sometimes this issue - especially on older vehicles like these - can be corrected with a LED flasher instead of resistors. I like the new flasher more because you don't have to alter the wiring much and you gain electrical efficiency.
You can either do a flasher module or relay old vehicles use relay and very simple switching new vehicles because apparently the clicking annoyed people. Now they use this all electric circuit. Vs simple relay but again both systems are easy to fix the flasher unit and relay have essentially the same job blink the circuit and the lever is a simple on off switch the parts that are sensitive to load are the flasher or relay and when handed a much lower load than expected causes them to switch faster because the amps they are getting are higher. So old vehicle get led relay new vehicle find the flashing unit and get a led ready one for your particular vehicle.
There is an easier way. -Remove the flasher relay -open it by removing the cover -thin out the width of the metallic strip with a dremel or a small file. remove small amounts -Try and repeat
When I upgraded the taillights on my S10 Blazer, I changed the flasher relay from the original analog unit to a solid state digital relay. Solved the hyper flashing issue for me.
I have had amazing results with Zevo Sylvania Led Bulbs from autozone have had all bulbs replaced in my 2000 4runner for last 8 years and zevo leds still going strong bought a whole set for my second 2000 4rummer I just bought 2 weeks ago @EricTheCarGuy
Theres no dedicated brake light on a 7-way trailer connector. There is a trailer brake wire ran off of the brake controller that provides higher voltage depending on settings on the controller. Your hitch plug light is connected to the right turn signal wire in the plug. You would need a 2-wire to 3-wire taillight converter to give you a separate brake light only wire.
I certainly would suggest going back in and mounting those resistors directly to the sheet metal body panel nice and tight with screws. In fact, I'd recommend putting CPU thermal paste between the resistor and the sheet metal too. Those resistors get very hot. The heat sink fins are useless in there with no air flow. The 3M adhesive pad is insulating the resistor from a very convenient, HUGE heat sink which is the metal body panel. Paint or FluidFilm the screw points to rust proof them.
I have a 94’ GMC 1500 SL with the 4.3. Your videos have been more than helpful and a great resource center with many of the issues I’ve had with mine. Thanks and keep up the great work.
I laughed about that too. I do disagree with him about not upgrading to LEDs though, because I WANT my turn signals and brake lights to be extra bright and spilling light everywhere. They're not like headlights. Turn signals and brake lights should be obnoxious. He is right about being careful about brightness though. Some LEDs are too dim, don't have a good major/minor ratio, or don't play nice with the car's circuitry.
I also disagreed with Alec’s assessment of LED bulbs. Modern COB LED tower bulbs with 27+ chips will be at least as bright or brighter than stock. But I do agree with others that an electronic replacement flasher is the best bet instead of resistors. That’s how I upgraded both my Integra and Miata. My CX5 has the flasher built into the ECU, so my solution was to use bulbs with built in resistors, which are absolutely stupid bright!
@@Patrick94GSR It all depends on the lights on the vehicle in combination with the specific LEDs used, some may work, most won´t. Seems to be easier here in Germany (and most of Europe). So far no one, not even the big brands like Osram, offer replacement LED bulbs. You get some on Amazon, but here all automotive parts which are related to certain safety or environment relevant parts of the car have to have an ECE (European version) or KBA (German variant of the ECE) number stamped on or have to provide a written certificate of conformity. Otherwise you would void the vehicles operating permit (same as if you severely fail the biannual safety inspection "HU" commonly referred to as TÜV). And looking at that, there seem to be no LED replacements which have an ECE number. One manufacturer rather recently put some LED lights as replacement for either H4 or H7 bulbs in the Headlights into the market. But really only one brand so far and to this point they got certified only for a limited number of car models. They can not yet be used as a generic replacement (which I think as specific and standardized those headlight bulbs are, will only be a matter of time until they have been kind of crosschecked with a certain number of different models and headlight types.) So it is easier in the sense that here it clearly is just illegal to put LEDs in (at this point of time) and the vehicle would actually be shut down by the police and a complete inspection and repair would be mandated. Only after fixing the issue and getting it inspected the vehicle would regain an operating permit. Would it work that well to just replace them, I am convinced the big brands around here, Phillips, Osram, Bosch, Hella, would have got some products out already that fulfilled all ECE requirements and could legally be used as replacement. But as we don´t get any for years now, I think I go with what Alec said as there must be a reason that it just not happened. Despite this getting less and less relevant with newer cars having LED lights, at least in the back, nevertheless. For stock headlights LED has replaced halogen bulbs either in higher priced cars completely or can be ordered as an pricey option. At least they seem to have made Xenon lights obsolete in new cars. I bet this sounds harsh to some in the US, well at least in some states where there are no inspections or you might pass an inspection as long as you have some brakes and lights in a somewhat working condition. But we are glad to know that there is an almost 100 % chance of other vehicles around being roadworthy and they will not start disintegrating in front of me at 160 km/h on the Autobahn.
OR you could just replace the old thermal flasher module with an electronic one and save the power waste and heat generation of adding the resistor. And if you want stock again the electronic flasher will work for that as well. Simple with no heat and no excess power usage.
My old 1963 Ford tractor was original with a 6 volt generator set up. Last year I converted to 12 volt alternator. Went ahead and changed all the light bulbs to LED. Brought it into the 21st century, and I can see much better with them
Thank you for not doing the clichéd LED strip on the tailgate. The new tails look fine and I do like me some GMT400 vids. Folks should keep in mind that if a curious officer ever looks at them closely it'll be revealed they aren't D.O.T compliant. Are they just as good? Sure. Are they designed as drop-in OEM replacements? Yep. But that won't matter if the cop gets nosy and doesn't see the text imprinted on the lens. Just something to be aware of.
@@eivis13 No need to worry about adding a resistor. Adding the resistor also adds a heat source that wasn't designed to be mitigated. There have been cases where fires have been started from resistors installed for LED conversions. Swapping out a $46 relay took care of the hyperflashing in my '03 Suburban. The hardest part was getting my fat body in position to find the old one and get it.
yeah LMC truck has led flasher modules for all American made trucks. Considering most car makers use the same ones in all their vehicle you can use then in other vehicles.
@@northerncowboy8409 seems like a fire would mostly be a rist from running much more resistance than originally designed for. just need to probe the old bulb and see how much resistance it has and install a corresponding resistor and mitigate extra strain on the circuit
@EricTheCarGuy I love watching you do stuff like this on your truck because I remember figuring this stuff out the hard way when I was a young teenager getting into "truck mods" on my 91 Chevy. It's part of the reason I've followed your videos so closely, actually. What would be awesome to see next is a video of you doing the double-high beams (or Bambi mod.) I've done it on just about every vehicle I've ever owned because I drive a lot at night and the deer are rampant where I live. Maybe not something necessary for you, but I think it would be excellent "technical content." Keep up the excellent content!
@@Dumbass_mechanic I have a 1998 that all we (my son and I) had to do was get an electronic flasher, works fine. No BCM on it. I added LED's turns on the front as well, even interior lights too.
As stated, the better solution is to just replace the flasher relay with an electronic version. Then you don't have to mess with resistors, or deal with the heat they generate - especially on vehicles where the brake/turn bulb also operates as a running light.
Agreed. On this old GM era product, it's less than $10 and mere seconds to swap in the fuse box Something more modern where the flasher isn't serviced separately, resistors are the method of last resort I'm not saying it's not a bad job Eric, it's just you put yourself through a lot of extra work They look cool though
@@ericthecarguy Eric I love your work but this is a bad take. That tape will get hot and fall off. Most adhesives hate heat. You can have an LED flasher in the cab where it's nice and relatively dry.
I recommend using the Error Free CAN BUS LED's that prevent hyperflash instead of using resistors for a few reasons: 1. Resistors can be a fire hazard since they get so hot and/or damage plastic components such as housings or bumpers (of course this all depends on the installation location). 2. There may not be enough room for resistors behind the housings. 3. Resistors create 2 additional wiring connections and an extra component that can all be points of failure. 4. As you mentioned, they may not be suitable for the electrical systems in newer cars.
I always replace the blinker replay with a led relay before I install tail light and reverse and blinker bulbs in the rear nice work Eric @EricTheCarGuy
Zevo LEDs are the best I've ever used! I have my 96 Integra and 07 TL-S all LED, switchbacks in the front with flasher relays. Zevos are the brightest, best looking red I've been able to find. Lots of others I tried were too dim in direct sunlight.
Zevos work really well for more modern reflector style lights, but not so well for the older style lights where the "reflector" is dull silver and most of the light output is directed and magnified by the lens.
@@averyw.3939 I do suppose that's true, I can see that for sure. The Integra having such a long surface area taillight definitely had me checking various brands but Zevo still offered the best light output and truest looking red. I had some similar to what he used in the truck with a "projector" on the end prior to that, the Phillips branded ones, and some other offbrand eBay junk and they all were real dim and more of a washed out pinkish red color and hard to see in the sun so I'm biased 😂
@@DesiD92 Yeah there’s a lot of junk out there, Zevos are almost always good, especially on more modern vehicles. If I can I try to find complete LED tail light housings, then you can go for the blackout look, not for everyone but I like it.
On older cars that have a flasher relay, you do NOT need resistors. Simply get a LED flasher relay and done. On newer cars that have a bcm controller turn signal, you need load resistors.
@@MegaErick2007 probably, wild guess is 2000. Some cars got bcm signals earlier than that (mopar minivans, mopars in general) some cars kept turn relays later than 2000 like bmws. Open your fusebox, it will either have a turn relay or not.
I am about to do this on my 88 s-10, this video was perfect timing. You have now opened a can of worms doing the tail lights because now you need to do the license plate bulb LED’s and match the front marker lights. Maybe the interior bulbs too. If you do, please make a video for that also. 😀
Just a PSA for those of you with newer vehicles that utilize a body control module (BCM) - you may not want to use the ground wire in your light harness to ground the resistor. I had some interesting problems with that on my 07 Tahoe. Now I just use a self tapping screw and drill a dedicated ground point right behind the tail light. One lead of the resistor gets tapped into the signal wire, the other goes right to its own dedicated ground. I've never had an issue that way - there are a couple of videos on my channel about it.
To finish it off you could always do the tag light too. I've used those resistors with my Crown Vic for a few years and haven't had a problem. For anyone interested just make sure you mount them to metal and not plastic because they get super hot. Looks great Eric!
Another trick that works to eliminate hyper flash is to wire in a "dummy bulb" into the circuit, usually a 921 wedge bulb is enough resistance to do the job. Black tape or paint the bulb black so it doesnt show light and tuck it away behind the light assembly.
Turn signals, you can go 3 ways -50w resistor, flasher relay, leave them as is. If changing the flasher relay isn't a problem to you then that is probably the best route to go. If you're lazzy or you have to take half the dash apart to get to it then a 50w resistor is a good option. If you have no place for a resistor than just leave it as is. Also zip ties - that sticky tape will likely have it's glue deteriorate with time and hot-cold cycles.
I just have one thing to add, flashers aren't relays, they are bimetallic switches. The digital ones use transistors I believe. Thank you for your comment and input.
Hey Eric! Long time watcher, first time poster. The LEDs look great as does the whole truck! I may be a bit biased though. I have watched most of the series about "Dad's Truck" because I too have a GMT400 (1993) that was my dads. My truck has been an off and on project since 2010. It was wrecked in 2002 and was parked outside with no front sheet metal for years. My dad died in 2009 and it became a mission to me to get this truck going again so I could drive something that he loved. I would gladly accept the factory tail light housings if you decide to part ways with them. : )
Don't need a resistor just replace the Blinker hazard relay and it will fix the hyper flash from the leds Eric oh wait this truck is to old to have a flasher relay if I remember correctly thats why you used the resistors @EricTheCarGuy
They make relays for $12.99 all over Amazon. They didn't have one for my 88 Suburban so I bought one and swapped shells. It took not even ten minutes. You could also do some spade pig tails. And this works regardless of the number of lights or amount of load.
On a side note, in addition to LED taillight bulbs, I put in LED front bulbs and digital flashers on my 1990 Mustang to try to avoid using the resistors, BUT... then my cruise didn't work properly! Had to put the resistors in anyway.
A tailgate LED bar would be a nice addition... there are some with reverse, brake, and amber turn sigals or just plain red if that's the style you're looking for. As others have mentioned, a flasher relay meant for LEDs might be available at the local auto parts store... but definitely available online. I'd worry about the wire connection points on the resistors corroding and causing problems.
I would suggest to mount the resistors straight to the body with allocated screw holes this way heat dissappation is better...the 3m insulation is a heat barrier there by causing the heat issue
If you want to get even fancier you could use a thermal pad in place of the 3m tape to sink the heat more efficiently to the body. Still want to use the screws to mount though obviously.
@@nopenottalib4366 Thermal paste should be better but I would probably be worried about water washing it away over time. Water does typically get behind tail light assemblies usually.
@@Mikeissm Most thermal pastes use some form of grease as the base, so it would repel the water rather than wash off. As a case in point, I don't know if you've ever removed a CPU cooler and had to replace the thermal paste on it or not, but it takes a fair amount of scrubbing with Isopropyl alcohol to get the old paste off.
When I play around with LEDs, the biggest satisfaction is ALWAYS replacing the reverse light. It is like having a torch point out from the back while reversing.
Eric, why don't you put a 3rd high level brake light in the cab on the headlining? Half inch back from the glass so you still open the bed glass partition and you have the added security to hopefully avoid being rear ended.
You can get the third brake light to work by wiring it to both brake/turn wires in the connector with a diode in each wire allowing the brake side to the light but blocking the light from backfeeding the turn signal side so the other light continues flashing.
Not really. See the episode where I installed the 7 way. The connector is set up for the 7 way more than the 4 way plug. Both are one unit. That said, I don't think it will be an issue. I've towed trailers with this truck and never had issues with the lights. Thanks for the comment.
I just picked up a 2007 Mercury Montego Premiere, it has the LED Tail lights ALL IN ONE UNIT. The LED'S GO ( CIRCUIT BOARD INSIDE ) & you have to replace THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY, KRAZY. The dealership wanted almost a GRAND for one side, WTF ? I found a used one on Ebay for $150, harness bulbs & all. Will change over too Ford 500 Tail Lights if another side DIES. OH, Salvage yards wanted $400 & up for used ones, NOPE.
Instead of using tape for the resistors that you could screw them in with some self tappers. I have found out that if you screw them in into a metal surface that it can help to dissipate the heat that the resistors produce. I had to do just that when I installed my turn signal LED's. Also there are LED flashers for some older vehicles that don't have a BCM.....just my 2 cents
You can also change the flasher relay made for LEDs. This way you don't cut into the original harness Also uses less power(not that it really matters. But you wont need a resistor which gets hot after a long time of use. I replaced the blinkers with LEDs on my 2011 Impreza and just removed the original flasher relay and installed an electronic one This is also reversible as you just need to swap out the LED bulbs. The relay can also run the old bulbs, so no need to even swap it back.
It's not the 7-way plug, it's just that the wiring standard for trailers in the US does NOT separate brake/turn lighting. It's a 2-way vs a 3-way tail-light config that would have a separate brake light circuit.
Yep, and the third brake light must have been just hard-wired to the right stop/turn signal light. HOWEVER, in Europe the 7-way plugs are used also. So where is the difference? Well, according to the diagrams, US 7-way plug has an auxillary 12V supply. And this is where european plugs have their brake lights wired.
Correction: US 7 way blade connectors don't have a separate brake wire, the 7 way round pole connectors used on semi-truck trailers have separate signals and brake.
@@5Dale65 Yeah, aux 12v is to charge a small battery that applies the brakes if the trailer comes unhitched from the tow vehicle. The US standard also has a reverse wire but it's rarely used for lights, instead it activates a solenoid that locks out "surge" style brakes so they don't fight you backing up a hill.
@@averyw.3939 European plugs use the round-pin style only, as far as I know. There are separate left and right marker light circuit, turn signals, stop light, ground and one more, which is reverse light or rear fog lamp (in many EU countries it is mandatory). If we want to get more circuits for the trailer, there are 13-way plugs (rarely used), which provide all kinds of stuff. However 4-way plugs are not used at all.
One of your most interesting videos to date. Your wire splice connectors are known to cause corrosion and failures everyone understands this not sure why you chose to use those when they’re obviously a mistake. Silicone to cover up a wire connector silicone has high amounts of vinegar in it which corrodes copper which silicone is never to be used with copper wiring or wiring of any kind.
I didn't put the silicone directly on the wires, just the openings in the connectors. That's not to say it won't leach in. If it does cause an issue, I think it will be easy to fix. Thank you for your input.
The last thing I want to do is to drill holes into the body of my car and introduce water into my trunk or worse yet, start corrosion points. So, I used Gorilla Heavy Duty Double Sided Mounting Tape to attach the resistor to the car. the tape is phenomenal when it comes to handling heat, and when it adheres to something it's like 'crazy glue', it's been over a year and the resistors are still holding on. So, I agree with Eric on the way he attached the resistors. I would have used a different double-sided tape is all.
I replaced the OEM "filament" bulbs with the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra "filament" bulbs, and they were much brighter. Plus, unlike LED bulbs, they will generate some heat to help in snowy\icy winter conditions. Also, to me, the LED taillight bulbs just don't look right. Also, I used Meguiar's PlastX polish, not a sponsor, and it really cleaned up and brought the shine back to my OEM housings.
Instead of Using red diod leds you can actually use white led diods since the housings are red will make them a ton brighter using white leds in red housings @EricTheCarGuy
hi Eric, nice video, and great great comments , thank you to your viewers, im an old maintenance man , and was so fortunate to have been tutored by some very smart , common sense gents , your video was lacking in some areas , if you are showing and installation , please consider your hands may be in the way , and you might do a close up of the actual connection , per se, the resistor onto the wires, the viewers may be well versed on the use of tools and parts being used but there are also the neophytes, that want to learn from you, and by my tutoring , and training , please clean all surfaces when applying an adhesive, dust corrosion , oxidation , contribute to poor use of adhesives contact strength, maybe im talking to much , so i'll stop here, ciao 4 now
For some applications they also make LED-compatible flasher modules that don't fast-flash when under LED loads. Not always an option, especially if one has no flasher module to begin with.
In the video where you installed the trailer lights, you only checked for expected signals - and mostly just one signal at a time. You wouldn't have caught any weird leakage currents with the testing you did. So it's still possible that the problem making the third brake light flash with the right indicator is due to a problem with the wiring, rather than a short in the unit.
Hi Eric you have done a good 👍 job on the break lights on your dad 👨 truck 🚛 🚦 i love ❤️ your video the are The best ones and is so to see your grandson on your video 📷 the last time video 📷 is so good 👍 to start young mechanic #StartYoungMechanicGrandson
Nice bright lights :-) The 50 watt resistors are over rated, the maximum load is 33.6 watts at 14.2V MAX, easy to dissipate. (They are quality wire wound resistors). Leds are non linear in there effective resistance, so ohms law won't make much sense. Half the voltage applied will not mean half the current. But resistors are linear.
Indeed. Many suggested it would have been easier to install a digital flasher instead of resistors. Honestly, I wasn't aware they were available. I also didn't feel this took up too much of my time. Always nice to see you. Have a great weekend.
@@ericthecarguy Eric have you seen any new flasher relays for my 05 Element that work? I want to install LED’s and don’t want resistors. I found one on Amazon that has the potentiometer in it to adjust the flash rate but don’t know if it works. The trucks lights look great. Really improved my E when I replaced the backups. Love your Element stuff!
I installed LED bulbs like that for my reverse lights. Although they look bright, they don't project as much light as you would think. I ended up switching back to the regular bulbs for the reverse lights and only using LEDs for the brake and turn signal
Good to see you Eric and hope you and family are keeping safe and sound amidst this pandemic. As usual really appreciate the informative videos and please do keep them coming. All the best.
The third brake light comes on because it gets its signal from only one side of the brake lights, and because the brake flashers are integrated in the stop light (i.e. not using amber lights) it'll flash with the turn signal. Basically you need to run a wire from both brake lights with diodes in each side so you don't backfeed anything. Then it'll stay on solid with either turn signal, AND flash with the 4-ways on.
That doesn't really matter to me. I know the trailer connector works like it should when a trailer is connected. I just removed the 3rd light and the issue is gone. Thanks for the comment.
Love "dad's truck" I have a 99 and even though I have efi a lot of this stuff applies to my truck and we'll i just love Chevy, grew up with my dad having a 71 and 83 Camaro as well as a 88 suburban
Those resisters are nice and work well however I've installed plenty of led lights on these gmt 400 trucks and I've found that just changing the flasher on these trucks tends to work better because you don't need to cut into the factory wireing witch I have always found that with light issues I look for added trailer wireing or anything added so without cutting a harness helps eliminate that chance but regardless the truck and lights looks great
I would just get a high mount brake light from a GM SUV and mount it up on the cab, it wouldn't look out of place. Just ordered an aftermarket replacement for my 99 Jimmy, was $28 on Amazon.
Did the same in my car (LED all around except headlights) and installed an electronic flasher relay. Screw the resistors; why burn off power in a resistor when an electronic flashers work perfectly?
The flash rate use to be a function of the flasher module. You could buy a 'heavy duty' module to fix a fast flash rate when pulling a trailer for example. Would changing a flasher be a better way to deal with these changes after installing LED tail lights?
So I believe the issue with the lower light is that a 4 pin trailer plug like that is plugged into does not separate brake lights and turn signals it just so happens to be wired into the right hand turn signal for the power for the brake lights.
Exactly. There isn't any issue with the hitch wiring, that's just how the light is made, if you put one of those on you get a right and center turn signal because it's plugged into the dark green wire.
Resistors are like carburetors. It works but outdated. The best thing to do is use a relay designed for leds like another commenter said . Resistors get way too hot and need to be carefully placed in order not to burn plastics parts of the car. And yes,even in the few seconds of using a signal light they get up to 170+.
A little constructive critique here.🤙 Hobby electric here that is a car mechanic. Not saying it is wrong but your 6ohm resistor should be swapped with a 12 or 14ohm instead to get closer to the combined power the halogen bulb pulls. Lets say your constant car voltage is 14v And your bulb is a 21watt one. And your LED light ACTUAL power draw is 6 watts (I've measured several ebay and expensive ones and they all are about 6 watts). To to mimic the original bulb you need to add 14 watts resistive load. And a 6 ohm resistor at 14v pulls 2.33 A (14/6=2.33) and that equals to 32.66 watts (2.33x14=32.66) that is overloading the cable by 188% when combining the LED bulb. You want 21-7 watts = 14 watts for resistor. 14V/14R=1A 1A*14V=14W But to be on the safe side if the LED is a weak one you can chose 12Ohm instead that pulls 16.3Watts and will be a lot cooler than your 33watt one 😁
And this also works without any issue on new cars that have halogen bulbs since if you overlod them it will cut the power since it is seeing a short circuit if using 6ohm (varying from brands) but a 12 or 14 ohm is 99% safe. And the watt rating on the resistor only tells how much it handles before burning so always try to have the watt rating close to double that actual power draw on it. So a 14 ohm and watt one is perfect at 30 watt rating or higher (25watt rating works but it is getting hotter since it is smaller)
For me, only the LED reverse lights seem brighter than the original. That has been my experience also when I upgraded my Tahoe's taillights. But LEDs last longer so they're still worth the upgrade.
Depends on the LEDs, many designed to fit the original unmodified housing have a tendency to die from overheating since they have nowhere within the enclosed space to sink heat into.
The LEDs draw so little current the flasher relay thinks it's an open circuit (burnt bulb), hence the hyperflash. Low current = low heat. The heat is redirected to the resistors.
@@KenLyns The warmth of incandescent bulbs is nice to keep snow and ice from building up so easily. My '16 ford has all LED lights except for the cubby hole under the center stack and the license plate lights. It doesn't snow much in AR but this past February we got 6 years of snow in 2 days and it was a pain to keep the headlights clear. If I lived in damnyankeeland or Canada I'd probably look at adding 12v heat tape to the lights.
Another option instead of the resistor is to replace the flasher module with one that can handle LEDs (so something like the tapturn module that has additional functionality, or simpler flashers as well - most shops that deal in the LEDs will also carry flasher modules)
I was warned that doing that, the resistor could melt the plastic housing ?? Those type might produce less lumens,, so they're not really any brighter,, and are just a longer life replacement bulb ?? Just guessing,, I still need to make this upgrade.
I didn’t install resistors into neither of my cars a 2007 Acura TSX and a 1995 Nissan Hardbody I simply replaced the flasher relays under dash to LED flasher The only problem I’ve run into now is that the running lights are bright to where you can barely tell the brake comes on at night during the day works perfect since running lights are normally off Is there a way to reduce the voltage with a voltage regulator or reducer to the running light cables only to dim them a bit????
I changed my tail lights and rear turn signals on my 2005 Silverado to LED bulbs but had to leave the running lights incandescent. The cruise control does not work if LED bulbs are installed. I did install a resistor but after a while they just burned out so I just left the running lights incandescent. My reverse and brake/turn signals are LED. Resistors are installed on brake/turn signals.
sometimes this issue - especially on older vehicles like these - can be corrected with a LED flasher instead of resistors. I like the new flasher more because you don't have to alter the wiring much and you gain electrical efficiency.
Flasher relay.
You can either do a flasher module or relay old vehicles use relay and very simple switching new vehicles because apparently the clicking annoyed people. Now they use this all electric circuit. Vs simple relay but again both systems are easy to fix the flasher unit and relay have essentially the same job blink the circuit and the lever is a simple on off switch the parts that are sensitive to load are the flasher or relay and when handed a much lower load than expected causes them to switch faster because the amps they are getting are higher. So old vehicle get led relay new vehicle find the flashing unit and get a led ready one for your particular vehicle.
I got turn signal bulbs with built in resistor, Amazon the best
There are also canbus led bulbs
There is an easier way.
-Remove the flasher relay
-open it by removing the cover
-thin out the width of the metallic strip with a dremel or a small file. remove small amounts
-Try and repeat
When I upgraded the taillights on my S10 Blazer, I changed the flasher relay from the original analog unit to a solid state digital relay. Solved the hyper flashing issue for me.
I do love the “DADS TRUCK Series”
Nice job! When I did mine I just added a heavy duty electronic flasher to the fuse panel. Much easier.
I have had amazing results with Zevo Sylvania Led Bulbs from autozone have had all bulbs replaced in my 2000 4runner for last 8 years and zevo leds still going strong bought a whole set for my second 2000 4rummer I just bought 2 weeks ago @EricTheCarGuy
Theres no dedicated brake light on a 7-way trailer connector. There is a trailer brake wire ran off of the brake controller that provides higher voltage depending on settings on the controller. Your hitch plug light is connected to the right turn signal wire in the plug. You would need a 2-wire to 3-wire taillight converter to give you a separate brake light only wire.
Thank you Eric for brightening up my day love watching your wonderful videos I am from South Africa
The Top Man is back with top quality advice!
I certainly would suggest going back in and mounting those resistors directly to the sheet metal body panel nice and tight with screws. In fact, I'd recommend putting CPU thermal paste between the resistor and the sheet metal too. Those resistors get very hot. The heat sink fins are useless in there with no air flow. The 3M adhesive pad is insulating the resistor from a very convenient, HUGE heat sink which is the metal body panel. Paint or FluidFilm the screw points to rust proof them.
I was just going to suggest this. Those resistors are enclosed in a heat sink which is meant to be mounted to a metal surface to dissipate heat
I have a 94’ GMC 1500 SL with the 4.3. Your videos have been more than helpful and a great resource center with many of the issues I’ve had with mine. Thanks and keep up the great work.
You and Technology Connections posting about the same thing on the same day, I was certain there was going to be a crossover
I laughed about that too. I do disagree with him about not upgrading to LEDs though, because I WANT my turn signals and brake lights to be extra bright and spilling light everywhere. They're not like headlights. Turn signals and brake lights should be obnoxious.
He is right about being careful about brightness though. Some LEDs are too dim, don't have a good major/minor ratio, or don't play nice with the car's circuitry.
I also disagreed with Alec’s assessment of LED bulbs. Modern COB LED tower bulbs with 27+ chips will be at least as bright or brighter than stock. But I do agree with others that an electronic replacement flasher is the best bet instead of resistors. That’s how I upgraded both my Integra and Miata. My CX5 has the flasher built into the ECU, so my solution was to use bulbs with built in resistors, which are absolutely stupid bright!
@@Patrick94GSR It all depends on the lights on the vehicle in combination with the specific LEDs used, some may work, most won´t.
Seems to be easier here in Germany (and most of Europe). So far no one, not even the big brands like Osram, offer replacement LED bulbs. You get some on Amazon, but here all automotive parts which are related to certain safety or environment relevant parts of the car have to have an ECE (European version) or KBA (German variant of the ECE) number stamped on or have to provide a written certificate of conformity. Otherwise you would void the vehicles operating permit (same as if you severely fail the biannual safety inspection "HU" commonly referred to as TÜV).
And looking at that, there seem to be no LED replacements which have an ECE number.
One manufacturer rather recently put some LED lights as replacement for either H4 or H7 bulbs in the Headlights into the market. But really only one brand so far and to this point they got certified only for a limited number of car models. They can not yet be used as a generic replacement (which I think as specific and standardized those headlight bulbs are, will only be a matter of time until they have been kind of crosschecked with a certain number of different models and headlight types.)
So it is easier in the sense that here it clearly is just illegal to put LEDs in (at this point of time) and the vehicle would actually be shut down by the police and a complete inspection and repair would be mandated. Only after fixing the issue and getting it inspected the vehicle would regain an operating permit.
Would it work that well to just replace them, I am convinced the big brands around here, Phillips, Osram, Bosch, Hella, would have got some products out already that fulfilled all ECE requirements and could legally be used as replacement. But as we don´t get any for years now, I think I go with what Alec said as there must be a reason that it just not happened. Despite this getting less and less relevant with newer cars having LED lights, at least in the back, nevertheless.
For stock headlights LED has replaced halogen bulbs either in higher priced cars completely or can be ordered as an pricey option. At least they seem to have made Xenon lights obsolete in new cars.
I bet this sounds harsh to some in the US, well at least in some states where there are no inspections or you might pass an inspection as long as you have some brakes and lights in a somewhat working condition. But we are glad to know that there is an almost 100 % chance of other vehicles around being roadworthy and they will not start disintegrating in front of me at 160 km/h on the Autobahn.
OR you could just replace the old thermal flasher module with an electronic one and save the power waste and heat generation of adding the resistor. And if you want stock again the electronic flasher will work for that as well. Simple with no heat and no excess power usage.
That’s exactly what I did. Literally took 5 seconds to swap them out.
My old 1963 Ford tractor was original with a 6 volt generator set up. Last year I converted to 12 volt alternator. Went ahead and changed all the light bulbs to LED. Brought it into the 21st century, and I can see much better with them
Nice upgrade looks good Eric came out amazing and super bright @EricTheCarGuy
Thank you for not doing the clichéd LED strip on the tailgate.
The new tails look fine and I do like me some GMT400 vids. Folks should keep in mind that if a curious officer ever looks at them closely it'll be revealed they aren't D.O.T compliant. Are they just as good? Sure. Are they designed as drop-in OEM replacements? Yep. But that won't matter if the cop gets nosy and doesn't see the text imprinted on the lens. Just something to be aware of.
Sometimes you could get a new relay specifically made for LEDs
Why get a new one? Just get an old one and change 1 resistor (most toyotas from at least the 90s to at least mid 2010s)
@@eivis13 No need to worry about adding a resistor. Adding the resistor also adds a heat source that wasn't designed to be mitigated. There have been cases where fires have been started from resistors installed for LED conversions. Swapping out a $46 relay took care of the hyperflashing in my '03 Suburban. The hardest part was getting my fat body in position to find the old one and get it.
yeah LMC truck has led flasher modules for all American made trucks. Considering most car makers use the same ones in all their vehicle you can use then in other vehicles.
@@northerncowboy8409 I spent $10 to put in a new relay made for LEDs in my 03 Ford Expedition
@@northerncowboy8409 seems like a fire would mostly be a rist from running much more resistance than originally designed for. just need to probe the old bulb and see how much resistance it has and install a corresponding resistor and mitigate extra strain on the circuit
@EricTheCarGuy I love watching you do stuff like this on your truck because I remember figuring this stuff out the hard way when I was a young teenager getting into "truck mods" on my 91 Chevy. It's part of the reason I've followed your videos so closely, actually. What would be awesome to see next is a video of you doing the double-high beams (or Bambi mod.) I've done it on just about every vehicle I've ever owned because I drive a lot at night and the deer are rampant where I live. Maybe not something necessary for you, but I think it would be excellent "technical content." Keep up the excellent content!
I prefer switching to a digital flasher over resistors but when you have a bcm handling the flasher signal, you don't have a choice.
Yuuup... my Lancer has it through BCM. There's a DIY way to program it but it's easy to mess something up 🤷♂️
Agreed, but this is a 1990 chevy pickup truck, I don't think it even has a bcm, nor did anyone even know what a bcm was in 1990
OBD 1
@@Dumbass_mechanic I have a 1998 that all we (my son and I) had to do was get an electronic flasher, works fine. No BCM on it. I added LED's turns on the front as well, even interior lights too.
@@golfmanmatt My 1991 civic hatchback has an LED, it's on the ECU and when it is ill it flashes it like POST codes on a computer.
As stated, the better solution is to just replace the flasher relay with an electronic version. Then you don't have to mess with resistors, or deal with the heat they generate - especially on vehicles where the brake/turn bulb also operates as a running light.
Agreed.
On this old GM era product, it's less than $10 and mere seconds to swap in the fuse box
Something more modern where the flasher isn't serviced separately, resistors are the method of last resort
I'm not saying it's not a bad job Eric, it's just you put yourself through a lot of extra work
They look cool though
Tomato, tamato. So far there aren't any issues and it only took a few min to install. Thank you for your input.
@@ericthecarguy Eric I love your work but this is a bad take. That tape will get hot and fall off. Most adhesives hate heat. You can have an LED flasher in the cab where it's nice and relatively dry.
Looks way better and fresher indeed! Now just some LED'S for the license plate.
I recommend using the Error Free CAN BUS LED's that prevent hyperflash instead of using resistors for a few reasons:
1. Resistors can be a fire hazard since they get so hot and/or damage plastic components such as housings or bumpers (of course this all depends on the installation location).
2. There may not be enough room for resistors behind the housings.
3. Resistors create 2 additional wiring connections and an extra component that can all be points of failure.
4. As you mentioned, they may not be suitable for the electrical systems in newer cars.
I always replace the blinker replay with a led relay before I install tail light and reverse and blinker bulbs in the rear nice work Eric @EricTheCarGuy
Zevo LEDs are the best I've ever used! I have my 96 Integra and 07 TL-S all LED, switchbacks in the front with flasher relays. Zevos are the brightest, best looking red I've been able to find. Lots of others I tried were too dim in direct sunlight.
Zevos work really well for more modern reflector style lights, but not so well for the older style lights where the "reflector" is dull silver and most of the light output is directed and magnified by the lens.
@@averyw.3939 I do suppose that's true, I can see that for sure. The Integra having such a long surface area taillight definitely had me checking various brands but Zevo still offered the best light output and truest looking red. I had some similar to what he used in the truck with a "projector" on the end prior to that, the Phillips branded ones, and some other offbrand eBay junk and they all were real dim and more of a washed out pinkish red color and hard to see in the sun so I'm biased 😂
@@DesiD92 Yeah there’s a lot of junk out there, Zevos are almost always good, especially on more modern vehicles. If I can I try to find complete LED tail light housings, then you can go for the blackout look, not for everyone but I like it.
On older cars that have a flasher relay, you do NOT need resistors. Simply get a LED flasher relay and done. On newer cars that have a bcm controller turn signal, you need load resistors.
👍 Got 'em on my 1977 Jeep, LED flasher, no resistors, works great!!
Until what year you know?
@@MegaErick2007 probably, wild guess is 2000. Some cars got bcm signals earlier than that (mopar minivans, mopars in general) some cars kept turn relays later than 2000 like bmws.
Open your fusebox, it will either have a turn relay or not.
Hey, perfect timing after technology connection's video about blinking turn lights and his PSA on never using led tail lights.
Same!
I am about to do this on my 88 s-10, this video was perfect timing. You have now opened a can of worms doing the tail lights because now you need to do the license plate bulb LED’s and match the front marker lights. Maybe the interior bulbs too. If you do, please make a video for that also. 😀
Just a PSA for those of you with newer vehicles that utilize a body control module (BCM) - you may not want to use the ground wire in your light harness to ground the resistor. I had some interesting problems with that on my 07 Tahoe. Now I just use a self tapping screw and drill a dedicated ground point right behind the tail light. One lead of the resistor gets tapped into the signal wire, the other goes right to its own dedicated ground. I've never had an issue that way - there are a couple of videos on my channel about it.
To finish it off you could always do the tag light too. I've used those resistors with my Crown Vic for a few years and haven't had a problem. For anyone interested just make sure you mount them to metal and not plastic because they get super hot. Looks great Eric!
Another trick that works to eliminate hyper flash is to wire in a "dummy bulb" into the circuit, usually a 921 wedge bulb is enough resistance to do the job. Black tape or paint the bulb black so it doesnt show light and tuck it away behind the light assembly.
Turn signals, you can go 3 ways -50w resistor, flasher relay, leave them as is. If changing the flasher relay isn't a problem to you then that is probably the best route to go. If you're lazzy or you have to take half the dash apart to get to it then a 50w resistor is a good option. If you have no place for a resistor than just leave it as is. Also zip ties - that sticky tape will likely have it's glue deteriorate with time and hot-cold cycles.
I just have one thing to add, flashers aren't relays, they are bimetallic switches. The digital ones use transistors I believe. Thank you for your comment and input.
Hey Eric! Long time watcher, first time poster. The LEDs look great as does the whole truck! I may be a bit biased though. I have watched most of the series about "Dad's Truck" because I too have a GMT400 (1993) that was my dads. My truck has been an off and on project since 2010. It was wrecked in 2002 and was parked outside with no front sheet metal for years. My dad died in 2009 and it became a mission to me to get this truck going again so I could drive something that he loved. I would gladly accept the factory tail light housings if you decide to part ways with them. : )
OMG VAMPIRE SPLICE! I am getting chest pains. LOL
nothing i hate more than the stupid hyper flash 😂 glad you did it the right way. need some LED’s for the license plate now 👌🏼
LOVE THIS TRUCK ...
The turn signals I bought have built in resistors so they can be a direct replacement without any additional wiring and work great
There are flashers that have the resistors build in so that you don't need to put resistors inline.
I use an electronic flasher, you can even change the flash rate.
@@skmetal7 that's what he's talking about
@@CarAudioInc he mentioned a flasher with a potentiometer. I believe op ment the ones that are only for leds.
Don't need a resistor just replace the Blinker hazard relay and it will fix the hyper flash from the leds Eric oh wait this truck is to old to have a flasher relay if I remember correctly thats why you used the resistors @EricTheCarGuy
They make relays for $12.99 all over Amazon. They didn't have one for my 88 Suburban so I bought one and swapped shells. It took not even ten minutes. You could also do some spade pig tails. And this works regardless of the number of lights or amount of load.
Great job Eric!
I luv dads truck,thank u sir👍
On a side note, in addition to LED taillight bulbs, I put in LED front bulbs and digital flashers on my 1990 Mustang to try to avoid using the resistors, BUT... then my cruise didn't work properly! Had to put the resistors in anyway.
Anytime I remove a tail light I like to clean the metal behind the lense. Wax, etc. I love that truck. Late 80's to about 95 had the best trucks.
A tailgate LED bar would be a nice addition... there are some with reverse, brake, and amber turn sigals or just plain red if that's the style you're looking for. As others have mentioned, a flasher relay meant for LEDs might be available at the local auto parts store... but definitely available online. I'd worry about the wire connection points on the resistors corroding and causing problems.
I like the OE option for this truck. Thanks for the comment.
I would suggest to mount the resistors straight to the body with allocated screw holes this way heat dissappation is better...the 3m insulation is a heat barrier there by causing the heat issue
Yes, that 3m tape will get hot & fall off.
If you want to get even fancier you could use a thermal pad in place of the 3m tape to sink the heat more efficiently to the body. Still want to use the screws to mount though obviously.
@@Mikeissm You could probably achieve similar results using a good quality thermal paste like Arctic Silver or similar.
@@nopenottalib4366 Thermal paste should be better but I would probably be worried about water washing it away over time. Water does typically get behind tail light assemblies usually.
@@Mikeissm Most thermal pastes use some form of grease as the base, so it would repel the water rather than wash off. As a case in point, I don't know if you've ever removed a CPU cooler and had to replace the thermal paste on it or not, but it takes a fair amount of scrubbing with Isopropyl alcohol to get the old paste off.
When I play around with LEDs, the biggest satisfaction is ALWAYS replacing the reverse light. It is like having a torch point out from the back while reversing.
Eric, why don't you put a 3rd high level brake light in the cab on the headlining? Half inch back from the glass so you still open the bed glass partition and you have the added security to hopefully avoid being rear ended.
You can get the third brake light to work by wiring it to both brake/turn wires in the connector with a diode in each wire allowing the brake side to the light but blocking the light from backfeeding the turn signal side so the other light continues flashing.
Not really. See the episode where I installed the 7 way. The connector is set up for the 7 way more than the 4 way plug. Both are one unit. That said, I don't think it will be an issue. I've towed trailers with this truck and never had issues with the lights. Thanks for the comment.
The third brake light would still flash whenever he turns on a turn signal and he's NOT stepping on the brakes.
@@jonclark1288 jon your not wrong. Didn't think of that.
I just picked up a 2007 Mercury Montego Premiere, it has the LED Tail lights ALL IN ONE UNIT. The LED'S GO ( CIRCUIT BOARD INSIDE ) & you have to replace THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY, KRAZY. The dealership wanted almost a GRAND for one side, WTF ? I found a used one on Ebay for $150, harness bulbs & all. Will change over too Ford 500 Tail Lights if another side DIES. OH, Salvage yards wanted $400 & up for used ones, NOPE.
Instead of using tape for the resistors that you could screw them in with some self tappers. I have found out that if you screw them in into a metal surface that it can help to dissipate the heat that the resistors produce. I had to do just that when I installed my turn signal LED's. Also there are LED flashers for some older vehicles that don't have a BCM.....just my 2 cents
Eric, you should consider swapping the license plate bulbs.
You can also change the flasher relay made for LEDs.
This way you don't cut into the original harness
Also uses less power(not that it really matters.
But you wont need a resistor which gets hot after a long time of use.
I replaced the blinkers with LEDs on my 2011 Impreza and just removed the original flasher relay and installed an electronic one
This is also reversible as you just need to swap out the LED bulbs.
The relay can also run the old bulbs, so no need to even swap it back.
It's not the 7-way plug, it's just that the wiring standard for trailers in the US does NOT separate brake/turn lighting. It's a 2-way vs a 3-way tail-light config that would have a separate brake light circuit.
Yep, and the third brake light must have been just hard-wired to the right stop/turn signal light. HOWEVER, in Europe the 7-way plugs are used also. So where is the difference? Well, according to the diagrams, US 7-way plug has an auxillary 12V supply. And this is where european plugs have their brake lights wired.
Correction: US 7 way blade connectors don't have a separate brake wire, the 7 way round pole connectors used on semi-truck trailers have separate signals and brake.
@@5Dale65 We have the auxiliary 12v to charge trailer batteries on RVs, boats, dump trailers etc.
@@5Dale65 Yeah, aux 12v is to charge a small battery that applies the brakes if the trailer comes unhitched from the tow vehicle. The US standard also has a reverse wire but it's rarely used for lights, instead it activates a solenoid that locks out "surge" style brakes so they don't fight you backing up a hill.
@@averyw.3939 European plugs use the round-pin style only, as far as I know. There are separate left and right marker light circuit, turn signals, stop light, ground and one more, which is reverse light or rear fog lamp (in many EU countries it is mandatory). If we want to get more circuits for the trailer, there are 13-way plugs (rarely used), which provide all kinds of stuff. However 4-way plugs are not used at all.
One of your most interesting videos to date. Your wire splice connectors are known to cause corrosion and failures everyone understands this not sure why you chose to use those when they’re obviously a mistake. Silicone to cover up a wire connector silicone has high amounts of vinegar in it which corrodes copper which silicone is never to be used with copper wiring or wiring of any kind.
I didn't put the silicone directly on the wires, just the openings in the connectors. That's not to say it won't leach in. If it does cause an issue, I think it will be easy to fix. Thank you for your input.
I've got a ram, but all I did for mine was change the blinker relay that's rated for 4 led lights. Works the same.
I personally like the hyper flash it catchs attachion better than a slow flash do
The last thing I want to do is to drill holes into the body of my car and introduce water into my trunk or worse yet, start corrosion points. So, I used Gorilla Heavy Duty Double Sided Mounting Tape to attach the resistor to the car. the tape is phenomenal when it comes to handling heat, and when it adheres to something it's like 'crazy glue', it's been over a year and the resistors are still holding on. So, I agree with Eric on the way he attached the resistors. I would have used a different double-sided tape is all.
On my 2000 Nissan Xterra I just changed the flasher relay. Might have cost a little more but done & done.
I replaced the OEM "filament" bulbs with the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra "filament" bulbs, and they were much brighter. Plus, unlike LED bulbs, they will generate some heat to help in snowy\icy winter conditions. Also, to me, the LED taillight bulbs just don't look right. Also, I used Meguiar's PlastX polish, not a sponsor, and it really cleaned up and brought the shine back to my OEM housings.
Good morning Eric
Eric not Erick
Good morning!
@@2003AcuraTL
Thanks …. I already fixed it…
@@chapinsolitario1980 oh ok
Instead of Using red diod leds you can actually use white led diods since the housings are red will make them a ton brighter using white leds in red housings @EricTheCarGuy
hi Eric, nice video, and great great comments , thank you to your viewers, im an old maintenance man , and was so fortunate to have been tutored by some very smart , common sense gents , your video was lacking in some areas , if you are showing and installation , please consider your hands may be in the way , and you might do a close up of the actual connection , per se, the resistor onto the wires, the viewers may be well versed on the use of tools and parts being used but there are also the neophytes, that want to learn from you, and by my tutoring , and training , please clean all surfaces when applying an adhesive, dust corrosion , oxidation , contribute to poor use of adhesives contact strength, maybe im talking to much , so i'll stop here, ciao 4 now
For some applications they also make LED-compatible flasher modules that don't fast-flash when under LED loads. Not always an option, especially if one has no flasher module to begin with.
In the video where you installed the trailer lights, you only checked for expected signals - and mostly just one signal at a time. You wouldn't have caught any weird leakage currents with the testing you did. So it's still possible that the problem making the third brake light flash with the right indicator is due to a problem with the wiring, rather than a short in the unit.
Hi Eric you have done a good 👍 job on the break lights on your dad 👨 truck 🚛 🚦 i love ❤️ your video the are The best ones and is so to see your grandson on your video 📷 the last time video 📷 is so good 👍 to start young mechanic #StartYoungMechanicGrandson
Thank you!
Nice bright lights :-)
The 50 watt resistors are over rated, the maximum load is 33.6 watts at 14.2V MAX, easy to dissipate. (They are quality wire wound resistors).
Leds are non linear in there effective resistance, so ohms law won't make much sense.
Half the voltage applied will not mean half the current.
But resistors are linear.
Indeed. Many suggested it would have been easier to install a digital flasher instead of resistors. Honestly, I wasn't aware they were available. I also didn't feel this took up too much of my time. Always nice to see you. Have a great weekend.
@@ericthecarguy When your resistors burn out give it a whirl.
@@ericthecarguy Eric have you seen any new flasher relays for my 05 Element that work? I want to install LED’s and don’t want resistors. I found one on Amazon that has the potentiometer in it to adjust the flash rate but don’t know if it works. The trucks lights look great. Really improved my E when I replaced the backups. Love your Element stuff!
I installed LED bulbs like that for my reverse lights. Although they look bright, they don't project as much light as you would think. I ended up switching back to the regular bulbs for the reverse lights and only using LEDs for the brake and turn signal
Good to see you Eric and hope you and family are keeping safe and sound amidst this pandemic. As usual really appreciate the informative videos and please do keep them coming. All the best.
Been waiting for this, thanks. Definitely going to upgrade my truck
Eric quick tip just upgrade the flasher it will compensate as if you had the resistance in
The third brake light comes on because it gets its signal from only one side of the brake lights, and because the brake flashers are integrated in the stop light (i.e. not using amber lights) it'll flash with the turn signal. Basically you need to run a wire from both brake lights with diodes in each side so you don't backfeed anything. Then it'll stay on solid with either turn signal, AND flash with the 4-ways on.
That doesn't really matter to me. I know the trailer connector works like it should when a trailer is connected. I just removed the 3rd light and the issue is gone. Thanks for the comment.
Excellent video! Thanks for the info!
Love "dad's truck" I have a 99 and even though I have efi a lot of this stuff applies to my truck and we'll i just love Chevy, grew up with my dad having a 71 and 83 Camaro as well as a 88 suburban
LED Flasher is the way to go.
Those resisters are nice and work well however I've installed plenty of led lights on these gmt 400 trucks and I've found that just changing the flasher on these trucks tends to work better because you don't need to cut into the factory wireing witch I have always found that with light issues I look for added trailer wireing or anything added so without cutting a harness helps eliminate that chance but regardless the truck and lights looks great
I would just get a high mount brake light from a GM SUV and mount it up on the cab, it wouldn't look out of place.
Just ordered an aftermarket replacement for my 99 Jimmy, was $28 on Amazon.
Always good videos, thanks Mr.
Did the same in my car (LED all around except headlights) and installed an electronic flasher relay. Screw the resistors; why burn off power in a resistor when an electronic flashers work perfectly?
Yeah I did the same with my motorcycle. The resistors seem like and extra step.
Great content as always Eric
The flash rate use to be a function of the flasher module. You could buy a 'heavy duty' module to fix a fast flash rate when pulling a trailer for example. Would changing a flasher be a better way to deal with these changes after installing LED tail lights?
You should think about pulling that plastic bed liner out and spraying in linex while the truck still has a bed floor.
This truck has seen rain maybe twice in the past 4 years. I don't think it'll be an issue. Thanks for the comment.
Good work ETCG
thank for sharing Bro!
Great job!
So I believe the issue with the lower light is that a 4 pin trailer plug like that is plugged into does not separate brake lights and turn signals it just so happens to be wired into the right hand turn signal for the power for the brake lights.
Exactly. There isn't any issue with the hitch wiring, that's just how the light is made, if you put one of those on you get a right and center turn signal because it's plugged into the dark green wire.
Resistors are like carburetors.
It works but outdated.
The best thing to do is use a relay designed for leds like another commenter said .
Resistors get way too hot and need to be carefully placed in order not to burn plastics parts of the car.
And yes,even in the few seconds of using a signal light they get up to 170+.
A little constructive critique here.🤙
Hobby electric here that is a car mechanic.
Not saying it is wrong but your 6ohm resistor should be swapped with a 12 or 14ohm instead to get closer to the combined power the halogen bulb pulls.
Lets say your constant car voltage is 14v
And your bulb is a 21watt one.
And your LED light ACTUAL power draw is 6 watts (I've measured several ebay and expensive ones and they all are about 6 watts).
To to mimic the original bulb you need to add 14 watts resistive load.
And a 6 ohm resistor at 14v pulls 2.33 A (14/6=2.33) and that equals to 32.66 watts (2.33x14=32.66) that is overloading the cable by 188% when combining the LED bulb.
You want 21-7 watts = 14 watts for resistor.
14V/14R=1A 1A*14V=14W
But to be on the safe side if the LED is a weak one you can chose 12Ohm instead that pulls 16.3Watts and will be a lot cooler than your 33watt one 😁
And this also works without any issue on new cars that have halogen bulbs since if you overlod them it will cut the power since it is seeing a short circuit if using 6ohm (varying from brands) but a 12 or 14 ohm is 99% safe.
And the watt rating on the resistor only tells how much it handles before burning so always try to have the watt rating close to double that actual power draw on it.
So a 14 ohm and watt one is perfect at 30 watt rating or higher (25watt rating works but it is getting hotter since it is smaller)
For me, only the LED reverse lights seem brighter than the original. That has been my experience also when I upgraded my Tahoe's taillights. But LEDs last longer so they're still worth the upgrade.
They also illuminate quicker. It is not a huge difference but at 65 the difference in the reaction time of the tailgater can be a number of feet.
Depends on the LEDs, many designed to fit the original unmodified housing have a tendency to die from overheating since they have nowhere within the enclosed space to sink heat into.
@@teardowndan5364 reason to buy led bulbs with metal case/radiator
Good stuff.
That won't melt the plastic on the lenses? I always said, custom parts, custom problems. Nothing like OE. That is a clean truck too.
The LEDs draw so little current the flasher relay thinks it's an open circuit (burnt bulb), hence the hyperflash. Low current = low heat. The heat is redirected to the resistors.
@@KenLyns The warmth of incandescent bulbs is nice to keep snow and ice from building up so easily. My '16 ford has all LED lights except for the cubby hole under the center stack and the license plate lights. It doesn't snow much in AR but this past February we got 6 years of snow in 2 days and it was a pain to keep the headlights clear. If I lived in damnyankeeland or Canada I'd probably look at adding 12v heat tape to the lights.
Just did my 94 Chevy with the info provided, turned out GREAT!
Another option instead of the resistor is to replace the flasher module with one that can handle LEDs (so something like the tapturn module that has additional functionality, or simpler flashers as well - most shops that deal in the LEDs will also carry flasher modules)
You could also get an electronic turn signal flasher. IMO better than resistors.
You could also buy LEDs with the resistor built-in.
I was warned that doing that, the resistor could melt the plastic housing ?? Those type might produce less lumens,, so they're not really any brighter,, and are just a longer life replacement bulb ?? Just guessing,, I still need to make this upgrade.
Did the L.E.D replacement to my 08 Ody, need to get those resistors installed, but I am happy with how much better they work than the old bulbs.
What size was the backup lights I want a set for my 85 S10 . I tryed a set from Walmart but they won't go in an stay like they are made different
On my 02 suburban I changed the flash relay to led flash relay.
I didn’t install resistors into neither of my cars a 2007 Acura TSX and a 1995 Nissan Hardbody I simply replaced the flasher relays under dash to LED flasher
The only problem I’ve run into now is that the running lights are bright to where you can barely tell the brake comes on at night during the day works perfect since running lights are normally off
Is there a way to reduce the voltage with a voltage regulator or reducer to the running light cables only to dim them a bit????
Nice work 👍
Nice😎
Very good. Nice work.
I changed my tail lights and rear turn signals on my 2005 Silverado to LED bulbs but had to leave the running lights incandescent. The cruise control does not work if LED bulbs are installed. I did install a resistor but after a while they just burned out so I just left the running lights incandescent. My reverse and brake/turn signals are LED. Resistors are installed on brake/turn signals.
Had the same problem when I put a cruze control in my old jeep.