Improving A GREAT Compost System | MORE COMPOST, EASY, BIOREACTOR
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ต.ค. 2024
- I set out to iterate and improve the traditional Johnson-Su Bioreactor design to make it easier to make compost. In this video, I show the new composter design and go over the reasons why I tried to improve the Johnson-Su bioreactor. The new composter doesn't use any plastic and should last a very long time. Overall Johnson-Su bioreactors are a great way to make a lot of high-quality compost in a small space. They are also an easy way to make compost. Build the bioreactor, fill it, and then wait for compost.
Build a Johnson-Su Bioreactor:
• Easy Composting with a...
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Zoolander references have made me a life long fan.
The proof is in the biology after one year
Nice design and love the name! I might take it a step further and just build a two foot thick composting wall around my garden.
😆
Diego Footer So would the math on a straight 2” wall work? Sure seems to solve for scaling and ease of filling etc.
Interesting design, I can imagine this working great!
One thing I would change though:
My guess would be that you don't have enough air exchange at the bottom of the inner tube. Thus the air gets enriched with CO2 and depleted of Oxygen overtime, maybe causing anaerobic spots in some areas. I think this will happen because in the original design, the air in the columns heats up and rises to the top causing fresh air to be pulled in from underneath. This can't happen here. Maybe, if the inner ring is big enough, air exchange won't be a problem because it may be circulating in the inner ring similar to what happens in a lava lamp.
My change would be installing some air flow pipes (can be metal if you don't want pvc) that span from the outer to the inner ring on the bottom of the reactor. This way you still have ground contact, no plastic, and you restore the air flow dynamics of the original bioreactor design.
I could be mistaken though. If you can get your hands on a CO2 measuring device, it would be really interesting if the levels of CO2 in the lower area of the inner ring are higher than in ambient air.
Greetings from Germany, keep up the good work!
Good suggestion. I almost did that, but backed off at the end. I talk about that in the next video. I will build another one doing that.
@@DiegoFooter The simpler the design, the better. If it works this way: Great, let's find out :-) Looking forward to the next video.
Be careful if you use galvanized pipe, in fact I wouldn't at all. When galvanized materials are heated they can give off a dangerous gas. Not sure if the heat in compost would get hot enough to gas off the galvie, but I'd use something else.
You'll probably cover this in the next video(s) but are you seeing a good amount of earth worms?
I was thinking that the original design with the pallet would just need a few holes in the bottom that would allow the material to make ground contact in 1x1ft "worm bridges".
That would provide the best of both worlds and it wouldn't add much headache to the build.
But if it works without having to be elevated at all, so much the better.
I converted my compost bin from wood pallets to a bioreactor. No landscaping fabric, no bottom pallet, just added the venting tubes. Make the tubes long enough and put a cap on them when filling. Just filled the bottom and compacted it a bit down to hold tubes upright. Filled it, got really hot, now a bit cooled down. So far so good.
cool!i Your presentation made me feel better about my Winter composting method but I cover the whole garden with cardboard, then add my compost materials, and insert sticks vertically into the compost pile/garden for air. No turning, no moving, and no sifting are required but my wait time is 4-6 months before I plant again.
I am really liking your channel lately, I feel like with this focus on cover crops, soil, and composting of the cover crops you have found an interesting rich area to explore. Spinning off lots of good content.
Thanks!
This sounds like a good idea to me and I’m going to give it a try. Thanks for sharing!
The concept is good, however, I have some concerns.
1. Building it directly on the ground, the center cage will allow air to the center, but would become stagnate as there is no circulation, digging a well by hand to a depth of some 20 + feet down we found the air stagnates and had to put a flexible pipe in with a fan blowing air down to circulate the area. The same thing would apply to this design. A way to overcome this would be to place several 4-inch pipes on the ground to the center of the pile to allow circulation. This is not a problem with David's design using through holes, as cool air enters from under and as it warms up, rises providing fresh oxygen-rich air.
2. Although air can make its way to around 12 inches into a pile, in David's design, the air only has to push in 9 inches from any direction to fully aerate the pile, in some areas, the air only has to penetrate 5 inches, a better environment for bacteria and fungi to thrive.
3. A premium quality weed mat will last for many years as compared to the cheap stuff, (found that out the hard way). The advantage of using a good weed mat, it (in my experience) keeps the soil cooler than exposed soil, keeps the pile moist to the edge, and stops the pile from drying out due to wind. As David mentioned, he adds compost worms as soon as the pile cools down, worms will not come to the surface unless it is covered and moist.
4. Using David's design, the pipes stayed where they were meant to and did not cause any problems with loading the reactor as he used metal rods, not 1.5-inch plastic pipes that can move around. The only alterations I would make are full-length pipes, you mentioned David had used pipes glued together and they parted, (although, if glued correctly the pipe would break before the joint would give away), and put covers on top of the pipes to ensure they stay clean.
I will stick with David's design, although 1 will do our farm using David's methods of distribution, I will have 2 when I finish the second one as a backup, we only have 360 acres to work with, It is not like Ian and Dianne Haggerty's farm in western Australia of some 8000 acres under cultivation.
Steve
Finally a person with simple commonsense !!! ... love it !
I am looking forward to the next videos. This very promising. I have 2 original bio reactors going in my barn. This one will have to go outside when it thaws. As a student of Elaine Ingham's soil food web course I am looking at all forms of composting and trialing them. Thanks for the great work.
Diego! This is one my wife might approve! She rejected the black tower without hesitation.
had to watch it again.. love how you take the seriousness out of it. love it.
Thanks Diego, for all of the good engineering advice on the new improved Johnson-Su composter. In looking at my available space and cost of materials, I modified your new design slightly and scaled it down to fit my yard. I used 2x4 fencing (4' tall), a high grade landscape cloth, and sewed it to the top of the fencing with soft rebar tie wire from a coil. All pretty cheap. The diameter of mine is 5' and the inner tube is 1 1/2', with the landscape cloth on the outside of the inner tube, and on the inside of the outer tube. I filled it initially with a bunch of yard and garden material, but it has so much volume that my stuff only filled it half way. So I've been adding to it every time I mow the lawn along with kitchen scraps. Haven't figured out an easy way to cover it and still add material to it, so it has remained open. Watered regularly, and been decomposing for about 4 weeks now. Once I put the cover on, I will probably put two plastic trash cans in the ground (with holes in them) to dump the kitchen scraps and new lawn clippings. Would like to have two bio-reactors (one working and one for filling) but just don't have the space. Thanks again for all the practical knowledge. Bill Church, Retired Army Aviator
I like the improvements, by the time I built my third reactor, I wasn't happy with the amount of work/time in setting them up. Sitting on the ground has to be a major improvement for worms to access the pile. Great job on reengineering.
You could use something easily removable to cover the center when initially filling it up. A metal garbage can lid comes to mind. You could probably leave the lid on until its almost full if it doesn't get filled all at once. I am building one of these!
I will try my hand at building a Compost Contraption with the Diego Twist this year! Once our two feet of snow is gone...
More mass & more air flow.
Two good things.
I'm interested to see side by side testing and documented results.
Yes, I liked it. I love people who think out of the box and start modificate best and make it even better and more functional. 👍
The Diego Decomposer of course!!!!
Most of us who followed the Johnson Su Bioreactor had thoughts about easier ways to make the bioreactor. Your idea is one that I have thought of doing ( pretty similar ). Here in the hot tropics of Asia, we have weaved bamboo baskets that the vegetable farmers transport their goods. After using them for two to three times, they get thrown out. They are free and bio degradable. I think I am going to use those used weaved bamboo basket with chicken wire aeration in the centre for my next compost experiment. Always enjoyed watching your channel.
This improvement is really, really, really good looking
Really, really, really ridiculously good looking! 😆
One of the highest forms of sophistication is simplicity.
My main question would be does it alter the amount of fungi. I think Dr. Johnson said the main purpose of his design was to create a fungi heavy compost to inoculate the soil. Would this new design alter that? Perhaps the increased light from not having the plastic wrap would decrease mycelium growth?
Is there a “how-to-build” one of these coming? I’m all in.
It's just a round piece of concrete wire mesh connected together ! It's not complicated ! .... lol 😆
That's exactly what we did. It didn't work out well here in the Phoenix, AZ, because of the dryness.
so maybe I'll just add ring of mesh into the center of my geobin and call it a day.
Cageposting! Enjoyed the humour and thanks for innovating - I know too many people including myself that wanted to build a Johnson-Su but haven't!
I got it! The Footer Gooder Composter.
I have concitered lining mine with cardboard to help hold the material in place. Also you can get a concrete mesh type material that has a 2"x4" square which would hold material much better.
I think you may run into issues with the cardboard not providing enough breathability at first, and then eventually would degrade and not keep their shape over time as the composting process breaks down the cardboard and crumbles into pieces.
@@goodboysongs yes that makes sense!
Good job! The design will keep evolving. In my dreams: I would like horizontal spaces with dripping system in between these floors to house red worms in a sort of multi layer apartment building. Thank You for your videos!
Perfect name for it
Your an interesting man Diego Footer. welcome to planet earth.
Thumbs up for the Zoolander reference! ;) "I'm pretty sure there's a lot more to life than being really, really, really, ridiculously good looking. And I plan on finding out what that is." ~Derek Zoolander.
Dear Diego, thanks for the video. Since last year I´m using a system that is quite like yours ( I also had some ideas to improve the Johnson-Su reactor). One further detail that I added is two 100mm pipes (laying at the bottom of the pile) connecting the inner column to outer ring. As the pile warms up in its center, the thermal flow will suck fresh air through these pipes. Creating a kind of maintenance free compost air conditioning and aeration system. Might be worth consideration and I´m pretty sure you can find a substitute for the pipes if you don´t want to add plastic to your design. I´ll try overlapping roof tiles this summer. Cheers from Germany.
This was my thought too. Interested to hear how it works for you.
How did it go for you, Phi? Cheers
@@hans6304Moin Hans, to be honest I returned to my usual system. As I have plenty of space and raw material I can give the piles the time they need without any turbo-charger. Cheers
@@philanx9724 good to hear. As long as we keep composting hey! Did you go back to the original Johnson-Su reactor? I live in tropical Java island and been thinking if the JS reactor would perform as well as those of our fellow farmers in the US or Europe.
I am thrilled to see, you took the Inspiration and got rid of the whole plastic. For better microclimate put a bucket of Water in the center Tube. And you can seed on the outside. Mine works well with: potato, mustard, raddish, phacelia, blue physalis and ... what is Kohlrabi in englisch??? Remember: Always keep a living soil on the roots... or so 😂
Diego's Dynamic Digester
I have hot dry summers and think I will try this but I will line the outer tube with cardboard. In fact, I may also cover the inner tube with cardboard. Just a thought…
Looks good man! I've been contemplating using willow woven into the frame with bamboo for the tubes, I like this method much better and may even bring with the metal before finishing my willow frame!
Lol, the zoolander references had me cracking up!!!
I’m really liking this concept. As you talked along my problem seeking brain (it’s an obnoxious yet at times useful trait) kept asking nerdy questions and you answered each one. I’m looking forward to the next video. And I think I’m going to build a few. I just have to engineer a way to put in full wheelbarrows of material, when one mucks out 50lbs of manure and bedding, once does not simply put it in buckets. Hmmm🧐
Please call this reactor the “Blue Steel”
Ha. Perfect. 😂
But then only Diego can pull it off
@@DiegoFooter Does it actually get to temp? I would think that its close proximity to air would make it so it doesnt get hot enough.
My preoccupation is that you wont have enough air flow with just the one donut hole instead of various smaller holes, especially with the bigger diameter. But after a year you will know. Other than that, I like that you don't use plastic, looking forward to see the result
Congratulations, you've developed a leaf mold basket.
A little more thought went into this than just making a random ring, but I get your point.
I really dig this. I've been preparing to build some j sus, as I have a few mountains of mulch from recent power line work in my area. I have a few ideas. Maybe some cinder blocks in the bottom of the outer ring, and a mesh floor if air flow via convection(?) was important. I like how this looks better as well, and could easily be loaded with a tractor, and the whole thing recycled. Let's call it the big footer johnson compost cannon. Maybe not
First time viewer: loved your sense of humour. Also liked the idea.
I like this updated design. It seems simple and efficient. My one improvement/ suggestion would be to swap out the chicken wire for some heavier gauge wire fencing with 1" holes. I don't think that chicken wire will las to long.
New Tagline for the show : “making your composting fantasies and dreams come true” . Love the reduced plastic option that’s always been a sticking point for me👍
I have a urbain cour, I like the new bioreactor look more Natural, I going to use a fence dog and make a rectangle bioreactor with a small fence in the middle for my is going more easy to install at autumn time, I can transfert it in my greenhouse for winter and spring time use the top of compost pile for new seed with a clear plastic to keep it warm and light over
With this idea all of my small corner compost is going to be full not to high
thank you Diego for the new inspiration. The progress for gardening never stop ...with you :)
Sounds like it would work well, I will just have to wait for the math and the worms
I was planning on building a bioreactor. But wanted to do it w a front end loader. So my thought was to use hog panel stacked two high. Lined w hardware cloth or chicken wire. Fill the first one, and then stack the second one after the first one was filled making it easier to both fill and level. Wouldn’t need the t posts w this method since the hog panel wants to hold its shape.
Epic! I want to see it. 😝
@@DiegoFooter I will share when it is complete.
I am planning on loading mine with a tractor as well which makes this design more attractive to me than the original. I will cover up the inner circle and fill the rest with the tractor bucket. I may just go 1 cattle panel high though.
Outstanding job Diego! I'm sold.
Welp, that's what I'm gonna be making
I love it, very innovative. I built a Johnson Su bioreactor last fall and also wondered if there was a way to simplify it.
One question that you or Professor Johnson may be able to answer- Does air penetrate the pile from 12" in each direction or 6" in each direction for a total of 1 foot? If it is 6" then the center of the ring would become anaerobic.
I didn't use landscape fabric on my design either but later realized that if I wanted to add red wigglers there would be no way to contain them. Setting it on the ground would allow existing earthworms to access the pile but I thought I read that they were not as desirable for a compost pile.
Great video! All of your videos are well made and thought provoking. Thank you for all of your hard work.
Different worms produce different kinds of beneficial compounds that they inoculate the soil with. I think the wigglers breed and work the fastest.
@@inigomontoya8943, that is an excellent point. I think that diversity is so valuable. I decided to leave the landscape fabric off because of the rainfall and cooler temperatures here in Maine. For my next pile, I think I will cover it and add irrigation so I could wrap it with fabric and add worms, closer to what David Johnson would recommend. I have noticed a lot of native earthworm activity under compost I have already spread so I think it is very beneficial to the biology either way.
@@matthewturner2489 I’m sure once you put that compost down the native worms are adding to it later anyway so win-win
Diego in a tie! Very dapper my man. :)
This is just what I needed! Thanks for another great video👍
I love the new bioreactor. The only thing I was thinking about the landscape fabric is it blocks the sun and we know how much life in the soil hates the sun.
Agree. A roof or a tree might help.
I like the previously mentioned idea to use the wire as a trellis and create a living exterior with a climbing crop. In a dry climate like I'm in, the pile would absolutely have to be insulated from evaporation somehow. Like Dr Johnson, I live in New Mexico.
Waaaaay ahead of you Diego! Redesigned it already!
The 3.0 model...is completely invisible, has NO metal, and um....well...it’s just a pile on the ground. 😂
Name suggestion:
Diego's Doughnut.
Compost Doughnut.
The Homer Simpson Donut Digester. I guess you could just call it "Mmmmm Donut."
Spot on!
Nice job on the improvements
Do you plan to have the biology analysed after one year?
The one I’m making I’m thinking 5’ d with a 1’ d center. Also a pipe on bottom to allow air as I will cover top with tarp to preserve moisture.
Great design. Great improvements
air is the essence of composting. composting is the essence of soil.
Does the landscape fabric hold more moisture? Is that going to be a problem?
Loved the new visual... The BR is cool as well. I Vote for DF Bio R
Another great video ! Keep them coming, l watch them all.
I have to admit, after watching this video, I am disappointed that I have recently purchased a large roll of landscape fabric to build several Johnson Su Bioreactors. There doesn't seem to be any reason that your revised version is not superior. Especially with efficiency and zero plastic being used. In addition, I appreciate the increased volume with the Diego reactor. Have you shared the Diego reactor with David Johnson? I am curious to what his thoughts would be. Thank you for sharing Diego.
Shading and keeping light as far away from the woodchips as possible is very important
Been waiting for this. Frappuccino ready 🍿
So the wood chips are literally having a "gas fight" lol
Great content!!
Call it "the deign that guy's been using for 25 years that works great!"
It'll be fun to see your numbers.
Great work!
While the max distance from air is 12 inches it seems the Johnson-Su Bioreactor is less than, so is does this reactor perform as well? I also liked the idea that the Johnson-Su Bioreactor is on a pallet so it could be moved into a building to keep it from freezing. I also wonder how you access the compost for removal. As you need to fill the reactor in a short period it seems that it would be easier to use the Johnson-Su design and if you need more volume you simply build a second reactor. I have not used the Johnson-Su Bioreactor so this is not criticism, just a list of concerns.
I believe that in drier climates it will dry out too much. The landscape fabric would be much better at retaining moisture while still enabling some air flow. I applaud the attempt to get rid of plastic
I agree that filling the bioreactor with the tubes in place is a pain. In Dec I made 1 using pallets for the enclosure instead of wire. (video on my channel if interested) I'm intrigued by your design and already thinking about how I could adapt this for my use. The single larger center space would make filling it much easier and would scale better. I will definitely watch the nerdy version.
Doode awezome.... Thankx
Well done!
Brilliant! Blessings Abound
It could double as a cucumber or squash vine trellis, the shade may keep it from drying out a bit.
Cool. Now I'll have to build one. Call it the Diego Device or maybe the Diego Footer Device. Diego Compost Cage. Look forward to the next videos. Thank you
Down side I see is the thin chicken wire might rust within a season. Thicker stucco wire would be better & paint it for longevity. Also putting an air tube base would help get air into the compost & allow for a convection effect to aerate the pile.
I am planning on making a compost pile with wooden pallets with air tubes going from the exterior to the center. I am going to surround the pallets with small square bales to insulate the pile then collect the heat.
Awesome idea! I was actually thinking the same thing as you but I was thinking of making multiple smaller "wire pipes" as opposed to the big one in the center as your design. I had also thought about using sticks and rope to hold the pile together from the outer part. But overall, I am loving your new design, Diego! I am, for sure, going to try this! The main thing I wonder about the outside wire, is whether or not the pile will hold moisture as well as the fabric does. Overall, though, 2 thumbs up... loving your idea!
How about a hockey rink shape? I've got so much material to compost, that upscaling the bioreactor size would be a great solution for me. Thank you Diego for all the content you share especially In Search of Soil.
Good idea. Tougher to build though in that shape. Dimensions would stay intact.
D-I-EGO! Are you a veteran? You exude a military aura
No, but thanks.
I have thought of a design like this ever since you originally posted the bio reactor . I am going to try it with 4 or 5 rings all 12 inches apart. Nothing in the center, fill a ring, nothing, fill a ring. Etc.
Very Cool Design Diego! We finally started composting last year when we bought our new house! We've been using this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010V673AC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it has worked great! Especially the Setup/Teardown... They have these awesome "keys" that fit into it to lock it into whatever diameter you want.
The big downside that I am concerned about, along with many others, is that it is made of plastic. It seems to be a really sturdy and stable plastic, but still... I don't like not knowing if it's leeching into our compost or not and at what level.
Anyways, I am really loving the design you came up with! Can't wait to set one up in our yard next to our plastic one!
Question: have you looked at the treatment on the metal for the chicken wire? I just quickly googled and saw that lead could be prevalent in it... Not sure the legitimacy of this but here was a website I found of someone who did their own testing: tamararubin.com/2018/04/chicken-wire-mesh-hardware-cloth-2201-ppm-lead-cadmium/
This is part of my problem with the growing industry right now... The choices are like potentially toxic, or toxic from what it seems for most DIY stuff. Even when I build grow systems with plastic, I don't really care for it...
Anyways, wanted to share that to see if we can maybe do any testing to see if there is lead or any other potentially toxic heavy metals.
If we can help in any way, give us a shout!
Love what you're doing!
Loving it! After building a couple of JSus Ive been thinking about an easier way. Diego's Doughnut or Double D composter! Keep up the good work
Double D! YES!
Can we get an update on this system?
I compost really good, but it hurts too much and takes too long, this looks better bro
Hey brah this is great please start a reactor with chicken wire only no center call it. Control experiment to compare it to other designs 15 years ago I filled up a wire cylinder with oak leaves and about 10 to twelve month there was leaf mold through out the pile no center pipe it was 4 feet across wide
I think I'm going to save up and buy the materials to make that
My only question is about air flow at the bottom. Does it matter if there’s X times the volume of air if it isn’t moving?
I would say since airflow in such that more diameters much easier flow (non linear) , the air will convect more. Thus flow
Whats the outside diameter? I think this would be a little more robust using cattle panels with chicken wire. Probably a lot more durable as well. Really great work!
6ft
LOL with the Zoolander reference.
Your new look bioreactor must be named "Magnum".
I hi Diego I made to trash cans compost bins with 4 inches poipe in middle looking forward to my first compost Charles dublin
Love it. And, unless my math is wrong, yours holds over 2x as much. 8(pi)h cubic feet vs 4(ph)h cubic feet (minus the volume of the tubes).
It looks:
1. easier to build
2. bigger
3. more elegant
4. like worms will figure it out for themselves.
Initial concerns:
1. sufficient airflow at lower interior?
2. how much of a crust will form around the outside due to extra dehydration/sunlight exposure?
3. will it heat up as much during the thermogenic phase? Enough to kill weed seeds? Enough to be certified?
4. How does the inner ring keep its shape as the material starts to press in on it? Do you use t-posts on the interior, too?
Awesome!
Name Game... would be nice to somehow give a nod to Drs. Johnson and Su for their innovative work and getting us all moving in a better direction... JSF Bioreactor?
Definitely keep the name.
I think your idea is very interesting and want to see how it works - experimental results are the only thing that counts.
6:50 - *here* , *you* *equate* *the* *volume* *of* *the* *air* *with* *air* *circulation* , saying that the small pipes are 3 cubic feet while the larger cylinder is 18 cubic feet, but *isn't* *the* *air* *circulation* *actually* *more* *related* *to* *surface* *area* ... assuming that air is circulating freely, which it clearly can do in your design and probably the tube design as well.
In your design you have a 2 foot cylinder with a circumference ( using circumference because no need to multiply by the differential of height ) of ( 2 x pi x radius ) or 2 x 3.1415 x 1' or *6.3* *feet* .
With the pipe system you have a circumference PER PIPE, assuming a 4 inch pipe, of 2 x 3.1415 x 1/6 or *1.0* *foot* *per* *pipe* .
With 6 pipes you have 6 feet of surface area. ( but you can also add pipes, right? )
Your system has 5% more surface area compared to a tube system with 6 tubes.
This is assuming that the outer circumference is the same. BUT, the tube system can add more tubes, but you are fixed in your 2' centered column, and the area is actually a drawback because the space in the middle is unused. The "volume" argument seems to work against you because the variable that allows airflow is surface area, not volume.
The smaller the "tube" the less area inside the reactor is unused on the inside where the compost is, up to the point where the tube is small enough that it impedes airflow.
It's a good point. In the next video I do list the surface area comparisons. I was more looking at more air from a total volume standpoint - the pile is less dense.
@@DiegoFooter
Thanks. Cool work you are doing, can't wait to see more.
Oh, and also when I saw the pictures of your actual build I realized that your columnar design is much larger than the "tubular" design.