Unlock the Full Potential of Your Solar Power! ☀️
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ธ.ค. 2024
- Are you maximizing your solar power output, or could overpaneling be holding you back?
In this video, we dive deep into the concept of over paneling solar panels and its impact on your energy efficiency. Discover the essential components of an off-grid solar system and learn why over paneling might not be the best approach. Instead, I’ll share effective strategies to optimize your solar setup for maximum performance.
Join me as we explore the best practices for harnessing solar energy and ensuring you get the most out of your investment!
#solarpanel #solar #offgridsystem
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You are correct, sir. Especially, as you say, to use multiple array orientations with multiple charge controllers.
Great content! ❤
You nailed it! Multiple arrays facing different directions is the way to go!
Another very important trade-off is between your investment in solar panels and your investment in batteries. With sufficient battery storage just situating the (fewer) solar panels in an optimal direction gives you the most daily energy production. Usually. But if you don't have the money to invest in that much battery storage, having more solar panels with a string pointing Eastward (morning) and Westward (evening) can give you roughly 2 to 2.5 more hours of "decent" generation across the day, reducing the overnight hours that the battery needs to support from (say) 18 hours to 15-16 hours. Roughly speaking.
Given how cheap solar panels have become, this type of optimization can make ends meet when one does not have the funds to invest in sufficient battery storage.
Having these additional arrays also tends to do better in Winter when party-cloudy skies might have periods of clearing outside the optimal solar peak, and you get the benefit from all the arrays when only ambient light is available due to clouds.
The rule of thumb, for winter off-grid, is to try to reduce (gas) generator run times to just a few hours a day. Usually by topping-up the battery bank in the late afternoon (after 5pm) to 100% to guarantee sufficient energy for overnight operation and any battery bank heating that might have to occur through to the next morning.
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Any substantial off-grid system should really be doing 24V or 48V (48V preferred) battery banks to improve efficiency, reduce cable sizes, and vastly improve the maximum wattage the charge controller(s) can take in for any given amperage rating (2x for 24V, 4x for 48V, verses 12V). Many of the old "overpaneling" methodologies were done out of necessity because people were using 12V battery banks where dealing with high amperages translated to substantial cabling and costs.
With 24V and 48V battery banks, the charger controllers can have modest amperage ratings with outsized power handling. For example, the very same 35A charge controller can push 448W to a 12V system, 896W to a 24V system, and 1792W to a 48V system.
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Something else I will note about Mono vs Poly panels... both types (of older panels) have been supplanted by bifacial half-cut panels which generally do extremely well in cloudy / ambient / low-light conditions... far better than older poly panels ever could. Today you more or less always get modern bifacial panels even for flush roof mounts.
-Matt
That's a great explanation of the trade-offs and I agree, bifacial panels are really the way to go these days!
Agreed. I see soo many people designing their systems to max out the charge controllers. I have a 75/15 and 4 200wat panels. The trick is i have the panels parraleled and angled to produce at different times of the day. .
The system still produces great in cloudy weather
You got it! Great way to optimize!
I have both types and the Polly panels seem to work better on cloudy days then the Mono panels. I have seen times when the Mono panels will stop producing anything on very cloudy days and yet the Polly panels are still producing.
That's what I've heard too.
What a crazy world, could any of us have imagined free power from the sun and lithium batteries today
It really is amazing!
For my river camp . I have my panels set at different angles. I dont have the peak exactly. but i produce all day long . With an emphasis on the evening hours
That's a great approach to get power throughout the day!
Yes, a larger charge controller is a great remedy for overpaneling. However, I'm experimenting with another theory to capture more sunlight before and after peak hours. To simplify things, let's say you have eight (8) 100-watt panels, 4 panels aligned for peak hours (11am-1pm), 2 panels aligned a few degrees East, and 2 panels a few degrees West. Theoretically also capturing sunlight between 9am-11am, and 1pm-4pm. This would provide a more consistent (6-hour span) solar input, versus the "peak hours". Because a High-quality Solar Tracker is pricey.
Essentially what suggest. Though I'd use multiple controllers
@@TheOldJarhead ~ Thanks 😎
You bet
As soon as i was over paneled, i put in a second charge controller to handle the extra power.
Good move!
Obverpaneling never gets old, lol
lol
Another way to get more power out of your panels is to invest in a solar tracker. 30-40% gain by trackers.
True though typically they are more expensive then adding panels.
@@TheOldJarheadnot to mention moving parts which means maintenance
True -- I have seen some inexpensive trackers but most are very expensive and typically only give about 25% more production. By adding more panels you can get that production for less. Even better, add the panels facing a different direction.
You convinced me to invest in more MPPTs and arrays so i can have array #2 set for early morning capture. Just have the same MPPTs with the same output settings, tied in parallel.
That should work fine! You'll love it!
Other than the settings. You can mix and match panels and MPPTs . The batteries don't care . As long as the settings are the same
@joshkelly3743 ill pass on mixing panels
I have two completely different arrays which is what he's referring too. You can do that all day long.
@@ewokjerky4508 not mixing panels in a string. Tho that can work
My x2 200w bifacial panels have pulled 420w , these panels are almost pulling their rated
Bufacial panel are the best!
I'm over paneled, as in, I've paneled for the worst days of solar production. Each string has its own mppt so I'm not overpaneled as suggested in this video.
Typically 'overpaneling' refers to putting in more total solar wattage that the charge controller is rated for.
In your case, I'm the same. I have considerably more power than I need in the summer but just enough in the winter :)
I'd love to hear a discussion on PV Direct loads for excess power. Like a transfer switch to a big ice maker for when batteries are full.
I've been thinking about doing that as at least one of my cc's has a load feature to do just that but haven't used it yet
@@TheOldJarhead I'd love to know the model of your charge controller that has a transfer switch. That sounds perfect!
I didn't say it had one. However, it does have a load option, which can be set to a 'light' option, which by their explanation means 'solar' light. However, my big controller does not, and that's the one I'd want to do that with, if any.
Some are also programmable, but I think a dump load like those used in the wind would be better.
In cold temperatures, do the panels produce more volts or more amps, or more of both above the rating? I’m trying to find out what buffer to plan in equipment, but haven’t found the answer.
I'd have to check the amperage, but the voltage goes up. I've seen 60+volts on my 54v array in winter!
More volts and slightly lower amps, but the voltage is dominant. You can find the numbers on solar panel spec sheets.
Thanks
if you installed a correct charge controller in the first place adding a larger one will give no benefit so you will still have to add panels to get more power. for off grid systems no matter how you build a system to get enough power in the shorter winter days(more of an issue the further north you are) you will have an excess for a good part to the longer days. clipping is not as much of a problem in the summer as being low on power in the winter. plus i am not sure you mentioned that over paneling will give you in increase even in the off peak hours which means an increase thru out the day that a larger charge controller will not do. and add to that that clouds are unpredictable so you may not have full sun at any time, more panels should mean more power when ever the sun shines. there are many options on how to get the power you need/want and it is good to think about what will work best for each individual system. there are places that are now installing panels facing north just to utilize the space they have to get more production(grid tied systems)and this would have been laughable a few years ago.
The thing is, installing a charge controller, as I stated, that can take ALL the power you can produce at peak output will not hinder production in poorer conditions. Over paneling doesn't increase production it just appears to.
A larger CC (properly sized for your array) will allow all the power your panels can produce, winter, summer, cold, hot, doesn't matter. One that is too small (IMO anything rated less than total solar potential is too small) only clips the power above it's rated wattage but doesn't increase power production at lower light.
People do this sort of thing because they either think it will generate more power (it won't) or they didn't size the system enough to begin with. Adding another 300w panel to a 2000w array WILL help in lower light conditions -- but it will help whether you put in a large CC or not.
At issue, for some, seems to be using AIO systems (All In One) which I'm not a proponent of though they have their place, specially in cabins where you don't want to spend as much as like the ease of install etc. However, it doesn't mean you can't add another CC (and associated breakers etc) if you need more production and rather than over panel, I'd advocate for arrays facing different directions.
@@TheOldJarhead different ways of solving a problem such as not enough power in the shorter winter days. i am not aware of any fix that wont have your system producing far more energy than you can use in summer while providing enough in winter so clipping during summer is not really a problem if you are making everything you need and still can get an increase in through out the whole day in winter. and yes over paneling gives you a wider bell curve even with a smaller charge controller. i think we are just emphasizing different methods, each works and the individual should review what is better for their particular system
True, though I use a lot more power in the summer and never need my generator 😉
Well said! A very easy to understand and use!
Glad you liked it!
Good Evening ! Hope you had a Great Christmas. Thank You. I was going to look for good, 300 + watt poly panels any SUGGESTIONS. TAKE CARE..
Thanks! Chech out A1 Solar and Sunelec also Signature Solar. I'm all about the best prices for the wattage, so check them all out, but BiFacial panels would be best.
@@TheOldJarhead Thank You ! TAKE CARE..
You bet!
My main goal is make power in overcast.I have 4 x 3000w inputs, 3 run at 2790, 1 at 3300w , winter sun snow and vertical panels , the 2790's can get 3400w, the 3300w got to 3800w before it overamped the mppt, shuts down and restarts the string, I put 1 stick in front of a panel it runs at 3000w , I will be adding 1 panel to 2 strings and shade them too, the reason I do not see the sun in winter, since overcast will be unaffected by the shading stick I get more power in clouds. Today no sun but got a decent 11kw, lately the dark day lows are 5kw. The inverters sold these days should have more AMP ability, I run very close to the 14A max with my volts 200V under max in winter sun when it shows itself. I think everyone should get a EG4 18kw pv and stuff it full, 2x 16 A strings and a parallel at 26A can run 24kw pv total not all usable but in overcast I would mind making 3+kw for 4 hours, $12k upgrade vs $300 in gen fuel per year.
Happy holidays.
This doesn't make sense to me. Why not just reduce that array to 3kw? Shading us reducing.
That's also a problem with the AIO units: restricted to what they put in it. A component system allows a lot more flexibility
@@TheOldJarhead The pv only goes over with snowfall, in feb or march I take the stick out it only has to cover a few cells at noon, in summer my 11.6kw is cut by 50% because it is vertical, once I put white rock or polished metal under the panels it will go back up to 9kw but really not needed I could run it all off 1 array march to sept. Having the extra shaded panel helps the overcast production. Today I got 4100w for 7 mins then back to 1100w overcast. The whole system was undersized by my mistake, not telling my dealer I was going to use electric heat. Why I started with 24kw then went to 48kw quick.
interesting
I have a 900 watt max PV input on my 12 volt system do I have 4 200 watt bifacial panels 🤷♂️
So not do 😂😅 and it's a 60 Amp Mppt
That works! Put's just just under the MPPT max 😁👍
Got it 👌Sounds like you've got it figured!
Switch to victron, gain 50 to 100 percent because of how fast their tracking is.
One day I hope to test them out
So what I'm hearing is: overpannelling is good if it is in service of future upgrades
I suppose that's one way to look at it though I'd argue putting in a larger CC allows for future addition of panels as need vs having to replace the cc in the future though it's kind 6 of one, half a dozen for the other ;)
Think most of that stuff boils down to people having some kind of crazy desire to push their equipment to it's limits. Possibly motor heads that used to buy their hotrods and burn tires off the wheels and blow engines to feed their need for speed. They just switched over to solar power. 😂
Haha, you might be onto something there! I think the issue is some really good salesman. That, and people buying All in one systems that are too small and trying to get a little more out of them.
You will find out very shortly that when cold weather hits and the cloudiness sets in, that your solar panels WILL NOT be enough to keep your batteries charged or your home powered.
I am over-paneled and that is not enough.
The sun is much lower in the sky and it has been raining for about a month.
I have had to turn off all my solar systems and run chargers constantly.
Keep an eye on your batteries or they will get depleted to 0 very quickly.
I have 12 household circuits that are off-grid with grid backup.
In the summertime, it is great... In the winter, solar is worthless.
If you use an electric blanket to keep your batteries warm, it will drain your batteries completely very quickly.
After nearly 15 years? Living at the cabin for over a year, at nearly 49 degrees? With at best 2hrs of sun in the winter on a good day? I've got all the power I need because I cn charge my batteries in an hour of sun and no longer need my backup generator unless there is virtually no production at all, even on my ground mount panels and frankly, I've not experienced that since 2017 when I added 1800+w of solar and a 2nd MPPT 😊😁
@TheOldJarhead wow that is good I wish I could do that how did you do it
@TheOldJarhead I have a total of about six strings of 750 watt panels and none of them are putting out anything to charge my batteries
In full sun? Seems something is wrong. I'd check voltage at the panels before the breakers, then after the breakers and so on.
@TheOldJarhead I did, we have not had full sun in a month
It sounds like you're sacrificing hours of off peak charging capacity to optimize 45 minutes of solar noon.
Not at all. I'm getting more power throughout the cycle this way because I am also getting that peak output.
@@TheOldJarheadExcept that over paneling allows the system to start charging earlier, continue charging later, & produce more power during all the hours that aren't producing the maximum which, in lower light conditions might also include solar noon
I don't see it. Whether you have a 2k controller or a 2.5k one and 2399w of solar both will pick up the power as soon as it comes in and deliver it.
@@TheOldJarhead With an over paneled array wired in series they will reach the charge starting voltage with less light so charging will start earlier in the day & will continue later into the afternoon. It will also be producing more power until you reach the maximum out of your controller if you ever even do. Basically, if you graph out power production for a day, the over paneled graph will be wider & all points below maximum will be higher which will increase the area under the curve by way more than just the hour or less of solar noon when you may not even be producing the maximum possible power of the charge controller
Yes, but the same thing happens with a larger controller. There is no magic. It's power. It's power, I've delt with it for 30 years. A smaller controller doesn't produce more power, period.
Give same slides, calculations etc.... talk without docs is not helping much
I'm sorry you feel that way - I did think about pulling logs and using those but at the moment that would be difficult. What it is you didn't follow?
Don't you think you should have MENTIONED the fact that there are TWO TYPES of charge controllers? Above you head and to YOUR left you have a MPPT charge controller that will produce about 15% to 30% more power per day than a PWM charge controller. If someone watches this video and goes out and buy a PWM charge controller they will NOT GET MORE POWER they will be getting 15% to 30% LESS power per day than if they would have spent some more money and get a MPPT charge controller.
Since you did not say a SINGLE word about the TWO different types of charge controllers this video get a BIG THUMBS DOWN FROM ME.
Hmmm interesting point and though I've discussed both in other videos, and though PWM controllers are harder to find today, and though no on I know would arise getting a PWM controller in most cases I suppose you could make that point.
However, I would advise that you consider the alternative: if someone has a PWM controller that is too small and goes and gets another larger one, the principle is the same. Re: they will get more power.
Finally, if someone has an MPPT controller and goes out and buys a PWM controller, they should probably get some help rather than watch one short video.
As such, I give your comment two thumbs down. 🤣