Rlaarlo AK 917 - Initial Runs, Battery Testing,and Problems
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 มิ.ย. 2024
- The new 1/10 speedrun vehicle from Rlaarlo...the AK-917, with a body based on the famed Gulf Racing Porsche 917...is finally available. Yes, there are slight delays in getting them shipped, but, we have many of the TH-camrs who received the pre-production 'testing' units to thank for that...and, I DO mean "thank". They uncovered problems, to which Rlaarlo used the feedback to make last-minute changes/improvements to the AK-917...so, to anyone who has ordered on, but not received, please, do NOT complain (I've read more than enough of these (baseless) complaints in forums, and on other TH-camr's channel comments).
So, what do I think of the AK-917. Truthfully, it is WELL-WORTH the wait. This thing is FANTASTIC. There are several larger-scale speedrun vehicles available, so it's great to finally have a 1/10 scale vehicle designed specifically as a speedrun car. For detailedd information on the Rlaarlo AK-917, you can find it here:
rlaarlo.com/pages/ak-917
And...if you haven't already ordered one, and want to get one for yourself, you can order them here:
rlaarlo.com/collections/ak-91...
Prices aren't as low as they were for the "pre-order special"...but, they are still quite good. The rollers are $200 for the aluminum, and $224 for the carbon fiber. As for the RTRs, they are $240 (aluminum, brushed), $320 (brushless, aluminum), and $400 (brushless, carbon fiber). Additionally, all replacement and upgrade parts are on sale through the end (July 6) of the Global Speedrun Challenge.
rlaarlo.com/collections/rlaar...
So...what you waiting for...the end of the world? Get yours, now...before the the sale prices end.
Ordered my Metal Brushless April 4, just received it today May 8th in Toronto, Canada. Nice review! Just subscribed!
Thank you. Hope you enjoy it. Be sure to check the tightness of all screws going into plastic, and double check all screws going into metal have Loctite. Today & tomorrow, I'm going over the entire vehicle, looking for any other problems...hope to have video very soon pointing out any discovered problems, as well as recommended upgrades.
@@ninthislandrc I would like to see that vid, thanks
@@mavicmaltarc My plan was to start working on that today. Unfortunately, work called...plus, I'm working the next several days...so, filming will have to hold off until Sunday. Hopefully, I'll be able to get the video edited & uploaded by next Monday or Tuesday.
@@ninthislandrc No worries bud! Thats life, looking forward to it!
Okay, thanks. I am but allowed to drilling holes in the chassis. I have a spare chassis If I have to start over 😂. I just wanted a little more confidence I understood the choices for a motor mount before my purchase. Thank you!
Awesome runs, great idea with the bat packs! I get tired of “who can go faster” and the review was good! Subbed #100
Glad you enjoyed it...and, I completely understand what you mean. While almost everyone else with the AK-917 has been focused on "how fast can I make it", I just wanted to cover something 'different'. Do RC decided to go a somewhat similar route in his video, showing the AK-917 used as a 'basher', as opposed to a 'speedrun' car. Granted, I do plan to go the speedrunner route with this car, but only mildly so. I intend on getting a second...a roller...and using that to build-up a more purpose-driven speedrun car.
That’s all good ideas, can’t wait to see your progress! Happy RCing my friend!
Man, this looks good. Wasn't sure if it was going to be worth it, or garbage, based on the pre-sale prices, but from what I've seen so far, it seems to be a good buy. Just might have to get me one.
Trust me when I say, "It's more than worth it." Yes, the pre-sale prices seemed a bit on the questionable side...but, this is one of those rare cases where you're getting more than what you paid for. In all probability, I'll be ordering a second, albeit a roller. Thinking of keeping this one running the stock body (will get a clear body, and do it up Red Bull style), but will upgrade certain parts...might even stick with Rlaarlo electronics. Then, as for the roller, who knows how that one will eventually end up...not sure if it'll be running Castle or Hobbywing, but those are the two most probable.
@@ninthislandrc hi bro, were do you plug in those connectors for the lights and fa coming from the bodyshell??
thanks man,
@@1521joe Honestly, I never bothered trying to find out. The only "extra" I left installed is the body-mounted fan, which you can plug into any open port on the 6-channel side (ie. Channels 4, 5 or 6). As for the headlights, my best suggestion is to just try them in the posts on the other side, and I'm sure you'll discover which port they belong being plugged into.
As "cool" as the lighting is, my 'intent' for this car is as a speedrun car, not a basher. So, I've removed all of the lighting from the chassis, as well as the body...lighter, less power draw on the battery, and less of a wiring 'spaghetti'. Besides, as I'll be replacing the electronics (including Rx) with "other stuff", the lighting would no longer work as Rlaarlo intended...so, no point in keeping the lights. However...as the other electronics will end up finding their way into another vehicle, I could find a way of incorporating the AK-917's LEDs into that vehicle.
@@ninthislandrc
ok, thanks man. much appreciated, + good luck with the AK 917
I found the GULF decals and ordered a few. I can’t wait to get them!
I have them in a few different scales. Quality of the decals is extremely good. I first ordered from that seller (even before he changed the business name) approx 2yrs ago, and have placed a few orders since.
Another subject. Do you know what motor mounts work to upgrade the Rlaarlo to a TP4040? The TP motor face is too wide and the screws are larger than the Rlaarlo adj. motor Mount. Raz used a TP4040 motor in the build where he got 170 on a single 4s battery. He showed lots of pictures of the motor Mount which is red but I can’t make out the brand? I appreciate your help if you have an idea!
@@GregoryMcGehee-ex3cl If I remember correctly, he used the a Hobao GTE2 motor mount. North Rlaarlo motor mounts only allow a 36mm can motor. However, in using the Hobao motor mount, you will have to drill & countersink additional holes in the chassis. In order to use anything larger than a 36mm motor mount, you will have no choice but to modify the chassis.
C rating keeps esc from browning out. I have never noticed a larger punch with c rating but I have noticed smoother and continues power band with higher c ratings
As I mentioned, most people understand the connection between battery & ESC incorrectly...you seem to understand it correctly. Most people think it's all about what a battery can "push", when the truth is that it's about what the ESC can "pull". If you take an ESC with a low Amp rating, and plug in a 200C drag racing battery, the ESC is still going to only pull what it 'needs'. Conversely, if you connect a low-output (ie. low C-rated) battery to an ESC having a higher Amp rating, then you end up "starving" the ESC. Truth-be-told, despite what I said in the video, I already had a feeling the 75C battery wouldn't produce better results...at least, not with the stock ESC & motor. Now, with a higher-quality ESC, the results would be better...although, by how much, that is yet to be determined. That will have to wait until I start building the second car (which hasn't been ordered yet).
Dude nice content but what’s up with the screen going black every time you talk on your inside camera? At least it didn’t do it when you went for the run
Thanks for the input. Honestly, I think that's an editing glitch from Premiere exporting the video. I didn't see it when previewing the video before exporting.
Your car is running nice & straight, I have seen some testers having problems with the car not running very straight & twitchy. Did you adjust the suspension/steering/camber/toe in or out, to get the car running straight, or is the car stock out the box on these settings. It is a lovely looking car, my pre sale metal roller arrived last week. Im also expecting my pre sale carbon roller to arrive over the next week or so.
It is truly that straight...there is virtually no slop in the steering. The only adjustment I made was to the steering trim (on the transmitter). It is known that Rlaarlo made last-minute changes to the production units before shipping, and things related to the steering could have been asking those changes. Regarding the videos done by testers (ie. any video produced more then a week ago), those were all using pre-production units...in other words, cars running hardware & electronics before the changes were made.
This is a primary part (and reason) of the delay in shipping the production units...Rlaarlo had been taking in all the feedback from those earlier testers, and using the info they provided to make many of the changes they made. Admittedly, while the changes have improved the car, there are still improvements that can be made, to which I've already been providing said info to Rlaarlo. 🤙🏼
Nice i am going to get me one of these new sub here keep up the cool videos
Thanks...and, I'm certainly trying. Have this little things called a "work schedule" that changes on a daily basis...lol 🤙🏼
@@ninthislandrc yea tell me about it I work for the Pentagon and have a channel too
Hi I got my CF RTR on may 4 great car very fun good speed to start with. .But 3 of the problems pointed out by by the youtubres were not fixed on mine and yours . The antenna wire rapped up with the servo and esc wires and rear wheel rub and loose esc .
Glad you're enjoying yours...even with problems. Regarding the ESC, mine is pretty solid to the chassis...yes, it moves slightly, but no more than any other ESC held in place with thick double-sides tape. As for the tires rubbing, I haven't had any problem there, either. There's a very slight (approx 0.5-0.75in in length) tire rub on the body just about the front-left wheel, but I'm pretty certain that happened during one (or both) of the times I hit the manhole cover.
As for the antenna, this one is, admittedly, a bit "interesting". If I remember correctly, in the pre-production units, the antenna was loose (just like some of the other wires). I could be wrong...but, I'm thinking, them 'wrapping' it into the same bundle of wires going to the receiver was part of their "solution" to the wiring problem. However, the way they've done this is not a problem...allow me to explain. When it comes to RC antenna, only the final portion (usually, the last inch, or so) is the actual antenna. Everything between the tip (ie. the section actually receiving data from the Tx) & Rx case is just "antenna lead wire", and plays no part in receiving data from the Tx...it just 'runs' the received data to the Rx. When you look at a receiver's antenna, there are three sections - the 'lead', the antenna base, and the antenna. The 'base' is the hard metal piece between the 'lead' & 'antenna'. I've never put this to the test...but, if you were to cut a section from the lead, and solder the lead back together, the Rx should still work exactly the same. Likewise, if you cut the lead, and soldered a longer wire between where you cut, again, the Rx should work properly. In other words, what Rlaarlo did should have no effect, as long as the actual antenna isn't damaged, and it's in a fairly upright position.
Hopefully, this helps you understand that there's no "problem" with the AK-917's antenna. However, there ARE other problems, which I am currently discovering. I hope to have a video of very soon, covering these problems, as well as recommended upgrades for speedrunners. To give you, and anyone else reading this, a quick 'heads up', I HIGHLY recommend checking the ring & pinion gears of both diffs. I know another TH-camr checked the front diff, and found that the ring gear had an adequate amount of grease on it...but, in my checking the rear diff (I haven't gotten to the front, yet), I discovered that it was completely devoid of any grease.
@@ninthislandrc Hi thanks for the info but I will still keep the antenna wire away from other wires.Along the top brace with the last 3 in bent up .If you fully compress the raer shock the the rear tire rubs .All easy to fix so far I love this car cant wait for all the rest of my order cfc roller and a bunch of parts.
@@benabnjm4828 First, sorry about the accidental "thumbs down"...just as with texting on a phone, other "typos" can also happen. Thankfully, I've 'corrected' it.
As for the shocks, I've already come up with a solution (again, haven't experienced any rubbing, but have another reason for "fixing" it)...actually, two solutions. The first (which I am keeping as a 'backup') is to add short lengths of tubing to the shock shafts, preventing the shocks from fully compressing. This is standard practice in many speedrun & drag cars. It not only shortens the "fully compressed" length, but also provides some cushioning when the shock compresses. The second...what I've already done...was to swap shocks from my 4Tec 3.0. As chance has it, the extended length of both vehicle's shocks are the same...but, whereas the AK-917's shocks have 11.25mm of compression, the 4Tec's shocks have only 6.5mm (which would, obviously, prevent any rubbing). What led to this wasn't so much the rubbing/compression-length, but the 2-piece plastic-aluminum design of the AK-917 shocks. If you've watched AK-917 videos from other TH-cam channels, something you might have seen are the plastic portion of the shock caps breaking. As my 4Tec shocks have 1-piece aluminum caps, that is what initially led me to the idea of possibly using them. It was only after measuring them that I discovered they were of the same extended length.
Speaking of plastic, many have wondered if the different colored plastics are of different compounds...and, in truth, I believe they are. But, whereas some think there's two different plastic compounds, I believe there might actually be three. In feeling the black plastic parts, I detected what feels like two different compounds - one more of a 'standard' (albeit, high-quality) plastic, and the other of a carbon-reinforced plastic. Now, I could be wrong...the 'standard' black plastic, and gray plastic, could be of the same compound...but, there definitely appears to be some parts using carbon-reinforced plastic.
Stay tuned...more to come..........
@@ninthislandrc Hi more good info I got back into rc car last year after 30 some years back then 40 mph was fast . Last year I got a wltoys 124016 that now dose 60 to 70 mph now I have 2 of them .This year I got a snrc r3g that is now 200 by 400 by 4 mm chassis so far I have got it to 69.5 mph on 2s .Then the AK917 came out cf rtr ordered in the first 500 wish they sent my full order . I want the other motor mount before I change spur gear .100 mph will be fast enough .Maybe.
Looks awesome, great video! I was wondering if the fan sucks in cold air into the car, or does it push hot air out of the car? I took my fan off and wasn't paying attention to the fan direction. Thanks!
I believe it blows out from the videos I've seen
The way mine is installed from the factory, is blows air downward, towards the chassis. However, what jeffdavis mentioned would be the way it SHOULD have been installed. Believe it, or not, not only did I never notice this before, but I never ever thought of checking until you asked.
In other words, the factory installed fan on mine is installed in the 'wrong' direction...it SHOULD have been positioned to blow air out. However, I can also see thought process in installing it how they installed it, as they were probably thinking it's blowing air towards the motor, to help cool the motor...except that that would have required the motor to be centered directly below the fan, which it is not. I probably never thought about checking, because I installed a heatsink & dual fan directly on the motor. I will be switching that fan, so as to blow air upward, and out, as it should have been in the first place.
subbed + liked
Hey! Can you say where the GULF sticker came from and if they can be purchased? I have 3 of these cars and would like a couple! Thank you!
Decals were purchased from an eBay seller: MakeLettering
He makes a considerable variety of decals, in multiple scales ranging from 1/24 to 1/7.
Thanks buddy!!!
What I do not understand is why didn't Riaarlo use a gyro ???
Honestly, haven't got the slightest clue. It is possible that none of the Dumbo RC receivers having the other features they required (ie. the inputs for the lights) had gyro. They certainly weren't about to go work a stand-along gyro plugged into the Rx (additional cost). Thankfully, for those wanting to stick with the provided Tx & Rx, there are plenty of gyro choices...or, you can do what most do, which is to switch to a different Tx & Rx. 🤙🏼
What other decals do you like?
Red Bull 😁
Thing is, I have this custom "Red Bull" theme that I'm starting to apply to add many of my vehicles & vessels as possible.