I have an 18’ bumper pull I need to rewire. Saw the junction box on line but still didn’t like having to splice wires at the running. Just this morning it dawned on me to use more than one junction box. That soured me to checkout TH-cam for trailer wiring again. To my surprise your video was the 2nd video that popped up. The land scraping connectors is genius! This is exactly how I’m going to wire up my trailer! Thanks for post this! I picked up my trailer cheap, all the floor boards have been removed due to rot, I’m going to rewire then install new boards. Will also get new breakaway system and I’ll also be adding the light bar and wheel lights which is also a great idea!
I've been wiring trailers my way professionally for years and have been using junction box's for the past few years with separate wire to each light and I'll be adding these splices to my method now. I see never had any come back for my work but dang
I love the way you did these lights. When I do something I want to do it so it last and this will last. I hate trailer wiring troubles. Great video thank you. God Bless
Great video. I have a 40ft 5th wheel project to fully wire and your video is going to be my step by step now. It's exactly how I'd like to do mine, I was just wasn't sure how yet. Thanks.
Beautiful work - and love the creative use of the t-connectors! For your next trailer, you might want to consider not soldering connections that are crimped, as this can - surprisingly! - make the electrical path weaker. (Not the actual crimped and soldered connection, which is pretty much solid - but it can make the wire leading into the crimped/soldered connection more prone to breaking due to recurring vibrations.)
Amazing buddy. One extra tip. If you wanted to overkill and were worried about certain areas like on those T’s where the skinny wire comes in and you said you’ll face it upwards in case water gets in, after you make the connection, fill the void with a dolup of diaelectric grease. Anywhere where you worry a little bit of water may enter, give it a dab of grease and you’re good for years
3M Scotchkote FD is a coating that is designed for underground electrical splices . It is expensive but is really worth it . Dap 8889 is an acrylic bath and tub caulk . It works well to secure and weatherproof the pigtail wires to the terminal body . Excellent Video !
I actually have some of the scotchkote in my electrical supplies and use it from time to time. Great stuff. Only reason I did not use it here was once you put that stuff on it’s a pain to get off if I were to add anything or if I wanted to change somthing up. Like you said it is expensive too. Great product though for sure.
Could you do or tell me specifically how you powered up the relay and switch basically, where did you get your power for your line and load and controlling the switch?
Overkill is the only way to do it! Great video as I will be doing the same to my gooseneck trailer soon. How did you mix your paint for your airless sprayer? Did you have to cut it with Acetone?
Love the tips and tricks. Definitely overkill but hard to beat that extra lighting. I’m looking to paint/coat my deck on my trailer. I’ve seen people use old oil and do that but doesn’t seem like the best option. Any input would be great?
So the only reason I used deck stain on this trailer was because I had it on my shelf already from another project. I’m the past I’ve always just used a mixture of used motor oil and diesel fuel. It’s always worked great for and and protects the wood. Plus when your machine leaks it just blends in and treats the wood even more!
Outstanding sir, excellent workmanship. Love the Flag I salute you. Is that a 67-8 Camaro in the garage??? I'm watching from Australia. Stay safe, we hope Trump gets in in November, Australia is in real financial trouble as America is with the poor leadership and Ungodly despots. Stay safe.
Yessir. Nothing I’ve got on here pulls enough amperage to require another battery at the moment. I’ve got a winch I would like to put on but I will have to install a seperate battery for that.
Don’t over think it bud, find constant 12v power , tap into it, install relay ( for amperage reasons) then feed light off relay. Install switch that controls relay on/off. Bam done. There’s tons of videos out here on TH-cam on how relays work. I highly suggest watching one. Once you understand that part it all starts to make sense. Comment back if you have any issues and good luck.
Great video and the jokes were a welcome addition. What power are your lights that you are using a relay? I'm tapping 2-4 18W LED small bars, I'm thinking/hoping a 14ga wire added to the trailer fuse box should be enough? I've bought a SPDT rocker switch (ON-OFF-ON) with 6 pins. I intend to have them in pos I for reverse lights (only powered when truck in reverse), in pos II for flood (tapped into marker lights for loading, which will have to be turned off prior to pulling away) and off position. I wonder if relay would've been better in my case?
I always use relays. Not so much because I need them but because it cuts down on the stress on the electrical system in my opinion. Most people forget that heat is a big issue when it comes to electronics. The more demand you put on wire is the more demand you put on the connections. Once the connection heats up too much it fails and causes issues. I could go on and on but here’s your answer. Do you need to install relays? No. No you don’t for what your doing. But for me I’m always changing or adding somthing. So for me it’s a lot easier to just do it the right way and install them now. Hope this helps. Keep in mind the purpose of this video was to go overkill on this project. So don’t take what I do as the only way to do it. Good luck bud.
@@BuiltbyBurns Hey, for sure makes sense and yeah, I get the point of your video and going overkill. Video itself was great! Though with the relays - aren't they more meant to be a sort of electrical/automotive "if or and" function? I.e. you apply power and then you can get multiple circuitcs/coils energized. Whether or not you go directly from power to the device or run it through the a relay, your LEDs for example would still require the wires to carry the same current, no? I guess on the other hand you can power the relay with a higher awg wire, thus saving money on not having to run say 10ga due to voltage drop?
@@BuiltbyBurns that depends on the rating of your switch. If you have 4 ea 18W lights, that is 6 amps at 12 volts. Unless your switch is rated at least at 10 amps, it won't last long.
th-cam.com/video/HhT8aS4n-JE/w-d-xo.html Ok so click this link, it will take you to the video, directly under the video will be a short excerpt of the discription and at the end will say “show more”, click the show more and scroll down. There’s a ton of links there to choose from. Eveything is labeled and easy to use. If you have any issues let me know what exactly your looking for an maybe I can send you a link to what you need.
@@BuiltbyBurns I need the list of all the stuff you used to wire your flatbed. And the links to go buy it. Buying an old stock trailer and I want fresh wiring front to back.
@@deniselynn-fi3sw ok, here's the basics your going to need: amzn.to/3wNYmaD - 7 way plug with junction box amzn.to/3jgJBtW - heres the trailer wire, pic how long you want when purchasing amzn.to/3l49BJe - here's junction boxes, I used two of these, one for middle of trailer and one for rear amzn.to/3DxPw4z - this is the t splices used on running lights, purchase however many you need. my 25 ft trailer I used 8. amzn.to/3l6dtJG - here's the tail lights I used amzn.to/3l6dtJG- here's the third brake light I used, ( optional) amzn.to/3wJJ7j3 - here's the running lights I used. pick color and how many you want. I bought two red and 6 amber. amzn.to/3HodUqt - here's trailer breakaway controller I used. must have. amzn.to/3HyfINQ - here's the two wire I used just for running lights. this is a pretty basic list of stuff you need to completely wire the whole trailer like I did in video. if that's how your wanting to do it. keep in mind mine has been problem free since installing everything this way. good luck and I hope I've helped as much as possible but unfortunately this is as far as I can help.
I left links in my discription under the video of eveything I used on this trailer. If you click on the links I provided there it will take you to all the stuff you need. Good luck 👍
I'm doing the same project myself right now. Bought 2 18W light bars with 6 LEDs in each, supposedly throws 1530lm, small 7" bar. I'm going to put them on the back first for loading/reverse and if I like them, also add one on each side for getting in and out of the tack room/helper light for changing a flat etc. I have a SPDT 6-pin rocker switch (ON I - OFF - ON II). I intend to run power to the switch and lights from the middle pin, i.e. in reverse and lights will come on if switch is in position ON I. In ON II it will be tapped into the running light circuit, i.e. if it's dark enough for the side markers to be on, these lights will be needed too (loading an animal). And then position OFF is obvious. Going to likely run a 14ga from the trailer fuse box and add in-line 10A fuse. No idea how it'll work, but have wired cameras into the trailer wiring before and they work well.
I used the junction box at the rear to feed them. I ran a power wire and a neutral wire to each individual light. I also grounded each light to ensure they have a constant path to ground hoping to emininate any future issues. My apologies if I dident cover that enough in the video. Somtimes when editing I tend to try and speed the videos up when they get a little to long.
@@KarrieMcClellan-nv4tk for this piticular build I ran all individual because I had room on the lugs in the junction box. It’s overkill and not needed but that’s what I did so if the wire were to fail I would still have power to the other lights. You can do either way.
I actually sold this trailer a few months later. I sold it to a friend of mine for around 6k. I know I could have got more but that was about how much I had into the whole thing included what I purchased it for years prior. So although I did not make any profit I did not lose any money either. Plus I’ve made money using for my business.
@@BuiltbyBurns thanks for the reply. I have a heavy duty gooseneck its prolly 20 years old but its solid! It's all steel, no wood, bit thinking about painting it. Trying to figure out if it's worth painting or selling as is.
I’ve found in the past a 100 bucks worth of paint and some weekend labor will get you a lot more for a trailer in market place. For example I had a 16ft equipment trailer I had laying around for years that I decided to get rid of. So I drug it out and took some pictures and posted it forsale. After about 3 weeks and no intrest I decided to throw a new deck and some black paint on it. 500 bucks later I threw it back on marketplace and it was gone for more than I was asking by the end of the weekend. Just my opinion.
@@BuiltbyBurns thanks for the reply. That's encouraging!! I could prolly do in a week or so. Will be first time doing anything like this and have been watching lots of vids. I think, wire wheel the rust, muriatic acid it, wash that off, prime, paint, and rewire, which I have no clue about
I took my time. This is less than a 8 hour job if I were to do it all over again. It’s my personal trailer so I took my time. Changed a few things along the way and on top of all that I had to video everything. Could be done fast for sure but I was in no rush.
I have an 18’ bumper pull I need to rewire. Saw the junction box on line but still didn’t like having to splice wires at the running. Just this morning it dawned on me to use more than one junction box. That soured me to checkout TH-cam for trailer wiring again. To my surprise your video was the 2nd video that popped up. The land scraping connectors is genius! This is exactly how I’m going to wire up my trailer! Thanks for post this! I picked up my trailer cheap, all the floor boards have been removed due to rot, I’m going to rewire then install new boards. Will also get new breakaway system and I’ll also be adding the light bar and wheel lights which is also a great idea!
I’ll never have a trailer without the added lighting again. It’s way too convenient.
I've been wiring trailers my way professionally for years and have been using junction box's for the past few years with separate wire to each light and I'll be adding these splices to my method now. I see never had any come back for my work but dang
I love the way you did these lights. When I do something I want to do it so it last and this will last. I hate trailer wiring troubles. Great video thank you. God Bless
Best trailer lights I have found on TH-cam! I am all for making a trailer light up like a pro ball stadium.
I started looking around for a kit but didnt see a full kit for my trailer build. Your video was dead on--with links to boot this is great ..TY
Super helpful! Totally rewiring (after painting) my 25’ Searay’s 3 axle trailer. Thanks!
Having issues with my 12ft trailer running lights come off at some point when driving will try your video to do mine.
Nice video by the way
Great video. I have a 40ft 5th wheel project to fully wire and your video is going to be my step by step now. It's exactly how I'd like to do mine, I was just wasn't sure how yet. Thanks.
Beautiful work - and love the creative use of the t-connectors! For your next trailer, you might want to consider not soldering connections that are crimped, as this can - surprisingly! - make the electrical path weaker. (Not the actual crimped and soldered connection, which is pretty much solid - but it can make the wire leading into the crimped/soldered connection more prone to breaking due to recurring vibrations.)
Amazing buddy. One extra tip. If you wanted to overkill and were worried about certain areas like on those T’s where the skinny wire comes in and you said you’ll face it upwards in case water gets in, after you make the connection, fill the void with a dolup of diaelectric grease.
Anywhere where you worry a little bit of water may enter, give it a dab of grease and you’re good for years
3M Scotchkote FD is a coating that is designed for underground electrical splices . It is expensive but is really worth it . Dap 8889 is an acrylic bath and tub caulk . It works well to secure and weatherproof the pigtail wires to the terminal body .
Excellent Video !
I actually have some of the scotchkote in my electrical supplies and use it from time to time. Great stuff. Only reason I did not use it here was once you put that stuff on it’s a pain to get off if I were to add anything or if I wanted to change somthing up. Like you said it is expensive too. Great product though for sure.
AWESOME, absolutely killed it/ This is exactly what I was looking for!!! / "Over-kill" yup that's me lol
Very good job, young man.
Lots of great tips and good ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video, great information.
Overkill is my motto. I love it.
I do not see a part number on your two spot lights ?
Great video !!! Thanks for sharing !!
Could you do or tell me specifically how you powered up the relay and switch basically, where did you get your power for your line and load and controlling the switch?
Nice!
Thank you.
Nice job 👍😊
Overkill is the only way to do it! Great video as I will be doing the same to my gooseneck trailer soon. How did you mix your paint for your airless sprayer? Did you have to cut it with Acetone?
Yep. I just threw some paint thinner in the paint until it looked thin enough to spray. Worked great.
Love the tips and tricks. Definitely overkill but hard to beat that extra lighting.
I’m looking to paint/coat my deck on my trailer. I’ve seen people use old oil and do that but doesn’t seem like the best option. Any input would be great?
So the only reason I used deck stain on this trailer was because I had it on my shelf already from another project. I’m the past I’ve always just used a mixture of used motor oil and diesel fuel. It’s always worked great for and and protects the wood. Plus when your machine leaks it just blends in and treats the wood even more!
@@BuiltbyBurns That added bonus mightve put me over the top lol
Outstanding sir, excellent workmanship. Love the Flag I salute you. Is that a 67-8 Camaro in the garage??? I'm watching from Australia. Stay safe, we hope Trump gets in in November, Australia is in real financial trouble as America is with the poor leadership and Ungodly despots. Stay safe.
Your center markers/brake lights blink with whichever set of blinkers you used to feed it I’m assuming?
Yes they do.
Nice. So all the power is coming from the truck? No extra battery?
Yessir. Nothing I’ve got on here pulls enough amperage to require another battery at the moment. I’ve got a winch I would like to put on but I will have to install a seperate battery for that.
Loved this video... and love the overkill. Any chance you can go over how you wired in that switch?
Don’t over think it bud, find constant 12v power , tap into it, install relay ( for amperage reasons) then feed light off relay. Install switch that controls relay on/off. Bam done. There’s tons of videos out here on TH-cam on how relays work. I highly suggest watching one. Once you understand that part it all starts to make sense. Comment back if you have any issues and good luck.
Good Stuff !
Great video and the jokes were a welcome addition.
What power are your lights that you are using a relay? I'm tapping 2-4 18W LED small bars, I'm thinking/hoping a 14ga wire added to the trailer fuse box should be enough?
I've bought a SPDT rocker switch (ON-OFF-ON) with 6 pins. I intend to have them in pos I for reverse lights (only powered when truck in reverse), in pos II for flood (tapped into marker lights for loading, which will have to be turned off prior to pulling away) and off position. I wonder if relay would've been better in my case?
I always use relays. Not so much because I need them but because it cuts down on the stress on the electrical system in my opinion.
Most people forget that heat is a big issue when it comes to electronics. The more demand you put on wire is the more demand you put on the connections. Once the connection heats up too much it fails and causes issues.
I could go on and on but here’s your answer. Do you need to install relays? No. No you don’t for what your doing. But for me I’m always changing or adding somthing. So for me it’s a lot easier to just do it the right way and install them now.
Hope this helps. Keep in mind the purpose of this video was to go overkill on this project. So don’t take what I do as the only way to do it. Good luck bud.
@@BuiltbyBurns Hey, for sure makes sense and yeah, I get the point of your video and going overkill. Video itself was great!
Though with the relays - aren't they more meant to be a sort of electrical/automotive "if or and" function? I.e. you apply power and then you can get multiple circuitcs/coils energized. Whether or not you go directly from power to the device or run it through the a relay, your LEDs for example would still require the wires to carry the same current, no?
I guess on the other hand you can power the relay with a higher awg wire, thus saving money on not having to run say 10ga due to voltage drop?
@@BuiltbyBurns that depends on the rating of your switch. If you have 4 ea 18W lights, that is 6 amps at 12 volts. Unless your switch is rated at least at 10 amps, it won't last long.
sooo you used 14 gauge wire but used t splices that were 10 gauge?
Couldn't find LINK to buy this stuff. Looked under video, remix share and all those but no link
th-cam.com/video/HhT8aS4n-JE/w-d-xo.html Ok so click this link, it will take you to the video, directly under the video will be a short excerpt of the discription and at the end will say “show more”, click the show more and scroll down. There’s a ton of links there to choose from. Eveything is labeled and easy to use. If you have any issues let me know what exactly your looking for an maybe I can send you a link to what you need.
@@BuiltbyBurns I need the list of all the stuff you used to wire your flatbed. And the links to go buy it. Buying an old stock trailer and I want fresh wiring front to back.
@@deniselynn-fi3sw
ok, here's the basics your going to need:
amzn.to/3wNYmaD - 7 way plug with junction box
amzn.to/3jgJBtW - heres the trailer wire, pic how long you want when purchasing
amzn.to/3l49BJe - here's junction boxes, I used two of these, one for middle of trailer and one for rear
amzn.to/3DxPw4z - this is the t splices used on running lights, purchase however many you need. my 25 ft trailer I used 8.
amzn.to/3l6dtJG - here's the tail lights I used
amzn.to/3l6dtJG- here's the third brake light I used, ( optional)
amzn.to/3wJJ7j3 - here's the running lights I used. pick color and how many you want. I bought two red and 6 amber.
amzn.to/3HodUqt - here's trailer breakaway controller I used. must have.
amzn.to/3HyfINQ - here's the two wire I used just for running lights.
this is a pretty basic list of stuff you need to completely wire the whole trailer like I did in video. if that's how your wanting to do it. keep in mind mine has been problem free since installing everything this way. good luck and I hope I've helped as much as possible but unfortunately this is as far as I can help.
also if any of these products show unavailable just look below them for similar products, its all the same.
@@BuiltbyBurns thank you so much!
Bad ass video🤘🏾
So you didn't hook up the break away system
Going overkill? Loved it, but more overkill would have been using marine grade wiring and connectors.
true, but im not lookin to spend that kind of coin for that stuff. this was more of a budget overkill wire job.
Where is the list of stuff to get?
It’s all in the discription
@@BuiltbyBurns you said during your how to video there would be a list of stuff to go buy and where.
I left links in my discription under the video of eveything I used on this trailer. If you click on the links I provided there it will take you to all the stuff you need. Good luck 👍
@@BuiltbyBurns couldn't find it. New to utube. Thanks anyway
How many lumens are those fold lights?
I got a put those lights in my horse trailer
To be honest I’m not even sure. Just some basic ones off tractor supply shelf.
Thank 😂
I'm doing the same project myself right now. Bought 2 18W light bars with 6 LEDs in each, supposedly throws 1530lm, small 7" bar. I'm going to put them on the back first for loading/reverse and if I like them, also add one on each side for getting in and out of the tack room/helper light for changing a flat etc.
I have a SPDT 6-pin rocker switch (ON I - OFF - ON II). I intend to run power to the switch and lights from the middle pin, i.e. in reverse and lights will come on if switch is in position ON I.
In ON II it will be tapped into the running light circuit, i.e. if it's dark enough for the side markers to be on, these lights will be needed too (loading an animal). And then position OFF is obvious.
Going to likely run a 14ga from the trailer fuse box and add in-line 10A fuse. No idea how it'll work, but have wired cameras into the trailer wiring before and they work well.
How did you wire the rear lights? U didn't show that part..
I used the junction box at the rear to feed them. I ran a power wire and a neutral wire to each individual light. I also grounded each light to ensure they have a constant path to ground hoping to emininate any future issues. My apologies if I dident cover that enough in the video. Somtimes when editing I tend to try and speed the videos up when they get a little to long.
Ok, did u run each wire from box to lights or one wire then tap into the lights?@@BuiltbyBurns
@@KarrieMcClellan-nv4tk for this piticular build I ran all individual because I had room on the lugs in the junction box. It’s overkill and not needed but that’s what I did so if the wire were to fail I would still have power to the other lights. You can do either way.
how much would you sell the trailer for? or a range?
I actually sold this trailer a few months later. I sold it to a friend of mine for around 6k. I know I could have got more but that was about how much I had into the whole thing included what I purchased it for years prior. So although I did not make any profit I did not lose any money either. Plus I’ve made money using for my business.
@@BuiltbyBurns thanks for the reply. I have a heavy duty gooseneck its prolly 20 years old but its solid! It's all steel, no wood, bit thinking about painting it. Trying to figure out if it's worth painting or selling as is.
Its 25ft bed, 32ft total length. Prolly needs 4 new tires.
I’ve found in the past a 100 bucks worth of paint and some weekend labor will get you a lot more for a trailer in market place. For example I had a 16ft equipment trailer I had laying around for years that I decided to get rid of. So I drug it out and took some pictures and posted it forsale. After about 3 weeks and no intrest I decided to throw a new deck and some black paint on it. 500 bucks later I threw it back on marketplace and it was gone for more than I was asking by the end of the weekend. Just my opinion.
@@BuiltbyBurns thanks for the reply. That's encouraging!! I could prolly do in a week or so. Will be first time doing anything like this and have been watching lots of vids. I think, wire wheel the rust, muriatic acid it, wash that off, prime, paint, and rewire, which I have no clue about
18:35 - D E A D, that got me laughing hard haha
Ha gay
25 to 30 hours to do this?
I took my time. This is less than a 8 hour job if I were to do it all over again. It’s my personal trailer so I took my time. Changed a few things along the way and on top of all that I had to video everything. Could be done fast for sure but I was in no rush.
Wanna come do my trailer lol
It’s not hard just takes time and patience. It’s worth it in the long run.
Music ,not so much . Rest of content top shelf !