywhere with any significant wind or wave action, I would suggest consultation with an engineer. Also, is there a reason, besides complexity, that you're not lowering the deck to the bottom of the boat? If you did that you would significantly increase the maximum degree of stability, (the maximum angle of tilt before the boat tips over,) and reduce windage. You might even be able to turn it into a boat capable of limited ope ocean transits - especially if you were to pour lead ballast into the bilge channels.
I'm no expert, mind you. Spent time on boats. Sailed a little. Shipwrecked one. That's about it.
i hope he sees your comment
Im glad to see you kept the yacht. You have put a lot of time and labor into it and I have watched it from the beginning when you practically gutted it. Im interested in the barge but would like to see you finish the yacht and paint it. You have done an amazing job so far with the restoration. Looking forward to seeing both builds and what's in store for the future.
yes please paint her
Skills and knowledge are very useful for what you have planned with the new boat-s. 😀
Can't wait to see future updates! 😀
Many of these potons have been converted into houseboats in the Netherlands. I advise you to do this too. No matter what you try, you will never be able to convert this poton into a safe self-propelled craft. Currents and crosswinds cannot be overcome. If you get into bad weather with this, it will definitely go wrong, even on a river. But a good captain takes everything into account and never overestimates his ship. Do you still want to sail yourself: Go for outboard engines, preferably diesel because of safety, maintenance, better maneuverability and space saving. The best solution, do you have friends with a tow or push boat? Veel succes en geluk. Groeten uit Holland.🌷
love your projects! on your barge I would leave a walk way around the outside, for docking and working the locking lines. also ease of working on the outside of your boat.
The barge boat, two things to consider.
A stern drive, or Inboard Outboard (IO) are much more problematic than a straight shaft. Given the reduced reliability and increased maintenance of an IO over a conventional straight shaft, IO probably isn’t the best trade-offs choice.
Seems to me you might want a walkable gunwale on the sides of your new enclosure. Near water level access to large segments of the sides might aid in docking, mooring, and rafting with other boats.
Just sharing what came to mind.
I enjoy your channel and look forward to your future videos. 😎
Have you considered electric pod mounted POD Drives with infinite 360 travel? You would need solar panels and batteries, inverters etc.... I think you might be able to get financial help / sponsorship from manufacturers for this project !!!! THIS WOULD BE A REALLT COOL PROJECT AND I AM CERTAIN WOULD GENERATE A LOT OF VIEWS!!!
your frankness and sincerity is one of the funniest things about your videos. I fully agree;: you are right to have fun and raise experience. But - please - complete the renovation of the first boat, come on .... :)
Each week I never know what to expect.. but I Kno for very sure it will be fun... No matter where you go or what you buy an fix.... I WILL be there to watch you do it!! I really do enjoy your style an approach... Looking forward to the next journey.. can't wait to see what you do to the barge.. So far everything you've planned out looks doable for sure!! See you next week my friend.. Zoom , zoom what's that???? ✌🏼💗😊❣️
Hi from UK . I would cut the deck and use the existing deck in the bulge this way you can reduce the head room and cover it with marine ply . Under the side decks fit your tanks for water, fuel wastewater easy to get at and instal .Look at a UK narrow boat for idea's .
I’m the exact same way. And I enjoy every minute of it. My wife thinks I’m crazy. Lol
very nice thanks for sharing
love the story
You should keep a walkway around the edge. Otherwise mooring will be a pain.
Wow very exiting project. I am not a marine engineer but I think you can get more head room inside, by lowering your deck inside the boat hull. I mean not the entire deck but some part of it.
You may consider welding protection to the bottom for the plastic stern and bow thrusters. In my part of the world there are still very large trees floating in the Salt Water. ( up to 2 Meters) IF, you encountered one, It would certainly compromise your plastic thruster housings. The trees in Germany are probably not as large, but have the potential to do considerable damage. You have been doing well in your boat projects, this one will still a challenge.
in the Netherlands many of these pontoons are either attic barge or deck barge in Amsterdam and Zaandam they are still used for transporting cocoa, coffee etc in bags. good luck with building,, don't make it too high because of stability, keep weight low,,
I reckon this vessel will make one hell of a party boat! All weathers too if you get the superstructure and covering right. Good luck!
You're doing great! I've been watching from the start and I look forward to seeing how this project turns put. This is just a though, but here is a suggestion: Using a stern drive is smart, especially if you install a stringer mounted drive system, it will keep the propulsion stresses off the transom, probably much easier in this case since you have to modify and build that. The engine torque and propulsion stresses become part of the motor mounts, that is easier to build and strengthen in this case. Parts and good used/rebuilt drives are available online (ebay, Amazon) and can accommodate a wide selection of engines. I don't know how much horsepower you want but it seems that a V-8 at around 225 or better would do a great job. The most difficult part I see here is finding long steering and throttle cables if the helm is to be put up front. It's just a suggestion, you have so many options here, I wish you the best.
Consider looking at how American houseboats are engined. They'll often have two relatively small outboard motors on the stern of the boat, and this makes for a very maneuverable boat.
Glad I'm not the only compulsive shopper for big things 🤣🤣🤣
Canal barges have flat bottoms to deal with depth limitations of the canals they navigate. If you add underwater appendages for drive and rudder, try to keep these minimal. Options include putting the screw into a tunnel, or maybe even considering a Schotte SPJ drive unit, if you can find one at a decent price. These are flush with the bottom; I guess that would also help with manoeuvering.
Hi i Am from the island of Aruba.keep donig what you like to do 😃
If you are looking at putting in bow thrusters, due to the length of the vessel, l would look at putting in stern thrusters; this will give greater mobility, especially when moving to a mooring.
Enjoy all of your videos. Appreciate your time to make them. The walk around path at the stern would seem to make access to docks, boarding and the water line more easy than the elevated section extending all the way to the sides and stern. The additional height above the water could be an hindrance. Look forward to what design and plans are in the future.
This looks like a massive job,but I wish you all the best.
why not cut out the barge to fit your first boat to slip into the hull this would cut your cost in half and you will be able to use your boat in the build. you can add winches to the barge to secure your first boat and rubber pads to cushion your hull. as well as use the drop pole as a anchoring for both. feel free to contact me id be glad to collaborate with you on the build i have more than 12 years experience working with inland barges and their layouts. cheers mate.
Oh! I forgot to tell ya when you were doing it but when ya plasma cut stainless steel you need to use shielding gas instead of compressed air. There’s a fitting and guage for the tank. The gas, 70/30 argon (or chose any inert gas ya like argon is cheapest) anyway 70%argon 30% carbon dioxide. Should help your next stainless project. Stainless steel has a lot of carbon in it when made.
Bravo! Great plans! Looking forward to the next project!
@My First Boat You should change the name of your channel to "my first 10 boats" haha greetings from Freiburg
Oh man, if you made it look like a mini cargo ship that would be bad ass
Lol I was wondering wtf you were going to do with the little boats hahah made the right choice
I figured the barge was going to be a floating house to live on. Adding an engine + steering is a real project and you will need continuing professional advice and an upgrade of your fabrication skills (your electronic skills are super). To many places on the yacht are not full repairs but just good enough to slap on some paint and move on. The barge will require a higher skill level. Good luck!
is there anything, structurally speaking, that is preventing you from taking advantage of the barge's freeboard height (ie, from the waterline up to the sheerline) and incorporate that in the final design height? in other words, you could lower the current floor of the barge down to the actual hull. (obviously not completely as you want a nice layer between you and the water) . this way you end up with a much more streamlined boat, much lower in height, lower CG (inot that it matters that much, it is a steel barge after all!). it would force you to plan carefully the location of tanks, and any other large items in order to "mould" the furniture around, but with such a large area, even if you have a tank that its, say, 150mm high but spanning a large area, you get alot ot tankage (both for diesel and water). this is an incredible project. so much potential in a white canvas!
A low CG would still be advantageous, not really in moving fast or making quick maneuvers, but it does help in preventing the boat from tipping over since it is long and narrow.
Try to add spud poles so you don't need to anchor all the time.that makes life a lot beter
Thats too funny... I sold off all the other boats to free up money...then .... I bought a new boat.
I like the plans and the bow thrusters will be a huge help.
This channel is awesome. You make so great achievements.
Please keep it up, but also, keep doing what YOU like to do. Regards from Brazil!
Thanks for the explanations! I get it and will watch your next project with anticipation.
Center bar should extend toward the aft to provide stability and fluid flow. js Like a skeg on a surfboard
I would suggest a flat roof for more living area. If you are set on curved roof trusses, you should do a search for pre fab structural steel before you set the dimensions.
I would think twice about the Stern drive they're very difficult to clean They're better kept on a trailer
I agree about the stern dive, they also maintenance requirements that involve the removal of the leg. A straight shaft is simple and robust. I have also seen outboard installations where the outboard is not on the stern but in a compartment with a removable cover, and can be rotated horizontal to access the prop.
My greatest concern would be the ability to actually see in front of your boat at a sufficient range to allow manoverabily when docking, unless fitted with cameras on the bow
Wow! I've binge-watched all of your videos in the last two days. What an achievement already. When it started, I thought "there is a lot of progress for a couple of weekends" but quickly it transformed into a "wait, is this a full-time job now?". So that would be my question: how many hours were already put into your "first" boat. Also what is the financial invest here (I guess there will be a breakdown of cost once the project is officially complete).
Is the Bayliner a special edition? It really looks nice especially with the Coupé style canvas. Love it.
I have a ton of questions to ask, but one last one for today: how is the mooring handled in Berlin? I guess you can't just chose a spot and attach a platform and one, two, three… boats. What is the monthly fee and how is the process of getting a spot.
Ok, enough for now, can't wait for the next videos.
Some times All the Pleasure Is derived from Climbing the Mountain
Me
man i really like what you do .......!
Not an expert by any means, but I would question how effective a bow thruster would be that type of hull/waterline combo. Also means you would have to have a tunnel for the thrust wash through the entire beam... which would also make mounting and maintenance hard. Maybe a front-mounted outboard with a extended leg would be better (ugly though...) - all the best with build!
Set the thing up with hydraulic drive on main propulsion and thrusters and you can run the whole shooting match off one power pack making the main engine a big hydraulic pump. Could be diesel or electric or whatever you like. A used excavator would yield a lot of components. Ha, just noticed the Mariner 30hp at the end of the clip. That is a Tohatsu engine made in the Japanese factory. I have an identical one badged Mercury. It will push the (3.1metre, 46 kg) inflatable tender to my launch at 36 knots under the right conditions when it’s not trying to kill me which is most of the time. Good times.
I do you have the dimensions of your barge or a link to download your sketchup file ?
I would like try to help you for create 3d plans
Interesting concept. Your initial plan shows the new superstructure extending out to the edge of the hull on both sides. How will you access the sides when you come alongside a dock or another boat and need to tie up in the middle of the boat? Also, the barge you bought looks rusted in places. Will you check the thickness of all the plating? You could have some thin places that need to be cut out or reinforced somehow.
Nearly lost it again, anyway, I have a floatplane that look, sounds and flies like real, cockpit roof slides shut or open, water drips off the pontoons when rising from the water after leaving a wake so if you imagine the various shapes needed for the wings, rudder, elevators, propellor, radial engine, pilot's and passenger's seats, windscreen, canopy, radio antenna, pontoons with little wheels sticking out the bottom you can rest assured you can build anything with millimeter precission.
I also have a blue water race boat with two Ferrari V12s in the back with one facing forward and the other backwards to counter rotate the racing props that appear to spin and makes lots of noise etc.
I came across it when trying to learn Autocad and found Second Life was the answer.
It’s all about our journey
exciting plans, lotsa fun ahead.
with a stern leg dont you have to haul out more often to maintain it? surely thats a big effort and cost with a barge??
I wonder if 2 jet drives would produce more propulsion to get this moving better than jus a propeller
Your doing it Wright👍Always move on!👍 don't sit in one Place, it's Degradation of Brains.
Love your boating odyssey! Keep up the good work. So are you turning the barge into a houseboat and then selling it? That might be a good plan. Best wishes from Savannah, GA!
Just a comment, but if you have that much hull weight and length you really should think about a shaft motor instead of a stern drive. Know costs more money with steering and all, but stern drive is going to be hard to handle turning. Will put much stress on stern drive. Just a thought
Did you turn a profit on your other flips? Why a stern drive rather than welding in a stuffing box and keeping the hull shape the same and just adding a large rudder? The benefit of the stern drive is that you can trim it for a planing hull. Your barge will never plane. My guess is you found a scrap boat with a good stern drive system, but If you look around I bet you could find something similar to cut up with all the running gear you'd need as a full inboard. The stern drive has a lot of moving parts to transfer over, and they're high maintenance.
Perhaps a water jet propulsion drive like a jet ski has would be a better solution
Why don't you buy a container and well it to the deck, then you have the same square shape as into your design. It might give you the possibility to walk alongside from aft to bow.
with big boats comes big potential for trouble. Have you gotten quotes on insurance? A boat that size that sinks or becomes disabled in an active waterway can cost you tens of thousands, and up. Per day. A twenty five knot wind to beam to say nothing of a tide while at anchor is going to produce forces orders of magnitude above what you’ve experienced. Look at the size of the boats that push or tow barges of this size and think about why they’re the size they are. What are the moorage costs, and will you be restricted in how long it can be left at anchor? Many jurisdictions limit larger boats to 72 hours, but turn a blind eye to smaller pleasure craft. ‘
Please, please add lots of watertight bulkheads below the deck for safety.
I thought you had something with that first boat and looked forward to watching you enjoy it this new boating season. Since you said goodby to it and the rest, I must say goodbye to you.
He did not sell the first boat
Your old boats were all so "pretty", such classic lines. That is what got me interested in following your adventures. The barge is a brute - are you going to turn it from sow's ear to silk purse or will it still look like a piece of brutalist architecture when converted?
Interesting. Will you install an electric propulsion system or will it be an internal combustion engine?
I lost the sound after 5 mins, so I apologize if you have answered this concern I have. I am a Naval Commander in theRCN, not a naval architect. The concern I have is stability, will you be taking into account the possibility of being top heavy.🇨🇦
Nice content !
You could buy an tv and put on top of there
A party boat might be an outcome but then I imagine the health and safety regulations etc would be tough and costly to achieve...
Keep in consideration the idea of a full electric boat.
For a slow, fresh water barge is the best solution: silent, simple, no maintenance, no smoke, no smell, no oil and diesel floating around and with a giant, flat roof for panels, also self-sufficient.
These are "hybrid" narrowboats, but with your big roof maybe you don't need to have a big generator.
😉
th-cam.com/video/A5jsb72nCRE/w-d-xo.html
What about the bridge
Is this a river/lake boat or an ocean boat?
Mach weiter ...
Caligula’s barge?
Simplify your life and don't build any cabins from scratch for living quarters - install a large modern travel trailer/camper right onto your deck. All the comforts and conveniences of a home in one package, including electrical, plumbing, fresh/grey/black water tanks, HVAC, e.t.c.
Please note that when designing this barge to be powered it will probably need to comply with directive 2006/87/EG of our overlords.
i cant wait, i dont care if you sold the rest of the boats other than the main
Isn't this technically your 4th boat? :)
Seen this already??? 👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
@@geams thanks 🇬🇧🇬🇧👍👍
You need a second channel... "My First Fleet"
He sold the main boat?
No, he still owns the yacht.
I was just wondering if you were going to bring the walls in a little so you can walk the gunnels? If you had to get to the bow or stern in a hurry wouldn't that be hard to do going through the boat or over, up and down stairs?
Was thinking the exact same thing.
not a bad idea. also might make for a little less stressful docking/boarding
I concur, have some room along the gunnels to walk on. Also, the raised bridge above the engine bay would make an excellent steering position for the outside because of visibility, and also because all of the cable runs going toward it would be very short.
Great plans and decisions! Me too, I bought 7 boats in 9 years. Just sold my last extra a month ago and now we only have our steel cruiser similar to yours which is a keeper. A lot of money spent but the things I learned from them... priceless!!! All the best.
Not to brag but I bought 6 boats in one YEAR! Current count is 7. But just like you it seems that there is always one that stays with us throughout! My wife calls it a sickness, I just say I'm a collector!
Hi , I really like your project, I just finished a very similar project in France, with the very same hull, but 22 m long. I mounted an azimut pod on it with an 190 hp engine, works really well. Good luck on this one.
What ever you do is a decision and watching you project also give us pleasure, i love your courage bro.
LOL, that ending :) priceless
For many of us, It's not the destination but the journey
I'd leave some surface deck open on the sides, enough to at least work your way around the outside, rather than have the walls all the way to the side. The amount of interior floor space you'll lose is minimal.
Agreed. Will make tying mooring lines and deck to quay access easier. Also positioning and tying fenders.
Have you considered mounting 4 stroke outboard engines in an interior engine well ? They would operate like pod drives yet they would be protected from the elements. They could be easily raised /lowered and could be easily be removed for service if needed. This design if placed properly could eliminate the need for bow thrusters.
diesel inboard with shaft drive is the first choice or four stroke outboard . stern drives are problematic in many ways .
Thank you for the video. I am curious: why the decision to add a stern drive unit? Maintenance costs for stern drive units are much higher, compared to shaft driven propulsion, as you have to service the leg (outdrive) and the engine, essentially doubling your costs and maintenance. I have not owned one with a stern drive, but I am interested in hearing more about your choice. Thank you and all the best from the UK.
Agreed. I would stick with a shaft drive. Stern drives are more maneuverable though.
@@johnh8268 i would go with 2 outboards and be done with it
An Outboard seems like the best option imo. Especially if you are doing bow thrusters. It would eliminate the need for the engine room and give you more living space. Less material, less labor is win. You could even use all electric motors and cover the roof with solar panels, have a small generator for backup and a large battery bank. However you go, love your work and all of your projects.
@@supersevenn Yes that makes sense to me... I wonder why he pick a stern drive... must be in his engine choice
I need help understanding why a stern drive?
Hilarious ending 😂
In my mind, the barge has to become the ultimate floating workshop! Table saw, band saw, chop box, planer, joiner, sanders, drill press, welders, dust collection system, workbenches galore, etc. And, of course, a shit-ton of solar on that huge roof and a massive bank of LiFePO4 batteries to collect and deliver all that energy. Looking good mate!
Cheers, Sev
I dig it!
Cheers, Seb ;)
cool plans!!! really looking forward to join you on the adventure. I am literally spilling my drink on the last shot 😂😂😂
I would only cover half of it and make the rest i to a workshop. You have a boat to live on and a boat to plar with.. add a hoist or a davit crane on the side or fron center to load and unload from other boats or the water..