Thanks for watching...I haven't had the need to replace the engine mount...and hopefully I won't have the need to... but if I ever need to, I will certainly record it...
Any chance you could share more details on how to get to the relay? I hooked a compressor (electrical connections only) to the setup upon suspecting the pump is shot. Electrically the old pump measures 1.1 ohm and the new one 1.2 ohm. Even when I turn on the engine and reset PASM error codes I hear the relay click but no 12V goes to the new pump. ( I did hook up the new pump for a brief sec to a 12Vsource and at least it whirred) That said I suspect the relay is clicking but its not passing that 12V to the pump. Ive been trying to get to that thing from the drivers side wheel well without success. Any pointers MUCH MUCH appreciated.
Assuming you are the person I helped in macan forum. But for the benefit of the community, here is the link with the answer to your question: www.macanforum.com/threads/air-suspension-compressor-distribution-valve-replacement-diy-with-santirx-series.188602/#post-2775275
PIWIS has a routine that bleeds the whole system, in the same menu you use to fill it. The whole process is automated using PIWIS. Just follow instructions. Thanks for watching and subscribe!
I’m not sure. I know that rear suspension are bags. The front are a bit more complex with integrated bags and dampers. I know that later models have 3-chamber air suspension struts. But I don’t know about ours.
hi great video! followed it step by step however when we were filling height regulation deactivation is not completing therefore not finishing the fill do you know how to get past that? thanks
When you raised your car, did you put the car in jack mode by pressing the level button on the center console for 10 seconds or more until message display. Can you make sure that is done? If you have any doors open, that can also prevent from deactivating height regulation, etc…
@@porscheDIYhi thank you for the reply yes we activated jacking mode and closed all the doors etc. we are using an autel diagnostic does it have to be piwis3?
@@MichaelAlvarez-r8w I like to use PIWIS, but even with PIWIS I have found that things get broken with newer versions. Hence for my Macan I always use version 38.250 which is several versions older than the current one. Is more stable and it addresses all issues with my 2015 Macan S. This is something that may hold true with Autel. Can you back-rev your Autel and try again? Meaning, installing an older version of the Porsche software?
I’m not sure, I haven’t done that nor have heard of anyone attempting to do this. I’m sure is doable, but it will not only require that you mount new front sensor, which will include new bumper grille with the opening for the sensor and the wiring. You need to check if the control unit would be the same, most likely different control unit. And then you’ll have to commission and code everything with PIWIS, including Gateway and instrument cluster. That’s what I can say with my experience making other conversions like BiXenon to LED headlights. This conversion didn’t require rewiring, but did require commissioning and coding of modules, which were all different and new. BTW, it will also require a modification of the steering wheel stall.
hi i accident bleed the system and didn't know it's a close system . would you able to help me with the fitting . some of them is unavailable and also why do we need so many adapter ? will 20 cu/ft cylinder work or i need 40 cu/ft .for some reason it so hard to find high purity nitrogen .
Hi. Sorry to hear. The video description have links to the materials you need to make the hose adapter. Got them from Amazon. A 20cuft N2 cylinder should be OK. I was able to use my 40cuft for like 10 fills… so you should be fine. Good luck! And let us know how it goes. I got my Nitrogen 5 (high purity) from Linde. You should try there.
@@porscheDIY so from my understanding is the last 2 brass fitting in the links is to create 1/4 NPT male to M10x1 female correct ? the description said something about 3/4" Flare Male to 1/4" NPT Male but the amazon link is 1/4" Flare Male to 1/4" NPT Male
@@zzzly4038 good catch… the description of the fitting is wrong, but the link is the correct one. Is 1/4 flare male to 1/4 NPT male. I direct copy from Amazon and that is the description in Amazon although you can then select sizing. I corrected it in the video description now. Thanks for letting me know. All this is to convert the 1/4” flare female connection of the hose to the M10 female connection needed to connect the front right strut tubing fitting. Which is the one you need to connect to fill the system. I spent weeks researching this…😊
I would think that if you were to update the Maintenance of Vehicle Information section in PIWIS and then perform automatic coding of all modules, you could perform an air suspension delete. But I don’t think this is an easy process, whether performing a delete or recoding it.
Will the compressor not fill up the system I have a Macan sitting on the ground and just wondering if it has to be filled or can the compressor just fill it Thanks
@@mdudz The air suspension system in the Macan is a closed system that uses high purity Nitrogen. Although it has the ability to fill with exterior air if needed (as evidenced with my failure). A couple of questions: (1) Is your Macan sitting on the ground because you bled the system? Or because you have a leak? Usually if you have a leak in a strut, only one side will drop. You need to have a more universal failure for all 4 corners to drop. Either sensor related or distribution valve. (2) Is your compressor running? You should be able to hear it. If it runs, you should be able to see your Macan rising. If not, as I said before, you could have level sensor issue. (3). Did you go through a botched calibration process? That could drop your Macan to the floor if not done properly. It will require several iterations of recalibration to bring it back to normal…
@@porscheDIYso it could be #3 here’s a quick run down on what I did The car is new to me bought from auction so I don’t know any history when I received it the front was on the ground rear was level Step 1: I started it and pressed the off road button the rear lifted super high front stayed on ground Step 2 : I bleed the system using an autel scan tool that’s when the car rear went to the ground since then I wasn’t able to lift it nor do I hear the compressor come on anymore pressing the offroad button does nothing
@@mdudz You’ll have to fill it with high purity nitrogen. It is a closed system. So you will have to use the filling process (I show that in my video). You could get a small tank of HP Nitrogen (or Nitrogen 5) in a praxair store. You could use autel for this procedure. Because you bled the system, there is nothing in the accumulator tank to lift it with. The issue with the front could be sensor related.
I've got a 2016 Macan and it needed a new front drivers side (RHD) suspension valve. Replaced it and cleared the codes with a Durametric and it poped back up ok. Jacked the front up to finish another job and when I dropped it back down so did the front suspension, now it won't pop back up again even though I can hear the compressor working. Any ideas from your experience with them?
What do you mean with suspension valve? There is a block valve in the same compressor assembly that controls the nitrogen flow to each strut. What exactly did you have to replace?
Its the valve that screws into the top of the suspension strut, it was damaged so I had to get a replacement and when i fitted and reset the codes with a Durametric it poped back up and was fine, then I made the mistake of jacking up the front of the car without turning off the level sensors and now the front is to the ground and I can't get it to go back up! @@porscheDIY
@@patronageeditions if both front struts are grounded, check front level sensors. Make sure that linkage is still connected. It may have exceeded capacity by trying to relevel while jacked up. If linkage is connected, then I would suspect damaged level sensor. That’s the first thought that comes to mind.
I did check the linkages and they are both ok, but I did notice that one of the sensors had been knocked, so I have ordered a replacement as that was my next thought too. I only have a Durametric and I do have these 2 codes that come up when reading the PASM - 284 (Control position not adjustable, vehcile too high or too low) & 329 (nothing listed for this one!) I think I'd need a PIWIS to know what its telling me!@eDIY
My '17 Macan S had the Suspension Warning light (yellow) come on while driving. I had planned on calling up the dealer the next day to pick their brain on it. Didn't pay enough notice that when I parked it for the night the air suspension compressor was running well after exiting the vehicle and entering the house. The next morning the battery was dead. Jumped the battery and the first thing that came on (besides the car alarm) was the air suspension compressor. I located the fuse for it (40A) and pulled it. Over the next few days the ride height settled pretty even (rear height the same; fronts differed by 1/4"). Took it to the dealer and their tests showed no leaks in the system and said the compressor had a weak output which was causing it to constantly run. With your extensive experience with the system does this add up that the compressor could be faulty in this manner? They want $3070 to replace the compressor. From the dealer below: "Replace pump for leveling system. Pump output low causing pump run on. Need to replace and check functionality of leveling system. No external leaks found at this time. System holds pressure. $3,070.13"
It is possible that the compressor is just going bad. It is surprising however that it has not blown the fuse, so it seems is not overloading. If the system is holding pressure (you are not finding your car slumping on one side or anything like that?), therefor le it seems you don’t have a leak in the system. If it is leveling off, it means that sensors are working. I don’t think you have a distribution valve issue based on what you are describing. Therefore, the compressor is suspect. I hope your dealer made a comprehensive diagnostics, but you can always get a second opinion. The compressor is going to cost you between $1600 to $1800. The rest is labor. It probably would take 3 hours (4 for someone very slow) to change the compressor and recharge the system. Someone with experience could do it in 2. And $3000 sounds about right for a dealer. I hope you can subscribe to my channel for more content and more discussions. Thanks for watching and thanks for your question. I hope others can chime in on what could be going on in your case.
@@porscheDIY thanks for the reply. I only measured ride height after I pulled the fuse for the compressor. It sits pretty low now with the slight variation in the front height. I do like to tackle most DIY vehicle repairs but this one has me a little hesitant given I do not have any of the tools mentioned in the video description, and I also do not have the PIWIS software/hardware. To obtain all of those, I feel like I'm creeping up towards that $3k to have the dealer perform this. I found quite the range of pricing for the PIWIS. Thoughts?
@@zach_5 So, when the fuse is on, and you leave the car overnight… do you notice any slumping? On any of the struts? In order to tackle this yourself, you need several special tools. It took me about 2 months to get everything I needed. There is the Nitrogen-5 cylinder which I got from Praxair, but it requires a regulator and a hose that needs to be configured with very specific adapters to fit into the right front strut tubing to fill the system. There is also PIWIS, which you can acquire, if you have a computer that meets requirements you can get PIWIS for about $300. About $600 to $700 if you don’t have a computer. You need to have the stands or lift to get safely under the car. And then, standard tools. All in all, including the cost of the compressor and cost of the tools, you will probably be close to Porsche’s cost. The only problem is that, if the compressor is not the issue, the dealer will continue to attempt to get more money from you. I would try to get a second opinion, preferably from a reputable Indy shop. Probably the Indy shop is able to do this at a lower cost. Good luck!
@@porscheDIY It didn't notice it slumped that first morning not till after I removed the fuse and the subsequent evening and next day... My first call went to my indi shop but they let me know they are no longer doing repairs just maintenance work. Big bummer because they have been in that 50-60% range of the dealer cost. Had to let dealer do it due to time constraints this week, but if they come back and say there is xyz problem, I may have to acquire these tools then.
There is no air in the system. It is high purity nitrogen. As far as dryer, it is integrated with the compressor. There is a silica chamber in the compressor itself.
Thank you, so just to understand this a little better, the air suspension does use an intake of air but instead it’s a sealed system with high purity Nitrogen.
@@ravsingh3028 there is no air intake. It is a closed system with high purity nitrogen (Nitrogen 5). The system is filled with Nitrogen using PIWIS as demonstrated in the video. There are a number of parts that composed the system, including the struts/bags, compressor, distribution valve, storage tank and level sensors.
There are tell-tale signs that can point you to the issue depending on what you are seeing without going into a more detailed and technical diagnostics. The suspension system is a closed system filled with high purity nitrogen and is composed of a compressor, a storage tank, 4 air bags (one for each wheel), 4 level sensors (one for each wheel), a valve block and a control unit. Each component is isolated at the valve block level, which means for example, that once an air bag is filled, the in-line valve to the bag closes and retains pressure. You have valves that isolate the storage tank and all air bags. For example, if you want to change a single air bag, you just open valve from air bag to storage tank and the bag will empty to storage tank. So, if you have a single side of the car slumping all the time, the likelihood is that you have a leaky air bag on that side. If you have strange behavior from a specific suspension corner, going higher or lower, then you might have a level sensor issue. If all the corners slump at the same time, you might have a compressor issue. If your compressor is turning on too frequently, and you are not experiencing slumping in any corner, you might have a compressor issue. Usually the failure mode of the compressor is wear which prevents it from effectively build pressure. Leak in a compressor is not a common failure mode unless plastic components or seals fail. Usually you’ll have a blown fuse for compressor overworking. Fuse is 40A located in the trunk fuse carrier.
Jak wpisałeś wartość do kalibracji, to każde koło było na tej samej wysokości? Ja po wymianie kompresora i rozdzielacza mam każde koło na innej wysokości, i teraz nie wiem co zrobić, czy wpisać rzeczywiste wartości czy wpisać dla wszystkich kół te same parametry?
Always enter actual values for fender to center of wheel measurements. It doesn’t matter what the system says. When you enter actual values, the system is going to compare those actuals against default and will compensate to get you to default height. If you enter values other than what you are measuring, you are running the risk of system interpreting that the car is actually lower or higher than it actually is. Always always use measured values.
Zrobiłem kalibrację zawieszenia (PIWIS III), ale niestety samochód dalej stoi nierówno. Dodatkowo jak chcę przeprowadzić procedurę Height sensor system component test, to otrzymuje błąd 000286 service mode not completed, co z tym problemem zrobić? Jak skasuję kod błędu, znowu mogę wykonać kalibrację zawieszenia, ale nie przynosi to rezultatu z posiomowaniem samochodu@@porscheDIY
Wydaje mi się, że procedura kalibracji zawieszenia przedstawiona przez Ciebie jest nieprawidłowa (może się mylę), ale w instrukcji obsługi na stronie 5487, napisane jest że do wartości którą zmierzymy dodaje się 32,5 mm (jest to promień czujnika). Moje Porsche Macan jest z 2017 roku.
@@waldemarlacekIf you have the tool that is installed in the center of the wheel, you would be taking measurement from top of that tool, hence you need to add 32.5mm so that it is a measure of the center. If you don’t have the tool, you measure from the center of the wheel already so no need to add the radius of the cap (32.5mm). Either method is measuring from center of wheel to fender edge.
@@waldemarlacekthe procedure to calibrate is you always measure center of wheel to fender as described and enter actual values. These values are compared to reference values already in the ECU and then this will introduce the offset calibration to the sensor to take it to normal height. If you are doing this and entering actual values, then the only thing I can think of is that you have a faulty sensor. Is it always one side that is non-compliant? Or are you observing variability in all wheels?
That is the specification per manufacturer. Not any Nitrogen, but high purity nitrogen required (Nitrogen 5). This is a closed system. Assuming they want to ensure low contamination and an inert gas that is not going to promote internal corrosion of parts. But this is my guessing. I got a cylinder of Nitrogen 5 at Linden Gas. They had a shop close to my house.
Bought 2 compressors off of Amazon neither produced air. You could hear it working but no air coming from it. Im waiting on my new compressor from rockauto. Double the price of the past 2.
You know, I initially replaced the compressor with an aftermarket one (shown in video) and it failed after a year. At that point I decided to bite the bullet and buy an OEM one. It’s been the best decision. Running smoothly for over 2 years now.
I’m not sure. The process does call for Nitrogen 5. It is a closed system, so it needs to be filled. Assuming Nitrogen is used to displace humidity and keep internal components corrosion free.
It was a significant learning process. I learned so much about our suspension system that to me, it was worth it. When I take account of what I spent, changing compressor and then the bag, it wasn’t even close to what the dealer was quoting me. And taking into account that they would have replaced the compressor, charge me $3800 and then come back to say that it was not it and charge me probably $2000 to replace the bag… not even close. I had been able to help many others with suspension issues based on what I learned from this experience.
They are Safe Jacks, but I can’t find them anymore in the safejacks.com website. When I got them, I also got the adapters that were made specifically for the Macan. These days, I use QuickJack, and use the Safe Jacks without the adapters and place them under the Quick Jack for triple protection. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video, can you please do a full video on engine mount replacement?
Thanks for watching...I haven't had the need to replace the engine mount...and hopefully I won't have the need to... but if I ever need to, I will certainly record it...
Any chance you could share more details on how to get to the relay?
I hooked a compressor (electrical connections only) to the setup upon suspecting the pump is shot.
Electrically the old pump measures 1.1 ohm and the new one 1.2 ohm.
Even when I turn on the engine and reset PASM error codes I hear the relay click but no 12V goes to the new pump.
( I did hook up the new pump for a brief sec to a 12Vsource and at least it whirred)
That said I suspect the relay is clicking but its not passing that 12V to the pump.
Ive been trying to get to that thing from the drivers side wheel well without success.
Any pointers MUCH MUCH appreciated.
Assuming you are the person I helped in macan forum. But for the benefit of the community, here is the link with the answer to your question: www.macanforum.com/threads/air-suspension-compressor-distribution-valve-replacement-diy-with-santirx-series.188602/#post-2775275
prior to filling with nitrogen, how do you remove as much air as possible from the system?
PIWIS has a routine that bleeds the whole system, in the same menu you use to fill it. The whole process is automated using PIWIS. Just follow instructions. Thanks for watching and subscribe!
Does a 971 Panamera need nitrogen too? Will be replacing the valve block this week.
I’m not sure about the Panamera. If the system has a tank, most likely does run on N2.
Appreciate your experience sharing. By the way, do you know the Porsche Macan Air Suspension is two- or three-chambered ?
I’m not sure. I know that rear suspension are bags. The front are a bit more complex with integrated bags and dampers. I know that later models have 3-chamber air suspension struts. But I don’t know about ours.
hi great video!
followed it step by step
however when we were filling height regulation deactivation is not completing therefore not finishing the fill do you know how to get past that?
thanks
When you raised your car, did you put the car in jack mode by pressing the level button on the center console for 10 seconds or more until message display. Can you make sure that is done? If you have any doors open, that can also prevent from deactivating height regulation, etc…
@@porscheDIYhi thank you for the reply yes we activated jacking mode and closed all the doors etc. we are using an autel diagnostic does it have to be piwis3?
@@MichaelAlvarez-r8w I like to use PIWIS, but even with PIWIS I have found that things get broken with newer versions. Hence for my Macan I always use version 38.250 which is several versions older than the current one. Is more stable and it addresses all issues with my 2015 Macan S. This is something that may hold true with Autel. Can you back-rev your Autel and try again? Meaning, installing an older version of the Porsche software?
Different topic: how difficult would it be to retrofit adaptive cruise control on a Macan? Hard to find one with ALL options and good condition.
I’m not sure, I haven’t done that nor have heard of anyone attempting to do this. I’m sure is doable, but it will not only require that you mount new front sensor, which will include new bumper grille with the opening for the sensor and the wiring. You need to check if the control unit would be the same, most likely different control unit. And then you’ll have to commission and code everything with PIWIS, including Gateway and instrument cluster. That’s what I can say with my experience making other conversions like BiXenon to LED headlights. This conversion didn’t require rewiring, but did require commissioning and coding of modules, which were all different and new.
BTW, it will also require a modification of the steering wheel stall.
Porsche main dealer did it on my Macan Turbo but before my ownership. So it’s doable and it’s been done on my car but no idea how and how much.
hi i accident bleed the system and didn't know it's a close system . would you able to help me with the fitting . some of them is unavailable and also why do we need so many adapter ? will 20 cu/ft cylinder work or i need 40 cu/ft .for some reason it so hard to find high purity nitrogen .
Hi. Sorry to hear. The video description have links to the materials you need to make the hose adapter. Got them from Amazon. A 20cuft N2 cylinder should be OK. I was able to use my 40cuft for like 10 fills… so you should be fine. Good luck! And let us know how it goes.
I got my Nitrogen 5 (high purity) from Linde. You should try there.
@@porscheDIY so from my understanding is the last 2 brass fitting in the links is to create 1/4 NPT male to M10x1 female correct ? the description said something about 3/4" Flare Male to 1/4" NPT Male but the amazon link is 1/4" Flare Male to 1/4" NPT Male
@@zzzly4038 good catch… the description of the fitting is wrong, but the link is the correct one. Is 1/4 flare male to 1/4 NPT male.
I direct copy from Amazon and that is the description in Amazon although you can then select sizing. I corrected it in the video description now.
Thanks for letting me know.
All this is to convert the 1/4” flare female connection of the hose to the M10 female connection needed to connect the front right strut tubing fitting. Which is the one you need to connect to fill the system.
I spent weeks researching this…😊
@@porscheDIY thank you for a quick reply . i can't believe that nobody making this type of an adapter .
@@zzzly4038 Well, I guess you can buy this directly from Porsche but is gonna cost you an arm and a leg.
Is it possible to delete air suspension and code it out?
And is it easy to reinstall and code it in if needed?
I would think that if you were to update the Maintenance of Vehicle Information section in PIWIS and then perform automatic coding of all modules, you could perform an air suspension delete. But I don’t think this is an easy process, whether performing a delete or recoding it.
Will the compressor not fill up the system I have a Macan sitting on the ground and just wondering if it has to be filled or can the compressor just fill it
Thanks
@@mdudz The air suspension system in the Macan is a closed system that uses high purity Nitrogen. Although it has the ability to fill with exterior air if needed (as evidenced with my failure). A couple of questions:
(1) Is your Macan sitting on the ground because you bled the system? Or because you have a leak? Usually if you have a leak in a strut, only one side will drop. You need to have a more universal failure for all 4 corners to drop. Either sensor related or distribution valve.
(2) Is your compressor running? You should be able to hear it. If it runs, you should be able to see your Macan rising. If not, as I said before, you could have level sensor issue.
(3). Did you go through a botched calibration process? That could drop your Macan to the floor if not done properly. It will require several iterations of recalibration to bring it back to normal…
@@porscheDIYso it could be #3 here’s a quick run down on what I did
The car is new to me bought from auction so I don’t know any history when I received it the front was on the ground rear was level
Step 1: I started it and pressed the off road button the rear lifted super high front stayed on ground
Step 2 : I bleed the system using an autel scan tool that’s when the car rear went to the ground since then I wasn’t able to lift it nor do I hear the compressor come on anymore pressing the offroad button does nothing
@@mdudz You’ll have to fill it with high purity nitrogen. It is a closed system. So you will have to use the filling process (I show that in my video). You could get a small tank of HP Nitrogen (or Nitrogen 5) in a praxair store. You could use autel for this procedure. Because you bled the system, there is nothing in the accumulator tank to lift it with. The issue with the front could be sensor related.
@@porscheDIY thank you for the reply I will follow your procedure for refill thanks again
I've got a 2016 Macan and it needed a new front drivers side (RHD) suspension valve. Replaced it and cleared the codes with a Durametric and it poped back up ok. Jacked the front up to finish another job and when I dropped it back down so did the front suspension, now it won't pop back up again even though I can hear the compressor working. Any ideas from your experience with them?
What do you mean with suspension valve? There is a block valve in the same compressor assembly that controls the nitrogen flow to each strut. What exactly did you have to replace?
Its the valve that screws into the top of the suspension strut, it was damaged so I had to get a replacement and when i fitted and reset the codes with a Durametric it poped back up and was fine, then I made the mistake of jacking up the front of the car without turning off the level sensors and now the front is to the ground and I can't get it to go back up!
@@porscheDIY
@@patronageeditions if both front struts are grounded, check front level sensors. Make sure that linkage is still connected. It may have exceeded capacity by trying to relevel while jacked up. If linkage is connected, then I would suspect damaged level sensor. That’s the first thought that comes to mind.
I did check the linkages and they are both ok, but I did notice that one of the sensors had been knocked, so I have ordered a replacement as that was my next thought too. I only have a Durametric and I do have these 2 codes that come up when reading the PASM - 284 (Control position not adjustable, vehcile too high or too low) & 329 (nothing listed for this one!) I think I'd need a PIWIS to know what its telling me!@eDIY
@@patronageeditions when you replace the valve, did you have to empty the whole system? It uses nitrogen. If so, how did you refilled it?
My '17 Macan S had the Suspension Warning light (yellow) come on while driving. I had planned on calling up the dealer the next day to pick their brain on it. Didn't pay enough notice that when I parked it for the night the air suspension compressor was running well after exiting the vehicle and entering the house. The next morning the battery was dead. Jumped the battery and the first thing that came on (besides the car alarm) was the air suspension compressor. I located the fuse for it (40A) and pulled it. Over the next few days the ride height settled pretty even (rear height the same; fronts differed by 1/4"). Took it to the dealer and their tests showed no leaks in the system and said the compressor had a weak output which was causing it to constantly run. With your extensive experience with the system does this add up that the compressor could be faulty in this manner? They want $3070 to replace the compressor. From the dealer below:
"Replace pump for leveling system.
Pump output low causing pump run on. Need to replace and check
functionality of leveling system. No external leaks found at this time.
System holds pressure.
$3,070.13"
It is possible that the compressor is just going bad. It is surprising however that it has not blown the fuse, so it seems is not overloading. If the system is holding pressure (you are not finding your car slumping on one side or anything like that?), therefor le it seems you don’t have a leak in the system. If it is leveling off, it means that sensors are working. I don’t think you have a distribution valve issue based on what you are describing. Therefore, the compressor is suspect. I hope your dealer made a comprehensive diagnostics, but you can always get a second opinion.
The compressor is going to cost you between $1600 to $1800. The rest is labor. It probably would take 3 hours (4 for someone very slow) to change the compressor and recharge the system. Someone with experience could do it in 2. And $3000 sounds about right for a dealer.
I hope you can subscribe to my channel for more content and more discussions. Thanks for watching and thanks for your question. I hope others can chime in on what could be going on in your case.
@@porscheDIY thanks for the reply. I only measured ride height after I pulled the fuse for the compressor. It sits pretty low now with the slight variation in the front height. I do like to tackle most DIY vehicle repairs but this one has me a little hesitant given I do not have any of the tools mentioned in the video description, and I also do not have the PIWIS software/hardware. To obtain all of those, I feel like I'm creeping up towards that $3k to have the dealer perform this. I found quite the range of pricing for the PIWIS. Thoughts?
@@zach_5 So, when the fuse is on, and you leave the car overnight… do you notice any slumping? On any of the struts? In order to tackle this yourself, you need several special tools. It took me about 2 months to get everything I needed. There is the Nitrogen-5 cylinder which I got from Praxair, but it requires a regulator and a hose that needs to be configured with very specific adapters to fit into the right front strut tubing to fill the system. There is also PIWIS, which you can acquire, if you have a computer that meets requirements you can get PIWIS for about $300. About $600 to $700 if you don’t have a computer. You need to have the stands or lift to get safely under the car. And then, standard tools. All in all, including the cost of the compressor and cost of the tools, you will probably be close to Porsche’s cost. The only problem is that, if the compressor is not the issue, the dealer will continue to attempt to get more money from you. I would try to get a second opinion, preferably from a reputable Indy shop. Probably the Indy shop is able to do this at a lower cost. Good luck!
@@porscheDIY It didn't notice it slumped that first morning not till after I removed the fuse and the subsequent evening and next day... My first call went to my indi shop but they let me know they are no longer doing repairs just maintenance work. Big bummer because they have been in that 50-60% range of the dealer cost. Had to let dealer do it due to time constraints this week, but if they come back and say there is xyz problem, I may have to acquire these tools then.
@@zach_5 let us know how it goes.
Do you need to change the air dryer at the same time as the new compressor?
There is no air in the system. It is high purity nitrogen. As far as dryer, it is integrated with the compressor. There is a silica chamber in the compressor itself.
Thank you, so just to understand this a little better, the air suspension does use an intake of air but instead it’s a sealed system with high purity Nitrogen.
@@ravsingh3028 there is no air intake. It is a closed system with high purity nitrogen (Nitrogen 5). The system is filled with Nitrogen using PIWIS as demonstrated in the video. There are a number of parts that composed the system, including the struts/bags, compressor, distribution valve, storage tank and level sensors.
Thanks for the comprehensive reply, really appreciate it.
@@ravsingh3028 Thanks for your support!
Where do I get the software to calibrate the height?
You need PIWIS. It is the Porsche Workshop
Software. Some people sell clone versions of this.
How did you obtain the PIWIS system?
Use following contact to inquire. Reliable source. Email: info@thatcarguy.club
How can someone know it's an airbag leaking and not compressor?
There are tell-tale signs that can point you to the issue depending on what you are seeing without going into a more detailed and technical diagnostics. The suspension system is a closed system filled with high purity nitrogen and is composed of a compressor, a storage tank, 4 air bags (one for each wheel), 4 level sensors (one for each wheel), a valve block and a control unit. Each component is isolated at the valve block level, which means for example, that once an air bag is filled, the in-line valve to the bag closes and retains pressure. You have valves that isolate the storage tank and all air bags. For example, if you want to change a single air bag, you just open valve from air bag to storage tank and the bag will empty to storage tank.
So, if you have a single side of the car slumping all the time, the likelihood is that you have a leaky air bag on that side. If you have strange behavior from a specific suspension corner, going higher or lower, then you might have a level sensor issue. If all the corners slump at the same time, you might have a compressor issue. If your compressor is turning on too frequently, and you are not experiencing slumping in any corner, you might have a compressor issue. Usually the failure mode of the compressor is wear which prevents it from effectively build pressure. Leak in a compressor is not a common failure mode unless plastic components or seals fail. Usually you’ll have a blown fuse for compressor overworking. Fuse is 40A located in the trunk fuse carrier.
Jak wpisałeś wartość do kalibracji, to każde koło było na tej samej wysokości? Ja po wymianie kompresora i rozdzielacza mam każde koło na innej wysokości, i teraz nie wiem co zrobić, czy wpisać rzeczywiste wartości czy wpisać dla wszystkich kół te same parametry?
Always enter actual values for fender to center of wheel measurements. It doesn’t matter what the system says. When you enter actual values, the system is going to compare those actuals against default and will compensate to get you to default height. If you enter values other than what you are measuring, you are running the risk of system interpreting that the car is actually lower or higher than it actually is. Always always use measured values.
Zrobiłem kalibrację zawieszenia (PIWIS III), ale niestety samochód dalej stoi nierówno. Dodatkowo jak chcę przeprowadzić procedurę Height sensor system component test, to otrzymuje błąd 000286 service mode not completed, co z tym problemem zrobić? Jak skasuję kod błędu, znowu mogę wykonać kalibrację zawieszenia, ale nie przynosi to rezultatu z posiomowaniem samochodu@@porscheDIY
Wydaje mi się, że procedura kalibracji zawieszenia przedstawiona przez Ciebie jest nieprawidłowa (może się mylę), ale w instrukcji obsługi na stronie 5487, napisane jest że do wartości którą zmierzymy dodaje się 32,5 mm (jest to promień czujnika). Moje Porsche Macan jest z 2017 roku.
@@waldemarlacekIf you have the tool that is installed in the center of the wheel, you would be taking measurement from top of that tool, hence you need to add 32.5mm so that it is a measure of the center. If you don’t have the tool, you measure from the center of the wheel already so no need to add the radius of the cap (32.5mm). Either method is measuring from center of wheel to fender edge.
@@waldemarlacekthe procedure to calibrate is you always measure center of wheel to fender as described and enter actual values. These values are compared to reference values already in the ECU and then this will introduce the offset calibration to the sensor to take it to normal height. If you are doing this and entering actual values, then the only thing I can think of is that you have a faulty sensor. Is it always one side that is non-compliant? Or are you observing variability in all wheels?
Is it a must use nitrogen instead of air ?
That is the specification per manufacturer. Not any Nitrogen, but high purity nitrogen required (Nitrogen 5). This is a closed system. Assuming they want to ensure low contamination and an inert gas that is not going to promote internal corrosion of parts. But this is my guessing.
I got a cylinder of Nitrogen 5 at Linden Gas. They had a shop close to my house.
Bought 2 compressors off of Amazon neither produced air. You could hear it working but no air coming from it. Im waiting on my new compressor from rockauto. Double the price of the past 2.
You know, I initially replaced the compressor with an aftermarket one (shown in video) and it failed after a year. At that point I decided to bite the bullet and buy an OEM one. It’s been the best decision. Running smoothly for over 2 years now.
If ihavent nitrogen how the prosess will be
I’m not sure. The process does call for Nitrogen 5. It is a closed system, so it needs to be filled. Assuming Nitrogen is used to displace humidity and keep internal components corrosion free.
Dang, that sucks that you invested so much time to find out it was the bag. Actually so much time twice to change the compressor. Great video though
It was a significant learning process. I learned so much about our suspension system that to me, it was worth it. When I take account of what I spent, changing compressor and then the bag, it wasn’t even close to what the dealer was quoting me. And taking into account that they would have replaced the compressor, charge me $3800 and then come back to say that it was not it and charge me probably $2000 to replace the bag… not even close. I had been able to help many others with suspension issues based on what I learned from this experience.
Stealerships making mechanics out of us. Who makes those jack stands?
They are Safe Jacks, but I can’t find them anymore in the safejacks.com website. When I got them, I also got the adapters that were made specifically for the Macan. These days, I use QuickJack, and use the Safe Jacks without the adapters and place them under the Quick Jack for triple protection. Thanks for watching!