I’d just like to say that you will have slight bump steer with your set up since you have a track bar relocation, any time you move it up (axle side), you also have you raise your drag link( to over the knuckle)
I'm sure your right, if I was running a non ATS stabilizer, I would feel it more. The flip will most likely come, I have the parts. Thanks for your input.
@@gladiatoradventurestalked to Don from rpm steering basically it comes down to the aluminum source China vs American Don said his are made from American aluminum vs Apex so I guess it’s personal preference because both honor warranty pretty well and not sure from Tmr they are out of Canada. My friends run all 3 companies I went with Steer Smarts all up front just not a fan of the clamps
Apex makes the rod ends, I would go with them. RPM is fine, but why not buy from the company that manufactures the parts. Less headache if you need to utilize the warrantee
I bought that track bar relocation bracket but my steering stabilizer came in contact with the drag link at full left turn. Does the track bar end hit the frame when flexing now that it’s higher?
Do you have bump steer with your current set up ? I only ask because I have a 4” kit with the track bar in the stock location on the axle and knuckle , but I have a little bit of bump steer.
I have very little, but its there. I have an adjustable steering stabilizer, that I can turn up the dampening, so the "hides" it well. The new steering helps too. Thanks for your comments.
How's your bump steer? My jlu with clyaton 3.5 lift 37s. I have bump steer. Trying to fix. Stock drag and tie rod. Clayton track bar. Looking at the smart steer tie rod relocation bracket and apex drag link flip. I do have the fox threw shaft in stock position. I understand I need to relocate so as not to bend the shaft on the diff. Thoughts? Thanks.
How are you liking the kit today after it’s been on for a bit ? This is the exact kit I’m looking to install. My 22’ gladiator has a 3.5” Clayton off road overland plus lift and I’m running 37-12.50-17 Cooper sst tires. 13k miles and I’m running into issues with the tie rod ends the exact same way. And I’m also looking at the same fox steering stabilizer. Can’t find the fox ATS stabilizer anywhere in stock but can the 2.0 like you have. Thanks for any info on helping me decide. Great video 👍👍
Great info man. I haven’t found any comparison videos yet between Apex and RPM and Im still trying g to decide which way to go. What was your reason for going with Apex?
Plain & simple, they weren't designed to cater to 40s. Stock tires,, TREs would last the life span of the vehicle. You're tasking every component in your steering equation to do things it wasn't spec'd to do. TREs is just the tip of the iceberg. Balljoints will eventually fail. You're making your steering box & pump turn 7-8" more rubber than it was meant to turn. Sector shaft...that's like Pee Wee Herman arm wrestling Hulk Hogan. DL flip is more than just boring out your knuckle & inserting a sleeve. Now you have to raise your trackbar mount to keep it parallel to DL. I get what you're trying to do...push oem components to their limits but it's not a matter of if it will fail, it's when. Do you really want to snap a sector shaft on the rocks, in a trail 2-3 hours from home. You don't need folks to learn from your mistakes. It's not like Jeep made any of the oem stuff any better than what they were putting on JKs, if anything it's gotten worse. No need to wait till something fails to address it. You want peace of mind knowing your rig is built to withstand whatever it is your tackling vs playing Russian Roulette
You make great points, all true. The purpose is to see how long OEM will last, we know it WILL fail, but the average hobbyist can't afford to upgrade everything just to go wheeling. We have to slowly upgrade as the wallet allows. The JT frames are vastly different from JK, and the Diesel has a different pump and ratio, and frame reinforcements to handle the tourqe. I have not heard of any selector shaft issues with the Diesel, but you make valid points, thanks for your input, as it good education for all.
I’d just like to say that you will have slight bump steer with your set up since you have a track bar relocation, any time you move it up (axle side), you also have you raise your drag link( to over the knuckle)
I'm sure your right, if I was running a non ATS stabilizer, I would feel it more. The flip will most likely come, I have the parts. Thanks for your input.
Really? He said all of this in his video!! I guess you needed to say it to feel important?
wow who would of thought that! frame is another big problem!
Great video! Actually deciding on a Tmr , Rpm or Apex all seem to be priced the same for a 2.5 kit
My understanding is Apex makes the rod ends for both. I just figured to stay with the source. inform me if you know something different
@@gladiatoradventurestalked to Don from rpm steering basically it comes down to the aluminum source China vs American Don said his are made from American aluminum vs Apex so I guess it’s personal preference because both honor warranty pretty well and not sure from Tmr they are out of Canada. My friends run all 3 companies I went with Steer Smarts all up front just not a fan of the clamps
I think all three would compliment my PSC overlander setup w/o ram assist
Nice video! Thank you for sharing! Keep up the great work!😎💪
Nice upgrade
Looking forward to get a gladiator soon. Just trying to find the right one. I love this set up so far. Happy to subscribe.
Thanks for comments, good luck, you can't go wrong with ANY JT that's a diesel. I would take a diesel over a Rubicon gaser
Great video man and good luck with the channel!
Thanks
Great video and explanation. My fear now is the sector shaft. 🤞🏻 are you running the Synergy support bracket on the steering box?
Just the stock set up, it's definitely on my mind. Thanks for your comments.
@diesel gladiator adventures... what bracket do you use to mount the fox TS steering stablizer to the track bar on the passenger side?
steersmarts.com/products/yeti-xd-jl-jlu-track-bar-relocation-bracket
Which one is the best rpm or apex or steersmart for this tie rod ans draglink and trackbar?
Apex makes the rod ends, I would go with them. RPM is fine, but why not buy from the company that manufactures the parts. Less headache if you need to utilize the warrantee
Where is apex made?
apexchassis.com/pages/about-our-products
You’re review from Apex brought me here. Great video, much appreciated. Your review and walkthrough alone sold me. They should send you a spiff.
Thanks for the video I am doing the same set up. Where might I find the aftermarket bolt for the track bar to relocate the Fox ATS stabilizer?
Ace Hardware/Home depot, just get a grade 8 bolt.
I bought that track bar relocation bracket but my steering stabilizer came in contact with the drag link at full left turn. Does the track bar end hit the frame when flexing now that it’s higher?
Can you make a video if you can move up and down apex tie rod and draglink with your hand to see if any movement?
Do you have bump steer with your current set up ? I only ask because I have a 4” kit with the track bar in the stock location on the axle and knuckle , but I have a little bit of bump steer.
I have very little, but its there. I have an adjustable steering stabilizer, that I can turn up the dampening, so the "hides" it well. The new steering helps too. Thanks for your comments.
How's your bump steer? My jlu with clyaton 3.5 lift 37s. I have bump steer. Trying to fix. Stock drag and tie rod. Clayton track bar. Looking at the smart steer tie rod relocation bracket and apex drag link flip. I do have the fox threw shaft in stock position. I understand I need to relocate so as not to bend the shaft on the diff. Thoughts? Thanks.
How are you liking the kit today after it’s been on for a bit ? This is the exact kit I’m looking to install. My 22’ gladiator has a 3.5” Clayton off road overland plus lift and I’m running 37-12.50-17 Cooper sst tires. 13k miles and I’m running into issues with the tie rod ends the exact same way. And I’m also looking at the same fox steering stabilizer. Can’t find the fox ATS stabilizer anywhere in stock but can the 2.0 like you have. Thanks for any info on helping me decide. Great video 👍👍
kit has almost 30k, still good! I would do 4.5 inch springs vs 6.5 inch. I still would run 40's
@@gladiatoradventures awesome. I just ordered the kit yesterday and it shipped out today so that’s great new 👍👍
Great vid!
Great info man. I haven’t found any comparison videos yet between Apex and RPM and Im still trying g to decide which way to go. What was your reason for going with Apex?
Apex provides the rod ends for RPM. I just went to the source.
Thx for sharing bro cheers from tampa
I've seen ya around town! love the vids. lets go wheel sometime, im also in a gladiator on 40's
Lets do it, Ill be available after KOH, look me up on FB
Plain & simple, they weren't designed to cater to 40s. Stock tires,, TREs would last the life span of the vehicle. You're tasking every component in your steering equation to do things it wasn't spec'd to do. TREs is just the tip of the iceberg. Balljoints will eventually fail. You're making your steering box & pump turn 7-8" more rubber than it was meant to turn. Sector shaft...that's like Pee Wee Herman arm wrestling Hulk Hogan. DL flip is more than just boring out your knuckle & inserting a sleeve. Now you have to raise your trackbar mount to keep it parallel to DL.
I get what you're trying to do...push oem components to their limits but it's not a matter of if it will fail, it's when. Do you really want to snap a sector shaft on the rocks, in a trail 2-3 hours from home. You don't need folks to learn from your mistakes. It's not like Jeep made any of the oem stuff any better than what they were putting on JKs, if anything it's gotten worse. No need to wait till something fails to address it. You want peace of mind knowing your rig is built to withstand whatever it is your tackling vs playing Russian Roulette
You make great points, all true. The purpose is to see how long OEM will last, we know it WILL fail, but the average hobbyist can't afford to upgrade everything just to go wheeling. We have to slowly upgrade as the wallet allows. The JT frames are vastly different from JK, and the Diesel has a different pump and ratio, and frame reinforcements to handle the tourqe. I have not heard of any selector shaft issues with the Diesel, but you make valid points, thanks for your input, as it good education for all.
1/2 ton at best
OEM steering wont take rock crawling especially in Oklahoma you may get 5 or 6 wheeling trips before they fail. OEM is total junk
Nice video! Thank you for sharing! Keep up the great work! 👊
Thank you