Klein Tools 11-in-1 Screwdriver - geni.us/gfNB Knipex Wire Strippers - geni.us/uVWn 3/8" Best NM Cable Connector - geni.us/aqtZWB8 DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Commercial/ Industrial Electrician here. Metal connector with the lock nut is my go to. The metal snap-ins are handy if youre adding a circuit to a mess of a J box or panel.
Homeowner here. I recently used Arlington NM94X and NM95X which are plastic and attach from either side of the box (outsider or insider) and seem sturdier than your #4 insider. The insider feature was useful for installing in my electrical panel that is drywalled into a stud bay. Also, since the knockouts in the panel knock *into* the panel, I had to use the Pro-Tip of screwing a self-tapping metal screw into the knockout and then prying it inwards.
I always use the metal locknut one. You can get the body clamped to the cable before fishing it to box if you don’t have good access. It’s a bit fiddly but doable. I gave up on the plastic ones quickly -really hard if you need to make changes later and also tough to slide on resulting in bruised knuckles when you slip
You almost said this, but it’s always good to check with your inspector on what they allow. There may be a few cases where a basic bushing is allowed, if conditions don’t allow better. Also, it’s good to read the packaging for restrictions, such as number and size of cable. Also, it’s another thing entirely if you’re working in wet locations.
I use the metal connector with lock nut in commercial. It usually matches any previous installations. I use the push-in plastic connectors in home installations.
I am a retired master electrician . You did an excellent job on this video. On the big jobs we used the screw type with lock nut because they are good and the most economical. It's all boils down to price.
Please I need some help!! Any bushings for smaller holes in sewing machine motors? The ones they use are diabolical and refuse to come out. NOT replacing them with the same type. I have to cut them out.
Electrician here. "plastic bushing" is actually a grommet and is used in different application. It's not used for romex. it's used for example with wires entering fixtures or exit signs that are mounted on the wall directly over the box. So you have protection of wires entering those devices,
Home owner here. I did not know the plush in plastic connectors existed, thanks! I generally use the older metal ones with the nut and two screw clamps, which work fine, but the plastic looks easier in some applications.
I use #8 because that is the old standard and is bomb proof, and I have never seen the others because I don't do much electrical at this point. Ones that I would NOT use are #1, #2, and #7 for the reasons you mentioned.
The plastic one that fit through from the inside look great for retrofitting where someone has used nothing. Drywall or other closing blocks from outside, but if such a scenario is found the wiring could be disconnected temporarily inside the box and the bushing installed from inside the box.
With #8 make sure you center the Romex flat in the connector. It is easy to pinch the conductor through the outer jacket when you tighten the clamp causing a short. Ask me how I know!
As someone that does 100s of outlets and switches weekly we only use the halex connectors that most people voted for. I have a helper prep boxes the same way with thoes clamp and they don't fail.
If I'm using plastic, I use those gray ratcheting ones. They work pretty well and can be removed without wrecking anything but are kind of a pain. Otherwise I use #8, most secure and easiest to change if needed.
Fellow Canuck in Yankeeland. Maybe the best Canadian invention (after Zamboni of course) is the Robertson. Torx is just an improvement on that. Robertson is the man
I used to use the standard metal saddle connector with the two screws and lock nut for years because that was the most commonly available, and the plastic style with that weird crimping block was never great. But lately I've really been liking the Arlington NM94 or Halex 27500 for wire-to-box installations. I haven't used any product for wire-from-box yet, but I should think I could just pop those same connectors into the inside of the knockout.
Sheathed Cable Connector 1 Screw - 3/8-in is the best for me, the screw locks in the wire so it doesn’t move. You can attach the cable to the connector and fish it up if space allows then lock it in from the inside of the box.
My favorite is #8. Although I've used #3 a few times when a box was mounted directly to a board spanning two ceiling joists and the wire passes through a hole in the spanner board and into the box via method #1. I've also used method #3 with a pancake box when replacing fixtures where there wasn't a junction box (this house is 100 years old so some fixtures just have wires coming out of the wall or ceiling and the fixture was wood screwed into place and the canopy of the fixture is the junction box)
this is a really nice video. You always do good stuff. Option 5 I've never seen before but will definitely look into it. I may have a specialized application for that. personally for romex I really like and use almost exclusively the option 8 lock nut ones. however, I have used the NM cable connector particularly in applications where I couldn't use the lock nut.
Technically, the "pass through" bushing is not intended for junction boxes, even though it would seem so. They are designed for metal stud penetrations.
Number 5 is great for recessed lights, you can make up your splices at chest level, then snap them into the can, then install the can. It saves your arms when doing lots of lights.
I like the nm plastic one that connect from the outside. I had a connector that inserted from the inside with a fan I bought and it was incredibly hard to pull the 12/3 Romex through it.
Nice video, very useful, thank you! I am so tired of those impossible to remove wire strain bushings on sewing machien motors. I end up so frustrated, I just cut the wire out of sheer irritation and anger. Fed up with them! Truly impossible to remove. The problem is, they are meant for bigger holes like this box, not small motor holes. So crammed in tight, no pliers can remove them. I like the metal connectors with the two screws. Now to find a smaller version for sewing machine motors, sigh.
Question: old house had a clip around the bottom edge, bringing the old grounds and “clipping” to the box. I changed the light switch, is the light switch ground, the only ground needed? Pigtailing all the grounds to the green screw on the new light switch 🤔 thanks! Awesome channel. Upgrading wafer LED lights
All I have ever used is the metal Connector. The only thing I have hatted about the Metal connectors is some times they are junk and you really have to inspect them before use because the tap that hold the Romex in can be sharp I have had them cut in to the wire. I have only had one short out on me but it was enough to make sure that I inspect every single one when I buy them and use them, Because I do not want to burn down my house LOL or some one else.
I really like that plastic one that gets pushed in from the inside of the box. Doing old work that would be awesome to have. I have been trying to find Arlington 94X connectors. They are a combination plastic fitting that can be installed either inside or outside the box. Very hard to find but it solves a lot of problems for new and old construction.
I’ve been watching your videos for quite awhile and enjoy them immensely. The one video you had on replacing just the motor assembly on your belt drive garage opener. I’m having trouble finding just the motor assembly like you had shown. My opener is a 15 or more Craftsman model. How do I keep the belt and rail assembly and upgrade the motor assembly. Vince
Funny that US boxes don't seem to come with the screw to ground the box. In Canada, you buy a metal box, it comes with the screw to connect the ground wire to the box. Seem to miss an other kind - similar to #6 - but 1-side only slips. Much better and can be put in from the inside of the box.
@@AlanTheBeast100 Metal 1900 boxes for non metallic wiring can come with a green ground screw in the rear. You have to buy the correct box for the installation you are performing.
My Favorite is whatever I can easily find in the stores. DIYer so I am not using enough to develop an attachment to them and consequently order in bulk.
@4:48 I am confused. You said what if there is drywall and we can't access that knockout ? If the box was already there, and that hole isn't used, then wouldn't the knockout tab still be in place ? And if in place, would one have to not access it by the side in the drywall, since they have to be knocked inward from the outside ? I was not aware of # 7 so I am not sure until I can experience it. As for my use, and what I have stock piled around here is # 8 There must be a lot of something I am missing, because I never saw a poll. But anyway, Thank you for posting. I do enjoy your company. Joel Walsman is awesome too.
Just to reiterate someone else’s comment, if the panel box is set in a wall you can drill a self tapping screw into the knockout, then pull the knockout into the box using the screw as leverage.
Great video! Question, can you connect bx/armored cable and romex together in junction box? What is the best way to do it? Thanks for the feedback! Keep up the great work!
Another great video Scott. I just put a 20 amp outlet in my grg and your videos helped me do it, thank you! Concerning these connectors, I like the threaded down metal version. However, I used EMT conduit to come out of the ceiling, across to the wall and down to the outlet box you are showing in this video, all external to the drywall. I used an offset connector to meet the knockout with the conduit coming down the wall. Question is: Do I still need strain relief inside the box since the Romex is loose where it enters from the connector? I’m wondering if there is some type that can thread onto the available thread of the connector after the lock ring is secured?
So which is NEC code approved? Will the home inspector be ok with the plastic or metal connector? I'm currently finishing the basement. trying to pick the right one. Also using the metal connector, you can pass through 2 Romex cables while only one through the plastic.
# 6 can be inserted from inside of a fuse box, without running wire through it. Separate it, install each side and insert screws. Great to have when finding romax not having one in fuse box.
WHERE CAN I FIND OPTION #6, THE METAL SPLIT CONNECTOR! My friend is selling his house and some doorknob installed 15 can lights with no grip connectors on the boxes. This is the only option I've seen that doesn't require re-wiring all the can lights to get the grip connectors installed
It looks like Option 4 Plastic NM Cable Connector (Insider) is out of stock, or if it is in stock, it is running pretty expensive. Does anyone know where it might be in stock at the regular low pricing?
Those plastic connectors are okay but there are much better ones out there. I use carlon's SNM12-6R/SNM34-6R They can be installed on previously installed conductors without disconnecting. They are also easier to push cables through, easier to install, rated for two cables, and are less likely to damage the cableThe following are similar: The following are similar: • Raco 4714 insider • Arlington NM94X ½" Arlington NM95X ¾" • Carlon SNM12-6R ½" Carlon SNM34-6R ¾" • Morris 21764 ½" Morris 21765 ¾" • Rack-a-tiers TT500 ½" • Dottie DRC50 ½" Dottie DRC75 ¾" • Bridgeport 616NMD ½" Bridgeport 617NMD ¾" Halex FMC 25803 ½"
the insider is the only plastic one (of the ones shown) I would use. the various brands of RC-50 is the best nonmetallic one. I've even seen one manufacturar make one that can insert from the inside or outside.
@@EverydayHomeRepairsit's a good question. they've been the go-to for nearly 30 years, here. at least on the professional side. and yeah, I don't know how many I've used the open side to fit over a wire run through a hole without any protection.
Are any of these push in connectors designed to be easily removed if the box is being turned down? Like if you pinch at a certain point it will squeeze out?
The only one easy to remove is #8, and then only if you have access to the outside of the box. The clip-in ones can usually be removed by pressing the clips, but it’s not easy and sometimes very awkward.
Plastic bushings are trade size 7/8”, not 3/8”. You do not need strain relief as long as the sheath extends a minimum 1/4” into the box and you staple the romex within 8” of the box. If you use a connector with strain relief, you must staple the romex within 12” of the box.
The metal with locknut makes no sense to me as a homeowner/DIYer. They are lots of extra hassle, and make running a new wire into it neigh impossible. Feels to me like a situation where the products have evolved, but long-timers just use what they learned. Can you all share any critical issues with the newer products that seem to accomplish the same goal, but with more flexibility on situations where they can be used easily?
It's actually a 3/8in knockout, isn't it? Just that a 3/8in knockout has a diameter of approximately 1/2in. They all seem to be based on iron pipe size (IPS).
Is there an easy way to get the ones shown around 3:20 out? I had one under my cabinet, and it took me like 5 minutes to get that bitch out w/out damaging a conducter
I don't like the plastic ones because once you push the wire in it's difficult to pull it out. I'll only use them if I have to. I prefer the last one you showed the screw in kind.
@@willschultz5452 I know but I'm still new at this and sometimes I make mistakes and I want to back it out a bit. with the other ones I can simply unscrew it and move it to where I want it.
Cost and convenience are NOT considerations. Choice of connectors is to be made by following the acceptable combinations as listed in the UL white book. If I inspected an installation and found insert bushings used to enter romex into a box, you would be redoing every j box on the job and requesting a reinspection before any walls or ceilings get closed up. This will cause unnecessary delays and possible backcharges for delays. The simple answer it to educate yourself and get it right the first time.
Trade size for a 1/2” connector is 7/8” not 3/8” and I’ve been doing electric for 30 years and all of these connectors will work depending upon application I can tell you that we like the snap in connectors because of speed but most times cost drives everything so you will get the squeeze connector with the lock rings, but don’t confuse the MC style connectors for romex connectors they are different the first one you showed was a bushing so it shouldn’t be on the list as a connector, and don’t make the rookie mistake of Overtightening your squeeze connection because that can damage the wires so if you’re new to doing this don’t tighten the connector with your drill or impact. The part in the beginning of what I said so you know electrical conduit and connections are measured with OD not ID plumbing pipe is measured with ID.
2:52 3 inches from the surface of the box??? But the box isn't even 3 inches deep. You'd need a box six inches deep to keep it three inches from the surface of the box. Yes ?
There's no mention of the requirement to have a staple on the romex within a few inches of the box. This renders the endless discussion of "strain relief" irrelevant, and gíven the circumstances is of very low importance anyway. Strain relief is relevant for extension cords but this?
I am not intending to be pedantic, but you might consider changing the name of the video. Those are not wires, they are cables, and those are not connectors, they are cable clamps, bushings or strain reliefs. I almost did not watch it because I thought it was another wire-nut vs. Wago video. Regardless, I enjoyed the video, thanks.
If it takes a ten minute video to explain how to terminate nm cable into a box, the diy-er you are trying to educate should consider using a qualified electrician. After all, what else will he do incorrectly?
Those plastic ones are cheap and cheesy. They'll probably pass inspection but they show that you don't really care. Kind of like backstabbing an outlet.
Klein Tools 11-in-1 Screwdriver - geni.us/gfNB
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3/8" Best NM Cable Connector - geni.us/aqtZWB8
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Commercial/ Industrial Electrician here. Metal connector with the lock nut is my go to. The metal snap-ins are handy if youre adding a circuit to a mess of a J box or panel.
Homeowner here. I recently used Arlington NM94X and NM95X which are plastic and attach from either side of the box (outsider or insider) and seem sturdier than your #4 insider. The insider feature was useful for installing in my electrical panel that is drywalled into a stud bay. Also, since the knockouts in the panel knock *into* the panel, I had to use the Pro-Tip of screwing a self-tapping metal screw into the knockout and then prying it inwards.
I always use the metal locknut one. You can get the body clamped to the cable before fishing it to box if you don’t have good access. It’s a bit fiddly but doable. I gave up on the plastic ones quickly -really hard if you need to make changes later and also tough to slide on resulting in bruised knuckles when you slip
This was a handy video not just for metal junction boxes but for fluorescent light fixtures. Thanks.
You almost said this, but it’s always good to check with your inspector on what they allow. There may be a few cases where a basic bushing is allowed, if conditions don’t allow better. Also, it’s good to read the packaging for restrictions, such as number and size of cable.
Also, it’s another thing entirely if you’re working in wet locations.
Great video! You would be surprised at how many DIY'ers don't know about these different types. Thanks for this!
That was a good one. Sometimes I think that I know how things work but it's great to have confirmation, and correction.
I use the metal connector with lock nut in commercial. It usually matches any previous installations. I use the push-in plastic connectors in home installations.
Best DIY teacher I know of, well done!
Thanks for the support 👍
Agreed
I am a retired master electrician . You did an excellent job on this video. On the big jobs we used the screw type with lock nut because they are good and the most economical. It's all boils down to price.
Please I need some help!! Any bushings for smaller holes in sewing machine motors? The ones they use are diabolical and refuse to come out. NOT replacing them with the same type. I have to cut them out.
@mjremy2605 try googling sowing machine parts.
A very informative video!
My go to connector is "number eight" on metal boxes, as well.
Well done, Sir!
Electrician here. "plastic bushing" is actually a grommet and is used in different application. It's not used for romex. it's used for example with wires entering fixtures or exit signs that are mounted on the wall directly over the box. So you have protection of wires entering those devices,
Home owner here. I did not know the plush in plastic connectors existed, thanks! I generally use the older metal ones with the nut and two screw clamps, which work fine, but the plastic looks easier in some applications.
Finally! I was searching for this topic a couple of months ago. Couldn’t find an answer. Thank you for pointing
I use #8 because that is the old standard and is bomb proof, and I have never seen the others because I don't do much electrical at this point. Ones that I would NOT use are #1, #2, and #7 for the reasons you mentioned.
The plastic one that fit through from the inside look great for retrofitting where someone has used nothing. Drywall or other closing blocks from outside, but if such a scenario is found the wiring could be disconnected temporarily inside the box and the bushing installed from inside the box.
Scott, this video explained exactly what I wanted to know. So glad I found it. Clear, straight-forward, easy to understand. Thank you!
That is what we are here for, thanks for the feedback 👍
Grew up as a homeowner using #8. So that is what I will stick with.
Stick with a winner 👍
With #8 make sure you center the Romex flat in the connector. It is easy to pinch the conductor through the outer jacket when you tighten the clamp causing a short. Ask me how I know!
@@thomasdragosr.841 oh yes, fast lesson.
As someone that does 100s of outlets and switches weekly we only use the halex connectors that most people voted for. I have a helper prep boxes the same way with thoes clamp and they don't fail.
If I'm using plastic, I use those gray ratcheting ones. They work pretty well and can be removed without wrecking anything but are kind of a pain. Otherwise I use #8, most secure and easiest to change if needed.
Since I moved to the US from Canada 12 years ago, this is the first reference I heard to "Robertson".
Fellow Canuck in Yankeeland. Maybe the best Canadian invention (after Zamboni of course) is the Robertson. Torx is just an improvement on that. Robertson is the man
@@timrxn5414I'm not sure that Torx is an improvement.
@@rickgilbrt an entirely reasonable point of view. I like Robinson heads but everything is torx if you’re picking up a box of deck screws. Cheers
I used to use the standard metal saddle connector with the two screws and lock nut for years because that was the most commonly available, and the plastic style with that weird crimping block was never great. But lately I've really been liking the Arlington NM94 or Halex 27500 for wire-to-box installations. I haven't used any product for wire-from-box yet, but I should think I could just pop those same connectors into the inside of the knockout.
Sheathed Cable Connector 1 Screw - 3/8-in is the best for me, the screw locks in the wire so it doesn’t move. You can attach the cable to the connector and fish it up if space allows then lock it in from the inside of the box.
My favorite is #8. Although I've used #3 a few times when a box was mounted directly to a board spanning two ceiling joists and the wire passes through a hole in the spanner board and into the box via method #1.
I've also used method #3 with a pancake box when replacing fixtures where there wasn't a junction box (this house is 100 years old so some fixtures just have wires coming out of the wall or ceiling and the fixture was wood screwed into place and the canopy of the fixture is the junction box)
this is a really nice video. You always do good stuff. Option 5 I've never seen before but will definitely look into it. I may have a specialized application for that. personally for romex I really like and use almost exclusively the option 8 lock nut ones. however, I have used the NM cable connector particularly in applications where I couldn't use the lock nut.
Technically, the "pass through" bushing is not intended for junction boxes, even though it would seem so. They are designed for metal stud penetrations.
Needed this video, we need a lot of education on different types of connectors. I've seen season journeyman botch completely sealtight connectors.
Number 5 is great for recessed lights, you can make up your splices at chest level, then snap them into the can, then install the can. It saves your arms when doing lots of lights.
I like the nm plastic one that connect from the outside. I had a connector that inserted from the inside with a fan I bought and it was incredibly hard to pull the 12/3 Romex through it.
Thanks for this. I actually did one wrong and sliced the romax right down to the bar wire. Not good when the power came back on.
Nice video, very useful, thank you! I am so tired of those impossible to remove wire strain bushings on sewing machien motors. I end up so frustrated, I just cut the wire out of sheer irritation and anger. Fed up with them! Truly impossible to remove. The problem is, they are meant for bigger holes like this box, not small motor holes. So crammed in tight, no pliers can remove them.
I like the metal connectors with the two screws. Now to find a smaller version for sewing machine motors, sigh.
What a clean and truly helpful video, thank you
Question: old house had a clip around the bottom edge, bringing the old grounds and “clipping” to the box. I changed the light switch, is the light switch ground, the only ground needed? Pigtailing all the grounds to the green screw on the new light switch 🤔 thanks! Awesome channel. Upgrading wafer LED lights
OMG, thank you soooo much for your videos. I had this very question recently. perhaps you could do a vid on connecting flexible metal conduit as well.
Good information as always. Thank you for sharing
All I have ever used is the metal Connector. The only thing I have hatted about the Metal connectors is some times they are junk and you really have to inspect them before use because the tap that hold the Romex in can be sharp I have had them cut in to the wire. I have only had one short out on me but it was enough to make sure that I inspect every single one when I buy them and use them, Because I do not want to burn down my house LOL or some one else.
Can you please share video on how to remove these connector especially option 5.
I really like that plastic one that gets pushed in from the inside of the box. Doing old work that would be awesome to have. I have been trying to find Arlington 94X connectors. They are a combination plastic fitting that can be installed either inside or outside the box. Very hard to find but it solves a lot of problems for new and old construction.
I’ve been watching your videos for quite awhile and enjoy them immensely. The one video you had on replacing just the motor assembly on your belt drive garage opener. I’m having trouble finding just the motor assembly like you had shown. My opener is a 15 or more Craftsman model. How do I keep the belt and rail assembly and upgrade the motor assembly.
Vince
15 years
THANKS SCOTT , FOR THE VIDEO EDUCATION 🧐💚💚💚
No. 8. I did not know about the wrench, though.
Yep I have the three wrench kit
The non strain plastic one is fine, you just need to use nm staples within 6 inches of the box.
Within 8”. Not 6”. You can exceed code and staple at less than 8” though. 12” if a cable clamp is used.
@@bills6946 you're right, thanks for the correction!
The size of the box is extremely limited for this exception. It's almost exclusively for
switch boxes due to the cubic inch limit
So simple, yet so useful! Probably one of the items on your checklist when buying a house but how easy is it to have these inspected?
Funny that US boxes don't seem to come with the screw to ground the box.
In Canada, you buy a metal box, it comes with the screw to connect the ground wire to the box.
Seem to miss an other kind - similar to #6 - but 1-side only slips. Much better and can be put in from the inside of the box.
@@AlanTheBeast100 Metal 1900 boxes for non metallic wiring can come with a green ground screw in the rear. You have to buy the correct box for the installation you are performing.
My Favorite is whatever I can easily find in the stores. DIYer so I am not using enough to develop an attachment to them and consequently order in bulk.
Rack-a-tiers makes another type of plastic connector. It can be inserted in either direction. Very handy.
@4:48 I am confused. You said what if there is drywall and we can't access that knockout ? If the box was already there, and that hole isn't used, then wouldn't the knockout tab still be in place ? And if in place, would one have to not access it by the side in the drywall, since they have to be knocked inward from the outside ? I was not aware of # 7 so I am not sure until I can experience it. As for my use, and what I have stock piled around here is # 8
There must be a lot of something I am missing, because I never saw a poll. But anyway, Thank you for posting. I do enjoy your company. Joel Walsman is awesome too.
There are times and angles you can get a wire and knockout there
Just to reiterate someone else’s comment, if the panel box is set in a wall you can drill a self tapping screw into the knockout, then pull the knockout into the box using the screw as leverage.
Great video! Question, can you connect bx/armored cable and romex together in junction box? What is the best way to do it? Thanks for the feedback! Keep up the great work!
Another great video Scott. I just put a 20 amp outlet in my grg and your videos helped me do it, thank you! Concerning these connectors, I like the threaded down metal version. However, I used EMT conduit to come out of the ceiling, across to the wall and down to the outlet box you are showing in this video, all external to the drywall. I used an offset connector to meet the knockout with the conduit coming down the wall. Question is: Do I still need strain relief inside the box since the Romex is loose where it enters from the connector? I’m wondering if there is some type that can thread onto the available thread of the connector after the lock ring is secured?
I don't think you're supposed to use Romex in EMC. Against most codes.
Outstanding. Great advice homes.
Would be nice to see a video on MC cable connectors
So which is NEC code approved? Will the home inspector be ok with the plastic or metal connector? I'm currently finishing the basement. trying to pick the right one. Also using the metal connector, you can pass through 2 Romex cables while only one through the plastic.
# 6 can be inserted from inside of a fuse box, without running wire through it. Separate it, install each side and insert screws. Great to have when finding romax not having one in fuse box.
WHERE CAN I FIND OPTION #6, THE METAL SPLIT CONNECTOR! My friend is selling his house and some doorknob installed 15 can lights with no grip connectors on the boxes. This is the only option I've seen that doesn't require re-wiring all the can lights to get the grip connectors installed
If you have full access from the front, #7 can also be snapped in from the inside if needed.
Is there any connector that you can add to a knockout AFTER the box is already wired, that saves you the trouble of having to undo all of the wiring?
It looks like Option 4 Plastic NM Cable Connector (Insider) is out of stock, or if it is in stock, it is running pretty expensive. Does anyone know where it might be in stock at the regular low pricing?
Great Post
# 8 is my chose
is there a bushing going through joists?
I just used the gray plastic connector. It kept coming out of the box. I went back to a clamp style.
If youre using electrical conduit to connect boxes how do you clamp the cables?
What do you do when installing a metal pancake box that's being installed FLUSH to brick (no room for connector on outside) ?
if there is already drywall, how do i hold the wire in place inside a plastic box? do i still need connectors?
Thank you for this.
Nice report. Agreed
Glad an electrician explained this
Those plastic connectors are okay but there are much better ones out there. I use carlon's SNM12-6R/SNM34-6R They can be installed on previously installed conductors without disconnecting. They are also easier to push cables through, easier to install, rated for two cables, and are less likely to damage the cableThe following are similar:
The following are similar:
• Raco 4714 insider
• Arlington NM94X ½"
Arlington NM95X ¾"
• Carlon SNM12-6R ½"
Carlon SNM34-6R ¾"
• Morris 21764 ½"
Morris 21765 ¾"
• Rack-a-tiers TT500 ½"
• Dottie DRC50 ½"
Dottie DRC75 ¾"
• Bridgeport 616NMD ½"
Bridgeport 617NMD ¾"
Halex FMC 25803 ½"
What about connecting EMT directly to a breaker box?
the insider is the only plastic one (of the ones shown) I would use. the various brands of RC-50 is the best nonmetallic one. I've even seen one manufacturar make one that can insert from the inside or outside.
Not sure why the RC50's haven't caught on in my area. I like the design and the split housing is handy for retrofitting. Thanks for the feedback!
@@EverydayHomeRepairsit's a good question. they've been the go-to for nearly 30 years, here. at least on the professional side. and yeah, I don't know how many I've used the open side to fit over a wire run through a hole without any protection.
I think that it would be beneficial if the plastic clamps would be of different colors to eliminate placement errors. 🤔
Missing a popular plastic connector called morris or NMSC connectos are used a alot in the electrical industry... Very easy saving time..
Are any of these push in connectors designed to be easily removed if the box is being turned down? Like if you pinch at a certain point it will squeeze out?
The only one easy to remove is #8, and then only if you have access to the outside of the box. The clip-in ones can usually be removed by pressing the clips, but it’s not easy and sometimes very awkward.
Plastic bushings are trade size 7/8”, not 3/8”. You do not need strain relief as long as the sheath extends a minimum 1/4” into the box and you staple the romex within 8” of the box. If you use a connector with strain relief, you must staple the romex within 12” of the box.
I’m 69, always number 8, old dog, no new tricks.
The metal with locknut makes no sense to me as a homeowner/DIYer. They are lots of extra hassle, and make running a new wire into it neigh impossible. Feels to me like a situation where the products have evolved, but long-timers just use what they learned. Can you all share any critical issues with the newer products that seem to accomplish the same goal, but with more flexibility on situations where they can be used easily?
It's actually a 3/8in knockout, isn't it? Just that a 3/8in knockout has a diameter of approximately 1/2in. They all seem to be based on iron pipe size (IPS).
Is there an easy way to get the ones shown around 3:20 out? I had one under my cabinet, and it took me like 5 minutes to get that bitch out w/out damaging a conducter
Halex non-metallic for me. Simple, easy, cheap, effective, quick. DIYer.
Use the snap in plastic ones!!!! So much easier and non conductive also!!!!
I don't like the plastic ones because once you push the wire in it's difficult to pull it out. I'll only use them if I have to. I prefer the last one you showed the screw in kind.
You are not supposed to pull the wire out, thats the idea it supposed to lock the wire in place
@@willschultz5452 I know but I'm still new at this and sometimes I make mistakes and I want to back it out a bit. with the other ones I can simply unscrew it and move it to where I want it.
Cost and convenience are NOT considerations. Choice of connectors is to be made by following the acceptable combinations as listed in the UL white book. If I inspected an installation and found insert bushings used to enter romex into a box, you would be redoing every j box on the job and requesting a reinspection before any walls or ceilings get closed up. This will cause unnecessary delays and possible backcharges for delays. The simple answer it to educate yourself and get it right the first time.
Trade size for a 1/2” connector is 7/8” not 3/8” and I’ve been doing electric for 30 years and all of these connectors will work depending upon application I can tell you that we like the snap in connectors because of speed but most times cost drives everything so you will get the squeeze connector with the lock rings, but don’t confuse the MC style connectors for romex connectors they are different the first one you showed was a bushing so it shouldn’t be on the list as a connector, and don’t make the rookie mistake of Overtightening your squeeze connection because that can damage the wires so if you’re new to doing this don’t tighten the connector with your drill or impact. The part in the beginning of what I said so you know electrical conduit and connections are measured with OD not ID plumbing pipe is measured with ID.
“Numbrr 3!!! Numbr 3!!!” - shrek! Haha
lock nut is the best
Agreed 👍
An entire video and no mention of the one most pros use, Arlington NM94. And those locknut tools are useless.
Prefer the metal with lock nut. Dont like the plastic connectors.
2:52 3 inches from the surface of the box??? But the box isn't even 3 inches deep. You'd need a box six inches deep to keep it three inches from the surface of the box. Yes ?
Minimum of 3" from where the wire enters the box
There's no mention of the requirement to have a staple on the romex within a few inches of the box. This renders the endless discussion of "strain relief" irrelevant, and gíven the circumstances is of very low importance anyway. Strain relief is relevant for extension cords but this?
You need both a clamp at the box and for new work a staple within 12 to 6 inches.
@@nyetloki Yes, but the guiding principle is restraint (from flex), not strain relief, I think.
2 screw connectors are a great way to identify that electrical work was done by a handyman, and needs to be checked thoroughly.
#8
@8:16
I am not intending to be pedantic, but you might consider changing the name of the video. Those are not wires, they are cables, and those are not connectors, they are cable clamps, bushings or strain reliefs. I almost did not watch it because I thought it was another wire-nut vs. Wago video. Regardless, I enjoyed the video, thanks.
Romex connector is the metal name for the first two metal ones. Yes NM is a cable who cares
Who said NM was not a cable. Maybe read the sentence before commenting?
@@chrishall2594
Dude, good videos. But please shorten them up. 10 minutes not needed for this message.
Who was the idiot that decided it was a good idea to call it a 3/8 fitting for a 1/2 knockout? Call them both the same. Duh
If it takes a ten minute video to explain how to terminate nm cable into a box, the diy-er you are trying to educate should consider using a qualified electrician. After all, what else will he do incorrectly?
No one knows anything on here
Those plastic ones are cheap and cheesy. They'll probably pass inspection but they show that you don't really care. Kind of like backstabbing an outlet.
#8