There's usually a sticker on the transmissions that tell you which way the shaft turns.👍Also we have owned many boats over the years,and the best thing for maintaining the isinglass windows is after cleaning them with a micro fiber towel,spray a good amount of Lemon Pledge furniture polish on them,let it set for 1 minute and wipe it off with a clean micro fiber towel. Not only does it leave a nice shine on them but it also protects them from the elements boats are subjected to.
Spent my apprentice ship calling them Split pins and cotter pins were things that held bike pedal arms on the crank ...and they still are 50 plus years later.
It gladdens the heart to see a young married couple work so well together while shafting, it really is, a rare thing these days, You have to have every confidence in your shafting partner to have a firm grip, or accidents will happen, thankfully our Gemma has a vice-like grip even with slippery hands covered in gunk, which is a novelty, but a good safety factor, she is an inspiration to all boaty ladies in that she at no time lost her grip on the huge shafts, a testimony to her expertise on shaft handling, well done Gemma, I say, Simeon must be proud of you and even now I believe he is smiling with pride, on a cautionary note the boat yard is a dangerous place so can I ask you both to be cautious while shafting, lol
While they come here and moan and groan, they are actually helping the channel with the algorithm. Every comment or thumbs up-down make youtube think more people would be interested in this video 🤣🤣
The stern tube gland nut should press on a "collar" behind which the compressible packing is arranged, usually in three rings. There is no need for packing between the nut and the collar. Also it would be a good idea to remove the bolts from the gearbox flange and shaft coupling. This will allow you to check the alignment between the engine/transmission and prop shaft. Radial alignment should be checked with a clock gauge, while axial alignment is checked with a feeler gauge between the flanges. This is best done after the boat has been returned to the water, and adjustments made with shims under the engine feet.
Always cut gland packing at 45 degrees ( like a scarf joint) also check out PTFE impregnated packing 👍, don't forget stern tube grease needs to be waterproof (silicon based) and anti seize on your prop nuts (stainless on stainless will gaul without lube, oh ere misses), a nice pair of custom made long series castlated prop nuts would have been better than lock nuts
When I worked in heavy engineering, we used a Rocol anti galling powder on stainless shafts. But they pumped hot water so a fine layer of paste should work on a boat prop. What do the shipwright professionals say?
Hi guys as a long time small boater ,I think you've found a very pretty jewel of a boat and the way you did the refurb on the props shafts and rudders was better than a lot of boatyards it was impeccable.With those two big V8's she should absolutely fly. As for the very minor imperfections in the gelcoat they should be easily fixed whether she is Epoxied or Gel coated but do it with the appropriate material for each type..With the anti fouling on and the survey do wash downs help a lot in preventing corrosion also a marine wax on the white work will make her gleam like a diamond and also protect from U/V.. You've worked so very hard and diligently on Sarinda but the occasional break has been well earned.However always remember the definition of any boat is "A hole in the water that you have to put much money to keep it afloat" and the second axiom is " Any product prefaced by the word Marine costs twice as much as a similar product for domestic use" Good luck with all your Marine endeavours ,stay safe and enjoy life as much as you can .
Just noticed you have the prop locknuts on the erong way round unfortunately. Thin nut on and torqued up to 25 to 50 percent of value ,thick nut on and torqued up fully while holding thin nut from turning sgainst force of thick nut being tightened against it. Hope this helps the project along ..
Hi guys your doing a great job , I’ve just put shaft zincs on and was told not to put them to close to the Skegss because it can stop or slow down water flow to the cutlass, bearing just what I was told 👍
Stones started in 1832 making copper nails etc. for wooden ships. They developed propellers for turbines as they were replacing the reciprocating steam engines.
as others mention the shaft zincs are best half way up the exposed shaft and can can facilitate if you need to push the shaft back for any reason in the future.Particularly when in the drink
When you cut the seal to length cut it on about a 45 degree angle rather than a strait cut, as the angle cut gives a much bigger sealing surface . Also always put any joints 180% from one another, for better sealing.
You bought a Boutari, not a dud. Still giving Simon a hand to get that lubed shaft lined up and fully inserted. Gotta like teamwork. For added comfort with ease of insertion, lube that hole. Don't want it too dry. Propellers look fantastic. Are you able to wrap some rope around the propeller to determine how well the cutter works? Guessing there is a size and type manufacturer limitation.
Cottage pins have a flat taper and a thread on the end. Used on bicycle pedals and motorbike kick start handles. Split pins stop castellated nuts from unscrewing.
I thought I'd come in on a Ron Jeremy video with all that talk 😂😂. Great they were able to repair the props. Its funny about the SD card, I know a few people having similar problems. And some people like your selves with You Tube channels too.
Personally, if I were planning on keeping her for a while I would have fitted dripless shaft seals but those will certainly do the job. She's going to be a nice boat but the fuel bill is going to be eye-watering. They did a great job on the props, I'm surprised that the bad one was even salvageable TBH. Smart move fitting line cutters BTW.
If you become interested, I'm almost sure you're packing nut wrench can be bought fairly cheaply from a Swimming pool tech supply. Called a Bulkhead Wrench for filters. They're just 1/4", sorry, about 6 mill. aluminum plate with an angle bent in handle.
Instead of a straight cut I always used to do a tapered cut, this means there is no direct channel for any leaks. Back in the day most packing was made from asbestos which is not good, so other types are now used.
Two points of advice, lap the props onto the shafts using a grinding paste as used for engine valve seats corse then fine. When you assemble the shafts and props use a copper based grease during assembly as this will make it so much easier for when you need to get the props off again which you will need to do eventually.
Nice goin m8s, impressed this end. Nice goin, weildin the knometre Gem, Simon, love the shirt Bro! If I could afford 😍🙄 Arvo Janice and Robbo. Looks like those new thingys on the shafts will do real well [heard but, not seen before]. Thanks m8s, I know I've said this before but, keep up the good work Eh!.
I know that you have already done your packing, but for future reference, instead of cutting the packing straight across, try cutting each ring at 45° (called scarfing) so that the ends of each ring overlap. You still need to stagger the joints but you will find that it works much better. Just found you by the way and you have another subscriber. I see that Gemma hasn't lost her Scouse sense of humour.
Great job. The cutter will work. Ours works great. Never heard any of the lines that we ran over get cut. One was a longline. Found pieces when we cleaned the bottom.
Great job Gemma, Simon, Family & Friends! I think you got a bargain and I hope you make many memories and enjoy her to the fullest! As always, sending my best ♥
I hope you have gave the bolts on the gearbox side of the shaft a really good squeeze or the force on the props in the water will shear the grubs and you will end up spitting out a shaft
Hi guys, wow what a good job you done. Can’t wait to see it on the water and having your two daughters with you. Having a bit of fun on the ocean together as a family. Keep up the good work love the videos Cliff from Logan city Queensland Australia 🇦🇺 from the big island. 🏝️
I use 3 zinks on each shaft. Tried using 2 on each shaft but they dont last long enough. I heat up a jar of lanolin and spread it on the drive shafts and props, lasts about 6 months.
Please don't overtighten te stuffingbox . If you do so, the glandmaterial can burn out due to frictionheat. Always allow some water to come trhough fore cooling the gland. Just a few drops per minute or so.
You guys are doing a great job, and the videos are great too by the way, and full of fun fun fun , just remember keep the anodes away from the cutlass bearing as it possibly will draw air in them and cause a void to the propeller as they need a permanent amount of water all the time with no air ok i hope this helps
Awesome work on a pretty boat, and it seems to be in very good condition, apart from the driveshaft, props, rudders and one very small little hole, I love the look of the bridge, those seats looks awesome and in very good conditions, it looks like after these "next week" work, it'll be ready to sail, perhaps you are already sailing it ! This ship was sold for quite a small price, repairing the whole drivetrain ain't cheap, but everything else looks almost perfect Good Luck on the last step for the boat (or I guess enjoy your time on it by now) !
You should cut the packing material at a 45 degree angle, not a right angle, that gives a better chance of sealing. A right angle just gives a straight shot thru to the inside. Several packings with the cuts staggered is best.
The stern gland packings look the same as the latest "Travels with Geordie" has on his boat. They have a small stepped compressor ring, between the nut you have packed and the sterntube proper. The packing goes in the sterntube proper, the compressor ring then slides down onto the packing and that big nut forces the compressor ring against the packing in the sterntube causing it to swell against the shaft, thereby creating the seal against the sea. Too tight and they will score the shaft...too loose and they will leak! The correct tension is when you get a very slow drip, one a second or thereabouts which lubricates the packing/shaft interface but does not cause heat or excessive leakage. The compressor ring is the one that spun around as Simon did up the big nut! Finally, tighten the thinner nut (painted dark blue in your boat) up towards the big nut (towards the engine end of the shaft) and lock the big nut in place. This will stop the stern tube from loosening as the shaft turns and sinking your boat! Check every now and then and adjust as needed. The rudders packing glands work exactly the same. You may have to look closely to see the compressor rings but I could see them on video so shouldn't be too hard for eagle eyed Gem!
THERE YOU GO GEMMA FOUND YOU ON YOUR NEW CHANNEL. ON YOUR NEW "HOLE IN THE WATER WHICH ONE POURS MONEY INTO". I FOLLOW YOU GUYS TO THE EDGE OF THE WORLD 🌎😎👍
@@brianbedoe8656 As I'm Welsh, I must correct to Britain and America, but as much as we feign indignation, I at least, delight in the differences, even grudgingly admitting that some Americanisms make more sense, but again, being Welsh I will blame the English and say "gwrthglocwedd!" 😜😁
Hi Guys - just watched the episode and I think the stern gland has been packed incorrectly - the easiest way to explain it is if you watch ‘Travels With Geordie’ latest episode (381) - he had the same issue as the previous owner had assembled it wrong….. Les
For getting rid of the green on the the blue canvas canopy Patio Magic is great stuff . Spray on and leave to do its stuff,helps keep green away for months afterwards too 👍
There's usually a sticker on the transmissions that tell you which way the shaft turns.👍Also we have owned many boats over the years,and the best thing for maintaining the isinglass windows is after cleaning them with a micro fiber towel,spray a good amount of Lemon Pledge furniture polish on them,let it set for 1 minute and wipe it off with a clean micro fiber towel. Not only does it leave a nice shine on them but it also protects them from the elements boats are subjected to.
How many innuendo's can you fit into a single episode? Quite a lot aparently. 🤣🤣
On this weeks episode of Carry on Boating..... Honestly, so much innuendo and filth. LOVE IT!
I can't express how fantastic it was to hear you calling them "split pins" and not bloody "cotter pins".
Spent my apprentice ship calling them Split pins and cotter pins were things that held bike pedal arms on the crank ...and they still are 50 plus years later.
Lobster men just love those rope cutters.
It gladdens the heart to see a young married couple work so well together while shafting, it really is, a rare thing these days, You have to have every confidence in your shafting partner to have a firm grip, or accidents will happen, thankfully our Gemma has a vice-like grip even with slippery hands covered in gunk, which is a novelty, but a good safety factor, she is an inspiration to all boaty ladies in that she at no time lost her grip on the huge shafts, a testimony to her expertise on shaft handling, well done Gemma, I say, Simeon must be proud of you and even now I believe he is smiling with pride, on a cautionary note the boat yard is a dangerous place so can I ask you both to be cautious while shafting, lol
Lol
There's enough double entendres in this episode for it to qualify as a "Carry On" movie! 😂😂😂
What a right randy pair you two are!!
Refreshing to see you two have a normal sense of humour makes your vlogs even more interesting and fun, death to the naysayers.
While they come here and moan and groan, they are actually helping the channel with the algorithm. Every comment or thumbs up-down make youtube think more people would be interested in this video 🤣🤣
Just a note, when you put the props on the smaller nut goes on first.
The stern tube gland nut should press on a "collar" behind which the compressible packing is arranged, usually in three rings. There is no need for packing between the nut and the collar. Also it would be a good idea to remove the bolts from the gearbox flange and shaft coupling. This will allow you to check the alignment between the engine/transmission and prop shaft. Radial alignment should be checked with a clock gauge, while axial alignment is checked with a feeler gauge between the flanges. This is best done after the boat has been returned to the water, and adjustments made with shims under the engine feet.
Love all the T-shirt messages! Nice to see Robbo again, hard at work. He escaped the tiny cupboard on Sarinda.🤣
Always cut gland packing at 45 degrees ( like a scarf joint) also check out PTFE impregnated packing 👍, don't forget stern tube grease needs to be waterproof (silicon based) and anti seize on your prop nuts (stainless on stainless will gaul without lube, oh ere misses), a nice pair of custom made long series castlated prop nuts would have been better than lock nuts
When I worked in heavy engineering, we used a Rocol anti galling powder on stainless shafts. But they pumped hot water so a fine layer of paste should work on a boat prop. What do the shipwright professionals say?
I saw the boat in the yard last week, i was staying up the road. looking good.
Very impressed with Gemmas handling of the slippery shaft!
I cackled all the way through that. I love a bit of innuendo.
Good work. 👍🏼
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi guys as a long time small boater ,I think you've found a very pretty jewel of a boat and the way you did the refurb on the props shafts and rudders was better than a lot of boatyards it was impeccable.With those two big V8's she should absolutely fly. As for the very minor imperfections in the gelcoat they should be easily fixed whether she is Epoxied or Gel coated but do it with the appropriate material for each type..With the anti fouling on and the survey do wash downs help a lot in preventing corrosion also a marine wax on the white work will make her gleam like a diamond and also protect from U/V.. You've worked so very hard and diligently on Sarinda but the occasional break has been well earned.However always remember the definition of any boat is "A hole in the water that you have to put much money to keep it afloat" and the second axiom is " Any product prefaced by the word Marine costs twice as much as a similar product for domestic use"
Good luck with all your Marine endeavours ,stay safe and enjoy life as much as you can .
The shaft install commentary was great! Good to see some humor ..you guys are great!
Just noticed you have the prop locknuts on the erong way round unfortunately.
Thin nut on and torqued up to 25 to 50 percent of value ,thick nut on and torqued up fully while holding thin nut from turning sgainst force of thick nut being tightened against it.
Hope this helps the project along ..
Was wondering if anyone would ever notice or say anything. That plus they are in need of a proper shaft alignment before ruining the drive train.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Best episode yet!!
Need to be starting an only f*ns about shaft fitting! Prolly pay for the entire project. 😂. Luv ya guys. Keep up the goodness!
Another project well done indeed with just the right amount of humor thrown into the mix 😁😁
That rope cutter is a brilliant idea.
Place the anode further up the shaft as you need the water to have an easy route to the cutlass bearing.
Thank you for this, we will move it up x
Yup, those would have burned out in less than 10 hours as they were.
Hi guys your doing a great job , I’ve just put shaft zincs on and was told not to put them to close to the Skegss because it can stop or slow down water flow to the cutlass, bearing just what I was told 👍
Those props look like they're on backwards 😮
The shaft taper tells you that they are on correctly…
Stones started in 1832 making copper nails etc. for wooden ships. They developed propellers for turbines as they were replacing the reciprocating steam engines.
The smaller nut should go on the prop first and the larger lock nut last.
One in the pink one in the stink…chuckle… ❤ 5:52
as others mention the shaft zincs are best half way up the exposed shaft and can can facilitate if you need to push the shaft back for any reason in the future.Particularly when in the drink
You should cut the packing at an angle so the ends overlap. Seals much better than a straight cut.
When you cut the seal to length cut it on about a 45 degree angle rather than a strait cut, as the angle cut gives a much bigger sealing surface .
Also always put any joints 180% from one another, for better sealing.
its amazing what a bit of lube can do on a dry shaft. love the witty remarks you both make lmao. this is an awesome boat
You bought a Boutari, not a dud. Still giving Simon a hand to get that lubed shaft lined up and fully inserted. Gotta like teamwork. For added comfort with ease of insertion, lube that hole. Don't want it too dry. Propellers look fantastic. Are you able to wrap some rope around the propeller to determine how well the cutter works? Guessing there is a size and type manufacturer limitation.
At least Simon didn't call them cotter pins. Good luck guys.
Cottage pins have a flat taper and a thread on the end. Used on bicycle pedals and motorbike kick start handles. Split pins stop castellated nuts from unscrewing.
Cotter pins@@Dave5843-d9m
I thought I'd come in on a Ron Jeremy video with all that talk 😂😂. Great they were able to repair the props. Its funny about the SD card, I know a few people having similar problems. And some people like your selves with You Tube channels too.
Or a Benny Hill!
cant beat a bit of double entendre
Personally, if I were planning on keeping her for a while I would have fitted dripless shaft seals but those will certainly do the job. She's going to be a nice boat but the fuel bill is going to be eye-watering. They did a great job on the props, I'm surprised that the bad one was even salvageable TBH. Smart move fitting line cutters BTW.
If you become interested, I'm almost sure you're packing nut wrench can be bought fairly cheaply from a Swimming pool tech supply. Called a Bulkhead Wrench for filters. They're just 1/4", sorry, about 6 mill. aluminum plate with an angle bent in handle.
The kids don't realize it yet but these memories they will forever cherish
Instead of a straight cut I always used to do a tapered cut, this means there is no direct channel for any leaks. Back in the day most packing was made from asbestos which is not good, so other types are now used.
When fitting the Zincs when tight-end ,lightly tap it all over then re tighten. Hope fully 16:23 they wont come lose.
Never fails no matter how well you lube the hole and shaft your partner has to guide it in !
Speak for yourself.
Frankie Howard would have been proud of that dialogue lol
Two points of advice, lap the props onto the shafts using a grinding paste as used for engine valve seats corse then fine. When you assemble the shafts and props use a copper based grease during assembly as this will make it so much easier for when you need to get the props off again which you will need to do eventually.
Sure copper is not good with stainless in sea water galvanic reaction, agree with grease but maybe a diffrent type.
Thanks!
Thank you so much 💓
alot of good work and ALOT of innuendo s haha lovely
Nice goin m8s, impressed this end. Nice goin, weildin the knometre Gem, Simon, love the shirt Bro! If I could afford 😍🙄 Arvo Janice and Robbo. Looks like those new thingys on the shafts will do real well [heard but, not seen before]. Thanks m8s, I know I've said this before but, keep up the good work Eh!.
Nice one fingers crossed for the survey
Your kids seem more interested in the new boat. Shiney new things are better! Lol
Wonderful to see the kids working toogether on the famely boat👍
It MIGHT be a worthwhile idea to use a stainless radiator clamp around the shaft and grub screw to prevent the grub screw from backing out.
"Remember to always lubricate your hole." Words to live by! 🤣
disgusting. no need for that.
I know that you have already done your packing, but for future reference, instead of cutting the packing straight across, try cutting each ring at 45° (called scarfing) so that the ends of each ring overlap. You still need to stagger the joints but you will find that it works much better. Just found you by the way and you have another subscriber. I see that Gemma hasn't lost her Scouse sense of humour.
It’s a beautiful boat. I think I’d pretty much live onboard if it were mine 😂
Great job. The cutter will work. Ours works great. Never heard any of the lines that we ran over get cut. One was a longline. Found pieces when we cleaned the bottom.
packing cut at 45 degrees and offset joins around the shaft
Great to see that both your girls are helping !
Great job Gemma, Simon, Family & Friends! I think you got a bargain and I hope you make many memories and enjoy her to the fullest! As always, sending my best ♥
once your out in the water moniter the glands with a laser temp
Woven graphite is the best packing material. We use it on everything from water pumps to high pressure steam valves.
Please cut on a 45 deg so the pressure on the packing glad nut presses the ring into a solid ring then no chances of leaking around the ring joint.
I hope you have gave the bolts on the gearbox side of the shaft a really good squeeze or the force on the props in the water will shear the grubs and you will end up spitting out a shaft
Hi guys, wow what a good job you done. Can’t wait to see it on the water and having your two daughters with you. Having a bit of fun on the ocean together as a family. Keep up the good work love the videos Cliff from Logan city Queensland Australia 🇦🇺 from the big island. 🏝️
Just a heads up for you it was their son and daughter there. XX
I use 3 zinks on each shaft. Tried using 2 on each shaft but they dont last long enough. I heat up a jar of lanolin and spread it on the drive shafts and props, lasts about 6 months.
Another good video 🛥🚤⛵️👍👍👍👍👏👏👏⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Glad you enjoyed it
Please, don’ t forget to put water proofed grease on propshaft under the prop and nut. Otherwize it will be very hard to get them off.
The prop should come of very hard otherwise you loose the prop to easy! Never put grease on the propshaft where the prop and nut go!
Nice to see you are using the floating keyring I send you😊 (the one that looks like a liferaft seen from above)
Hardy Har Har, Love you guys as a team
Merci 👍
Please don't overtighten te stuffingbox . If you do so, the glandmaterial can burn out due to frictionheat. Always allow some water to come trhough fore cooling the gland. Just a few drops per minute or so.
it should be one drip every 90 seconds.
He watches Travels with Geordie, don't worry!
Always have spare packing material so it can be repacked.
Repacking can be a pain while you'r in the water. @@Dave5843-d9m
Ooh err Missus. Please yourself 😂😂😂
You guys are doing a great job, and the videos are great too by the way, and full of fun fun fun , just remember keep the anodes away from the cutlass bearing as it possibly will draw air in them and cause a void to the propeller as they need a permanent amount of water all the time with no air ok i hope this helps
Awesome work on a pretty boat, and it seems to be in very good condition, apart from the driveshaft, props, rudders and one very small little hole, I love the look of the bridge, those seats looks awesome and in very good conditions, it looks like after these "next week" work, it'll be ready to sail, perhaps you are already sailing it ! This ship was sold for quite a small price, repairing the whole drivetrain ain't cheap, but everything else looks almost perfect
Good Luck on the last step for the boat (or I guess enjoy your time on it by now) !
You certainly made a good fist of that. Great to watch you working together as a family ❤️
You should cut the packing material at a 45 degree angle, not a right angle, that gives a better chance of sealing. A right angle just gives a straight shot thru to the inside. Several packings with the cuts staggered is best.
Also it's good to lube the shaft before putting the prop on for many many reasons
At least you got it in the right hole 😅
Drum roll and cymbal clash followed by I thank you 😂
Good work, had a prop shaft fall out of a yacht before, was a very interesting afternoon on the water
I Had a prop-shaft come out of a speedboat I was skiing behind when driver went over a sand bank , luckily I saw it and it went between my skis!!1
Far too much innuendo you naughty pair 😂🤣👍
The stern gland packings look the same as the latest "Travels with Geordie" has on his boat. They have a small stepped compressor ring, between the nut you have packed and the sterntube proper. The packing goes in the sterntube proper, the compressor ring then slides down onto the packing and that big nut forces the compressor ring against the packing in the sterntube causing it to swell against the shaft, thereby creating the seal against the sea. Too tight and they will score the shaft...too loose and they will leak! The correct tension is when you get a very slow drip, one a second or thereabouts which lubricates the packing/shaft interface but does not cause heat or excessive leakage. The compressor ring is the one that spun around as Simon did up the big nut! Finally, tighten the thinner nut (painted dark blue in your boat) up towards the big nut (towards the engine end of the shaft) and lock the big nut in place. This will stop the stern tube from loosening as the shaft turns and sinking your boat! Check every now and then and adjust as needed. The rudders packing glands work exactly the same. You may have to look closely to see the compressor rings but I could see them on video so shouldn't be too hard for eagle eyed Gem!
i've heard that you need a slight drip to keep the packing cool and not bind up the shaft but it needs to bed in so check often at the start
THERE YOU GO GEMMA FOUND YOU ON YOUR NEW CHANNEL. ON YOUR NEW "HOLE IN THE WATER WHICH ONE POURS MONEY INTO". I FOLLOW YOU GUYS TO THE EDGE OF THE WORLD 🌎😎👍
Yes your here Kenny!!! 👏
I like your videos. They're uplifting. Good job.
Awesome guys 👍 look forward to the next one 👍👍
Great Job It Looks like you found a real gem great find great fix Happy boating
Thanks 👍
Maybe use some Blue Loctite on the treads as add protection on shafts coming loose and falling off into the water.
Your snippets are better than others reels! Love you two!
Anti-Clockwise? Counter-Clockwise ..... got to love it!
It's a British thing and we pronounce it "antee" 😉😁
@@garyallsopp6369 “England and America are two countries separated by a common language” .... just another great example! Enjoy
Widdershins!
@@brianbedoe8656 As I'm Welsh, I must correct to Britain and America, but as much as we feign indignation, I at least, delight in the differences, even grudgingly admitting that some Americanisms make more sense, but again, being Welsh I will blame the English and say "gwrthglocwedd!" 😜😁
Looking really good guys keep it up.
Hi Guys - just watched the episode and I think the stern gland has been packed incorrectly - the easiest way to explain it is if you watch ‘Travels With Geordie’ latest episode (381) - he had the same issue as the previous owner had assembled it wrong…..
Les
It's paint your boat time!
As always, Brilliant to watch you.
Thank you kindly!
For getting rid of the green on the the blue canvas canopy Patio Magic is great stuff .
Spray on and leave to do its stuff,helps keep green away for months afterwards too 👍
Thanks for the tip!
Looking great guys can't wait to see it in the water
Fantastic. Im sure she'll pSs with no issues. I cant wait to find out. You and you kids will have so much fun with her. Brilliant job as always
I have always cut the stuffing box rings on a forty five degree angle this gives you a much better seal rather than straight through.
There is a time in all mechanical fields where we revert to our 12 year old selves 😂
That's how twin shafts came about broken seal aloha much mahalos
Just love it and hopefully by time you read this you are already afloat, also you have a perfect team there, well done