25 Tips on buying a used motorcycle : (Top 25 things to look for part 1)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
- A very detailed upload in 2 parts helping you know what to look for when buying a used motorcycle .
If you appreciate my uploads and feel they help you, feel free to buy me a cuppa. Thanks. ☺
www.buymeacoffee.com/roadcraftnd
Time codes as follows...
0:07 for Crash damage
0:52 for wheel alignment
1:05 for Paintwork condition
2:33 for steering
3:42 for suspension
4:25 for fork seals
5:05 for brake discs and pads
6:44 for service history
6:58 for tyres
8:51 for tyres part two
9:24 for chain and sprockets
Roadcraft Nottingham is a UK motorcycle school which was established in March 1989.
I am a fully qualified professional motorcycle instructor of 39 years and offer motorcycle riding tips and tips on riding a motorcycle for the first time all the way up to advanced riding.
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Great video, i'll add with tyres, check how hold they are, I was caught out with my K4 GSXR 600, tyres looked fine, rear was slightly squared off but not too bad, bike was mint though, tyres were 10 years old, way past their prime, all tyres have a date, it's a four digit code in an oval circle, if it's 2617 for example, the tyre was made in 26th week of 2017.
Nice addition there. Thanks
Hi Russ, just an extra point about the tyres, also check the age of them. If they are older than 5 years from the manufacturer's date on the side wall then they are illegal. If so you could negotiate a better price.
On a separate personal note, I just wanted to thank you for all your help over the years. I'm a UK expat living in Greece and I got my first motorcycle licence here at the age of 30. A late starter! Unfortunately the level of training given here is very low and the testing system is actually corrupt. So as a new rider at the age of 30 (10 years ago) and with minimal training I didn't feel confident whatsoever. So I followed your channel intently and I learnt a lot more than I had ever been taught here. You have definitely contributed to me being a safer and a more competent rider. I still watch your videos as I feel that we should never stop learning and practising. Complacency kills. Thank you.
You sir are a wizard. Channels full with great and informative content! As a new rider I'm upset I didn't find this earlier. Cheers.
Thank you Russ .. appreciate the upload
You're very welcome
Very informative. Thank u!
You're welcome
Quality content Russ, some helpful reminders there.
Thanks. ☺
Very useful thanks Russ
You're welcome. ☺
Thank you SO much for also including pictures and short videos of how it looks like when pieces are bad or good. Looking forward to part 2 :) :) :)
You're welcome and thanks for the comment
amazing video
Very useful. I look forward to part two.
Thanks. It'll be up a week on Wed
Great vid some good tips there mate thanks
Thanks for watching
Hi Rcn, more good advice and look forward to the next vid Paul
Thanks Paul
When looking at a motorcycle (or car) on a sunny day, please take note that there will always be a slight difference in the colour between metal and plastic parts.
nice one...
Cheers
Bought a 2000 Yamaha TDM 850 last month, 22k on the clock, no paperwork at all but one owner from new. Came with 12 months MOT. He had it for 20 years so not much can go wrong. You’d think!
So far cost me £700 in repairs and servicing. For a bike that was supposed to have been serviced 3 weeks prior, the air filter was pitch black and the chain was slack and manky to name a few points. The tyre had a slow puncture, which must have been pumped up on test drive day. Don’t know how it passed the MOT without advisories. Cowboys everywhere.
Fantastic! Just as I'm comparing different bikes after a foreign driver on the wrong side of the road killed my street triple and damn near killed me! Good timing
Hope your OK
All good things to look for and if possible take someone along who is knowledgeable about bikes.
Good addition, two heads are better than one.
Awesome
Thanks
No never! Surely not going to sell the Pan? 😀 Useful advice. 👍
They're gonna bury that thing with me 😂
@@RoadcraftNottingham I thought the same but eventually sold mine, just wasn't using it and I really don't miss the weight!!
@@roadwarrior8560 I feel ya there. ☺
Great stuff
You’ve been quiet of late
How about another video on your 650 Turbo
I have some uploads already done to release but I'm sure we could have another ride on the turbo. ☺
The first thing to check is "if it's a red PanEuro, if not chuck it into the lake and look for a red Pan instead."
All good advice, but what about checking the condition of the nut that hold on to the handle bars?
Hey! That's one of my sayings lol. The most dangerous part of the motorcycle. ☺
I would also find out what the thickness of the brake-discs should be and measure them.
Next, I always run a white rag (or paper towel) underneath the engine-block to see if there is any excessive oil-leakage.
Particular important also around shaft-drives (behind the rubbers)
Also bring a good flashlight to peak inside the fairing-openings.
Also use your nose if you smell a very strong fuel-odour, feel if any visible fuel-lines are hard, not flexible.
Observe the brake-lines when you push the brakes, do they bulge a lot? (if so, they will need replacing)
But likely I'm ahead for part 2 ;-)
Usually the size of the lip on the disc would give you a good/rough indication of its condition. Never considered the paper thing, I just looked at the floor but good point. Thanks
@@RoadcraftNottingham Correct, the lip is a good first indication, although with some bikes the brake-calliper is "free" moveable (in rubber bushings) so that lip might not always be that predominant. (as the free movement should cause an even wear across the whole width of the disc)
The thickness is very important, and you can resort to even a tape-measure (if you know the specs of what it should be, minimum thickness) as a too thin disc will warp (especially with heavier, e.g touring-bikes and/or ABS brakes)
Another few suggestions:
If possible, bring an extra friend (especially if that friend owns a similar bike) to have extra set of eyes and ears.
Perhaps your (ex)driving instructor?
Driving instructors are not only good at observing how you drive, they also often do have a sixth sense about any motorcycle.
And, if time permits, dive onto the interweb and search of all known issues for that particular brand & model.
Granted, you often will not buy a new bike, but it is good to know beforehand if there are any known common issues with that brand/model.
Last but not least, depending on your regional differences, try to check the chassis-number & plate-registration.
See if there is any history known about accidents, insurrance-problems, etc
As some sellers will buy totalled motorcycles from insurance-companies, and then try to "repair" and "fix" to sell them.
Be aware of any indications of fraud.
BTW, quick check if any issues with ABS: at low speed try to make the rear brakes to lock-up by quickly and shortly using the rear brakes fully.
Especially with older motorcycles (with ABS) if there is any issues with the ABS pump/servo, that is 1x way to find out.
Of course only do that where there is plenty of room, safely and no other traffic around.
And if not sure of the above, consider perhaps a formal purchase-inspection. Yes, it will cost you some extra money but such inspectors are often specialists knowing all the "wrongs" of of a particular model/make'/brand and what to watch out for.
Useful video. I shall add this;
Do you like the Sellers presentation of himself and his bike and general telephone manner?
Does the Seller live in a decent neighbourhood?
Enough experience of both has saved me time and money. When I have not taken my own advice it has led to too many wasted journeys.
I agree; in fact it's the no.1 'check'! If I don't like the vibe I'm getting from the vendor then I'm not buying. (Just bought a nice G650 GS from a straightup guy who wouldn't even open the envelope to count the cash when I collected the bike.)
Gut feeling is important. There's plenty more bikes out there. Thanks for the comment
Hopefully, in time for your next video, perhaps you can help to lay to rest the brake disc warp myth. Personally, I don't care if people damage their own discs and - was I to be in the business of selling brake discs - I'd still keep my mouth shut because I'd sell more discs...
I design brake systems for industry; I do silly stuff like design a disc brake to stop a 12tonne cylinder in 3.5~4 seconds. I get four seconds from legislation but don't want to improve on it much for engineering reasons. I also design constant drag brake systems (disc based) that operate in a 'permanently applied' fashion. I've never seen a warped disc unless (on a motorbike, for instance, the "mechanic" has levered against the disc to remove a tyre or something. Finite Element Analysis shows no appreciable warping is possible in a homogeneous disc except under a couple of oddball circumstances. The resultant warp you may get is easily 'ironed out' by the brake pad applied force. If, for instance, a motorcycle disc has 0.5mm warp and it takes 5kg equivalent force to straighten it out, two things happen: the brake applied force is easily able to flatten the disc and both pads (assuming good condition, opposing pistons) will independently move within the caliper automatically to balance out the varying hydraulic pressure. The rider would never feel a thing.
What 99% of warped disc-affected motorists are complaining about is cementite deposition onto the disc surface. Motorbikes are very prone, automatic cars are very prone and manual cars (driven properly) much less prone.
Sorry for the long post. I'll get that in now...
You're on a 'spirited' ride on your fave fast, bendy road that ends at the bottom of a hill at traffic lights in a little town. During the run, your brakes can easily hit 400°C but they're normally somewhere around 200°C. Track bikes can exceed 500°C very easily. While you're rolling, air-cooling takes the heat away very quickly. However, you get to the traffic lights, decelerating from 90mph to a stop in, say, 5 seconds and entirely on your front brakes. You and the bike weigh 300kg. Your kinetic energy @90mph (we'll forget the downhill bit for convenience) is about 250,000joules. Braking is linear, so 5s stopping time = 50kW of stopping power (about 70 horsepower) spread across two flimsy little metal plates. They're going to get hot.
When you do stop, you hold the front brake for a couple of seconds while you get a foot down and do the customary jiggle. That's the moment when you've just destroyed the disc...the pads in contact with the disc, under considerable heat and pressure, release some of their carbon and and the disc takes it on and creates cementite - a form of iron carbide. Said carbide crystals are much harder than the iron or steel base material so subsequent brake use wears the disc but not the cementite and brake pulsing is felt to worsen over time. The disc is irreparably damaged (at least in terms of economy) and is said to have warped and the rider buys a new disc totally unaware he/she is the root cause of the not-a-warp problem.
Educating riders to come off the front brake just before stopping will save thousands of disc lives each year. And, hopefully, prevent the perennial warped disc rider from thinking brake discs are all crap nowadays. The only times discs do warp, is when a part of the disc is trapped under firmly applied pads and differential cooling (and cementite) start doing weird things.
Come off the front brakes, people. Hold your bike on the rear.
As long as that comment is, it makes total sense to me. I've just replaced all discs on my Jaguar XJ and I try not to hold the brakes on, on any vehicle but unfortunately, due to the road not being flat, it's unavoidable. What can we do to avoid this? Get the disc skimmed every couple of years?
@@RoadcraftNottingham Unfortunately, no. Well, you can skim the disc but cementite is typically harder than the cutting tool. Cars (like my Jag - automatic, V8...) are a bit stuck. Bikes are easy, come off the brakes and use your feet (or just the rear on a hill). Manual cars typically lose lots of energy in pumping losses in the engine when slowing down, thus protecting the discs from the worst of the heat. But auto cars that weigh a tonne (or two) are very reliant on the brakes. When you stop, after 'spirited' driving, come off the brakes and apply the parking brake if necessary. There's not much else you can do. A massive faux-pas in all circuit racing is to brake to a stop - it's almost never done and the real reason why victory laps are often performed - it's really a cooling-off period. Stopping on hot discs and holding the pressure on is a - pretty much - guaranteed way to empty your wallet.
What I do in my car is - annnoyingly - come to an almost stop a few feet short and then slowly roll (in Drive) under very little brake pressure to the stop line. If I do have to stop, I then decide if it's worth putting the handbrake on so I can release the foot pedal. My car currently has a degree of "warp" after I messed it up a bit on Hardknott Pass. My own fault and the discs will be replaced on the next service. More fool me. I do like your videos, btw.
Thankyou for that information, very helpful and thanks for the positive feedback too. ☺
Thanks Russ, I'm currently in the process of viewing a 90s yx600 radian...only 11,000miles...hasn't been dropped or damaged. Thanks for the video but would you recommend anything else when viewing this bike, as it's 20 years old. Cheers
Others have added some tips in these comments but that's generally it. My pan is 24 this year. Happy hunting. ☺
I think a good sign is if the seller has owned the bike a couple of years. Short time can mean they've bought a dud and just want to shift it. Ideal seller is an old lady who just tips down to church on her 1100 😇⛪
Yes, sometimes crosses my mind too but could also be they're making a quick buck or simply didn't like the way it rode. I do like it when they've had it a long time though
I bought a cbr1100xx several years ago privately. Turned out to need valve adjustment service, new brake disc, new stator and reg rectifier (kept running rough and dying on me), new camchain tensioner, so quite a bit of work needed. Before that I foolishly bought a used vfr800 for quite a lot on trust from a large dealer network up north. Turned out to be some incurable issue with the ecu and fingers in the electrics causing only 3 cylinders to fire. They wouldn't take it back (bastards). Moral is don't trust anyone- more often than not it'll be crooked in some way. Having done the work I'm keeping this bike but will probably go new next time. Sometimes you don't live and learn quickly enough.
Yeah, those problems are common on blackbirds. Sorry you had a bad dealer experience. 😔
Hi buddy was it you giving a lesson last Saturday? I pulled up next to you on my red Honda hornet lol
That wasn't me. My panniers are sign written.
I tend to change all serviceable parts and fluids as a matter of course.
Owners don't tend to like having their pride n joy scrutinised too much so I have a good look, softly mumble to myself a bit, tut a bit and haggle to a figure we're both happy with.
Too much damage, neglect, electrical faults or worrying noises, walk away. :)
Just seen your comment. Apologies for the delay. And yes, I agree. ☺
@@RoadcraftNottingham Good, 'cos I've been checking in every 10 mins for the last three days waiting lol
@@HepcatHarley now your life is complete... Sleep now my friend 😂
Sory, im not english, what is that of a lacked over on the paint and how do you detect it?
Thanks
Sorry, I don't understand
@@RoadcraftNottingham at 1:29, when your are talking about the paintwork, you say "the tanks will be (lacked over??)" I dont understand the words and I cant figure out what are you talking about.
And then, how do I see if the paint on the farings has that characteristic that you say it could have if it was repainted.
Hope to have explained me better :)
@@JoaoFerreira-qj4zp the word is lacquered, it's a clear paint . Hope that helps
What camera set up do you use please
It's a drift ghost s
So, what's your preferred tyre of choice for a Pan?
Good question.... I'm going to try the Bridgestone T30 on the front in a few days. Think I tried the S20 a few years ago and liked them. You?
@@RoadcraftNottingham I have always had Avon 3D Storms on mine and found them O.K. I did try a set of Bridgestone T30's on the Pan once and found it suffered from unusual tread wear on the front, didn't like the feedback from them either. The fronts on the Pan always feel better @ 38P.S.I. My VFR FI has always had Bridgestone Battlax B23'S fitted and are faultless.
I sold my ST1100 back in 2005, so I don't think my favorites (Dunlop K591 & D205) are even made anymore.
That rear fender looks like it'd appreciate some vinyl restoration. Just leave it in the sun to heat up. Spray on a cloth, wipe in. Let it stay in the sun. Wash surface clean and you'll have less risk of these brittle dry plastics cracking from a rock getting thrown from the tyre
Do you have any brand you'll recommend?
@@RoadcraftNottingham Use one without ink. Or whatever they use to blacken it artificially. The nearly transparent fluid ones in spray bottles i've tried worked equally well. My first bottle Was of the brand Alaska and cost 10 quid. The one i've been using for the last handful of years costs 5 pounds. Cheap. Branson Vinyl resfresh for outside vinyls. I think it's important that it's for exterior vinyls. Active ingredients listed on the bottle are Benzisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Methyl-2H and/or Methyl-4 (3:1)
and 1,2-benzisothiazol-3(2H)-on
Use rubber gloves. My skin definitely doesn't appreciate the chemicals. But painted fairings seem to not care whatsoever. It should also have a desirable effect on rubber and other permeable materials oilbased solids. But if it comes to rubber restoration i'll do a proper rubber treatment instead.
Warpidge...classic sabbath
😂
I used to buy used bikes, but after all the problems, failures, breakdowns, trailer rides to home... I bought a brand spanking new bike.
My new Triumph went back for warranty work 5 times so not always the best thing. ☺
@@RoadcraftNottingham My Yamaha is ok so far, 5k miles and counting... Knock on wood. :)
Old skool Russ advice.........."Do not buy a Flung Poo"
Lol, that phrase stuck did it? 😂
@@RoadcraftNottingham Flung Poo? Is that an Ali Express brand bike?
@@sail4life 😂
I'm surprised you know who hasn't down voted this yet.
They've obviously not seen it yet. Too busy trying to steal my name 😂
That YBR you're checking out is in a poor condition, I guess it's all the crap and abuse it takes from learners.
It's certainly an oldie. Just needs a little tlc