Great video thanks loads for the detailed information. I may change out my ESC because it is a bit jumpy low end. I've watched some of your micro crawler stuff to and they were also really helpful. Many thanks. ☺️
Very detailed review but something crucial for me is missing. I don't undrestand why You didn't took simple ruler and measure width, lenght and wheelbase. I want to use this chassis for 1:10 UAZ469.
Because this is given in the description of the car ;-) Wheelbase: 200 mm Width (tire outer - outer): 155 mm Width axle (shaft): 144 mm Width 12 mm hex out-out/in-in: 128/120 mm Lenght with bumbers ca. 330 mm Lenght frame w/o bumpers ca. 290 mm Frame width (chassis rails): 55 mm
Hi, congratulations for the beautiful channel. I love! I'm about to buy the ftx outback ranger xc 1/16 and I wanted to know if it's exactly like your rgt 136161 of this video. Thank you!
Excellent review! Thank you! I like the chassis, but I think that jerky drag brake burned up the brushes in my motor. Big arc/spark every time that drag brake kicks in. Switched to 1060 ESC to get rid of drag brake but too late. Motor slowed and then stopped and brush fragments fell out. You can dismount motor without removing c-clip. That plastic gear shaft is held on with a set screw (grub) right at the motor mount. You have to turn that shaft so that the grub lines up with an indention in the motor mount so that your hex driver lines up with and seats with the grub so that you can loosen and remove it. Once plastic gear shaft is removed, remove two philips screws to open reduction gear box. Then remove two hex screws to remove motor. Pinion gear is press fitted making it difficult to use standard 370 motor. And I cannot find exact replacement motor anywhere. It is unfortunate when a good chassis is not supported with replacement parts and cannot accommodate generic parts...
OK, thanks for the information! Did not play around with it a lot since then, too many projects here. But plan to make it a "mud truck" somewhen... like especially 12 mm hex which makes it easy to use some 1.55 metal beadlock wheels. What I dislike most is the bad low speed control.
@@mic8654 Yes! I found a replacement motor-reduction gearbox combination. It is not an exact match. It may be better or worse than the original, depending upon your needs. Amazon has a variety of motor-reduction gearbox combinations. Look for the 25mm diameter motors, not the 37mm motors. The 37mm motors are more like the 540 motor. The 25mm motor is exactly the 370 motor. I chose the 12V/1000rpm version. It was the fastest one that I could find. But it is still half the speed of the original. Of course, that means twice the torque of the original... if you like that sort of thing!...
@@mic8654 The dimensions are exactly the same. But the "D" shaft is a little bit too long. So you will have to cut it with bolt cutters. And, of course you must solder your own wires...
Thanks for the awesome review. I am new to crawling and was considering this as my first vehicle. I was wondering if there is an ESC option that will have good low speed control, crawling AND drag brake? Also, would there be one available that you could use a channel to activate/deactivate drag brake? Thanks
Of course there are such options, for example the Hobbywing Quicrun 1080... and many further brushed crawler ESCs. Normally you cannot switch on/off drag brake by remote control, but I guess there is an (expensive, big) Castle Creation ESC, that can do it (not totally sure, you'll have to check this).
@@donaldsneffe thank you, I'll look into this, also sorry, if I'd want to upgrade the remote controller, what would you recommend that would be future proof in case I really get into this and need it to work well with more vehicles. Thanks for the help
@@raymonddekrielen3030 Controller is "religion" ;) The radio coming with this truck is totally fine, a DumboRC, with receiver with lightcontroller. If you want a radio that has model memory for several models there are a ton of options and you can spend 50 bucks to many hundreds. I do have a Flysky GT3C and a Flysky Noble for cars and a Spektrum DX9 Black for helis, planes, ... and am very happy with all of those. Others will tell you "buy Futaba, buy Sanwa, ..." probably ok, too (but expensive). I do not want Spektrum for my cars because receivers are very expensive, That is why I love my Flysky GT3C, because you'll get receivers for less than 5 bucks (in promotions). Flysky Noble receivers are also more expensive. If you do not want to spend a Fortune, I would highly recommend you take a look into the Flysky GT5 (which is also sold as Turnigy GT5 by Hobbyking and as Absima CR6P and Reely GT6 here in Europe). I personally do not have it but it is a top notch radio for the price and everyone who uses it loves it, it is available at local warehouses of BG and HK ( www.banggood.com/custlink/mKmv5aiurB , hobbyking.com/de_de/turnigy-gt5-6ch-2-4ghz-afhds-2a-surface-radio-w-gt5-receiver.html?affiliate_code=PREBYDYCUEBOAHL&_asc=8333171619&___store=de_de ). The Flysky GT3C is probably too complicated for a beginner (you can upgrade it to 8 channels), the Flysky Noble is supercool but more than twice of the price of the GT5. I do have videos about those radios on my channel. But if you want to get local support by your dealer, maybe buy a Spektrum, and if you have a lot of money, Futaba ;) A further cheap option for a multi-model car radio is the Hobby Porter HP007 ( www.banggood.com/custlink/KGvDqnqB7M ). People are very happy with this radio, there are a couple of reviews on TH-cam (GCMRacing1, RcReview), it is also sold by local shops in Canada. But the radio coming with the RGT is also really good, awsome for the price, DumboRC radio - people love those radios (but they do not have multi-model). The receiver has an integrated lightcontroller. I would stick with this radio for the beginning, it is totally fine. There are a ton of reviews of DumboRC radios on YT (I also made some). If you change radio, you will loose the light control function (need an additional light controller).
@@donaldsneffe Hi again. I've had this crawler for a week now and it is absolutely a blast! I am keen to get the 1080 ESC as the really low down speed and braking on descents can be better. If you don't mind me asking, would I need to change anything else in the car (motor/battery?) to be compatible with the 1080? Or can I just upgrade the ESC? Thanks
No, then wire would be hot, too. Check drivetrain if it is spinning freely. Maybe you "bash" too much, if you run fast for a longer periode the motor will get hot. What is "hot"? If you still can touch it it is ok.
@@donaldsneffe i change the motor...swap metal gearbox single speed motor to c34km gearbox...that motor have large toque...but fast hot...i use 30a cheap esc with 2s lipo use jst connector...my setup drivetrain everything in good... im play 1-2min,that motor got really hot...esc all part not hot...i thing coz that jst wire to small mybe...i have no idea what to do...
@@jackvivek5334 I do not think the wires are too thin. What wires do you use? If the wires are too thin, the wires will get hot, too, and plugs. Maybe it is the wrong motor for this setup. Change back to original gearbox and test...
They are 60 mm (about 57 mm center eye - center eye). You can use them on WPLs, but non of those shocks (there are also a lot of shocks for WLToys in this size class) will be a simply swap out, you will have to tinker, make your own mounts.
Banggood is no China mess. They will pay VAT and so you will not have to pay customs here in EU. Furthermore you will always get discounts. My favourite China shop by far.
This video makes me lean more towards more legit surpass 80A plus esc, instead of the esc you review in best crawler esc, that no one knows, which looks like surpass, but comes with unknown programming card with many more settings than surpass. The suspected better quality and repeatable performance from one unit to another is making me lean towards surpass, which is more expensive and no card in the box
Great video thanks loads for the detailed information. I may change out my ESC because it is a bit jumpy low end. I've watched some of your micro crawler stuff to and they were also really helpful. Many thanks. ☺️
Very detailed review but something crucial for me is missing. I don't undrestand why You didn't took simple ruler and measure width, lenght and wheelbase. I want to use this chassis for 1:10 UAZ469.
Because this is given in the description of the car ;-)
Wheelbase: 200 mm
Width (tire outer - outer): 155 mm
Width axle (shaft): 144 mm
Width 12 mm hex out-out/in-in: 128/120 mm
Lenght with bumbers ca. 330 mm
Lenght frame w/o bumpers ca. 290 mm
Frame width (chassis rails): 55 mm
thanks for the super detailed review, really appreciate it!
Seems like it just needs to be geared down a little bit? Can you add a smaller pinion and adjust the gear mesh on this?
ESC does have super bad low speed modulation. Gearing down could improve this slightly, but not make it good.
@@donaldsneffe hmmm, yeah maybe a better esc then. I have one of these come if the mail.. thanks for the thorough review!
Hi, congratulations for the beautiful channel. I love!
I'm about to buy the ftx outback ranger xc 1/16 and I wanted to know if it's exactly like your rgt 136161 of this video.
Thank you!
Thank you!
Sorry, I don't know for sure, because I don't have it. But checked it .. seems to be exactly the same truck.
@@donaldsneffe thx!!!!
Excellent review! Thank you! I like the chassis, but I think that jerky drag brake burned up the brushes in my motor. Big arc/spark every time that drag brake kicks in. Switched to 1060 ESC to get rid of drag brake but too late. Motor slowed and then stopped and brush fragments fell out. You can dismount motor without removing c-clip. That plastic gear shaft is held on with a set screw (grub) right at the motor mount. You have to turn that shaft so that the grub lines up with an indention in the motor mount so that your hex driver lines up with and seats with the grub so that you can loosen and remove it. Once plastic gear shaft is removed, remove two philips screws to open reduction gear box. Then remove two hex screws to remove motor. Pinion gear is press fitted making it difficult to use standard 370 motor. And I cannot find exact replacement motor anywhere. It is unfortunate when a good chassis is not supported with replacement parts and cannot accommodate generic parts...
OK, thanks for the information!
Did not play around with it a lot since then, too many projects here.
But plan to make it a "mud truck" somewhen... like especially 12 mm hex which makes it easy to use some 1.55 metal beadlock wheels.
What I dislike most is the bad low speed control.
Hi, were you able to find a different motor?
@@mic8654 Did not search for it, my motor is fine. Problem is ESC for low speed control.
@@mic8654 Yes! I found a replacement motor-reduction gearbox combination. It is not an exact match. It may be better or worse than the original, depending upon your needs. Amazon has a variety of motor-reduction gearbox combinations. Look for the 25mm diameter motors, not the 37mm motors. The 37mm motors are more like the 540 motor. The 25mm motor is exactly the 370 motor. I chose the 12V/1000rpm version. It was the fastest one that I could find. But it is still half the speed of the original. Of course, that means twice the torque of the original... if you like that sort of thing!...
@@mic8654 The dimensions are exactly the same. But the "D" shaft is a little bit too long. So you will have to cut it with bolt cutters. And, of course you must solder your own wires...
So it's a crawler for the price of the radio........ that it comes equipped with, in the box. So the crawler is for free :-)
Thanks for the awesome review. I am new to crawling and was considering this as my first vehicle. I was wondering if there is an ESC option that will have good low speed control, crawling AND drag brake? Also, would there be one available that you could use a channel to activate/deactivate drag brake? Thanks
Of course there are such options, for example the Hobbywing Quicrun 1080... and many further brushed crawler ESCs.
Normally you cannot switch on/off drag brake by remote control, but I guess there is an (expensive, big) Castle Creation ESC, that can do it (not totally sure, you'll have to check this).
@@donaldsneffe thank you, I'll look into this, also sorry, if I'd want to upgrade the remote controller, what would you recommend that would be future proof in case I really get into this and need it to work well with more vehicles. Thanks for the help
@@raymonddekrielen3030 Controller is "religion" ;)
The radio coming with this truck is totally fine, a DumboRC, with receiver with lightcontroller.
If you want a radio that has model memory for several models there are a ton of options and you can spend 50 bucks to many hundreds.
I do have a Flysky GT3C and a Flysky Noble for cars and a Spektrum DX9 Black for helis, planes, ... and am very happy with all of those. Others will tell you "buy Futaba, buy Sanwa, ..." probably ok, too (but expensive).
I do not want Spektrum for my cars because receivers are very expensive, That is why I love my Flysky GT3C, because you'll get receivers for less than 5 bucks (in promotions). Flysky Noble receivers are also more expensive.
If you do not want to spend a Fortune, I would highly recommend you take a look into the Flysky GT5 (which is also sold as Turnigy GT5 by Hobbyking and as Absima CR6P and Reely GT6 here in Europe). I personally do not have it but it is a top notch radio for the price and everyone who uses it loves it, it is available at local warehouses of BG and HK ( www.banggood.com/custlink/mKmv5aiurB , hobbyking.com/de_de/turnigy-gt5-6ch-2-4ghz-afhds-2a-surface-radio-w-gt5-receiver.html?affiliate_code=PREBYDYCUEBOAHL&_asc=8333171619&___store=de_de ).
The Flysky GT3C is probably too complicated for a beginner (you can upgrade it to 8 channels), the Flysky Noble is supercool but more than twice of the price of the GT5. I do have videos about those radios on my channel.
But if you want to get local support by your dealer, maybe buy a Spektrum, and if you have a lot of money, Futaba ;)
A further cheap option for a multi-model car radio is the Hobby Porter HP007 ( www.banggood.com/custlink/KGvDqnqB7M ). People are very happy with this radio, there are a couple of reviews on TH-cam (GCMRacing1, RcReview), it is also sold by local shops in Canada.
But the radio coming with the RGT is also really good, awsome for the price, DumboRC radio - people love those radios (but they do not have multi-model). The receiver has an integrated lightcontroller. I would stick with this radio for the beginning, it is totally fine. There are a ton of reviews of DumboRC radios on YT (I also made some). If you change radio, you will loose the light control function (need an additional light controller).
@@donaldsneffe Thank you so much for taking the time to help and all the information
@@donaldsneffe Hi again. I've had this crawler for a week now and it is absolutely a blast! I am keen to get the 1080 ESC as the really low down speed and braking on descents can be better. If you don't mind me asking, would I need to change anything else in the car (motor/battery?) to be compatible with the 1080? Or can I just upgrade the ESC? Thanks
my motor really fast hot...that coz wire so small?
No, then wire would be hot, too. Check drivetrain if it is spinning freely. Maybe you "bash" too much, if you run fast for a longer periode the motor will get hot. What is "hot"? If you still can touch it it is ok.
@@donaldsneffe i change the motor...swap metal gearbox single speed motor to c34km gearbox...that motor have large toque...but fast hot...i use 30a cheap esc with 2s lipo use jst connector...my setup drivetrain everything in good... im play 1-2min,that motor got really hot...esc all part not hot...i thing coz that jst wire to small mybe...i have no idea what to do...
@@jackvivek5334 I do not think the wires are too thin. What wires do you use? If the wires are too thin, the wires will get hot, too, and plugs. Maybe it is the wrong motor for this setup. Change back to original gearbox and test...
@@donaldsneffe yes ...mybe that motor cant use for c34 gearbox...i change original motor its not to hot
How big are the shocks please? Could they be used on wpl or are they too long?
They are 60 mm (about 57 mm center eye - center eye).
You can use them on WPLs, but non of those shocks (there are also a lot of shocks for WLToys in this size class) will be a simply swap out, you will have to tinker, make your own mounts.
I think that while this isn’t metal it is much better than metal in its own way.
Frame does not flex a lot, but links are quite flexible...
At like 48min does anyone know how to make the circle ring halo lights work ?
You the man... good info
Can you change firmware on the esc somehow?
No
Rgt has pretty competent, working, updated website, so no need to rely on china stores websites mess
Banggood is no China mess. They will pay VAT and so you will not have to pay customs here in EU. Furthermore you will always get discounts. My favourite China shop by far.
This video makes me lean more towards more legit surpass 80A plus esc, instead of the esc you review in best crawler esc, that no one knows, which looks like surpass, but comes with unknown programming card with many more settings than surpass. The suspected better quality and repeatable performance from one unit to another is making me lean towards surpass, which is more expensive and no card in the box
Hobbywing ESCs are better than Surpass ESCs.
The price is too much but way better than WPL driveline. Some good = some bad.
Never ever! Lol
To much expensive then the wpl or MN model!
I run this for 1week and the spur gear was broken damn it's wasting money!!