Brother, you know how to get to work every day. If you've done that for the past 20 years and had a car whenever you were unemployed, then you're already an expert. That's really the only true measure of automotive proficiency. ;)
Been watching your videos since i was like 13 huge inspiration im now a tech in the process of starting my own buisness building engines and doing swaps in the process of getting my galant back on the road #7-1000 here 👍🏼
Jafro, I was listening to you in my car as I was on my way home and the propane torch scared the everliving hell out of me. Thought I blew out the tire on my 95 Sentra
Even though it takes a while for you to upload.... I'm satisfied with every video you post. Best definition of quality over quantity. Hands down to you jaf! Pietiently waiting for more gvr4 content ! ❤
That's what an un-sanded finish does if you polish it. It's not that good. It really isn't. But nobody will be able to see it anyway because I have a spare tire well.
You need to a use micrometer to measure your shim thickness, not a caliper. Mitutoyo 103-177 (~$70 b4 tax & shipping) the .0001” scale wraps around the backside of the barrel. Mitutoyo 293-340-30 (~$170 b4 tax & shipping) electric (battery) .00005” (the last digit alternates between 0 and 5). You can inter measurements directly into your computer/spread sheet/word processor (if so inclined) with the proper cable. The former is accurate to +/- one tenth of one thousands of an inch, which is plenty accurate for your work but some people find it tedious to read. The latter is accurate to +/- one half of one tenth of a thousands but reads easily like a caliper. The caliper can give you different measurements depending on how hard you push with your thumb, where the part being measured is in the caliper jaws (deep in the jaws or out at the tips), the amount of play between the “fixed” jaw and the “moveable” jaw sliding rails and the angle between the caliper and the part being measured (best to hold the part in the caliper without touching the part). With use the slider will ware and measurement accuracy will deteriorate, a lot. The slider needs to be adjusted and the caliper calibrated often. IMO the caliper is a feeler gauge, not suitable for the level of accuracy you need when massaging your rear end. The micrometer has a clutch in the barrel that takes the “feel” out of the equation. Place the part to be measured between the anvils and turn the barrel until it contacts the measured part (the barrel will then free spool) then take your measurement. It drives me crazy when I see people trying to adjust the micrometer and then force it onto the part being measured in hopes of achieving the “proper” feel. Using the clutch insures consistency in measurements regardless of who is using it. More info on that is available by searching Gauge R&R (gauge repeatability and reproducibility). Hope this helps.
It's good! I don't have the splined tool that fits this diff. The tests I did with it on the car and off of it with the axle shaft you saw on the floor, and it FELT alright. I confess not using feeler gauges or my incomplete set of diff tools. I may have to make my own tool. I keep buying the right discontinued, used tool by its part number and I'm getting repeats of the wrong ones now. There's 6 in the set, and I have multiples of 4/6 of them now. If I ever have to work on a Space Wagon or a Montero, I think I have it covered.
I can buy everything else but that. Plus I had a good ring and pinion right here for $0. If this one has issues with what I build and put it through, I'll swap it for a 3000GT diff and a different subframe. The arms would still work, but In would have to change the subframe. I believe a 2g rear diff will do pretty well with all the extra case reinforcement the Volk subframe provides. The 2g setup gets bushed mounts and often that's what fails causing their problems after you more than double the torque. Good question, because I put a lot of time and thought into that before doing all of this.
I spent a week working on my last r180 LSD diff.... You know everything disassembly checking cleaning reassembly new bearings getting the parts everything. I always shoot for a little tighter and I've never had an issue..... if I put that much time and effort into a diff I'd probably go crazy. Out of curiosity how many days of work is this during what time span? If I had to guess I would say 4 or 5 days of actual work over like 2 or 3 weeks.
Been working on my own cars for 20+ years and Jafro's videos always remind me that I don't know anything.
Brother, you know how to get to work every day. If you've done that for the past 20 years and had a car whenever you were unemployed, then you're already an expert. That's really the only true measure of automotive proficiency. ;)
That turnbuckle hack is brilliant ! Thanks. I’m not a DSM guy but I still enjoy and appreciate your content.
Been watching your videos since i was like 13 huge inspiration im now a tech in the process of starting my own buisness building engines and doing swaps in the process of getting my galant back on the road #7-1000 here 👍🏼
Jesus Jafro, I started to worry something had happened to you. It's been months! Glad to see you're back! (and healthy!)
Jafro, I was listening to you in my car as I was on my way home and the propane torch scared the everliving hell out of me. Thought I blew out the tire on my 95 Sentra
Great video! Can’t wait to see the GSX running again.
LET'S GO JAFRO 🏁
Been watching since I was in middle school over a decade ago, glad to see you still around Jafro!
Oh man, I got notified so quickly. Thanks Jafro, for the awesome Friday the 13th gift
Never ever impact load a rolling element bearing! You'll brinnell the races!
Great vid as usual Jafro.
That's exactly what everyone needed to see! ;) Cheers!
Seasons greetings Jaf 😊
You da man!!!
Bit by bit, looking good
FINALLY!!!! Hail to the king!!
that shockproof looked like it was ready to be spread on a peanut butter sandwich.
hope you have a good Christmas Jafro and a happy new year :)
I can't wait to see the King of Bling engine going back together. Maybe 2025 won't be such a bad year
Every day above the dirt is a gift, brother! I think Santa von Klaus heard you!
You are a mad man scientist sir.
Even though it takes a while for you to upload.... I'm satisfied with every video you post.
Best definition of quality over quantity.
Hands down to you jaf!
Pietiently waiting for more gvr4 content ! ❤
1:10 I KNEW you were lying lol
That's what an un-sanded finish does if you polish it. It's not that good. It really isn't. But nobody will be able to see it anyway because I have a spare tire well.
Ooh been waiting
*baacklaaash* Seamless Jaffro 🤣
Jafro you need some wood blocks in that vice to give you grip.
3:33 I did this with a Ford 8.8 irs, took the LSD out of a 3.73 and swapped it into an open 3.55
4am here goes my sleep schedule
I have so much to do on my GSX 😢
You need to a use micrometer to measure your shim thickness, not a caliper. Mitutoyo 103-177 (~$70 b4 tax & shipping) the .0001” scale wraps around the backside of the barrel. Mitutoyo 293-340-30 (~$170 b4 tax & shipping) electric (battery) .00005” (the last digit alternates between 0 and 5). You can inter measurements directly into your computer/spread sheet/word processor (if so inclined) with the proper cable. The former is accurate to +/- one tenth of one thousands of an inch, which is plenty accurate for your work but some people find it tedious to read. The latter is accurate to +/- one half of one tenth of a thousands but reads easily like a caliper.
The caliper can give you different measurements depending on how hard you push with your thumb, where the part being measured is in the caliper jaws (deep in the jaws or out at the tips), the amount of play between the “fixed” jaw and the “moveable” jaw sliding rails and the angle between the caliper and the part being measured (best to hold the part in the caliper without touching the part). With use the slider will ware and measurement accuracy will deteriorate, a lot. The slider needs to be adjusted and the caliper calibrated often. IMO the caliper is a feeler gauge, not suitable for the level of accuracy you need when massaging your rear end.
The micrometer has a clutch in the barrel that takes the “feel” out of the equation. Place the part to be measured between the anvils and turn the barrel until it contacts the measured part (the barrel will then free spool) then take your measurement. It drives me crazy when I see people trying to adjust the micrometer and then force it onto the part being measured in hopes of achieving the “proper” feel. Using the clutch insures consistency in measurements regardless of who is using it. More info on that is available by searching Gauge R&R (gauge repeatability and reproducibility).
Hope this helps.
learn a lot always,thanks!Have you check de lsd side,like cluch and preload!?
It's good! I don't have the splined tool that fits this diff. The tests I did with it on the car and off of it with the axle shaft you saw on the floor, and it FELT alright. I confess not using feeler gauges or my incomplete set of diff tools. I may have to make my own tool. I keep buying the right discontinued, used tool by its part number and I'm getting repeats of the wrong ones now. There's 6 in the set, and I have multiples of 4/6 of them now. If I ever have to work on a Space Wagon or a Montero, I think I have it covered.
@@Jafromobile Thanks ,i wait for the next video !😀
👍
How come not buy new genuine gears from mitsubishi? I recently got a new set of 4.875 for a 1980s pajero.
I can buy everything else but that. Plus I had a good ring and pinion right here for $0. If this one has issues with what I build and put it through, I'll swap it for a 3000GT diff and a different subframe. The arms would still work, but In would have to change the subframe. I believe a 2g rear diff will do pretty well with all the extra case reinforcement the Volk subframe provides. The 2g setup gets bushed mounts and often that's what fails causing their problems after you more than double the torque. Good question, because I put a lot of time and thought into that before doing all of this.
I spent a week working on my last r180 LSD diff.... You know everything disassembly checking cleaning reassembly new bearings getting the parts everything. I always shoot for a little tighter and I've never had an issue..... if I put that much time and effort into a diff I'd probably go crazy. Out of curiosity how many days of work is this during what time span? If I had to guess I would say 4 or 5 days of actual work over like 2 or 3 weeks.
50:48 Don't tell me to no do anything, I will.
YAY! It's JAFRO DAY!!!