Always do your toe-in after your installation, and while you have them on the jack stands and tires off. Brake rotors are nice smooth, straight edges to pull your measurements from. Does not matter how good your measurements were "center to center", I'll guarantee you it will not be the exact same as the factory steering links, which will throw you out of toe, which I'm sure you know will make it drive squirrely. Make sure you are no more than 1/8 out of toe, and you want it toe-in, not out. Also, tell your viewers the importance of torque specs. An out-of-spec. loose drag link bolt can wreak havoc. Good video! Semper Fi Marine!
Nice video i just ordered the same set up but with the fox stableizer...i put on 37's and noticed slight bump steer and now major death wobble and sure enough my drag link is bad but does it handle better or do you notice anything different from factory in handling or steering?
So my factory components were still good. I did not have any death wobble issues. So honestly I don’t really feel any difference as far as the ride goes. My steering is a bit more smooth which I contributed to the stabilizer just because my factory one seemed a bit less quality.
I’m not a fan of the dust boot. It doesn’t create a perfect seal so I figure at least this way when it does get dirty I can see it and wash it off instead of letting it get caked up on the inside of the boot.
@@itsadadlife well… yeah I guess that makes sense. Think I’ll add some drainage slits in mine so things don’t just fester but still has general protection. Some trails near glaciers in Alaska have a lot of very fine silt which can really wear parts down fast.
I get the lesson to just upsize the tires 1 size and keep everything stock... The best thing ever and keeps headache away
If one size bigger works for you then that will certainly be easier
Always do your toe-in after your installation, and while you have them on the jack stands and tires off. Brake rotors are nice smooth, straight edges to pull your measurements from. Does not matter how good your measurements were "center to center", I'll guarantee you it will not be the exact same as the factory steering links, which will throw you out of toe, which I'm sure you know will make it drive squirrely. Make sure you are no more than 1/8 out of toe, and you want it toe-in, not out. Also, tell your viewers the importance of torque specs. An out-of-spec. loose drag link bolt can wreak havoc. Good video! Semper Fi Marine!
Get that little guy wrenching early
Nice video i just ordered the same set up but with the fox stableizer...i put on 37's and noticed slight bump steer and now major death wobble and sure enough my drag link is bad but does it handle better or do you notice anything different from factory in handling or steering?
So my factory components were still good. I did not have any death wobble issues. So honestly I don’t really feel any difference as far as the ride goes. My steering is a bit more smooth which I contributed to the stabilizer just because my factory one seemed a bit less quality.
Why’d you take the dust boot thing off of the steering stabilizer?
Looks great though-just installed the same last week. 👍
I’m not a fan of the dust boot. It doesn’t create a perfect seal so I figure at least this way when it does get dirty I can see it and wash it off instead of letting it get caked up on the inside of the boot.
@@itsadadlife well… yeah I guess that makes sense.
Think I’ll add some drainage slits in mine so things don’t just fester but still has general protection.
Some trails near glaciers in Alaska have a lot of very fine silt which can really wear parts down fast.
What measurement u use for the billet on the tierod
No track Bar ?
Do the drag link first.