Learn to Paddle a Canoe By Using the J-Stroke
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Please watch this in conjunction with our other video "Taming the Canoe" as this is a continuation of this learning sequence. The J-stroke is a wonderful canoe stroke once you learn it. Here are some tricks for learning to do a great J-stroke and overcoming some of the common challenges that people experience when they first try it. Instruction by Travis Frenay, owner of Paddle & Portage Canoes and lead teacher of canoeing at Lithgow TAFE - video by Stephen Curtain.
Thank you very much! I have got an open canoe a couple of month ago and had a nice summer inside of it, in the rivers nearby here in Germany. I lused to watch a couple of Videos, but I don manage to get the J-Stroke powerful enough to get me straight. This video was the gamechanger, the trick with the turn of the wrist was very helpful!
Thanks, Luka. Enjoy your new canoe and also going straight!
Thanks for those instructional videos on how to paddle. Helped me a Lot!
no worries, thanks for watching.
Some water wisdom right there. I'm subbing! Great stuff.
Great Videos! Helps a lot for new beginners like me :). You explain it perfect ( not like your instructors did :-P ). Thats a very nice paddle you got there! Can you maybe do a video about paddles? Different types, the right length and so on? Would appreciate that :)
GREAT TIP ABOUT THE T-GRIP HOLDING....THANKS
Great video, really helpful, thankyou 🙂
Thanks. You put great efforts into your videos I can see it. Just the way you edit and place your camera. Thanks again really good video/explanations.
Very instructive and well done! I don't want to abuse of your patience but I have some other questions now: I see you kneeling on one side of the canoe and as i understood it, this is to make it easier to reach the water with the paddle (am I correct?). Is there another advantage of leaning the canoe to one side (water friction)? Would paddling the canoe leveled be slower (providing the gunnels would not be too far apart)? Is there a side to favor regarding where we are heading or where the wind comes from? Does this allow for better tracknig? I know much questions here. Thank you again !
Good questions. Heeling a boat, like a Prospector, over for solo paddling has a variety of advantages. First, the profile of the hull on the water is altered which makes it more streamlined. With the "belly" of the canoe engaged, the ends of the canoe become free which increases manoeuvrability and responsiveness. The most important advantage, for me, is your ability to create a new centerline for the canoe. When the canoe is flat, because of its width you're forced to paddle a reasonable distance to the side of centre which applies a turning force with every stroke. If you could somehow paddle directly below yourself then this wouldn't be the case. When the canoe is heeled over, it is more possible to paddle directly underneath yourself (or at least much closer to the "new centreline) so that each stroke doesn't apply a strong turning force which requires correction. The end result is a canoe that is more responsive and travels more efficiently. Also, as you've noted, you have better access to reach the water. Regarding wind, it's generally advisable to heel the canoe away from the wind if you have a headwind. Trim is very important and experimenting is recommended. By paddling across the wind at an angle (the strength of the wind and size of the waves will dictate what angle is most appropriate) the wind often assists with the correction of the canoe back against your paddling side. This allows you to apply power without as much need for a constant corrective stroke. With a tailwind, it's best to experiment with which way to heel the canoe and how to adjust your trim. There's lots that I could explain on this but this is just a start. I hope this helps.
@@PaddlePortageCanoes That is great information ! Thanks a lot ! All this makes sense. I have to be myself on the water now to be able to feel all those corrective positions and their effect in various conditions. I imagine this can vary a lot from canoe to canoe, from hull shape to another as well as from paddlers to paddlers. practicing is key obviously.
Thanks for the instruction and rationale!
Great video! I also like that hat. I wonder what brand it is?
Thanks. Mine is just a cheapie oilskin that I grabbed at a market somewhere. However, I have seen a similar one from Scala. Hope that helps
Your videos are really simple to follow and very useful
Thanks, I'm a simple guy!
Your videos are very helpful! Thank you.
Excellent explanation,thank you
Thanks!!
what's the pfd you're wearing?
It's an old "Eddy" by MTI. The most comfortable pfd I've ever had
Great vid, as always.
Great tip
What's your view on the nova craft tuff stuff and tuffstuf expedition
Hi Kevin, I wish I could offer more but I haven't yet seen or paddled either material. I have, however, paddled the new T-Formex (Royalex replacement made by Esquif Canoe) and it is fantastic!
OK thank you
@@PaddlePortageCanoes Nice to hear that as I'm looking to buy my first canoe and I'm pretty hooked on the Esquif Vertige (solo 12').
Great instructions! I wish you had touched a bit on the consequences of the bow paddler insisting on using the jstroke. 🤪
Yes, there may be an efficiency,, and I do have one situation where i always use the J-stroke. I favour paddles that are flexible. From grip to tip, my best paddles are often recurved about 2 to 3 inches on each stroke. I like a lively paddle that talks to my hands. I dislike an absolutely stiff and unfeeling paddle. Once the paddle is loaded up, bent, flipping it to a J-stroke side,, the energy of the paddle straightening alone accomplishes the correction. But,,,,,
I paddle long distances, hundreds of miles and a month is a nice outing. I come back feeling at ease and refreshed. Consider,,, I am NOT going to twist my wrist upside down and backwards 500,000 times. The J-stroke also requires strength of the posting arm where as the 'gooney' does not. The J,, if done correctly,, uses a bit of a gunnel pry. I LIKE wooden paddles. There would be nothing left of the paddle shaft if I pried against the gunnel 100,000 times or so.,
The norm for me when under way is two or three forward strokes and drop the blade back square to rudder,, a 'Gooney stroke'. I do not need a correction on each stroke at all. And if the distance is particularly long,, I switch paddle,, just exactly like every canoe racer in the world. All correction strokes require energy input. Switch paddling,,, 3, 4, or 5 strokes to a side and switch sides,, 2, 3, 4, or 5 strokes to that side and switch. Extra strokes if turning a corner. And do not mistake me,, when a canoe develops a decent speed very few corrections to the course are needed. It is only at low speed,, and often lake paddling,, that requires a correction on each stroke.
The J-stroke is vastly over rated. And don't you dare get me started on cross arm paddling,, send those dolts back to Yuppy school.