Neck break angles are the first thing I learned about and I was always told by other luthiers to buy Melvyn Hiscock's book "Build your own Electric Guitar" which details the process of working this out for yourself by drawing a full scale plan. Lining paper available from most shops that stock wallpaper is an inexpensive and easy way to get paper that is big enough for this. I think its 50p-£1 a roll in most stores.
Hi Ben, love to see you guys grow...just don't grow too fast or too big. That often hast the ability to mess up everything. I know you are all quality over quantity. What you want in the end is to stay on the bench and make some guitars. Saw your tour through the new shop or rather the new complex If you ran out of space again O.o...wow.
I agree with you on this. I was taught the most accurate way to measure is without a rule/tape measure etc. When i drilled the bridge holes for my "SG" guitar build i first fixed the stop tail in position and strung/tuned up the two "E" strings, then slid the bridge under these strings and adjusted the position of it until the 12th fret harmonic registered an E on the tuner. Marked and drilled holes....This work perfect and these was no measuring involved.
Question ben. As the break angle of a neck goes from flat-0 to 1, 2, 3 degrees etc, the scale length line will move correspondingly back toward the neck on the body, correct? B/c the frets are physically moving away from the body as the angle goes up.
Hey Ben, a little off topic to the video, but... are you going to be selling the wooden plectrum blanks in the store again? I got my package from the 30k subscriber give away a little while ago and they're so beautiful I feel like I need to buy a set to frame now... and maybe some more to play with since they also feel and sound great right out of the pack.
If the break angle was at the body end of the blank, then the pickup cavities and the holes for the TOM Bridge studs would also be at an angle. The bridge especially be presented at an angle of 4 degrees for example(same as the neck break angle) to the strings. Would it make any differece or am I overthinking it.
Baldeep panessar. You can almost never over think it. If you want your bridge to be relative to your board then just drill at the angle of your board into the body. Your pickups should be the same. They should all align with the strings.
Something I think is important for what it's worth; get some cheap wood, pine or whatever. Then make your neck and angled body from one piece. Put a few frets in it like 1, 12 and 13. Put your bridge on loose and string it up. This way you can not only find your perfect bridge location but you can make a few mistakes on cheap wood.
Hello Ben, I'm an aspiring luthier, just about to start my first prototype build, and have been looking all over the internet for wood suppliers, but have not been able to find anywhere that sells ebony, or other comparable blackwoods, with certificates of legal harvest. I have since heard of a technique called ebonizing, and was wondering if this would be an effective alternative in fretboards, or if the added moisture would cause issues with the wood. Thank you for your time, and all the lessons ~ From another Ben.
Hi Ben, thanks for all your inspiration, I am a recent subscriber and gradually getting through your posts, I would like to know if you do a kit for an archtop jazz style guitar? or a video on how you would go about making one please
Definitly at some point but it will be a while before I work far enough through our custom order list to find an acoustic build to do.. Thanks for your support.
Forget the angle, the only reason for this is because those bridges stand tall over the body. The solution....just recess the bridge down into the body. Much nicer to play.
Then how do you get any repeatability between like guitars? and if there is no repeatability between like guitars that means some guitars may be great (if any) and others not so great (how many?), I don't like the sounds of that???
that exactly how I build my necks, but what I do is build the neck flat then find my 4 or 4 1/2 degree make my mark ,then mark the opposite side, then take my wings or body sides one at a time ,lift the butt end of the Mack making sure the head stock end is over the table edge or lay the neck on it's side and place the wing what it would sit at the edge at the top where the fretboard meets keeping that front body end there then bring the butt end of the body down to my degree mark witch is 3/8th of an inch for 4 degrees, 4 1/ for bennedello arch top then draw my line from neck end, that's the front of the body to the degree line repeat on other side the a vertical line from the fretboard end to the line and then cut down that line and the fretboard end line ,I BUILT my solid body electric mandolin this way and I was told by a professional that he was amazed and that I did a great job since most first time builders seldomly get most of the measurements right my mandolin play's great ,don't forget you will have a 2nd line to make on the bottom that will have to be cut off so when you do you mock up the neck fits flat and even ,top and bottom and BEFOR gluing this process works great for me and I build all my necks this way and doing thus also clearly shows the neck break point
I JUST NOTICED THIS POST I LEFT A COUPLE MONTHS AGO, I'VE COMPLETELY CHANGED THE WAY I BUILD NECK THROUGH AND MORTIS AND TENNON STYLE BUILDS. IT IS VERY SIMPLE AS YOU SAY THE ANGLE IS THE ANGLE NO NEED FOR OVER COMPLICATING THE PROCESS.
However good you are with numbers, you never need to know the neck break angle. You don't measure the angle. You need to know how much lower your top is at the bridge measured from neck top line, and that's what you draw and measure too. It is bridge height - fretboard thickness - fret thickness - (string height at 12th fret x 2) + possible top thickness. No angle there. Bridge height there is of course the preferred height when correctly adjusted, not minimum or maximum.
I've seen several websites for local guitar building/repair places, but only Ed Roman makes the huge stink about Gibson headstock angles and necks. His rage page makes it seem like Gibson necks are balsa wood and done deliberately. So I put the question to you, sir: Are Ed Roman's rants valid, and are Gibson headstock angles completely wrong? Thanks!
KainzMusic "Are Gibson headstock angles completely wrong?" I think your question can be answered by the test of time. My brother-in-law plays a 74 year old Gibson archtop, it sounds and plays beautifully. Bottom-line: You're going to find a thousand differing opinions when it concerns "proper" guitar construction. I say look to the masters for inspiration, but look within yourself for innovation.
i decided to just kinda mimic the neck break angle of another instrument that has a a similar bridge as the guitar i am building...(without actually measuring what the angle was) bad idea, now i have effectively an inch to fill between where the strings will sit, and where the body of the guitar is... luckly i am inginuitive enough to compensate for this, but now i must do a ton of work to use an idea that i had on the theoretical backburner because traditional stuff wont work.
IF YOU ANGLE THE NECK TENNON AND THE TENNON SLOT THE FINGERBOARD WILL LAY FLUSH TO THE TOP OF THE BODY LIKE A LES PAUL. IF YOU ONLY ANGLE THE POCKET OR TENNON THE FINGERBOARD WILL BE RAISED OFF THE BODY AND THE SIDE OF THE NECK WILL BE SLIGHTLY EXPOSED. NONE OF THESE WAYS ARE WRONG ITS ALL PREFERENCE. I ANGLE BOTH, I THINK IT'S CLEANER BUT IT IS A BIT MORE DIFFICULT TO LINE UP THE LIP ON THE BOTTOM OF THE NECK TO THE BOTTOM OF THE BODY. IF YOU TAKE YOUR TIME AND BUILD PROPER JIGS ITS NOT A HUGE DEAL. IT TOOK ME A COUPLE OF BUILDS TO GET IT DOWN.
I am building a neck through multiscale this summer and I'm only confident I can do it because of you and these videos. Thank you!
I'm starting one now, I know it's been a while by now but do you have any advice from you can remember?
actually making a neck through right now, this was really helpful thanks!
Neck break angles are the first thing I learned about and I was always told by other luthiers to buy Melvyn Hiscock's book "Build your own Electric Guitar" which details the process of working this out for yourself by drawing a full scale plan. Lining paper available from most shops that stock wallpaper is an inexpensive and easy way to get paper that is big enough for this. I think its 50p-£1 a roll in most stores.
Drawing is design and design is drawing... Once the drawing is done, so is the design!!! I like your approach.
Greg's Garage Well said!
I'm getting ready to build my first neck through and I appreciate this
With a flat neck, you can also rout out a recess for a tunomatic or use one of the Fender bridges (check string spacing though).
Hi Ben,
love to see you guys grow...just don't grow too fast or too big.
That often hast the ability to mess up everything.
I know you are all quality over quantity.
What you want in the end is to stay on the bench and make some guitars.
Saw your tour through the new shop or rather the new complex
If you ran out of space again O.o...wow.
I agree with you on this. I was taught the most accurate way to measure is without a rule/tape measure etc.
When i drilled the bridge holes for my "SG" guitar build i first fixed the stop tail in position and strung/tuned up the two "E" strings, then slid the bridge under these strings and adjusted the position of it until the 12th fret harmonic registered an E on the tuner. Marked and drilled holes....This work perfect and these was no measuring involved.
I'm with you on the math Ben, I use it when necessary, but tend to be visually oriented.
I'm with ya Ben I just can't do the math stuff I just can't....I'm very much a "visceral" builder as well. You are awesome and I love your podcast!
Funny you should say about the size of the workshop.
I've been thinking for some time that you need larger premises?
Question ben. As the break angle of a neck goes from flat-0 to 1, 2, 3 degrees etc, the scale length line will move correspondingly back toward the neck on the body, correct? B/c the frets are physically moving away from the body as the angle goes up.
Hey Ben, a little off topic to the video, but... are you going to be selling the wooden plectrum blanks in the store again? I got my package from the 30k subscriber give away a little while ago and they're so beautiful I feel like I need to buy a set to frame now... and maybe some more to play with since they also feel and sound great right out of the pack.
Baby face Ben!!! 🤣🤣❤️
long time ago.. :) B
Even the Les Paul template has the removable headstock feature
If the break angle was at the body end of the blank, then the pickup cavities and the holes for the TOM Bridge studs would also be at an angle. The bridge especially be presented at an angle of 4 degrees for example(same as the neck break angle) to the strings. Would it make any differece or am I overthinking it.
Baldeep panessar. You can almost never over think it. If you want your bridge to be relative to your board then just drill at the angle of your board into the body. Your pickups should be the same. They should all align with the strings.
Something I think is important for what it's worth; get some cheap wood, pine or whatever. Then make your neck and angled body from one piece. Put a few frets in it like 1, 12 and 13. Put your bridge on loose and string it up. This way you can not only find your perfect bridge location but you can make a few mistakes on cheap wood.
-I'm not interested in mathematics behind it. Maybe you are.
Me: Well, I am.
-You're a better person then I am.
Me: Thanks man:)
Hello Ben, I'm an aspiring luthier, just about to start my first prototype build, and have been looking all over the internet for wood suppliers, but have not been able to find anywhere that sells ebony, or other comparable blackwoods, with certificates of legal harvest. I have since heard of a technique called ebonizing, and was wondering if this would be an effective alternative in fretboards, or if the added moisture would cause issues with the wood.
Thank you for your time, and all the lessons ~
From another Ben.
2DKnight. How did you get on? Have you made any guitars yet?
Thanks as always, informative, good stuff. Another thing learned about break angles
Just wanted to say Thanks
Hi Ben, thanks for all your inspiration, I am a recent subscriber and gradually getting through your posts, I would like to know if you do a kit for an archtop jazz style guitar? or a video on how you would go about making one please
Yes people, hit the like button, it only takes a second.
hey ben love your videos, any chance of some more acoustic build videos?
Definitly at some point but it will be a while before I work far enough through our custom order list to find an acoustic build to do.. Thanks for your support.
Forget the angle, the only reason for this is because those bridges stand tall over the body. The solution....just recess the bridge down into the body. Much nicer to play.
Then how do you get any repeatability between like guitars? and if there is no repeatability between like guitars that means some guitars may be great (if any) and others not so great (how many?), I don't like the sounds of that???
that exactly how I build my necks, but what I do is build the neck flat then find my 4 or 4 1/2 degree make my mark ,then mark the opposite side, then take my wings or body sides one at a time ,lift the butt end of the Mack making sure the head stock end is over the table edge or lay the neck on it's side and place the wing what it would sit at the edge at the top where the fretboard meets keeping that front body end there then bring the butt end of the body down to my degree mark witch is 3/8th of an inch for 4 degrees, 4 1/ for bennedello arch top then draw my line from neck end, that's the front of the body to the degree line repeat on other side the a vertical line from the fretboard end to the line and then cut down that line and the fretboard end line ,I BUILT my solid body electric mandolin this way and I was told by a professional that he was amazed and that I did a great job since most first time builders seldomly get most of the measurements right my mandolin play's great ,don't forget you will have a 2nd line to make on the bottom that will have to be cut off so when you do you mock up the neck fits flat and even ,top and bottom and BEFOR gluing this process works great for me and I build all my necks this way and doing thus also clearly shows the neck break point
What country is crimsons guitars in?
Catfish Connor Angola
I JUST NOTICED THIS POST I LEFT A COUPLE MONTHS AGO, I'VE COMPLETELY CHANGED THE WAY I BUILD NECK THROUGH AND MORTIS AND TENNON STYLE BUILDS. IT IS VERY SIMPLE AS YOU SAY THE ANGLE IS THE ANGLE NO NEED FOR OVER COMPLICATING THE PROCESS.
However good you are with numbers, you never need to know the neck break angle. You don't measure the angle. You need to know how much lower your top is at the bridge measured from neck top line, and that's what you draw and measure too. It is bridge height - fretboard thickness - fret thickness - (string height at 12th fret x 2) + possible top thickness. No angle there. Bridge height there is of course the preferred height when correctly adjusted, not minimum or maximum.
Plz give the measurement of a guitar body
I've seen several websites for local guitar building/repair places, but only Ed Roman makes the huge stink about Gibson headstock angles and necks. His rage page makes it seem like Gibson necks are balsa wood and done deliberately. So I put the question to you, sir: Are Ed Roman's rants valid, and are Gibson headstock angles completely wrong? Thanks!
KainzMusic "Are Gibson headstock angles completely wrong?" I think your question can be answered by the test of time. My brother-in-law plays a 74 year old Gibson archtop, it sounds and plays beautifully.
Bottom-line: You're going to find a thousand differing opinions when it concerns "proper" guitar construction. I say look to the masters for inspiration, but look within yourself for innovation.
5:20 sure glad i have some wallpaper handy! jk just a bunch of printer paper and tape. that'll do
i decided to just kinda mimic the neck break angle of another instrument that has a a similar bridge as the guitar i am building...(without actually measuring what the angle was) bad idea, now i have effectively an inch to fill between where the strings will sit, and where the body of the guitar is... luckly i am inginuitive enough to compensate for this, but now i must do a ton of work to use an idea that i had on the theoretical backburner because traditional stuff wont work.
IF YOU ANGLE THE NECK TENNON AND THE TENNON SLOT THE FINGERBOARD WILL LAY FLUSH TO THE TOP OF THE BODY LIKE A LES PAUL. IF YOU ONLY ANGLE THE POCKET OR TENNON THE FINGERBOARD WILL BE RAISED OFF THE BODY AND THE SIDE OF THE NECK WILL BE SLIGHTLY EXPOSED. NONE OF THESE WAYS ARE WRONG ITS ALL PREFERENCE. I ANGLE BOTH, I THINK IT'S CLEANER BUT IT IS A BIT MORE DIFFICULT TO LINE UP THE LIP ON THE BOTTOM OF THE NECK TO THE BOTTOM OF THE BODY. IF YOU TAKE YOUR TIME AND BUILD PROPER JIGS ITS NOT A HUGE DEAL. IT TOOK ME A COUPLE OF BUILDS TO GET IT DOWN.
I wish I had the skills to build a neck through :(
YOU DO, IT'S NOT AS HARD AS IT LOOKS. JUST STUDY, MAKE PLANS AND TAKE YOUR TIME. IF ICAN DO IT ANYONE CAN.
264 likes wow seems like your call was heard :)
not like a gibson break angle..its toooooo much.go with epiphone specs
Is your sister single?
5.30 😂
I wonder how many learning disorders this guy has.