Wow 😲, that is the first time I have ever seen someone hammer in a full floating wrist pin.😳 When they're tight like that the wrist pin holes should be honed to a free moving .001" to .0015" slip fit. Please do not run those like that. You don't have to believe me but please fact check what I wrote.🤷 Also sometimes the piston wrist pin holes are to tight as well, it's not a bad idea to have those honed if that's the case. If the wrist pin rod bore is to tight and the piston wrist pin bores are also to tight oil won't make it's way in to lubricant the pins. This can leave to catastrophic engine failure and no one wants that.😎👍
I see your concern, trust me when I say this is not my first engine or the first time I’ve done this.You are correct normally a floating wrist pin is loose all the way through. Now this one is loose on the piston and only tight on the rod itself. So if you think about it that’s exactly how it is on a stock piston.All a full floating wrist pin is for is ease of changing and it’s a fail safe if it were to lock down on the piston.
@@SmallTownBuilds Yep, second line of defense in case the piston wrist pin bore is or gets to tight when the engine sees sustained RPMs above 4,000 or higher. Higher RPM or prolonged higher RPM applications are the reason to use full floating pistons and rods.🤷 It's your engine, if you're happy with it that way good luck.😎👍
Yeah I think it will be fine thanks for the comment and looking out. The engine I pulled from this car was the 383 stroker I built a couple of years ago it was the same way and I ran it out to 6500 rpm’s with no trouble.I plan on putting that engine in my 69 nova.
Wow 😲, that is the first time I have ever seen someone hammer in a full floating wrist pin.😳 When they're tight like that the wrist pin holes should be honed to a free moving .001" to .0015" slip fit. Please do not run those like that. You don't have to believe me but please fact check what I wrote.🤷
Also sometimes the piston wrist pin holes are to tight as well, it's not a bad idea to have those honed if that's the case. If the wrist pin rod bore is to tight and the piston wrist pin bores are also to tight oil won't make it's way in to lubricant the pins. This can leave to catastrophic engine failure and no one wants that.😎👍
I see your concern, trust me when I say this is not my first engine or the first time I’ve done this.You are correct normally a floating wrist pin is loose all the way through. Now this one is loose on the piston and only tight on the rod itself. So if you think about it that’s exactly how it is on a stock piston.All a full floating wrist pin is for is ease of changing and it’s a fail safe if it were to lock down on the piston.
@@SmallTownBuilds
Yep, second line of defense in case the piston wrist pin bore is or gets to tight when the engine sees sustained RPMs above 4,000 or higher. Higher RPM or prolonged higher RPM applications are the reason to use full floating pistons and rods.🤷
It's your engine, if you're happy with it that way good luck.😎👍
Yeah I think it will be fine thanks for the comment and looking out.
The engine I pulled from this car was the 383 stroker I built a couple of years ago it was the same way and I ran it out to 6500 rpm’s with no trouble.I plan on putting that engine in my 69 nova.