Exactly it missing some major information like: how do you know your extruder is printing correctly what is considered a good print test result, what is considered a wrong test and how to correct those...
I was so excited to try this, as I have been having issues with bed leveling my CR-10 lately. But you don't explain how to know if it is leveled properly, or what to watch for when you start this print. Also I noticed that my print doesn't follow the same sequence as yours, does not follow a square from outside in. It goes from left to right for the entire print
@@drdoctor101 I don't know much about 3D printers. I bought a CR10s and have used it once. To move left to right for the entire print would be a raster mode on other tools like a laser cutter. Check settings on your printer and the slicing engine you are using. I would think that the slicing engine is responsible for generating movements that follow the outline of the part (contour) and the infill (raster).
I just unboxed my new CR 10-S, assembled and connected the cables and fired it up all without issues. I am new to 3D printing and this is my first printer. I have watched many videos on setup and leveling and printable upgrades. One of the printable upgrades is the cable strain relief for the hot bed. This printer actually came with that and the larger bed level wheels. Score for me. So back to bed leveling with the home position and manual bed leveling and a sheet of paper method. My issue is that when I move the nozzle to the left rear corner the nozzle hits the bed even though I have lowered the wheel as far as it will go. The remaining corners are all good with said adjustment. I clipped the ziptie and removed to cover for the strain relief bracket, backed off the wheel and removed the screw and spring and the bracket. I reinstalled the spring screw and wheel and now I can get the bed to lower to a similar height of the other three corners and level the bed. My question is this, is there a different strain relief bracket that is available? I believe the issue is with the length of the spring, ie; too long. My thought was to cut about a 1 coils width from the spring to allow for the thickness of the supplied strain relief bracket, and still get the full adjustment of that leveler position. So in short, with the supplied strain relief bracket installed, the bed cannot be lowered enough to clear the bed and adjust the bed height. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Now I am a beginner and on my CR10 mini - simply homing, adjust with paper - disabling the steppers and doing the corners to paper is the simple best! THX very helpful!
Uncle Jesse I'm old and disabled I don't have a long time left to learn this I just bought a cr-10 V2 it's supposedly has all the upgrades whatever that means. I have a working history in robotics and 3D model making two lesser extent so that part doesn't bother me I guess assembled my cr10 very simple I noticed there was no adjustment in the z-axis limit switch which really surprised me. So when I home this thing it ends up being at least I don't know maybe a quarter inch maybe what 7 mm 8 mm off of the plate. I noticed that the plate adjusters were all the way tight in other words pulling down the plate as far as it could be which really was weird period but anyway so I tried to adjust it up but I can just barely get it to drag a piece of paper a little tiny questionable feel of drag and a paper in the jesters are all the way loose I mean all the way loose. They would start unscrewing themselves if I tried to go any farther. Have you ever seen this what should I check? Please help
I decided to test it too after this video... This type of stuff happens only to me: my box with the hotend went over one of the clips and clip went straight into my face... Rise of the machines!!!
Righty tighty brings bed lower away from nozzle...this is the biggest challenge to me when tuning bed ...but gets easier the more you do it.. my machine has custom knobs i made which are not as big as the ones shown in video...Larger knobs make leveling easier imo...
Heres a question... is there such a thing as a large cr10 300 x 300 leveling doing the paper test and getting exact amount of drag resistance in all areas of the bed??? just spent 40 mins and i got it good ,but not perfect... i bought some 12 inch mirror glass that was way flatter than the glass that came with it btw... but maybe there is no such thing as a perctly flat piece of glass...also i think if you are mainly printing i the center 6x6 area it may be best to get that area as perfect and consistent as possible...does that make sense??...i have been into 3d printing for 3 months using a ender 5, which i feel was the prefect machine to start with btw... thanks for your straight forward no BS videos..Happy New Year!
Happy New Years to you as well. I use mirrors on most of my printers just because it gives that almost perfect flat surface. It just takes a lot of little tweaking to get it as good as level as you can get.
@@UncleJessy yes.. thats what i mean... i am sure out of the pack of 6 mirrors you buy they all are a little different and not perfect... i was lucky to find a cr10s clone very cheap... i had to take some time working on it,but finally i think i got a great machine... have $150 plus the 6 mirrors i bought... thanks!
Hi, do u maybe have the stl or gcode for the adjustment of the bed the blue screws 😁 and do u maybe have an idea why my cr10s5 can’t be adjust on the right front corner ? The bolt is total loose and stil don’t touch the plate 🤔 got new springs but that didn’t work
It has been a while since i manually levelled the bed, But just got in my CR-10, literally within 3 minutes of putting the printer together, running a few calibrations on it, i set the temp to 60 on the bed, and levelled it using the paper method, then took the STL file you mentioned about, and bam, perfect already, those who know, know, those who don't complain and blame :-)
I have to adjust the level after every print because the bed seems to move up after every job and I always have to lower it again at all four corners on my cr-10 mini.
I hate four corner bed leveling. I prefer two in the front and one in the back center. So much easier. This looks interesting but you have to get to a certain point where the bed is essentially level to start with and then tweak it.
Great video. It's one of the reasons I recommend your channel for help to folks on FB. My wonderful hubby gifted me the cr 10 v3 for xmas. I got it running right out of the box. I was able to manually level/tram it in fine. It comes w/ direct drive instead of like yours did and I must say, I'm actually considering upgrading my machines w/ direct drive. However, I do have an issue. Not sure what to make of it and what to do to sort it. I ran across your video for the leveling of the cr10 and I was hoping you might have an idea. So far my biggest complaint is the Z-stop screws into the frame so I can't adjust it like I do w/ the Ender 3. As a rule For my 3's I snug the bed down and back off enough for adjustment. This lets me tighten up the springs a bit and seems to hold my tram/level better. However, for the 10, I am at the mercy of the stationary zstop. I've leveled it, but occassionally, I've come close to fully lossening the back left corner. I suspect this may be causing my issue. I get a great really awesom print, then I have to relevel/retram. A few times I managed to get mulitple prints before I have to some it is every time. Do you have any thoughts? Everything is stock for the v3 I ordered. thanks
True!! I failed most times and the print is crap. Its so so annoying. I bought the elegoo neptune 2s and now regretting it. Will prob sent it back if I cant get the leveling correctly.... its too hard. Ill prob buy an auto level..
Thank you, Uncle Jesse. This video will help a lot once I get my CR-10. For everyone out there, I am still deciding a CR-10s or CR-10 Enlarge. What has everyone's experience been with the CR-10 enlarge?
I eye level on a mirror. Ill move the print head over the bed and watch the spacing as it travels then adjust accordingly. (The spacing is calculated using the reflection)
One big problem. When you home the CR10, the extruder lowers to its lowest point but then it raises above by default and this home position is not near the bed to do the paper leveling
I've been stuck at step one forrrr... over a year now. I busted my ass turning those damn nobs for hours trying to do that paper test but no matter what I did it was always off kilter. I haven't used it once. It's just been sitting there all this time.
The basics are always a valuable plus ! and with this technique will have you up and running even faster great Info Uncle Jessy as always Happy Extruding Brother !
Nice file for the leveling, I have the A5 as well. What mods did you do to it to make it better. I recently also bought the Tronxy X5sa, as its a core XY printer, i am hoping it will give me nicer and faster prints. What do you think?
Here is my problem..I am unable to adjust screw 4 (right corner) from my perspective . Nozzle holds paper very hard and I cannot move paper no matter what side I roll screw clockwise -anticlockwise. Nothing happens . Paper just doesn’t move ..
Hey Uncle Jessy! I have a Creality CR-10 S5 Plus and no matter what I do when I go to level the bed the right side is VASTLY off (mainly the front right corner). It seems like no amount of adjusting, moving, or otherwise seems to fix this. It's driving me crazy and I'm at a loss as to what to do. Do you have any suggestions?
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
I realize your video is older now but still good. I have a different question about leveling. I have a duel extruder printer. It’s called a Klick N Print. Think rip off of an older makerbot. Is there anything to help ensure both printheads are the same distance from the bed?
Thanks. Unfortunately I don’t have much experience with dual extruder machines. For my raise3D (before I removed the 2nd extruder) I used a business card to make sure each was the same height. No idea if that helps at all or not.
@@UncleJessy I think the hard part about this is the variance in assembly of each extruder unit. I was thinking about printing a Jig to ensure the distance was equal and did not very when tightening parts down but the best i found so far was to drop both units to the bed with a thin card like you mentioned, hold them down and tighten their heights up. Then it's pretty close.
@@tuskawilla this is my thinking too. Make sure the bed itself is level, then drop both hotends so they touch the surface (ideally something pretty uniform in thickness so id you have a metal ruler or long feeler gauge that's great - then clamp them down, and recheck that the friction with the surface is still equal on both nozzles.
Very good tip. Do have a question though. Have gotten several suggestions for this but it never hurts to get more. I have been battling the 400% scales print of Bullet Bill for the last week. Always starts off great but once I hit the 70ish hour mark my leveling knobs vibrate completely off of the printer. I have since tried using Teflon tape on the screws and it seems to do ok but I still have issues with some of them vibrating loose. Have tried the full print twice and am now just doing pieces and gluing together. Any ideas on the vibration issue and the leveling knob issue?
Hey Jesse iv tried every leveling technique possible i get it going then a print or two later its unleveled again! I'm in desperate need for help to know whats going on with my bed please help
I'm using a CR-10 V2. My prints are not centered. I don't think this is an issue with my slicer because the default gcode files print the same way. When it's trying to print it does jutter/skip on the x/y axis. Also, I cannot level my printer with the paper method because my leveling screws on the bottom of the heated plate are not adjusting the plate close to the nozzle, the adjusting screws are actually screwing off all together..
seems like a waste of filament.. but I have a problem with my bed where im unscrewing the manual gears but the bed wont go any higher seeimgly without the gear falling off and idk what to do..
try adjusting the micro switch that tells the extruder its level with the bed, I accidentally took mine off, and am having a hell of a time trying to level my bed, but I have no idea what I'm doing.
Do you use this file on your Raise3d N2 Plus? I've struggled to get my Raise3D N2 plus bed level but I love everything else about this printer. Too many screws!
troy im sure im late by now but messing with all the screws on that printer can take a while focus on the corners first and as you move only adjust as you see that printer for me has been a money pit nightmare I wouldn't give it away to my worse enemy $5000 about so far in needed parts and even upgrades thinking it would improve quality my delta qq and cr10 mini kill n2+ everytime stock
A good trick you can try is move all 4 knobs as tight (bed as low) as it will go. Then start from there. Alternatively you can add washers between the bolt and springs under the bed if you need to add more space so that it presses more. Not sure if that made sense 🤣
So while neat, ppl like me using an S5 can’t adjust on the fly, the dials are in such an inconvenient location on all 4 ends that you’ll just bump into the bed as it goes.
I cannot imagine leveling my bed "on the fly" while it's actually printing. Madness, I tell you! But in all seriousness, I need some kind of mesh-ABL, because my bed appears to be very irregular, every mirror I've tried is higher in the middle than at the corners.
Yes,but only after you get it best you can using paper method... it is tricky if you build surface is not perfectly flat regardless of your leveling methods imo..
I use a piece of brass shim stock .004 inches thick or equivilent to 0.1 mm thick. For me it takes away some of the feel of the paper. How much drag is too much or not enough. either the brass slides under without the bed or hotend moving or one moves meaning the gap is slightly small
two things ! man. Never use your wife's resume to level the bed unless you divorced. You will regret for life. Live leveling has injury potential. Refrain from it.
This would be more useful to beginners if you showed some examples of what to look for to indicate the bed is not yet level.
Exactly it missing some major information like: how do you know your extruder is printing correctly what is considered a good print test result, what is considered a wrong test and how to correct those...
I was so excited to try this, as I have been having issues with bed leveling my CR-10 lately. But you don't explain how to know if it is leveled properly, or what to watch for when you start this print.
Also I noticed that my print doesn't follow the same sequence as yours, does not follow a square from outside in. It goes from left to right for the entire print
@@drdoctor101 I don't know much about 3D printers. I bought a CR10s and have used it once. To move left to right for the entire print would be a raster mode on other tools like a laser cutter. Check settings on your printer and the slicing engine you are using. I would think that the slicing engine is responsible for generating movements that follow the outline of the part (contour) and the infill (raster).
I just unboxed my new CR 10-S, assembled and connected the cables and fired it up all without issues. I am new to 3D printing and this is my first printer. I have watched many videos on setup and leveling and printable upgrades. One of the printable upgrades is the cable strain relief for the hot bed. This printer actually came with that and the larger bed level wheels. Score for me. So back to bed leveling with the home position and manual bed leveling and a sheet of paper method. My issue is that when I move the nozzle to the left rear corner the nozzle hits the bed even though I have lowered the wheel as far as it will go. The remaining corners are all good with said adjustment. I clipped the ziptie and removed to cover for the strain relief bracket, backed off the wheel and removed the screw and spring and the bracket. I reinstalled the spring screw and wheel and now I can get the bed to lower to a similar height of the other three corners and level the bed. My question is this, is there a different strain relief bracket that is available? I believe the issue is with the length of the spring, ie; too long. My thought was to cut about a 1 coils width from the spring to allow for the thickness of the supplied strain relief bracket, and still get the full adjustment of that leveler position. So in short, with the supplied strain relief bracket installed, the bed cannot be lowered enough to clear the bed and adjust the bed height. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
thanks for the share :) and you pronounced the name perfectly :)
Now I am a beginner and on my CR10 mini - simply homing, adjust with paper - disabling the steppers and doing the corners to paper is the simple best! THX very helpful!
Uncle Jesse I'm old and disabled I don't have a long time left to learn this I just bought a cr-10 V2 it's supposedly has all the upgrades whatever that means. I have a working history in robotics and 3D model making two lesser extent so that part doesn't bother me I guess assembled my cr10 very simple I noticed there was no adjustment in the z-axis limit switch which really surprised me. So when I home this thing it ends up being at least I don't know maybe a quarter inch maybe what 7 mm 8 mm off of the plate. I noticed that the plate adjusters were all the way tight in other words pulling down the plate as far as it could be which really was weird period but anyway so I tried to adjust it up but I can just barely get it to drag a piece of paper a little tiny questionable feel of drag and a paper in the jesters are all the way loose I mean all the way loose. They would start unscrewing themselves if I tried to go any farther. Have you ever seen this what should I check? Please help
I decided to test it too after this video... This type of stuff happens only to me: my box with the hotend went over one of the clips and clip went straight into my face... Rise of the machines!!!
The wife's resume comment cheered me up. Here have a like :)
I agree for example what does it look like to close or when to far. Which way should you turn the wheels to raise or lower the bed.
Righty tighty brings bed lower away from nozzle...this is the biggest challenge to me when tuning bed ...but gets easier the more you do it.. my machine has custom knobs i made which are not as big as the ones shown in video...Larger knobs make leveling easier imo...
Heres a question... is there such a thing as a large cr10 300 x 300 leveling doing the paper test and getting exact amount of drag resistance in all areas of the bed??? just spent 40 mins and i got it good ,but not perfect... i bought some 12 inch mirror glass that was way flatter than the glass that came with it btw... but maybe there is no such thing as a perctly flat piece of glass...also i think if you are mainly printing i the center 6x6 area it may be best to get that area as perfect and consistent as possible...does that make sense??...i have been into 3d printing for 3 months using a ender 5, which i feel was the prefect machine to start with btw... thanks for your straight forward no BS videos..Happy New Year!
Happy New Years to you as well. I use mirrors on most of my printers just because it gives that almost perfect flat surface. It just takes a lot of little tweaking to get it as good as level as you can get.
@@UncleJessy yes.. thats what i mean... i am sure out of the pack of 6 mirrors you buy they all are a little different and not perfect... i was lucky to find a cr10s clone very cheap... i had to take some time working on it,but finally i think i got a great machine... have $150 plus the 6 mirrors i bought... thanks!
Hi, do u maybe have the stl or gcode for the adjustment of the bed the blue screws 😁 and do u maybe have an idea why my cr10s5 can’t be adjust on the right front corner ? The bolt is total loose and stil don’t touch the plate 🤔 got new springs but that didn’t work
It has been a while since i manually levelled the bed, But just got in my CR-10, literally within 3 minutes of putting the printer together, running a few calibrations on it, i set the temp to 60 on the bed, and levelled it using the paper method, then took the STL file you mentioned about, and bam, perfect already, those who know, know, those who don't complain and blame :-)
do you print straight on the glass bed?
I have to adjust the level after every print because the bed seems to move up after every job and I always have to lower it again at all four corners on my cr-10 mini.
I hate four corner bed leveling. I prefer two in the front and one in the back center. So much easier. This looks interesting but you have to get to a certain point where the bed is essentially level to start with and then tweak it.
I thought I was the only one who did it on the fly like that lol. Funny
Great video. It's one of the reasons I recommend your channel for help to folks on FB.
My wonderful hubby gifted me the cr 10 v3 for xmas. I got it running right out of the box. I was able to manually level/tram it in fine. It comes w/ direct drive instead of like yours did and I must say, I'm actually considering upgrading my machines w/ direct drive.
However, I do have an issue. Not sure what to make of it and what to do to sort it. I ran across your video for the leveling of the cr10 and I was hoping you might have an idea.
So far my biggest complaint is the Z-stop screws into the frame so I can't adjust it like I do w/ the Ender 3. As a rule For my 3's I snug the bed down and back off enough for adjustment. This lets me tighten up the springs a bit and seems to hold my tram/level better. However, for the 10, I am at the mercy of the stationary zstop. I've leveled it, but occassionally, I've come close to fully lossening the back left corner. I suspect this may be causing my issue. I get a great really awesom print, then I have to relevel/retram. A few times I managed to get mulitple prints before I have to some it is every time.
Do you have any thoughts? Everything is stock for the v3 I ordered.
thanks
Best part of 3D printing is spending an hour and a half trying to level your printer before every print.
there something wrong if you gotta level your bed before every print. i leveled my bed and its been a year since lol and i use it on the daily
True!! I failed most times and the print is crap. Its so so annoying. I bought the elegoo neptune 2s and now regretting it. Will prob sent it back if I cant get the leveling correctly.... its too hard. Ill prob buy an auto level..
@@adamchetwynd8320 what printer do you bought? I am sick of this neptune 2s...
Thank you, Uncle Jesse. This video will help a lot once I get my CR-10. For everyone out there, I am still deciding a CR-10s or CR-10 Enlarge. What has everyone's experience been with the CR-10 enlarge?
I eye level on a mirror. Ill move the print head over the bed and watch the spacing as it travels then adjust accordingly. (The spacing is calculated using the reflection)
Yes, but paper method is better for 99% of the rest of us..
When you disabled steppers, how did you disable gravity? Or is your gantry somehow otherwise immune to its effects?
One big problem. When you home the CR10, the extruder lowers to its lowest point but then it raises above by default and this home position is not near the bed to do the paper leveling
I've been stuck at step one forrrr... over a year now. I busted my ass turning those damn nobs for hours trying to do that paper test but no matter what I did it was always off kilter. I haven't used it once. It's just been sitting there all this time.
Is the file available as G-code? Or do I have to put the STL file into CURA and generate the G-code myself?
Where did you get your mirrors. I can’t find them anywhere. And would you use silicone inserts instead of springs for bed leveling
The basics are always a valuable plus ! and with this technique will have you up and running even faster great Info Uncle Jessy as always Happy Extruding Brother !
Spoiler Alert.... the print behind me failed at 91% complete over night... time to start it over again
Uncle Jessy is that the m'baku? That failed
Ouch...what caused it to fail, if you don’t mind?
any plans to review that other printer?
Print Winter soldier arms pls
Oh my GOSH NO!!
I just deployed my cr10 . After homing the nozzle is about 10mm and the bed. How should I go about it ?
I got the knobs tightest they go but the nib is still carving lines in the glass I think the springs under the bed are to long
Nice file for the leveling, I have the A5 as well. What mods did you do to it to make it better. I recently also bought the Tronxy X5sa, as its a core XY printer, i am hoping it will give me nicer and faster prints. What do you think?
Hi can you link to the bed leveling adjustment nob that you've printed (the big blue gear under your print bed) ? Thanks !
Here is my problem..I am unable to adjust screw 4 (right corner) from my perspective . Nozzle holds paper very hard and I cannot move paper no matter what side I roll screw clockwise -anticlockwise. Nothing happens . Paper just doesn’t move ..
That's bloody fantastic!
Thanks +Uncle Jessy good to see other STL's kicking around Cheers, JAYTEE
Hey Uncle Jessy! I have a Creality CR-10 S5 Plus and no matter what I do when I go to level the bed the right side is VASTLY off (mainly the front right corner). It seems like no amount of adjusting, moving, or otherwise seems to fix this. It's driving me crazy and I'm at a loss as to what to do. Do you have any suggestions?
Where did you get the ultrabase for the cr10???
My wheels are falling off if I try to spin them, it won’t get to the level I need without the wheel falling off. Any tips?
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
I realize your video is older now but still good. I have a different question about leveling. I have a duel extruder printer. It’s called a Klick N Print. Think rip off of an older makerbot. Is there anything to help ensure both printheads are the same distance from the bed?
Thanks. Unfortunately I don’t have much experience with dual extruder machines. For my raise3D (before I removed the 2nd extruder) I used a business card to make sure each was the same height. No idea if that helps at all or not.
@@UncleJessy I think the hard part about this is the variance in assembly of each extruder unit. I was thinking about printing a Jig to ensure the distance was equal and did not very when tightening parts down but the best i found so far was to drop both units to the bed with a thin card like you mentioned, hold them down and tighten their heights up. Then it's pretty close.
@@tuskawilla this is my thinking too. Make sure the bed itself is level, then drop both hotends so they touch the surface (ideally something pretty uniform in thickness so id you have a metal ruler or long feeler gauge that's great - then clamp them down, and recheck that the friction with the surface is still equal on both nozzles.
Very good tip. Do have a question though. Have gotten several suggestions for this but it never hurts to get more. I have been battling the 400% scales print of Bullet Bill for the last week. Always starts off great but once I hit the 70ish hour mark my leveling knobs vibrate completely off of the printer. I have since tried using Teflon tape on the screws and it seems to do ok but I still have issues with some of them vibrating loose. Have tried the full print twice and am now just doing pieces and gluing together. Any ideas on the vibration issue and the leveling knob issue?
Hey Jesse iv tried every leveling technique possible i get it going then a print or two later its unleveled again! I'm in desperate need for help to know whats going on with my bed please help
looking at the new firmware with mesh level. seems that could really get things dialed in
Why do you disable steppers?
I'm using a CR-10 V2.
My prints are not centered. I don't think this is an issue with my slicer because the default gcode files print the same way. When it's trying to print it does jutter/skip on the x/y axis.
Also, I cannot level my printer with the paper method because my leveling screws on the bottom of the heated plate are not adjusting the plate close to the nozzle, the adjusting screws are actually screwing off all together..
Same with me... had any luck since then?
@@sweetswingYT I have! I sent it back and got a CR-10S Pro V2
@@sweetswingYT in all seriousness if your outside your warranty you might want to consider getting a BL Touch Sensor upgrade for your CR-10
SamSpeaks Actually I’m waiting for a BL Touch as we speak... just got my printer today also
@@sweetswingYT nice, well good luck and happy printing
What if the lowest it goes is still not low enough for the correct space
Im having this same issue..I feel like the springs arent strong enough or something..
dude, what is he printing in the background? that looks lit
seems like a waste of filament.. but I have a problem with my bed where im unscrewing the manual gears but the bed wont go any higher seeimgly without the gear falling off and idk what to do..
try adjusting the micro switch that tells the extruder its level with the bed, I accidentally took mine off, and am having a hell of a time trying to level my bed, but I have no idea what I'm doing.
@UncleJessy
very good videos mate,that trick it works for cr10s pro?
Do you use this file on your Raise3d N2 Plus? I've struggled to get my Raise3D N2 plus bed level but I love everything else about this printer. Too many screws!
troy im sure im late by now but messing with all the screws on that printer can take a while focus on the corners first and as you move only adjust as you see that printer for me has been a money pit nightmare I wouldn't give it away to my worse enemy $5000 about so far in needed parts and even upgrades thinking it would improve quality my delta qq and cr10 mini kill n2+ everytime stock
Nice. Great test file and tip.
where can I get parts for my Cr-105s need to replace y motor
what if you cant move your leveling knobs anymore cause they bottomed out?
A good trick you can try is move all 4 knobs as tight (bed as low) as it will go. Then start from there. Alternatively you can add washers between the bolt and springs under the bed if you need to add more space so that it presses more. Not sure if that made sense 🤣
Works beautifully, thanks
I cant level mine, its always printing to the right and I have to do it after every print. Its so annoying!!
Yibambe!
Yibambe!
Sorry about the failed print. Hold Fast! Hold Strong!
Thank you so much for this!
How much drag are we talking about?
more drag is better imo..a closer nozzle equals better adhesion of your print...
So while neat, ppl like me using an S5 can’t adjust on the fly, the dials are in such an inconvenient location on all 4 ends that you’ll just bump into the bed as it goes.
tried this EXACT download and the printed pattern that came out was NOTHING like the image in cura.........WTF?!
Did you select the right file
I cannot imagine leveling my bed "on the fly" while it's actually printing. Madness, I tell you! But in all seriousness, I need some kind of mesh-ABL, because my bed appears to be very irregular, every mirror I've tried is higher in the middle than at the corners.
This guy did a video about "fixing" a warped or bowed bed.
th-cam.com/video/0j9fa86jiv0/w-d-xo.html
Yes,but only after you get it best you can using paper method... it is tricky if you build surface is not perfectly flat regardless of your leveling methods imo..
That print on the right looks like a Benzite having a realllly bad day.
Can that do dual extrusion
Dre Dre nope but they have a new unit coming out that will
Uncle Jessy crx
The guys name is arifsethi and also show how the thing works in creality too please
Your wife doesn't need that job anyway lol
Be careful with this file if you are using a non standard fan set up! I'm using the Petsfang V2 and It ran into my bed clips!
I use a piece of brass shim stock .004 inches thick or equivilent to 0.1 mm thick. For me it takes away some of the feel of the paper. How much drag is too much or not enough. either the brass slides under without the bed or hotend moving or one moves meaning the gap is slightly small
Been having a bunch of trouble
Good news, she got the job :p
two things ! man. Never use your wife's resume to level the bed unless you divorced. You will regret for life. Live leveling has injury potential. Refrain from it.
Truer words have never been said before.
Thank you!
What if my printer is at the lowest it can be and it is still to tall
Keep letting screws out. It'll raise the bed up higher. Sometimes they come super tightened down.
Why did your videos stop showing up on my feed?
Oh no! Say it ain’t so?!?
Yeah for the last month I thought you haven't posted anything
This saved me
your screws look different than the ones that it comes with
He made them by himself
Informational 🤔
Never knew existed 😐
Hi
удачи
Haha u have baby hands
You talk too much
You burnout too much 😬🤘
@@UncleJessy I dont care about 10 min of bullshit just get to the video already
THATJDMGUY oh man then you’ll totally love my other videos 🤣😂
@@UncleJessy lol
pffff did not work... my printer is still not levelt properly.....