They may also have had the elbow there to prevent turbulence in the intake manifold, especially while the EGR is open. A round tube isn't going to inhibit flow, even more so that it's transitioned to parallel to the flow with an elbow. The intake system is designed as a whole. Even if you theoretically increased volume and flow, doesn't mean the engine can consume any more air than it already is, especially naturally aspirated. Butt dynos will always tell you that you got more HP. But hey, I like working on cars too, so it's whatever.
Not trying to come off as condescending or even a D**k. But Thatguythatdoesstuff, I'm pretty sure the WHOLE purpose of a super/turbo charger is to increase the volume and flow of air. Perhaps I should watch the whole video and read all the comments before commenting. Lol
How would DECREASING THE VOLUMETRIC CROSS SECTION AREA NOT DECREASE AIRFLOW? I logged MAF on hptuners before and after the mod and saw an increase. The fuel trims were also out by about 3-6%. It has better throttle response everywhere and very slightly more of up to according to 3rd and 4th gear 1250 to 6000 rpm acceleration times logged. Runs were done same day 10am with 1 hour between the before and after runs. It's not draggy accurate but fuel trims some dictate more airflow.
@@CJ-tv2idyes to the engine by force induction since you to incompetent to understand that I will spell it out for you force induction is where you add to or replace the manifold with a compressor to at that time the compressor will suck air in topically through a cold air intake and either forced into the engine or manifold by a turbine or pulley system creating more air so yes the comment before yours is in fact correct and in some cases you can cause damage to the car with this mod
I'd guess it was designed that way to try and get the exhaust gas into the middle of the airflow and have it mix evenly. By removing the tube you might be providing some cylinders more of the exhaust gas than others.
The 4.0 mustang intake manifold has a 1 foot run from the throttle body to the intake plenum, plenty of room to mix gasses. I believe Ford did this to nerf the mustang V6 performance, like they did by running a world stranded octane tune for 80 octane and the ypipe into single 2.5in exhaust instead on using the same exact catback as the GT which fits both cars with very slight modifications. The 4.0 sees really good gains from a tune and stock GT catback exhaust. The performance gap was entered to entice more buyers towards the GT but because the 3V 4.6 was so slow they needed to make the GAP bigger by any means necessary.
You'll never see a gain by doing that. If you're only mods are an air filter and possibly a cat-back exhaust, your engine isn't sucking enough air to notice a difference. I understand the concept behind it, but it's about the equivalent of putting a more expensive set of spark plug wires on an otherwise stock engine... you just won't see or feel any noticeable gain.
how far back are you supposed to cut? As much as you can? I see yours was not cut flush but I am not sure how close I should go. also I did not see any brake cleaner applied anywhere, as long as I deburr and blow out the slag from cutting am I good to go?
I'll tell you what improves power ( torque) , when it comes time to do the chains in the engine get a degree wheel and give the cams 2 degrees advance when you put it back together. Also look up the brown wire mod to the transfer case. It saves gas by freeing the front diff when not in 4wd. Blessings.
What intake is that you are using? And did you put an aftermarket/larger throttle body on? If so what make and where can I get one? Thanks for the tip for the EGR too. Going to “mod” that in the next few days.
i dont see how a 3/8in tube will cause engine to loose power, or obstruct flow. maybe a few CFM but not much. you get more obstruction from intake itself, etc etc
@@victoryfirst2878 for a 4.0? exhaust, cold air intake and ecu tune would really wake it up i had mine beating stock 4.6 mustangs from a dig mostly though the biggest upgrade you can do is an 8.8 rear end with 3.73 gears, that made the world of difference for me
I think if you put the car on a dyno, you would see no gains from such a small part being removed. If anything, this elbow is just helping mix the EGR gas evenly between cylinders and getting it away from the sides of the PLASTIC intake manifold since it's coming straight from the exhaust.
Hello! Please tell me after replacing the replacement of the repair kit on a Ford Explorer 4.0 sohc began knocking and began to pour oil from the valve cover of the left head into the intake manifold in the 3 and 4 cylinders because of what it may be? Thanks!
Sounds like a bad valve cover gasket, or possibly a cracked cylinder head though that's unlikely. If oil is coing out of the valve cover generally the gasket has gone bad, good luck!
My guess as to why ford did that was because since the gases from The exhaust are hot it can probably melt the intake manifold. It is plastic, and the gases are pretty hot. So idk if I would do that, it can probably ruin your intake manifold
Good theory, I drove the car for a couple years like that without it melting the intake. Maybe in the long run sure or if you have some sort of exhaust clog increasing exhaust temperature that could become an issue
I have a cold air Intake, throttle body, shorty headers and full straight pipe, hope this mod actually shows improvement, I was hoping to delete the whole system, like putting a plug in the headers but I think I’d need another tune for that
The 2003 4.0L Rangers don't have the EGR system on them. I did a manual swap on mine and I was hooking everything back up that's when I notice that the wires are not there. The PCM is programmed without the EGR system. Why is the case I don't know.
2002 AND 2003 4.0 rangers didn't come with egr and get way better fuel mileage. I've owned my 2003 xl long bed 5 speed auto for about 10 years now. I installed Richmond 4.10 gears and a track lock and 245/70/16 Michelin tires on new oem rims. 99% of my driving is around town and I get 320 to 350 miles on every fill up not even driving easy. All the 4.0 rangers I've seen with egr get about 13 mpg. I thought the 4.10 gears would hurt my fuel mileage but it accelerates so easy now that it gained about 1 mpg over the original gearing.
Interesting, I wonder what the differences are I know the flex fuel long blocks have higher compression than the rest of the 4.0's Other than that I would guess it's just intake manifold differences
@@CyberdriveAutomotive My long block $700 came from a wrecked 2008 mustang with 50,000 miles on it. I put the truck intake and injection parts on it since they were different. I used new oem injectors. I've put about 50,000 more miles on it since and added 2003 mustang cobra rear disc brakes. The brakes don't feel any stronger but they are much lighter and don't get out of adjustment like drum brakes.
@@jimihendrix5576 yeah they're not bad motors, it's just that they have an achilles heal with their convoluted timing design The timing components breaking is what nuked both of the 4.0's that was in my car
@@CyberdriveAutomotive Mine accelerates pretty hard for a ranger. It's not going to compete with sports cars but it puts a gap on most full size pickups with V8s from a stand still. My youngest son 32 won't admit it but he traded in his 2021 Tundra for the newest twin turbo v6 Tundra because I always outran his other one. His new Tundra beats the Ranger with ease in every situation. The Ranger speed cut off hits at 86 mph now with the 4.10 gears so any fun is over pretty quick. I wanted to put the newer 3.7 in it but it's just too complicated for me and I'm feeling my age.
@@jimihendrix5576 yeah they're fun, my 4.0 was in the high 13's, beat a 2v GT from a dig and beat a 3v convertible on the freeway, I would actually be surprised when all said and done my stock 5.3 is the same speed or faster lol
Bigger throttle body.. is only a couple mill and there is big debate on wether the smaller is better so is an “eh” mod that doesnt do much unless your building your specific tune that way. I say if going with the t bird intake go mod box and hook a supercharger up to it .. easy 9lbs of safe boost.. 2k$ tho.. but that boost tho...
Interesting.. always dig ingenuity, thanks for sharing. I do have to say however, I feel the ford engineers made that bent downstream for a reason. I think I'll leave it stock to play it safe, since most people in the comments couldn't discern a performance improvement, or at worst had issues after performing the mod. To each their own of course, I do see the slight airflow improvement
This comment is purely hypothetical but facts go as.. exhaust side is pressurized and intake is vacuum... venturi effect should be minimal even with elbow in theory due to the natural equilibrium effect but my theory is the elbow is there for better mixing of the egr gases and keeping it from flooding one side or the other.. best option would be to delete the egr all together..
it’s been 2 years now and i don’t know if i should head to grab my wrenches and sawsall or what 😂 i tried the idle chop mod and love it but heard it makes the egr really hot and fouls your plugs so it’s not worth all those problems but if this would help with the egr temp and once i find a good design or build my own on/off valve i’ll be able to keep er chopping
@@shawnlibby675 because the design is flawed.. I used cloyes timing components too, lasted about a year.. why do you think v6 explorers are called exploders?
Was fine until the timing components gave out on the engine and blew it up (unrelated to the EGR mod). It's now got an LS in it I'm working on i.imgur.com/oFHbK1a.jpg
@@vernonwilliamsjr7592 Well, I had never put it on a dyno while it was stock, but I did dyno it with a v6 but after I did a few other things, which I have a video of (link to that is in this videos description)
Sport Trac flex fuel long block (higher compression), Exedy clutch/flywheel, EGR mod, shorty headers, 8.8 with 3.73's, bbk cold air intake probably forgetting a few things here or there i'm now in the middle of ls swapping it
@@mr.gadgett6091 It's coming along, engine and trans are mounted, car is currently covered in snow so I'm waiting for the weather to get a bit better haha.. aiming for first start around spring time. I plan on doing a comprehensive video going over every detail of the swap, but that will be for when it's moving.
@@CyberdriveAutomotive nope my buddy did it and his failed , California is a different animal, hard to cheat, it triggers a check engine light because the system recognizes it’s getting more air, yes EGR works but you will get a light part time or full time , also when they hook up the computer to your car they can tell, they watch the perimeters here in California through the computer screen, I know my shit bud
@@James-px8ji No check engine light ever came on mine, and my EGR functioned as normal. Mine passed smog without issue Even my own scanners showed that the EGR was working correctly You're simply wrong Your buddies car failed for another reason, sorry
lil pacc I tell no difference at all, but it’s easy to do and kind makes sense to me that pipe is in middle of air flow from intake so go ahead doesn’t hurt I have done it weeks ago cars still good 👊🏼
I see you're not worried about unequal distribution of hot EGR exhaust gases. More to some cylinders and less to others, therefore, cylinders running at different mixtures and temperatures, throwing off balance of operation and risking engine damage... Don't try this at home, kids. Or maybe just save it for someones car you don't like. BTW the 4.0 sohc has plenty of torque. But with such heavy valve train it will never be great at accelerating. Still, it will climb any hill with any load, just give a little gas and be patient. A solid long lived truck engine (once the stock chain guides are replaced...)
You're wrong about that. The way it is factory, it shoots right down the center, the first two cylinders would still get the most EGR gases, and thins out as it goes back to the rear two runners. It is the same reason why, with side mounted TB units on an in-line intake runner plenum, the last cylinder in the runners runs lean. That's like saying blocking or removing the EGR would damage all six cylinders, and that is also just not true. Many people bypass or block the EGR for more horse-power. EGR puts dirty air into the system, except at WOT when it's closed. A blocked EGR equals more complete combustion with more O2. This also means more NOx, and higher combustion chamber temps. Apparently it's fine, I have done it for years. I was milking 48 MPG out of my '13 Jetta Diesel with a closed EGR. I am milking 28 MPG from my 93 Octane Tuned 4.0 V6 Mustang.... Will see what it is after this mod.... Then I will block the EGR with a plate, and run it again. IF, by any chance the closed EGR raises temps, a lower degree T-stat will help, or tune the fans to come on earlier.
@@robertborowski7239 All true.... but keep in mind at what throttle input the EGR system actually allows exhaust entering the intake. I understand it happens only low in the rev range. So at high loads your throttle is opened big anyway, dropping the vacuum levels too.. So at wide open throttle the EGR is not working, meaning no cyllinders get exhaust gasses anyway...? As I understand it. I own 2x Rangers with the 4.0l SOHC engines here in South Africa. Combined 1 Million miles between them.
@@reinhardvandermerwe6585 My 97 Ford Ranger 4.0 Which didn't have the overhead Cam...had better power.. I picked up a 2007 V6 5 speed 4.0 and my 97 would blow the doors off and it was a 4.0 automatic 97 What's faster than mine 2007 Yeah not only that the 2007 has 410 gears and my 97 had I think 373 You would think the 2007 Is with 410 gias would be faster than my 97 their both Same size trucks club cab short bed
Same issue, If I floor it it'll go back to normal. IAC has a hard time keeping it idle when it does this too. Gonna try to rig up a makeshift egr gasket with some gasket maker when I do this mod.
Just in case anyone was wondering. This did wonders for my truck stalling at lights, I still have bogging, but I think it will be fine after replacing my wires. Make sure your IAC and EGR gaskets aren't ruined because I was pulling in a lot of extra air through there.
@@alanclark9000 about 140k when it happened to the first engine, the 2nd v6 did it too but idk how many miles it had on it, the LS is the third engine that's been in the car haha
@@yeahrightmate increase hp by at least 10, after I just cut the egr as shown on video and put it back in my 05 it felt like a completely new car better acceleration more hp not something insane but you can definitely tell the difference, also better gas mileage
Hey sorry about that, just kind of slapped this one together expecting it to get 25 views like all my other videos lmao, basically the EGR tube curves into the path of the intake air, and I just cut it so it's no longer obstructing the flow of air
Oh ok cool I said that cause I have an 4.0 and people b trying to do too much instead of just putting the money in them so that they can run but I'm proud of you bro I hope things work out for you
@@lamontmoore410 Yeah I barely did much to my 4.0, still had a stock tune. The biggest improvements were the 8.8 swap (which was important for the v8), and the Sport Trac flex fuel long block out of a junkyard (since the original engines timing components blew the engine up). Those two changes made the most difference. I had very little invested in the 4.0 and it was pretty fun, the LS is different though
Wow ok like before gud luck buddy mines is in the shop I'm just waiting on it to come out its being dyno and I'm tuning it off E85 so I really did homework before I jumped and did anything
i mean i kinda agree that people go way overboard with it but i like relatively easy/inexpensive mods that either prolong engine life because emissions components often aren’t good for much besides pleasing people that think burning fuel somehow emits cool mountain air lol, you can sometimes get little power gains from removing restrictions and i don’t mean raising the rev limiter or any other nonsense people do but a good example is on my 4.3 s10 there is a piece they have on the (for lack of better words) throttle body butterfly plate that if you remove and plug the rivet holes it greatly improves throttle response and idk if it was just in my head because i don’t have a dyno but with a CAI i believe it gave it a good bit of power but my whole point is poor people like myself most of the time can’t afford forced induction or swaps so they make the best of what they have and can afford to get for it to make it better or more to their liking, i’ll stop poor man power modding if you wanna help me fund my swap that has had a 5.3 living in my garage for almost a year 🥲😂 one day though
Cyberdrive Automotive Believe that rhetoric if you want. Engines are designed to run on a mix of fuel and oxygen, NOT burned carbon monoxide. Next you’ll tell me that all the carbon buildup in the intake manifold is also good for performance.
@@EliAngwin Except they are designed for that, and cleaning the carbon out is pretty easy with a product like Seafoam Having an EGR system does not effect performance, it doesn't even work when you're wide open throttle
@@CyberdriveAutomotive You are forgetting that we are not talking about a perfectly good working order one here, we are talking about a blocked or stuck one.
Yes, I work for myself in my explorer and I already have more than a year like this ... without any problem and yes.,it really works.
Can you please tell me how this improved your engines power ?? Thanks vf......😀😀😀😀
They may also have had the elbow there to prevent turbulence in the intake manifold, especially while the EGR is open. A round tube isn't going to inhibit flow, even more so that it's transitioned to parallel to the flow with an elbow.
The intake system is designed as a whole. Even if you theoretically increased volume and flow, doesn't mean the engine can consume any more air than it already is, especially naturally aspirated.
Butt dynos will always tell you that you got more HP. But hey, I like working on cars too, so it's whatever.
Not trying to come off as condescending or even a D**k. But Thatguythatdoesstuff, I'm pretty sure the WHOLE purpose of a super/turbo charger is to increase the volume and flow of air. Perhaps I should watch the whole video and read all the comments before commenting. Lol
How would DECREASING THE VOLUMETRIC CROSS SECTION AREA NOT DECREASE AIRFLOW? I logged MAF on hptuners before and after the mod and saw an increase. The fuel trims were also out by about 3-6%. It has better throttle response everywhere and very slightly more of up to according to 3rd and 4th gear 1250 to 6000 rpm acceleration times logged. Runs were done same day 10am with 1 hour between the before and after runs. It's not draggy accurate but fuel trims some dictate more airflow.
Well what were the results
@@CJ-tv2idyes to the engine by force induction since you to incompetent to understand that I will spell it out for you force induction is where you add to or replace the manifold with a compressor to at that time the compressor will suck air in topically through a cold air intake and either forced into the engine or manifold by a turbine or pulley system creating more air so yes the comment before yours is in fact correct and in some cases you can cause damage to the car with this mod
I'd guess it was designed that way to try and get the exhaust gas into the middle of the airflow and have it mix evenly.
By removing the tube you might be providing some cylinders more of the exhaust gas than others.
The 4.0 mustang intake manifold has a 1 foot run from the throttle body to the intake plenum, plenty of room to mix gasses. I believe Ford did this to nerf the mustang V6 performance, like they did by running a world stranded octane tune for 80 octane and the ypipe into single 2.5in exhaust instead on using the same exact catback as the GT which fits both cars with very slight modifications. The 4.0 sees really good gains from a tune and stock GT catback exhaust. The performance gap was entered to entice more buyers towards the GT but because the 3V 4.6 was so slow they needed to make the GAP bigger by any means necessary.
@@ThisisForTheTV how much closer would, if I follow your advice would I get to 300hp?
Can this be done on the Ford Ranger aswell? Specifically the SOHC 4.0L? I believe it's the same engine.
It is the same engine so it should be able to be done
You'll never see a gain by doing that. If you're only mods are an air filter and possibly a cat-back exhaust, your engine isn't sucking enough air to notice a difference. I understand the concept behind it, but it's about the equivalent of putting a more expensive set of spark plug wires on an otherwise stock engine... you just won't see or feel any noticeable gain.
how far back are you supposed to cut? As much as you can? I see yours was not cut flush but I am not sure how close I should go. also I did not see any brake cleaner applied anywhere, as long as I deburr and blow out the slag from cutting am I good to go?
Interesting. I'll keep this in mind....
I'm always looking for a way to increase power in the 4.0
Just get the 2010 GT
It turns off the front diff when not in 4wd. Gas $ saved. Get an electric fan too. Blessings.
I'll tell you what improves power ( torque) , when it comes time to do the chains in the engine get a degree wheel and give the cams 2 degrees advance when you put it back together. Also look up the brown wire mod to the transfer case. It saves gas by freeing the front diff when not in 4wd. Blessings.
Don’t do it you’ll get a check engine light
@@James-px8ji lol that matters WHY...?
What intake is that you are using? And did you put an aftermarket/larger throttle body on? If so what make and where can I get one? Thanks for the tip for the EGR too. Going to “mod” that in the next few days.
Sorry for the late response, I just noticed your comment.
I used the stock Mustang intake manifold as well as throttle body.
i dont see how a 3/8in tube will cause engine to loose power, or obstruct flow. maybe a few CFM but not much. you get more obstruction from intake itself, etc etc
Every bit helps when you're trying to min/max a platform that isn't supported by the aftermarket
Does adding a throttle spacer increase efficiency of the engine ??? Thanks
I would say no, but I haven't tested it on a dyno
Stuff like that is generally snake oil to get you to spend money
@@CyberdriveAutomotive What would you recommend that is not snake oil Sir ?? Thanks
@@victoryfirst2878 for a 4.0?
exhaust, cold air intake and ecu tune would really wake it up
i had mine beating stock 4.6 mustangs from a dig
mostly though the biggest upgrade you can do is an 8.8 rear end with 3.73 gears, that made the world of difference for me
@@CyberdriveAutomotive THANKS ....
@@CyberdriveAutomotive Automatic trans or stick with those gears??
me and tom just came up with a new mod to give you that idle chop
I don't even have a 4.0 anymore, I was putting an LS3 in the Mustang but this year set me back and I haven't touched the car since March.
I think if you put the car on a dyno, you would see no gains from such a small part being removed. If anything, this elbow is just helping mix the EGR gas evenly between cylinders and getting it away from the sides of the PLASTIC intake manifold since it's coming straight from the exhaust.
Can you do this to the 2.3 ford ranger egr system 🤔
dunno, pull it apart and find out =D
I did it to my v6 in it runs better 💯💯
Hello! Please tell me after replacing the replacement of the repair kit on a Ford Explorer 4.0 sohc began knocking and began to pour oil from the valve cover of the left head into the intake manifold in the 3 and 4 cylinders because of what it may be? Thanks!
Sounds like a bad valve cover gasket, or possibly a cracked cylinder head though that's unlikely.
If oil is coing out of the valve cover generally the gasket has gone bad, good luck!
My guess as to why ford did that was because since the gases from
The exhaust are hot it can probably melt the intake manifold. It is plastic, and the gases are pretty hot. So idk if I would do that, it can probably ruin your intake manifold
Good theory, I drove the car for a couple years like that without it melting the intake.
Maybe in the long run sure or if you have some sort of exhaust clog increasing exhaust temperature that could become an issue
Does it sound different?
nope
I have a cold air Intake, throttle body, shorty headers and full straight pipe, hope this mod actually shows improvement, I was hoping to delete the whole system, like putting a plug in the headers but I think I’d need another tune for that
Smartass Garage I’m always open throttle so I guess I’ll be fine
The 2003 4.0L Rangers don't have the EGR system on them. I did a manual swap on mine and I was hooking everything back up that's when I notice that the wires are not there. The PCM is programmed without the EGR system. Why is the case I don't know.
Mine won’t come out, any suggestions
big fucking hammer
2002 AND 2003 4.0 rangers didn't come with egr and get way better fuel mileage. I've owned my 2003 xl long bed 5 speed auto for about 10 years now. I installed Richmond 4.10 gears and a track lock and 245/70/16 Michelin tires on new oem rims. 99% of my driving is around town and I get 320 to 350 miles on every fill up not even driving easy. All the 4.0 rangers I've seen with egr get about 13 mpg. I thought the 4.10 gears would hurt my fuel mileage but it accelerates so easy now that it gained about 1 mpg over the original gearing.
Interesting, I wonder what the differences are
I know the flex fuel long blocks have higher compression than the rest of the 4.0's
Other than that I would guess it's just intake manifold differences
@@CyberdriveAutomotive My long block $700 came from a wrecked 2008 mustang with 50,000 miles on it. I put the truck intake and injection parts on it since they were different. I used new oem injectors. I've put about 50,000 more miles on it since and added 2003 mustang cobra rear disc brakes. The brakes don't feel any stronger but they are much lighter and don't get out of adjustment like drum brakes.
@@jimihendrix5576 yeah they're not bad motors, it's just that they have an achilles heal with their convoluted timing design
The timing components breaking is what nuked both of the 4.0's that was in my car
@@CyberdriveAutomotive Mine accelerates pretty hard for a ranger. It's not going to compete with sports cars but it puts a gap on most full size pickups with V8s from a stand still. My youngest son 32 won't admit it but he traded in his 2021 Tundra for the newest twin turbo v6 Tundra because I always outran his other one. His new Tundra beats the Ranger with ease in every situation. The Ranger speed cut off hits at 86 mph now with the 4.10 gears so any fun is over pretty quick. I wanted to put the newer 3.7 in it but it's just too complicated for me and I'm feeling my age.
@@jimihendrix5576 yeah they're fun, my 4.0 was in the high 13's, beat a 2v GT from a dig and beat a 3v convertible on the freeway, I would actually be surprised when all said and done my stock 5.3 is the same speed or faster lol
THE BEND IS PROBABLY BECAUSE THE HOT GASSES HITTING THE SIDE OF THE PLASTIC AND UNLESS YOU STOP THEM FROM ENTERING, WHAT EFFECT DOSE IT HAVE
NO NEED FOR ALL CAPS! It's fine been fine for years. It was Ford's way of nerfing the 4.0.
What year engine is this?
2007
Why not just delete the EGR entirely and put a plug in the header?
That's what I would like to know, would that throw up a fault code.
Great video bro!! Have you done any other mods to the 4.0? Or know of any that will help it out? Thank you bro
Do you have a thunderbird throttle body mod on your ranger?
Bigger throttle body.. is only a couple mill and there is big debate on wether the smaller is better so is an “eh” mod that doesnt do much unless your building your specific tune that way. I say if going with the t bird intake go mod box and hook a supercharger up to it .. easy 9lbs of safe boost.. 2k$ tho.. but that boost tho...
Interesting.. always dig ingenuity, thanks for sharing. I do have to say however, I feel the ford engineers made that bent downstream for a reason. I think I'll leave it stock to play it safe, since most people in the comments couldn't discern a performance improvement, or at worst had issues after performing the mod. To each their own of course, I do see the slight airflow improvement
This comment is purely hypothetical but facts go as.. exhaust side is pressurized and intake is vacuum... venturi effect should be minimal even with elbow in theory due to the natural equilibrium effect but my theory is the elbow is there for better mixing of the egr gases and keeping it from flooding one side or the other.. best option would be to delete the egr all together..
Does it throw a code tho?
Didn't throw a code for me
EGR functions just as it did prior to the mod, this is not a delete
Know it’s over a year ago, but what beat was that?
it’s been 2 years now and i don’t know if i should head to grab my wrenches and sawsall or what 😂 i tried the idle chop mod and love it but heard it makes the egr really hot and fouls your plugs so it’s not worth all those problems but if this would help with the egr temp and once i find a good design or build my own on/off valve i’ll be able to keep er chopping
How long have you been driving it like that
is that and F150 intake?
Nope, that's the stock Mustang 4.0 intake
You had a perfect place to hook up nitrous and introduce it into the intake😢. Probably didn't even gain a horse power..😅😂
Why would I put nitrous on a 4.0? I don't really feel like putting a new junkyard engine in every other week lol
The car is ls swapped now though
@CyberdriveAutomotive So now it's definitely time to add Nitrous or turbskies!😃
They like more oxygen.
Update on it running?
Car is LS swapped now haha, timing components blew the v6 up twice so I said no more XD
@@CyberdriveAutomotive How did the timing components fail again after being replaced
@@shawnlibby675 because the design is flawed.. I used cloyes timing components too, lasted about a year.. why do you think v6 explorers are called exploders?
Is that mod better if done before a CAL?
How is going now with that mod
Was fine until the timing components gave out on the engine and blew it up (unrelated to the EGR mod).
It's now got an LS in it I'm working on i.imgur.com/oFHbK1a.jpg
@@CyberdriveAutomotive so how much extra horsepower was yu getting
@@vernonwilliamsjr7592 Well, I had never put it on a dyno while it was stock, but I did dyno it with a v6 but after I did a few other things, which I have a video of (link to that is in this videos description)
How does this work for the 2011 ford ranger 4.0?
I'm not sure but if the EGR pipe goes into the intake like it does on the Mustang there might be a small gain to be made
@@CyberdriveAutomotive mines is placed in position very similar to yours and it looks just alike
What are all the mods done to that 4.0
Sport Trac flex fuel long block (higher compression), Exedy clutch/flywheel, EGR mod, shorty headers, 8.8 with 3.73's, bbk cold air intake
probably forgetting a few things here or there
i'm now in the middle of ls swapping it
@@CyberdriveAutomotive woah how has the LS swap gone?????
@@mr.gadgett6091 It's coming along, engine and trans are mounted, car is currently covered in snow so I'm waiting for the weather to get a bit better haha.. aiming for first start around spring time.
I plan on doing a comprehensive video going over every detail of the swap, but that will be for when it's moving.
@@CyberdriveAutomotive That sounds so awesome!!
@@mr.gadgett6091 It should be a blast!
GM Tuned Port Injection intake manifold on the bench and the runners sitting on the shelf to the right! Love that motor!
Go TPI!!!
Anyone else tried this sense? Wanted to know before I did it
Won’t pass smog and you will get a check engine light ,
It will not trigger a check engine light and smog will still pass
Easy to assume, though
@@CyberdriveAutomotive no not in California, no way
@@James-px8ji Your EGR still works lmao, it would pass smog and not trigger a check engine light
@@CyberdriveAutomotive nope my buddy did it and his failed , California is a different animal, hard to cheat, it triggers a check engine light because the system recognizes it’s getting more air, yes EGR works but you will get a light part time or full time , also when they hook up the computer to your car they can tell, they watch the perimeters here in California through the computer screen, I know my shit bud
@@James-px8ji No check engine light ever came on mine, and my EGR functioned as normal.
Mine passed smog without issue
Even my own scanners showed that the EGR was working correctly
You're simply wrong
Your buddies car failed for another reason, sorry
hmm i'm deleting my EGR valve since it doesn't clear the hood anymore, guess i'll get in there and cut that out.
Wait what is this a joke
Yes.
The camera angle was too far away to really see what you were doing and you spoke too fast.
Appreciate that feedback, was still pretty new to this whole thing when I did this.
Thank you!
Did you get a noticeable difference in power
Smartass Garage oh ok I may do it to my mustang
I did it yesterday roads to wet to tell deference, but seems like it was little different for the better I’ll drive around more get back 👊🏼 later
Wyatt Hunter tell me
lil pacc I tell no difference at all, but it’s easy to do and kind makes sense to me that pipe is in middle of air flow from intake so go ahead doesn’t hurt I have done it weeks ago cars still good 👊🏼
Sounds good 👍 thanks
Wyatt Hunter meh my 10 v6 didnt like it ...
lil pacc didn’t like it?What is your opinion? I didn’t tell but made sense freeing up space for CAI to breath less resistance.
Any EGR flow codes?
No.
I see you're not worried about unequal distribution of hot EGR exhaust gases.
More to some cylinders and less to others, therefore, cylinders running at different mixtures and temperatures,
throwing off balance of operation and risking engine damage...
Don't try this at home, kids. Or maybe just save it for someones car you don't like.
BTW the 4.0 sohc has plenty of torque.
But with such heavy valve train it will never be great at accelerating.
Still, it will climb any hill with any load, just give a little gas and be patient.
A solid long lived truck engine (once the stock chain guides are replaced...)
You're wrong about that. The way it is factory, it shoots right down the center, the first two cylinders
would still get the most EGR gases, and thins out as it goes back to the rear two runners. It is the same
reason why, with side mounted TB units on an in-line intake runner plenum, the last cylinder in the
runners runs lean.
That's like saying blocking or removing the EGR would damage all six cylinders, and that is also just
not true. Many people bypass or block the EGR for more horse-power. EGR puts dirty air into the
system, except at WOT when it's closed. A blocked EGR equals more complete combustion with more
O2. This also means more NOx, and higher combustion chamber temps. Apparently it's fine, I have
done it for years. I was milking 48 MPG out of my '13 Jetta Diesel with a closed EGR. I am milking
28 MPG from my 93 Octane Tuned 4.0 V6 Mustang.... Will see what it is after this mod.... Then I will
block the EGR with a plate, and run it again.
IF, by any chance the closed EGR raises temps, a lower degree T-stat will help, or tune the fans to come
on earlier.
@@robertborowski7239 All true.... but keep in mind at what throttle input the EGR system actually allows exhaust entering the intake. I understand it happens only low in the rev range. So at high loads your throttle is opened big anyway, dropping the vacuum levels too..
So at wide open throttle the EGR is not working, meaning no cyllinders get exhaust gasses anyway...? As I understand it.
I own 2x Rangers with the 4.0l SOHC engines here in South Africa. Combined 1 Million miles between them.
@@reinhardvandermerwe6585 My 97 Ford Ranger 4.0 Which didn't have the overhead Cam...had better power.. I picked up a 2007 V6 5 speed 4.0 and my 97 would blow the doors off and it was a 4.0 automatic 97 What's faster than mine 2007 Yeah not only that the 2007 has 410 gears and my 97 had I think 373 You would think the 2007 Is with 410 gias would be faster than my 97 their both Same size trucks club cab short bed
What were the power increases?
Tl:dw? Hack up factory parts without any numbers to rationalize because a guy on facespace said so.
ahahahah you prob have ford wipe your a$$ with oem paper
Well my car started hesitating. When it gets around 30mph and sound weird at 3000rpm
Same issue, If I floor it it'll go back to normal. IAC has a hard time keeping it idle when it does this too. Gonna try to rig up a makeshift egr gasket with some gasket maker when I do this mod.
Just in case anyone was wondering. This did wonders for my truck stalling at lights, I still have bogging, but I think it will be fine after replacing my wires. Make sure your IAC and EGR gaskets aren't ruined because I was pulling in a lot of extra air through there.
Is the car still running good?
Timing components went bad and nuked the engine, the car is now being LS swapped but I haven't made any progress lately
@@CyberdriveAutomotive how many miles was on this car when this happened?
@@alanclark9000 about 140k when it happened to the first engine, the 2nd v6 did it too but idk how many miles it had on it, the LS is the third engine that's been in the car haha
@@CyberdriveAutomotive so you would say that the timing chain on ford motors don't hold up as good as toyota 3.4 or 4runner?
@@alanclark9000 No idea, never owned one haha
Did it to my 2005 mustang, definitely works lol
When you say it works, what did it do.
@@yeahrightmate increase hp by at least 10, after I just cut the egr as shown on video and put it back in my 05 it felt like a completely new car better acceleration more hp not something insane but you can definitely tell the difference, also better gas mileage
@@trumptrain8745 Ok thanks.
Your camera was to out of focus to tell what it was u were cutting off it was confusing to figure out
Hey sorry about that, just kind of slapped this one together expecting it to get 25 views like all my other videos lmao, basically the EGR tube curves into the path of the intake air, and I just cut it so it's no longer obstructing the flow of air
did you get any codes or warning lights
Lol I did this over 20 years ago. Nothing new
Fuck it I read all the comments and I’m convinced ima do it
which fails to hold an egr in bad stub
mira soi mexicano y lo escribi en traductor google
que falla ase un egr en mal estado ?
Bro just swap the engine or get a supercharger or turbocharger yal b killin me with these videos seriously 🤦♂️
Lol, I'm putting an ls3 in the car
My n/a v6 was beating stock 3v's though, it was pretty fun
Oh ok cool I said that cause I have an 4.0 and people b trying to do too much instead of just putting the money in them so that they can run but I'm proud of you bro I hope things work out for you
@@lamontmoore410 Yeah I barely did much to my 4.0, still had a stock tune.
The biggest improvements were the 8.8 swap (which was important for the v8), and the Sport Trac flex fuel long block out of a junkyard (since the original engines timing components blew the engine up). Those two changes made the most difference.
I had very little invested in the 4.0 and it was pretty fun, the LS is different though
Wow ok like before gud luck buddy mines is in the shop I'm just waiting on it to come out its being dyno and I'm tuning it off E85 so I really did homework before I jumped and did anything
i mean i kinda agree that people go way overboard with it but i like relatively easy/inexpensive mods that either prolong engine life because emissions components often aren’t good for much besides pleasing people that think burning fuel somehow emits cool mountain air lol, you can sometimes get little power gains from removing restrictions and i don’t mean raising the rev limiter or any other nonsense people do but a good example is on my 4.3 s10 there is a piece they have on the (for lack of better words) throttle body butterfly plate that if you remove and plug the rivet holes it greatly improves throttle response and idk if it was just in my head because i don’t have a dyno but with a CAI i believe it gave it a good bit of power but my whole point is poor people like myself most of the time can’t afford forced induction or swaps so they make the best of what they have and can afford to get for it to make it better or more to their liking, i’ll stop poor man power modding if you wanna help me fund my swap that has had a 5.3 living in my garage for almost a year 🥲😂 one day though
Update I did it and I nothing happened I drove it on the highway and I didn’t notice anything but my egr was dirty af so yeeee
Cyberdrive Automotive safe to say this mod is for more better throttle response
Just block it off.
Nah, removing the EGR doesn't improve performance and when you're wide open throttle the EGR system isn't even active.
Cyberdrive Automotive
Believe that rhetoric if you want.
Engines are designed to run on a mix of fuel and oxygen, NOT burned carbon monoxide.
Next you’ll tell me that all the carbon buildup in the intake manifold is also good for performance.
@@EliAngwin Except they are designed for that, and cleaning the carbon out is pretty easy with a product like Seafoam
Having an EGR system does not effect performance, it doesn't even work when you're wide open throttle
@@CyberdriveAutomotive You are forgetting that we are not talking about a perfectly good working order one here, we are talking about a blocked or stuck one.
@@EliAngwin Do you know if you can just block off the pipes and it won't throw any fault codes because I think that would be way better.
Just stealth deleat that pos it’s no good for ur engine it’s just to make the snow flakes happy and extort money and power
Yah....no. But cool effort.
Nice socks my dude
Lol
ultimate EGRmod.....DELETE!
Do you mean block it off? Does that cause any fault codes.
Damn...lot of view!
Best thing to do if you can afford it is buy a car with a V8
Nah, best thing to do is buy a v6 car and v8 swap it.
That way you're still paying v6 insurance rates.