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I think the rebar is not made to be in the ground, it will rust after a few years compromising the strength of the foundation. For this reason, concrete foundation code is pretty strict on rebars being suspended a few inches away from the dirt
I need to drive 1/2” rebar to stake railroad ties so this was good info for me. I have 15 to do and they will be only be 2’ long so maybe this one will do. Thanks for the demo
The piece of rebar that you filmed didn't look too straight so maybe that's why it took longer? I don't know maybe it was just the camera angle, but it looked tilted.
Sure, I imagine it will. My thought is that everything would have settled and won't move by then. Either that or the wall will need to be repaired or replaced by then anyhow.
I have the same Bosch hammer drill. It drills through cement like butter. What you are using it as is not really its true design purpose. What would work great for rebar driving is a pneumatic air hammer like what I use in auto body work. 3500-5000 bpm of inch plus movement pneumatic air hammers would drive your rebar in thru the wood and gravel. Give that a go, use your hammer drill for its hammer drill through cement purpose. Nicely done though!
Hey Everyone, thanks for watching. Be sure to check out some of my other tool reviews using the playlist linked below.
th-cam.com/play/PLHRSPnh4bEkwTiDfESJ-QLP5OWo6wayYo.html
I think the rebar is not made to be in the ground, it will rust after a few years compromising the strength of the foundation. For this reason, concrete foundation code is pretty strict on rebars being suspended a few inches away from the dirt
I will have to try this out! I’ve found that the top side of a post pounder works well too.
Good idea using a post pounder, never thought of that.
I need to drive 1/2” rebar to stake railroad ties so this was good info for me. I have 15 to do and they will be only be 2’ long so maybe this one will do. Thanks for the demo
Hope it works out!
There’s also a break in period for that particular bosch.
Tell me more about the break in period. How long, what needs to be done?
The piece of rebar that you filmed didn't look too straight so maybe that's why it took longer? I don't know maybe it was just the camera angle, but it looked tilted.
You know, Tina my wife mentioned the same thing. I didn't think that it would matter if it was tilted slightly, but maybe it did. Good eye.
Honest question, not criticism: Won’t the rebar in the dirt rust away to nothing?
Sure, I imagine it will. My thought is that everything would have settled and won't move by then. Either that or the wall will need to be repaired or replaced by then anyhow.
@ right on. Thanks for taking the time and answering.
When using hammer action apply little bit pressure not full force else it work at its full potential
Good to know, I'll have to try that next time!
I have the same Bosch hammer drill. It drills through cement like butter. What you are using it as is not really its true design purpose. What would work great for rebar driving is a pneumatic air hammer like what I use in auto body work. 3500-5000 bpm of inch plus movement pneumatic air hammers would drive your rebar in thru the wood and gravel. Give that a go, use your hammer drill for its hammer drill through cement purpose. Nicely done though!
There may be a bit for your small jack hammer
I was thinking about that originally, but I figured it was heavier than I wanted to deal with at that height.
There may be a bit available for your jack hammer
They do make a Bosch hammer drill that has more balls it's $250 to $300. The hammer hits harder. I'm a mason I have both.
Looks like once it got thru the board and gravel .. your sledge hammer was quicker and less work
You might be right. It might be easier than the sledge in some cases and others not so much. I guess it's a case by case.
Cheater!