I used LFBB 1/8" HT:10041104, a general purpose brazing alloy! The flux was #2 high heat and I would like to add, Peterson flux is my choise!... Thanks for the comment, Keith
I have been teaching myself how to do these repairs with the peterson #2 and trying both gray iron foundry rod and silicone bronze on cast iron. The flux works so well. I learned from Jere Kirkpatrick, he has some videos on it.
I can practically taste the zinc after you propped the table up and I saw all the white dust/residue. Awesome work though... I like the change in music you add for the sped up scenes.
Thats a full face shield, with a # 8 tint, I'm finding them to be more comfortable and being able to wear my prescription eye glasses, I have the best vision...
@billdlv Over the years, machining cast Iron repairs I have seen good clean visuals of the sections of depth where the joining of the two metals meet and the torch brazing wins hands down, every single time
You may be over heating it! After a good preheat slightly turn down the flame a bit, running the torch with a hiss, is close to popping out as it is, also may be holding it a little bit close. The #2 high heat may help you out, I use mostly for cast iron, #1 flux I use on everything else.
@billdlv I have burned my share of Ni rod, stick and silicon bronze, tigging, on cast over the years and some of it with five star results. When cast iron become molten agaist itself a crystlized layer forms, my thinking. with defense manuvers like pre heats and peening to stress relieve, stick welding Ni rod can work for some projects. I love, tigging silicon bronze, but found it to be a localize form of heat and sometimes crosses the melting line in cast thus forming crystles...
Great comment! Well as I'm looking at it, I'm squaring off the build up and pitcher the shape needed, you could make a jig like a C clamp for the height and spring calipers for the bore diameter. ;{)-----
That looks just like the steering knuckle on the Carraro axle on my Case 1390. Yahoos that owned it before me let the lower bearing get destroyed, and the bearings chewed up some of the cast, so I'm going to have to do this kind of repair on mine to make the grease seal work.
Bring back the original thickness with equal strength material is stronger than leaving the material shy and creating a flanged sleeve, the angle and depth of the wear was more than the camera shows! ;{)---
Another educational demonstration! What happens when you heat flux too high? I'm just learning to braze steel with a small oxyacetylene torch equipped with flashback arrestors. I've been getting a loud 'pop' at high heat when using coated rod, or sometimes with powdered flux when really hot. Same sound as when you turn the acetylene of the torch off quickly, except the flame doesn't quit. Should I find some #2 high heat flux? The bronze is not flowing as well as with soldering.
Most of mine have just been odd balls from everywhere, finding good ones, that stay around awhile and through the cheap ones away. I look for the shapes and sizes to determine if I'm going to get them or not. That is a good name brand or at least it was, the last time I used something of theirs. A good burr is worth $15 to $20 to me If I'm getting a year's use out of it! ;{)-----
kieth good vids have been watching for a li while now, i have been a machinist/fabricator for 8 years now and had done a few repairs like this, i was woundering why u chose to braze the entire bore up in stead of brazing the missing material then bored the braze and parent material to a size to accept a sleeve of steel which would last longer and be better for the bearing.
Keith have you done cast iron repairs using the torch to preheat and your stick welder? I've repaired some small cast parts using the tig welder and Si-Br rod. Just wondering if you prefer the torch brazing for repairs.
When you said "I think I got enough on there" I was wondering "How does he know he got enough on there?" Should we make some sort of testing jig if this is our first time?
KEITH, What is the apparatus you use to hold, tilt, and rotate with during your brazing videos? Are they still manufactured? Thanks- Bill Phillips- Montana
I used LFBB 1/8" HT:10041104, a general purpose brazing alloy! The flux was #2 high heat and I would like to add, Peterson flux is my choise!... Thanks for the comment, Keith
I have been teaching myself how to do these repairs with the peterson #2 and trying both gray iron foundry rod and silicone bronze on cast iron. The flux works so well.
I learned from Jere Kirkpatrick, he has some videos on it.
That brazing looks awesome. Great job.
I can practically taste the zinc after you propped the table up and I saw all the white dust/residue. Awesome work though... I like the change in music you add for the sped up scenes.
Great job keith !!!
That is a weld positioner and I mounted the four jaw chuck to it. Yes they are still made!
Thats a full face shield, with a # 8 tint, I'm finding them to be more comfortable and being able to wear my prescription eye glasses, I have the best vision...
@billdlv Over the years, machining cast Iron repairs I have seen good clean visuals of the sections of depth where the joining of the two metals meet and the torch brazing wins hands down, every single time
You may be over heating it! After a good preheat slightly turn down the flame a bit, running the torch with a hiss, is close to popping out as it is, also may be holding it a little bit close. The #2 high heat may help you out, I use mostly for cast iron, #1 flux I use on everything else.
@billdlv I have burned my share of Ni rod, stick and silicon bronze, tigging, on cast over the years and some of it with five star results. When cast iron become molten agaist itself a crystlized layer forms, my thinking. with defense manuvers like pre heats and peening to stress relieve, stick welding Ni rod can work for some projects. I love, tigging silicon bronze, but found it to be a localize form of heat and sometimes crosses the melting line in cast thus forming crystles...
That is priceless information. Thanks Keith.
Great comment! Well as I'm looking at it, I'm squaring off the build up and pitcher the shape needed, you could make a jig like a C clamp for the height and spring calipers for the bore diameter. ;{)-----
Not a fan of pre flux, some times you don't want any on and most of the time I need the #2 high heat flux.
That looks just like the steering knuckle on the Carraro axle on my Case 1390. Yahoos that owned it before me let the lower bearing get destroyed, and the bearings chewed up some of the cast, so I'm going to have to do this kind of repair on mine to make the grease seal work.
@devvon You know, in theroy, most rods could be added to each other, just the process to do so, on other alloys, is not as easy!
Bring back the original thickness with equal strength material is stronger than leaving the material shy and creating a flanged sleeve, the angle and depth of the wear was more than the camera shows! ;{)---
Another educational demonstration!
What happens when you heat flux too high? I'm just learning to braze steel with a small oxyacetylene torch equipped with flashback arrestors. I've been getting a loud 'pop' at high heat when using coated rod, or sometimes with powdered flux when really hot. Same sound as when you turn the acetylene of the torch off quickly, except the flame doesn't quit. Should I find some #2 high heat flux? The bronze is not flowing as well as with soldering.
nice job bud
Most of mine have just been odd balls from everywhere, finding good ones, that stay around awhile and through the cheap ones away. I look for the shapes and sizes to determine if I'm going to get them or not. That is a good name brand or at least it was, the last time I used something of theirs. A good burr is worth $15 to $20 to me If I'm getting a year's use out of it! ;{)-----
Great repair
Very well shown
Do you ever use pre fluxed rod
kieth good vids have been watching for a li while now, i have been a machinist/fabricator for 8 years now and had done a few repairs like this, i was woundering why u chose to braze the entire bore up in stead of brazing the missing material then bored the braze and parent material to a size to accept a sleeve of steel which would last longer and be better for the bearing.
I expect it was because there wouldn't be much parent material remaining after boring for a sleeve.
Tha other way around, the bearing failed caused the damages to the casting. ;{)---
Keith have you done cast iron repairs using the torch to preheat and your stick welder?
I've repaired some small cast parts using the tig welder and Si-Br rod.
Just wondering if you prefer the torch brazing for repairs.
The only thing that is not a match from brass to cast is the color. ;{)---
Love your work Keith. I was wondering, did the bearing fail causing the damage? Will the brass weld stand up to the stress as good as the cast?
When you said "I think I got enough on there" I was wondering "How does he know he got enough on there?"
Should we make some sort of testing jig if this is our first time?
So I'm guessing the static load of the bearing race on the brass isn't that much? Just wondering how the brass will hold up compared to the cast iron.
Hi great vid as usual what is that piece of music your using on the sped up sections ? :)
Seems vaguely Joe Satriani ish.
Are they standard fire blankets you're using for insulation? I hope so as it would be a good use for them and they're cheap.
KEITH,
What is the apparatus you use to hold, tilt, and rotate with during your brazing videos? Are they still manufactured?
Thanks-
Bill Phillips- Montana
I'm guessing the reason you didn't choose to MIG weld the damaged material is because it's cast? ....COULD you MIG weld it?
What rod did you use?
Yes & no! ;{---