Hi! Did you buy the copper washer in a hardware/mechanic store or are they bmw original? I googled and found out they are designated as A10X13,5-CU which is just a standard DIN 7603 washer element and you can get them for much cheaper. Cheers!
your felt pad isnt cracked its supposed to be like that . all it does is stop the push rod rattling . you need to pull the clutch , then open it , then close it then let go one the clutch
Correct, pull the clutch lever and open the bleed nipple. Once the clutch lever is pulled in fully, lock the the nipple back up and then let the leaver out. Repeat until no bubbles are showing. Good video and thanks for taking the time to share with others.
Dude thanks so much for posting this. 2006 GS here with almost identical clutch actuation issues as you described. Lots of little tips you mentioned that should help this go even smoother.
Thanks for the video. A few questions as I suspect my slave is out on my '09 R 1200 GSA. After driving a few hours on the highway my clutch was very soft and would not engage fully making it difficult to downshift. I am a new owner of the GSA and definitely not a bike mechanical, so some elementary questions here.... Did you drain the old clutch fluid when the old slave was still on the bike or did you first replace the slave and then drain? How do you drain? I suspect you just pulled the clutch in and released. You then repeated the process until no more fluid comes out? To fill with the new clutch fluid did you fill the clutch reservoir with fluid and close the lid? At this point did you open the bleeder valve and pull in the clutch and slowly release it. Only after releasing the clutch is when you tightened the valve, correct? Assuming this is correct you would then immediately opened the valve back up to repeat the process? I would have thought you might have tightened the valve before releasing the clutch? Finally about how many times did you have have to pull the clutch in and release to move the fluid thru the system before adding additional fluid to the reservoir? Any other helpful hints are appreciated. Thanks again.
It's been awhile so I can't remember exactly how I did that bleeding process but the cap was off and I filled it from the top. It's actually a super-easy process. If you don't bleed it right you'll immediately feel a squish in the play. Feel free to reach out at eric.hall@xladv.com thanks
It sounds like you're assuming the rattle is due to the felt gasket in there is either gone or worn out? Chances are your rattle could be something else. Unless your clutch isn't working, I'd leave it alone and hunt for the rattle somewhere else or just live with it.
I have exactly the same problem on my R1100S. When hot I loose the clutch, once cold I regain it. I am waiting on delivery of the slave cylinder to replace it. I’ve already drained the hydraulic fluid and I’m worried about the color. It was the same as yours. Blackish... Almost like used motor oil. I’m afraid it may have been contaminated by transmission oil, from a failure on the input shaft rear seal. Your slave housing also looked a little messy. Have you had any further problems?
No issues. Common to have it be dark I think due to exposure to air over time. It's mineral oil and not brake fluid so I think it still works okay even if discolored. Good luck!
Mine is still DOT4 brake fluid. I’ll remove the slave cylinder to inspect. I’ll also remove the starter engine to inspect clutch as for transmission oil or dot4 contamination...
Hey Eric. Thank you for taking the time to post this video. There aren't a lot of visual guides and I get to replace my slave on my 08 R12RT. And thank you for stating the size of the tube from Lowes!! You just made life a little easier.
Great video. Im having the same issue on my 07. Thanks for making this video
Thanks for doing this, helped me out with my issues (river crossings) mushy clutch.
thanks for your video, I had the same problem and been forced to drive back home without a clutch for more than 800 km :(
great video thank you for the help same problem i had
Hi! Did you buy the copper washer in a hardware/mechanic store or are they bmw original? I googled and found out they are designated as A10X13,5-CU which is just a standard DIN 7603 washer element and you can get them for much cheaper. Cheers!
Not sure I recall. The clutch slave has no washer but the clutch line may and I do believe I got new washers for that
hi thanks great video, did it fix the problem ? was you finding it had to drop down the gears
It did fix my problem which was the clutch wasn't working
Had a clutch problem and discovered my slave nuts fell out. Can I just replace the screws ??
Not nuts but screws
great vid. thanks much! how did you get the cap off of the handlebar fluid rez. ??
I think it just screws off if I'm not mistaken.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks for doing this, helped me out with my issues (river crossings) mushy clutch.
Thanks for taking the time to create this video, I need to do this job and this has helped me massively. 👍🏻
Just wondering how the repair went. My slave cylinder had the same issue. Replaced it and now the clutch is slipping. The pushrod was wet.
Cool vid, cheers for posting as this sounds exactly what mine is doing right now
your felt pad isnt cracked its supposed to be like that . all it does is stop the push rod rattling . you need to pull the clutch , then open it , then close it then let go one the clutch
I realized that later and corrected it on screen where it says "this is the way it comes"
thanks for this correction - just watched the video but he said the reverse -- thanks for this correcction
Right. Close the bleeder before letting the clutch lever back out, otherwise it won't "push" fluid through. It is after all a piston and cylinder .
Correct, pull the clutch lever and open the bleed nipple. Once the clutch lever is pulled in fully, lock the the nipple back up and then let the leaver out. Repeat until no bubbles are showing. Good video and thanks for taking the time to share with others.
You don't need to take off the wheel and the shock to service Slave cylinder!!!!
I actually had to send it in for service anyways, plus it gave me more room but you're probably right
That was one blurry video.
Thanks bro. Help me alot
Good video, thank you .
Thanks for posting.
Good info thanks. I have added this to my collection. Does the pushrods just pull straight out when the slave cylinder is removed?
Thanks for watching! Yeah the push rod is just loose in there and will either come out with the slave or stay in the hole and you just pull it out
Thank you. Exelent video! I have the same problem. Learned a lot.
Dude thanks so much for posting this. 2006 GS here with almost identical clutch actuation issues as you described. Lots of little tips you mentioned that should help this go even smoother.
Fantastic posting as this video, exactly was experiencing and what I am doing right now
Hi in the 2004 rgs1150 adv is the same location of the slave cyl?
thanks had to make it home with clutch loss due to slave cylinder
Thanks for the video. A few questions as I suspect my slave is out on my '09 R 1200 GSA. After driving a few hours on the highway my clutch was very soft and would not engage fully making it difficult to downshift. I am a new owner of the GSA and definitely not a bike mechanical, so some elementary questions here....
Did you drain the old clutch fluid when the old slave was still on the bike or did you first replace the slave and then drain? How do you drain? I suspect you just pulled the clutch in and released. You then repeated the process until no more fluid comes out?
To fill with the new clutch fluid did you fill the clutch reservoir with fluid and close the lid? At this point did you open the bleeder valve and pull in the clutch and slowly release it. Only after releasing the clutch is when you tightened the valve, correct? Assuming this is correct you would then immediately opened the valve back up to repeat the process? I would have thought you might have tightened the valve before releasing the clutch?
Finally about how many times did you have have to pull the clutch in and release to move the fluid thru the system before adding additional fluid to the reservoir? Any other helpful hints are appreciated. Thanks again.
It's been awhile so I can't remember exactly how I did that bleeding process but the cap was off and I filled it from the top. It's actually a super-easy process. If you don't bleed it right you'll immediately feel a squish in the play. Feel free to reach out at eric.hall@xladv.com thanks
Hey. I was going to take my slave off to replace the felt gasket. To stop the rattle. Do I need another parts apart from the new felt pad?
It sounds like you're assuming the rattle is due to the felt gasket in there is either gone or worn out? Chances are your rattle could be something else. Unless your clutch isn't working, I'd leave it alone and hunt for the rattle somewhere else or just live with it.
I have exactly the same problem on my R1100S. When hot I loose the clutch, once cold I regain it. I am waiting on delivery of the slave cylinder to replace it. I’ve already drained the hydraulic fluid and I’m worried about the color. It was the same as yours. Blackish... Almost like used motor oil.
I’m afraid it may have been contaminated by transmission oil, from a failure on the input shaft rear seal. Your slave housing also looked a little messy. Have you had any further problems?
No issues. Common to have it be dark I think due to exposure to air over time. It's mineral oil and not brake fluid so I think it still works okay even if discolored. Good luck!
Mine is still DOT4 brake fluid. I’ll remove the slave cylinder to inspect. I’ll also remove the starter engine to inspect clutch as for transmission oil or dot4 contamination...
Thanks Eric
Hey Eric. Thank you for taking the time to post this video. There aren't a lot of visual guides and I get to replace my slave on my 08 R12RT. And thank you for stating the size of the tube from Lowes!! You just made life a little easier.