How To Heat Treat / Temper Hand Tools & More!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2017
- Learn how to easily and properly heat treat / temper hand tools, small knives, etc. All that's required is a propane or MAPP gas torch, cold water(some prefer motor oil), mill file or bench grinder, and 220 grit sandpaper or a small wire brush. Enjoy the video!
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There are various techniques used to heat treat steel. The method outlined in this video is a "Basic" method which has always worked fine for me. You don't have to use "cold" water, "cool" water is just fine. Many people prefer motor oil instead of water because it reduces inner soft spots as well as the chance of cracking the steel. Many also prefer to allow the steel to be slowly air cool after the tempering process, instead of quenching in cool water.
Thanks for watching
electronicsNmore The medium used to cool or quench shouldn’t merely be a preference. What is used is dictated by the type of tool steel you are treating. W1 would be quenched in water as you illustrate. And who knows what a screwdriver is made of on any given brand right? O1 which is what I typically make punches from, would be quenched in oil. I use hydraulic fluid as it doesn’t stink as bad or scale as much. Not trying to be critical, just offering a little info. Excellent video by the way.
Tim is correct. There are water hardening, oil hardening and air hardening steels. Using the wrong method results in not only sub-optimal treating, but possibly a damaged crystal structure, which could result in cracks. If you use oil hardening steel, you shouldn’t use motor oil, because the additives can cause various problems. Use quenching oil, which also has the proper qualities.
You don’t have to (usually shouldn’t) quench after tempering, but the temperature should be brought down slowly.
@@awashburn6944: my (lay) understanding (so take this with a grain of salt) is basically that the ideal is to heat slowly and to a (relative to the next option) lower temperature, and cool slowly (no quenching). But because it may be difficult to do a carefully-controlled heat (especially with comparatively primitive methods), another option is to "over"-heat the metal (for the given amount of tempering desired), but cool it quickly, to avoid other side effects of being at that heat. For tools without the (as shown here) plastic (or wooden) handles, that are comprised only of the steel, a modern option is often to heat in a (toaster or regular) oven, which can (sometimes) give relatively controlled heating, and thus not require quenching. Other methods of slowing the heating (e.g. heating in a bed of brass shavings, by heating the container the shavings are in, rather than heating the tool directly) would presumably also not require quenching. Check out the Clickspring channel for some beautiful examples of that (warning: he takes all this to a whole other level; be prepared for some awe), including using a very careful process to get beautiful aesthetic tempering. For practical use, of course, this isn't required... and another common method is to over-heat one part of the tool to let heat slowly seep into the actual tooling surface(s), thus giving greater control where it's needed, even while using relatively crude heat sources (edit: as shown in this video, as well; see 9:17 and 10:17). A nice example of that (from Clickspring) is here: th-cam.com/video/FFWSaffwZOo/w-d-xo.html ... and here's the aesthetic version: th-cam.com/video/NhjiIPohUyw/w-d-xo.html
You might also find this video about case hardening to be of interest: th-cam.com/video/V_Mp1fNzIT8/w-d-xo.html
And/or find useful information in some or all of the following:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_(metallurgy)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardening_(metallurgy)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quenching
@@awashburn6944 oh, and I just realized I kinda didn't actually answer your direct question: the reason one "shouldn't" quench is because that quenching creates stresses, and the a significant portion of the point of tempering is to reduce stress.
Aaron Washburn: interesting stuff; thanks!
On that last point, it could also come from folks conflating the behavior of glass??!? With less-than-perfect annealing, glass can (I'm told, anyway) spontaneously shatter even years later just from the thermal gradients of daily life. I suppose especially if left near a window. I don't expect steels would be likely to do this, though perhaps if they were especially brittle???!? -- certainly the not quenched long enough scenario creates a plausible avenue for it, though that would still be within a short time, rather than spontaneous cracking later... I guess? :)
🔥 cracking video...! Takes me 50yrs back in time, when our Metalwork teacher showed us this method. As a kid it was so inspirational. Bring back woodworking and metalworking to school curriculums.!!!!!
Hi woo. Is it necessary start out using that specific type of steel?
I wanted to temper a Shovel, so I got it red hot and dunked it into the toilet. The toilet then shattered and we had a small flood. Thanks ElectronicsNmore!
Dumbass....
I like the way this guy talks. Very professional and clear to me. If you don't like it kick rocks.
Thank you! Nice to see that there are viewers out there that stick up for me. The guy is a troll and a moron.
I think he's teacher.
I had to listen a bunch of annoying weenies to get to this video, finally a a dude without a vag getting to the point. It’s appreciated brother!
Congratulations on the marriage 💑
@@pemulungrosok2832 damn!... I've never met teacher! ....Who's teacher by the way?
What a great demonstration. I finally understand this process. Thank you so much
Very nice tutorial. Something I have always wanted to try. Now I feel confident I can do it. Thank You.
Nice clear and easy to follow explanation. I have watched several videos where the various colors are explained but this video is the only on that makes sense. Thank you for sharing.
emadigan523 makes sense, but has a number of major errors.
@@melgross Like what?
I'm not trying to be a know it all, or anything, just a suggestion. The most heat from fire, torches, oxi-acetylene, map-gas etc. Is at the tip of any open flame, so a half in above the tip will heat up any object so much quicker, and will save you a lot of fuel, and hard earned money over a life time. Try it you'll never go back to jamming it into the blue part of the flame again. Time is money especially in business. Thanks for sharing, done nice and simple. The old kiss method. Again Thanks for the knowledge and sharing it. Andy T Barrie Ontario, 🇨🇦
Excellent explanation.
Thank you indeed .I learned soft soldring stainless steel from one of your videos .what an interesting time we live in .thanks again.🙏
Impressively good explanation - as unadorned and crystal clear as anyone could wish for, thank you 🙂
I enjoyed every second of the video. Your explanation was wel detailed and very clear. I can now repair my 48 year old Craftsman tools to which I am very attached! Thank you for that!
That was perfect! This video was a great investment, thank you for making such a unique and informative instructional/ educational video
thanks a million! i had to do my D&T homework and you saved me! plus i like the way you talk, its quite concise and satisfying
Very interesting and resourceful channel. Thanks
Thank you! I have many excellent videos on this channel. Be sure to check out my video playlists, rate thumbs up, and share.
Great video! Thank you. This advice aided me in making a little tool I needed and saved me about $45 VS buying one. The tool I made withstood the job no problem.
Glad it helped Chris! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing if you like a wide range of helpful and informative videos, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Hi Great video
That is exactly has I was taught at Mather & Platt , Manchester ,England ,in my apprenticeship . The chisel I made was the only one that didn't break when the instructor tested them They also taught me to case harden low carbon steel by heating to cherry red then sprinkling case hardening compound on the area to be hardened then quench. Other carbon source's options are bone, horse hoof clippings and even human nail clippings , any source of carbon . No tempering is needed because the steel is soft where no carbon has been diposited
I've used that case hardening compound in the past. :-) Glad you enjoyed the video. Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists, rate thumbs up, share my channel with others, and subscribe. Thank You!
thanks for that, really needed it and you've explained it perfectly
Excellent demonstration, particularly the tempering. Thank you very much.
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Very professional and clear. Keep that way.
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What a great video!
Thanks a mil, very clear instructions. I will be using this methodology on my tools.
You're welcome! There are a few methods, this was the simplest. I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others. Thank You
thanks for the tip, im trying to make bits for my dremel and the tips i made are like made out of dough
Wow! You've responded to so many comments!
Much appreciated!
Great videos!
Glad you enjoy them Bryan!
I've spent the last three hours trying to find a video teaching how to heat treat knives, but everything has been gibberish until now, this video was awesome so thankyou
Ethan Elzinga don’t heat treat your knives this way unless you are ABSOLUTELY SURE that it’s a water quenching steel. If it’s not you will introduce micro fractures to the steel and will destroy them.
Giggidygiggidy interesting... and how do you find that out?
Sir Dewd each steel you buy, or find for that matter has a specific way to heat treat it. Some are oil quench, some water, and some air. There’s a lot of information out there if you look for it. There’s even an app for it called Heat treat that gives all the information on just about every steel you could ever think of.
How did he find that out? I don’t know how he knows it, but if people stop being lazy, they could, you know, look it up! Find a publication, or Wikipedia, or a channel on you Tube from a company that does this, or a web site from one. Or someone who is really an expert, such as the Essential Craftsman.
There are a lot of guys on You Tube who are over their heads in a number of things. They may know some things, but not others. Just look up heat treating steel.
You're awesomely informative and I appreciate that more than you know! Subscribed, my new TH-cam teacher
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Good stuff, straight forward to the point and very informative.
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Looks so easy, but I think it needs some practice. Very good to follow the overall process and you pointing out the important facts.
Yes, practice makes perfect. Thanks for watching! Please check out my other videos and share.
Helpful video. Thanks for sharing.
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Very CLEAR instructions on the process along with good video. Thank you!!
Glad you appreciated the video! Be sure to read my "Pinned" comment, and look over my extensive video playlists for other great videos of interest to you. Thanks!
Great video .
Sir , thank you so much for sharing your knowledge .
I am from Sri Lanka .
Great video Douglas, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for explaining and making this video.
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Owe dam ive been doing wrong for 20 years, iv been heat the ends up straight away
Time to change my method, such a great bit of knowledge cheers
That was spot on, thank you !
Great video, Thanks for sharing with us your knowledge.
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This is very informative. Thank you
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first video of yours I have seen, earned my sub. awesome. thanks.
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VERY good video,very detailed and explained.
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A Clear, strait and nice brief about the topics................. Thanks a lot.
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Great Job! Nice SIMPLE video on Harding.
Glad you liked it Pete!
Great instructional vid, many thanks.
Thanks Michael
Thank you. Well explained.
Thanks for sharing good information!!
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Great fast to the point video! Awesome job!! Only thing I see an issue with is not letting the temper process cool down slowly instead of dunking it in the water. But other than that Great video man! Keep it up!!
Yes, some recommend placing the item inside a small toaster oven to cool very slowly. Thanks for watching!
I've done further searching, air cooling and quenching are both correct, depending on desired outcome. Used engine oil got an honourable mention for its carbon content.
Very Nice............ Thanks for info
Cleaver video. Thank you so much, - you explained that so clearly.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video just what i was looking for thank you
Glad to hear it!
Thanks for this. It always intimidated me before
You're welcome Keith! Be sure to look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks for watching
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Thank you. I will share your channel. Go on. Liked your simplicity in video. Great.
Very helpful, thanks!
You're welcome!
Thanks. Im gona try doing this to cheap throwing knives
Thanks for the video,I like.
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Thanks for the video!
Really useful to know these things!
It would be nice if you added a list of the colours, the corresponding temperatures and the applications for tempering!
Then the lazy folk could take a screenshot and save it for quick reference!
Thanks again!
Hi! Great video! Many thanks!
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Very nice information. Thanks for your time and effort to make this tutorial. Very professional.
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Will give this a try...thank you
Thanks for watching!
Hi dear. Very good video and useful. I did it and see how much is it work ❤
Excellent as usual :-)
Nice tutorial. Thanks for the info!
David Kurtz Be sure to check out my video playlists and share. Thanks!
Just the tip...that's what she said. Sorry I couldn't resist.
Great video, thanks for posting. I decided to re-harden my chisels and found this video which is great.
Glad you liked the video!
very well done bro. thanks for the vid..
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Really thank you! Your video is very good.
You're welcome! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for other great videos of interest to you, subscribe, and most importantly share my channel with many others. Thank you
Very good I learned much on my quest. "Reminds me of Conan " Ahh the rule of steel, THAT you can trust and nothing else" LOL. seriously, Thank you much!
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I like the discoloration lol
Very useful. Thanks.
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Nice work. I'd like to do something like this, I'm a first timer though. I'm making a set of pin punches and center punches but all I have is a mapp torch. Would that work fine or is it too hot?
Thank you this was a very good tutorial!
You're welcome!
No it wasnt. He is so incorrect at this it makes my stomach hurt. Blind leading the blind here
@@danpinnell7502 Well what's wrong with it then? It worked on my couple of tools that I tested
@@danpinnell7502 Get a life buddy, and take some Tums for your stomach ailment.
When tempering you should hold it at that color for 120-180 seconds, and you shouldn't dunk in water the second time, ideally. Otherwise spot on!
otherwise it become soft?
Hi, do you file test these tools to check the hardness afterwards or is the colour scale always correct?
Thanks
quenching liquid is determined by the manufacturer , some metals quenched in water ans some others oil and others require cool blowing air ,, tempering is 700c times the volume of the tool ,, heat treatment is 3 years training for diploma and reliability of workers ...for instance , 4terpilar 200t truck after welding chassis he spent 24hours in 756c to harden welding giving the truck the ability to haul 200 tones....if bits are made by chromvanadium or chrommoly it's already chemically treated and hardened...thank you for your tutorial...i did your method years ago on cheap Chinese bit , it didn't work , the bit broke after 5sec under screwdriver ... thanks again... more success
The bits treated should ONLY be "High Speed Steel" type. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore my pleasure ,, n thank you too
Good vid thanks for sharing
You're welcome Ed!
Very nice 👍🏻
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This was great!
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Great! Thank you!
You're welcome! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others. Thank You
Awesome video
Glad you enjoyed my video Jenson! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for other great videos of interest to you, and most importantly share my channel with many others. Thank you
very nice
Thanks for the video I learn a lot with you thanks
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Hi Doug. Has always very useful information. And has always I liked, Shared and added to my channels Playlists.
All my best.
Bobby
Thanks Bobby!
because of this video, I'll ganna try to DIY it at home...
Thank you so much for doing this video , I've wanted to do this for ages but never had the confidence I would get it right. Now I can't wait to have a crack at it , thanks again, great stuff !!!!
You're welcome!
What a gem of a video. I wasn't even looking for this info but I am glad I came across it, as I have many broken tip tools and punches, chissels. Thanks much! God bless!
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Very well done, thank you!!
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nice it worked i heat treated my hex keys now they are indestructible
congrats for your new subscribers. 👍
I'm Inn
Nice work
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Awesome video but I’m having trouble can you use this technique on partially painted blades? And with map gas torch
nicely done. I wonder if an infrared thermometer could be used to be more precise with the temperature ranges. I know it's not needed, but being a novice, it would assist. My aldi one won't go that hot for readings as it tops out at 380 celsius, wait a minute, you're talking Farenheit, so yes the Aldi one will work !
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Simple IS better! Great video 👍
Yes! Thank you!
Awesome tutorial brother, thank you for a great video!
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this is a very good video and very well explained. You are a nutural teacher and communicator.
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Nice. Tysm
A quick question... isn't it best practice to anneal the material before it is hardened again to make sure that martensite forms in sufficient quantities? I'm self-teaching myself on this topic and have read about the idea stated above. Any insight would be greatly appreciate!! Very informative and to the point on your video though. Thanks!
Please read my pinned comment. :-) Thanks for watching!
He's far too important to answer your question. Sorry for your inconvenience! But the bitch is still busy. B.i.s.b.
I am planning to make a couple of shovel for metal detecting at my job. I will design them with Delta cad, then plasma cut them. Do you have any videos on how to heat treat & temper shovel blades. I need them to last. Thanks.
Unfortunately I don't have any videos for that. Thanks for watching!
Awesome, thanks you have a new sub here now 😁
Question, is the final sanding/cleaning up purely for aesthetics?
Great to hear! Yes, just for looks.
thank you!
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i was in the middle of a heat treat process with a knife, I got a fascinating result. after one hour and twenty minutes of ramping up to 520F, I had looked in my oven to see that my blade was a beautiful wine color.
with my rasp i cant seem to move any steel off the edges so i know i did something right. anyhow thank you for the reference i needed to accomplish this.
it saved me scrambling through a pile of books and second guessing myself^
Can you temper if previously hardened such as that big screwdriver there?
I never quenched a blade at tempering just let it air cool. Is quenching better? Does it differ from air cooling?
Yes, it is different.
very good
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thank you
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