I had recently done this in my m113 project as well. I dropped something on my intake and cracked the upper half, but I had another bad intake with a cracked bottom half so I Frankenstein’d them together to make 1 good one
2:07 I've heard they are magnesium but when I've tested them with vinegar (top and bottom halves) they don't react at all. That makes me think they are aluminum. I could be wrong though and maybe it varies by year or perhaps the magnesium has some sort of coating or alloy mix that doesn't react. 3:13 Is that dyno sheet posted up somewhere for viewing? 23:00 I wonder why they have that vacuum chamber instead of just using the vacuum in the rest of the manifold. Does it hold vacuum a little longer than the rest of the manifold at full throttle? That might help slow down the activation of the variable runner length flaps for a bit longer. Or is it for some completely other reason?
If it is not magnesium i dont now what it is very hard. And for aluminum it feels to thin. That dyno sheets i found on Facebook. When i put in on the dyno i will make sure to show the difference . Maybe on full throttle the airflow is not a very high vacuum. So it can be that the vacuum in the manifold is not enough to control the actuator at every moment
Can be but magnesium is has also aluminum in it . The sheet i have somewhere but not online. The chamber is just as a capacity chamber. If you go full throttle there is a low vacuum in the intake .and maybe not enough that let the valve switch
interested to see what you do with the vacuum chambers and how using the other ports will behave, I chose to just use the existing port and exit just with upgraded to 1/8 fuel rated line and a 3/8 hose piece cut to the same size at the little rubber factory piece, much tighter fit than factory. I then sealed all of it in that spot and silicone the outside of the connection as well.
I leave the oem throttle body . I have 3 " piping and intercooler so upgrading the throttle body will not help because of the rest of the system is still smaller
Could you remove the flaps and all of the "intestines" and put it back together? Would it actually make any gains over OEM restrictive airflow? Kind of like gutting the restrictive OEM airbox... Thanks. Please keep posting these great videos, your build is awesome!
There is a possibility to remove the flaps. And the mechanism. There are 2 stainless steel screws in the flaps connected to the shaft. I have tried to remove them. But did not want to damage them. So i left them in. I think the shaft bushings are a sort of hard plastic. The quality is pretty good. I have seen some dyno sheets in the past about the torque and hp curve between short and long routing . And it is really making a difference . It is really good in compensation for not have VVT cams. If you dont want to use the double routing intake. I would go with ITB's. Will sound awesome and better to tune for your benefits. With faster change possibility of the long plenums
@@JMSpeedshop Agreed. I have looked it up and it seems awesome... Please have patience with me I am/was a Mercedes-Benz OEM mechanic (translation we just replace parts with OEM ones XD). I have a W211 E500 with M113 engine and am interested in improving the restrictive OEM airflow these engines have. You have some wonderful ideas and skills and I am looking forward to your next video! Greetings from Zagreb!
I had recently done this in my m113 project as well. I dropped something on my intake and cracked the upper half, but I had another bad intake with a cracked bottom half so I Frankenstein’d them together to make 1 good one
Perfect 👍
2:07 I've heard they are magnesium but when I've tested them with vinegar (top and bottom halves) they don't react at all. That makes me think they are aluminum. I could be wrong though and maybe it varies by year or perhaps the magnesium has some sort of coating or alloy mix that doesn't react.
3:13 Is that dyno sheet posted up somewhere for viewing?
23:00 I wonder why they have that vacuum chamber instead of just using the vacuum in the rest of the manifold. Does it hold vacuum a little longer than the rest of the manifold at full throttle? That might help slow down the activation of the variable runner length flaps for a bit longer. Or is it for some completely other reason?
If it is not magnesium i dont now what it is very hard. And for aluminum it feels to thin.
That dyno sheets i found on Facebook. When i put in on the dyno i will make sure to show the difference .
Maybe on full throttle the airflow is not a very high vacuum. So it can be that the vacuum in the manifold is not enough to control the actuator at every moment
@@JMSpeedshop 👍
@@JMSpeedshop The spec-sheet for the M113 engine says that the intake manifold is magnesium.
Maybe it's a high mag aluminum alloy. There are many types used in all kinds of industry.
Can be but magnesium is has also aluminum in it . The sheet i have somewhere but not online. The chamber is just as a capacity chamber. If you go full throttle there is a low vacuum in the intake .and maybe not enough that let the valve switch
interested to see what you do with the vacuum chambers and how using the other ports will behave, I chose to just use the existing port and exit just with upgraded to 1/8 fuel rated line and a 3/8 hose piece cut to the same size at the little rubber factory piece, much tighter fit than factory. I then sealed all of it in that spot and silicone the outside of the connection as well.
I think for you this will work pretty good. But when boosting the engine i doubt it will hold
Thank you
Great video
Is m113 4.3 intake manifold same as 5.0 and 5.5 ??
Yes
That manifold looked very surprised at the end lol
Keep up the good work !💯
Thanks 👍
Do you plan to upgrade trottle body? As i know trottle body from newer 550 engines fits on M113 with minor manifold modifications. 74 mm vs 82 mm...
I leave the oem throttle body . I have 3 " piping and intercooler so upgrading the throttle body will not help because of the rest of the system is still smaller
@@JMSpeedshop
Agree :)
Is the wire connections the same or do they need to be moved around?
@@TheInsaneShecklador
i'll do that mod on my 113 very soon and will report. Now i have to clarify the details.
@@W210Garage 👍
Is it possible to buy new vacuum hose?. Mine is broken :/
Not sure.you have to check the part numbers
i need to get a new manifold for my m113.
Could you remove the flaps and all of the "intestines" and put it back together? Would it actually make any gains over OEM restrictive airflow? Kind of like gutting the restrictive OEM airbox... Thanks. Please keep posting these great videos, your build is awesome!
There is a possibility to remove the flaps. And the mechanism. There are 2 stainless steel screws in the flaps connected to the shaft. I have tried to remove them. But did not want to damage them. So i left them in.
I think the shaft bushings are a sort of hard plastic. The quality is pretty good.
I have seen some dyno sheets in the past about the torque and hp curve between short and long routing . And it is really making a difference . It is really good in compensation for not have VVT cams.
If you dont want to use the double routing intake. I would go with ITB's. Will sound awesome and better to tune for your benefits. With faster change possibility of the long plenums
@@JMSpeedshop Agreed. I have looked it up and it seems awesome... Please have patience with me I am/was a Mercedes-Benz OEM mechanic (translation we just replace parts with OEM ones XD). I have a W211 E500 with M113 engine and am interested in improving the restrictive OEM airflow these engines have. You have some wonderful ideas and skills and I am looking forward to your next video! Greetings from Zagreb!
Sound Nice w211 💪
@@JMSpeedshop so very interesting to dive into areas no one covers . Really enjoy your posting videos.
Thanks👍
What's the purpose of the vacuum chamber?
Having vacuum to control the actuator for the flaps in the plenum
Wow! Nice work.
Thanks
First!
O yeah 😎💪