English Cut vs Italian Cut vs American Cut Suits | What Suit Shall I Buy?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video we discuss the differences between 3 suit cuts. The English cut, The American cut, and The Italian cut. It has a lot to do with padding, lines and fabric weight. We hope you find this video informative and useful in your future suit shopping.
Let us know which cut you like the best, and why.
Please send all your questions to ask@mortsandmore.com
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Italian cut is the best in my eyes. Really love it.
Great to see recent videos from you guys... Big up!!!!
Thanks Fabian
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Great video as always! I disagree with looser suits being more comfortable though, at least for me. I've found that the only time I truly feel comfortable is when the fit is as precise as possible because that means there's no fabric moving around, getting caught and pulling every which way. A well-fitted suit, structured or less so, just stays properly in place and feels almost like wearing nothing (in a good way.)
I tried to tell my ex-tailor that I wanted to achieve a British cut with my suit and she just laughed because I don’t think she knew what I was talking about hence that is why she is my ex-tailor.
I’m American and I can’t stand our suit cuts here.
They’re so unfashionable.
Comfortable, I agree but unfashionable.
Haha glad to hear she's the ex-tailor. I hope you've managed to find a good one, that can work with you to create some great pieces.
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They all are comfortable tho. Italian is very easy to deconstruct and look well. British cut has to be comfortable, the guy in white shirt for example is a bad tailoring. French to me is still the better one, they are comfortable, very simple, but constructed enough to give it a structure and shape and a LOT of attention to detail and QUALITY. Because they are so simple details and quality of materials get more attention.
I bought my first suit from Tom James in the US, a medium gray flannel three piece with peak lapels. It has slightly more shape than a sack suit, but it is still more boxy than an English or Italian cut. Now I have my suits made by Divij Hemrajani. Their suits tend to be more english, but depending on the idea behind the suit, it might have some Italian style. My last suit made is a solid blue seersucker with patch pockets, and no shoulder padding.
Here in the United States, most suits that I have seen for sale are a bit of a hybrid between the American and the English. I have a navy and light charcoal suit. My navy suit has more of the English look but the American pants, while my charcoal suit has the English look and structure but the American lines, atleast till I have it altered more.
I love hearing from you guys.
Thanks Kiki
I agree with the social media mash ups. I’m an American and have a bit of all the looks but really US suiting has definitely gotten more fitted and tailored well. Ryan Gosling is a good example of an American with a good mash up/mix. Bradley Cooper as well.
We do seem to be trending more towards sleeker, more fitted designs these days. I think part of that is the recent upswing in interest in vintage clothing. Which likely goes hand in hand with the exposure menswear is now getting again, thanks to social media.
Quite a lot of variation within Italy i.e Neapolitan, Venetian and Milanese tailors all have a different style.
When I interned in NYC there was an English gentleman whose suits were considerably perfect... Mostly the shoulders and the darts in the waist... I loved that look. How would you describe British suit pants as far as the cut??? Full, short, pleated , cuffed etc?
I live in Italy and the suits that i see being worn are almost all very tight fitted. Fashion changes costantly, you can see drastic changes every 5 years, i mean look at a suit from the 80's!
The main reason for a fitted British suit specially with a waist coat is that England is a cold country with heavy snow and even in spring days are cloudy and rainy. So you need to keep yourself warm that’s why suits are in more fitted to keep you warm. On the other hand, Italy is comparatively warmer country than England and traditional suits are a little loose to allow more air to flow inside. Climate is a main reason for clothing.
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I’m fairly new to your channel but I’ve watched about 20 of your videos. Really find the informative and enjoyable. I have a question regarding a double breasted navy blazer. I inherited one that fits well but it has the traditional brass buttons. How do you feel about changing them? What color do you recommend and finally what are your thoughts on styling it more towards smart casual?
Awesome. Appreciate the video! Would suggest pictures of the different suit styles to help us viewers understand what you are discussing. Keep up the great work!
Some of us Americans are trying to get back to the V taper :D, throw in some balance of color.
What type of cut would you say Ghost wears in the POWER series?
Good video guys!
Thanks Harold
What about French suits?
Hi Dr Hewitt, thanks for your comment. French suits are a cut we've had little exposure to, however it does appear that the French favour a bold sleeve head. Somewhat of a heavy roped shoulder. We're happy to be corrected if wrong but we'd say the French houses will use an Italian or English cut as their base and then modify.
@@Mortsandmore it does seem that the French favor a more traditional, English cut / silhouette to their suits. Though, they certainly seem to tweak the structure around a little, depending on the makers personal influence.
When i sit down in a waist coat the chest part stick out forward, and advice?
Its hard to say without seeing it but it could mean the stomach is too tight
Morts & More Thankyou very much
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Thanks Pecha
I love the struction of the english style and the length,i hate short italian jackets.in the other hand i need lightly padded shoulders because my shoulders are very bulky!thats why i have to go bespoke to get the fit of my preference.p.s:there is no american style.only boxy,sruffy ugly american clothes
Agree with you on the bespoke route. lol @ no American style. Thanks Nikos.
I actually disagree with the idea that there is no American style. I think we saw a lot of the American style die out during the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s, but at one point we had quite a melting pot of talent from all over the world making garments here. It was the advent of the big box store and off the rack suits churned out by the thousands that really hamstrung the development of a uniquely American style. It is my hope that with the resurgance of interest in quality handmade goods here that we might see that trend reverse itself as we progress towards the mid point of the 2000s.
Neither of American, nor Italian, nor English.
French.