Got a no chill question? We have an answer for that! Mostly. Check out our "No Chill University" playlist where we answer your most common No Chill questions. th-cam.com/play/PLwAiVPPoy3spOacVPDpbuyoTBmEmlXK76.html
I do no chill directly into my corny keg, in which I ferment in. Works a treat, less fuss, cleaning, and saves worry about infection from transfer too.
Having hot cubed for many years now I'd strongly suggest only bittering hop additions at the start of the boil and then leave all your aroma/flavour hops for dry hopping. Haven't touched a chiller since I learnt about hot cubing. Swimming pools also make a great cooler downerer :)
You'll still get dimethyl sulfide forming if you cool your wort like this. If you make a light beer such as a lager or light ale you'll be very likely to notice that it tastes of cooked corn.
I just leave the wort in the kettle overnight after giving it a good whirlpool and rack/oxygenate into the carboy over yeast in the morning. No issues for 10+ years.
Great video, I currently have no tap fittings for my chiller hose so appreciate the advice. Will try for a few brews and I will do a smash to reduce the hoppy taste you warn about.
Sorry for the late reply Benjamin. In short, we don't recommend you use your fermenter to no chill. For no chill to work properly, you really need an airtight container. Most fermenters are not airtight (unless you are using a plastic unit-tank like this: www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/RVNYMJYE-fermenters/7FERMENTASAURUS%20SNUB%20NOSE--fermentasaurus-35-litre-snub-nose) ..but they are not designed to hold boiling liquids). As the wort cools in your fermenter, it contracts and will draw in air from the outside. This has the potential to oxidise the wort and introduce contaminants. Plus, fermenters have more parts where bacteria can hide (around the seals, threads and in the tap). This usually doesn't present a huge problem in normal fermentation, but can become a big problem if small amounts of bacteria are exposed to warm wort for extended periods (say overnight). It's best not to risk it. Find yourself a proper cube if you can. If your local homebrew shop doesn't stock any, you can usually find them at camping stores.
if you have a 55-60 L fermenter then just add cold filter water first then pour hot wort over that to get your temp and volume correct pitch yeast same day....add DME to bring ABV up.....
Its all I have ever done. Two 20L cubes per brew. Also have never touched them with sanitiser and just rinse out with cold water after emptying into fermenters, then rinse with a couple of litres of boiling water each. Good shake and empty, then seal tightly. The cubes will suck in as they cool empty but thats ok. Then before filling another rinse with boiling water. Never had an infection doing this
These videos are really good, thank you for sharing. However, I cant "pop" into your shop as im in the UK lol. Can I ask though, could I not transfer my wort straight into my fermenting barrell & leave that to cool overnight & pitch my yeast into that?. It only has a lid though so not sure if its air tight enough?
Hey Trotters, greetings from Australia. It is a shame you can't pop over for a visit 😅 As for no chilling straight in your fermenter, yes it is possible but we wouldn't recommend it. As the wort cools in your fermenter, it contracts and will draw in air from the outside if the lid is not air tight. This has the potential to oxidise the wort and introduce contaminants. Plus, fermenters have more parts where bacteria can hide (around the seals, threads and in the tap). This usually doesn't present a huge problem in normal fermentation, but can become a big problem if small amounts of bacteria are exposed to warm wort for extended periods (say overnight). It also depends on the type of plastic your fermenter is made out of. Lighter grades of plastic may warp in the presence of hot wort or degrade over time. It's best not to risk it. Find yourself a proper cube made from HDPE plastic if you can. If your local homebrew shop doesn't stock any, you can usually find them at camping stores.
Grain and Grape Melbourne I’ll be brewing with this method next week. I listened to the experimental brew podcast today to. It’s refreshing, to see other things. lol
Ok, since watching this video several months ago, I’m a hot cube convert and proud of it. It’s so quick and easy, and once you’ve figured out the bittering effects (I’m a big fan of cube hops) you’re brews are as good as a traditionally cooled brew. I’ve left the cube for upwards of a few weeks with no I’ll effects, however some mean kids on a US brewing forum have got in my head and convinced me I’m giving myself botulism. How long do you think the wort lasts in the cube (in your opinion obviously assuming good sanitation), and is this the same method you use when making fresh wort kits or do they undergo a further process (UV sanitising etc)? Thanks in advance, massive fan of you guys and all the great work you do, keep it up 👍
Ah, the spectre of botulism raises its head once again. Don’t worry, it is a natural concern. This topic was hotly debated on aussiehomebrewer.com way back when the no chill method was first being conceived. You could go through their archives (do a word search on botulism and you will see the history). As the concept of no chill cubing is still relatively new in the US, they are going through the same debate we went through over 10 years ago now I think. That’s not to say you shouldn’t carry a healthy level of respect for proper food handling techniques. There is always a risk, even if it is low. We don’t do anything special to our fresh wort kits. The cubes are pre-sanitised and packaged promptly while the wort is 90+ degrees celsius in a clean environment. We do occasional shelf stability tests and so our opinion is, that when packaged correctly a cube will last as much as 12 months (although you should expect it to lose its freshness). Leaving the cubes a few weeks as you say won’t be a problem at all. Even a few months is no big deal. But in general using the cube quicker is better. If you are concerned about botulism there are a few steps you could employ, most are just common sense. ► Pre-acidify the wort to about 4.5 (using phosphoric or lactic acid). This slight ph drop can inhibit microbial growth, although it *could* wind up making a slightly tart beer. ►Always cube your wort promptly after the boil has ended. ►Cube your wort indoors or in a garage if possible, away from drafty areas (botulinum bacteria are commonly found in soil, so perhaps don’t go brew a beer in the garden straight after you have composted your veggie patch). ►Botulism causing bacteria are said to sometimes emit putrid smelling odours and gas, so if your cube has swelled or smells or looks bad -chuck it. The bacteria can also cause liquids to take on a pinkish colour, so if your wort comes out of the cube pink -chuck it. While botulism has become a running joke on some Australian forums it is a serious illness and steps should be avoided to prevent it. The last thing the home brewing world needs is a fatal case of food poisoning attributed to no chill cubing. Follow best practise as well as you can and you will be fine. Chris Colby wrote a thoughtful article on it here: beerandwinejournal.com/botulism/ Worth a read.
Grain and Grape Melbourne thanks for the speedy reply, and the in depth info. I wasn’t too worried, but being newish to the process it did have me second guessing. Thanks again
Hi Kenneth, good question. Anecdotally speaking, no chill beers do taste different to "quick" chilled beers. However, this doesn't make no chill better or worse than quick chilling. It is just different. (If done correctly you shouldn't experience any off flavours or defects, let's put it that way). We have not done any side by side experiments at the shop but plenty of other home brewers have. You will find lots of their stories across all the brewing forums out there, and Brulosophy did their own experiment on it a few years back which could give you an overview of what to expect: brulosophy.com/2015/11/09/cooling-the-wort-pt-1-no-chill-vs-quick-chill-exbeeriment-results/ Spoiler alert, preferences for the Chilled Vs No Chilled beers in that experiment were pretty much split right down the middle.
Hey there @rattlewar101, it's a common question but in short, we would't recommend you do that. On the one hand the no chill method is great for both its simplicity and the effort it saves immediately after the boil. The down side is the excruciating wait as between the time it takes for the cube to cool and pitching your yeast, so we understand the desire to want to speed things up. But the other important aspect of the no chill method is ensuring proper pasteurisation of the wort. In theory, this process happens quite quickly once transferred to the cube but it's best to err on the side of caution and leave the cube as hot as possible for as long as possible. This means letting the cube cool naturally for a number of hours -even overnight and pitching your yeast the next day. People do use all kinds of tricks to chill their cubes quicker (I've even read of one guy who puts his hot cubes straight in his swimming pool) -but do so at your own risk. We can't condone any methods that fall outside the proven safe method for no chilling.
Yes technically you can do both these things but there can be drawbacks. Mainly that the heat of the cube will put a lot of stress on your fridge or freezer. We actually have some videos in the works addressing exactly these questions so stay tuned!
Can I use a 20L Speidel Fermenter to do this. I have a 30L and a 20L and I brew typically 5 gallon batches. I ferment in the 30 and then move to the 20 for secondary. Can I use either one to do the No Chill Method or should I just try it to the 20L to limit the air. Thanks for the tips but this is cool idea.
Hi Mallard, glad you found the video useful. It might be possible to use your 20L Speidel fermenter to no chill, providing you can find a way to make it air tight -but I wouldn't recommend it. One of the problems you may encounter is, as the wort cools and contracts it will draw in oxygen which is not good for hot wort, plus you will be potentially introducing contaminants. Another problem is that over time, the continual use of adding boiling wort to the fermenter will degrade and warp the plastic. Not something you want to do to your fine Speidel fermenter. I would highly recommend using a cube if you can get one, the Speidel fermenter could work as a last resort if you are really stuck but do so at your own risk.
Thanks!! This is a great alternative!! For a 1 gal batch I absolutely need a 4L bottle right? And, can I use my autosiphon? I have a kitchen cauldron to brew :O
Hi Pedro, yeah you want to find the closest bottle size to your batch. So a 4L bottle will be perfect for 1 gal. If the bottle is too big that is ok, just do your best to squeeze as much air out as possible after it is full. I would be weary of using an autosiphon as they are usually made out of plastic The plastic ones will definitely melt when you run boiling wort through them and you don't want that. Better to use a stainless steel racking cane and silicon tubing -or use a funnel and gently pour the wort in as a last resort.
I'm looking to getting into brewing under pressure. I didn't want to have to go and buy half a dozen kegs straight up so I was wondering if I can store my fermented brews in one of these drums?
Hi Joshua, these cubes are not pressure rated so we wouldn't recommend you do that (fermenting under pressure in the wrong vessel can not only get messy but is potentially dangerous). However the good news is you don't have to use kegs. Something like a "uni-tank" may be your best value option: www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/search/7FERMENTER%20KING%20JUNIOR%2020--fermenter-king-junior-20l-pressure-fermenter It all depends on what your end goal is. It sounds like you are looking for a way to store fermented beer in bulk? If that is the case, buying multiple kegs or unit-tanks is your only option. Or if you are just wanting to _ferment_ under pressure, one uni tank will do -then just transfer your beer to bottles for storage the way you normally would.
@@grain_and_grape Yeah pretty much looking for a cheaper method to store the fermented beer. The uni tanks are definitely a cheaper option to a keg. What if you stored the fermented beer at low pressure in the cubes & then transferred it into a keg to pressurise & carbonate for drinking?
@@fifis101 You could try it that way but the results will be unpredictable and we wouldn't recommend it. In general you don't want to be storing fermented beer for extended periods of time anyway -unless you are ageing it on purpose. Consider trying a different approach. Instead of looking for ways to store fermented beer that isn't being consumed, just no chill your brews. Store them cubed and unfermented. They will last for months this way and when you are ready, ferment and keg as needed. Much less potential issues that way. If you heart is set on storing fermented beer, consider buying kegs or uni-tanks one by one over a period of time.
Hi Jonas, I think I see where you are coming from, but there really is no risk of that happening. I think you are referring to what happens if you fill a bottle half way with hot liquid, close the opening and then shake. The hot water wants to suddenly evaporate, but the steam has nowhere to go and creates pressure -if you open the lid before it’s had time to cool, you wind up with a volcano of hot water spraying everywhere! Anyone who has tried to clean a bottle with hot water over the kitchen sink may have experienced this. It is not fun! Care should be taken to ensure that the cube is filled to the brim with wort. So the cube being filled with liquid leaves no room for any hot “gas” to expand. A small air pocket poses no issue. HDPE plastic is strong and has a reasonable amount of give, and the threads on the caps are quite thick. They are able to hold quite a high PSI before rupture. Plastic bottles for example can hold 150 PSI, or even more. Much higher than glass. I suppose a significant air pocket, or say, only filling the cube half full might be a problem. And even then you would have to go out of your way to shake the cube to speed up the reaction. But there are so many reasons why this should be avoided -potential explosions are way down the list. Common sense and caution should always be used when handling hot liquids. Take care out there and happy brewing!
I have seen this mentioned many times in homebrew discussion forums. Brewers absolutely have used corney kegs for the chilling. A lot of them pitch the yeast after and do the fermenting in the keg as well.. (they usually shorten the dip tube to miss the trub when drawing out afterwards) If the container is sturdy, air tight, and can deal with the temps safely, any container can be used.
Got a no chill question? We have an answer for that! Mostly. Check out our "No Chill University" playlist where we answer your most common No Chill questions.
th-cam.com/play/PLwAiVPPoy3spOacVPDpbuyoTBmEmlXK76.html
70c is good enough to kill nasties, this is the temp required for hot water systems to prevent legionellla
I do no chill directly into my corny keg, in which I ferment in. Works a treat, less fuss, cleaning, and saves worry about infection from transfer too.
Having hot cubed for many years now I'd strongly suggest only bittering hop additions at the start of the boil and then leave all your aroma/flavour hops for dry hopping. Haven't touched a chiller since I learnt about hot cubing. Swimming pools also make a great cooler downerer :)
Thanks for sharing Tim!
What this bloke said 🤘
Never chilled before. Many, many brews under my belt. Pitching in morning works great 😊
Wow!!!! I hate cooling wort!! Didn’t know you could do this.....might start brewing again. Thanks!!! I subscribed 😀
You'll still get dimethyl sulfide forming if you cool your wort like this. If you make a light beer such as a lager or light ale you'll be very likely to notice that it tastes of cooked corn.
I just leave the wort in the kettle overnight after giving it a good whirlpool and rack/oxygenate into the carboy over yeast in the morning. No issues for 10+ years.
In my country water is very valuable, we just chill them in stainless fermenter in the fridge overnight, And pitch yeast after.
This video changed my whole process. Thanks bro
Great video, I currently have no tap fittings for my chiller hose so appreciate the advice. Will try for a few brews and I will do a smash to reduce the hoppy taste you warn about.
Glad it was helpful!
Thoughts on putting the hot wort straight into the fermentor to chill over night and then pitching the yeast the next day?
Sorry for the late reply Benjamin. In short, we don't recommend you use your fermenter to no chill. For no chill to work properly, you really need an airtight container. Most fermenters are not airtight (unless you are using a plastic unit-tank like this: www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/RVNYMJYE-fermenters/7FERMENTASAURUS%20SNUB%20NOSE--fermentasaurus-35-litre-snub-nose) ..but they are not designed to hold boiling liquids).
As the wort cools in your fermenter, it contracts and will draw in air from the outside. This has the potential to oxidise the wort and introduce contaminants. Plus, fermenters have more parts where bacteria can hide (around the seals, threads and in the tap). This usually doesn't present a huge problem in normal fermentation, but can become a big problem if small amounts of bacteria are exposed to warm wort for extended periods (say overnight).
It's best not to risk it. Find yourself a proper cube if you can. If your local homebrew shop doesn't stock any, you can usually find them at camping stores.
if you have a 55-60 L fermenter then just add cold filter water first
then pour hot wort over that to get your temp and volume correct pitch yeast same day....add DME to bring ABV up.....
Its all I have ever done. Two 20L cubes per brew. Also have never touched them with sanitiser and just rinse out with cold water after emptying into fermenters, then rinse with a couple of litres of boiling water each. Good shake and empty, then seal tightly. The cubes will suck in as they cool empty but thats ok. Then before filling another rinse with boiling water. Never had an infection doing this
Thanks for sharing your method Richard. It's always good see the different tricks people are using at home!
greetings from Greece Ben keep up the great vids !!
Best explanation I have seen. Thanks
Cheers Karl 😁
These videos are really good, thank you for sharing. However, I cant "pop" into your shop as im in the UK lol. Can I ask though, could I not transfer my wort straight into my fermenting barrell & leave that to cool overnight & pitch my yeast into that?. It only has a lid though so not sure if its air tight enough?
Hey Trotters, greetings from Australia. It is a shame you can't pop over for a visit 😅
As for no chilling straight in your fermenter, yes it is possible but we wouldn't recommend it.
As the wort cools in your fermenter, it contracts and will draw in air from the outside if the lid is not air tight. This has the potential to oxidise the wort and introduce contaminants. Plus, fermenters have more parts where bacteria can hide (around the seals, threads and in the tap). This usually doesn't present a huge problem in normal fermentation, but can become a big problem if small amounts of bacteria are exposed to warm wort for extended periods (say overnight).
It also depends on the type of plastic your fermenter is made out of. Lighter grades of plastic may warp in the presence of hot wort or degrade over time. It's best not to risk it. Find yourself a proper cube made from HDPE plastic if you can. If your local homebrew shop doesn't stock any, you can usually find them at camping stores.
Cheers friend to great beers , that’s why we brew our own beer and grow hops , stay thirsty man
Great vid, keep them coming!
Thanks May!
Thank you for this video! This is a game changer for me.
You're welcome Paul. We are very pleased to hear we could help you! Happy brewing!
Grain and Grape Melbourne I’ll be brewing with this method next week. I listened to the experimental brew podcast today to. It’s refreshing, to see other things. lol
Ok, since watching this video several months ago, I’m a hot cube convert and proud of it. It’s so quick and easy, and once you’ve figured out the bittering effects (I’m a big fan of cube hops) you’re brews are as good as a traditionally cooled brew.
I’ve left the cube for upwards of a few weeks with no I’ll effects, however some mean kids on a US brewing forum have got in my head and convinced me I’m giving myself botulism.
How long do you think the wort lasts in the cube (in your opinion obviously assuming good sanitation), and is this the same method you use when making fresh wort kits or do they undergo a further process (UV sanitising etc)?
Thanks in advance, massive fan of you guys and all the great work you do, keep it up 👍
Ah, the spectre of botulism raises its head once again. Don’t worry, it is a natural concern.
This topic was hotly debated on aussiehomebrewer.com way back when the no chill method was first being conceived. You could go through their archives (do a word search on botulism and you will see the history).
As the concept of no chill cubing is still relatively new in the US, they are going through the same debate we went through over 10 years ago now I think. That’s not to say you shouldn’t carry a healthy level of respect for proper food handling techniques.
There is always a risk, even if it is low.
We don’t do anything special to our fresh wort kits. The cubes are pre-sanitised and packaged promptly while the wort is 90+ degrees celsius in a clean environment.
We do occasional shelf stability tests and so our opinion is, that when packaged correctly a cube will last as much as 12 months (although you should expect it to lose its freshness). Leaving the cubes a few weeks as you say won’t be a problem at all. Even a few months is no big deal. But in general using the cube quicker is better.
If you are concerned about botulism there are a few steps you could employ, most are just common sense.
► Pre-acidify the wort to about 4.5 (using phosphoric or lactic acid). This slight ph drop can inhibit microbial growth, although it *could* wind up making a slightly tart beer.
►Always cube your wort promptly after the boil has ended.
►Cube your wort indoors or in a garage if possible, away from drafty areas (botulinum bacteria are commonly found in soil, so perhaps don’t go brew a beer in the garden straight after you have composted your veggie patch).
►Botulism causing bacteria are said to sometimes emit putrid smelling odours and gas, so if your cube has swelled or smells or looks bad -chuck it. The bacteria can also cause liquids to take on a pinkish colour, so if your wort comes out of the cube pink -chuck it.
While botulism has become a running joke on some Australian forums it is a serious illness and steps should be avoided to prevent it. The last thing the home brewing world needs is a fatal case of food poisoning attributed to no chill cubing. Follow best practise as well as you can and you will be fine.
Chris Colby wrote a thoughtful article on it here:
beerandwinejournal.com/botulism/
Worth a read.
Grain and Grape Melbourne thanks for the speedy reply, and the in depth info. I wasn’t too worried, but being newish to the process it did have me second guessing. Thanks again
@@nathdorahy3064 All good Nath. Happy brewing!
Home Brewer for 10 years now, 1st time see this video, its bloody excellent.
Great Video thanks Ben!
If you're off target with your volume and there will be some headspace in the cube, how critical would that be for fermentation?
Interesting...great video. Have you run a comparision with same brew but using wort chiller?
Hi Kenneth, good question.
Anecdotally speaking, no chill beers do taste different to "quick" chilled beers. However, this doesn't make no chill better or worse than quick chilling. It is just different. (If done correctly you shouldn't experience any off flavours or defects, let's put it that way).
We have not done any side by side experiments at the shop but plenty of other home brewers have. You will find lots of their stories across all the brewing forums out there, and Brulosophy did their own experiment on it a few years back which could give you an overview of what to expect:
brulosophy.com/2015/11/09/cooling-the-wort-pt-1-no-chill-vs-quick-chill-exbeeriment-results/
Spoiler alert, preferences for the Chilled Vs No Chilled beers in that experiment were pretty much split right down the middle.
Can you put the cube in the fridge to speed things up? If so, are there any issues with that?
Hey there @rattlewar101, it's a common question but in short, we would't recommend you do that. On the one hand the no chill method is great for both its simplicity and the effort it saves immediately after the boil. The down side is the excruciating wait as between the time it takes for the cube to cool and pitching your yeast, so we understand the desire to want to speed things up.
But the other important aspect of the no chill method is ensuring proper pasteurisation of the wort. In theory, this process happens quite quickly once transferred to the cube but it's best to err on the side of caution and leave the cube as hot as possible for as long as possible. This means letting the cube cool naturally for a number of hours -even overnight and pitching your yeast the next day. People do use all kinds of tricks to chill their cubes quicker (I've even read of one guy who puts his hot cubes straight in his swimming pool) -but do so at your own risk. We can't condone any methods that fall outside the proven safe method for no chilling.
What if you place the cubes inside a freezer or refrigerator?
or, what if you leave the beer inside the mash pot?.
Yes technically you can do both these things but there can be drawbacks. Mainly that the heat of the cube will put a lot of stress on your fridge or freezer. We actually have some videos in the works addressing exactly these questions so stay tuned!
Hi Ben great tip i will try this on my next brew, how do you deal with the exxtra bitterness?
Another great vid! Cheers
Can I use a 20L Speidel Fermenter to do this. I have a 30L and a 20L and I brew typically 5 gallon batches. I ferment in the 30 and then move to the 20 for secondary. Can I use either one to do the No Chill Method or should I just try it to the 20L to limit the air. Thanks for the tips but this is cool idea.
Hi Mallard, glad you found the video useful. It might be possible to use your 20L Speidel fermenter to no chill, providing you can find a way to make it air tight -but I wouldn't recommend it. One of the problems you may encounter is, as the wort cools and contracts it will draw in oxygen which is not good for hot wort, plus you will be potentially introducing contaminants.
Another problem is that over time, the continual use of adding boiling wort to the fermenter will degrade and warp the plastic. Not something you want to do to your fine Speidel fermenter.
I would highly recommend using a cube if you can get one, the Speidel fermenter could work as a last resort if you are really stuck but do so at your own risk.
Thanks!! This is a great alternative!! For a 1 gal batch I absolutely need a 4L bottle right? And, can I use my autosiphon? I have a kitchen cauldron to brew :O
Hi Pedro, yeah you want to find the closest bottle size to your batch. So a 4L bottle will be perfect for 1 gal. If the bottle is too big that is ok, just do your best to squeeze as much air out as possible after it is full.
I would be weary of using an autosiphon as they are usually made out of plastic The plastic ones will definitely melt when you run boiling wort through them and you don't want that. Better to use a stainless steel racking cane and silicon tubing -or use a funnel and gently pour the wort in as a last resort.
I'm looking to getting into brewing under pressure. I didn't want to have to go and buy half a dozen kegs straight up so I was wondering if I can store my fermented brews in one of these drums?
Hi Joshua, these cubes are not pressure rated so we wouldn't recommend you do that (fermenting under pressure in the wrong vessel can not only get messy but is potentially dangerous).
However the good news is you don't have to use kegs. Something like a "uni-tank" may be your best value option: www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/search/7FERMENTER%20KING%20JUNIOR%2020--fermenter-king-junior-20l-pressure-fermenter
It all depends on what your end goal is. It sounds like you are looking for a way to store fermented beer in bulk? If that is the case, buying multiple kegs or unit-tanks is your only option.
Or if you are just wanting to _ferment_ under pressure, one uni tank will do -then just transfer your beer to bottles for storage the way you normally would.
@@grain_and_grape Yeah pretty much looking for a cheaper method to store the fermented beer. The uni tanks are definitely a cheaper option to a keg.
What if you stored the fermented beer at low pressure in the cubes & then transferred it into a keg to pressurise & carbonate for drinking?
@@fifis101 You could try it that way but the results will be unpredictable and we wouldn't recommend it. In general you don't want to be storing fermented beer for extended periods of time anyway -unless you are ageing it on purpose.
Consider trying a different approach. Instead of looking for ways to store fermented beer that isn't being consumed, just no chill your brews. Store them cubed and unfermented. They will last for months this way and when you are ready, ferment and keg as needed. Much less potential issues that way.
If you heart is set on storing fermented beer, consider buying kegs or uni-tanks one by one over a period of time.
Will this not explod when the hot gas will expand
Hi Jonas, I think I see where you are coming from, but there really is no risk of that happening.
I think you are referring to what happens if you fill a bottle half way with hot liquid, close the opening and then shake. The hot water wants to suddenly evaporate, but the steam has nowhere to go and creates pressure -if you open the lid before it’s had time to cool, you wind up with a volcano of hot water spraying everywhere!
Anyone who has tried to clean a bottle with hot water over the kitchen sink may have experienced this. It is not fun!
Care should be taken to ensure that the cube is filled to the brim with wort. So the cube being filled with liquid leaves no room for any hot “gas” to expand. A small air pocket poses no issue. HDPE plastic is strong and has a reasonable amount of give, and the threads on the caps are quite thick. They are able to hold quite a high PSI before rupture. Plastic bottles for example can hold 150 PSI, or even more. Much higher than glass.
I suppose a significant air pocket, or say, only filling the cube half full might be a problem. And even then you would have to go out of your way to shake the cube to speed up the reaction. But there are so many reasons why this should be avoided -potential explosions are way down the list.
Common sense and caution should always be used when handling hot liquids.
Take care out there and happy brewing!
No chill in a corney keg?
I have seen this mentioned many times in homebrew discussion forums. Brewers absolutely have used corney kegs for the chilling. A lot of them pitch the yeast after and do the fermenting in the keg as well.. (they usually shorten the dip tube to miss the trub when drawing out afterwards) If the container is sturdy, air tight, and can deal with the temps safely, any container can be used.
What’s up with the hair bro? 😂
Your hair
Breathtaking isn't it!