I learn a lot from TH-cam but I'm also a super critical editor xD I try to keep is as direct as possible without skipping steps I would want to see, glad this helped!
Mineral oil does work, my favorite is Camilla Oil and Olive oil but don't use vegetable oil as it oxidizes and turns brown and gummy. As for how often it depends on a lot of factors and how you store it. Check how the oil maintains before each use or once a week for a month (if seldom used) to see if you applied too much, to little, or if any rust has appeared
I like the way you sharpened the knife very fluid strokes I want to attempt to sharpen something but I'm scared I'm going to scratch it up is there any advice you can give to me.
First of all, all damage done by a stone can be fixed by a stone :) Second of all the exact angle early in isn't as important as keeping that angle consistent- if you have to cheat by putting shims along the Flat of the blade to act as a guide that can help but it's better just to practice, next GET A RELIABLE STONE, I posted a low cost stone I've used for years, you only use a harbor freight stone for two reasons- to grind an edge to reprofile (not to sharpen) and also as a way to true or get nicks out of your good stone. Use light and thicker paper to find flaws in your edge. If you can see glints on the edge it's not sharp there. For problem areas I do a few strokes EACH SIDE focusing about 3" overall best the problem, then hone a few strokes along the whole blade EACH SIDE, it's important whatever you do to one side- angle and stroke, you do to the other
@@vanguardsmithing7501 thanks for the advice I was asking because many years ago I had a pocket knife and decided to sharpen it I scratched it up real bad and just wanted to throw it away I didn't use a wet stone I think i used a sharpening stone and that discouraged me from ever trying to sharpen a knife ever again but thanks for the advice.
@@Mr.dosequis if you are scratching the face you need to show down and maintain your angle, or helps me to also focus on one part of the blade with your eye, and follow it up or down the edge, making sure you make solid contract all the way asking the blade, you aren't trying to sharpen the whole edge are once, but as you pull or push draw the edge along the stone and sharpen a bit of the edge at a time
@Vanguard Smithing Thanks for the video, very informative. Is it necessary to intentionally force a patina on a carbon steel kitchen knife? I've seen many people say this is an absolute requirement to help guard against rust. Thanks
I'm glad you liked the video! Force a patina? I haven't needed to myself, though I'm religious about extra oil before I cut acidic foods and about cleaning, drying, and oiling after every use. The patina plays a big part in rust prevention but isn't a requirement if you have good habits. That being said if you did force patina your blade it could only help. Both rust and patina are forms of oxidation but a patina forms magnetite and rust forms iron oxide. I personally like to see the blade patina slowly over use but forcing one will help with rust prevention. My biggest piece of advice in either case of whether to force it, let it happen naturally, or how much to oil in general is to see what works for you and your habits. If you see your maintenance isn't enough? Add more oil, dry more thoroughly, or force a patina to help if you are having problems. I may have said it in the video, but the number one way to tell between rust and patina is you are worried is a patina cannot be felt, it's as smooth as the blade- rust always has a texture or grit you can feel. Hope this helps! :D
Hey, I bought the stuff you mentioned and recommended. But I'm unsure of how to use some things.. Do I always use the oil, like after every wash? And do I leave it on the knife or should I wipe it with a towel? Should I get 2000grit sandpaper, polishing cloth, or honing rod? Or are they unnecessary? I've already got a "Sabitorikun"( like a rust eraser). I've heard some knives, specially Japanese, have a different edge ratio, like 60/40, do I need to sharpen accordingly? Like sharpen the steeper/bigger side more ? Sorry for the numerous questions.. I just got a Japanese damascus santoku and I've heard damascus steel requires alot of care compared to the cheap stainless steel I'm used to.
Oil after every wash immediately. You need to wash with soap and water and immediately dry it with a towel and apply a layer of oil. You can spread the oil with an applicator, towel, or you finger but you are spreading it, not wiping it off. Check the blade in your environment to see if you are oiling it enough or not, as in if it's dry when you go to use it or it starts to rust. In that case use more oil and oil more often if it sits a long time. I just use 2000g to polish out rust but discoloration you can't feel a grit to is healthy oxide and should be left as it will prevent rust. As far as edge angle I go by feel and if you are doing it wrong or at a different angle that will eventually be the new angle, maintaining the angle and strokes per side even is important. A honing rod is very useful to use between sharpening as sometimes the edge just needs to be straightened and it's quick to use and get to cooking. Hope this helps!
@@vanguardsmithing7501 thanks alot, I couldn't, or better say understand well, from checking the Internet. You made everything quite clear. Glad I found you, thanks again.
My biggest joy in the world is converting my researching, trial and error, tests, failures, and wins into time saved for others xD I know how hard it is to find niche specific questions and want to help others when I can :D
i just got some carbon steel knives and i have a care question! can i dry my knives by passing them over the flame of my gas stove a few times, or will that damage them? my knives are cleavers with a bit of texture on the sides so im not always sure i can wipe away all the moisture by hand. i would like to know because i have a cast iron pan (not quite the same thing as a knife lol) and its recommended to dry on a heated stovetop to prevent rust. does this method also work for carbon steel knives?
I wouldn't recommend doing that as its not necessary and can risk damaging the blade edge. The method I use which works everytime without worry or concern over the extra moisture is to clean the blade with soap and water, gently and carefully wipe the blade with a towel but as long as you get the drops the leftover moisture is taken care of in the next step, apply the oil you use (I recommend camilla oil but olive oil works as well, do not use vegetable oil as it leaves brown stain residue) either with an applicator or paper towel, you can apply the oil to the towel or blade first, either way rub the oil evenly across the blade, that thin layer of oil will take any rust risk from washing away. I use that method with the flame on my cast iron as well, but your blade can lose its harness if you aren't careful, also the handle material can be damaged by trying to dry over the flame. An important thing to remember about rust is it's slow and predictable unless it's left in a moisture rich environment. If you do apply oil and it's not enough, checking on it every day, the every other week, once you find the method that keeps your blade oiled and happy. You just have to re oil after each use.
@@vanguardsmithing7501 i definitely do not want to risk damaging the blade or losing hardness, thank you for the advice! the info about what oils can be used is also helpful to me, i didn't know about the vegetable oil residue. i'll use olive oil on my knives from now on!
@@Floshbit glad to help! :D If you want to make it quick and easy the oil applicator in the link I'd swear by, you dry the blade after washing and just rub the applicator on the blade (you only need to fill it with oil once every few months) and it puts the perfect amount on. It takes 5-8 seconds versus 20-30 with getting out an oil bottle and rag then tossing the rag.
Camilla oil is food safe yes, and leave the oil on the blade to keep it protected from the moisture of the food. Camilla is also oderless and almost tasteless (I've sprayed some in my mouth it's like a vague watery butter?) But it won't impart any flavor into your food
It depends on how deep the rust has pitted, if you can feel it is rust, if it's just discolored is a healthy oxide. For light rust go to your local auto place like auto zone and get 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper. Get the paper wet with water or oil and with a sanding block, powdered sander, or carefuly by hand polish out the rust using the lower grits first then the higher grits. It the rust is deeper you will have to use lower more aggressive grits.
Hi! I’m a new knife owner. I just bought a mora carbon steel knife and bought some mineral oil. So basically right before I store it just rub a little oil all over the blade and then store it? So don’t wipe it all over and dry the oil off correct?
I use Camilla Oil, but Food grade mineral oil, and olive oil work as well- I fully wash my blade with soap and water after use, then immediately dry with a towel, apply a good amount of oil and lightly wipe the blade if you are using a napkin but make sure to get full coverage, if you are using it daily I recommend the oil applicator nub I use will add link in the video description. It takes the added oil then wipe to just wipe and done. I would say re oil it every 3 weeks or so if you aren't using it. But if it's in a sheath I recommend checking it every other day to see if it's drying out. Once you are confident it's staying oiled you can relax. When using it next time you don't need to re apply oil unless you are cutting acidic foods- which can aggressively patina the blade. Like lemons. In which case I just apply, do my cooking prep, then clean the blade and re oil. Hope this helps! I have some more tips etc but let me know if you need any more information
As long as you oil it every now and then, and don't live in a humid area you shouldn't need to every time no- especially if it has a sheath. But if you go to use it and it's bone dry or has see any signs of rust make sure to give it a little :)
@@vanguardsmithing7501 Thank you for the detailed reply! I didn’t want to mess up my knife by leaving the mineral oil on it. But based on what you’re saying. Just rub a small around all on the blade and then just let it air dry. Thank you :-) just so nervous as I didn’t want to screw up such a nice knife :)-
Never. Never use a sharpening jig. Use a stone or honing rod to maintain the edge-you'd be surprised on how much difference a honing rod makes. Oil with a light coat of olive oil, mineral oil, or camilla oil lightly with a rag. Watch how long the oil lasts on the blade however you store it whether in a sheath or not. The first few weeks check it regularly to see how the oil is maintaining and if any moisture is causing rust, if so oil more regularly. Any dis coloration you can see but not feel is a healthy oxide patina. Any form of rust will have a different texture and you can scrub it off with your stone or wet sanding with 800-2000 (any in that range) grit sandpaper, found locally at auto stores. That should cover most of it, let me know if it helps!
If you're not going to eat with it I would recommend EEZOX or Fluid Film for an outdoor knife. I've used EEZOX since 1988, no I do not sell it. Also the Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker is a great honing and sharpening set up. Its not a jig, and not powered, but it is easy to use. I carry the DMT Trifolds for field maintenance and a round white ceramic pocket rod, since the DMT are diamond, lightweight and the rat tailed ones can pretty much sharpen anything, including the Kbar or Spyderco serration pattern. You can get shaving sharp edges with these tools.
Sorry! This was a custom piece made for my grandmother in law by a friend-but was too heavy for them to use nowadays, but it's amazing and I love it xD I would direct you to who made it if I knew but sadly I don't
Bacteria can be present in oil but it cannot multiply in oil without other media- foods, and water- and the oil keeps prevent bacteria from finding a surface to grow upon. With food and bacteria it isn't whether is does or doesn't have bacteria- it's how much it is allowed to multiply and it's poison the food with its waste or with itself. So as long as you are using food grade oil it's safe. As for bugs I haven't had any problems with bugs being attracted to clean oil. The only real culprit to look out for is the type of oil you use. Cammilla oil works best, but so does virgin olive oil, but peanut oil and other vegetable oils can oxidize quicker. And while not dangerous it becomes dark, sticky, and unappealing. Camilla and olive oil don't dry out, congeal, or turn brown. Hope this helps answer your question! :D
Hello, total noob here, what angle are you sharpening at? I’ve seen videos that say to do it at about 15º, but your angle seems to be a lot more steep, around the 30º mark. Am i seeing this correctly? Thank you
The angle I grind at for me is more intuitive vs a set angle, specific angles and getting them perfect will help but often I sharpen at the steepest angle that I can feel the blade is contacting the stone evenly and smoothly, more than the perfect angle what's important (especially if you can't tell the angle exactly) is to be consistent with the angle, in both number of strokes per side being even and matching in angle. The angle you sharpen at will effect how well it cuts and how long the edge lasts but if it works it works. Disclaimer that I'm an artisan blacksmith and have been on forged in fire xD but I'm not an expert. Just an artist who relies on friends, blogs, research, and thousands of hours of trial and error lol A good stone is key, I wasted 40 hours literally trying to get a razor edge on a harbor freight wet stone, and never getting one. What I didn't know was my technique became flawless over those hours- But the stone was trash xD first attempt on a better stone I had a perfect razor. All the hours on the bad stone I got the muscle memory for the angle, on what I now call a grinding stone and use to work small chips out of the edge, but not sharpen xD hope this helped! Sorry if the response was too long xD
With either hand it's only important and the hand on the handle controls the angle but applies no pressure, and the hand on the face of the blade applies a few pounds of pressure. It's important to be able to maintain a consistent angle and pressure, with an equal amount of strokes per side
Yes! Olive oil is a great blade oil but if left for months can leave a sticky residue, but if it's used, cleaned and reapplied regularly it's a great oil, just don't use vegetable oil as that oxidizes and turns dark brown quickly
Just got my first carbon steel knife, thanks for a quick and to the point video on care.
I learn a lot from TH-cam but I'm also a super critical editor xD I try to keep is as direct as possible without skipping steps I would want to see, glad this helped!
I am about to start using a carbon steel knife for my daily use knife in the kitchen, this video really help me. Thanks!
Just bought my first carbon steel knife yesterday but forgot to ask how to care for it! X) thank you for this video! Quick and simple!
That's what I wanted :D There's a lot to know and I wanted to get a short video together of the essentials :) enjoy your new blade! :D
Appreciate the video man
Very good straight to the point video.
Thanks for the information
Your welcome! :D
Nice video
Thank you so much bro. Just got an old hickory
Your welcome! :D
Great content here, i just got my carbon steel just one side this will be helpful !!!
Great to hear! :D just remember dis coloration is normal, only deep brown rust which you can feel as a different texture is harmful to the steel
Is mineral oil also good to use on your carbon steel knife?
Mineral oil does work, my favorite is Camilla Oil and Olive oil but don't use vegetable oil as it oxidizes and turns brown and gummy. As for how often it depends on a lot of factors and how you store it. Check how the oil maintains before each use or once a week for a month (if seldom used) to see if you applied too much, to little, or if any rust has appeared
Ah man. That's hot right there! Good job man keep it up!
Thank you :D Making this knife took around 8 hours, and the video took 8.5 hours xD a lot of work haha
I like the way you sharpened the knife very fluid strokes I want to attempt to sharpen something but I'm scared I'm going to scratch it up is there any advice you can give to me.
First of all, all damage done by a stone can be fixed by a stone :) Second of all the exact angle early in isn't as important as keeping that angle consistent- if you have to cheat by putting shims along the Flat of the blade to act as a guide that can help but it's better just to practice, next GET A RELIABLE STONE, I posted a low cost stone I've used for years, you only use a harbor freight stone for two reasons- to grind an edge to reprofile (not to sharpen) and also as a way to true or get nicks out of your good stone. Use light and thicker paper to find flaws in your edge. If you can see glints on the edge it's not sharp there. For problem areas I do a few strokes EACH SIDE focusing about 3" overall best the problem, then hone a few strokes along the whole blade EACH SIDE, it's important whatever you do to one side- angle and stroke, you do to the other
@@vanguardsmithing7501 thanks for the advice I was asking because many years ago I had a pocket knife and decided to sharpen it I scratched it up real bad and just wanted to throw it away I didn't use a wet stone I think i used a sharpening stone and that discouraged me from ever trying to sharpen a knife ever again but thanks for the advice.
@@Mr.dosequis if you are scratching the face you need to show down and maintain your angle, or helps me to also focus on one part of the blade with your eye, and follow it up or down the edge, making sure you make solid contract all the way asking the blade, you aren't trying to sharpen the whole edge are once, but as you pull or push draw the edge along the stone and sharpen a bit of the edge at a time
@Vanguard Smithing Thanks for the video, very informative. Is it necessary to intentionally force a patina on a carbon steel kitchen knife? I've seen many people say this is an absolute requirement to help guard against rust. Thanks
I'm glad you liked the video! Force a patina? I haven't needed to myself, though I'm religious about extra oil before I cut acidic foods and about cleaning, drying, and oiling after every use. The patina plays a big part in rust prevention but isn't a requirement if you have good habits. That being said if you did force patina your blade it could only help. Both rust and patina are forms of oxidation but a patina forms magnetite and rust forms iron oxide. I personally like to see the blade patina slowly over use but forcing one will help with rust prevention. My biggest piece of advice in either case of whether to force it, let it happen naturally, or how much to oil in general is to see what works for you and your habits. If you see your maintenance isn't enough? Add more oil, dry more thoroughly, or force a patina to help if you are having problems. I may have said it in the video, but the number one way to tell between rust and patina is you are worried is a patina cannot be felt, it's as smooth as the blade- rust always has a texture or grit you can feel. Hope this helps! :D
Excellent. Thank you.
Your welcome :D
Hey, I bought the stuff you mentioned and recommended. But I'm unsure of how to use some things..
Do I always use the oil, like after every wash? And do I leave it on the knife or should I wipe it with a towel?
Should I get 2000grit sandpaper, polishing cloth, or honing rod? Or are they unnecessary? I've already got a "Sabitorikun"( like a rust eraser).
I've heard some knives, specially Japanese, have a different edge ratio, like 60/40, do I need to sharpen accordingly? Like sharpen the steeper/bigger side more ?
Sorry for the numerous questions.. I just got a Japanese damascus santoku and I've heard damascus steel requires alot of care compared to the cheap stainless steel I'm used to.
Oil after every wash immediately. You need to wash with soap and water and immediately dry it with a towel and apply a layer of oil. You can spread the oil with an applicator, towel, or you finger but you are spreading it, not wiping it off. Check the blade in your environment to see if you are oiling it enough or not, as in if it's dry when you go to use it or it starts to rust. In that case use more oil and oil more often if it sits a long time. I just use 2000g to polish out rust but discoloration you can't feel a grit to is healthy oxide and should be left as it will prevent rust.
As far as edge angle I go by feel and if you are doing it wrong or at a different angle that will eventually be the new angle, maintaining the angle and strokes per side even is important.
A honing rod is very useful to use between sharpening as sometimes the edge just needs to be straightened and it's quick to use and get to cooking.
Hope this helps!
@@vanguardsmithing7501 thanks alot, I couldn't, or better say understand well, from checking the Internet. You made everything quite clear.
Glad I found you, thanks again.
My biggest joy in the world is converting my researching, trial and error, tests, failures, and wins into time saved for others xD I know how hard it is to find niche specific questions and want to help others when I can :D
i just got some carbon steel knives and i have a care question! can i dry my knives by passing them over the flame of my gas stove a few times, or will that damage them? my knives are cleavers with a bit of texture on the sides so im not always sure i can wipe away all the moisture by hand. i would like to know because i have a cast iron pan (not quite the same thing as a knife lol) and its recommended to dry on a heated stovetop to prevent rust. does this method also work for carbon steel knives?
I wouldn't recommend doing that as its not necessary and can risk damaging the blade edge. The method I use which works everytime without worry or concern over the extra moisture is to clean the blade with soap and water, gently and carefully wipe the blade with a towel but as long as you get the drops the leftover moisture is taken care of in the next step, apply the oil you use (I recommend camilla oil but olive oil works as well, do not use vegetable oil as it leaves brown stain residue) either with an applicator or paper towel, you can apply the oil to the towel or blade first, either way rub the oil evenly across the blade, that thin layer of oil will take any rust risk from washing away. I use that method with the flame on my cast iron as well, but your blade can lose its harness if you aren't careful, also the handle material can be damaged by trying to dry over the flame. An important thing to remember about rust is it's slow and predictable unless it's left in a moisture rich environment. If you do apply oil and it's not enough, checking on it every day, the every other week, once you find the method that keeps your blade oiled and happy. You just have to re oil after each use.
@@vanguardsmithing7501 i definitely do not want to risk damaging the blade or losing hardness, thank you for the advice! the info about what oils can be used is also helpful to me, i didn't know about the vegetable oil residue. i'll use olive oil on my knives from now on!
@@Floshbit glad to help! :D If you want to make it quick and easy the oil applicator in the link I'd swear by, you dry the blade after washing and just rub the applicator on the blade (you only need to fill it with oil once every few months) and it puts the perfect amount on. It takes 5-8 seconds versus 20-30 with getting out an oil bottle and rag then tossing the rag.
I have the same oil, is it food safe?
Should I wash or wipe the oil from the knife before I use it to cut food?
Camilla oil is food safe yes, and leave the oil on the blade to keep it protected from the moisture of the food. Camilla is also oderless and almost tasteless (I've sprayed some in my mouth it's like a vague watery butter?) But it won't impart any flavor into your food
@@vanguardsmithing7501 thank you sir
How do you remove rust because Xmas gift didn't come with instructions.
It depends on how deep the rust has pitted, if you can feel it is rust, if it's just discolored is a healthy oxide. For light rust go to your local auto place like auto zone and get 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper. Get the paper wet with water or oil and with a sanding block, powdered sander, or carefuly by hand polish out the rust using the lower grits first then the higher grits. It the rust is deeper you will have to use lower more aggressive grits.
Hi! I’m a new knife owner. I just bought a mora carbon steel knife and bought some mineral oil. So basically right before I store it just rub a little oil all over the blade and then store it? So don’t wipe it all over and dry the oil off correct?
I use Camilla Oil, but Food grade mineral oil, and olive oil work as well- I fully wash my blade with soap and water after use, then immediately dry with a towel, apply a good amount of oil and lightly wipe the blade if you are using a napkin but make sure to get full coverage, if you are using it daily I recommend the oil applicator nub I use will add link in the video description. It takes the added oil then wipe to just wipe and done. I would say re oil it every 3 weeks or so if you aren't using it. But if it's in a sheath I recommend checking it every other day to see if it's drying out. Once you are confident it's staying oiled you can relax. When using it next time you don't need to re apply oil unless you are cutting acidic foods- which can aggressively patina the blade. Like lemons. In which case I just apply, do my cooking prep, then clean the blade and re oil. Hope this helps! I have some more tips etc but let me know if you need any more information
@@vanguardsmithing7501 So if I’m whittling wood with my knife, I don’t need to re oil it afterwards if I oiled it recently? Is that correct?
As long as you oil it every now and then, and don't live in a humid area you shouldn't need to every time no- especially if it has a sheath. But if you go to use it and it's bone dry or has see any signs of rust make sure to give it a little :)
@@vanguardsmithing7501 I understand, thank you very much, sir!
@@vanguardsmithing7501 Thank you for the detailed reply! I didn’t want to mess up my knife by leaving the mineral oil on it. But based on what you’re saying. Just rub a small around all on the blade and then just let it air dry. Thank you :-) just so nervous as I didn’t want to screw up such a nice knife :)-
Hey I’m new to this how should I maintain my 1095 steel blade it’s a Kabar 2211 big brother
Never. Never use a sharpening jig. Use a stone or honing rod to maintain the edge-you'd be surprised on how much difference a honing rod makes. Oil with a light coat of olive oil, mineral oil, or camilla oil lightly with a rag. Watch how long the oil lasts on the blade however you store it whether in a sheath or not. The first few weeks check it regularly to see how the oil is maintaining and if any moisture is causing rust, if so oil more regularly. Any dis coloration you can see but not feel is a healthy oxide patina. Any form of rust will have a different texture and you can scrub it off with your stone or wet sanding with 800-2000 (any in that range) grit sandpaper, found locally at auto stores. That should cover most of it, let me know if it helps!
@@vanguardsmithing7501 thanks so much and where would I get a good stone or rod
In the description I have the links to quality, but inexpensive stones and rods, both which I personally use, and recommend- and I'm not sponsered lol
@@vanguardsmithing7501 alright thank you so much
If you're not going to eat with it I would recommend EEZOX or Fluid Film for an outdoor knife. I've used EEZOX since 1988, no I do not sell it.
Also the Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker is a great honing and sharpening set up. Its not a jig, and not powered, but it is easy to use.
I carry the DMT Trifolds for field maintenance and a round white ceramic pocket rod, since the DMT are diamond, lightweight and the rat tailed ones can pretty much sharpen anything, including the Kbar or Spyderco serration pattern. You can get shaving sharp edges with these tools.
Love the cutting board! Is it also available somewhere?
Sorry! This was a custom piece made for my grandmother in law by a friend-but was too heavy for them to use nowadays, but it's amazing and I love it xD I would direct you to who made it if I knew but sadly I don't
Doesn’t the oil draw in bacteria or bugs?
Bacteria can be present in oil but it cannot multiply in oil without other media- foods, and water- and the oil keeps prevent bacteria from finding a surface to grow upon. With food and bacteria it isn't whether is does or doesn't have bacteria- it's how much it is allowed to multiply and it's poison the food with its waste or with itself. So as long as you are using food grade oil it's safe. As for bugs I haven't had any problems with bugs being attracted to clean oil. The only real culprit to look out for is the type of oil you use. Cammilla oil works best, but so does virgin olive oil, but peanut oil and other vegetable oils can oxidize quicker. And while not dangerous it becomes dark, sticky, and unappealing. Camilla and olive oil don't dry out, congeal, or turn brown. Hope this helps answer your question! :D
Hello, total noob here, what angle are you sharpening at? I’ve seen videos that say to do it at about 15º, but your angle seems to be a lot more steep, around the 30º mark. Am i seeing this correctly? Thank you
The angle I grind at for me is more intuitive vs a set angle, specific angles and getting them perfect will help but often I sharpen at the steepest angle that I can feel the blade is contacting the stone evenly and smoothly, more than the perfect angle what's important (especially if you can't tell the angle exactly) is to be consistent with the angle, in both number of strokes per side being even and matching in angle. The angle you sharpen at will effect how well it cuts and how long the edge lasts but if it works it works. Disclaimer that I'm an artisan blacksmith and have been on forged in fire xD but I'm not an expert. Just an artist who relies on friends, blogs, research, and thousands of hours of trial and error lol A good stone is key, I wasted 40 hours literally trying to get a razor edge on a harbor freight wet stone, and never getting one. What I didn't know was my technique became flawless over those hours- But the stone was trash xD first attempt on a better stone I had a perfect razor. All the hours on the bad stone I got the muscle memory for the angle, on what I now call a grinding stone and use to work small chips out of the edge, but not sharpen xD hope this helped! Sorry if the response was too long xD
@@vanguardsmithing7501 thank you so much for replying! I will do as you say, really enjoy your videos!
I'm lost when you changed your hand during sharpen backside.
With either hand it's only important and the hand on the handle controls the angle but applies no pressure, and the hand on the face of the blade applies a few pounds of pressure. It's important to be able to maintain a consistent angle and pressure, with an equal amount of strokes per side
@@vanguardsmithing7501 Thank you for the explaination, greate video, good job.
Get a stone fixer for your 6000 grit side
Youre hardly doing anything with all that black stuff on there
I was looking into the best option but just got a piece of marble and some 600 grit sand paper, she's pretty now :)
Can you use olive oil? Lol
Yes! Olive oil is a great blade oil but if left for months can leave a sticky residue, but if it's used, cleaned and reapplied regularly it's a great oil, just don't use vegetable oil as that oxidizes and turns dark brown quickly