Annapurna South Face · The Hardest Way Up
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
- The First Ascent of the South Face of Annapurna was deemed Impossible.
However Triumph leads to unexpected Tragedy, a common theme in the Himalayas, but never told more poignantly as in the classic film
Climbing the South Face of Annapurna was a breakthrough in Himalayan mountaineering- both technically and psychologically. Chris Bonington assembled the best of British mountaineering and American Tom Frost for the attempt. The documentary is punctuated by wry observation, understatement and cutting humor from a by-gone age when the game of taking huge risks was matched by a determination not to take it too seriously. .
Best Climbing Film -- Trento Mountain Film Festival
Featuring: Chris Bonington, Martin Boysen, Mike Burke, Ian Clough, Nick Escourt, Tom Frost, Dougal Haston, Mike Thompson, Don Whillans
©Fremantle Television Production Company
Released: 1971
Anyone else, hooked in with these Mointain videos!
look up fairy meadows - nanga parbat...
Yesss ✌😎✌
I've climbing out of mountain rabbit hole for months now and with no sign of the end insight 😁
descening the Ridge of Mt Everest,May 23 2019.....gives me the heebie Jeebies. Armchair mountaineer here......
Utterly entranced now
He smoked two ciggies at above 6500 meters just after coming down from the summit. Legend!!!
I would do that. More than likely I would stop for a few smoko breaks on the way up to.
Wonder where he put the cigarette
That's why they get up iron lungs respect
Watch the movie Meru.
@@ohsweetmysteryUnwanted comment!! Reported! 👿
In 1977 I went with a Ramblers club trek to Annapurna base camp as the group's doctor. One of the most rewarding things I've ever done - later other treks allowed you to do the Annapurna circuit and so many good people will have had an even more dramatic time, I'm sure. It's all too easy to not think of those things one has done, until you see or hear something that brings that all back to you. So first, thank you for the warm reminiscences of companionship and achievement. But thanks also for this film with its old-fashioned British understatement and quiet accomplishment - no hyperbole, no dramatic music, no breathless commentary. I had forgotten that the expedition ended in such tragedy. But it's worth reading the entry in Wikipedia about this expedition - there was quite a lot more going on physically and emotionally during the expedition than the film had time or need to cover - this understatement actually glosses over quite a lot. Standing in the Sanctuary and gazing up at that mountainous wall, it was nigh impossible to conceive that anyone had actually climbed to the top that way. This film shows how it was done, but nothing can truly bring home the almost superhuman effort that every minute of every hour of every day required of the climbers, and their supporting Sherpas. It all seems such a long time ago and I am approaching the end of my life in such a different world, and such a different way of thinking and doing. Do all old people live to die in an alien landscape?
Certainly seems that way John,great words by the way.
Some do, John.
I don’t think so, not everyone. But certainly everyone born within the last 50-80 years. We have seen the greatest rate of change than any other people yet alive. But also, it seems the more things change, the more they stay the same somehow. It’s a funny old world
Yes, so true, the things we cherished can hardly be recalled. Our words fall on uncomprehending ears and blank faces, makes the passage easier,
How did you feel about how the porters and sherpa were treated. Do you think its is ethical to have them walk in sandals, risking their life for 10-20 bucks?
I've stood by the base of that mountain and looked up that massive wall. One of the most impressive sights one could ever see. I heard the avalanches come crashing down the mountains during night at base camp.
Life changing I bet !!
Bucket list territory! I am hoping to go to the Himalayas/Karakorum in a couple of years, I won't be climbing the peaks due to physical restraints, but just to see them in person will be wondrous.
@@timwilson2435 Trust me, you don't need to climb the peaks to be awestruck by their beauty and sheer height. If you chose to visit the Annapurnas you can either do the circuit or the sanctuary trek. Or both 😊 There are alternatives too. The sanctuary trek has amazing views of this impressive mountain range, you are completely surrounded by massive peaks and have that immense wall ahead of you where famous climbs have been made.
@@JustBrowsing777 I am awestruck by them on a TV screen, so f**k knows what It will be like in person!
The history, geology and sheer majesty of this region has gripped me for decades, and it will be fulfilling a dream to just see one of the 8000m peaks for myself.
@@timwilson2435 Very cool. I love your attitude. Wish I had done this when I was still able. Best wishes for a fulfilling journey.
The sheer gumption required for someone to record this in 1971!
100% - that gear would be very bulky. And on reels of film!
“I approach the mountain much as a blacksmith would…!” Gotta love Don Willans.
👍 ❤️
The summit team finish the climb with beer and smokes. What a classic. Edit. Jeez, what a kicker at the end. Brilliant video. The effort that went into making this would have been huge in 1970. Five stars.
WHAT EFFORT? THEY HAD OVER 400 FREAKIN SHERPAS. THATS A SMALL ARMY.
@@meesalikeuGuess you didn't watch the whole thing or you wouldn't have chosen such an ignorant comment
What an incredible effort with a terribly sad ending.
Annapurna south face must be the most technically difficult climb of any 8,000m+ mountain.
The filming must have been very challenging especially with the available technology fifty years ago.
I very much appreciate the British style of documentary; understated without dramatics. Well done.
nanga parbat Rupal Face
Appreciate your comment giving the end. 🤦♂️
British without dramatics????when and where
There's always a harder climb.
Most people (all?) commenting here would be pressed to actually walk the Anapurna Circuit
Climb the mountain?????
These guys are chainsmoking at like 24-25,000 feet without oxygen lmao
"I survived for two days on cigarettes and melted snow water" bruh
Amazing documentary of a bygone era of legends
The matter of fact way these seemingly "ordinary" men talk is in such contrast to how the slightest achievement on TikTok is wildly celebrated nowadays.
I know I sound like an old fogey, but it is a refreshing change.
I don’t why would you even bring that up, what you said is factual and bluntly obvious, we live at different times now…
@@samk7717 I brought it up, because I wanted to. And if bluntly obvious remarks were removed from social media, then the servers would only need a small water wheel to power them.
I was also taken back to a time in my childhood where understatement of epic achievement was commonplace, and comparing it to the histrionics, high fiving and chest bumping of somebody that throws a basketball in a hoop while wearing a blindfold.
If you feel the need to respond to another of my blindingly obvious replies, feel free. I've got plenty of time on my hands today.
@@protapanzer8752 I don't find today's culture irksome, and I enjoy many of the daft things on TH-cam etc, I just admire the understated manner of these fantastic blokes.
Much the same with sporting celebrations, where a handshake and pat on the back has become a whirling frenzy of shirts off, coordinated shenanigans.
@@timwilson2435 Well said, about time a few comparisons were made. Nothing wrong with that.
@@StonerGBUK Thanks. I honestly have no objections to the way things are celebrated nowadays, social media has amplified everything to a peak of frenzy, but I do admire the reserved manner these fellas.
And f**k me, the south face of Annapurna is a monster of an achievement!!!
Dude had snow water and cigars for two days up at altitude at camp 6 lol! What a badazz!
"The lungs aren't strong enough to be in this position ..." yet I think I'll have a few smokes during rest stops. Brilliant.
Right? lol. And strong whiskey doesn't freeze either at that altitude. Gotta have a drink in between puffs lol. These guys were crazy
I don’t usually smoke climbing but when off the mountain I’ll have a couple and gimme a beer please
Interviewer: ‘is there any jockeying to be in the summit team?’
Whillans: ‘the mountain’s beginning to show its teeth. If there’s any jockeying it’s for a bed down at base camp’ 😂
These days laying rope is done by Sherpas and others with a physiology adapted to high altitudes.
Thumbs up to these guys who did it themselves.
One of the best climbing docs ever.
46.24 - the chicken head to typewriter change of scene was splendid!
46:24
@@herbert9241 that's what I was trying to achieve!
21:48 for a hilarious question about "modern equipment" giving them the edge over the mountain. his answer is as true today as it was back then: "the equipment means absolutely nothing."
Like those guys who suck at basketball but wear all the gear like they're in the NBA or something
This made me chuckle too.
Don whillans is my favorite mountaineer, he passed away the year I graduated high school, 1985, he was a plumber and a really great climber , had a natural feel for the mountain
He was a hard, hard, hard dog. I didn't know him but I would have really loved the guy. I did get a chance to meet Chris Bonnington at a talk in Portland years ago.
@@silasmarner7586 wow, that's amazing, I would have really enjoyed that !! I'm envious of that
👍
Agreed.
I always love how they describe their real jobs in England like they're not absolutely legendary names of mountain climbing.
THANKS for sharing such a great piece of mountaineering history. I think these were the real heroes.
I read Chris Bonnington's book "Annapurna: South Face" years ago, when it first came out. Riveting read. This film shows just how hard the climb is. This shows what the weeks on the mountain actually took to achieve. Amazing.
My hat goes off to the cameraman and his dedication to the craft!
1970 - 53 years ago has to be one the finest mountaineering videos I’ve ever seen on TH-cam and I’ve watched them all these men are Iron Men from a bygone age no supplemental O2 and two months above 21k feet to climb up 1K feet ? I was going to say it’s a miracle no one was killed but that freak
accident such a waste. This will never happen again because the Himalayas are much warmer today and all the dangerous ice fields and glaciers are disappearing- we know why the climbers today are on easy street relatively speaking . 💯😢👑🌍
All climbers and mountaineering people are heroes. I look at their attire and wonder "aren't they cold?" I am mesmerized as I see these incredible humans with such fortitude and love for the mountains do what they love to do. My respects. Rest in Peace Ian Clough. The scene of the cross and in the background Mt. Annapurna so Heavenly.
its the perception of others that gets imposed on you.... You cant do this, You cant do that, No leave that, No that might harm you, No that is dangerous Etc. but real adventure begins where the perception of a certain outcome is unclear.
a guy climbed most of everest n shoes n shorts
Omg an Annapurna doc that I’ve never seen! And it was just uploaded 1 hour ago. Lucky me ☺️
How could you have not seen this before? Numerous other people have posted this very same videos and it's been on TH-cam for years. You just type Annapurna up in the search button and it's one of the first videos to come up.
Omg... my first time seeing Melissa Jean lucky me
@@brandonsavitski wow, I never thought of that! I just type “Annapurna” in the search? Geez what a genius idea. In my 35 years of life, I never new how a search bar worked. What a swell guy.
@@mellgee No need to thank me by dear. Just doing my civic duty. :)
omg that guy who started smoking so he'd 'have something to do waiting for him to pass on' teammate of the year lmaaoooo
After he took the nuts out of his pack! Haha
While eyeing up his bag of nuts.😂
Wow, 50 years ago, thanks for uploading this great piece of history! Annapurna looks so much harder climb than Everest. I honestly don't know how they dragged their steel balls up there
Annapurna north face is not technically difficult but is extremely dangerous.
Annapurna south face on the other hand, is not only dangerous but is technically a very difficult climb and incredibly steep.
They were such humble and soft spoken Men, but what they did was so brave and stoic. "Hold my Lemonade"
thank you for posting this - and the other classic mountaineering films. In the middle of the tragedy, i still get a smile from the "there was one chicken left for dinner"!
😂 That chook was doomed , I hope they remembered to bring the paxo
I remember when he used to be on TV most Sundays climbing when I was at school and I'm 72 now ,He was the man in them days
Huge Wow! Back in the days of real adventure.
In the first ascent they hiked most of the way from Calcutta. Then it took them six weeks to find a route to the mountain.
That mountain massif is outstanding from any angle! Although I always felt I could never grasp the enormity even when hiking right around it.
So you have been to the mountains out there before? I would love to hike them.
@@NASkeywest Oh that mountain face is something to behold. When you look at it, you immediately think there must be a better way to approach it from behind or the side .. only lunatics would try to get to the top from the front
I had been upto the base camp inside the sanctuary. One of the sights to see before you die. The great wall rises 4 kms in one big swoop towering and filling out the horizon and sky, a gigantic vertical edifice of ice, snow and rock glistening in the morning sun with plumes of snow drifting from its summit. All around in the valley are 7000+ giants, closing in on that sanctuary over us tiny humans. One cannot even imagine how these great mountaineers can climb that sheer face with avalanches rushing down all the time.
This is so alien to me, watching these brave women and men do this. I may be the biggest fan of mountaineers and alpinism that doesn't do any of it. David does the best job of posting some really historic things on the subject. I pray every night for these people who truly defy nature and the planets natural defenses.
i can't say that i am a fan of mountaineers but i watch these videos with awe. i think these climbers must be at least a little bonkers to do what they are doing. just like deep divers, wing suiters and others testing the absolute limits of life and death.
8:30 the cameraman is the GOAT
I love these old documentaries so much. Puts me in a different place in my mind where part of me fantasizes about attempting a tough climb and the other part of me chastises the ridiculous thoughts while I look back on the crazy hikes I’ve done when I was young and resign to the pleasure of those memories to be satisfied. At 52 , my extreme adventures are in the past. All my best to all adventure seekers 🛐💪🙌🤗
Hatsoff to the camera crew, who did it like it's you who is climbing, great work dude
I think the cameraman on this was the great Hamish McInnis, cameraman and mountain rescue Pioneer Hamish is still alive and still climbing in Scotland
Love classic mountaineering docs like this. Thank you for sharing!
“While the climbers were finding the route and fixing the rope, the load carriers followed.” Boy has times changed! Now the load carriers are carrying the load while finding the route and fixing the ropes “while the climbers follow.”
it was the same back then too, but you can't have the glory if you say you were handed the summit by porters and Sherpas
@@LudwigVaanArthansyou are talking rubbish
@@williamcobbett4943were you handed the summit?
@@cwestover5706 I was handed your mum's summit
@@williamcobbett4943 I guess when you're weak in communication skills...A " Mom " insult, is the best you can do eh ?
My All Time Favorite Mountaineering Documentary!!
I am only halfway thru this and need a break. i am scared to death for these amazing men. why do you climb? "cause I enjoy bein in the mountains" !!!!! wow, superb understatement.
This is a classic that I have seen before, but the video quality here is better. Anna is one heck of a mountain, several very challenging areas and ridges that seem to go on forever. As always, people did die on this expedition. God bless them and their families.
Much tougher back then. No gloves. Thin looking suits. No tanks, no face masks. Diet of beer, whiskey, nuts, cigarettes…. And smashed out this kind of expedition.
All doing so with team spirit and a great sense of as long as one of the team makes it that’s what matters.
Amazing!
Rest in peace Ian Clough.
Watched this for the third time. Appreciate the team effort. Loved the statement of “all that matters is your team scores a goal not who scores the goal”. Such sacrifice by so many guys so that two could summit. RIP Ian Clough.
There is such a huge difference in the older versus the new docs on these climbs. The newer climbers are so annoying with their feelings and their over compensation of their accomplishments. The newer from 2018 on are hard to watch. This one is great.
I am Nepali and always dreamt of just going to it's base camp.
Pretty!
Go!
I came from India this april. Everything sorted and I was ready for 12 days annapurna base camp trek and at the last moment due to covid it get cancelled. Further, mountain flight for everest and all was also cancelled. Will come back again soon mountains are love.
Great! Just don't elevate your mountaineering goals any higher than that! 😎
Climbers are fascinating people 🏔👀
Think about how large and heavy the video cameras were when some of these older mountain videos were made.
Climbing the most dangerous mountain in the world on a sheer route that goes 3000m straight up.
Northern/Scottish grit right there.
what admiration I have for these men - especially back in that day, they are like the pioneers, explorers, cowboys of 150 - 200 yrs ago blazing the trail with their
courage and rugged individualism (along with help from the Sherpas) to inspire others to follow their climbing dreams
I'll take the intellectual and practical challenges of fishing over climbing all day long. :)
Climb Annapurna and then head to base camp for a tab and a beer.
A beer and a cigar, as my son and I have always done. :)
Beautiful film, thank you.
The summits the prize you claim if you make it up there. You only get to keep it if you make it down.
31.50 He just stood there smoking waiting for him to pass. Wow they were proper hardcore while most can barely breathe that high they're smoking hahah love it
the polish used to say the stress from the smoke forced them to acclimatize quicker and more effectively. they would smoke up to 8000 meters. lol
@@NickShelson that is just insane :D
I have heard lots of histories related to cigarretes and smoking. I mean there is absolutely no doubt smoking its bad but also there is a short timed stimulus that nicotine gives to the body. Something similar to caffeine that helps more than it harms. Especially in that horrible weather conditions.
@@alemalvina7624 Then their is the Italian mountain village where almost 100% smoke and drink coffee all day and the average age is in the nineties from memory. They grow it organically though. I don't believe anything I am told. I just do what I reckon is right for me. Who cares, we are all dead in this physical realm anyway.
I recall reading Annapurna (Maurice Herzog) years ago and thought it read like a Jules Verne novel.
Yes. The hard way, and doing all the work themsleves. This is mounternering at it's core, for the respect of the mountain, the struggle, accivement and dedication, working together and enjoying the summit, regardless of who reached the top. Team effort, and everyone knew it. Not like today where me, myself and I comes first....!
Scottish strength. I dream of things that I am too old for now!
Still one of my fave docs…….so many great climbers from the seventies and eighties,sadly died on future climbs…..RIP to all
Which ones?
@@Halfdead211 Can you not use Google?
@@Halfdead211 There is a great book about this crew called 'The Boys of Everest.' There's a lot of death including multiple people in this video.
@@mikefur3957 thanks
Can you begin to imagine the awesome feat achieved by Ueli Steck Oct 2013 ? He climbed the 8000 ft South ice face of Annupurna on his own, free climbing in less than 20hrs !
First attempt: "we need 5 tons of food and equipment."
Later attempt: "I have energy bars."
Which route did he take on the south face the British route ? the Japanese route ? Or the French route ?the French accent route sits between the two which is consider the toughest route as it is avalanche prone rock and ice falls both french climbers who attempted the climb were never seen again
I can't imagine, won't, refuse to try and imagine...... it's beyond me, it's hard enough to climb out of bed in the morning, watching these videos makes me grateful that I will never have to do these things because somebody else is doing it.
Bonington didn't actually climb Everest either until much much later.
*8000m
No oxygen spent two days on snow water n cigars just under final push ... They don't make em like that anymore..
The Sherpa do the real work.
They went only to camp 4 on this climb. Above that the expedition climbers did all the work.
@@lesflynn4455 Everybody that makes comments like that havent stepped foot on a glacier so no real point in answering them tbh.
Fantastic video, all these people are kings 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Breathtakingly belittling beautiful....truly magnificent
So these guys went to untouched territory,climbed the other and dangerous side of Annapurna,sits on the summit and comes back in a day without oxygen ,,
Even death be like ,fuk this im out
Mountain climb carrying all of your own stuff and I’m impressed. The fact that most have other people carrying a bunch of their supplies doesn’t feel like a true success
This was done when the knowledge and equipment were not available for that, these were pioneers that forged a path for others to follow.
These beasts are not like an Alpine peak or something in the Rocky mountains!
They had to be conquered, like a walled city being laid siege to, and required logistics that could not be fathomed in todays digital world.
The feats of the late great Ueli Steck are indeed amazing, but these trailblazers were doing this when the rest of us were marvelling at colour TV.
It could never be accomplished.
People carrying your stuff, oxygen tanks, Sherpa doing everything. Almost feels like cheating.
You realise what you're saying is like saying "walk on the moon without a helmet and I'll be impressed".
sherpas carrying tonnes of load to the basecamp, all barefoot, small towel wrapped around the bottoms, in the icy cold. Incredible!
This is how climbing should be done, only using local carriers and Sherpas for backup and logistics, not rope fixing, line clearance, and pulling you up the mountain ❤️
Did you miss the entire half of the video where they fixed ropes and used jumars/ascenders to pull themselves up....
It's the exact same thing except for the climbers who ran lead and fixed those ropes.
Aid climbing is just that, climbing through the use of aids
AHAHAHAHAHA RIIIIIGHT
Well yes because this was before commercialised climbing. A lot of climbers feel that has ruined climbing, but then again if you love climbing and can make a living from it, great. Its just that i think its at the point where many who shouldn't be allowed climbing visas are granted...
But still they should be named, respected and better paid.
Na climbing should be done alpine style the purest form.
There was nothing coming up so we went for the summit...................wow 😮 ❤
Ian Clough greatest out of Bradford and topo of the Ben/ Ben Nevis back in the day.
How has nobody mentioned the fact that the locals were not wearing shoes while trekking thru the snow?
Ian’s daughter went to my school, what a terrible thing this happening so close to getting home.
Mountaineering at it finest
Whillans 'well I had 2 days on cigars and snow water'.... at 8000m... hard hard man Don Whillans
The sound of Bonington’s voice cracking at the service for Clough was very poignant
I'm surprised Red Bull hasn't organized a snowmobile ride to the top of Everest yet.
Why are documentaries from the 70s and 80s just better than the modern ones? Everything from the look of the film to the narration to the style it's filmed in. It feels like a documentary. Today's crystal clear HD or 4k helmet mounted cam in 1st person view takes something away from the style of documentary film making.
Amazing is all I can say..
I can’t believe they’re not wearing gloves half the time!
Don is a legend living on cigarettes and cigars and snow water at camp 6 wow
Watch out Mountain it's another plumber from Lancashire
Cigars and snow water. Thats the secret folks! Seriously though. Great documentary.
R.I.P. Ian.
I can see why Sherpas become superstitious. Just as they released news that they had the mountain conquered, it took their friend .
That gear is so primitive compared to today. Those men were bold.
Started climbing in 1979 , pins, nuts & bad ice screws...also heavy in weight, clothing and ropes, very different than 2024.😬🥶
Yes I am hooked. What very brave people amazing
Thanks for sharing!
Puffin away on cigarettes at 20,000 ft......ahhh the past.
This makes an Everest ascent look like a picnic. Not that I've done it, just saying.
One of the gnarliest things I've ever seen
Bonington is an amazing man, just read his autobiography. I'd also recommend The Boys of Everest. By Clint Willis which is a superb story of 'Bonington's Boys' the group of climbers he brought together and occasionally led in the 1970s and 80s. An awful lot of them died in the mountains. It's a superb book.
A number of the climbers in this video died the mountains eventually. I remember many different names from the number of books I’ve read. This was a heck of a team.
I've read the book several times - this is an awesome achievement. The only activity I can match this team for is nut pinching - I've done it myself. There was a reason - i drastically lost weight on a two week trek and ran out energy however I was ashamed of myself. So I'll shout you lunch sometime Michael . Really sad you also lost Mick Burke later on at Everest. We used to smoke - but not any more................................
"I just stood there smoking waiting for him to die". Those blokes are brilliant
Boington didn't actually climb Annapurna South face but Don Whillans (Gold Standard) and Dougel Haston did!
Bonington didn't actually climb Annapurna South face.
It was his expedition just like the south west face of everest
So what is your point?
Another fantastic watch. Thank you !!!!
I like how this video gets into the logistics of making this happen… tons and tons of food and supplies moved up to the camps sounds like incredibly awful work. Hell, just getting it to the base sounds miserable.
I think some of the "climb it without sherpas and porters or it doesn't count" youtube commenters need to realise what it takes to climb a mountain.
It takes a lot of people setting lines and making incremental accents and a lot of time. You can't just bang this out with the food in your backpack for a day and a half.
Conquering a 10k ft ice and rock wall... while smoking. Kind of a strange disconnect IMO. The sturgeon general warns that tobacco can kill you... but so can unintentionally walking off a 5k ft cliff as you aimlessly search your pockets for matches dry enough to light your stogie.
Smokers on the mountain, as a former heavy smoker, I can't fathom that.
RIP Ian