I did the side to side swap on my Dad's IH 424 when I was 15 years old. Slightly larger tire and FULL of calcium chloride. I did it all by my lonesome self, but looking back from age 70 now, its a wonder to me. I had to swap it back later, again by myself. OH MY!
I always enjoy watching you and your dad work together. You two are both so calm and collected, it makes for a very enjoyable video to watch. Look forward to seeing how the 8N does with the plow in the ground! Almost makes me want to get dad’s little N series going now!
I'm with you on the grease being better than anti-seize. Anti seize is great for smearing on the mechanics' creeper in the next bay so he gets a handful when he picks his creeper up! haha! !Enjoyed watching you and Sr. work on the 8N!
There are two books on e bay that i recommend pertaining to setting up a plow. Better Plowing and Plowing at it's best both published by International Harvester. Tells exactly what is needed to match up a tractor to a plow. Inside width of wheels compared to plow cut being the major factor. Tells exact measurements for each size plow no matter the manufacturer. Happy Plowing !
I wish handling the tires/rims was always that easy. I had to replace tires and wheels on my sons 8N. I had to beat the bolts out with an air hammer and 2lb dead blow. Those things get really crusty over time on the original top hat style rims. Love seeing some 8N love on the channel and hope to see you and senior plowing with it this summer.
Hey Toby,,always great to see you and Senior working together. And yes some of us, watch every minute and read every comment! Thats why when i need a Squatch fix,i rely on the 1113 build.
I am still surprised at how versatile the old tractors are, and I'm pretty sure thats why they're still in use to this day. Easy to work on, easy to mod to address specific tasks... And a random thought, yeah my grandfather grew up on a farm that used only mules ....well, he started working mules to plow fields in the 1890s, and he called all tractors 'Mules'.
Toby, great to see you and Sr together in a video. I think you have it adjusted for plowing. That’s the way my 8N spacing is set and it plows great. Can’t wait to see the 8N in action. Enjoyable video. Thanks
Thanks for the video Toby! That is a sweet little tractor. My brother in law just picked up a 48 8n and a 9n. The 8n is a bit of a project but runs amazing. The 9n was bought off the original owners grandson and is ready to be put to work. They are handy little machines to have. Cheers
I spent thousands of hours on an 8N growing up. We moved the front and rear wheels multiple times a year. Rears went out to 88" and fronts in to 44" to cultivate 22" rows. Then back to regular setting (not sure inches) to mow and rake hay and do field work. We had a set of steel lug dual wheels that we used when loading manure from the corral. Thanks for the memories
This comment isn't about today's video, but about your detailed description of the removal and re-installation of the PTO shaft on your Farmall M from a couple of years ago. I had to replace the bushing at the front end of the shaft and was able to do it because of the detail in your video. I did not have to pull the lid off. Thank You, Ellis Kinney
We had a market garden up in the Northwest Territories of Canada and had exactly the same tractor and 2 bottom plow! Had many memories of plowing the 30 acres every fall to get the fields ready for spring.
Good video 👍 the bog standard 2 furrow Ferguson plough over here in UK was a 10 inch furrow and rear wheel settings were usually 48inch centre of tyre to tyre, then with a 12 inch plough rear wheel settings were increased to 52 or 56 inch settings with front wheels set accordingly so that inside edge of front and rear tyres ran in line, final settings for getting the plough to run true can be achieved by turning the plough cross shaft one way or the other and also moving the whole plough either on land or off land by sliding it across the shaft 👍 looking forward to seeing it in the field 👍
Always remember to rotate your tires every 5,000 miles or fifty years, whichever comes first. I like the look of the wheels with the offset outwards better anyway, and it's probably more stable on a hillside. That front end coming apart reminds of dropping a K-frame out from under an older Mopar front end that has torsion bar suspension. When you drop it away from its mounts, it just flops all around in about 40 planes of motion. They are actually kind of dangerous to handle like that. Nice job. Love it when you and Senior team up together.
That is the sound of my childhood. One neighbor had an early 50's Massey Ferguson. One neighbor had a Jubilee Ford. A couple had 50's Internationals, and I'm not sure what models. One neighbor had a late 60's or early 70's International. My step grandmother had a 50's International, probably an M, and her tenant farmer had probably a Super C. The only newer tractor around me was our Deutz, and it was a '75ish.
My best friends Dad had a 8N years ago and we loved it, we could do so many things with it that it was amazing. I love how nice yours looks and I missed the noise it makes.
I use a round mouth shovel rather than a pry bar when removing tyres. Allows you to lift, and drag the tyre away from the hub using the shovel as a skid, and also means you cal rotate the tyre by dropping it on the hub, move handle left or right, then lift tyre and bring handle to centre to jiggle the tyre around to line hub up. Also works great on semi truck tyres.
Excellent video Squatch 253 SR & JR also think you guys got Ford tractor all done nice on back and front wheels plus alignment perfectly too ! Thumbs up 👍 to both of hard working on this !
We had a 9n and a 600. I remember switching the wheels on the 600 many times. But did it a little different from you. I wondered if yours would be the same. On the 600, we would take the whole wheel (tire and rim) off and swap them. So rims would be concave when the wheels were set out.
Wow it's nice to see one of those sporting its 3 Points hitch plough and the wheel stance looks much better and old friend had a Ford Ferguson which is pretty similar I recall all the times we changed it back and forth. Cool video loved it.
That is a nice size garden you and Sr. started. Any drainage problems on the build site after all the rain? Will your friend be growing grass to make hay like he did a few years ago?
Thanks, be nice to see the adjustments made to the draft control when the time comes. Best I remember you put top link in the top hole on the tractor and have the spring just loose enough to barely turn it by hand.
This is such an early 8N that it doesn't have the top link bracket with the 3 different holes, it still has the 9N type bracket that just has the one, so that will make draft control adjustment a bit more difficult to dial in.
Nice 8N, till today I never new the early ones didn't have a live hydraulic pump. What would look sweet behind that would be a Dearborn 2 bottom disc plow.
I noticed you cranked the tractor to raise the 3 point. Have you ever seen the trick where you twist the PTO back and forth while the engine is off to raise the 3 point?
It would have been neat if you had the tractor jack that Ford sold when these old Ford tractors came out. It would have lifted the whole tractor. If you do plow with this tractor, please post the video(s)....I'm a Ford tractor guy, having 5 of them ranging from an early 1944 2N to a 1967 2000 3 cylinder gas. I do have a '47 8N that I have been replenishing. Maybe try some stabilizer bars also to keep the plow from drifting from side to side? I know there is some debate on using stabilizer bars for plowing, but it wouldn't hurt to try since you already have the stabilizer brackets mounted on the tractor.
Good job moving wheels out should make plow work better and also make tractor more stable with wider track Looks like u are having some inside time for small projects hope weather does not get really bad
It's interesting how similar the Ferguson tractor is to the 8N i noticed the front axle had the axle stay bars fixed to the center part of the axle on the 8n but it had the cast in lumps on the outer parts that my fergie has the axle stay bars fitted to
To run the hydraulic pump on the N series Fords, the PTO needs to be running as the pump is driven off the PTO shaft. This along with having the clutch engaged
My father had a TO-20 Harris Ferguson that he had a 2 disc plow for it. That plow would turn that tractor sideways when he tried to use it. The tractor was too light for that type of plow. He had a 3 point hitch disc for it that never was used in my lifetime. He said that it was too big for the tractor and that when he tried it out he had to be very careful because the front tires would barely stay on the ground when the disc was raised.
Rear wheel swap. At least there's no bolt-on weights to add extra fun by getting in the way or using through-bolts that end up holding the weight & hoop to the hub at the same time.
The usual method to over come the problem you had with the plow is to loosen the bolts on the cross shaft and then move the plow sideways and use adjustable stabiliser bars to the 3 point hydraulic arms to fine tune its position. . Looking at the plow there is a lot of scope for this adjustment. .
That adjustment is already as far as it will go, and it still needed more offset to track correctly behind the rear tire, so it was time to move the tire 👍
That was a nice bit of content for a rainy day. She’ll need the usual adjustments when the shares hit the sod but you’ll have her in fine fettle in a few minutes. Hi Sr. 🥸👍👀✅
Cool video, and thanks for it. Question though, I thought the Ford tractor color scheme was white and blue. Is this an earlier/different paint scheme or a custom job? No criticisms if is a custom paint job, people have the same right to paint their tractors whatever color they like same as their cars, motorcycles, houses, etc. I am just curious. Thanks.
Good question actually - so the complete history of the Ford tractor line color schemes goes like this: - Fordson model F tractors introduced in 1918 were a light gray with red wheels. - When Fordson tractor production ceased in Detroit, MI and shifted solely to Cork, Ireland in 1928 the colors changed to a dark blue with orange wheels. Some later Fordsons were also painted almost entirely orange. - With the introduction of the 9N Ford tractor in 1939 (first of what became the iconic 3-point tractor design) the color changed again to a dark battleship gray. - The model 2N was then introduced in 1942, still the same dark battleship gray. - The model 8N (as seen in this video) was introduced in 1948, and became known own as the “Red Belly” Ford because they abandoned the old dark gray and went with what they called “Ford Red” on the chassis and then used a much lighter gray on the hood, fenders, and wheels. This “Red Belly” color scheme lasted in one form or another until 1964 when the first “Ford Blue” tractors began rolling off the production line. It was common though, to see Ford tractor dealerships repaint older models blue to give them a more “modern” look when sitting on their used tractor lots - so running across an old N series Ford that is still wearing that updated blue paint isn’t unusual 👍
@@squatch253 Thank you for the detailed answer! A thought just struck me, if you ever set up a Discord channel or your own website, something that might be worth doing is copying all these questions and answers on your videos over to a dedicated page for people to search through. There's a lot of good info in all the comment sections but its a little difficult to search for anything specifically as who knows what video it might be under. Just an idea, use it if you want to, you can even claim it was your own if you like. Doesn't matter to much to me, I just enjoy helping out my favorite channel. Thanks again, and looking forward to the next video.
Unfortunately, if there’s one thing that I’ve learned from the comments section, it’s that very, very few people actually READ anything that’s posted here lol 😂
Hi, I think the settings for a ferguson plough is wrong and the wheel settings on your tractor were correct for the plough. When I was learning to plough I had instruction from a world match ploughing champion on setting up my plough and tractor. Front wheels tracking 48" tyre centres, rear wheels 52" tyre centres. (deep sides in). The plough cross shaft should be set so that the first bottom measures 12" from the inside of the right hand tyre at the point. These settings are for a 12" plough. I don't know if your settings are different from ours in Europe. Hope this helps.
Did you try rotating the cross shaft on the plow? The plows are designed to move them right or left to increase the width of cut on the furrow. The end of shaft (where you hook the tractor arm) has 2 flat surfaces to put a wrench on to make it easier to rotate. I sure wish you had a Dearborn plow instead of a Ferguson. They plow different on rolling the furrow.
You must have sandier soil than we have around here or in South Dakota where I grew up, as we always kept our plows shiny by putting grease on it. I now keep my plow in the shed all the time and just put a little oil on it. Great when you drop the plow in the ground for the first time and it scourers perfectly, I have a plow just like that only it is a Cockshut. I use it with my Super H with an aftermarket 3-point which isn't ideal.
Wheel spacing to inside of wheel for plowing , from center of tractor pto . 14 " is the magic number plus what ever the plow bottom is 14" + !4" = 28" . 14" + 16" = 30 " . All ways pull from center of plow . plow should be level side to side with tractor wheel in furrow and back of plow 1/2 " to 1" lower than front furrow . Plow draft rules for plows mounted and semi-mounted , On the land plows have the same rules other than the tractor sits up on the land and not in furrow ,so no 14" rule , but has a rule where dual wheels must not be to wide .If the duals run over furrow tractor loses traction on furrow side and wonts to turn tractor towards furrow be cause of more traction on land side pulling towards furrow ..I had a rod that bolted on the tractor that went out from tractor to furrow with a vertical rod that I eyed the furrow up with to know where furrow was witch I got from John Deere .
One aspect of farming equipment : it is designed for versatility because it would be financially impossible to have equipment design specifically for each task that may be needed by the many different types of agricultural operations in any given area .
never watched someone with such a dislike for anti seize as this channel, we used the stuff from Wurth and it was amazing, but then again at the cost of around $180.00 aus per 1kg tin it had to be
The total sum of my experiences with Anti-Seize is that it just makes a mess during application, and it dries up and disappears within 6 months, leaving things just as stuck as if you hadn’t used it. Regular grease is less messy and is still there doing its job years later 👍
@@squatch253 the TH-camrs I've seen using anti seize apply way too much, a ridiculous amount, we would often use it on the splines of drive shafts on early Ford Lasers and Telstar's ( think Mazda 323 and 626 models), never had a problem removing the shafts even years later, grease on the other hand would dry up and create issues. As I said though, I only ever used Wurth CU-800, never crap like permatex or any of the silver types,
Hey if you need some more "content" for the 8n can you touch up the ford emblems on the fender and hood that makes my eyes twich lol , keep up the good videos, love them all
I grew up with these tractors. My dad had 2 of them in the late 40's and early 50's. I have plowed many acres with one and the rear wheels never had the dish out for plowing. The only time the dish was out was for cultivating. Something didn't look quite right about that plow. The bar that has the pins which connect to the lift arms don't look right. Ours were never stright up and down. They had a slight twist to them. I think if you twisted it so the right pin is slightly behind will cause the plow to go left. I'm not sure which way to turn it but I think the right pin was behind I do know that the wheels are too wide now and the plow is not stright the tractor. If the plow is adjusted correct the plow follows drictly behind the tractor. It will not require much twist to cause the plow to move.
Mf users can make a frame that lifts front and back of the tractor at the same time for doing these jobs. This systems works when one raises the hydraulics.
I did the side to side swap on my Dad's IH 424 when I was 15 years old. Slightly larger tire and FULL of calcium chloride. I did it all by my lonesome self, but looking back from age 70 now, its a wonder to me. I had to swap it back later, again by myself. OH MY!
A man and his dad spending a rainy day working on a tractor. How much better could it get 👍
I always enjoy watching you and your dad work together. You two are both so calm and collected, it makes for a very enjoyable video to watch. Look forward to seeing how the 8N does with the plow in the ground! Almost makes me want to get dad’s little N series going now!
An uncle's definition of Eternity was 'Plowing 80 acres with a two bottom plow'.
I’m sure that you know how lucky you are to have a dad like Senior!
Thanks, Squatch
Always enjoy watching you and Senior working together. 👍
I'm with you on the grease being better than anti-seize. Anti seize is great for smearing on the mechanics' creeper in the next bay so he gets a handful when he picks his creeper up! haha! !Enjoyed watching you and Sr. work on the 8N!
There are two books on e bay that i recommend pertaining to setting up a plow. Better Plowing and Plowing at it's best both published by International Harvester. Tells exactly what is needed to match up a tractor to a plow. Inside width of wheels compared to plow cut being the major factor. Tells exact measurements for each size plow no matter the manufacturer. Happy Plowing !
I wish handling the tires/rims was always that easy. I had to replace tires and wheels on my sons 8N. I had to beat the bolts out with an air hammer and 2lb dead blow. Those things get really crusty over time on the original top hat style rims. Love seeing some 8N love on the channel and hope to see you and senior plowing with it this summer.
Great teamwork and you both have a pleasing presense on camera.
Hey Toby,,always great to see you and Senior working together. And yes some of us, watch every minute and read every comment! Thats why when i need a Squatch fix,i rely on the 1113 build.
I am still surprised at how versatile the old tractors are, and I'm pretty sure thats why they're still in use to this day. Easy to work on, easy to mod to address specific tasks... And a random thought, yeah my grandfather grew up on a farm that used only mules ....well, he started working mules to plow fields in the 1890s, and he called all tractors 'Mules'.
Toby, great to see you and Sr together in a video. I think you have it adjusted for plowing. That’s the way my 8N spacing is set and it plows great. Can’t wait to see the 8N in action. Enjoyable video. Thanks
Nice to have a Senior episode.
That’s a pretty sweet tractor
Love those two-tone paint schemes on those old 8Ns - same for the old Ferguson 35s. Great work on the Ford!💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
you need one of them ford jacks that used the 3 point to raise all 4 wheels at the same time
Thanks for the video Toby! That is a sweet little tractor. My brother in law just picked up a 48 8n and a 9n. The 8n is a bit of a project but runs amazing. The 9n was bought off the original owners grandson and is ready to be put to work. They are handy little machines to have. Cheers
I saw the jackstands slide in, and the axles above it and I was thinking to myself "RUBBER!" and you guys never disappoint!
Old inner tube comes in handy 👍😂
A bonus of the rain is it should k ock the pollen down quite a bit, you might luck into some painting conditions if the buzzing pests calm down.
I’m HOPING to be able to get the red on all of the Super M wheel pieces tomorrow - it looks promising as of right now 👍
I spent thousands of hours on an 8N growing up. We moved the front and rear wheels multiple times a year. Rears went out to 88" and fronts in to 44" to cultivate 22" rows. Then back to regular setting (not sure inches) to mow and rake hay and do field work. We had a set of steel lug dual wheels that we used when loading manure from the corral.
Thanks for the memories
These Ford tractors were everywhere, in the farmland areas I grew up in, in the 50s and 60s.
This comment isn't about today's video, but about your detailed description of the removal and re-installation of the PTO shaft on your Farmall M from a couple of years ago. I had to replace the bushing at the front end of the shaft and was able to do it because of the detail in your video. I did not have to pull the lid off. Thank You, Ellis Kinney
love when senior chimes in
Toby, ford made a 3pt hitch jack for the 8n , really nice
We had a market garden up in the Northwest Territories of Canada and had exactly the same tractor and 2 bottom plow! Had many memories of plowing the 30 acres every fall to get the fields ready for spring.
I really like watching how you work and I really admire the calm way you and your father work
Dad was really excited to see Senior doing some narrating. Hopefully it fits out the door, 😂.
You made me yell out NO to playing in the rain. My tractors only get wet when they need a wash. lol
Another very enjoyable video. Gentle, precise work.
Good video 👍 the bog standard 2 furrow Ferguson plough over here in UK was a 10 inch furrow and rear wheel settings were usually 48inch centre of tyre to tyre, then with a 12 inch plough rear wheel settings were increased to 52 or 56 inch settings with front wheels set accordingly so that inside edge of front and rear tyres ran in line, final settings for getting the plough to run true can be achieved by turning the plough cross shaft one way or the other and also moving the whole plough either on land or off land by sliding it across the shaft 👍 looking forward to seeing it in the field 👍
Always remember to rotate your tires every 5,000 miles or fifty years, whichever comes first. I like the look of the wheels with the offset outwards better anyway, and it's probably more stable on a hillside. That front end coming apart reminds of dropping a K-frame out from under an older Mopar front end that has torsion bar suspension. When you drop it away from its mounts, it just flops all around in about 40 planes of motion. They are actually kind of dangerous to handle like that. Nice job. Love it when you and Senior team up together.
That is the sound of my childhood. One neighbor had an early 50's Massey Ferguson. One neighbor had a Jubilee Ford. A couple had 50's Internationals, and I'm not sure what models. One neighbor had a late 60's or early 70's International. My step grandmother had a 50's International, probably an M, and her tenant farmer had probably a Super C. The only newer tractor around me was our Deutz, and it was a '75ish.
I learned to plow on my dad’s 48 8n when I was 13 years old.
My best friends Dad had a 8N years ago and we loved it, we could do so many things with it that it was amazing. I love how nice yours looks and I missed the noise it makes.
Working with your dad. I wish I’d done more of that.
The 8N is such a great tractor. The old 40’s/50’s iron was the apex of durability in my humble opinion.
As per old massey ferguson manuals (as late as 60s manuals for the 135), there was a jack that would use the 3pls to jack the back of the tractor up
Yes. Still have one. It picks up the whole tractor, not just the rear.
Thanks for the video .
Looks great! I’ve always loved the Ford 8n. I did the same to my ‘53 Ferguson TO-30. I use that thing everyday around the farm.
Except for the manufacturer of course and not being gray in color gosh it brought back memories of my childhood. Edit beautiful restoration.
I use a round mouth shovel rather than a pry bar when removing tyres. Allows you to lift, and drag the tyre away from the hub using the shovel as a skid, and also means you cal rotate the tyre by dropping it on the hub, move handle left or right, then lift tyre and bring handle to centre to jiggle the tyre around to line hub up. Also works great on semi truck tyres.
Excellent video Squatch 253 SR & JR also think you guys got Ford tractor all done nice on back and front wheels plus alignment perfectly too ! Thumbs up 👍 to both of hard working on this !
We had a 9n and a 600. I remember switching the wheels on the 600 many times. But did it a little different from you. I wondered if yours would be the same. On the 600, we would take the whole wheel (tire and rim) off and swap them. So rims would be concave when the wheels were set out.
Thank you for sharing this project.
Wow it's nice to see one of those sporting its 3 Points hitch plough and the wheel stance looks much better and old friend had a Ford Ferguson which is pretty similar I recall all the times we changed it back and forth. Cool video loved it.
Looks cool with plow from the back.👍👍
That is a nice size garden you and Sr. started. Any drainage problems on the build site after all the rain? Will your friend be growing grass to make hay like he did a few years ago?
Thanks, be nice to see the adjustments made to the draft control when the time comes. Best I remember you put top link in the top hole on the tractor and have the spring just loose enough to barely turn it by hand.
This is such an early 8N that it doesn't have the top link bracket with the 3 different holes, it still has the 9N type bracket that just has the one, so that will make draft control adjustment a bit more difficult to dial in.
That is a fun project to experiment with.
One of my first tractors was an `48 8N with the front pancake ignition, 6v. positive ground. I spent more time fixing it to run than I did using it.
I have one of those to. Need some work
Nice 8N, till today I never new the early ones didn't have a live hydraulic pump. What would look sweet behind that would be a Dearborn 2 bottom disc plow.
I noticed you cranked the tractor to raise the 3 point. Have you ever seen the trick where you twist the PTO back and forth while the engine is off to raise the 3 point?
Thanks for the video Toby! A little change of pace but a great informative video. Can’t wait to see what comes next
Love seeing 8N videos I've got a 51 with Sherman combo.
Looks like you can squeeze out four different bias positions in those drive tires if you flip the hubs and the tires accordingly.
The one thing I dislike about my '49 8N is reverse gear is about twice as fast as it oughta be!
Senior has said the same thing about this tractor 👍
Draft is critical when plowing and it's been my experience it can drive you nuts ,but when it's right it's a fine thing
Looks like it is ready to go!
It would have been neat if you had the tractor jack that Ford sold when these old Ford tractors came out. It would have lifted the whole tractor.
If you do plow with this tractor, please post the video(s)....I'm a Ford tractor guy, having 5 of them ranging from an early 1944 2N to a 1967 2000 3 cylinder gas. I do have a '47 8N that I have been replenishing. Maybe try some stabilizer bars also to keep the plow from drifting from side to side? I know there is some debate on using stabilizer bars for plowing, but it wouldn't hurt to try since you already have the stabilizer brackets mounted on the tractor.
Good job moving wheels out should make plow work better and also make tractor more stable with wider track Looks like u are having some inside time for small projects hope weather does not get really bad
It's interesting how similar the Ferguson tractor is to the 8N i noticed the front axle had the axle stay bars fixed to the center part of the axle on the 8n but it had the cast in lumps on the outer parts that my fergie has the axle stay bars fitted to
To run the hydraulic pump on the N series Fords, the PTO needs to be running as the pump is driven off the PTO shaft. This along with having the clutch engaged
Nice job!
Thank you guys
My father had a TO-20 Harris Ferguson that he had a 2 disc plow for it. That plow would turn that tractor sideways when he tried to use it. The tractor was too light for that type of plow. He had a 3 point hitch disc for it that never was used in my lifetime. He said that it was too big for the tractor and that when he tried it out he had to be very careful because the front tires would barely stay on the ground when the disc was raised.
Rear wheel swap. At least there's no bolt-on weights to add extra fun by getting in the way or using through-bolts that end up holding the weight & hoop to the hub at the same time.
Keep your eyes open for a "Ferguson Jack"...
The usual method to over come the problem you had with the plow is to loosen the bolts on the cross shaft and then move the plow sideways and use adjustable stabiliser bars to the 3 point hydraulic arms to fine tune its position. . Looking at the plow there is a lot of scope for this adjustment. .
That adjustment is already as far as it will go, and it still needed more offset to track correctly behind the rear tire, so it was time to move the tire 👍
Did I miss the episode where you tuned up the ford? Loved this episode btw!
We didn't record any of the tune-up, just got it done :-)
Looking forward to seeing the Ford roll some dirt.
That was a nice bit of content for a rainy day. She’ll need the usual adjustments when the shares hit the sod but you’ll have her in fine fettle in a few minutes. Hi Sr. 🥸👍👀✅
Cool video, and thanks for it. Question though, I thought the Ford tractor color scheme was white and blue. Is this an earlier/different paint scheme or a custom job? No criticisms if is a custom paint job, people have the same right to paint their tractors whatever color they like same as their cars, motorcycles, houses, etc. I am just curious. Thanks.
Good question actually - so the complete history of the Ford tractor line color schemes goes like this:
- Fordson model F tractors introduced in 1918 were a light gray with red wheels.
- When Fordson tractor production ceased in Detroit, MI and shifted solely to Cork, Ireland in 1928 the colors changed to a dark blue with orange wheels. Some later Fordsons were also painted almost entirely orange.
- With the introduction of the 9N Ford tractor in 1939 (first of what became the iconic 3-point tractor design) the color changed again to a dark battleship gray.
- The model 2N was then introduced in 1942, still the same dark battleship gray.
- The model 8N (as seen in this video) was introduced in 1948, and became known own as the “Red Belly” Ford because they abandoned the old dark gray and went with what they called “Ford Red” on the chassis and then used a much lighter gray on the hood, fenders, and wheels.
This “Red Belly” color scheme lasted in one form or another until 1964 when the first “Ford Blue” tractors began rolling off the production line. It was common though, to see Ford tractor dealerships repaint older models blue to give them a more “modern” look when sitting on their used tractor lots - so running across an old N series Ford that is still wearing that updated blue paint isn’t unusual 👍
@@squatch253 well put
@@squatch253 Thank you for the detailed answer! A thought just struck me, if you ever set up a Discord channel or your own website, something that might be worth doing is copying all these questions and answers on your videos over to a dedicated page for people to search through. There's a lot of good info in all the comment sections but its a little difficult to search for anything specifically as who knows what video it might be under. Just an idea, use it if you want to, you can even claim it was your own if you like. Doesn't matter to much to me, I just enjoy helping out my favorite channel. Thanks again, and looking forward to the next video.
Unfortunately, if there’s one thing that I’ve learned from the comments section, it’s that very, very few people actually READ anything that’s posted here lol 😂
@@squatch253+the British-made Fords (Fordsons) kept the blue and orange color scheme up untill June of 1963
Sometimes sway bars can be of value too. 😊
Thanks for sharing
Enjoyed the video!
Tighten your arm chains also. 😂. I had to learn that the hard way
Hi,
I think the settings for a ferguson plough is wrong and the wheel settings on your tractor were correct for the plough.
When I was learning to plough I had instruction from a world match ploughing champion on setting up my plough and tractor.
Front wheels tracking 48" tyre centres, rear wheels 52" tyre centres. (deep sides in).
The plough cross shaft should be set so that the first bottom measures 12" from the inside of the right hand tyre at the point.
These settings are for a 12" plough.
I don't know if your settings are different from ours in Europe.
Hope this helps.
This is a 2-14” plow, pretty standard bottom size here 👍
That set up, looks like it'll be cutting a almighty wide front furrow..
Did you try rotating the cross shaft on the plow? The plows are designed to move them right or left to increase the width of cut on the furrow. The end of shaft (where you hook the tractor arm) has 2 flat surfaces to put a wrench on to make it easier to rotate. I sure wish you had a Dearborn plow instead of a Ferguson. They plow different on rolling the furrow.
We’ve adjusted everything to the maximum on this plow, and have come to the conclusion that the rear wheels were just in too far 👍
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Good video
You must have sandier soil than we have around here or in South Dakota where I grew up, as we always kept our plows shiny by putting grease on it. I now keep my plow in the shed all the time and just put a little oil on it. Great when you drop the plow in the ground for the first time and it scourers perfectly, I have a plow just like that only it is a Cockshut. I use it with my Super H with an aftermarket 3-point which isn't ideal.
Yep all it takes is 50 feet in the ground here and those bottoms shine like brand new lol 😂
Wheel spacing to inside of wheel for plowing , from center of tractor pto . 14 " is the magic number plus what ever the plow bottom is 14" + !4" = 28" . 14" + 16" = 30 " . All ways pull from center of plow . plow should be level side to side with tractor wheel in furrow and back of plow 1/2 " to 1" lower than front furrow . Plow draft rules for plows mounted and semi-mounted , On the land plows have the same rules other than the tractor sits up on the land and not in furrow ,so no 14" rule , but has a rule where dual wheels must not be to wide .If the duals run over furrow tractor loses traction on furrow side and wonts to turn tractor towards furrow be cause of more traction on land side pulling towards furrow ..I had a rod that bolted on the tractor that went out from tractor to furrow with a vertical rod that I eyed the furrow up with to know where furrow was witch I got from John Deere .
My uncle had a rig to lift all four wheels on his Ford , using the lift arms . I think it was a Ford built item,
One aspect of farming equipment : it is designed for versatility because it would be financially impossible to have equipment design specifically for each task that may be needed by the many different types of agricultural operations in any given area .
What you need is to retrofit that sucker with those AC spin-out rims like on the WD-45.
Padded jack stands!
Inside of furrow wheel to where shin cuts furrow should be same as bottom size. 12", 14" or 16"
never watched someone with such a dislike for anti seize as this channel, we used the stuff from Wurth and it was amazing, but then again at the cost of around $180.00 aus per 1kg tin it had to be
The total sum of my experiences with Anti-Seize is that it just makes a mess during application, and it dries up and disappears within 6 months, leaving things just as stuck as if you hadn’t used it. Regular grease is less messy and is still there doing its job years later 👍
@@squatch253 the TH-camrs I've seen using anti seize apply way too much, a ridiculous amount, we would often use it on the splines of drive shafts on early Ford Lasers and Telstar's ( think Mazda 323 and 626 models), never had a problem removing the shafts even years later, grease on the other hand would dry up and create issues. As I said though, I only ever used Wurth CU-800, never crap like permatex or any of the silver types,
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looks too wide of setting for the plow ? we owned a 8n with same plow. Never had ours that wide.
Hey if you need some more "content" for the 8n can you touch up the ford emblems on the fender and hood that makes my eyes twich lol , keep up the good videos, love them all
What about your anti sway bars. they stop the implements from moving sideways during operation.
They’re not to be used with the plows, they inhibit the drafting action that you’ll need to have if you ever need to plow on a slight arcing path.
@@squatch253 Thank you! I was going to ask where the stabilizers went but reading the comments saved me the time. 👍
So at the end of the video, say "Hey Dad, don't get me with the plough!!!" 😆😆
I always thought that the plows for the N series were Dearborn, built on the Dearborn plant owned by Henry Ford ?
I grew up with these tractors. My dad had 2 of them in the late 40's and early 50's. I have plowed many acres with one and the rear wheels never had the dish out for plowing. The only time the dish was out was for cultivating. Something didn't look quite right about that plow. The bar that has the pins which connect to the lift arms don't look right. Ours were never stright up and down. They had a slight twist to them. I think if you twisted it so the right pin is slightly behind will cause the plow to go left. I'm not sure which way to turn it but I think the right pin was behind I do know that the wheels are too wide now and the plow is not stright the tractor. If the plow is adjusted correct the plow follows drictly behind the tractor. It will not require much twist to cause the plow to move.
Mf users can make a frame that lifts front and back of the tractor at the same time for doing these jobs. This systems works when one raises the hydraulics.
My dad had a tractor like that when i was a kid and the neighbor had one they called a Ferguson or something like that but it looked the same.