That new Fluke was on capacitor measurement as diode measurement is the second mode for which you have to press the yellow button!🤣👏🏻Great video nonetheless!👏🏻
Ron, thank you! I admit missing that connector makes me a noob to fixing these games, but hey that's why we have guys like Ron and Joe that DO know what they are doing, thank you guys again you rock!
Ron, I don't care what anybody else says, I watch, like, subscribe, and share your videos because of your knowledge, experience, and the quality of your repairs; as well as the quality of your videos. I've been an "amateur" electronics engineer since my high school days back in the 80s. I made the "Heath Kits" do things they weren't supposed to do. Just because someone doesn't know the technical terms, or why it was "engineered" a certain way, doesn't mean that they don't understand why or why not it doesn't work. Your knowledge, experience, and expertise is far beyond what you or others may say. Electronics/electricity makes sense to me, and it seems to make sense to you too. It's LOGICAL! So are you! I love watching you diag electronics. You are a very talented individual. PLEASE keep making these videos. You always seem to arrive at the correct conclusion. I would be interested to see if there was something that you couldn't diagnose. We're all learning. Nobody, but an idiot, knows everything. The day I quit learning is the day I'm dead! LONG LIVE RON!
That white oxidation on the new lead-free solder joints is because it had an active flux in it, that has to be completely cleaned off because it's corrosive. If they used no-clean flux it wouln't have corroded. And it-s not a problem with lead-free solder, but with the type of flux. Even leaded solder will corrode with active flux, but it is more common with lead-free solder.
Great job fixing this one. I must say that even though I've never been too interested in pinball (the Jurassic Park table is the only one I've ever played), these videos are very engrossing and it makes me very impressed not only by the remarkable engineering skill it takes to design these machines, but also by the smarts and experience you must have to be able to fix them. Awesome work!
Nice meter! You need to press the yellow button to change modes of the selector switch. Capacitor measurement, Diode mode is in yellow. If you had it on mVAC, the yellow button would change mode to mVDC, Ohms to Beep, etc.... Thanks for another great video Ron!
Yeah you're so entertaining don't let it bother you most of us enjoy watching you repair pinball machines and other video games and clocks and radios and record players
When the glass breaks it rips a hole in the spacetime continuum that some of the pieces go into. Then the bits randomly re-appear back in our universe which is why you cannot find them all and they show up later. 😅 This is vaguely related to how socks disappear from the dryer and come back as coat hangers. 🤥 Another good repair of another really nice game! Thanks for letting us hang out in your shop! 😃
Absolutely a fascinating video. Ron, you have great troubleshooting skills as well as the patience to see “the fix” through to the end. Great instructional videos! I am working my way through your entire fascinating oeuvre. Thank you for taking the time to make each one. Kudos!
Another great watch! Regarding the lead-free solder, the other commenter is right about the issue not being the lead-free aspect, but the fact that they used solder with corrosive flux in it and didn't clean it up afterwards. This can be avoided with lead-free solder that has no clean flux in it. I'm not an expert in solder chemistry, but from what I know, mixing leaded and lead-free solder is likely to lead to cracks down the line, so if working with modern electronics, it's best to use lead-free solder. I have a double spool with leaded and lead-free on it for this reason. I don't like to have a combination of leaded and lead-free on the same board, especially if someone else might need to work on it after me. If you're looking for a great lead-free solder, I'd recommend AIM Glow Core. You can get SN100C or SAC305. These are standard compounds, so you can read about them on your own. I prefer SN100C, but it does require a little bit more heat than SAC305, so you'll want a good iron and a good tip geometry for whatever work you're doing. Most people that complain about lead-free solder are usually trying to use equipment that just isn't up to the task. I've never had a problem with proper gear (I used to work for a high-end boutique ribbon microphone company that makes all of their products by hand, so I was soldering with SN100C 5 days a week). Metcal irons are my irons of choice, but there are plenty of great options out there as I'm sure you know. Funny enough, I've actually found an example where replacing what I assume was leaded solder with lead-free made something more reliable: Sylvania DE3175 festoon bulbs (common in dome lights in cars). I've had several of them develop cold solder between the endcaps and the contacts that go to the actual bulb. Once I figured out what was going on, I desoldered the bulbs, resoldered them with SN100C (have to be quick about it or the glue that attaches the endcaps gives up), and those bulbs never had a problem with premature failure again. Keep up the great videos! I've never worked on a pinball machine before, but the I watch, the more I want to!
The best thing I saw in the older GE and Maxon two-way radios for vehicles was to put in Diodes between the hot and ground right inside the case. They had a fuse in line and another one inside the case. If you accidentally hooked up the power and ground backwards the In-line fuse would blow instantly. Sometimes a person would bypass the fuse and it would blow the fuse inside the case. Back in the 90s I picked up a bunch of VHF single channel and 2 channel crystal radios that people had hooked up backwards. And they bypassed the fuse in-line and it would blow the fuse on the board. In a few cases I found the Diodes were cracked because of the dead short backwards wiring. I was able to easily replace the Diodes and fuses and special ordered the fuses from a company in NJ. Krystal's are very unique and every different radio had a different frequency that it ran at so you needed to have a crystal that was specifically made for the radio that you were going to use it in in order to get the correct frequency Thinking back to the way it was in the 70s, everything was crystals The 80s were just starting to get solid state digital I remember seeing the first Rhelm VHF radio that was 16 channel solid state that you could program it on your frequency and no crystals were needed Seeing the 30 dollar full band Chinese radios, 18 mhz to 1.3 ghz, AM and FM, it is a fantasy of people who were alive in the 70s I keep begging the same factories to design a digital DMR phase 2 scanner The ham radio companies sold a trip band radio for 600 dollars and then 8 years ago China can on the scene and it was the end for all these companies that were making a 10 dollar Radio and getting 590 dollars in pure greed If they start making a scanner the Uniden that costs 900 dollars would be replaced by a 90 dollar Chinese scanner I keep hoping It can be done by using 2 RTL SDR sticks and a computer but I want a real scanner that is handheld to replace the Uniden
Yeah that's a good one. Lucky-lucky that didn't connect the two worst things together! Never trust that internal connectors are properly keyed! I've done it myself too! But that was because they put the red stripe on a 14 pin ribbon cable... not on pin1 but ON PIN 14!! That cable had power and data to a small character LCD display; and I actually burned my finger on the driver IC when I touched it. So I plugged it back in the wrong way and everything was fine. Must be made of good stuff! Also, these pinball motherboards are very interesting looking.
Rectifier diodes like those often dead short with no visible sign of failure. Very few 5V components could take a high current hit like that and not totally fry, so I would have assumed a connector issue or a wire shorted to ground. Just a side note, I used to take the ground lead of the DMM and tuck it under the ground braid to free up one hand (you only need to probe with the + lead)
I'm not sure if your camera can accept it or not but a polarized filter can help with the glare on the glass when you are shooting your test play video.
Yellow shift button on the meter will select the other options for each dial setting. Default where you had it set is capacitors, press yellow to get buzz.
Your video's are very entertaining and Road Kings is my all time favorite pinball machine, I finally own one again! But, the ball should be stopped above the lanes at the top of the playfield, not go right through there to the left side of the playfield. Only when you have multiball and time lock, so you can make the all round shot for mega score and or extra ball. And is has lane change hehe.
OOoh love my Road Kings! Classic simple early Sys 11 machine! Was my entry level drug for pins. Of course that followed by the Banzai then the F14 (Your fault - I even created an "It's broke" list for that project!) and now added an absolutely mint High Speed. All your fault I'm telling you...... ;)) PS Xpin make a grey clear sheet to put over the displays which covers the "white segments" so that you can't see them at all.
I repaired a Funhouse years ago. Every PCB was blown. I got the boards running in a shop tester game and when the techs brought the boards back to the customer's game, they raised the back box and pinched wires fried it all over again
Whatever the cost of this repair was worth every penny, this is the type of repair that can get costly for armatures just throwing parts at it. Sometimes you just need to take it to the shop and let the pros do the repair before you replace half the machine trying to find the problem.
What kills me is when the younger generation talk very highly of the Digital Pinball setups😂. I have played them as well, but nothing will EVER beat a older pinball machine. Sure more to maintain and keep going, but we'll worth it in the long run.
I repaired this machine for a friend.The black plastic ramp was warped from heat and the clear detour left or right ramp was damaged,so he made them out of stainless wire form.Looks the part now.
Kind of lucky that it looks like the 5V on that plug was going straight to speaker ground, so it didn't have a chance to cook any components on the board. They didn't spend a few pennies to key the connector, but could have saved a few pennies by using a 3 pin plug instead of a 4.
Going back and looking at previous shots of the board that cap already had that dent in it, I'd say it looked the same during the pugs out test as it did afterwards.
Hi Ron, Nice video. I see this machine had also left the store before I had a chance to play it. Really enjoyed visiting with you last week and looking forward to the upcoming videos you talked about.
This machine took a lot of my money at the bowling alley. I can't afford to sip that expensive $#!t so ya, we played at the bowling alley arcade a lot. We always had the bartender turn up the volume for us to hear the biker gangs tauntings. I assume he hated listening to it all of the time, so he probably turned it down as soon as we left. This game is really fun. One of my favorites. Thanks again!
I killed the clock board on my Twilight Zone by accidentally plugging the connector in shifted one pin over, it didn't have a key in it either. It sure has a key plug in it now!
Great video Ronnie, I would be nice from the factory if they would label the wires so would know which spot it goes into. Looks great fun and fast. See you on the next video.
How great is this back to back repair videos of games that I own and love! Space invaders and road kings. Look forward to every new repair video. Thanks Ron for filming them.
It's not really relevant to this video but I just got back from playing a cool old Seawitch machine by Stern from 1980. It was fairly simple but it was fun and played fast.
one of those lightbulbs are brighter than the others. You should get one of these 10,000 dollar nasa light meters and check each one . only takes like 15 minutes each bulb to run the diagnostics :)
Looking at the schematics, I see why it blew things. The audio plug is made for carrying extra speaker current. Each side of the speaker uses 2 pins. There are 2 pairs of wires connected together. So if the power is on the end of the power plug and you plug it into the speaker socket, that current will never reach the circuit because the plug itself is shorting it. So you don't even get 5V upstream to the audio amp. There are power dividers upstream, so that might have at least partially mitigated the harm, but the current never got that far. I don't quite get why the capacitor vented itself since a short circuit should mean the capacitor cannot charge. Capacitors would blow from overvoltage or being powered in reverse.
@@LyonsArcade -- Or it could have been dented already. Who knows? The weirdest capacitor failure I've seen was on the Mr. Carlsons's Lab TH-cam channel. He had one that had apparently exploded rather than venting out the top. That seems to be harder to do that. The top is perforated in case something goes wrong to allow for a gentler explosion. But instead, it blew a hole in the side.
@@PlumGurly AIUI modern capacitors have deliberate weaknesses so they fail in a predictable way. Old capacitors (not sure how old sorry) didn't have them and would fail unpredictably. Sometimes launching the entire metal case of the capacitor across the room.
@@petermichaelgreen Yes, but even with the vent, they still vent by other means on rare occasions. I don't get why it made a new hole rather than pop the "lid" when it was scored to fail there.
Ah. The borrowers swapped the cables. Obvious! It would be nice if they colour coded the connections. I think I've seen that before... maybe in fruit machines?
With the new meter, the diode check setting is also capacitor check, and the primary function was capacitor check (it did show nF on the display). If I recall you press the yellow button to get the second function, but it's been a while since I used a Fluke.
If you cannot remove things and you have a short, a sensitive meter would help. Like on an Apple clone computer that had a flaw from the factory. That was a shorted trace. The traces were too close already and then the aging/bending of the board drew the traces closer. So, what can be done is to use a sensitive meter and catch the trace at different places and measure. So if it is more shorted over here than over there, then you know that this end of the board is closer to the actual shorted trace.
1:50, Wavy mylar/paint. In the body shop world, we see a wavy body panel or paint job, we call it a "Friendly panel" or a "Friendly paint job". "Hey, its a friendly paint job". We'd wave back at it as it drives by.
The shiny parts are too shiny... can you hold a sunglass in front of the lens... =P Great video, very helpful for all of us who suffer from where does this dohickey-go-itis... Nobody is immune to random acts of whoopsies...
Thank you for yet another great video! I'm learning a lot and fixing my first pinball (a beautiful JP1993 like the on you fixed earlier and that was singing at the beginning of the video). May I ask a silly question and ask you to show how to remove and reinstall boards, especially those in the top-left corner of the backbox? They're super hard to reach! I know that it's as easy as "unplug, unscrew, remove" but I think I'm missing something silly on how I should phisically approach the backbox on those hard-to-reach places. Or maybe I'm just too short I guess.
Hi, I purchased a working restored blackout and several months later it stopped working. I replaced the MPU, driver board and power board. It worked for a few minutes and stopped working again. On the Pin-pcb board all lights are on except one LED that says blanking. Is there a short im looking for or is it an issue with one of the boards I bought?
You might want to email me I don't always see the replies on here... I'd start by checking your fuses see if one of them has popped. If it did, that will help you narrow down what is causing the game to crash. The new boards regardless of who made them are usually very reliable so I would assume it's something else in the cabinet causing the issue. Your old boards are probably alright or at least easily repairable so you'll have a backup set.
WOW, I think you answered my question about my Tales From the Crypt machines display not working, which I couldn't get a straight answer out of anyone so far yet, until watching this vid now! I'm now certain that battery corrosion is what screwed up the traces or chips that run the DMD... I suspected this, but couldn't get a reply from anyone really, as to which area of the board would cause this sort of thing. I really didn't want to, but I guess I'll have to take that whole board out and clean it up, and see what happens from there. It was cutting in and out when the problem started, then it just completely crapped out the one day and never worked again... Anyway, thanks for the vids man, they are AWESOME!!!
Yes all the display lines run just below the batteries, if you take the battery holder off there will be a bunch of corrosion shorting the lines together or if it's enough, it'll even break the lines in half. You'll need to get out the schematics and test each line from where it comes out of the 6821 "PIA" chip, to the connector where the ribbon cable plugs in. Some of them probably aren't connected anymore... very common on System 11 stuff (or Data East, which is a copy basically)
@@LyonsArcade OMG THANK YOU for this reply!!!! It's been about 4 years since this happened, and I poked around in there a few times and just gave up until a later time... I even bought a color DMD for it, which has power, but no signal from the corroded board. You have no idea how much of a relief this is for me to hear! Thank you!
Because they mounted everything on the board. Nothing ever mounts the batteries off the board, your t.v. remote, toys, radios, anything that takes batteries they mount it on the board
The playfield was to the wood in the middle so I repainted it and then cleared it but the clear fish eyed really bad, so I sanded it down and cleared it again, It did better the 2nd time but there were some places that were still busting out so I flowed them as best I could, after letting it all dry for over a week I put a mylar on top to help level it out, It plays pretty good.
Actually that doesn't make my life easier. I have four sets of alligator clip converters. So in your scenario, I have to set the camera down, walk to the other side of the building, get the alligator clip converters, install them, set the shot up, and then start filming. In my scenario, I turn the camera on and start filming. The difference is, you like it the first way, I like it the second way. If you need better production value you need to watch somebody else, I'm going to keep doing things you think are stupid, because I do things the way I want to do them.
@@LyonsArcade Holy shit, from your tone I'm guessing this is Joe and not Ronnie? I wasn't making a negative comment I was just trying to say if you didn't have these it would make things easier, I work on radios and valve amps and didn't realise these were a thing until a couple of years ago and have been a life saver. I guess I'll just skip your videos altogether from now on.
One of these days Joe is going to surprise you Ron...He's going to leave a 10 page ultra detailed list of "issues"...and it won't be "It's Broke". One day...one day he will.
TH-cam Comments rule #1: Bitch and complain about everything even though they would likely screw it up royally. Rule 2: Tell the TH-camr that you are incompetent and that he/she is better in every way even though they would foul up a 1 car parade. Rule 3: Just shout insults at you right before their shift at McDonalds if they even work at all.
Back in the 80's, I was an audiophile, and built car systems that were 3000 watts of pure thump! My last car system had a speaker box that was isobaric and filled the entire back seat. It had 4-18" dual wound low impedance subwoofers cranking around 127db. This thing had way to much to list here, but I will say that it would flex the windows on the car and roll down the windows. No I am not black LOL!
So it looks like someone overdid it with the clear coat on the playfield. I know you don't want to show how you apply it to your machines, because you think it is so simple it needs no explanation. Then you are also sick of all the negative comments from those that would say "I wouldn't have done it that way!" But this is what I am terrified of doing -- applying the clear-coat wrong or too heavily so that it ruins the machine. Please ignore the naysayers and show us at least once in a future repair how YOU apply clear-coat to an area of the playfield. Pretty please! I come here to learn how YOU do things, not some random on the internet criticizing everything.
To survive on TH-cam you gotta let some of the wackadoodle background noise just roll off of you. There is no way to please everyone. Just stay true to your core style and audience.
@@LyonsArcadeA short to ground on another board would not "fry a capacitor" on that voltage rail. It would bring the rail to close to 0V and that's all the cap would see. Also with your new Fluke, when you select a function you get what the white label shows (in your case capacitance). The yellow function on the dial is accessed by pressing the yellow button.
That new Fluke was on capacitor measurement as diode measurement is the second mode for which you have to press the yellow button!🤣👏🏻Great video nonetheless!👏🏻
Ron, thank you! I admit missing that connector makes me a noob to fixing these games, but hey that's why we have guys like Ron and Joe that DO know what they are doing, thank you guys again you rock!
I misssd it too, don’t feel bad!
Ron, I don't care what anybody else says, I watch, like, subscribe, and share your videos because of your knowledge, experience, and the quality of your repairs; as well as the quality of your videos. I've been an "amateur" electronics engineer since my high school days back in the 80s. I made the "Heath Kits" do things they weren't supposed to do. Just because someone doesn't know the technical terms, or why it was "engineered" a certain way, doesn't mean that they don't understand why or why not it doesn't work. Your knowledge, experience, and expertise is far beyond what you or others may say. Electronics/electricity makes sense to me, and it seems to make sense to you too. It's LOGICAL! So are you! I love watching you diag electronics. You are a very talented individual. PLEASE keep making these videos. You always seem to arrive at the correct conclusion. I would be interested to see if there was something that you couldn't diagnose. We're all learning. Nobody, but an idiot, knows everything. The day I quit learning is the day I'm dead! LONG LIVE RON!
Absolutely. Such a great vid. And a Road king is next on my list to fix. Awesome video Ron
That white oxidation on the new lead-free solder joints is because it had an active flux in it, that has to be completely cleaned off because it's corrosive. If they used no-clean flux it wouln't have corroded. And it-s not a problem with lead-free solder, but with the type of flux. Even leaded solder will corrode with active flux, but it is more common with lead-free solder.
It's pretty much the simplest thing that causes the most problems! Good vid!!
The customer is gonna be a very happy with his machines. They both rock now. …. a nice long video on this one too.
Great job fixing this one. I must say that even though I've never been too interested in pinball (the Jurassic Park table is the only one I've ever played), these videos are very engrossing and it makes me very impressed not only by the remarkable engineering skill it takes to design these machines, but also by the smarts and experience you must have to be able to fix them. Awesome work!
Nice meter! You need to press the yellow button to change modes of the selector switch. Capacitor measurement, Diode mode is in yellow. If you had it on mVAC, the yellow button would change mode to mVDC, Ohms to Beep, etc.... Thanks for another great video Ron!
Another great game! Thanks for filming it for us!
Yeah you're so entertaining don't let it bother you most of us enjoy watching you repair pinball machines and other video games and clocks and radios and record players
One of the things I loved about Williams pinball of that era is the little green arrows telling what to do next! Live those machines!
I’m a snooty EM purist, but you make fixing electronics look very doable. Great video.
I like the EM's more too don't tell anybody :)
Something about circuitry and electrical engineering always tends to brings out the know-it-alls. Lol
When the glass breaks it rips a hole in the spacetime continuum that some of the pieces go into. Then the bits randomly re-appear back in our universe which is why you cannot find them all and they show up later. 😅
This is vaguely related to how socks disappear from the dryer and come back as coat hangers. 🤥
Another good repair of another really nice game! Thanks for letting us hang out in your shop! 😃
Your videos always brightens my day. Thank you!
Absolutely a fascinating video. Ron, you have great troubleshooting skills as well as the patience to see “the fix” through to the end.
Great instructional videos! I am working my way through your entire fascinating oeuvre.
Thank you for taking the time to make each one. Kudos!
I have a Road Kings with a power supply (Data East) that has a burned out connection. Great video for learning more about my machine. Thank you.
Ron you are so good at fixing arcade equipment ... you do it with one hand tied behind your back. (Well holding your camera).
Man forget other people we pinheads love your videos. Keep up the good work.
This game looks awesome. Great job on demonstrating your knowledge of repair and these systems.
AWESOME game great job RON
Another great watch!
Regarding the lead-free solder, the other commenter is right about the issue not being the lead-free aspect, but the fact that they used solder with corrosive flux in it and didn't clean it up afterwards. This can be avoided with lead-free solder that has no clean flux in it. I'm not an expert in solder chemistry, but from what I know, mixing leaded and lead-free solder is likely to lead to cracks down the line, so if working with modern electronics, it's best to use lead-free solder. I have a double spool with leaded and lead-free on it for this reason. I don't like to have a combination of leaded and lead-free on the same board, especially if someone else might need to work on it after me.
If you're looking for a great lead-free solder, I'd recommend AIM Glow Core. You can get SN100C or SAC305. These are standard compounds, so you can read about them on your own. I prefer SN100C, but it does require a little bit more heat than SAC305, so you'll want a good iron and a good tip geometry for whatever work you're doing. Most people that complain about lead-free solder are usually trying to use equipment that just isn't up to the task. I've never had a problem with proper gear (I used to work for a high-end boutique ribbon microphone company that makes all of their products by hand, so I was soldering with SN100C 5 days a week). Metcal irons are my irons of choice, but there are plenty of great options out there as I'm sure you know.
Funny enough, I've actually found an example where replacing what I assume was leaded solder with lead-free made something more reliable: Sylvania DE3175 festoon bulbs (common in dome lights in cars). I've had several of them develop cold solder between the endcaps and the contacts that go to the actual bulb. Once I figured out what was going on, I desoldered the bulbs, resoldered them with SN100C (have to be quick about it or the glue that attaches the endcaps gives up), and those bulbs never had a problem with premature failure again.
Keep up the great videos! I've never worked on a pinball machine before, but the I watch, the more I want to!
nice job , those connectors should be color coded
The best thing I saw in the older GE and Maxon two-way radios for vehicles was to put in Diodes between the hot and ground right inside the case. They had a fuse in line and another one inside the case.
If you accidentally hooked up the power and ground backwards the In-line fuse would blow instantly.
Sometimes a person would bypass the fuse and it would blow the fuse inside the case.
Back in the 90s I picked up a bunch of VHF single channel and 2 channel crystal radios that people had hooked up backwards.
And they bypassed the fuse in-line and it would blow the fuse on the board.
In a few cases I found the Diodes were cracked because of the dead short backwards wiring.
I was able to easily replace the Diodes and fuses and special ordered the fuses from a company in NJ.
Krystal's are very unique and every different radio had a different frequency that it ran at so you needed to have a crystal that was specifically made for the radio that you were going to use it in in order to get the correct frequency
Thinking back to the way it was in the 70s, everything was crystals
The 80s were just starting to get solid state digital
I remember seeing the first Rhelm VHF radio that was 16 channel solid state that you could program it on your frequency and no crystals were needed
Seeing the 30 dollar full band Chinese radios, 18 mhz to 1.3 ghz, AM and FM, it is a fantasy of people who were alive in the 70s
I keep begging the same factories to design a digital DMR phase 2 scanner
The ham radio companies sold a trip band radio for 600 dollars and then 8 years ago China can on the scene and it was the end for all these companies that were making a 10 dollar Radio and getting 590 dollars in pure greed
If they start making a scanner the Uniden that costs 900 dollars would be replaced by a 90 dollar Chinese scanner
I keep hoping
It can be done by using 2 RTL SDR sticks and a computer but I want a real scanner that is handheld to replace the Uniden
Great video! Like your troubleshooting methodology!!!
Yeah that's a good one. Lucky-lucky that didn't connect the two worst things together! Never trust that internal connectors are properly keyed! I've done it myself too! But that was because they put the red stripe on a 14 pin ribbon cable... not on pin1 but ON PIN 14!! That cable had power and data to a small character LCD display; and I actually burned my finger on the driver IC when I touched it. So I plugged it back in the wrong way and everything was fine. Must be made of good stuff!
Also, these pinball motherboards are very interesting looking.
Rectifier diodes like those often dead short with no visible sign of failure. Very few 5V components could take a high current hit like that and not totally fry, so I would have assumed a connector issue or a wire shorted to ground. Just a side note, I used to take the ground lead of the DMM and tuck it under the ground braid to free up one hand (you only need to probe with the + lead)
nice job. i own the same machine, i will add fuses to my bridges. thank you.
I'm not sure if your camera can accept it or not but a polarized filter can help with the glare on the glass when you are shooting your test play video.
Yellow shift button on the meter will select the other options for each dial setting. Default where you had it set is capacitors, press yellow to get buzz.
I love watching and learning from these pinball videos 😍
Your video's are very entertaining and Road Kings is my all time favorite pinball machine, I finally own one again! But, the ball should be stopped above the lanes at the top of the playfield, not go right through there to the left side of the playfield. Only when you have multiball and time lock, so you can make the all round shot for mega score and or extra ball. And is has lane change hehe.
OOoh love my Road Kings! Classic simple early Sys 11 machine! Was my entry level drug for pins. Of course that followed by the Banzai then the F14 (Your fault - I even created an "It's broke" list for that project!) and now added an absolutely mint High Speed. All your fault I'm telling you...... ;)) PS Xpin make a grey clear sheet to put over the displays which covers the "white segments" so that you can't see them at all.
nice repair..excellent job!
I repaired a Funhouse years ago. Every PCB was blown. I got the boards running in a shop tester game and when the techs brought the boards back to the customer's game, they raised the back box and pinched wires fried it all over again
Ronnie, I feel like you need to apologize to the sound board for accusing it of trying to murder the power supply.
This is not a safe space Mario’s Right Nut
Whatever the cost of this repair was worth every penny, this is the type of repair that can get costly for armatures just throwing parts at it. Sometimes you just need to take it to the shop and let the pros do the repair before you replace half the machine trying to find the problem.
What kills me is when the younger generation talk very highly of the Digital Pinball setups😂. I have played them as well, but nothing will EVER beat a older pinball machine. Sure more to maintain and keep going, but we'll worth it in the long run.
I repaired this machine for a friend.The black plastic ramp was warped from heat and the clear detour left or right ramp was damaged,so he made them out of stainless wire form.Looks the part now.
Great video!
Kind of lucky that it looks like the 5V on that plug was going straight to speaker ground, so it didn't have a chance to cook any components on the board. They didn't spend a few pennies to key the connector, but could have saved a few pennies by using a 3 pin plug instead of a 4.
I thought the capacitor looked bad before you started..... I don't think you cooked it.... You are a good diagnosticator!
Going back and looking at previous shots of the board that cap already had that dent in it, I'd say it looked the same during the pugs out test as it did afterwards.
Hi Ron, Nice video. I see this machine had also left the store before I had a chance to play it. Really enjoyed visiting with you last week and looking forward to the upcoming videos you talked about.
Its like a detective story, tracking down the short
There are many LED Displays for Pinballs now including XPin, Pinscore, PinLED, Rottendog, and others.
This machine took a lot of my money at the bowling alley. I can't afford to sip that expensive $#!t so ya, we played at the bowling alley arcade a lot. We always had the bartender turn up the volume for us to hear the biker gangs tauntings. I assume he hated listening to it all of the time, so he probably turned it down as soon as we left. This game is really fun. One of my favorites. Thanks again!
Awesome thanks
I killed the clock board on my Twilight Zone by accidentally plugging the connector in shifted one pin over, it didn't have a key in it either. It sure has a key plug in it now!
Use 2nd Fuction... Yellow is Diode, Default white is Capacitence.
Thank you!
Great video Ronnie, I would be nice from the factory if they would label the wires so would know which spot it goes into. Looks great fun and fast. See you on the next video.
How great is this back to back repair videos of games that I own and love! Space invaders and road kings. Look forward to every new repair video. Thanks Ron for filming them.
It's not really relevant to this video but I just got back from playing a cool old Seawitch machine by Stern from 1980. It was fairly simple but it was fun and played fast.
Why does the flipper coils have a separate flipper power supply board?
one of those lightbulbs are brighter than the others. You should get one of these 10,000 dollar nasa light meters and check each one . only takes like 15 minutes each bulb to run the diagnostics :)
Looking at the schematics, I see why it blew things. The audio plug is made for carrying extra speaker current. Each side of the speaker uses 2 pins. There are 2 pairs of wires connected together. So if the power is on the end of the power plug and you plug it into the speaker socket, that current will never reach the circuit because the plug itself is shorting it. So you don't even get 5V upstream to the audio amp. There are power dividers upstream, so that might have at least partially mitigated the harm, but the current never got that far.
I don't quite get why the capacitor vented itself since a short circuit should mean the capacitor cannot charge. Capacitors would blow from overvoltage or being powered in reverse.
The capacitor may have been fine, I heard something hissing and it had a dent in it so I assumed it was frying…
@@LyonsArcade -- Or it could have been dented already. Who knows?
The weirdest capacitor failure I've seen was on the Mr. Carlsons's Lab TH-cam channel. He had one that had apparently exploded rather than venting out the top. That seems to be harder to do that. The top is perforated in case something goes wrong to allow for a gentler explosion. But instead, it blew a hole in the side.
@@PlumGurly AIUI modern capacitors have deliberate weaknesses so they fail in a predictable way. Old capacitors (not sure how old sorry) didn't have them and would fail unpredictably. Sometimes launching the entire metal case of the capacitor across the room.
@@petermichaelgreen Yes, but even with the vent, they still vent by other means on rare occasions. I don't get why it made a new hole rather than pop the "lid" when it was scored to fail there.
I always use a marker and draw some lines, so i don't mix them up.
Looks like a fun pinball game, would love to play it one day.
It is not a fun game...
This one is going to be a brain stormer
Ah. The borrowers swapped the cables. Obvious! It would be nice if they colour coded the connections. I think I've seen that before... maybe in fruit machines?
With the new meter, the diode check setting is also capacitor check, and the primary function was capacitor check (it did show nF on the display). If I recall you press the yellow button to get the second function, but it's been a while since I used a Fluke.
If you cannot remove things and you have a short, a sensitive meter would help. Like on an Apple clone computer that had a flaw from the factory. That was a shorted trace. The traces were too close already and then the aging/bending of the board drew the traces closer. So, what can be done is to use a sensitive meter and catch the trace at different places and measure. So if it is more shorted over here than over there, then you know that this end of the board is closer to the actual shorted trace.
It took me a minute, but this music reminds me of music from Road Rash, and oddly enough, they are both motorcycle games
I did love the vid heck the nay sayers
Its magical smoke.
1:50, Wavy mylar/paint. In the body shop world, we see a wavy body panel or paint job, we call it a "Friendly panel" or a "Friendly paint job". "Hey, its a friendly paint job". We'd wave back at it as it drives by.
ron, i see an aztec close by, did you do a video on that one?
Hey Ron!!
Fuses are like people hugh!
Couldn’t wait to click on this. Saw this one in the wild but never put any quarters in it sadly.
That looks like a high temp capacitor.
I am thinking a 5 volt regulator is blown
What about relocating the battery?
Great job Ron! Thanks for doing what you do.
LOL the whining complaint voice!!!!! LOL
The shiny parts are too shiny... can you hold a sunglass in front of the lens... =P
Great video, very helpful for all of us who suffer from where does this dohickey-go-itis...
Nobody is immune to random acts of whoopsies...
Thank you for yet another great video! I'm learning a lot and fixing my first pinball (a beautiful JP1993 like the on you fixed earlier and that was singing at the beginning of the video). May I ask a silly question and ask you to show how to remove and reinstall boards, especially those in the top-left corner of the backbox? They're super hard to reach! I know that it's as easy as "unplug, unscrew, remove" but I think I'm missing something silly on how I should phisically approach the backbox on those hard-to-reach places. Or maybe I'm just too short I guess.
8:43.
BATTERIES !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Are you a bad enough fuse to save the circuit?
I have a potential distant memory of once playing this game.
Hi, I purchased a working restored blackout and several months later it stopped working. I replaced the MPU, driver board and power board. It worked for a few minutes and stopped working again. On the Pin-pcb board all lights are on except one LED that says blanking. Is there a short im looking for or is it an issue with one of the boards I bought?
You might want to email me I don't always see the replies on here... I'd start by checking your fuses see if one of them has popped. If it did, that will help you narrow down what is causing the game to crash. The new boards regardless of who made them are usually very reliable so I would assume it's something else in the cabinet causing the issue. Your old boards are probably alright or at least easily repairable so you'll have a backup set.
Don't some of the pinball machines have a magnet to shorten the games?
WOW, I think you answered my question about my Tales From the Crypt machines display not working, which I couldn't get a straight answer out of anyone so far yet, until watching this vid now!
I'm now certain that battery corrosion is what screwed up the traces or chips that run the DMD...
I suspected this, but couldn't get a reply from anyone really, as to which area of the board would cause this sort of thing.
I really didn't want to, but I guess I'll have to take that whole board out and clean it up, and see what happens from there.
It was cutting in and out when the problem started, then it just completely crapped out the one day and never worked again...
Anyway, thanks for the vids man, they are AWESOME!!!
Yes all the display lines run just below the batteries, if you take the battery holder off there will be a bunch of corrosion shorting the lines together or if it's enough, it'll even break the lines in half. You'll need to get out the schematics and test each line from where it comes out of the 6821 "PIA" chip, to the connector where the ribbon cable plugs in. Some of them probably aren't connected anymore... very common on System 11 stuff (or Data East, which is a copy basically)
@@LyonsArcade OMG THANK YOU for this reply!!!!
It's been about 4 years since this happened, and I poked around in there a few times and just gave up until a later time...
I even bought a color DMD for it, which has power, but no signal from the corroded board.
You have no idea how much of a relief this is for me to hear!
Thank you!
"Wine drinkers". 🤣
Raises hand: I'm here, reporting in!
Well you know, if you adjusted the right doohikkey, then the left whosiwhatsit would be fine XD
Ron has the power!
How do you remove the humming sound on the audio ?
We don’t
Why don’t they mount the batteries off the board?
Because they mounted everything on the board. Nothing ever mounts the batteries off the board, your t.v. remote, toys, radios, anything that takes batteries they mount it on the board
That surface looks like maybe someone did an epoxy pour on it?
The playfield was to the wood in the middle so I repainted it and then cleared it but the clear fish eyed really bad, so I sanded it down and cleared it again, It did better the 2nd time but there were some places that were still busting out so I flowed them as best I could, after letting it all dry for over a week I put a mylar on top to help level it out, It plays pretty good.
Yodelayheehoo
Get yourself a pair of multimeter probe to alligator clip converters if you can. Will make your life easier, especially with camera in hand.
Actually that doesn't make my life easier. I have four sets of alligator clip converters. So in your scenario, I have to set the camera down, walk to the other side of the building, get the alligator clip converters, install them, set the shot up, and then start filming.
In my scenario, I turn the camera on and start filming.
The difference is, you like it the first way, I like it the second way. If you need better production value you need to watch somebody else, I'm going to keep doing things you think are stupid, because I do things the way I want to do them.
@@LyonsArcade Holy shit, from your tone I'm guessing this is Joe and not Ronnie? I wasn't making a negative comment I was just trying to say if you didn't have these it would make things easier, I work on radios and valve amps and didn't realise these were a thing until a couple of years ago and have been a life saver. I guess I'll just skip your videos altogether from now on.
Try your best to ignore these cry kids do what you do best, know how and what works
One of these days Joe is going to surprise you Ron...He's going to leave a 10 page ultra detailed list of "issues"...and it won't be "It's Broke". One day...one day he will.
TH-cam Comments rule #1: Bitch and complain about everything even though they would likely screw it up royally. Rule 2: Tell the TH-camr that you are incompetent and that he/she is better in every way even though they would foul up a 1 car parade. Rule 3: Just shout insults at you right before their shift at McDonalds if they even work at all.
Back in the 80's, I was an audiophile, and built car systems that were 3000 watts of pure thump! My last car system had a speaker box that was isobaric and filled the entire back seat. It had 4-18" dual wound low impedance subwoofers cranking around 127db. This thing had way to much to list here, but I will say that it would flex the windows on the car and roll down the windows. No I am not black LOL!
So it looks like someone overdid it with the clear coat on the playfield. I know you don't want to show how you apply it to your machines, because you think it is so simple it needs no explanation. Then you are also sick of all the negative comments from those that would say "I wouldn't have done it that way!" But this is what I am terrified of doing -- applying the clear-coat wrong or too heavily so that it ruins the machine. Please ignore the naysayers and show us at least once in a future repair how YOU apply clear-coat to an area of the playfield. Pretty please! I come here to learn how YOU do things, not some random on the internet criticizing everything.
To survive on TH-cam you gotta let some of the wackadoodle background noise just roll off of you. There is no way to please everyone. Just stay true to your core style and audience.
Die Duracell Batterien sind der größte Sch...s!
You lied, it wasn't fried
It was frying the capacitor on the power supply board, I would never lie. Apologize
@@LyonsArcadeA short to ground on another board would not "fry a capacitor" on that voltage rail. It would bring the rail to close to 0V and that's all the cap would see.
Also with your new Fluke, when you select a function you get what the white label shows (in your case capacitance). The yellow function on the dial is accessed by pressing the yellow button.
@@LyonsArcadeYeah, you're right, my bad
Jesus... buy a tripod 😮
I'm not Jesus
Aztec should not have all those 455 bulbs in the title though.